From the Sector

• 76 KL/Day water saving by optimizing pH analysis process in dye vessels
• A step closer to achieving the ‘Huntsman Horizon 2025’ goal
• Potential savings of over Rs 10 crore or USD146,000 annually from the project

Huntsman Textile Effects, the global leader in innovative and environmentally sustainable dyes, chemicals, and digital inks, has successfully implemented a water conservation process to improve water efficiency and reduce net water usage at its Baroda facility, which is located in the western region of India. The initiative undertaken at the plant aims to save around 76 kilo liters of Reverse Osmosis water per day by modifying the phase sequence in the pH measurement program.

Water is used extensively throughout textile processing operations. The amount of water used varies widely in the industry, depending on specific processes operated at the plant, equipment used, and policies concerning water use. This conservation project at the Baroda Plant will have a potential savings of Rs 10 crore or USD146,000 a year for the organization.

Speaking on the development, Mark Devaney, Vice President Manufacturing and Operations Excellence, Huntsman Textile Effects said, “At Huntsman, we recognize the important role we play in creating a more sustainable future and are committed to the well-being of the communities where we operate, and the protection of the environment. We are continually looking for ways to improve the environmental footprint of our manufacturing sites and have been implementing numerous projects in recent years to reduce our water usage.”

“The team has done a detailed assessment of the pH analysis process in dye vessels, mapping the existing water usage and potential conservation method. After a brief study and several brainstorming sessions, we were able to adjust the phase sequence, resulting in conservation of Reverse Osmosis water by almost 76 kilo liters of water per day.” said Kavishwar Kalambe, Site Director, Huntsman Textile Effects. “This project directly contributes to Huntsman’s Horizon 2025 goals to reduce net water usage at facilities in water-stressed regions,” he added.

• High-Performance Solutions and Protection Effects

Huntsman Textile Effects, a global leader in innovative and sustainable textile dyes and protection effects, is bringing a complete suite of solutions for performance apparel, technical textiles and casual wear to Colombiatex de las Américas 2022 from January 25 to 27.

Sustainable solutions
Huntsman Textile Effects will showcase the latest addition to the third generation of its AVITERA® SE polyreactive dye range; it delivers brilliant bluish-red shades while reducing the water and energy required for production by up to 50% and increasing mill output by up to 25% or more. It also outperforms the best available dyeing technologies for cellulosic fibers and blends in terms of value by reducing recipe costs, minimizing processing costs and eliminating reprocessing.

ERIOPON® E3-SAVE is another next-generation water-saving innovation. An all-in-one textile auxiliary for polyester processing, it allows pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing to be combined in a single bath and eliminates the need for anti-foaming products. This shortens processing time and saves water and energy.

rPET processing innovations
As leading brands begin to work towards a circular economy for textiles, mills are being asked to overcome challenges associated with transforming recycled polyester (rPET) into high-quality new textiles. Huntsman Textile Effects is presenting an end-to-end solution for achieving full whites and consistent shades on rPET with right-first-time quality. This eco-friendly rPET processing solution includes pre-treatment chemicals, fluorescent whitening agents, state-of-the-art washfast dyes, and finishing solutions for high-performance protection and comfort.

Washfast disperse dyes for polyester and man-made fibers
TERASIL® BLUE W is the latest addition to Huntsman’s TERASIL® W/WW range of washfast disperse dyes for polyester and man-made fibers and their blends. Crucially, it is not sensitive to reduction, leading to higher reproducibility, higher right first-time results and operational excellence. It also reduces overall water and energy consumption, as well as water effluent. TERASIL® BLUE W offers high build-up for deep blues that stay vibrant.

Next-generation odor control
In partnership with Sciessent, Huntsman Textile Effects presents antimicrobial and odor-control solutions to Colombiatex to enable mills to produce garments that smell fresh for longer and need less frequent washing. Featured is Sciessent’s new anti-odor technology - NOBO™. It is specifically designed to reduce odors in natural and synthetic fabrics; it can be incorporated into virtually any fabric. From base layer and activewear tops to socks and underwear to jeans and chinos. It offers a cost-effective way to upgrade everyday products and add value to your customers.

“Sustainability is becoming a priority for regulators in South America and around the world, and consumers are increasingly keen to make a difference by choosing green brands,” said Ben Powell, Commercial Director Americas, Huntsman Textile Effects. “Huntsman is redefining what’s possible to help textile and apparel companies make the shift to more environmentally sustainable operations while enhancing their competitiveness at the same time. Our innovations make it possible to benefit from efficiency gains and resource savings in the factory as you deliver products that stand out in the market.”

The final program will provide valuable information on the various use-opportunities for cellulosic fibres through a policy overview, a special session on sustainability, recycling and alternative feedstocks, as well as the latest developments in pulp, cellulosic fibres and yarns. In addition, examples of non-wovens, packaging and composites will offer a look beyond the horizon of conventional application fields.

You can expect to see the “Top 6” candidates of the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2022” in Cologne. For the second time, the innovation award will be granted to the innovative cellulose fibre industry for developing new technologies and applications. All producers and inventors along the entire value chain from feedstock to the final product are invited to join the competition. The Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2022 Award will be voted for by conference delegates as well as online participants on the afternoon of 2 February.

The internationality of this Cellulose Fibres gathering is reflected in its colourful line-up of international speakers. 42 speakers from 12 countries will demonstrate the differences in regional development paths and their transferability to other areas.

You can view the final program here.

Under the ClusterXchange pilot scheme, the EXTRATEX partnership organised a 5-day exchange in Czech Republic, hosted by CLUTEX (cluster for technical textile).

15 participants visited strategic and innovative companies in the field of smart materials and advances technologies, as well as research centres and the Liberec University.

During the exchange, 92 B2B meetings were organized between local companies and the exchange participants, with 75% of the contacts established leading to follow-ups after the conclusion of the exchange. This collaboration laid the foundation for potential cross-border and cross-sector business collaboration, and participants of the physical exchange improved their competences in the field of smart materials and advanced technologies.

According to a testimony from the company Bipier Srl, their participation in the exchange allowed the establishment of two important working relationships with Bcb Informatica Y Control and Vyskummy Ustav Chemickych (Research Institute for Man-Made Fibers). This cooperation wil allow Bipier Srl to equip their machines with quality temperature control, and to expand the distribution of their products.

• RadiciGroup and DKB introduce the first “circular” ski suit
• A garment made of yarn obtained from recycled materials and designed with end-of-life recyclability in mind, without compromising style, design and technical performance.
• RadiciGroup Ski Club athletes will be the first ambassadors of this sustainability project

The first truly sustainable ski suit, featuring Italian style and design and a zero-kilometre supply chain, is finally here. Two Bergamo companies of excellence played the leading roles in the conception and realization of this highly innovative fashion-sport garment: RadiciGroup, a world leading producer of chemical intermediates, polyamide polymers, high-performance engineering polymers and advanced textile solutions, and DKB, a company specializing in technical sportswear with the same brand name.

The ski suit, consisting of jacket and trousers, is fashioned with a fabric made of RENYCLE, a RadiciGroup yarn obtained from mechanically recycled polyamide (nylon), which affords notable savings in energy and water consumption, as well as lower CO2 emissions. In addition, the suit’s padding and numerous accessories, such as zippers, Velcro, buttons and thread, are also made of polyamide.

This achievement was made possible by the great teamwork of RadiciGroup and DKB on the research and development of chemically compatible materials that can be used in special applications requiring high technical performance. The end result is an almost mono-material garment that significantly facilitates end-of-life recycling. It can be more easily converted into polymers for use in the manufacture of ski boot components and bindings, in addition to applications in the automotive and furnishing industries, or in any other sector requiring the characteristics of high performance polyamides.

The ski suit by RadiciGroup is thus an all-round application of ecodesign and circular economy principles to fashion and garment making, which justifies the claim “Una sostenibilità all’altezza delle nostre montagne” [Sustainability worthy of our mountains] written in a logo patch on the inside of the jacket.

“I am particularly proud of this achievement, a synthesis of my passion and effort,” said Angelo Radici, president of RadiciGroup. “I’ve always loved mountaineering and skiing, and, together with my collaborators, I work hard at our company day in and day out to find innovative solutions that improve the sustainability of our industry. This ski suit is concrete proof of the fact that textiles and apparel can be made sustainable without compromising on comfort, design, looks or performance. I will never get tired of repeating that collaboration among the firms along the production chain is crucial to manufacturing goods with an ecodesign approach, considering their end-of-life recyclability and, thus, potentially giving them unlimited durability. Upstream producers, like us, gladly share our know-how in materials chemistry and experience in recycling with our downstream partners, so that, together, we can find sustainable and viable solutions in the various sectors where we operate.”

• Focus now on digital fair platform

The PERFORMANCE DAYS team regrets having to cancel at short notice the physical edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS which was scheduled to take place on December 1-2, 2021 at the Messe München exhibition center. Right up until today, the event organizers of PERFORMANCE DAYS were in the final stages of preparations for the fair. The goal of being able to realize a fully booked fair with a portfolio like in pre-pandemic times seemed to be within reach. The political regulations agreed in Bavaria from November 19, 2021 and the heavily restricted constraints associated with an incidence of 1000 have far-reaching consequences for PERFORMANCE DAYS. As a result of the current sharp rise in the number of infections in Munich, the planned winter edition must now be cancelled as a precaution. The focus now is now completely on the digital fair on December 1 and 2, 2021.

The new measures are scheduled to come into effect in Munich from the middle of this week, which would lead to very short-term changes. The organizers of PERFORMANCE DAYS therefore see themselves in the responsibility to enable a minimum of planning security as well as a responsible handling of the given situation with this decision.

“Exceptional situations require exceptional decisions – making these all the more difficult. After experiencing a very successful and surprisingly well-attended fair with the Functional Fabric Fair by PERFORMANCE DAYS in Portland, Oregon last week, we have tried everything possible up to the last moment and firmly believed that we would finally set a further positive milestone with the physical edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS in Munich. We fulfilled all the requirements, updated our hygiene concept several times to comply with the dynamically changing measures and took all the necessary precautions for a safe event. Unfortunately, current developments do not allow us to host the trade fair event next week, since the undisputed top priority is the protection and health of our visitors. Now our focus turns to the full implementation of the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021”, explains Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS

Focus on digital platform
The PERFORMANCE DAYS team is now investing all its efforts into implementing the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021. As part of THE LOOP, those interested have the opportunity as of now to view online the fabric innovations and news for the Winter Season 2023/24, this year’s Focus Topic “Sustainable Nylon” and the latest color trends. In the Marketplace, visitors will be able to view the numerous exhibitor products, including the PERFORMANCE FORUM’s curated sustainable fabric highlights. In order to present the fabrics to visitors as realistically as possible in terms of feel, design and structure in digital form, the PERFORMANCE FORUM has been equipped with new 3D-technology, including innovative tools such as 3D images, video animations and downloadable U3M files. Throughout the Digital Fair, exhibitors and fair visitors can look forward to extensive networking opportunities. For example, as part of the extensive digital supporting program on December 1, with various expert talks, discussion rounds and speakers via livestream, moderated by Charles Ross live from the studio. On December 2, the “sustain & innovate” conference on this year’s Focus Topic “The Sustainable Future of Nylon” will kick off with discussions and panels, moderated by Astrid Schlüchter, Editor-in-Chief of SAZsport and SPORTSFASHION by saz.  

A very special thank you goes out to the entire PERFORMANCE DAYS community with its exhibitors, visitors and partners for their active support, trust, loyalty and understanding in these still extraordinary times. The team looks forward to the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021 and further ahead to meeting you all personally on April 27 and 28, 2022 at the summer edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS live in Munich.

The Chairman of the Walter Reiners-Stiftung foundation of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association, Peter D. Dornier has awarded prizes to three successful young engineers. The award-winning works provide practical solutions on the topic of circular economy. For example, the recycling of carbon fibres, which are used to produce lightweight components for the automotive industry. Or the environmentally friendly production of yarns from crab shells. Another topic was medical applications: The processing of ultra-fine yarns into stents for aortic repair. The award ceremony took place online on 9 November as part of the Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference.  

With a creativity prize, endowed with 3,000 euros, the foundation honoured the diploma thesis of Irina Kuznik, TU Dresden. She used a creative approach to realise solutions for processing chitosan into fibre yarn.

Mr Kai-Chieh Kuo was awarded the diploma/master's thesis promotion prize of 3,500 euros. With his master's thesis, which was written at RWTH Aachen University, Mr Kuo contributes to the production of vital components used in medicine. The stents made of ultra-fine yarns are made possible by an innovative modification of the classic tube weaving process.

The Walter Reiners Foundation rewarded the doctoral thesis of Dr. Martin Hengstermann with the promotional prize in the dissertation category, endowed with 5,000 euros. The thesis deals with the production of recycled carbon fibres. These can be used to produce lightweight components for motor vehicle and aircraft construction or the wind energy sector.

New Prize Sustainability / Circular Economy
The environmental conditions of the textile industry and machine construction are changing. Topics such as climate protection and the circular economy are becoming central. From this perspective, the board of the Walter Reiners Foundation has decided to further develop the foundation's prize system.

In 2022, the foundation will for the first time offer a prize with a focus on design / sustainability. Peter D. Dornier, Chairman of the Foundation, explained: "Already in the design phase, one can set the parameters so that a textile product can be reintroduced after use into the economic cycle for a high-quality application. For example, through the appropriate use of materials and finishing. We are looking for solutions for resource-saving design, technology and manufacturing processes."   

• Results of experiments conducted by the University of California’s prestigious Scripps Institution of Oceanography in San Diego provide further scientific proof that LENZING™ fibers offer an effective substitute to synthetic fibers that are part of the pressing problem of plastic pollution in our oceans.

Lenzing/San Diego – The Lenzing Group, a world-leading provider of wood-based specialty fibers, has received further scientific proof of the biodegradability of its fibers. In a study published in October 2021 , scientists from the prestigious academic research institute Scripps Institution of Oceanography (SIO) at the University of California, San Diego confirmed that wood-based cellulosic fibers biodegrade in the ocean within a short period of time at the end of their life cycle, making them a better alternative to fossil-based fibers. The research was the result of an independent project trying to understand the “end-of-life” scenarios for textiles and nonwovens discarded in the environment.

SIO has a global reputation for being one of the oldest, largest and most important marine research centers worldwide. In this study, SIO compared the degradation processes of nonwovens made from fossil-based synthetic materials such as polyester with those of cellulosic materials such as Lenzing’s wood-based lyocell, modal and viscose fibers in specific scenarios – under various real oceanic conditions and controlled aquaria conditions. The results of these experiments are striking: while wood-based cellulosic fibers fully biodegraded within 30 days, the fossil-based fibers tested were practically unchanged after more than 200 days.

The biodegradability of LENZING™ fibers was also tested in the laboratory of Organic Waste Systems (OWS) in Belgium – one of the world's leading companies in biodegradability and compostability testing – which showed data confirmed by those found with the real-life measurements at Scripps. The OWS assessment was conducted in accordance with applicable international standards and reflects relevant natural and artificial conditions in which biodegradation can occur. Certificates from the certification organization TÜV Austria show that LENZING™ fibers rapidly biodegrade in all test environments (soil, industrial composting, home composting, fresh water and marine water) within the time frames set by the applicable standards.

Lenzing also welcomes the EU’s targeted measures to combat plastic waste in general, such as those relating to the single-use plastic directive (EU) 2019/9043. In its recently adopted guidelines for implementing the directive, the EU Commission stipulates the specific products that fall under this category, which is a well-needed effort to provide clarity to the EU member states for their joint campaign against environmental pollution from plastic waste. Lenzing’s wood-based, biodegradable cellulosic fibers can be part of a sustainable and innovative solution to this man-made problem that will continue to grow. As of July 2021, the single-use plastic directive sets out standardized labelling requirements for certain products, either on packaging or on the products themselves, which include plastic-based feminine hygiene products and wet wipes for body care or household use. This is a start to tackle the problem: educate the consumer and offer alternative materials with better circularity.

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles concluded its 27th autumn edition in early October. Held alongside four other concurrent textile shows, the fair was the only major event for this sector able to take place in China during this season, providing a much-needed business platform for 735 exhibitors and 20,106 trade buyers. The fair was held at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai).

Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd expressed: “Due to the valuable cooperation of many parties and the continued support of our exhibitors and other partners, we were able to hold the fair as scheduled despite a number of challenges. Since the pandemic situation was brought under control in China last year, we have expended considerable resources to ensure our textile fairs still take place to provide trading platforms that connect the global industry. This edition was especially important as it was the only major fair to take place in the country at this time.”

While a number of international exhibitors participated this year with individual booths, the Belgium Pavilion presented home and contract products and five Chinese regional pavilions from Hangzhou, Shaoxing, Huzhou, Haining, and Tongxiang also featured. Two trend forums also provided inspiration for 2022, while the IKASAS Japanese Home Design Gallery, New Voices of Top Youth Upholstery Designers City Roving Exhibition and China International Fiber Art Exhibition gave further insights into various aspects of the industry.

Fair’s fringe programme highlights sustainability, design and more
As with all of Messe Frankfurt’s textile fairs around the world, sustainability is a big focus. A number of events under this focus took place in the fair’s fringe programme, including a half day forum titled How Sustainable Fashion is Reshaping Lifestyles, with a range of innovative companies and prestigious universities participating as speakers.

The Design Talk session featured a series of presentations from leading international designers, including from China, Japan and Europe, to share their design insights. And a new concept this year, titled New Voices of Top Youth Upholstery Designers – Intertextile Upholstery Design and City Roving Exhibition, showcased the work of six groups of young local designers from across China who presented the interior design ideas of their generation through displays and a forum. And reflecting the changes that continue to accelerate in the industry, a number of e-commerce and cross-border trade events took place, including sessions from the likes of JD Home, AliExpress and Tmall.

The 2022 Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition will take place from 9 – 11 March, while the Autumn Edition is scheduled for 23 – 25 August 2022.

• A purpose-driven B2C festival for a young and optimistic generation

With THE GROUND, the PREMIUM GROUP is organizing a major fashion festival for young end consumers for the first time. Responsible for the event concept, in addition to Anita Tillmann, Jörg Arntz and the PREMIUM GROUP - team, is B2C expert Kai Zollhöfer, who already helped to make the Bread & Butter by Zalando a crowd puller.

“THE GROUND is a B2C festival aimed at a young, purpose-driven generation. This new generation has a strong stance on current social and environmental challenges and expects brands to reflect them. The overriding topics at THE GROUND are therefore sustainability, diversity and equality”, says Kai Zollhöfer.

“A  large  number  of  customers  are  interested  in  more  sustainable  options  -  there  is  a  desire  for  a  more conscious lifestyle, but this trend is currently not yet reflected in their actual shopping behavior. In between lies the so-called attitude-behavior gap, which THE GROUND wants to close further as a platform for brands with transparency and cool communication. We cannot expect that every brand, every consumer is currently doing everything 100% right, but it is the responsibility of all of us to take one small step in the right direction every day. We have to talk openly about how to do this in order to learn from each other so that we can take as many people as possible with us on this journey to a more sustainable future.“

The 3-day experiential marketing playground offers brands the opportunity to interactively exhibit purpose-driven stories and products and connect with consumers. In addition to the focus on fashion, brands from the areas of well-being, beauty, mobility and technology will present innovative products and solutions.