From the Sector

A new promotional initiative aims to boost trade relations between Italy and India in the textile sector. 11 Italian textile machinery manufacturers will be taking part in the forthcoming technological symposia scheduled in New Delhi and Mumbai from 9 to 12 April. The two events, organized by the Italian Trade Agency and supported by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, will allow Italian companies to showcase their technologies to a selected audience of Indian textile entrepreneurs.

The textile sector is of great significance in the Indian economy, contributing more than 2% of the GDP and allowing the Country to be among the largest exporter of textile and apparel items. Moreover India represents the third largest foreign market for the Italian textile machinery industry.

In 2022 India imported Italian textile machinery for a total value of about 200 million euro. Referring to the first 9 months of 2023, the value shows a slight decrease compared to the value for the same period of the previous year, but the forecast for the current year remains positive.

Italian companies participating in the symposia, all of which are ACIMIT members, are: Autefa, Cubotex, Danitech, Lafer, Mcs, Monti-Mac, Reggiani Macchine, Salvadè, Savio, Sicam, Testa.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has collaborated with PDS Ventures to launch a new Trailblazer Programme. The new initiative seeks to identify early-stage innovators and support them on their journey to scale.

As part of the Trailblazer Programme, PDS Ventures will award one innovator a significant investment of up to USD 200,000* to accelerate the company’s growth and positive impact in the fashion industry. The winner will also receive commercial and operational support from PDS Group’s Positive Materials - a textile company and strategic research partner supporting the development and acceleration of low impact textile innovation through collaboration between early-stage start-ups, supply chain partners and brands. Further scaling opportunities will be gained through access to PDS Limited’s extensive global supply chain.
 
GFA and PDS Ventures are presenting an open call for solution providers addressing different challenges across the fashion value chain to apply for the programme. Applicants will be reviewed and shortlisted by an esteemed Jury including representatives from GFA, PDS Ventures, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Ralph Lauren Corporation, Fashion For Good and H&M Group. Eight shortlisted innovations will be enrolled in a group of Trailblazers, receiving feedback and investment pitch training from industry experts and PDS representatives.     
 
Each shortlisted innovator will then pitch for a potential investment, with the winning Trailblazer being revealed at GFA’s Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2024 - an international forum for sustainability in fashion, on 22-23 May at the Copenhagen Concert Hall. All shortlisted Trailblazers will also have the opportunity to showcase their businesses within an exhibit at the Summit to connect with other key industry stakeholders and potential investors.
 
The Trailblazer Programme corresponds with the theme of the upcoming Global Fashion Summit - ‘Unlocking The Next Level’. Inspired by a significant milestone, 2024 marks 15 years since the inaugural Global Fashion Summit was hosted in 2009. This pivotal anniversary offers a special moment to not only take stock of the evolution of the sector and the progress made so far, but, most importantly, look ahead at what actions must urgently be implemented in the near term, and the gaps that must be filled to accelerate industry transformation.

SGL Carbon SE is currently evaluating various strategic options for the Business Unit Carbon Fibers (CF). These include a possible partial or complete divestment of the Business Unit. In a first step, potential interested parties shall be approached with the general data of the Business Unit to determine their interest in an acquisition. If there is sufficient interest, a structured transaction process will be carried out in a second step. Overall, a share of sales amounting to around € 179.6 million after nine months in 2023 (9M 2022: € 269.0 million) is therefore under review. The CF sales share corresponded to 21.9% of SGL Carbon's consolidated sales after nine months in 2023 (9M 2022: 31.5%). Adjusted EBITDA of the Business Unit excluding the result from joint ventures amounted to minus € 10,9 million after nine months in 2023 (9M 2022: € 27,9 million). Despite the operating loss of CF after nine months in 2023, SGL Carbon maintains its guidance for fiscal year 2023. This shows the positive development of the three other business units and the resilience of SGL Carbon's business model.

Carbon Fibers manufactures textile, acrylic and carbon fibers as well as composite materials at seven locations in Europe and North America. Following the temporary drop in demand for carbon fibers from the important wind industry market, the Business Unit's sales and earnings fell significantly in the course of fiscal year 2023. Due to the importance of the wind industry for the European Green Deal, SGL Carbon and many experts assumed that the wind industry recovers quickly. Unfortunately, this is currently not the case. Even if demand picks up, the company assumes that Carbon Fibers will need additional resources to remain competitive in the international market environment and to exploit market opportunities in the best possible way. Against this background, SGL Carbon is reviewing all possibilities to support a positive further development of the Carbon Fibers Business Unit.

Messe Frankfurt will extend its footprint in the Central Asian market by establishing seven brand events in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. The country’s strategic location as a crossroads of Europe and Asia positions it as a promising trade gateway and transportation hub, facilitating the economic development of neighbouring countries and access to the wider region. The company’s stronger presence in the market will promote business opportunities and foster the sustainable development of pillar industries, including cosmetics, textiles and clothing, automotive, logistics and transportation.

Uzbekistan has a promising consumer market with significant potential. It is the largest in Central Asia and is expected to increase due to population growth, rising incomes and the modernisation of economic and industry sectors.
 
The nation has actively sought to diversify its economy in recent years, undertaking reforms for greater entrepreneurial freedom and opening up to more international and regional cooperation. The country already exports precious metals, textiles and agricultural produce. It imports machinery, equipment, means of transportation, and vehicle components from foreign trading partners. Attracting overseas investment is also apparent through incentives such as tax benefits, reduced import duties and simplified procedures for overseas investors.
 
In addition, shifting global supply chains and trading patterns could also drive opportunities in the region. The nation benefits from its geographical location owing to its position between Asia and Europe, to which the Uzbek Government recognises the prospects of investing in infrastructure, such as transportation and logistics, to create an efficient transit hub. Against this backdrop, China acknowledges the importance of developing routes along the Belt and Road while Europe has expressed a readiness to support Uzbekistan’s efforts to diversify transport corridors.

Line-up of shows include:

• Automechanika Tashkent; Futuroad Expo Tashkent; and, Scalex Tashkent: 23 – 25 October 2024
• Heimtextil Uzbekistan; Texworld Tashkent; and, Apparel Sourcing Tashkent: 6 – 8 November 2024
• Beautyworld Central Asia: 21 – 23 November 2024

Solvay awarded a scholarship to facilitate an educational alliance between the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) and Fermi High School in Cecina. The initiative unfolded during an event held at Solvay's Rosignano site in Italy, providing a platform for students and faculty. Through this partnership, 200 Fermi High School students participated in STEM* and digital lessons from MIT's Global Teaching Labs project, emphasizing the teaching of scientific disciplines by the American university.

Beyond the scholarship award ceremony, students received a tour of Solvay's factory in Rosignano. The tour highlighted the company's dedication to safety, sustainability, and bridging the gap between academia and industry challenges. The experience illustrated the practical application of academic studies in an industrial context, showcasing Solvay's advanced control procedures, safety protocols, technological innovations, digital transformation efforts, and sustainability measures.

Discussions during the event included key sustainability topics such as water conservation, energy efficiency, waste management, and Solvay's commitment to promoting a balanced work-life culture and diversity within the workplace.

This collaboration aligns with Solvay's global Corporate Citizenship program. Through this program, Solvay supports individuals and communities, channeling efforts to tackle worldwide societal challenges through strategic investments in education, sustainability, and local community initiatives.

*STEM stands for science, technology, engineering and mathematics

From 11 to 14 January 2024, the global carpet and flooring industry will meet at the Hannover exhibition grounds to discuss new products and current industry trends. With 1,000 international exhibitors, DOMOTEX promises a comprehensive overview of the Flooring und Carpets & Rugs sectors.

In addition to top exhibitors from the Carpets & Rugs sector, numerous global brands from the flooring industry will be exhibiting.
Well-known and long-standing exhibitors such as Area Floors, Amorim, Lamett, Li & Co, Camsan, Design Parquet, CFL Flooring, AGT, Forestry Timber, STP, SWISS KRONO, Decospan, Massive Holding, Floorify and Granorte have confirmed their participation. However, new exhibitors or those who have not participated for several years are also back in 2024 – including Kronospan and Kaindl, mFlor, Onefloor, Republic, Classen, Gerflor and MeisterWerke. From the field of application and installation technology, Neuhofer, SELIT, Välinge, Estillon, Shaper Origin, ADESIV, KLEIBERIT and i4F have also announced their participation.

In addition to the main exhibition, DOMOTEX will offer a variety of side events designed to provide important impulses for the day-to-day business of all trade visitors

THE GREEN COLLECTION
For the second time, THE GREEN COLLECTION in Hall 23 will highlight the latest developments in the fields of sustainability, circular economy and environmental protection in the carpet and flooring industry for visitors to experience first-hand. The special display includes current research projects by TFI Aachen, a haptic material show by raumprobe and product presentations by companies such as Uzin Utz, Classen and Gerflor.

RETAILERS‘ PARK
In collaboration with DECOR-UNION and the MEGA Group, DOMOTEX will be expanding its portfolio to include the two product segments "wall" and "ceiling" for the first time. In addition to other flooring suppliers, the RETAILERS' PARK in Hall 19/20 will feature products for holistic interior design, including paints and coatings from Südwest, Meffert and PPG Coatings as well as wallpapers from AS and Erfurt. Participants can also look forward to practical solutions for their day-to-day business, presented in the area's own user forum through hands-on live demonstrations.

DOMOTEX on Stage
The conference program in Hall 23 features experts from the retail sector, associations, architecture, interior design, trade and politics, who will offer a holistic view of the topics of the future for the entire industry. On Friday, 12 January, German politician and member of the European Parliament Reinhard Bütikofer will give a presentation on the European Green Deal. Joachim Stumpp, Managing Director of raumprobe, and Chiara Rodriguez from Materially will report on sustainable materials. In addition to sustainability, topics relating to trends, new work and the shortage of skilled workers will also play a keyrole at DOMOTEX on Stage.

On December 7th and 8th, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) in partnership with Fashion for Good, facilitated the “Chemical Recycling Technologies: Manufacturing Markets Gateway”, in Bangladesh. Fashion for Good, the Amsterdam based global platform for innovation, along with two disruptive technology start-ups focused on textile-to-textile chemical recycling, Circ and Infinited Fiber Company, were the key stakeholders in this initiative.

The two-day visit leveraged Bangladesh's status as a major garment production hub, exploring the potential of chemical recycling technologies to enhance environmental sustainability. Emphasizing the importance of circularity, the event aimed to spread awareness about current disruptive innovations that could transform the industry's approach to waste and resource management, setting an example for future sustainable practices. It focuses on integrating these technologies within the local manufacturing landscape, securing feedstock partnerships, and developing a value chain for recycled apparel materials.

Denim Asia Limited, Knit Asia Limited, Progress Apparels Limited, Ananta BD, Reverse Resources, and the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) played pivotal roles in this initiative. Knit Asia Ltd, notably acclaimed for their commitment to sustainable practices, along with Denim Asia, associated with the sustainable brand Noize Jeans, showcased their commitment to sustainable manufacturing processes.
Progress Apparels Limited, a ready-made garment producer and part of PDS Limited demonstrated its advanced sustainable production facilities. Reverse Resources and the BGMEA hosted an intimate “Meet and Greet Networking Session”, to boost awareness about the technologies in the industry.

Mr. Mostafiz Uddin, Founder and CEO of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange, emphasized the significance of this event for the wider Bangladeshi textile industry, " Bangladesh has the biggest manufacturing sector in South Asia and this tour marks a critical step towards a circular fashion ecosystem, also how can the fashion industry become more sustainable in Bangladesh. It's not just an event; it's part of a larger movement to incorporate innovative recycling, Sustainable Fashion technologies and establish global partnerships for a sustainable fashion industry."

Featuring interactive sessions, factory visits, and knowledge sharing, this initiative offered a platform for fostering collaborations between manufacturers and technology innovators.

Bangladesh Apparel Exchange and Fashion for Good are optimistic about a future where Bangladesh leads in sustainable and circular apparel manufacturing.

In an initiative aimed at enhancing accessibility to certification for small operator groups within the organic textile value chain, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is pleased to introduce its ongoing Controlled Supply Chain Scheme Pilot Project. The project, launched in 2022, was strategically developed to overcome the obstacles that often deter small-scale operators from pursuing GOTS certification.

Recognising that administrative complexities and financial burdens can impede these operators, the controlled supply chain scheme (CSCS) system was developed to mitigate these challenges. The supply chain requires an internal control and audit system, and small-scale operations benefit from a streamlined ‘group’ certification process, which reduces costs and eases administrative barriers.

Under the CSCS framework, a supply chain comprised of a minimum of eight and a maximum of thirty small-scale facilities, each with twenty or fewer workers, could be considered a single Certified Entity after a comprehensive risk assessment by their Certification Body (CB). SANKEI MERIYASU, a Japanese textile manufacturer, recently received GOTS certification through this project. SANKEI MERIYASU's success showcases the tangible impact of the CSCS system in empowering small-scale operators.

With the pilot due to be reviewed and evaluated next year, GOTS Managing Director Rahul Bhajekar is optimistic about the future of CSCS systems within GOTS. "The controlled supply chain scheme has the potential for substantial impact, empowering small operators in the organic textile supply chain and revolutionising GOTS certification. Our pilot project is proving that the scheme works as intended, overcoming barriers and expanding opportunities. We look forward to refining and validating the CSCS requirements, in hopes of implementing it fully for all markets in the future.”

Trumpler has teamed up with Archroma to offer a leather production process that can be used to produce high-performance leather in a more eco-friendly and cost-efficient way.

The new process DyTan®combines offers an alternative to existing metal-free and chrome-tanned leather. It enables the reliable production of leather with great shavability, color depth and migration and abrasion resistance. Free from metal salts and reactive aldehydes, DyTan® is suitable for a wide range of leather applications, from garment and footwear to automotive and furniture upholstery, for today’s eco-conscious leather producers and consumers.

At the core of the DyTan® process is Archroma’s patented AVICUERO® System, which is based on novel molecules that enable more sustainable leather tanning and dyeing, developed by Archroma in cooperation with leather technology consultant Dr Leather. It enables collagen fibers in the leather to be covalently cross-linked through a simplified process at low temperatures. As a result, the system shows strong potential to save energy and water, while also reducing process time and CO₂ emissions by up to 23%.*

The DyTan® process combines the AVICUERO® System with Trumpler’s bio-based fatliquors and retanning agents based on functional biopolymers produced from hydrolyzed shavings – resource-saving technology that Trumpler has been refining for 15 years.

As a global partner of Archroma, the Trumpler Group is responsible for the distribution of the AVICUERO® System worldwide. Delivering technical support and first-class customer care, Trumpler will help leather manufacturers and brands to implement sustainable tanning and draw on its comprehensive product portfolio and process knowledge of tanning, retanning and fatliquoring processes.
 

* Estimations carried out with the Archroma ONE WAY Impact Calculator show energy savings of up to 25% and reduced process time leading to a reduction in CO₂ emissions of up to 23%, compared to traditional chrome tanning. They also show significant water savings compared to other metal-free tanning systems¹. With the ONE WAY Impact Calculator, customers will be offered personalized calculations for their specific processes.

¹ Trials made at Trumpler GmbH application lab.

Source Home & Gift continues to go from strength to strength with over 430 exhibitors expected to be at its third edition from 4th – 7th February 2024 at NEC Birmingham.

Uniting global manufacturers and artisan makers who all pride themselves on responsible manufacturing and sustainable production, with key retailers, brands, and contractors, Source Home & Gift increases in size by 25% with producers from UK, China, India, Philippines, Nepal and many more showcasing their wares. Debuting at the show will be pavilions from Senegal and Ghana.

All exhibitors are required to have had a recent audit from Sedex or a recognisable audit institution giving buyers the confidence that they will meet suppliers that have responsible business practices. The show features eight sectors including Homewares, Toys, Packaging, Stationery & Greetings, Gifts, Furniture, Textiles, and Technology & Services.

Source Home & Gift includes a content stage dedicated to presenting and discussing the latest trends and topics in responsible and sustainable manufacturing from internationally renowned industry professionals.

The last show in September was attended by leading retailers and brands including Sainsburys, Dunelm, Haskins Garden Centre, Blue Diamond, Funky Pigeon, M&M, Matalan, Disney, Morrisons, M&S, Next, Costcutter, AIS, Alzheimers Society, Amazon, B&Q, and Card Factory.