From the Sector

• Goal: to further reduce the textile value chain’s impact on people and planet      

As the textile industry continues to grapple with evolving regulations, increased consumer and stakeholder pressure to meet sustainability goals, and the lack of verified data, bluesign® has updated its service offerings to help brands, manufacturers and chemical companies to better understand and manage their value chains.

The new initiatives expand Bluesign’s core competencies of reducing impact across the supply chain, providing reliable, third-party verified data, mitigating the use of hazardous chemicals through input stream management and replacing substances with bluesign® APPROVED chemistry (a positive list of chemical products with less impact on people and planet). Bluesign’s high value services are available for all companies willing to reduce the impact of their value chain without compromising on quality.     

Bluesign is extending its System Partnership services and launching DATA SERVICES and IMPACT SERVICES for brands and manufacturers. These tiered service packages provide expanded capabilities that enable brands to actively monitor and manage their supply chain through Bluesign verified impact data, covering the critical measures of water consumption, energy consumption, greenhouse gas emissions, chemical consumption, and waste.

DATA SERVICES allow brands and manufacturers to access data from its unique supply chain and give a snapshot of their impact. Through the IMPACT SERVICE package, companies are provided this data plus a foundational assessment of its overall performance and detailed analysis of its suppliers.

The new IMPACT SERVICE enables manufacturers to present their achievements in impact reduction and their excellence in resource management.  The new tiered packages will allow companies to incrementally implement Bluesign’s services with the ultimate goal of attaining full SYSTEM PARTNERSHIP which includes company-specific action plans. At all service levels, a yearly impact report or dashboard is provided; access to this data enables accurate analysis for decision-making and reporting both internally and externally.

The recent Techtextil show in Frankfurt emphasised the diversity of applications for nonwovens and technical textiles, according to finishing technology specialist Monforts.

“We fielded enquiries at top management level from an extremely wide range of companies, all with very different ideas for new product applications during the show,” said Alexander Fitz, who joined the company a year ago as engineer for textile technologies and co-ordinator of the Monforts Advanced Technology Centre (ATC). Fitz brings a background in both technical textile technology and processes to the role, having previously worked for a nonwovens machinery builder and a roll-goods manufacturer.

Trials
“We are now looking forward to interesting new trials and pilot production runs, as well as the commissioning of new orders for machines resulting from the extremely busy exhibition,” he says. “Obviously, everyone at the moment is looking to make energy savings, and we have developed a range of options for helping companies increase their resource efficiency, both on new lines and as retrofitted systems, but this is not stifling innovation at the new material level.

“There was a lot of interest in what is possible with the Montex®Coat coating system and the range of different techniques it enables, and at our ATC in Mönchengladbach, a Montex®Coat unit is integrated into the full technical textiles pilot line, on which it is possible to run new fabrics in widths of up to 1.8 metres.”

Explosion proof
The technical textiles line at the ATC incorporates a Montex four-chamber stenter and is fitted with an explosion-proof coating application chamber in order to allow treatment to be carried out with organic solvents and other volatile materials.

Every single component within the chamber has to meet the standards of the European Union’s ATEX directives for working in a potentially explosive atmosphere. A range of sensors linked to alarms operate at various levels within the chamber to ensure the specified lower explosion limit (LOL) is never exceeded and the ventilation adapts accordingly.

Advanced functions
Special features on the finishing line relate to further advanced functions such as the ability to treat materials not only at temperatures of up to 320°C, but also to be able to treat the top and bottom faces of certain materials at different temperatures within a single pass through the machine.

To achieve this, the first two chambers of the stenter are fitted with special, heavy duty TwinAir ventilation motors and separate burners for individual top/bottom temperature. A temperature differential of up to 60°C can be achieved between the upper and lower nozzles within the chamber, depending on the treatment paramenters.

Another key feature of the technical textiles line at the ATC is the special stretching device which is capable of pulling ten tons in length and ten tons in width – a huge amount per square metre of fabric and necessary in the production of materials such as woven or 3D knits for high temperature filter media.

AkzoNobel has announced that Gregoire Poux-Guillaume will become the company’s new Chief Executive Officer (CEO) as of November 1, 2022.

He will succeed Thierry Vanlancker, who has been CEO and member of the Board of Management since 2017, and whose term of office is coming to an end.

Gregoire (52), a French national, is an international business leader with 25 years of experience. He has a distinguished track record of building successful, profitable businesses in challenging environments, accelerating business growth and improving margins.

Previous roles include CEO of Sulzer, CEO of GE Grid Solutions (previously Alstom Grid) and Senior Managing Director of CVC Capital Partners.

Catering to the acoustic requirements of electric vehicles, Autoneum has extended its concepts for noise-reducing engine encapsulations to new applications related to electric drives. Hybrid-Acoustics PET and the foam-based alternatives Hybrid-Acoustics FLEX and Fit FLEX ensure optimum noise protection in e-cars and thus improve driving comfort. All three technologies are characterized by a high acoustic performance tailored to specific customer needs and zero waste production.

Disturbing noises such as the high-frequency sounds of e-motors and other electric devices or the whining noise of the gearbox are posing new acoustic challenges for vehicle manufacturers worldwide. Anticipating the increasing demand for sound-reducing components in both the front and the rear of e-cars early on, Autoneum has expanded its technologies for noise protection in the engine bay to new tailor-made applications for electric vehicles.

With the fibrous technology Hybrid-Acoustics PET and the two foam alternatives Hybrid-Acoustics FLEX and Fit FLEX, the Company offers three standardized technologies that reduce noise directly at the source, thereby improving driver comfort. All three technologies are produced waste-free and their adaptive capacity to different sizes and shapes allows for a broad spectrum of uses in electric vehicles: from e-motor encapsulations to the reduction of noise and vibration of inverters, gearbox, pumps and compressors. By offering both fibrous and foam-based variants, Autoneum is able to flexibly cater to individual customer needs and preferences with regard to material, acoustic concept, sustainability and costs.

In terms of sustainable noise protection in the engine bay, Autoneum’s patented innovation Hybrid-
Acoustics PET sets the tone: it is made of 100 percent PET with up to 50 percent recycled fibers; cut-offs in production are reclaimed, processed and reused and the material can be fully recycled at the end of product life. The unique textile technology, which is part of the Company’s sustainability label Autoneum Pure, is particularly suited to attenuating high-frequency sounds of the electric drive unit and offers the optimum balance of absorption and insulation. Moreover, components made of Hybrid-Acoustics PET are up to 40 percent lighter compared to standard insulators.

To accommodate the differing preferences of vehicle manufacturers, Autoneum has complemented its lightweight textile technology with two foam-based alternatives. Since the foam is injected in both technologies, no waste is generated during production either. Hybrid-Acoustics FLEX is based on the same acoustic concept as Hybrid-Acoustics PET, but the decoupler is made of foam instead of felt. Autoneum’s Fit FLEX, on the other hand, combines the foam decoupler with an injection molded heavy layer. Thanks to the high geometrical adaptability of foam to even complex shapes, both technologies offer outstanding acoustic performance in the insulation of e-motors and other noise sources in electric vehicles. Furthermore, the absorbing or insulating acoustic quality of the foam can be flexibly tuned to specific customer needs.

• Joining Science Based Targets initiative

ith its Advance Sustainability Strategy 2025 launched in 2018, Autoneum defined ambitious goals in the areas of environment, society and governance. In the past year, significant quantitative and qualitative improvements were achieved, as shown in the Corporate Responsibility Report 2021 published today. For example, CO2 emissions were reduced in 2021 and the proportion of reused production scrap (recycling) was significantly increased.

Following Autoneum’s decision last year to extend its environmental targets with quantifiable targets for all direct and indirect greenhouse gas emissions and a time horizon to 2027, the Company has recently signed the declaration to join the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi). Autoneum acknowledges the urgent need for action and will submit its ambitious, science-based targets to the SBTi to reduce CO2 emissions in the near term. In addition, Autoneum is reporting its Scope 3 emissions in full for the first time. In line with the strategic goal of continuously reducing electricity purchases from fossil fuels and replacing them with renewable energies, ten plants worldwide were converted to renewable energies in 2021.

In the past year, Autoneum again implemented a large number of projects in the areas of “Sustainable Products and Production Processes”, “Fair and Attractive Workplace”, “Good Corporate Citizenship” and “Responsible Supply Chain Management”: 29 eco-efficiency projects with a focus on materials efficiency and recycling contributed to more environmentally friendly production and correspondingly more sustainable components worldwide. The result was a significant reduction in waste and a further optimization of processes for a range of products. Moreover, new eco-efficient products were successfully launched on the market.

A complete overview of all targets and activities during the past year can be found in the Corporate Responsibility Report 2021.

Archroma will be at Techtextil 2022 in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, from 21 to 24 June 2022, to launch its latest innovations and system solutions aimed to help textile manufacturers with optimized sustainability, productivity and value creation in their markets.

Archroma will present 9 new solution systems and 3 innovations, and will hold 2 booth events.

3 innovation highlights

• PFC-free* Smartrepel® Hydro SR, a new solution developed for the repellence of water-based soil;
• Biocide-free OX20, a new odor-neutralizing technology newly launched by our partner SANITIZED AG;
• Perapret® AIR, a new mineral finishing technology for air purification is activated by natural and artificial light sources and can be applied on all fabrics

9 new solution systems
Archroma introduced its first ever solution systems at the Techtextil 2019 edition, and since then has developed more than 30 systems for technical textile and nonwoven applications.

• CLEAN AIR, a mineral air purification system that stays put on all kinds of fabrics and is activated by artificial and natural light, for as long as there is light; ➔ based on the new Perapret® AIR;
• CONSCIOUSLY DEEP, a metal-free one-step scouring and dyeing system for medium to very dark colored nylons that stay deep and bright day after day, and are good for you and the planet;
• EARTH SOFT, a biomass-based and vegan softening system that is suitable for all kind of fibers and makes you comfortable in your own skin;
• NATURE BOUND, a compostable binder system for food filtration materials that protect you and the planet;
• ODOR CONTROL 2.0, a system for odor-free sportswear where permastink cannot build up on your favorite clothes, that’s applicable on polyester, cotton and nylon; ➔ based on the new OX20;
• RAG N’ROLL, a compostable binder system for nonwoven cleaning rags, that protect you and the planet;
• SAFE SEATS NextGen, a PFC-free* and halogen-free* modular surface treatment system for safer and cleaner seating materials, ➔ based on the new Smartrepel® Hydro SR;
• SWEET DREAMS, a metal and particle free* system that redefines protection for mattress ticking fabrics, with long-lasting hygiene and outstanding softness, that protects you and the environment;
• TAKE A BREATH, an enhanced filtration system that keeps your air clean and fresh for longer putting health first and your competition behind;

2 booth events
A WORLD WITHOUT ODORS, FIGHT OR FLIGHT?
Innovation highlight: Biocide-free OX20 odor management solution by SANITIZED AG

Speakers:

• Nuria Estape, Panel Moderator, Head of Marketing & Promotion, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, Archroma
• Georg Lang, Head of CC Finishing, Archroma
• Stefan Müller, Head of BU Textiles Additives Sanitized
• Yann Ribourdouille , Global registration expert Product Stewardship, Archroma

A WORLD WITHOUT PFC, DREAM OR REALITY?
Innovation highlight: PFC-free* Smartrepel® Hydro SR

Speakers

• Nuria Estape, Panel Moderator, Head of Marketing & Promotion, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, Archroma
• Roland Borufka, Head of Competence Center Repellents, Archroma
• Wolfgang Knaup, Head of R&D repellents, Archroma
• Yann Ribourdouille, Global registration expert Product Stewardship, Archroma

Suominen further strengthens its position as the frontrunner in sustainable nonwovens by launching HYDRASPUN® Circula, the market’s first ever nonwoven made with recycled paper.

HYDRASPUN® Circula is biodegradable, plastic-free and can be used in multiple applications. The product was created in cooperation with Codi Group, one of Europe’s leading wet wipe producers. Drawing from both parties’ industry expertise, the new product offers a variety of applications to meet consumers’ daily needs.

“It is important for Suominen to continuously develop new sustainable products to be able to offer even more choices to our customers. HYDRASPUN® Circula is a perfect example of how we can develop our nonwovens with innovations and more sustainable raw materials. HYDRASPUN® Circula is also a proof of great product development towards circular economy without compromising excellent quality and functionalities,” says Johanna Kivistö, Manager, Category Management, Europe.

Carbios announces the appointment of two new members to its Executive Committee: Lionel Arras, Industrial Development Director, and Mathieu Berthoud, Sourcing and Public Affairs Director.

Lionel Arras joined Carbios’ teams in 2021 to support the industrial growth of PET enzymatic recycling technology as Industrial Development Director. He was appointed to the Company’s Executive Committee on May 2. An engineer who graduated from ENSIC Nancy and holds an MBA from the Lyon School of Management, Lionel Arras has more than 25 years of experience in the field of process engineering and the chemical industry.
At Carbios, he now heads a team of around 50 people mobilized around three major divisions:
- the industrial demonstration plant, inaugurated last September in Clermont-Ferrand,
- technological development,
- the first Reference Unit project, installed on the Indorama Ventures site in Longlaville, Meurthe-et-Moselle, France.

Lionel Arras, Carbios’ Industrial Development Director: “After the successful start-up of our industrial demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, we are continuing our scale-up with the construction of the first enzymatic recycling plant in the world in Longlaville, France. Its launch, scheduled for early 2025, will enable the processing of 50,000 tons of post-consumer PET waste or the equivalent of 2 billion bottles. It is a great source of pride for me to be able to support Carbios in this strategic development phase.”

Mathieu Berthoud will join Carbios as Sourcing and Public Affairs Director on June 1, 2022. With more than 30 years of experience, including 10 years at Rhodia (now Solvay) and more than 20 years at Suez, in various commercial development or subsidiary management positions, he was most recently Technical and Performance Director for the Group’s recycling and recovery activities. A university-trained scientist, he also holds an MBA from HEC Paris. At Carbios, he will be responsible for securing the supply of PET waste for the future reference plant in Longlaville and the other industrial sites that will follow. He will also manage the Company’s public affairs.

• Exceptionally high order backlog and sustained strong demand
• Supply chain bottlenecks, COVID lockdown in China and significant cost increases
• Takeover of winding machine business leads to additional costs
• Sales and earnings adversely impacted in first half-year
• Considerably improved market position

Despite an exceptionally high order backlog and sustained strong demand, Rieter’s business situation in the first half of 2022 is characterized by the well-known supply chain bottlenecks, the repercussions of the COVID lockdown in China and the significant increases in material and transportation costs.

Further costs are added in connection with the takeover of the automatic winding business as of April 1, 2022.

These factors are adversely impacting both sales and earnings.

Rieter expects significantly higher sales in the first half of 2022 compared to the prior-year period (first half of 2021: CHF 400.5 million). Rieter anticipates a loss at the EBIT and net result level in the first half of 2022 (first half of 2021: EBIT CHF 9.0 million, net result: CHF 5.3 million).
The company is working intensively on the implementation of measures to minimize the impact of the supply chain bottlenecks, the COVID lockdown in China and the cost increases. The implemented price increases have a delayed effect, particularly in the machinery business. The integration of the automatic winding business is proceeding according to plan.

As soon as the situation in the sourcing markets has normalized, Rieter expects to benefit from the exceptionally high order backlog and the considerably improved market position as a result of the takeover of the automatic winding business as well as Accotex and Temco.
Rieter will provide a detailed report on the business results of the first half of 2022 in July 2022.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) reported a strong 1Q22 result, building on its record FY 2021 performance as the pandemic continued to retreat, driving demand across the company’s global integrated portfolio.

IVL achieved 1Q22 Core EBITDA of US$650 million, up 41% QoQ and 77% YoY, and a 4% increase in production volumes to 3.80 MMT. All three of IVL’s business segments grew as the company’s leading global position benefited overall in an environment of higher crude oil prices, increased ocean freight rates and a strengthening US dollar, led by resurging consumer demand and global mobility.

IVL’s Integrated Oxides and Derivatives (IOD) business benefits from a high crude oil price environment, as its shale gas advantage supports MTBE and MEG margins. As ocean freight rates increase, IVL’s PET and Fibers segments gain due to increased import parity pricing in Western markets, where about two thirds of its portfolio is situated. Management’s agile response to hedging and levying surcharges has helped to partially recuperate the surge in energy and utility costs in Europe as a consequence of the Russia-Ukraine conflict.

The re-opening of economies bodes well for demand across IVL’s portfolio. However, China’s ongoing pandemic lockdowns impacted downstream polyester demand resulting in weakened MEG spreads. IVL’s businesses trade in US dollars and a strengthening dollar has positive impact, reducing conversion costs in emerging economies where IVL has a strong local presence.

Combined PET segment reported Core EBITDA of US$435 million, up 63% QoQ and 67% YoY supported by the reset of PTA/PET contracts at the end of 2021. IVL expects the tight supply-demand environment to continue through 2022, boosted by the upcoming peak summer season.

IOD segment achieved Core EBITDA of US$126 million, up 3% QoQ and 258% YoY as MTBE margins benefited from higher crude oil prices, demand remains strong for downstream products, and as the commissioning of the Lake Charles cracker contributes to earnings in 2022. The integration of the Oxiteno acquisition, completed in April, will bring additional upside to IOD from 2Q22.

Fibers segment delivered Core EBITDA of US$85 million, an increase of 4% QoQ and 17% YoY. Demand across the three Fibers verticals is stable with domestic sales yielding better profitability, while higher freight rates weighed on margins on export volumes from Thailand, Indonesia and India, and increased energy and utility costs impacted European operations.

1Q22 Performance Highlights

• Consolidated Revenue of US$4,444M, an increase of 12% QoQ and 37% YoY
• Record Reported EBITDA of US$784M, a YoY growth of 63%, and Core EBITDA of US$650M, a YoY growth of 77%
• Production volumes up 4% YoY to 3.80 MMT
• Reported Net Profit of THB 14,070M, Core Net Profit of THB 10,578M
• Reported EPS of THB 2.47 (LTM1Q22: 5.98) and Core EPS of THB 1.85 (LTM1Q22:4.96)
• Record Core EBITDA Margin at 15%