From the Sector

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK will be exhibiting at ITMA 2023, taking place between 8-14 June Milan, Italy. FET has commissioned its biggest ever stand to reflect the company’s commitment to this event and the textile industry.

FET designs, develops and manufactures extrusion equipment for a wide range of high value textile material applications worldwide. Central to FET’s success has always been its ability to provide customers with advanced facilities and equipment, together with unrivalled knowledge and expertise in research and production techniques.

The new FET Fibre Development Centre will further improve this service, allowing clients to trial their own products in an ideal environment. Resident equipment in the Fibre Development Centre reflects the wide range of fibre extrusion systems offered by FET to clients worldwide and will enable continued growth of the company through innovation.  

For the first time at ITMA, the new FET Spunbond range will feature. This system provides opportunities for the scaled development of new nonwoven fabrics based on a wide range of fibres and polymers, including bicomponents. Recent customers to benefit from FET spunbond systems include the University of Leeds and an integrated metlblown / spunbond system at the University of Erlangen-Nuremberg in Germany.

FET’s established expertise remains in laboratory and pilot meltspinning equipment for a vast range of applications, such as precursor materials used in high value technical textiles, sportswear, medical devices and specialised novel fibres from exotic and difficult to process polymers. FET has successfully processed almost 30 different polymer types in multifilament, monofilament and non-woven formats, collaborating with specialist companies worldwide to promote greater sustainability through innovative manufacturing processes. Where melt spinning solutions are not suitable, FET provides a viable alternative with pilot and small scale production wet spinning systems.

A major theme at ITMA will again be sustainability. The FET range of laboratory and pilot extrusion lines is ideally suited for both process and end product development of sustainable materials. “This year we are celebrating FET’s 25th anniversary” says FET Managing Director Richard Slack “and we look forward to meeting customers at ITMA, where we can discuss their fibre technology needs.”

DyStar announces the plan to restructure its Ludwigshafen facility located in Germany. The strategic decision is made by the company in response to changing business conditions and market shifts.

Mr. Xu Yalin, Managing Director, and President of DyStar Group said, “This is an important strategic move for DyStar. We will focus on developing key emerging markets, which have been shifting over a decade. In the wake of higher energy costs and inflation, DyStar is determined to further improve cost efficiency and drive sustainable productivity as we continue to deliver the highest quality of innovative products that support the global supply chain.”

Mr. Eric Hopmann, Chief Commercial Officer of DyStar Group said, “The restructuring of this facility will be carried out in a phased manner. DyStar will diversify the production activity out of Europe and start with the reduction of manpower as a consequence. DyStar’s customers can be further assured of undisrupted supply, hence their production should not be affected as we will work closely to meet their specific requirements.”

The facility has been an integral part of DyStar’s global network. DyStar inherited this facility from their founders who started the Indigo research and manufacturing more than 125 years ago.

The acquisition of the automotive business of Borgers, announced in January 2023, has been completed with effect from April 1, 2023, following receipt of all antitrust approvals. As a result, Autoneum now operates 67 production facilities worldwide and employs around 16 100 people in 24 countries. With the acquisition of the long-established German company, Autoneum is further expanding its global market leadership in sustainable acoustic and thermal management of vehicles. For the planned capital increase of around CHF 100 million for the long-term financing of the acquisition, the shareholders approved the creation of a capital band.

The purchase agreement signed on January 6, 2023, to acquire the assets of the insolvent Borgers companies by Autoneum could be completed. As a result, Autoneum will take over the assets of the Borgers companies in Germany and the shares in the subsidiaries in France, Poland, Sweden, Spain, the Czech Republic, the United Kingdom and the USA as well as in the company in Shanghai, China, with effect from April 1, 2023. As already communicated, the enterprise value paid amounts to EUR 117 million.

The product and customer range of Borgers Automotive, the specialist for textile acoustics protection, insulation and trim for vehicles, ideally complements Autoneum’s sustainable product portfolio. Particularly with the wheel arch liner and trunk lining product lines as well as the truck business, Autoneum’s global presence offers further potential for profitable growth also outside Europe. In addition, Borgers has more than 150 years of experience in recycling textile materials. In the 2022 financial year, the Borgers Group – excluding the mechanical engineering division which was already sold in the summer of 2022 – generated expected annual revenue of around EUR 700 million and employed around 4 500 employees worldwide. Autoneum has agreed new pricing and delivery terms with Borgers’ customers, which will ensure both sustainable profitability and the further development of technologies and processes.

From April 1, the former Borgers sites in Germany will be part of Autoneum Germany GmbH, which has been in existence for many years. The other subsidiaries worldwide will gradually be renamed Autoneum.

• Harmful PFAS chemicals, used in thousands of consumer products, are shaping up to be the big environmental and health threat of our time. The EU is now the first in the world to propose a broad ban on these chemicals.
• Consumer brands worth more than €130 billion support the ban on PFAS.  
• Investors with assets in PFAS-producing companies are calling for an end to production.

Many companies are taking a stand against PFAS chemicals as the EU invites the public to give its opinions on the proposed ban on these harmful chemicals.

108 companies dedicated to phasing out PFAS chemicals from products and processes have joined the PFAS Movement, an advocacy campaign initiated by environmental NGO ChemSec that calls for comprehensive regulation of PFAS in the EU. The members comprise many well-known brands, such as Inditex, Urbanears and the Cookware Company, representing various industries— fashion, home goods, food, and personal care. The members are worth more than €130 billion in total revenue.

“A European ban on PFAS chemicals will have huge repercussions for all manufacturing industries and require much work for companies in the global supply chain. However, some parts of the industry oppose this ban, claiming that the change is too big to be justified. That’s why the support for a ban from such influential consumer brands as those in the PFAS Movement is so important. It’s a strong sign that businesses want to eliminate PFAS chemicals in products and processes”, says Anne-Sofie Bäckar, Executive Director at ChemSec.

A Hollywood Helping Hand
ChemSec’s PFAS Movement is not only supported by the brands but also by Hollywood actor Mark Ruffalo who became a PFAS activist after his involvement in the film Dark Waters. The film depicts the real-life events following the massive uncovering of PFAS contamination in the USA. As a result, several PFAS producers in the USA are now involved in multimillion-dollar lawsuits.

The health and environmental threats of PFAS, along with all the lawsuits, have also created attention among another influential group: institutional investors. Last year, 47 institutional investors with US$8 trillion in assets sent a letter to 54 chemical companies named by ChemSec, calling for them to halt the production of persistent “forever chemicals”.

The EU ban on PFAS
The proposed EU ban on PFAS is extensive and the first of its kind worldwide. The idea was initially initiated by Sweden, Denmark, the Netherlands, Germany and Norway, who have spent almost three years mapping the implications of a ban on PFAS chemicals in a dossier that expands over nearly 2000 pages. The proposal shows, among other things, that the emissions of PFAS were 75 000 tonnes in 2020. If this continues, the emissions are expected to sit at 4.4 million tonnes in 30 years. The emissions originate from the production and use of the many products that contain PFAS; furniture, cosmetics, electronics and many more.

• Iconic 200 Series fleece to be the first fabric made from this new process.

Polartec®, a Milliken & Company brand, announces Polartec® Shed Less Fleece, a new milestone in its industry-leading efforts to reduce textile fiber fragment shedding. Shed Less is a process that combines yarn construction, knitting, chemistry, and manufacturing to reduce home laundry fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85%. The first fabric to receive this new technology is the brand’s iconic Polartec® 200 Series Fleece, the modern version of the original PolarFleece® launched in 1981, and in 1993, the first performance fleece knit from yarn made from recycled plastic bottles.

The Shed Less process works by engineering the lofted fibers that give fleece its soft hand the ability to resist breaking and rubbing off during home laundering, cited as one contributing factor to the spread of fibers fragments (commonly referred to as microfibers). Polartec® Shed Less Fleece achieves this while maintaining all of the attributes that continue to make Polartec fleece a staple of midlayer collections - lightweight, breathable and warm.

The brand used the AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) TM212-2021 test method for fiber fragment release during home laundering. This test was conducted with large sample sizes to account for variability. The testing concluded that Shed Less Fleece reduced fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85% compared to the baseline fabric.

“In 2016 we began looking into how we might test for fiber loss because there wasn’t a lot of research on the issue.” said Aimee LaValley, Polartec Textile Development, Dye and Chemistry Manager. “This led to new products like Polartec Power Air™, new manufacturing processes, as well as our participation in the TextileMission workgroup to study the issue on an interdisciplinary basis.”

TextileMission was a three year collaborative initiative of academia and industry to reduce the impact of textile microplastics funded by the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research. Founding partners include The Association of the German Sporting Goods Industry, Hochschule Niederrhein - University of Applied Science; TU Dresden - Institute of Water Chemistry; Vaude Sport; WWF Germany; Adidas AG; Henkel AG; Miele & CIE; and Polartec, LLC.

Polartec® Shed Less Fleece will be initially launched in the United States and will be available to customers beginning March 1, 2023. The brand plans to apply the Shed Less process to many other industry-leading fabric platforms and manufacturing facilities around the world.

Avgol®, a manufacturer of high-performance nonwoven fabric solutions, will use this month’s FILTECH exhibition in Germany to showcase its latest developments in using Algaeing™’s patented algae bio-based formulations for colorants and fibers.

Together with its sister companies from Indorama Ventures Limited (‘IVL’), Avgol will be presenting biotransformation capable fibers and meltblown for diversified end-use markets at the event from 14-16 February. Avgol will discuss with visitors how this new technology and the company’s biotransformative products can help businesses achieve their 2030 sustainability goals.

Algaeing’s technologies utilize various sustainably sourced, vertically farmed algae species to produce a wide range of appealing colors, many of which replicate the colors used in nonwoven fabrics today.

“The benefits of using an algae bio-source go far beyond the removal of chemically synthesized colorants, and include synergistic benefits of vastly reduced water consumption, chemical and fertilizer use, and carbon dioxide emissions,” says Avgol CEO Tommi Bjornman. “We will be demonstrating to FILTECH visitors that following an extensive development path, the fibers both absorb and retain a range of colors - such as vibrant greens and blues – and that we can even deliver a ‘heathered’ appearance for a more natural looking material, all without affecting the filtration, barrier quality or feel of the final product.”

• Style3D is sole shareholder of Assyst
• Integration of both product lines from 3D design to production
• Assyst remains independent within Style3D

Assyst GmbH is as of now part of Style3D. The German fashion technology market leader and the leading 3D software company are joining forces. For Assyst customers and partners nothing will change.
 
Die Assyst GmbH betreibt ihre Geschäfte weiterhin eigenständig, entwickelt alle ihre Produkte weiter und strebt mit Style3D eine gemeinsame, durchgängige Produktwelt an. Der erste gemeinsame Auftritt des Assyst-Style3D-Teams findet bereits auf der Assyst Experience im Rahmen der Munich Fabric Start (24.-26. Januar 2023) statt.

Assyst will continue to operate its business independently and to develop, sell, and service all its existing products. Style3D and Assyst will start to integrate their products into a universal, seamless product world. The Assyst-Style3D team will make its first joint appearance already at the end of January at the Assyst Experience at Munich Fabric Start (24-26 January 2023).

Both companies are deeply rooted in apparel development and production: Style3D in Asia and Assyst in EMEA. Together, they are planning to create a global product offering for producers and brands that covers the entire apparel value chain from development to production and the various sales touchpoints.

Starting point will be the integration of the flagship products of both companies – Style3D and Assyst.CAD. Style3D is currently the most advanced 3D fashion design software with a high growth rate globally. While Assyst is market leader with its 2D CAD technology in Germany, Austria, Italy and Switzerland and offers a seamless software portfolio from 2D and 3D CAD to production (Automarker) and to all sales touchpoints.

Major driver of the merger is the companies’ complimentary technology offering and the vision to create a seamless digital process from providing digital fabric and accessories up to the realization of products.

The merger also strengthens Assyst's competitive position in the 3D design sector. Style3D, in turn, will benefit from Assyst's expertise in the development, CAD and digital simulation of apparel products and the access to the international market.

Looking ahead to the future, both parties will offer 2D-based & 3D-based one-stop solutions for business clients leveraging on their global tech base and complementary serviceable resource dominance. On January 24-26, the Assyst-Style3D team will meet clients and present its products at the Assyst Experience at Munich Fabric Start.

The Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH announces the programme for the upcoming editions of MUNICH FABRIC START (24 to 26 January 2023) and BLUEZONE & KEYHOUSE (24 and 25 January 2023).
From 24 to 26 January 2023, visitors can expect a range of the latest trends, fabric, accessories and denim highlights from around 900 international exhibitors, an event programme with expert panels, keynotes and trend lectures, as well as numerous networking opportunities.

Economic Environment
Conflicts, inflation, recession, energy crisis, massive inequality, climate change - how companies can position themselves securely in a volatile market environment - this is deciphered by trend analyst David Shah in his key note "Self-Empowerment" and numerous industry experts, futurologists and leading fashion editors in the lecture series "The Status Quo of Fashion" by strategy and communication consultants Alex Vogt and Jana Kern.

Next to David Shah (View-Publications), the panel will include Siems Luckwaldt (CAPITAL and BUSINESS PUNK, RTL Germany), Shamin Vogel (WeAr Global Magazine), Ben Hanson (The Interline), Maria Cristina Pavarini (The SPIN OFF) and Carl Tillessen (DMI)

Digital Era
From digital colour apps, digital twins and virtual models to 3D simulation and virtual dressing rooms - the world of digital fashion will not only be discussed in numerous lectures in Munich, but also brought to life in the new Assyst Experience. Whether it's Carola Seybold, Head of Global Key Accounts at Pantone, Jan Hilger from Roland Berger, Arndt Johannes from Verce, Dr. Stefan Hauswiesner, CEO of Reactive Reality or the experts of the panel "Textilfabrik X.0 - New Marketing Buzz Words or One Step Ahead": everyone will be looking at virtual fashion from a different angle and providing insights into the latest state of the art. In her trend presentation "The weird & wonderful world of fashion cores" at BLUEZONE, Angela Velasquez (Rivet) sheds light on how viral TikTok trends are reshaping denim merchandising.

Sustainable Future
Digitisation and sustainability - the third major theme of the event programme - could not be more closely intertwined. Lisa Lang, Director of Policy & EU Affairs Orchestrator of EIT Climate KIC in an interview with Muchaneta ten Napel (Shape Innovate) kicks things off about the importance of a green transformation for the industry. Other topics in focus: Liv Simpliciano from Fashion Revolution gives an overview of where the world's biggest fashion brands and retailers stand in terms of transparency. Tricia Carey from Renewcell, David Shah (View-Publications), Lien van der Schueren and Guy Buyle (CISUTAC & HEREWEAR), Mateusz Wielopolski (Circulix) and Mario Malzacher (Circular.Fashion) critically discuss whether the circular economy is really the solution for everything or just a placebo. Circular ecosystems are also presented by Franziska von Becker from Hachmeister & Partner.

The race of the new sustainable materials of the future will be opened by Kirsi Terho from Infinited Fiber, Kuben Edwards from Onezero8, Marianne Uddman from Trustrace and Simon Angel, Sustainable Innovations Curator of MUNICH FABRIC START in a panel discussion with Muchaneta ten Napel (Shape Innovate). New products for a sustainable future in the denim industry will be discussed at BLUEZONE.
Another highlight: In cooperation with the Transformers Foundation, an expert panel will also be held at BLUEZONE on both days of the trade show.

Trends Spring.Summer 2024
Gerd Müller-Thomkins, Carl Tillessen and Niels Holger Wien from the Deutsches Mode Institut (DMI) see a "vibe shift" - a turning point. They will analyse what this means for fashion in their trend presentation on Wednesday. The Women's Fashion Trends SS 24 with the must haves of the season will be analysed by Karin Schmitz from the Trend Forecast Institute Peclers Paris - from the glamorous appearance in everyday life, to the play with gender identity, to simplicity combined with functionality and mobility.

Society and the economy are facing existential challenges. In addition to the consequences of climate change, these include the realisation that energy and many resources are no longer available in the usual quantities, so that their efficiency must be significantly increased in the short term. Lightweight construction, especially with fibre composite materials, can and will make an important contribution here, e.g. in wind power plants or hydrogen storage systems. As an umbrella organisation, Composites Germany represents the capabilities and interests of the German fibre composite industry. With the re-entry of Composites United, Composites Germany will combine the forces of the two leading composites networks in Germany and its position will be significantly strengthened. Changed framework conditions make the re-entry possible and necessary.

VDMA and Leichtbau BW will continue to support the work of Composites Germany as associate members and contribute the know-how of their members. Together, the organisations will promote sustainable lightweight construction as a key technology for Germany, focusing on composites materials, says Prof. Klaus Drechsler of Composites United, one of the two board members of Composites Germany. As a network and mouthpiece of the composites industry, Composites Germany bundles the interests of its members. The aim is to continuously expand activities, promote innovations and technologies, develop new markets and new value chains, and anchor training and further education, adds his board colleague Dr Michael Effing of AVK. The agreement was concluded on 29 November 2022 during the JEC Forum DACH in Augsburg, where both associations were cooperation partners of the event.

With the aim of increasing the use of post-consumer fibers in textiles, TEXAID launches a white tote bag. The fabric is a mixture of 50% used textile waste collected by TEXAID in Switzerland and Germany. At TEXAID's largest sorting facility in Apolda, Germany, white cotton textiles that can no longer be worn were sorted out and later spun, woven, and manufactured in Italy. Plastic waste makes up the other 50%. Unifi rescued this ocean-bound plastic waste and recycled it into fiber.

The cotton material was transformed into a fiber by Marchi & Fildi in Biella, IT, which was then spun into a yarn using recycled cotton and recycled polyester fibers. This yarn was woven into textile by Tessitura Casoni.T.F.C.. The care label and flag label were produced by the German company Bornemann-Etiketten GmbH, and an NFC chip from circular.fashion was also integrated into the product. All components were then assembled into this bag in Tuscany by benefit company Alisea Srl Società Benefit with their partner Paimex SRL and also screen printed with our design on it.

This NFC chip is a circularity.IDⓇ digital product passport, developed by the Berlin-based company, circular.fashion. By scanning the NFC chip on the bag with a cell phone, customers are redirected to the circularity.IDⓇ product platform. On this platform, they can find further information on the supply chain as well as instructions on how to refurbish or return the bag for proper recycling. Through this digital product passport, a total transparency over the entire bag production is enabled and for customers it is an easy and quick way to get the information they need.

The chip also allows the manual sorters to getthe product information much faster to make a better sorting decision, e.g. the fiber composition. For this purpose, circular.fashion's intelligent sorting stations are used to scan the chip. Several of these stations have been installed at TEXAID's sorting facility in Apolda, Germany, to facilitate optimized reuse and recycling decisions and ensure another life for the product or fiber.