From the Sector

The two AZL Partners Conbility GmbH and Fraunhofer IPT, Aachen started their long-term cooperation for the further development and for the commercialization of Fraunhofer´s tape-placement and tape winding systems with in-situ-consolidation by the usage of laser or IR heat sources.

With this cooperation, the company Conbility GmbH makes 25 years of expertise in special machine development of tape placement systems of the Fraunhofer Institute for Production Technology IPT commercially available. Conbility offers two different tape processing systems available in different configurations.

The “PrePro 2D” machine system allows for the automated tailored tape placement of UD laminates and which can be used for subsequent thermoforming or as stiffening structures in injection molding processes. The machine comprises a rotating and translational table which is moved relatively to the applicator station. The table is scalable according to the requirements of customers. Standard table diameters are 1200 mm or 2000 mm. The applicator station can be equipped with a single or with multiple spool applicators. Because of the large process area, a 9 kW IR heater is used for the in-situ-consolidation process.  
Three in one: Three technologies included in one single modular system
Furthermore, the award-winning “PrePro 3D” tape placement and winding applicator is available as modular product with decentral control system (including closed-loop control of energy input into the processing zone) for the “plug-in” implementation in existing robot systems or machine systems by standard interfaces for the communication with the master control system. Conbility provides the single applicator as well as turn-key ready systems including the robot and handling systems.

Unique selling point of the PrePro 3D system is its multifunctional range of usage: it accomplishes laser-assisted thermoplastic tape placement, IR-assisted thermoset prepreg placement and dry fiber placement: Three technologies included in one single modular system.  

During the JEC World in Paris (March 6th – 8th 2018), Conbility GmbH will present its new “VCSEL Tape Placement and Winding Applicator” (Fig. 3), developed in cooperation with Fraunhofer IPT and Philips Photonics at the AZL Composites in Action area (Hall 5A, C55).

VCSEL Laser Systems as heat source for lower investment and process costs
This applicator uses an integrated VCSEL Laser System as heat source which has been developed by Philips Photonics. This tape placement and winding applicator can also be integrated as modular “plug-in” system into industrial jointed-arm and linear gantry robots in variable manufacturing cells. Using the new VCSEL Laser as heat source (VCSEL: Vertical-Cavity Surface Emitting Laser) leads to significant lower investment and process cost in comparison to other laser systems. Furthermore, the VCSEL laser system can accomplish controllable in-process adjustments of the laser-spot geometry as well as the intensity distribution within the spot size during the process (in-process control of laser-spot geometries and intensities) for the first time. The new system with 2 kW laser power and 10 separate emission zones which can be controlled separately will be shown at JEC World in Paris 2018 as new product of Conbility GmbH.

At this year's Heimtextil, which took place from 9-12 January in Frankfurt, Trevira impressed visitors with a brand new fair concept. The company worked together with sixteen of its biggest customers to create a joint booth covering 1,305 square metres of Hall 4.2, drawing a large crowd.

Head of Marketing, Anke Vollenbröker, explained, "Thanks to our new approach and booth concept, we were able to present our brand Trevira CS in an open and welcoming manner plus highlight the good relationship we have with our customers."

Trevira CEO Klaus Holz added, "We are really pleased with the very positive feedback we have had from all sides in response to our grand Trevira CS joint booth. We would like to thank everyone who has contributed to the booth's success. The extremely positive market reaction has reassured us that this is a concept we can build on in the future."

A Trevira exhibition formed the centrepiece of the joint booth, showcasing the winning fabrics from the 2018 Trevira CS Creativity Competition, which this year featured "Colour" as its major theme. At the heart of the display, visitors could find out more about Trevira with the help of twelve tablets providing information in a variety of formats, including a staff presentation and a flyer about the new Trevira Sinfineco® brand.

Encircling this core and thereby completing the joint booth concept, sixteen major customers grouped their individual stands around this centrepiece to display their own new Trevira CS collections for residential and contract usage. The customers joining Trevira to create the booth were Baumann Dekor Ges.m.b.H., Engelbert E. Stieger AG, FIDIVI Tessitura Vergnano S.p.A., Georg + Otto Friedrich, Jenny Fabrics AG, Johan van den Acker Textielfabriek B.V., Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co. KG, Pugi R.G. S.R.L., Spandauer Velours GmbH & Co. KG, SR Webatex GmbH / Getzner Textil AG, Swisstulle AG, Tessitura Mario Ghioldi & C. srl, Torcitura Fibre Sintetiche S.p.A., Torcitura Lei Tsu S.r.l. / Ilcat S.p.A., Vlnap a.s. / Wagenfelder Spinning Group and Wintex S.r.l..

Another major section of the Trevira booth was dedicated to the world of acoustics. Increasingly, customers are (re)discovering textiles as a way to significantly improve the quality of room acoustics, and this part of the booth also attracted numerous visitors.

A special highlight at the joint booth were the Trevira CS sports shoes, worn by Trevira staff as a key element of the brand's trade fair outfit. The shoes are an Adidas Originals Special Edition of the iconic Stan Smith Silhouette, which Adidas manufactured in cooperation with Kvadrat.

In keeping with annual tradition, the new Trevira CS Gold and Silver Club members were announced during the Heimtextil fair. The new members were presented with their awards at a formal ceremony on Tuesday evening (9 January).

TINTEX is pleased to present its latest fabric innovations at the above salons with a new range of more than 80 qualities and styles designed for the Sportswear, Athleisure, Fashion and Underwear market sectors. The collection focusses on three jersey fabric concepts: TIMELESS, FASHIONABLE & INNOVATIVE.

TINTEX is a modern industrial company based in the Porto region since 1998, producing market savvy fabrics for global designers and brands. TINTEX makes a truly sustainable range of precision, modern hybrid jersey fabrics that offer a better, Naturally Advanced choices to all its customers.

The new ‘Naturally Advanced’ position means “advancing beautiful, organic and natural materials to the next level combined with unique, hybrid ‘nature-tech’ smarts, with advanced, added value and creativity, thanks to dedicated investments that serve and secure our customer demands both now and in the seasons to come” says CEO Mario Jorge. New innovations, which include the ISPO Best Product Award i (SOFT EQUIPMENT category) in TexTrends for fall winter 19/20, maintain and upgrade the honest but hi-tech sustainable organics that is at the heart of the TINTEX DNA to create better, smarter eco-materials, always with new levels of performance and hi-tech smarts, thanks to its expertise in specialist dyeing and finishing techniques, coatings and applications. These are all researched, designed and made using the latest equipment and processes. This season the new TINTEX collection plays with new colour balance techniques that deploy the benefits of chromotherapy for welbeing alongside skin safe materials and finishings.

The collection uses up to 90% of new smart and sustainable materials and include: Tencel, Modal & Micromodal, Organic Cottons, Supima cottons, Seacell fibres, Natural organic linens and the new, full colour ECOTEC® yarns by Marchi & Fildi, a smarter cotton made from pre-consumer clippings that in manufacture save up to 79% water. This season TINTEX is also introducing the new ECOTEC® yarn Phoenix (50% ECOTEC®, 50% recycled polyester, NM1/50 GRS-certified) for open, light and dry textures. Wellbeing credentials are guaranteed with Tessile e Salute certifications, TINTEX also presents new developments using the ROICA™ Eco Smart family of ecosustainable stretch yarns with certificated credentials. This family of yarns claim the world-first GRS certified ROICA™ premium stretch yarn that comes at least 50% from recycled pre-consumer waste.

The newest introduction for second skin qualities and for products to the athleisure market within TINTEX collection is ROICA™ Feel Good family that promises a new level of performance with ‘feelgood comfort’ and freshness.

For colouration effects, we can use the ROICA™ Colour Perfect family of yarns to create a flawless and responsible finish to dyed performance stretch assortments. Colours to Tranquilize, to Activate the Senses, to Recharge, to Energize.

Key highlights include: changeant effects (yarn and dyeing solutions), thermosensitive (reds/ blues) coatings, UV sensitive coatings and colourful coated patterns, extra fine and semi-transparent jerseys, but also, compact and fluid qualities.

A shining example of how technology and design work interact: On 3 November, 2017, Schoeller Textil AG wins the Design Preis Schweiz 2017/18 in the textile category. E-soft-shell is a heated fabric which can be cut to size without affecting the embedded technology and is primarily suited to clothing for outdoor activities and motorcycling.

The innovative company Schoeller Textil AG from the Rhine valley is the proud winner of the Design Preis Schweiz 2017/18, picking up the award for Excellent Swiss Design in the textile category on 3 November, 2017 in Langenthal.

Together with the whole Schoeller team, the Schoeller delegation – consisting of Roland Lottenbach (Head of Research and Development, left), Dagmar Signer (Marketing, centre) and Ruedi Kühne (CFO, right) - takes enormous delight in this recognition for the many years of intensive work. The company received the award for the heated fabric, E-soft-shell. Among others, the evaluation criteria were: technologies, material combinations, zeitgeist and innovation.

E-soft-shell by the meter

The Design Preis jury commented as follows on the Schoeller development: Electrically heated clothing which makes it possible for us to stay pleasantly warm in winter has long been a dream of the textiles industry. Projects in this field have hardly made it beyond the development and trial phase hitherto. But now Schoeller Textil has created E-soft-shell, a material that makes this utopia a reality. E-soft-shell is a laminate consisting of bi-elastic tissue, machined lining and a functional corkshell coating. The heating technology is integrated with the fabric in a diamond-shaped geometrical pattern. It is based on metallic yarns, making it possible for the material to be evenly heated at standard voltages. The fabric is designed to be sold off the roll, and can be cut up without affecting the embedded technology. It is suitable above all as clothing for outdoor activities or motor cycling – but applications in the fashion or wellness worlds could also come into consideration.

Reinach, Switzerland, 30 October 2017 - Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, today announced its first-ever collaboration with Kathmandu, the well-known New-Zealand born and based outdoor brand. Kathmandu selected Archroma and its EarthColors range of plant-based dyes to create a new capsule collection of the brand’s signature hoodie.

Archroma’s EarthColors range recently came to public attention for being the Gold Winner of the OutDoor Industry Award 2017, Sustainable Innovations category, where Kathmandu also presented their first hoodies just off of the production line. Archroma’s EarthColors is a line of patented plant-based dyes, sourced from up to 100 percent renewable resources. Archroma developed EarthColors using non-edible waste products, from agriculture and herbal industries, to replace petroleum derived raw materials; which are the conventional raw materials used to synthesize dyes currently. This gives brands an alternative when looking for more natural ways of dyeing garments.

Archroma and Kathmandu teamed up to create an exclusive “vintage casual” look.

The colors available in the capsule collection: slate blue, burnt olive and burlwood rose, are made from the non-edible parts of nutshells, almond shells, rosemary, saw palmetto, bitter orange and beetroot, left over from agriculture industry or herbal extraction. The collection is available online at www.kathmandu.com.au.

“We are very proud and grateful that Kathmandu selected Archroma’s EarthColors for their first incursion into the world of nature-based colors,” comments Paul Cowell, Head of Brand Marketing in Archroma’s Brand & Performance Textile Specialties business. “Kathmandu will surely inspire other brands and retailers to explore and adopt eco - advanced innovations. With the help of Kathmandu, Archroma is again showing the apparel industry the way to go, one collection at a time. Because it’s our nature!” “We have been using recycled materials for over 20 years and we are constantly looking for new technologies to develop more sustainable outdoor gear, adds Manu Rastogi, Textile R&D and Responsible Materials Manager for Kathmandu. “Dyeing techniques using plants have been around for centuries, but they require adding huge amounts of mordants* and fixatives**, which could lead to water pollution.

They also tend to have poor light and wash fastness which is undesirable for the consumer and does not promote article longevity. So when we heard about Archroma’s EarthColors, we were immediately excited by what is probably the first technology allowing colors to be synthesized from plants rather than petroleum while keeping similar performance.” Kathmandu selected Archroma and its EarthColors range of plant-based dyes to create a new capsule collection of the brand’s signature hoodie. (Photographs: Kathmandu) Archroma’s EarthColors is a line of patent-pending plant-based dyes, sourced from up to 100 percent renewable resources. (Photo: Archroma)

Kathmandu® Registered trademark
*alum, iron, copper, tin, chrome
** salt, tannings, vinegar

Emsdetten, Germany -  Award for the drapilux 235 03 article from the Boutique collection: the international expert judging panel for the German Design Award 2018 named the material the winner of the Home Textiles and Home Accessories category due to its outstanding design quality.

drapilux is one of the major textile manufacturers in Europe and a pioneer of intelligent functions. The German Design Award is recognition of the success achieved by drapilux in setting new benchmarks in design.

New fabric quality and stylish design

With the flame-retardant, opaque article, 235 03, drapilux – the commercial property furnishers which specialise in hospitality, healthcare and maritime – have brought a product to the market this year that can be used in hotels and care facilities, on ships or at home. New hotels, furnished in a themed and aspirational manner, are particularly fond of the modern pattern as it gives their properties a unique character.

The special feature of the drapilux 235 product series from the Boutique collection is the new quality of the materials used: “The coarse yarn provides the textiles with firm grip and is therefore well suited for bedspreads and upholstery”, explained Kirstin Herrmann, Head of drapilux Design Studio. ”The design of Article 235 from series no. 3 is reminiscent of cherry blossoms and has a natural and delicate appearance. The bright colours, however, are used sparingly to give the product a modern and trendy touch” she continued.

The fabric features drapilux akustik, a function which has a positive effect on the acoustics of a room. When ordering above a certain amount, all textiles can be delivered with intelligent finishes: drapilux air and drapilux bioaktiv actively improve the indoor climate and fight against germs and bacteria on the textile.

The Industry of the Future Alliance (AIF) has awarded Lectra with their ‘Showcase for the Industry of the Future’ label for demonstrating the criteria exemplarity, innovation and commitment. This certification is given to companies who have concretely developed a ground-breaking project to organize their production by leveraging the potential of digital.

The AIF bestowed Lectra with this distinction for its competitiveness concerning cost, quality and delivery times, all obtained thanks to a lean approach and reflection around the design of its products. Further, Lectra received the certification for its competitiveness regarding value, achieved thanks to mastering customer use from which new associated services have flowed. Since 2013, Lectra has invested €86 million in R&D, representing 9.4% of its revenues. This Investment has enabled Lectra to undergo a metamorphosis—based on methodological advances and fundamental technologies—increasing recruitment and growing competitiveness in all of its markets and geographical sectors.

With ten years’ experience in the industrial internet of things for cutting and expertise in software Solutions to automate and optimize design and product development, Lectra is in an unrivalled position to Support customers as they enter the ‘industry of the future’ era.

Pressure from certain shareholders to relocate manufacturing to China in 2005, triggered Lectra’s industrial project. Following risk analyses—the cost of transport for the European market, the turnover in qualified labor, uncertainty over patent rights and quality—Lectra decided to keep manufacturing in France. This choice was conditional on: disruptive innovation; upgrading; increased value to customers; and a rise in productivity.

The project was accompanied by a well-structured lean approach and organizational changes, which enabled Lectra to achieve the desired level of excellence in terms of productivity and competitiveness.

Some of the changes that took place thanks to this project are as follows: Growth in industrial performance due to an improvement in working conditions, with teams involved in the lean approach; Production engineers involved in creating awareness around factory constraints for a new offer as early as the design process. This co-design product/process optimizes global costs; Emphasis on product, process and logistics’ modularity with the latest possible integration of options (delayed differentiation). This enables logistics’ constraints to be taken into account as early as the engineering phase. Product modularity allows, for example, machines to be put in containers when they might otherwise require special heavy-goods transport.

Lectra’s factory improved its productivity rate by 18 points in three years, and has since maintained it at 89%. Costs have already reduced by 25% and the quality and level of service has improved. In terms of positioning, Lectra has confirmed its leadership in the high-end segment. Lectra has enriched its offer with end-to-end services and innovative, connected products whose embedded intelligence offers Smart Services, notably for predictive maintenance.

Lectra has leveraged more than 10 years of experience in connected manufacturing to offer Versalis®, an innovative digital solution designed to cut leather without compromise on quality. Featuring a powerful automatic nesting system for overall improvements in efficiency, the fully automated solution enables automotive leather suppliers to cut costs, improve productivity and minimize waste while also establishing a pathway to value-added Industry 4.0 processes.

Currently, almost 90% of leather used for automotive applications is cut using manual die presses, which require designers to build a physical prototype and finalize the design through trial and error. Lectra offers a fully digitalized leather solution from prototyping to cut parts—when used in combination with Lectra’s 3D prototyping and pattern-making software, Versalis digital leather cutting solution enables a 12-16 week reduction in development and launch cycles for vehicle seating models.
During the leather-cutting phase, the latest release of Versalis LeatherSuite allows automotive leather suppliers to achieve up to 15% greater productivity. Lectra’s end-to-end automotive leather offering furthermore guarantees optimal uptime through an extensive worldwide support network of field engineers and technical experts.
"Lectra focuses on a consultative approach that allows it to fully understand the customer’s needs before building a solution comprising software, hardware, consulting, training, and after-sales support,” said Frost & Sullivan Industry Analyst Kamalesh Mohanarangam. "Lectra’s equipment is fitted with more than 200 sensors that predict failure and immediately report issues to its call centres. This product feature and service has resulted in 98% uptime and very fast mean time to repair."

Although digital leather cutting solutions are an investment, leather cutters and Tier-1 suppliers have begun to recognize the value of these products. On average, Lectra’s solutions help customers achieve up to 7% savings on leather compared to manual die-press methods by minimizing human error and variability in the cutting room. A benchmark test of leather trim cutting for door panels demonstrated a 3.5% gain in material made possible by Versalis’ superior nesting capabilities compared to the customer’s yield using manual nesting with die press machines, representing potential savings of €9 million per year.
Versalis is the fruit of significant R&D investment for the company, which has always made re-investment of capital a priority. As part of a transformational plan, Lectra spent more than €50 million in investments between 2011 and 2015. With Lectra’s new strategy focusing on supporting their customers’ transition to Industry 4.0 standards, Lectra will increase the share of revenues dedicated to R&D to 10% for the period from 2017 to 2019, representing a rise of about 50% between 2016 and 2019.

C&A, one of Europe’s leading Fashion retailers has recently launched in its stores in 18 European markets the world’s first Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM Gold products. These recyclable t-shirts are made of 100% organic cotton, with safe materials and chemicals and produced in a socially and environmentally responsible way. They have been certified at gold level by the Cradle-to Cradle Product Innovation Institute (C2CPII). The dyes used in the coloration of the shirts, which are available in two styles and 17 colors, were selected from the range of DyStar Levafix® and Remazol® reactive dyes which received C2C Gold Level certification for Material Health from C2CPII in 2016.
With a selection of apparel dyes for the fashion industry awarded a Gold-level Material Health Certificate, the DyStar Group strives to be part of a more sustainable future and growing a circular economy as well as reaffirms its commitment to environmental and human health. The styles were developed in close partnership with Fashion for Good. Created with funds granted by founding partner C&A Foundation, Fashion for Good is a global partnership that unites apparel producers, retailers, non-profit organizations, innovators and funders in the shared ambition to transform the apparel industry into a circular one.

Composites use in Building and Construction will be highlighted at JEC newest event dedicated to this specific Composites Industry next month in Chicago, IL, USA. The numerous and diverse benefits that these innovative materials bring to the Building Industry will help overcome the coming challenges such as, urbanization, increase of natural disasters (floods, storms, tsunamis, earthquakes…), along with the decrease of non-renewable raw materials and the high standard levels set by the society in terms of lightness and fluidity. Composites Materials bring answers and opportunities to tackle those issues in sustainable, durable and reliable manners. Solutions like ease of fabrication (Owens Corning), structures durability (Biteam), anti-seismic reinforcement (DowAksa), use of end-of-life products such as recycled bottles of water (Premier Composites Technologies), aerial forms (Optima Projects Ltd) or again energy saving (Armageddon Energy).

Following its strategy to address every Composites End-user, the JEC Innovation Awards will reward these 6 Composites Innovators in Building & Construction that will change the way we build.
If the majority of submissions relied on glass fibers, which is common in the Construction field, we see an increased interest in carbon fibers, especially for structural applications. And similarly to all sectors of the composite industry, thermoplastics are gaining in importance in Construction. Therefore, to promote the growing use of composites as a construction material, 6 categories are awarded, covering a large panel of applications and possibilities.