From the Sector

• “Natural Materials: The Path Towards Brand Responsibility” Panel Discussion Comes to Functional Fabric Fair in NYC

As global regulations and increased customer concern drive the demand for sustainable products, forward thinking brands are increasingly turning to natural materials as a sustainable alternative.

This panel will spotlight how newer biomass-based textiles are complementing established materials like down and wool to not only enhance performance but also to meet evolving consumer demands for eco-friendly products.

Hosted by textile industry communications agency Formidable Media and scheduled for Tuesday, July 16, this panel will provide an inside look at how natural materials can be leveraged to grow brand responsibility while elevating textile performance.

The discussion will feature insights from leaders in sustainability and textile innovation, exploring the opportunities and challenges in adopting natural materials within supply chains. Attendees can expect a deep dive into the latest advancements and best practices that are shaping the future of responsible sourcing and manufacturing in the textile sector.

Panelists include:

• Matthew Betcher, Creative Director, ALLIED Feather + Down
• Monica Ebert, Business Development and Sustainability, Manager, Woolmark
• Sharon Perez, Senior Business Development Manager, Lenzing Group
• Chad Kelly, President, eVent Fabrics

TradeBeyond, a provider of supply chain solutions, has announced its latest AI-powered innovation, its PO Line Risk Rating. This toolset revolutionizes quality management and risk assessment by leveraging artificial intelligence to analyze thousands of historical data points, providing businesses with accuracy and efficiency in managing their supply chain’s quality risks.

Part of TradeBeyond’s Pivot88 platform, its PO Line Risk Rating functionality uses advanced machine learning algorithms to continuously improve risk assessments for quality failures. By employing predictive analytics to evaluate multiple risk factors such as product type, materials used, country of origin and many others, the system assigns a percentage risk score to each purchase order line, indicating the likelihood of quality issues or delays. This allows businesses to proactively identify and address high-risk PO lines.

This functionality provides critical insights and reporting on the most significant risk factors affecting each PO line. Risk ratings are displayed as part of users’ existing workflows, enabling better planning and prioritization of inspections and audits. Customizable risk thresholds allow quality managers to set their own parameters for risk levels, ensuring that resources are allocated effectively and strategically.

The 2nd Textiles Innovation Conference held by KARL MAYER North America proved to be a complete success. The trade event took place from June 25 to 27, 2024 at the headquarters of the KARL MAYER GROUP subsidiary in Greensboro, North Carolina. The conference boasted a turnout with over 200 attendees, exhibitors, and keynote speakers. While the majority hailed from many states across the USA, the event also attracted a global audience, including participants from Italy, Canada, Mexico, and other countries. The central theme: the importance of textiles made in the USA, their value and influence on global markets.

The conference brought together leading industry brands and academic institutions to delve into the future of product development and sustainability in textiles. KM.ON, Black Swan, Meta, and Supreme shared a convergence of ideas, challenges, and groundbreaking advancements shaping the textile landscape. NC State and Kent State universities highlighted their efforts in developing local talent and enhancing research capabilities to meet industry demand for regional supply chains. Manufacturing Solutions Center, Southern Textile Association, and AFFOA (Advanced Functional Fabrics of America) explored research capabilities and technology testing to foster funding opportunities and generate ideas for the future.

The recipe for success also included a lecture program. The conference kicked off with a keynote speech from New Balance, a brand that empowers people through sport and craftsmanship. New Balance MADE U.S., their premium collection manufactured domestically, reflects their commitment to quality and community impact. On day two Kenny Wilsey, Sourcing Director at Dillard’s, shared his expertise to ensure adherence to quality standards and social compliance requirements for private label brands. To complete the speaker series, Allison Hicks, Lead Knit Engineer at Under Armour, inspired attendees with her innovative approach to performance footwear, apparel, and accessories.

Important topics at the conference were sustainability and digitalization: Unifi showcased high-performance fibers made from recyclable materials and pre- or post-consumer waste management initiatives. KM.ON, the digital solution company of the KARL MAYER GROUP, displayed artificial intelligence applications for quality control, supply chain optimization, and predictive maintenance for warp knitting and knitwear production.

The Textile Innovation Conference program was rounded out by an exhibition of selected textile supply chain partners. These business partners supplemented the information about innovation presented in the lectures and performance demonstrations of the latest STOLL flat knitting and KARL MAYER warp knitting machines.

CARBIOS and Zhink Group, specializing in two global industries, PET and textiles, announce the signing of a joint Letter of Intent to build a biorecycling plant in China using CARBIOS’ revolutionary enzymatic depolymerization technology to serve the global market. This agreement officializes collaboration towards a long-term partnership in view of a first licensing contract to build a plant with a minimum annual processing capacity of 50k tons of prepared PET waste and would contribute to accelerating a circular economy for plastic and textiles. China is a key market for CARBIOS, and this agreement would establish a presence in this dominant market.

With 67 million tons of PET produced annually, representing 61% of global production^[1], China is the world's largest PET producer. With regional and global demand for recycled PET growing, China also has the potential to take the lead in recycled PET (r-PET) production. In 2021, 58% of the world’s r-PET was consumed in Asia (with 38% in China^[2]) underscoring this region’s importance both as a major producer and consumer.

Furthermore, China is a key transformer of PET into resins and fibers used in numerous applications in the packaging and textile industries.  Most notably, China is the primary country for transforming PET into fiber, representing 78% of all PET fiber transformation in the world^[3].

For Zhink, the strategic focus is on the development of two global industries, PET and textiles, and to be a leader with sustainable competitiveness. Zhink is a major actor within the PET market with an annual production of 3 million tons of PET, serving domestic and global markets. CARBIOS has developed a enzymatic depolymerization technology that enables efficient and solvent-free recycling of PET plastic and textile waste into virgin-like products. The initial agreement between the two groups would allow Zhink to increase its recycled PET capacities and meet its sustainable competitiveness objectives by offering r-PET from enzymatic recycling: a circular recycling solution that can process all types of PET waste including hard-to-recycle waste (such as opaque and colored bottles, multilayer food trays and textile waste) while reducing CO2 emissions by 57%^[4] compared with virgin PET production. For CARBIOS, this agreement marks a significant step in the deployment of its technology worldwide and roll-out of its licensing model to achieve its ambition to become a leading technology provider in the recycling of PET by 2035. This Asia-based plant under license by Zhink would come in addition to the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant which is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.

^[1] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[2] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[3] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[4] Database ecoinvent 3.8; French scenario, taking into account the detour of 50% of PET waste from conventional end-of-life. Virgin PET: 2.53 kg CO2/kg (cradle to gate)

After navigating the challenges of 2023, Vietnam's textile and garment exports have been gradually recovering. Additionally, foreign direct investment (FDI) into Vietnam during the first five months of this year reached USD 11 billion, a 2% year-on-year increase, according to the Foreign Investment Agency under the Ministry of Planning and Investment (MPI). To cater to Vietnam’s renewed business opportunities, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will return from 26 – 28 February 2025 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC).

The fair’s inaugural edition attracted 409 exhibitors and 17,262 visits from 17 and 55 countries and regions respectively. Building on this solid foundation, VIATT 2025 will continue to showcase the latest industry trends, and expand its focus on various pertinent areas. This will include the fair’s new Econogy Hub, a dedicated zone to advance the topic of sustainability in the textile industry, and to relate it closely to the demands of economic and social change. Together with the evolving environmental landscape, the fair will also help industry players adapt to the rapid adoption of new technology in the business world with the debut of the Innovation & Digital Solutions Zone. This zone will allow exhibitors to unveil the latest technology and solutions such as AI design, digital manufacturing, big data analytics, and more.

Concurrently, VIATT 2025 will continue to present a diverse range of exhibitors across the apparel, home textile and technical textile sectors, with positive feedback received from many quarters at the fair’s inaugural edition.

Apparel Fabrics & Fashion
In the first four months of 2024, textile and garment exports grew 6.3% year-on-year to over USD 10 billion. The US remains Vietnam’s top export market, followed by the EU, South Korea, China, and Japan. To meet this demand, Vietnam's textile industry continues to import a significant amount of raw materials. At VIATT 2024, yarns, fibres and fabrics for casualwear, sportswear and uniforms, as well as garment accessories, were in high demand.

Home & Contract Textiles
Vietnam’s home textile market is projected to undergo a steady CAGR of 2.4% from 2024 – 2032, driven by the rising need for modern and stylish home textiles, e-commerce expansion, and favourable government initiatives. At the fair’s previous edition, product groups included bedding, loungewear and bathroom textiles, curtains and curtain fabrics, upholstery and sofa fabrics, and home textile accessories.

At VIATT 2025, exhibitors can additionally present their latest offerings in the Home Textiles Display Zone or at dedicated product presentations, to maximise their visibility to potential buyers.

Technical Textiles & Technologies
Across the textile industry, investors are now focusing on optimising production capacity, streamlining supply chains, and enhancing product quality to maintain competitiveness in both domestic and international markets. With the new Innovation & Digital Solutions Zone to supplement the textile technology category, VIATT 2025 is set to play host to providers of textile and nonwoven machinery, CAD/CAM, CMT, and technology for embroidery, knitting, sewing, printing, and more. Exhibitors can draw more attention to their latest solutions by participating in the fair's new innovation showcase area.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain. The second edition will be held from 26 – 28 February 2025.

Jeanologia has been honored with the title of 'Best Business Project' in the inaugural edition of the Spanish Fashion Academy Awards, aimed at recognizing and highlighting the key players in the Spanish fashion industry.

At a gala celebrating Spanish talent, Jeanologia emerged as a leading authority in sustainability and technology applied to fashion. The accolade from the Spanish Fashion Academy acknowledges Jeanologia's global vision and leadership, as well as its ability to catalyze positive change in the global fashion industry. Chosen from over 400 contenders and endorsed by the votes of 129 distinguished founding academics, the award reflects the recognition of Jeanologia's influence in the sector.

The award ceremony, held on Thursday, June 13, at Madrid's Teatro Fernán Gómez Centro Cultural de la Villa, attracted prominent figures from the Spanish fashion scene and marked a significant moment in Spanish fashion, paying homage to the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga, a pivotal figure who would have turned 129 in 2024.

Enrique Silla, CEO and founder of Jeanologia, accepted the award statuette, a design by Helena Rohner inspired by Balenciaga's iconic headdress.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, applauds the U.S. House of Representatives for passing the Wastewater Infrastructure Pollution Prevention and Environments Safety (WIPPES) Act (H.R. 2964). The WIPPES Act, which creates national standards for “Do Not Flush” labeling for non-flushable wipes, passed out of the House Committee on Energy and Commerce in December of 2023, and on June 12, it cleared the House floor in a bipartisan vote. The bill now awaits consideration in the Senate Science, Commerce, and Energy Committee.

This bipartisan legislation is intended to address the growing problem of sewer system clogs caused by improper disposal of consumer wipes that are not intended to be disposed of in toilets. This federal solution is the result of a years-long industry collaboration with wastewater operators which has resulted in the passage of similar legislation in seven states. The WIPPES Act will create a national standard based on existing state laws to ensure non-flushable wipes will carry prominent “Do Not Flush” labeling on packaging.

“INDA has championed this legislation for the past two years and we are encouraged to see it pass out of the House. We extend our thanks to the bill sponsors, our industry and wastewater partners, and INDA members as we take another step forward to make “Do Not Flush” labeling nationwide,” said Wes Fisher, Director of Government Affairs.

The WIPPES Act lead sponsors in the House are Representative Lisa McClain (R-MI) and Representative Mary Peltola (D-AK) and the bill was introduced in the Senate by Senator Jeff Merkley (D-OR) and Senator Susan Collins (R-ME).

The Western Development Commission (WDC) announces the successful funding of the THREAD project. Supported by the Interreg Northern Periphery and Arctic Programme, THREADs (Textile and Habiliment Reuse for the Environment and NPA Area Development) is set to launch a transformative three-year initiative starting in September 2024, focusing on innovative textile waste management.

THREADs aims to significantly reduce textile waste in the Northern Periphery and Arctic region. With a total budget of €1.5 million, the project will implement a range of innovative approaches across the textile lifecycle—from design to disposal. This initiative includes trialling smart waste collection methods, enhancing circular practices, and integrating social inclusion initiatives in circularity efforts. Additionally, the project will explore new business models to support sustainable practices.

The project unites a diverse group of partners from across Europe, reflecting a collaborative effort to tackle an urgent environmental issue. The lead partner, Kajaani University of Applied Sciences from Finland, is joined by other key stakeholders including the Municipality of Kittilä, Kiertokaari Ltd, Remiks Husholdning AS from Norway, Technological University of the Shannon – Forge Design Factory from Ireland, University of Boras and Lulea Miljoresurs AB from Sweden, and the Icelandic Textile Center.

The funding announcement marks a crucial step towards implementing effective solutions that address both the environmental impact of textile waste and the challenges posed by fast fashion in sparsely populated areas. By focusing on sustainability and efficient resource use, THREADs is poised to create meaningful change in the way textile management is approached in the NPA region.

drupa 2024 in Düsseldorf drew to a successful close on 7 June after eleven days. 1,643 exhibitors from 52 nations presented a showcase of innovations in the Düsseldorf exhibition halls and thrilled the trade visitors with performances. The international share of the visitors was 80%, with attendees coming from 174 countries. After Europe, Asia was the most strongly represented region with 22%, followed by America with 12%.  Asia as well as Latin America and the MENA region are markets with great growth potential, which was reflected in the significant increase in exhibitors' presence and order books.

Exhibitors praised the high level of decision-making competence of visitors. They, in turn, gave top marks to the range of products and services on offer in the 18 exhibition halls. Around 96% of all visitors confirmed that they had fully achieved the objectives associated with their visit. At over 50%, most of them came from the printing industry, followed by the packaging industry, whose share has increased significantly and which was the focus of many exhibitors as a growth driver. In total, 170,000 trade visitors attended drupa 2024.

Digitalisation
Automation took centre stage at this year’s drupa, with a strong focus on AI and smart workflows, including software solutions. It became clear that digital and analogue technologies ideally complement and benefit from each other. Traditional industry leaders presented a wide range of digital solutions, while digital pioneers integrated conventional components into their offerings. Robotics played an important role in the exhibition halls and illustrated the path towards the smart factory.

Transformation and growth
drupa made it clear that the industry has great potential for the future, even against the backdrop of many challenges, and that the prospects are promising. In the last financial year, the global printing industry achieved a turnover of around EUR 840 billion (source: Smithers) and continues to develop at varying pace worldwide.
Many new strategic alliances concluded at the trade fair reflected the opportunities that are only possible in such a concentrated form at drupa.

Sustainable technologies
Technology is the key to achieving sustainability goals - exhibitors at drupa illustrated this with numerous practice-orientated developments and concrete solutions. Top priority is given to resource efficiency and the path to a functioning circular economy. In addition, Touchpoint Sustainability from the VDMA, the German Machinery and Equipment Manufacturers’ Association, showcased current state of the art innovations, presented best-practice use cases and gave a far-reaching outlook into the future of a sustainable printing industry.

Knowledge transfer
The supporting programme with its five special forums drupa cube, drupa next age (dna) and the Touchpoints Packaging, Textile and Sustainability was well received. In times of constant change and the resulting new business models, they ensured an intensive transfer of knowledge and provided important guidance. Guided tours on various key topics rounded off the trade fair experience.

The next drupa will be held in 2028.

The Fashion for Good Museum publishes its legacy document. The report was prompted by the museum’s closure on June 5th, 2024. It represents the museum’s mission, summarising invaluable insights gathered over six years and key results such as reaching 115.000 visitors and creating a dedicated community of more than 250.000 followers online. Committed to transparency and collaboration, Fashion for Good shares its reflections, tools, and transferable learnings, as well as the future of its collections and next steps, continuing to inspire positive change within the fashion ecosystem. All information can be accessed on the Fashion for Good website for continued use and benefit of educators, the cultural sector, and the wider public.

Looking back on its journey, the Fashion for Good Museum celebrates achievements such as hosting 115.000 visitors, including 8.000 students from 200 schools, curating 13 exhibitions, offering over 75 events, launching 4 educational programmes, reaching both current and future generations, and inspiring many to drive change in the fashion industry. With an earned media value of over 46 million Euros through press coverage since 2017, Fashion for Good's influence has been significant, evident in its 250.000 social media followers and 15.000 newsletter subscribers.

The report fulfils the promise Fashion for Good made in 2017 – to share their journey, learnings, and most impactful activities with the world. Within these pages, readers will discover reflections on their messaging, insights about creative partnerships with entities such as Lowlands Festival, Dutch Design Week, and Museumnacht to case studies of pioneering exhibitions. Their programming was created around themes and topics, such as the untold stories around cotton, circularity, and the future of biomaterials to educate and inspire visitors, ultimately empowering them to take action themselves.

Reflecting on the output of the museum during its short existence, as well as its footprint and wide reach, while acknowledging the challenges encountered during its establishment and development, Fashion for Good distilled six key lessons from Fashion for Good's sustainable museum practices:

• Recognition of Broader Shift: There is a wider movement towards sustainability in the museum sector, exemplified by Fashion for Good and the new ICOM definition.
• Storytelling for Societal Change: Cultural institutions are crucial in driving societal change in fashion consumption through storytelling.
• Innovation through Limitations: Embracing organisational limitations can stimulate innovation in museum collection management and education.
• Audience Engagement: Understanding and expanding the core audience is essential for effective engagement in sustainability initiatives.
• Measuring Impact: It's challenging to measure impact for organisations with social missions, requiring clear success criteria.
• Establishing a Sustainability Framework: Defining sustainability within context is fundamental for organisational sustainability efforts.