From the Sector

• RISE® – Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics Conference – Returns In-Person

Nonwovens innovators will convene in-person for RISE® – Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics Conference – the industry’s premier conference on nonwovens science and technology, Sept. 27-28 at North Carolina State University in Raleigh.

The 12th edition of RISE returns live to Talley Student Union after being held virtually over the last two years. The event is co-organized by INDA and The Nonwovens Institute at North Carolina State University. Registration is now open at the RISE® website. https://www.riseconf.net/

Experts in product development, material science, and new technologies will come together for this insightful two-day conference focused on promising technology developments, future needs and market opportunities. Participants will have opportunities to exchange views on innovative nonwoven technologies and applications, furthering INDA’s strategic initiative to connect and convene the industry.

The 2022 RISE® program will focus on breaking developments in responsible sourcing of nonwoven inputs, realistic end-of-life options, and circularity opportunities in the world of nonwovens and engineered materials with thought leaders presenting on these cutting-edge topics.

Innovations that solve problems and advance the nonwovens industry will be recognized with the 2022 RISE® Innovation Award. The award will be presented Sept. 28 in the culmination of the event. Companies can self-nominate products online http://www.inda.org/awards/rise-innovation-award.html until July 15.

RISE® participants will have the special opportunity on Sept. 27, from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m., to tour The Nonwovens Institute’s $50 million-plus, 60,000 square-foot facilities featuring state-of-the-art equipment, pilot lines and analytical facilities, and attend a networking reception at the on-campus Lonnie Pool Golf Course Clubhouse. The tour will be limited to 50 attendees and advance response is required. The reception will be open to all attendees.

Speaker Snapshot

A few topics that will be addressed by visionary speakers at RISE® include:

• North American Economic Outlook - Robert Fry, Jr., Ph.D., Principal, Robert Fry Economics LLC
• Sustainable Fibers – Developments and the Future - David Grewell, Ph.D., Director, Center for Bioplastics and Biocomposites
• Achieving Supply Chain Circularity - Redesigning Plastics to be Recyclable-by-Design - Kat Knauer, Ph.D., Program Manager - V Research, National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL)
• Novel Biobased Resins Outperforming Plastics and Other Biodegradable Biopolymers - Steven Sherman, CEO, BioLogiQ, Inc.
• Stereochemistry Strategies to Toughen Sugar-Based Polymers and Degradable Elastomers - Matthew Becker, Ph.D., Hugo L. Blomquist Distinguished Professor, Duke University
• Biobased Multicomponent Structures Providing Unique Characteristics and Sustainable Properties to Nonwovens - Kristel Beckers, Senior Application Technician, Total Corbion PLA

A delegation from TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, will participate in the forthcoming Febratex textile show which is being held in the German Village Park in Blumenau, in Santa Catarina, Brazil from August 23-26.

As the fourth largest textiles manufacturer in the world, Brazil’s annual revenues from textiles and apparel amount to an annual $48 billion and the industry employs around 1.5 million people directly.

As with the USA and many European countries, product shortages resulting directly from the Covid-19 pandemic, and subsequent supply chain difficulties, have emphasised to Brazil’s industry the attractiveness of more diversified and shorter supply chains which are closer to customers wherever possible. In the past two years, there has been less reliance on imports from Asia to Brazil, and opportunities are arising again for local manufacturing.

Svegea of Sweden has supplied many automatic collarette cutters to Brazilian companies, which are used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements.

Svegea supplies many other bespoke machines for applications in the production of both garment components and technical textiles, including rewinding, measuring, inspection and band knife machines.

Eton Systems, the inventor and world’s leading provider of automated production systems for apparel and other textile-based processes, has supplied a large amount of workstations to Brazilian companies over the years, and believes its newly-launched Opta system is good news for this market becoming more efficient and profitable.

Automation is also high on the agenda of ACG Kinna Automatic, which specialises in automation solutions for filled products such as quilts, pillows and mattresses and also has extensive knowledge in areas such as bed linen and textile filters.

Given Brazil’s extensive forestry sector, the country is a key market for Texo AB, one of the world’s leading manufacturers of weaving machines for the production of paper machine clothing (PMC).

All paper manufacturing machines require a regular supply of PMC, which as large continuous engineered fabrics, carry the paper stock through each stage of the paper production process. With technologically sophisticated designs, they employ fibres and other polymeric materials in complex structures and each paper machine has an average of ten separate fabrics installed on it. Although the PMC business represents just a small proportion of the total cost of manufacturing paper, it can have a significant impact on the quality of the paper, the efficiency of a machine and machine production rates.

The new Swedish luxury womenswear brand presented its first couture runway show, ‘Midnight in the Persian Garden’, in the Salle des Textiles of Paris’ Musée des Arts et Métiers on Thursday, July 7th at 10.30am CET.

As earthly manifestations of an imaginary paradise, where architecture and horticulture were brought together into meticulous perfection, the Persian garden was the point of inspiration for ArdAzAei’s debut couture collection.
A poetic ode to the transcendent beauty of nature, ‘Midnight in the Persian Garden’ honours the incredibly complex systems of engineering required to create such sublime spaces through couture’s intricate techniques of smocking, pleating, embroidery, and appliqué.
 
An evening wear collection of red-carpet gowns and cocktail dresses, tailoring, jewellery and accessories, the collection sees a recurring reference to the Persian Rose and the Parrot Tulip, with the flowers informing silhouettes, three-dimensional sculptural forms, and elaborately embroidered jacquard.
 
Sharp tailoring in the form of contemporary women’s suits see sleek jackets and flared pants with hypnotic floral patterning evoking the undulating chaos of nature’s rhythms.
 
Another key theme running throughout the collection is the dynamic between mathematic forms of composition—a key element of Persian garden architecture—and the craft of the handmade, evident in crystal sequins custom-cut to the lines of the ArdAzAei logo, designed by M/M (Paris), which are then hand-embroidered to create organic forms.
 
The dynamic is also evident in an evening dress which sees 60 metres of fabric pleated and cut into geometric shapes appliqued to its top, while 100 hand-painted pleated fans go into the construction of its flared skirt.

In order to realise such intricate forms of construction, the collection is made in France in collaboration with highly skilled couture artisans focused on upholding the highest craftsmanship and material standards. The show venue, the ‘Salle des Textiles’ at the Musée des Arts et Métiers, pays homage to the country’s rare artisanal expertise.

“I have been searching for the long-lasting beauty and respect for nature that you’ll find in the Persian garden, some of which date back to as early as 4,000 BC,” says Bahareh Ardakani, ArdAzAei’s founder and creative director.
 
“This is reflected in our endeavours to certify part of our collection to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), and why this collection is made in France with the country’s leading couture artisans. Every detail is precious, and we want to express the feeling of walking through a Persian garden in the midnight to the smallest of details.”
 
With ateliers in Paris and Stockholm, ArdAzAei is where Persian heritage, Swedish modernism and French savoir-faire collide.

As a luxury womenswear brand engaged in the search for the sublime, ArdAzAei eschews trend-based consumption to instead offer made-to-measure couture, and one prêt-à-porter collection of formalwear per year, released in drops according to the seasons on the digital flagship ArdAzAei.com
 
ArdAzAei focuses on working with textile suppliers that can reveal the details of the origins and processes behind its products, tracing each fabric right through the supply chain of raw materials, yarn spinners, weavers, print and dying techniques.

ITM 2022 hosted textile technology leaders in Istanbul for 5 days, presenting the latest innovations in every field of textile from weaving, knitting, yarn, digital printing, finishing to denim. The ITM 2022 Exhibition, where a business volume of over 1.5 billion Euros was created in 5 days, accelerated the Turkish and world economy.

Organized by the partnership of Teknik Fairs Inc. and Tüyap Tüm Fuarcılık Yapım Inc., ITM 2022- International Textile Machinery Exhibition was held at Tüyap Fair and Congress Center between 14-18 June.  ITM 2022 Exhibition, attended by 1280 companies and company representatives from 65 countries, was visited by 64,500 people from 102 countries, consisting of 44% international and 56% domestic visitors.

Turkey became a Supply Center at the ITM 2022 Exhibition
The successful sales graph achieved at the ITM 2022 Exhibition proved that the difficulties experienced due to the pandemic for the last 3 years have been left behind. Turkey has become a supply center for European, Middle Eastern and African countries, especially with the disruption of the supply chain in Far East countries, including China. The profile of the professional visitors visiting the ITM 2022 Exhibition revealed that in the new world order that has shifted after the pandemic, the trade network has also changed hands and new players have appeared on the scene. The fact that manufacturers from all over the world such as Andorra, Angola, Honduras, Peru, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Brazil, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Egypt, Iran, and Oman purchased a large number of machinery and signed collaborations at the ITM 2022 Exhibition has proven this.

Exhibitors of ITM 2022 enlarge their stands for ITM 2024
Many company officials, who stated that they have achieved a sales graphic far above their expectations starting from the very first day of the ITM 2022 Exhibition and that they have hosted visitors from all over the world, decided to enlarge their stands at the ITM 2024 Exhibition. During the exhibition, companies visited the registration application points and applied for ITM 2024 participation.

The next meeting of the ITM and HIGHTEX Exhibitions will be held in Istanbul between 4-8 June 2024.

• Bluesign announces partnership with SCTI

Bluesign has teamed up with Sustainable Chemistry for the Textile Industry (SCTI^TM) to develop a sustainable chemistry index that shall provide a standard communication guide for chemical suppliers, manufacturers, brands, and NGOs.

The first-of-its-kind index is intended to inspire change in the industry by making it easier for stakeholders to assess the sustainability of textile chemical products against the highest standards while safeguarding the intellectual property (IP) of participating chemical companies. IP protection is critical to ensuring ongoing investment in sustainable solutions.

Chemical products, such as dyes and textile auxiliaries, are often characterized with the attribute of “free of a certain substance”. Rather than prioritizing ingredients only, the bluesign^® SYSTEM already goes beyond this. The chemicals and the production site where they were created must meet certain criteria regarding environmental performance, occupational health and safety, and product stewardship performance to be bluesign^® APPROVED.

The sustainable chemistry index will be reserved for substances that offer transparency on a number of additional indicators including the chemical’s circularity viability, greenhouse gas emissions during production, and the source of the raw materials. The sustainable chemistry index will also require that the downstream use of the chemical is optimized, meaning, for example, that it promotes resource saving in textile finishing. Additionally, excellent corporate governance paired with well-defined environmental and social (ESG) goals will be a pre-condition.

SCTI^TM is an alliance of leading chemical companies that strives to empower the textile and leather industries to apply sustainable, state-of-the-art chemistry solutions that protect factory workers, local communities, consumers and the environment.

Bluesign will implement and manage the sustainable chemistry index as an independent authority with a holistic approach to helping companies throughout the textile supply chain improve their sustainability performance.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG. will participate in the ITM 2022 International Textile Machinery Exhibition in Istanbul, Turkey.

SHIMA SEIKI will exhibit a wide range of its products, including proposals in seam-free WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology that offers an alternative to labor-intensive manufacturing in Turkey and other international markets. Featured is the flagship MACH2XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine with original SlideNeedle™ on four needle beds and spring-loaded moveable sinkers with expanded patterning capability, the MACH2VS V-bed machine for producing WHOLEGARMENT® items using every other needle, as well as the compact SWG091N2 for producing smaller WHOLEGARMENT® items and accessories. A brand new proposal in V-bed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting will also be introduced in the form of the N.SVR183 machine. N.SVR123SP features a special loop presser bed that can produce hybrid inlay fabrics with both knit and weave characteristics. N.SVR123SP at ITM will feature the special i-Plating option, capable of alternating yarn colors in any pattern, producing jacquard-like designs using plain jersey stitch for even greater diversity in knit design. Meanwhile N.SSR112 offers industry-leading technology in an economical yet reliable package made in Japan. Also on display is the SFG20 glove knitting machine.

Demonstrations will be performed on SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system. At the core of the company’s “Total Fashion System” concept, SDS®-ONE APEX4 provides comprehensive support throughout the production supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way SDS®-ONE APEX4 improves on the design evaluation process with its ultra-realistic simulation capability, whereby virtual samples replace physical sampling, consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. The same capability is present in APEXFiz™ subscription-based design software. Installed on personal computers, APEXFiz™ features the same functionality as SDS®-ONE APEX4, but with the added versatility to adapt to different work styles and business environments including teleworking and telecommuting. Digital prototyping using virtual samples on SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz™ help to digitally transform the fashion supply chain for realizing sustainable manufacturing. APEXFiz™ will be shown along with SHIMA SEIKI’s yarnbank™ digital yarn web platform that further enhances the realism of virtual samples.

• Exceptionally high order backlog and sustained strong demand
• Supply chain bottlenecks, COVID lockdown in China and significant cost increases
• Takeover of winding machine business leads to additional costs
• Sales and earnings adversely impacted in first half-year
• Considerably improved market position

Despite an exceptionally high order backlog and sustained strong demand, Rieter’s business situation in the first half of 2022 is characterized by the well-known supply chain bottlenecks, the repercussions of the COVID lockdown in China and the significant increases in material and transportation costs.

Further costs are added in connection with the takeover of the automatic winding business as of April 1, 2022.

These factors are adversely impacting both sales and earnings.

Rieter expects significantly higher sales in the first half of 2022 compared to the prior-year period (first half of 2021: CHF 400.5 million). Rieter anticipates a loss at the EBIT and net result level in the first half of 2022 (first half of 2021: EBIT CHF 9.0 million, net result: CHF 5.3 million).
The company is working intensively on the implementation of measures to minimize the impact of the supply chain bottlenecks, the COVID lockdown in China and the cost increases. The implemented price increases have a delayed effect, particularly in the machinery business. The integration of the automatic winding business is proceeding according to plan.

As soon as the situation in the sourcing markets has normalized, Rieter expects to benefit from the exceptionally high order backlog and the considerably improved market position as a result of the takeover of the automatic winding business as well as Accotex and Temco.
Rieter will provide a detailed report on the business results of the first half of 2022 in July 2022.

Sustainable products that solve problems are the themes for this year’s finalists for the World of Wipes Innovation Award® that will be presented at the 16th annual World of Wipes® International Conference, June 27-30, at the Marriott Marquis in Chicago, Illinois.    

The three products vying for the award are an all-natural substitute for plastic fibers from Bast Fibre Technologies, a dual-textured 3D cleaning wipe from Fitesa and an environmentally safe flushable wipe from Nice-Pak.

INDA’s Technical Advisory Board selected the finalists from nearly 20 submissions based on their creativity, novelty, uniqueness, technical sophistication within the entire nonwovens wipes value chain and expansion of nonwovens use.

Kimberly-Clark Scott® 24-Hour Sanitizing Wipes was the recipient of the 2021 World of Wipes Innovation Award®.

This year’s in-person WOW International Conference is expected to draw 400-plus senior-level wipes professionals from all wipes segments, repeating last year’s strong live event that welcomed 475 wipes professionals from 14 countries to Atlanta, GA.

Finalists Announced
The three companies vying for the award (in alphabetical order) are:

• Bast Fibre Technologies – Sero® Hemp Fibers
• Fitesa – Dual Textured 3D Wipe
• Nice ’N CLEAN® SecureFLUSHTM Technology Flushable Wipes by Nice-Pak

WOW 2022 Conference Highlights
This year’s WOW conference sessions focus on: Circular & Sustainable Wipes, Supply Chain Challenges in Wipes, Nonwoven Substrates for More Sustainable Wipes, Trends in the Wipes Market and Among Consumers, Disinfection Concerns and New Technologies, Sustainable Wipe Packaging Trends, and Developments in Flushability Issues.

EURATEX has launched its EU-Ukraine Textile Initiative (EUTI), which aims at facilitating cooperation between European and Ukrainian textile and apparel companies. EUTI offers a single contact point for Ukrainian companies who seek support and cooperation with EU counterparts, and vice versa. That connection will be helpful to match supply and demand (e.g. there are many requests for supplies of fabrics), engage in public procurement, offer company-to-company support.

The service will be coordinated by EURATEX in close cooperation with UKRLEGPROM, Ukrainian Association of enterprises of textile & leather industry. Olena Garkusha, an experienced manager coming from the Ukrainian textile industry and now based in Brussels, will act as contact point.

EU exports to Ukraine reached €1.3 bln in 2021 (13th market), whereas imports from Ukraine reached €500 mln (21st place). There is potential to expand that relationship, both in the short term - to respond to urgent needs, e.g. in military and medical fabrics - but also in the longer run; as partner in the PEM Convention, Ukraine can play an important role in Europe’s textile and apparel supply chain. The proposed suspension of tariffs on imported products from Ukraine by the EU will offer further opportunities.

EURATEX Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented: “Supporting the textile industry is our way to help the people of Ukraine. We encourage our European members to connect via EUTI and develop sustainable partnerships.”

Tetyana Izovit, President-Chief of the Board of UKRLEGPROM welcomed the initiative: “Today, we have many textile and  apparel  companies in Ukraine with expertise and skilled workers; they are able and willing to work with EU, but lack the contacts, customers and supplies. EUTI will help them.”

• Low impact of Ukraine war on business performance in 1st quarter
• 12.2% increase in sales to €270.9 million based on growth in all four business units
• Adjusted EBITDA improves by 11.5% to €36.8 million

SGL Carbon generated consolidated sales of €270.9 million in Q1 2022 (Q1 2021: €241.5 million). This corresponds to an increase of €29.4 million or 12.2% compared to the same period of the prior year. All four business units contributed to the pleasing increase in sales. In parallel, adjusted EBITDA improved by 11.5% to €36.8 million in the reporting period.

Sales development
In the first three months of fiscal 2022, the sales increase of €29.4 million was driven by all four operating business units: Graphite Solutions (+€11.3 million), Carbon Fibers (+€6.6 million), Composite Solutions (+€7.2 million) and Process Technology (+€6.0 million).
In particular, sales to customers in the automotive and semiconductor industries and a significant recovery in the industrial applications segment were key factors in the increase in sales. Sales of the Process Technology business unit to customers in the chemical industry also developed pleasingly. The effects of the war in Ukraine, which has been ongoing since the end of February 2022, had only a little impact on SGL Carbon's sales performance in the 1st quarter.

Earnings development
Despite the increasingly difficult market environment in the course of Q1 2022, associated with temporary supply and production bottlenecks at their customers, temporarily interrupted transport routes, and significantly higher energy prices, SGL Carbon was able to keep the adjusted EBITDA margin almost stable year-on-year at 13.6%.  
Adjusted EBITDA increased by 11.5% to €36.8 million in the reporting period. Higher capacity utilization in the business units and product mix effects contributed to the improvement in earnings, together with the cost savings achieved as a result of the transformation. By contrast, higher raw material, energy and logistics costs as of end of February 2022 had a negative impact on earnings. The Carbon Fibers business unit was particularly affected by the energy price increases. One-time expenses of €9.2 million in conjunction with energy transactions burdened the Carbon Fibers business unit in the 1st quarter of 2022.  
To secure our production and delivery capabilities, around 85% of the energy requirements of the entire SGL Carbon for 2022 are price-hedged.
Adjusted EBITDA and EBIT do not include in total positive one-time effects and special items of €8.5 million, among other things from the termination of a heritable building right to a site no longer in use. Taking into account the one-time effects and special items presented as well as depreciation and amortization of €14.1 million, reported EBIT increased by 83.5% to €31.2 million (Q1 2021: €17.0 million). The net profit for the period developed correspondingly and more than tripled from €6.1 million to €21.4 million in a quarter-on-quarter comparison.

Outlook
The sales and earnings figures for the 1st quarter 2022 confirm the stable demand from different market segments. Price increases and volatility in the availability of raw materials, transportation services and energy were largely offset by savings from the transformation program and pricing initiatives at the customers.
For 2022, SGL Carbon continues to expect volatile raw material and energy prices, which were included in their forecast for 2022 at the time of planning. However, there are uncertainties about the extent and duration to which SGL Carbon and the customers will be affected by the impact of the war in Ukraine or temporary supply chain disruptions due to the lockdowns in China. Therefore, SGL Carbon's outlook for fiscal 2022 does not include supply and/or production interruptions at customers or the impact of a possible energy embargo that cannot be estimated at this time.  
SGL Carbon's forecast also implies that factor cost increases can be at least partially passed on to the customers through pricing initiatives. SGL Carbon has also included the revenue and earnings impact from the expiry of a supply contract with a major automobile manufacturer at the end of June 2022 in our forecast.