From the Sector

• On October, 20th, 2020, the State Prize for Innovation was awarded to the Lenzing Group for their LENZING™ Web Technology.
• Lenzing thus received the highest award for particularly innovative achievements in Austria.

Lenzing – On Tuesday, October 20, 2020, the Lenzing Group was awarded the coveted “State Prize for Innovation”. Lenzing emerged as the winner with its project LENZING™ Web Technology and thus received the highest recognition for particularly innovative achievements in Austria. The novel process combines fiber and nonwovens production in only one step, setting new standards in terms of efficiency, circularity and ecological sustainability. Margarete Schramböck, Federal Minister for Digital and Economic Affairs, presented the award to Gert Kroner, Vice President Global Research & Development.

“This award is a great recognition of our work. Our goal is to grow continuously with sustainable innovations and to look beyond our fibers, to the needs of our customers and partners and to the needs of consumers worldwide. With the LENZING™ Web Technology we have created an exciting and promising solution for eco-friendly products in line with our corporate strategy sCore TEN and support consumers in their daily needs in a sustainable way”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group.

Biodegradable nonwovens for a clean environment

The pollution of the environment by plastics is one of the most urgent problems of our time. Every day, millions of hygiene products and wipes around the globe end up in garbage and sewage. Most of them consist of up to 80 percent polyester or other fossil, non-biodegradable materials and therefore pollute the environment. With the LENZING™ Web Technology, Lenzing has developed a patented technology to counter this problem: Sustainable and eco-friendly nonwovens are produced from the renewable raw material wood. These are not only plastic-free, they also score points for their particularly high environmental friendliness. “Thanks to a unique self-bonding mechanism, in which the filaments bond with each other during the spinning process, binders, which are found in many nonwovens, are no longer needed. As a result, the nonwovens produced with LENZING™ Web Technology are 100 percent biodegradable and do not pollute either humans or the environment”, says Gert Kroner, Vice President Global Research & Development of the Lenzing Group.

The Austrian State Prize for Innovation is awarded annually by the Federal Ministry for Digital and Economic Affairs to the most innovative Austrian company. In 2020, the competition took place for the 40th time.

Over 300 brands have spent three months showcasing their offerings at the world’s first digital trade show. PREMIUM+SEEK Passport, in collaboration with JOOR, provided the industry with a digital addition to the physical trade shows that were unable to take place at all this summer, due to the current situation. The virtual event concluded yesterday.

Summary
“The event was a success: it reached a network of 200,000 buyers, logged over 20,000 visits, and over 80,000 products were sold. The brands that achieved especially good results were those that engaged their own buyer contacts and networks and introduced them to the platform. Things are actually the same as always, the principle remains the same. Success doesn't just happen by itself,” says Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP. “There was a strong focus on communicative value at this digital event. We feel that creating visibility for new potential brands and customers is the best thing we can do to add value for our customers in the current situation. We have worked intensively on how we position ourselves in this crisis, which services we can deliver, and how we can offer our customers and partners support of lasting relevance.”

Outlook
It is not yet possible to announce a final, definitive decision on the PREMIUM GROUP’s January events. The market analysis carried out with exhibitors, partners and retailers is currently being evaluated. The current developments in the number of infections and forecasts by the Federal Government also have an influence on this. These provide reliable data that can serve as the basis for a well-informed and representative assessment of whether and how the trade shows and conferences will be able to take place. Further information on the PREMIUM GROUP events will follow at the end of October.
    
What is certain is that, for the first time, the PREMIUM GROUP and Messe Frankfurt will be putting on their SEEK, PREMIUM, FASHIONTECH, Neonyt and FashionSustain events – along with a host of other highlights – from 6-8 July 2021 as part of Frankfurt Fashion Week 2021. New business platforms, glamorous events, innovative formats and content hubs will be unveiled to the fashion industry – not just in a new setting, but in a totally new guise.

“When it comes to working on new developments, we always start from new ideas and the constant research that starts from a concept that becomes reality, by increasingly raising the bar of sustainability” said Alice Tonello, R&D and Marketing Director of Tonello. “The research for technologies and solutions have always been part of our DNA, is a daily commitment to the environment, the market, our people and all human beings with their needs.  Based on this vision, two revolutionary patent-pending process, are born, Wake and OBleach, that allow to create incredible and totally responsible effects on garments” continued Alice Tonello.

This is how The Laundry (R)Evolution was born: a radically new conception thought to simplify and optimize the entire garment finishing process.

It involves only 2 technologies in the entire finishing cycle, reducing waste and optimizing resources: LaserBlaze, and The All-in-One-System. Metro is used, a software that processes real data, in real time to check all laundry consumption, optimizing processing times and improving performance.

The All-in-One System performs all washing operations by integrating 4 sustainable technologies into a single machine: ECOfree 2, which uses ozone in both the water and air; NoStone® for authentic and pumice-free stone-wash effects; UP, for washing processes with at least 50% less water; Core, a nebulizing system improving performance and reducing water consumption.

In terms of effects, the latest results of the Laundry (R)evolution are OBleach and Wake.

OBleach is the new Tonello patent-pending process which, by using only ozone, “returns to the future” with an authentic, sustainable and cool Bleach.

Wake is the first totally natural dyeing system. In fact, it uses only plants and vegetable waste, organic items like flowers, berries and roots left to dry and infuse, without harmful chemicals additives.

Tonello will be live during DenimsandJeans Virtual Show on October 14th and 15th.

EFI™ Reggiani, a leading developer and manufacturer of cutting-edge technologies and sustainable solutions for the textile industry, will take part in the World Textile Information Network (WTiN) Innovate Textile & Apparel Virtual Trade Show from October 15 to 30.

Like many industry groups around the world that have begun re-thinking tradeshows out of concern for public health, WTiN launched the tradeshow as an online event designed to reconnect innovation in the value chain.

EFI Reggiani textile solutions to be featured at the event include a complete range of digital and analogue printers and pre- and post-treatment lines. Plus, the event’s display of EFI Reggiani technologies will also feature one of the industry’s broadest line-ups of high-end, superior-quality textile inks, together with short, sustainable processes – such as pigment and direct sublimation printing – as well as greener, eco-friendly denim dyeing solutions.

During the Innovate tradeshow, EFI Reggiani will also take part in the 20 October “Clash of the Titans” roundtable chaired by WTiN, which will bring together industry leaders to debate the future of textile inkjet printing.

During the Innovate Textile & Apparel (ITA) virtual textile machinery show which will run from October 15th-30th 2020, Monforts will be emphasising its leadership position in three key fields – advanced coating, denim finishing and fabric sanforizing.

With its multi-head capability, the latest Monforts texCoat coating system provides flexibility with an unprecedented range of options and a wide range of modules available.

Refinements
“Since we acquired the coating technology that our systems are based on we have made a lot of refinements and all of them are reflected in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics,” says Monforts Head of Technical Textiles, Jürgen Hanel.
“Our systems have the shortest fabric path from the coating unit into the stenter and we have all variations of coating application systems too – and all of these options are available in wider widths, with the engineering and manufacturing from a single source here in Europe.”

CYD
Denim finishing is meanwhile a field in which Monforts has an undisputed lead and it has been working closely with its many partners in the key denim manufacturing countries of Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Mexico Pakistan and Turkey to develop advanced solutions. The latest of these is the CYD yarn dyeing system.
“CYD is based on the proven Econtrol® dyeing system for fabrics*,” explains Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski. “It integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparatory processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – in order to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. The CYD system has been developed in response to a very strong market demand.”

Pre-shrinking
Monforts has also recently delivered a significant number of its latest Monfortex sanforizing lines to customers around the world.
Sanforizing is vital to final fabric quality, pre-shrinking it by compressing prior to washing, to limit any residual or further shrinkage in a made-up finished garment to less than 1%, for perfect comfort and fit over an extended lifetime.

As with industry-leading Montex stenters, Monfortex lines benefit from the latest Qualitex 800 control system which allows all parameters to be easily automated via the 24-inch colour touchscreen, including production speed, control of all fabric feed devices, rotation spray or steaming cylinder options, the width of the stretching field and the rubber belt pressure. Up to 10,000 separate process parameter records can be generated and stored by the data manager.

*Econtrol® is a registered mark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.

The corona pandemic continues to put a strain on health systems around the globe. Many places lack effective textile protective kit among others for their medical personnel. HeiQ, a Swiss specialty chemicals company, has developed antiviral and antibacterial protective kit that is quickly effective against Coronaviruses (229E), as confirmed in wide-ranging studies. In cooperation with HeiQ, the CHT Group is supplying this technology to the market to help decrease the global shortage in protective wear.

A wide number of studies have proven that viruses and bacteria can remain active on textile surfaces for a longer period. The SARS-COV-2 virus, which causes the COVID-19 disease, can stay active on a textile for up to two days and therefore be infectious. Shortages in textile protective kit create a high risk for medical personnel who are in contact with COVID-19 patients: often, doctors and nurses cannot change their protective masks and clothing as frequently as would be necessary in order to adhere to hygiene rules and to prevent the spreading of the virus.

The HeiQ Viroblock NPJ03 that has been developed by HeiQ is a new technology that is also effective against Coronaviruses (229E) thanks to its antibacterial and antiviral properties. Comprehensive studies have demonstrated the kit‘s effectiveness. A combination of silver salts with a vesicle technology deactivates bacteria and viruses on textile surfaces within a few minutes and renders the bacteria and viruses harmless. Textiles equipped in this way reduce the rate of infection by 99.99%, which stops the transmission and the spread of bacteria and viruses through textiles.

Viroblock can be used on all types of fibers – not only for protective kit and masks, but also for work clothing, bed linen, towels and home textiles. The kit is wash-resistant and still highly effective after 30 standard wash processes.

Tests conducted by independent laboratories have now confirmed that a treatment with Sanitized® T 99-19 and Sanitized® T 11-15 reduces the viral load on PES textiles by up to 99 %.

Swiss company SANITIZED AG celebrates validation from impartial labs that Sanitized®T 99-19 and Sanitized®T 11-15 are also effective against viruses (in accordance with ISO 18184:2019).
Tests were performed using a feline coronavirus with structures and mechanisms reminiscent of SARS-Cov2.

Patented technology featuring an ammonium silicate compound is employed in Sanitized®T 99-19 and Sanitized®T 11-15 utilizes tried and tested silver technology. These additives are the perfect tool for an antiviral and antibacterial treatment of face masks, protective professional medical clothing, bed linens, or mattresses.
The formulation of both products remains completely untouched, thus ensuring that it will continue to offer outstanding protection against bacteria.

Before a final product’s antiviral properties can be publicly promoted, viral tests must be performed in specialized laboratories. Compliance with local legal regulations is essential here. SANITIZED AG explicitly points out that this is standard procedure and has composed a preliminary Guide for Treating PPE

SANITIZED AG has been supporting the work of hygienists in hospitals, doctor’s offices, nursing and care facilities for many years with its antimicrobial - and now also antiviral - additives used to enhance the
functionality of textiles and polymers. The reduction of bacteria and viruses is a feasible way to help stem the spread of infections including MRSA.

Diverging development in the two business units impact fiscal year 2019 of SGL Carbon – Group guidance for 2020 confirmed

• Consolidated sales revenues in fiscal year 2019 up by 4 percent to around 1.1 billion euros
• Consolidated recurring EBIT down by 25 percent to 48 million euros; record results of graphite specialities business did not fully compensate for the weak development in the carbon fiber business
• Composites – Fibers & Materials (CFM): Cyclical und structural weaknesses impact the result of the market segments Wind Energy, Textile Fibers and Industrial Applications, which have limited strategic significance in the medium term
• Graphite Materials & Systems (GMS): Sales and earnings on record level due to strong growth in the market segments Semiconductors and Automotive
• Non-cash impairment charge of around 75 million euros was recorded at CFM in the third quarter of 2019
• Free cash flow significantly improved
• Issue of a new corporate bond and early redemption of the 2015/2020 convertible bond has significantly improved the maturity profile
• SGL Carbon confirms guidance for fiscal year 2020: sales expected slightly below previous year; recurring EBIT approximately 10 to 15 percent below previous year level
• Dr. Michael Majerus, Spokesman of the Board of Management of SGL Carbon: “The financial development of the fiscal year 2019 conceals the fact that our strategic orientation is correct. This is evident from our growth and the increasing number of contracts and projects we acquired in our strategic core markets. Main drivers are the topics of sustainable mobility and energy as well as digitization. Therefore, we expect that we can grow our consolidated revenue by a mid to high single-digit percentage per year on average between 2020 and 2024.“

The fiscal year 2019 developed very differently in the two business units of SGL Carbon. The record results in the graphite specialities business could not fully compensate for the weak development in the market segments Wind Energy, Textile Fibers and Industrial Applications in the carbon fiber business. Group sales grew by 4 percent to 1.1 billion euros. Recurring Group EBIT declined by 25 percent to 48 million euros. Due to the ongoing weakness in the market segments Textile Fibers and Industrial Applications the business unit CFM recorded a non-cash impairment loss of 75 million euros in the third quarter of 2019. With minus 90 (prior year: plus 41) million euros, consolidated Group result declined significantly compared to last year’s good results. The Group confirms its guidance for 2020 published in October 2019.

Group sales are expected to decline slightly compared to the prior-year level, whereas Group recurring EBIT is expected to reach a result around 10 to 15 percent below the prior-year level. Consolidated net result of the Group in 2020 should strongly improve compared to prior-year level to a low double-digit loss.

To Accelerate Public-Private Cooperation in Supply Chain Transparency

Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) has joined the first neutral and public traceability platform capable of visualising blockchain-based supply chain data from multiple companies and sources. It aims to help businesses across industries respond to consumer demands for ethical and environmentally friendly products.
The neutral and safe space for collaboration is provided by the World Economic Forum and created in collaboration with Everledger, Lenzing Group, TextileGenesis™, and the International Trade Centre. APR will contribute to Phase 2 of the initiative which seeks to incorporate more data sources.

“APR has started harnessing the potential of enterprise blockchain technology to enable customers to trace finished products back to the plantation forest origins on a smartphone app. To be able now to connect our data to other similar industry initiatives is a natural next step for APR, as is extending the benefits of our upstream traceability to the rest of the textile value chain.

Enhancing Follow Our Fibre with New Mill Sustainability Dashboard

Launched in mid-2019, APR’s blockchain-based Follow Our Fibre allows customers and stakeholders to scan its viscose product with a user-friendly app to access data that traces the product’s journey from plant nursery to viscose manufacturing and on to seaports. In October 2019, APR announced a collaboration with TrusTrace to integrate Follow Our Fibre with the latter’s T-Trace module. This helps connect APR’s upstream data to downstream textile value chain actors such as yarn and fabric customers and fashion brands.

More recently, a sustainability dashboard tracking key mill environmental performance indicators has been added to Follow Our Fibre. The dashboard presents APR’s performance in its first year of operations where a baseline has been established for quarterly tracking, reporting and continuous improvement.
The performance indicators follow key industry standards being set by ZDHC for Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF), as well as the European Union Best Available Technologies (EU BAT).

Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG will be providing information on its extensive range of coating and finishing technologies for the production of nonwovens and technical textiles at the forthcoming Techtextil India exhibition.

“India is already a very important market for Monforts and there are exciting prospects ahead for Indian manufacturers of technical textiles, who are well positioned to capitalise on growth opportunities,” says Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski, who will be at the Monforts stand in Hall 4, booth C52 at the show. “India has one of the largest working-age populations in the world and a complete textile value chain for both natural and synthetic fibres.”

In addition, he adds, India’s government, through its Ministry of Textiles, has been actively promoting the growth of technical textiles through various programmes based on investment promotion, subsidies, the creation of infrastructure and the stimulation of consumption.

As a result, India’s Ministry of Textiles is forecasting that the growth of technical textiles in the country will be over 18% annually in the next few years, from a value of US$16.6 billion in 2018 to US$28.7 billion in 2021.

Value addition

High value-added technical products such as wide-width digital printing substrates, carbon fabrics for high-performance composites, filter media, flame retardant barrier fabrics and heavy-duty membranes are now being coated on Monforts texCoat ranges and finished with the company’s industry-leading Montex stenters.

“Since we acquired the technology that our coating units are based on in 2015, we have made a lot of refinements,” says Hans. “All of these developments are reflected in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics. At the same time, our latest multi-functional coating heads offer an unprecedented range of options, with a wide range of modules available.”

The texCoat user interface is now equipped with the unique Monforts visualisation system and the magnetic doctor blade has greater power reserves. Options include a carbon fibre-reinforced composite coating drum with a more scratch-resistant surface and maximum rigidity and remote control which simplifies exact adjustment for the operator.

Montex stenters in special executions are meanwhile ideal for the drying and finishing of both technical woven fabrics and nonwovens and characterised by high stretching devices in both length and width.

“The European-built Montex range of stenters has earned its leading position in the technical textiles market due to the overall robustness, reliability and economy of these machines,” Hans concludes. “Whatever the intended end-product – and we continue to discover potentially new areas in which technical textiles can be utilised all the time – we have the machine specification and know-how to turn ideas into reality. In India we also benefit from the strong sales and service support of A.T.E. Enterprises.”

Texchtextil India takes place alongside World of Composites at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai from November 20-22.