From the Sector

Composite reinforcement specialist Chomarat will exhibit its latest woven and multiaxial carbon fibre reinforcements at JEC World 2019. "Prepregs are used in the most demanding markets, such as aerospace or the automotive industry. Due to their high performance, Chomarat’s carbon fabrics are highly considered by prepreggers. Compared to standard solutions, the multiaxial reinforcements developed by the group offer Chomarat’s converter customers significant productivity gains. With its production sites in France, Asia and the United States, Chomarat is able to supply its customers and guarantee the same high level of quality in all countries," explains Group Managing Director Michel Cognet.

C-WEAVE™ - THE QUALITY AND RELIABILITY BENCHMARK
In just a few years, prepreggers have come to consider Chomarat's C-WEAVE™ carbon-fibre fabrics as a benchmark for surface-finish quality and processability.
The reinforcement contributes to productivity and reliability during the prepregging process. Helen Doughty, Director at SHD Composites, testifies: “The consistent high quality of C-WEAVE™ has been a key part of SHD Composite Materials continued success and growth.”
"Prepreg users often manufacture Class A surface parts for demanding applications, and they need excellence and reproducibility," explains Chomarat’s Prepreg Market Manager Ulrike Salmon.

C-PLY™: GOING FURTHER WITH CARBON MULTIAXIALS
The advantages of multi-axial reinforcements are now well established - oriented axes, absence of resin-rich areas allowing a high fibre content, and improved mechanical tensile and/or bending performance thanks to the non-crimp fibres.
By developing its C-PLY™ range, Chomarat further demonstrates that multiaxials are a real asset in terms of performance and appearance. "Chomarat strives to minimize marking on parts and to optimize surface quality through fibre spreading and the use of suitable stitches. C-PLY™ can also integrate aesthetic functions by using the assembly seam as a graphic design", continues Ulrike Salmon.
These new advantages are important for the automotive, sports-equipment and consumer-electronics markets, which seek to combine premium quality and productivity.

ROICA™ discloses five key and influencing brands with unique outfits already available in the market, that demonstrate how ROICA™ is able to deliver and transform basic performant stretch in eco hi-tech valuable innovations interpreted in five, completely different, contemporary lifestyles!

Inspired by the need for style-conscious, sustainable garments that are versatile for every life situation, AEANCE was created as a brand that merges ready-to-wear with technical apparel. The brand`s values are timeless minimalism, substance and understated luxury. Less, but better. AEANCE is committed to creating garments with the least possible impact on the environment and has set up a supply chain focusing on eco-sustainability and ethical responsibility. The Women`s Light Padded Jacket of the look selected for ISPO is the result of a collaboration with the acclaimed industrial designer Konstantin Grcic.

Knowing the transformative power of fitness, DAQUÏNI® was founded in 2012 to help women bridge the gap between how they feel and how they think they look when they are working out. Each DAQUÏNI® item is made in the E.U. from highest quality Oeko-Tex® certified materials. The brand’s first choice in fabrics is SOFILETA (founded in 1911) with its luxurious technical fabrics with ROICA™ V550 premium stretch awarded with Cradle-to-Cradle Innovation Institute’s GOLD LEVEL material health certificate.

The New York based brand Erin Snow creates chemically safe, circularly designed, socially fair luxury performance apparel. The Teri pant is Erin Snow's most innovative and highly anticipated pant to date. Teri is made from the finest bluesign® approved Schoeller 4-way stretch fabric containing ROICA™ V550 premium stretch sustainable fiber. The pant is insulated with PrimaLoft® Gold Luxe and repels water and dirt without PFCs, thanks to Schoeller's ecorepel® Bio finishing while giving maximum freedom of movement.

The SCOTT Racing Team, the Italian Mtb Pro Rider Team born in 1988, selected the high performance for active clothing identifying Rosti, SITIP and ROICA™ as strategic partners to ensure unique and performant biking outfit composed by tights and jacket. Made with the special BEHOT fabric by SITIP, constructed with active performance materials belonging to the ROICA Feel Good™ family, it not only insulates, but generates up to 2 degrees of heat as you workout as certified by CeRism, Outdoor Sport Research Centre at Verona University. Long life stretch, superior shape retention and best breathability thanks to the Blizzard by SITIP fabric that ensures thermal comfort and easy care to the users. A valuable choice that perfectly matches the performances of an experienced team of specialists.

SITA hits the European panorama for the first time at ISPO with ROICA™ few days after the official launch in US and Saudi Arabia on January 31st. Its high-tech debut collection for Spring 2019 provides women with an all-new luxury concept of timeless foundational apparel made in New York balancing concealed performance features and style to meet womens’everyday dynamic lifestyle. The newly-created made in Italy SITATECH™ fabric includes permanent agents that neutralize odor, withstand machine wash, and exhibit superior quality. The intricately designed fabric takes on instant appeal with nanotechnology fibers and ROICA™ CF, a yarn with an active smart odor neutralizer property, then knitted in Italy by Maglificio Ripa.

Die K-Mail Order GmbH & Co. KG (KLiNGEL Gruppe) verstärkt ihre Geschäftsführung. Seit dem 1. Februar verantwortet Cord Henrik Schmidt als Chief Financial Officer (CFO) die kaufmännischen Bereiche des Pforzheimer Unternehmens. Schmidt ergänzt damit die Führungsriege um den stellvertretenden Chief Executive Officer (CEO) Armin Bischoff.
 
Mit seiner neuen Position tritt Cord Henrik Schmidt die Aufgabe an, die kaufmännischen Prozesse und Strukturen der KLiNGEL Gruppe weiter zu entwickeln und damit die nächsten Schritte der Transformation des Konzerns zum Multichannel Distanzhändler weiter voranzutreiben. Der 51-Jährige war zuletzt beim Modehändler Walbusch als Kaufmännischer Geschäftsführer tätig und verfügt über umfangreiche Erfahrungen im Multichannel-Handel. Unter anderem konnte er Erfahrungen als Leiter Controlling der Douglas Holding und als CFO der buch.de internetstores AG sammeln.

• Patented technology with bluesign®, ECO PASSPORT, and Skin Friendly certification

Polyester sport and functional textiles treated with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 are protected against “permastink”. Already a holder of the Swiss Technology Award, the Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 odor-management technology can now carry the bluesign® sustainability label, the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. SANITIZED AG has been a bluesign® system partner for over 10 years.

An unwelcome odor can quickly develop in polyester sport and functional clothing, even if freshly washed. This is “permastink”. It’s a challenge to the textile industry as it generally reduces the attractiveness and market opportunities of sport and functional clothing made from polyester.

The patented, non-biocidal Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 technology provides specific solutions and sales arguments for the end products. It works in two ways: The odor-causing bacteria can’t stick to the textile surface and are washed out completely in a normal wash cycle. This is due to the anti-adhesive “coating” applied in the padding process. This effect has been proven in a test procedure developed in cooperation with EMPA (Swiss Federal Laboratories for Material Science and Technology). Secondly, the treatment has an adsorbing effect. The odors are “trapped” and repeatedly expelled during a normal wash cycle.

No binder, no nano
Another characteristic: The treatment with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 doesn’t apply an additional binder system. As with all of our products, SANITZED AG uses no nano technology. The safety and tolerability have been confirmed by the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. These have now been joined by the bluesign® accreditation.

• Innovative BCF S8 platform technology opens up new carpet yarn industry markets for Oerlikon Neumag customers

World premiere at the DOMOTEX World Trade Fair for Carpets and Floor Coverings in Hanover: between January 11 bis 14, 2019‎, Oerlikon Neumag will be showcasing its innovative new development, the BCF S8, to a wide audience for the very first time in Hall 11, Stand B36. Whether commodities or niche products – the new BCF S8 platform technology offers manufacturers of BCF carpet yarns decisive arguments for responding to constantly rising cost pressures and the trend for greater efficiency and quality in fiercely-competitive markets. World record: the system achieves never-seen-before spinning speeds and is able to simultaneously spin up to 700 filaments and produce fine titers of up to 2.5 dpf. This superlative performance is guaranteed by numerous individual innovations in the new platform and, for the first time, also in a new human-machine interface (HMI)-based control system, which opens the door to the digital age of smart carpet yarn manufacturing wide. At the ITMA ASIA 2018, the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment had already announced that it would be presenting revolutionary solutions in 2019 – both in hardware and software. And the DOMOTEX marks only the start.

According to manufacturer information, the new BCF S8 is the most efficient Oerlikon Neumag BCF system of all times. “We have succeeded in achieving a new level of greater productivity and even broader product diversity. These allow our clientèle to better cater to changing market requirements and achieve a competitive edge in tough market conditions”, explains Martin Rademacher, Vice President Sales Oerlikon Neumag. As a pre-taste, the machine specialists from Neumünster are serving up performance figures and results from comprehensive trials conducted at their own BCF technology center as well as from two pilot systems which have been tried and tested within the market for months now.

BCF S8 performance in numbers
With up to 700 potential filaments per yarn end, the BCF S8 is raising the benchmark considerably compared to the Oerlikon Neumag S+ BCF system (400 filaments) that has dominated the global market to date. Oerlikon Neumag guarantees fine titers of up to 2.5 dpf. Furthermore, the process speed is higher than ever before – 3,700 m/min (winder speed). This permits throughputs of up to 15 percent greater compared to predecessor technologies. Overall, system efficiency is 99 percent – almost unbeatable. True to the Oerlikon Segments Manmade Fibers segment e-save philosophy, energy savings of up to 5 percent per kilogram of yarn are achievable.

BCF S8 innovations – from straight yarn paths to large cooling drums

This comprehensive progress has been achieved with numerous smart innovations. To this end, one key element above all has been optimized. The yarn path from the spinning system to the new, large cooling drum has now been almost completely straightened. This yarn path, unique to the BCF market to date, ensures that the individual filaments are subjected to minimum friction, hence once again considerably reducing yarn breaks and optimizing the overall production process. Especially noteworthy here are the, for the first time, straight yarn inlet in the texturing head – guaranteeing superior yarn quality.

And the considerably reduced distance between the heating godet duo and the texturing head also has a positive impact on the texturing process. It ensures a more even twist to the yarn and reduces the compressed air consumption. Furthermore, the texturing chambers can be removed individually, which additionally shortens servicing times. The now closed units also provide the best possible protection for the texturing jets and lamellar chambers.

The 800-mm diameter cooling drum optimally and gently cools the filaments. And this has a positive influence on the yarn quality. The new cooling drum is now equipped with a V groove for all polymers (PET, PA6 and PP) as standard.

The RoTac3 tangling unit, already established within the market, once again reduces the compressed air consumption by around 50%, while the newly-developed Witras III-37 winder achieves production process speeds of 3,700 m/min.

First intuitively-operable human-machine interface (HMI)
The new BCF S8 is the first Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment system equipped with the innovative human-machine interface (HMI) for intelligent controlling and monitoring. In this case, the interface between man and machine has been oriented on the daily requirements of users in BCF production. With its new ‘look and feel’, it supports intuitive operation and offers direct access to important information as well as actual and target values at each take-up position by means of a touch screen. A completely new ‘alarm philosophy’ also simplifies troubleshooting and malfunction analysis. “This smart HMI system is a logical step in the digitalization of our products”, explains Dr. Friedrich Lennemann, Vice President R&D Oerlikon Neumag.

• Performance Days - November 28 and 29, 2018 – Hall C1 Booth B18
• Two of TINTEX’s fabrics have made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category that represents fabrics which are a valuable contribution to this season Performance Days Focus Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”

See, touch and experience the latest collection from TINTEX as they reveal a wonderful range of innovative fabrics that redefine fashion, inspire creativity, spark emotion and optimize responsible solutions. TINTEX, being an ingenious leader in textile and research innovation for over twenty years, transforms a new generation of cotton and other natural based materials. Established in the Porto region as authorities in superior dyeing and finishing techniques making TINTEX Textiles the perfect choice for fashion.

All the recent awards bestowed, demonstrate TINTEX continue research and commitment. They have been awarded for the Best product of the Base Layer Category by ISPO jury, moreover they have just received the prestigious German Design Awards 2019 and last but not least, they are selected as finalists for the Future Textile Awards in the category Best Innovation for Sustainable Textiles.
TINTEX continues to lead the way, as they proudly take part in the Make Fashion Circular initiative, by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation and activate change industry wide. This initiative aims to collaborate and innovate towards a new textile economy based on the principles of a Circular Economy.

In addition, since this November, TINTEX is a bluesign® system partner, thus means that they are responsibly acting parties of the textile value chain committed to applying the bluesign® system, continuously improving their environmental performance and always been focused on a sustainable future.

A milestone for TINTEX and fashion, as they launch Naturally Clean - an exceptional smart finishing process that is uniquely responsible. Naturally Clean enhances the natural beauty of cotton, takes a cost effective modern approach to eliminate aggressive treatments and optimizes clean surfaces, vivid colors, providing an exquisitely smooth handfeel. Naturally Clean achieves this by using Novozymes technology, a company that is indeed the world leader in biological solutions. Second, using textile chemicals with the lowest possible environmental impact, without compromising performance, from Beyond Surface Technologies AG. Naturally Clean maintains the original characteristics for an extended period of time. All materials are Oeko-Tex and soon bluesign® certified, thus eliminating harmful substances.
TINTEX’ Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 collection includes vibrant tones, refreshing turquoise and electric green, light and warm copper with chocolate browns that connect the natural and spiritual in an extra-sensorial universe. Infused with a stunning palette of nostalgic and multicultural colors - warm yellow with darkened reds, dynamic purple with urban greys - that express globalization and human connection.
Key smart ingredients of the season are:

• A New Generation of Cotton: GOTS certified organic cotton, Supima® cotton, and ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi the smart cotton that saves up to 77.9% water consumption and introduces the concept of a circular economy.
• SeaCell™ and Smartcel™: produced using the Lyocell process in a closed loop with no chemicals released as waste. The patented process of SeaCell™ allows that the positive properties of the seaweed are permanently preserved within the fiber, even after multiple washing cycles. Smartcel™ includes the essential trace element zinc providing anti-inflammatory capabilities.
• REFIBRA™ by Lenzing technology involves upcycling a substantial proportion of cotton scraps e.g. from garment production, in addition to wood pulp, where the raw material is transformed to produce new TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber to make fabrics and garments.
• Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei: A new generation GRS Certified material, made from cotton linters, with a biodegradability certification by Innovhub. A matchless, high tech natural material, with a special handfeel and aesthetics.
• ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei
  - ROICA™ EF has a percentage of pre-consumer recycled content that is more than 50%, and thanks to this it has been GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.
  - ROICA™ V550 a premium stretch innovative yarn boasting the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold Level for Material Health product and ingredients as it was evaluated throughout the supply chain for lower impacts on human and environmental health. Striving toward eliminating all toxic and unidentified chemicals for a safe continuous cycle. Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate - ROICA™ proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substances.

Of special interest this season, the two TINTEX’s fabrics that made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category for their contribution to this season Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”.

A smart rib developed to reduce the water usage as most as possible, from cultivation of raw materials until fabric finishing. A blend of TENCEL™ Modal, cellulosic & biodegradable material treated with no hazardous chemicals, pesticides nor fertilizers, and European hemp, a fast-growing plant that requires very little water and no herbicides, pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or GMO seeds. Both fibres are biodegradable.

The second selected article is a 100% Merino Wool jersey made unique thanks to Colorau® by TINTEX, a patented natural dyeing process technique that uses vegetable herbs and extracts. A great amount of water was saved by avoiding subsequent washing steps. Also, lower water pollution is achieved by avoiding synthetic dyestuffs.

Decline in revenue due to lower prices for standard viscose, less favorable currencies and lower production volume

• Pressure on prices for key raw materials remains high
• Positive impact due to focus on specialty fibers and further optimization of the product mix
• Expansion project in Mobile temporarily mothballed
• Acquisition of the remaining 30 percent of Lenzing (Nanjing) Fibers Co. Ltd.

The Lenzing Group recorded a solid business development in the first three quarters of 2018. The decline in revenue and earnings compared with the same period of the previous year was essentially based on a mix of lower prices for standard viscose, more unfavorable exchange rates and price increases for key raw materials. The Lenzing Group’s strategic orientation with a focus on specialty fibers had a positive impact in this environment.

Revenue decreased by 5.2 percent to EUR 1,636.2 mn over the comparative period of the previous year. Apart from the high starting base, this was primarily attributable to the expected challenging market environment for standard viscose, less favorable exchange rates and lower production volume. EBITDA (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) recorded a decline by 26.8 percent to EUR 290.6 mn due to price increases for key raw materials and higher energy and dissolving wood pulp prices. The EBITDA margin dropped from 23 percent in the first three quarters of the previous year to 17.8 percent. EBIT (earnings before interest and tax) fell by 36.2 percent to EUR 190.3 mn, leading to a lower EBIT margin of 11.6 percent (01-09/2017: 17.3 percent). Net profit for the period dropped by 39 percent from EUR 219.3 mn in the previous year to EUR 133.8 mn. Earnings per share equaled EUR 5.06 (01-09/2017: EUR 8.12).

“The Lenzing Group is currently operating in a challenging environment. Against this background, we are satisfied with the solid business development and the corporate strategy sCore TEN has a positive impact. The new production line in Heiligenkreuz started up successfully and customers’ feedback has been positive,” says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “While many viscose producers are faced with a very tense profit situation, we are well positioned due to our specialty strategy and still expect a satisfactory full year”, Doboczky adds.

Key strategic measures were implemented during the first three quarters of 2018 in line with the sCore TEN strategy. The start-up of new capacities for lyocell fibers in Heiligenkreuz, the production start of LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibers at the Nanjing site and the investment in another pilot line for TENCEL™ Luxe filaments are important steps to accomplish the goal of increasing the share of specialty fibers in total revenue.

Project in Mobile temporarily mothballed
Due to the decision to temporarily mothball the lyocell expansion project in Mobile, Alabama (USA), in view of the buoyant US labor market and trade tensions between the major trading blocks, the implementation of the expansion plan for specialty staple fibers will be slowed down. The Lenzing Group will put all its effort to readjust the execution of its growth plan to meet strong market demand for its lyocell fibers. This includes an increased focus on the lyocell expansion project in Prachinburi (Thailand).

Advancing forward solutions
Regarding the capacity expansion for specialty products such as TENCEL™ Luxe filaments and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ viscose fibers, Lenzing is still on track. After the introduction of TENCEL™ Luxe branded lyocell filament yarns in the previous year, Lenzing continues to drive innovations in the area of the value chain. In September, the company also announced the successful development of the LENZING™ Web Technology, a new technology platform focusing on sustainable nonwoven products, which will lead to new market opportunities for the industry. Following several years of research and development work and investments totaling EUR 26 mn, the pilot plant at the headquarters in Lenzing has been successfully put into operation.

Largest dissolving wood pulp line worldwide
At the end of June, the Lenzing Group and Duratex, the largest producer of industrialized wood panels of the southern hemisphere, announced that they had agreed on the terms and conditions to form a joint venture to investigate building the largest single line dissolving wood pulp plant in the state of Minas Gerais (Brazil). This decision supports the self-supply with dissolving wood pulp and the growth in specialty fibers. The joint venture is investigating the construction of a 450,000 t dissolving wood pulp plant, which is expected to become the largest and most competitive single line dissolving wood pulp plant in the world. The final investment decisionto build the dissolving wood pulp plant is subject to the outcome of the basic engineering studies and the approval by the respective supervisory boards.

Acquisition of Chinese operation
At the beginning of November the takeover by the Lenzing Group of the remaining 30 percent of its Chinese subsidiary Lenzing (Nanjing) Fibers Co. Ltd. (LNF) from its state-owned joint venture partner NCFC was completed. After closing of the transaction, the Lenzing Group will hold 100 percent of LNF. The acquisition will have a negative impact on net profit of approx. EUR 21 mn for the fiscal year 2018. The purchase of the shares supports Lenzing’s strategic growth as a producer of specialty fibers from the renewable raw material wood in China and worldwide. It paves the way to setting up further production lines for specialty fibers. Lenzing wants to convert LNF into a specialty fibers hub over time.

Expansion of capacities
CAPEX (investments in intangible assets and property, plant and equipment) rose by 35.5 percent year-on-year to EUR 174.1 mn in the first three quarters of 2018. This is primarily attributable to capacity expansions in Heiligenkreuz and the expansion of the existing dissolving wood pulp plant in Lenzing as well as the investments made so far in Mobile.

Outlook
Demand development on the global fiber market remains positive. Lenzing expects wood-based cellulosic fibers to continue to grow at a higher rate than the overall fiber market. In a challenging market environment the Lenzing Group expects solid results for 2018, albeit lower than in the outstanding last two years.

For 2019, Lenzing expects standard viscose markets to remain under pressure because of an ongoing oversupply and very high raw material prices. Lenzing’s specialty fiber business is expected to continue the very positive development.

The above-mentioned development reassures the Lenzing Group in its chosen corporate strategy sCore TEN. Lenzing is very well positioned in this market environment and will continue its consistent focus on growth with specialty fibers.

TRSA recently held its Annual Membership Meeting for the nomination, election and swearing-in of new Officers and Directors.
Jim Buik, president of the Roscoe Co. in Chicago is TRSA’s new chairman. Buik served as vice chairman of TRSA in 2017-2018. The Roscoe Company is Chicago’s leading independent uniform service company.

Jim has been active in linen, uniform and facility services associations. He’s a graduate of TRSA’s Executive Management Institute (EMI). He served on various committees, task forces and boards and was chairman of UTSA, which blended with TRSA, from 2003 to 2005. He has been a pioneer of industry technologies and best practices. Through association programs he has shared Roscoe’s experience in developing these innovations, including marketing automation, wastewater treatment and employee skill certification.

Additional officers and directors sworn in at the meeting:
•    Noel Richardson, Officer-Vice Chair, Shasta Linen Supply, Sacramento, CA
•    Jim Kearns, Officer-Treasurer, Alsco Inc., Salt Lake City
•    Bob Dudley, Director, APPEARA, Norfolk, NE
•    Scott Finkelstein, Director, Ace Uniform Services Inc., Baltimore
•    Dan Sanchez, Director, Medline Industries Inc., Mundelein, IL

In addition, Directors Randy Bartsch, Ecotex Healthcare Linen Service and P.J. Dempsey, Dempsey Uniform & Linen Supply were re-elected for second terms and will be officers serving on the TRSA Executive Committee.

• At Kingpins Show Amsterdam (24-25 October) the new “Committed Accessories” dedicated to denim take centre stage.

For the appointment with the exhibition dedicated to denim Metalbottoni focuses on its new range of increasingly green accessories which have captured the attention of the northern European brands most attentive to sustainability in the world of jeans and elsewhere. A range of proposals which, in recent months, has progressed remarkably, following the rules established by the corporate responsibility protocol called NO IMPACT.

This is a responsible approach underlined by the promise “Committed Accessories”, but also a strategic choice with a view to approaching those markets which so far have appeared to be most keen on the subject, for example northern Europe, Benelux and the United States, California in particular. This means that Metalbottoni is acting with increasing assertiveness on those scenarios where it has been present for a long time, in order to increase the segments depth, intercepting new ones, thanks to its wide-ranging eco-compatible proposal.

NO IMPACT: “Committed Accessories” expanded

It is the constant search for sustainable innovation that reveals the extent of the progress made over the past few months by Metalbottoni. For the Kingpins Show exhibition, there are many novelties in store from the company, extending its range in terms of sustainability. Firstly, there is the new MONSTER line eco-processing, special for pure denim, which – apart from metal – includes new material solutions developed through high-profile collaborations.

Also the LEATHER ACCESSORIES line is extending its range of sustainable materials. The line of tags and rear waistband labels is enhanced through interpretations based on two new eco-friendly materials: recycled jacron and cork. For denim designed to be 100% green, also in accessories. Sustainable proposals are increasingly integrated throughout the Metalbottoni range, for example the new glossy and satin finishing developed for the line LABORA on exclusive metal accessories.

Partnerships with brands from northern Europe: Bik Bok and Kings of Indigo

One of the most important collaboration in sustainable fashion is the one with the Norwegian brand Bik Bok. The brand that was founded in 1973 dedicated to young women, today offer accessible trend driven fashion through a network of over 200 single-brand stores in Norway, Sweden, Finland and Austria. The brand has since 2017 chosen to use only BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) certified cotton for their in house premium denim brand Never Denim. For Never Denim Metalbottoni has realized a series of jeans buttons and personalized rivets, all entirely produced according to the NO IMPACT protocol; which means recycled raw materials, no use of chemical agents, through processing and machinery that minimize the use of water and electricity, resulting 100% from photovoltaic panels. All these features are part of a capsule developed for the new AW 2018 collection for Never Denim entirely made with Fair Trade certified cotton. Thanks to this project, the No Impact becomes an integral part of a collection that is aimed at a very large, young and aware public.

Another important brand which has chosen the new NO IMPACT metal accessories is Kings Of Indigo, the Dutch denim mill which is presenting top-quality jeans, inspired by traditional American style, combined with Japanese attention to detail, which today has as many 250 authorised dealers in 12 countries, with a very strong focus on northern Europe.

More and more sportswear for the new Monster SS 2020 collection

The great Metalbottoni classic dedicated to denim confirms the trend of strongly merging with the world of sportswear. The MONSTER line introduces the style developments of the SS 2020 season, with the range being more and more influenced by technical and sports interpretations, alongside sustainable production processes based on the NO IMPACT protocol. The new MONSTER proposals include items made of non-metal material, using sustainable processes, of natural origin and 100% biodegradable; these accessories are similar in appearance to traditional polyester, interpreted in a responsible way, developed through a series of special and unique effects. Also the button, rivet and small plate range has been restyled, having always been the core of the MONSTER line. Today the number of solutions available increases  hanks to new vintage finishing, developed on metal accessories, which are also totally green. “The denim world is moving in a clear direction: that of sustainability.” says Maria Teresa Ricciardo, Creative Director at Metalbottoni, “This is true in particular for some markets, which are strategic for us, and where we are proving increasingly successful, thanks to constant product and process research from a green  perspective, which Metalbottoni today is able to offer within the framework of the NO IMPACT pathway which we have been pursuing for a long time”.

A new important partnership marks the path of Itema towards a greener future for the whole denim production chain. Prosperity Textile, one of the main denim producers worldwide, has chosen for its new facility one of the most interesting and sustainable-oriented Itema technologies, iSAVER™ equipped on the Itema R95002denim. Prosperity Textiles is, in fact, one of the early adopters of this new technology chosen for the new plant that the world-famous indigo fabrics producer will open in Vietnam, and that will be exclusively equipped with the latest Itema weaving machine model, demonstrating once again its green, future-oriented approach.

Thanks to its partnership with Itema, Prosperity Textiles makes again a step forward in terms of sustainable innovation, as one of the first denim producers able to successfully turn - even the weaving production - green. A partnership that is planned to be showcased in some of the most important textiles exhibitions worldwide focusing on Asian and denim markets. A path that starts with KingpinsShow, Amsterdam (October 24-25) where the Chinese denim producer will put into the spotlight this brand-new solution aimed at further increasing the eco-driven approach of the company; an important appointment is also in the Itema calendar: the ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 exhibition, Shanghai (October 15-19) where the Italian company showcased the important green step-forward in denim weaving processes and the full range of its innovations.

iSAVER™: the ideal green tool for denim weaving
This new technology, developed by ItemaLab™, the Itema Advanced Innovation Department, isable to completely eliminate the left-hand weft waste, allowing to insert the weft yarns in the fabric without the need of additional yarns. iSAVER™ significantly reduces raw material waste, leading to tangible benefits in terms of machine’s efficiency, cost reduction and energy saving.

Just consider that the weaver will gain a minimum saving of € 2.000 per year per machine, and our planet will gain even more. In fact, for the first time in the weaving industry, a sustainable approach when choosing the weaving equipment is now possible. Thanks to iSAVER™, 1.000 Kg of cotton per machine per year – the 3% of the total raw materials - will be saved, thus avoiding the waste of 20 million liters of water, equivalent to 400.000 showers.

Numbers are clear: the introduction of iSAVER™ clearly sets a new benchmark in terms of sustainability within denim fabric production. Furthermore, the iSAVER™ is one of the key features of the Itema R95002denim, the rapier weaving machine born and designed to weave denim guaranteeing to weavers superior textile quality, outstanding user-friendliness and tangible energy and raw materials saving.

A joint eco-driven path
Itema, understanding very well the importance of saving resources and energy to drive the textile production in the direction of a more conscious manufacturing, focused its attention to develop breakthrough weaving solutions and in 2018 introduced to the market the iSAVER™, a revolutionary device dedicated specifically to denim fabrics able to eliminate the waste selvedge on the left-hand side of the fabric.

This is one of the reasons-why Prosperity Textiles has chosen to adopt this extraordinary technology for its new facility. Today Prosperity Textiles is one of the main denim producers worldwide, counting 1,300 employees and 20 offices worldwide. Moreover, a second state-of-theart denim mill will be inaugurated in Vietnam by the end of 2018.
What makes Prosperity able to stand out on a global scale, is not simply its products high quality but the ability to conciliate flawless denim fabric production with a sustainability-oriented mindset that permeates every stage of their textile supply chain.

Prosperity, indeed, adopted innovative green manufacturing concepts through all stages of the company’s operations, from product development, raw materials procurement and processing, to natural resources and energy utilization including waste management. Prosperity’s denim production is based on the employment of best quality yarns available on the market, while still targeting the most sustainable sources, from BCI to organic, recycled cotton, and from Tencel™ Lyocell to Sustans™, in 2017, more than 20 million yards fabric sales from Prosperity are with sustainable fibers inside.
The introduction of eco-friendly dyeing and finishing practices allows the company to create beautiful indigo shades and performance denims, with less water and energy consumption compared to the traditional systems. Last year, Prosperity produced 20% more fabrics than 2016, yet the water and electricity use and greenhouse gas emission was down by 11.5%, 7.9% and 5.4% respectively.

In this continuous process of improvement and contribution to a greener industry and planet, plays a central role the recent renewal of the historic partnership and strategic alliance with Itema – the leading manufacturer of cutting-edge weaving solutions – which represents the natural evolution of a constant process of research for partners able to support Prosperity Textiles’ growth as a sustainable company.
Up to now, all innovations and efforts done in this regard addressed the traditionally more polluting steps of the denim production. In fact, if the development of green technologies is nowadays spread in many fabric processing stages, such as finishing and dyeing, weaving was not yet capable to provide sustainable solutions to weavers.