From the Sector

With a ribbon cutting ceremony on October 24, 2023 CHT USA celebrated the $ 25 million expansion at its US headquarters in Cassopolis, Michigan. More than 100 attendees came to the celebrations, among others officials from local, county and state governments, neighbors, and area business leaders, CHT employees, CTO Dr. Bernhard Hettich as representative of CHT’s Global management team, and members of the press.

In his speech, Dr. Bernhard Hettich, CTO of CHT Group, thanked the local authorities for their business-friendly policies and stated that a development towards sustainability in many areas would not be possible without CHT's silicone products: "With CHT's largest single investment outside Europe, CHT is taking a big step and doubling its silicone production capacity. We intend to use this expansion not only to support our customers in the Americas, but also to leverage the capacity for our global growth. In line with the motto "CHT first", further steps in this direction will follow."

For the Cass County site, the approximately 45,000 square feet new facility with 5 reactors and distillation units resulted in an increase in the total area of the company's site to 120,000 square feet. This will then allow sufficient space for additional reactors and downstream processes. The CHT USA site expansion has created approximately 30 highly skilled jobs in the community.

CHT USA’s Regional Sales and Marketing Director NORAM, Matthew Loman hosted the Ribbon Cutting ceremony.

In China, the textile industry is forward-looking and resilient – with a healthy appetite for new technologies and a determination to keep its leading position. Sustainability is increasingly coming into focus, so there is a growing demand for recycling technologies, as well as automated solutions and digitalization. Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary General of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association, is clear: “China is the main market for a large number of our association members.” On top of growing consumer demand and technological capabilities, the latest ambitious five-year plan will drive further development of the Chinese textile industry in world markets, and Swiss companies will work with all stakeholders to enable its success.

Market proximity
Swiss companies realized many years ago that geographical proximity is the key to success. Stäubli has started to set up offices in Chinese cities since 1998 and counts 12 locations today, to serve the whole country. In 2002, Itema established a centralized local branch which today has 160 employees in various functions. Loepfe has expanded its presence by creating an independent local business unit to overcome the 9,000 km distance by air, while Uster Technologies has had a Chinese subsidiary since 1982, with offices and service stations in different provinces. Luwa set up its offices and workshop in Shanghai in 1997. Rieter established a presence in mainland China in 2005, driven by a strong commitment to expanding the country’s know-how and expertise – and ten years later opened an advanced research center. All Swiss companies with serious business goals in China have made similar commitments to connect with customers and maintain strong relationships.

Understanding Chinese customers
Swiss companies also understand that Chinese customers require dedicated attention, and that speed is more essential than ever in delivering both machines and services.
Manufacturers in China are seeking cost-effective solutions to remain competitive, while consumers are looking for value in their purchases. Companies need to develop solutions that provide tangible economic benefits to their clients. Furthermore, energy savings have become paramount in China, due to the government's commitment to environmental sustainability and reduced carbon emissions. “Businesses are adopting more energy-efficient processes and technologies to meet stringent energy conservation and emission reduction targets,” says Peter Schnickmann, Managing Director at Luwa Air Engineering (Shanghai). He notes an investment trend for solutions helping Chinese companies cut operational costs and minimize their carbon footprint.

To enhance the reputation of both companies and products – and boost the image of the entire industry – the environmental impact needs to decrease. Priorities are saving water and waste, as well as reducing, replacing or completely eliminating the use of harmful substances. China has a strong demand for environmental-friendly solutions and sustainable technologies.

Customer-oriented in weaving
The huge number of Chinese fabric producers calls for an immense volume of weaving machinery to be supplied by international and local providers. Swiss machinery manufacturers hold an impressive share of this business.
Chinese weavers require advanced technology, with increasingly higher standards of efficiency. In weaving preparation, latest solutions match the speed, quality and reliability now wanted. Weaving machines too offer the eco-efficiency, performance, and ease of use needed, with innovations that extend the scope of sustainable weaving, and open-platform systems configurable to weavers’ specific operations. A huge increase in demand for technical textiles in recent years has been driven by applications such as carbon fiber, aramid and glass fiber.

Profitable in spinning
China’s competitive advantages come from its large-scale and integrated manufacturing capabilities, along with the use of advanced automation and digitization technologies. Spinners aim to capitalize on extended market opportunities, with more economical production. The latest air-jet spinning machines serve these goals, allowing exceptionally low production costs per kilogram of yarn, coupled with high flexibility and reliability. Sustainable yarns are in great demand.

The automation trend in spinning mills focuses on connecting production processes. Data is used to ensure the highest quality standards, most efficient raw material usage, reduction of waste, and energy savings. To make spinning mills more competitive, latest solutions combine cutting-edge hardware, data-enabled software and renowned textile expertise.

Carbios  has been granted the building permit and operating authorization for the world’s first PET[1] biorecycling plant, allowing construction to start. The plant will be built in Longlaville in the Grand-Est Region on a 13.7-hectare site adjacent to the existing PET production plant of Indorama Ventures, its strategic partner.

This state-of-the-art facility, scheduled for commissioning in 2025, will play a crucial role in the fight against plastic pollution by providing an industrial-scale enzymatic recycling solution for PET waste. Carbios’ technology enables PET circularity and offers an alternative raw material to virgin fossil-based monomers, allowing PET producers, chemical companies, waste management firms, public entities, and brands to have an effective solution to meet regulatory requirements and fulfill their sustainability commitments. The plant will have a processing capacity of 50,000 tons of post-consumer PET waste per year (mostly waste that is non-recyclable mechanically, equivalent to 2 billion colored PET bottles or 2.5 billion PET food trays) and will generate 150 direct and indirect jobs in the region.
 
The plant will be built on a 13.7-hectare site acquired by Carbios on Indorama Ventures’ existing PET plant site without suspensive conditions. The land area gives the possibility to double the facility’s capacity.
 
A plant designed to minimize its carbon footprint
The plant is designed to maximize circularity, with high-quality output products, and minimize its environmental footprint, especially with regards to energy consumption. Optimizations are underway to further increase the recycling of water required for the process.

Located near the borders with Belgium, Germany, and Luxembourg, the plant’s location is strategic for nearby waste supply. Moreover, Carbios’ biorecycling technology can process complex waste that conventional technologies cannot recycle and produce food-grade products, enhancing the plant’s flexibility for waste supply. Carbios and Indorama Ventures will collaborate to ensure the feedstock supply of the Longlaville plant, located in a geographical area where the supply potential could reach 400,000 tons in 2023, and up to 500,000 tons in 2030 with improved selective collection.

Carbios has already secured an initial supply source by winning part of the CITEO tender for the biorecycling of multilayer food trays. The consortium composed of Carbios, Wellman (a subsidiary of Indorama Ventures), and Valorplast has been selected to handle 30% of the tonnage proposed by CITEO. Carbios will handle the portion of the flow consisting of multilayer food trays at its Longlaville plant starting in 2025.
 
Plant funding secured
In July 2023, Carbios successfully completed its capital increase for approximately €141 million, the largest capital increase on Euronext Growth since 2015. This amount is mainly intended to finance the construction of this plant, for which the total investment is estimated at around €230 million. The portion of the investment not funded by the proceeds from the July 2023 capital increase is expected to be covered by Indorama Ventures, which plans to mobilize approximately €110 million for this project, French state subsidies of €30 million, and €12.5 million from the Grand-Est Region, as well as a portion of Carbios Group’s available cash, which amounted to €78 million as of 30 June 2023.

Australia is one of the highest waste generators in the world, with over 7.6 million tonnes of food ending up in landfill each year, costing over $36.6 billion and producing 17.5 million tonnes of greenhouse gas.

Deakin’s partnership with Jet Technology through REACH will explore ways to transform industry-generated organic waste into new products like organic textiles and stock feed using a rapid composting system.

Jet Technology’s Environmental Recycling System (ERS) will build a circular economy by creating valuable products for a range of industry sectors.

Australia is continuing to generate more landfill each year. A new partnership between Deakin’s Recycling and Clean Energy Commercialisation Hub (REACH) and Japanese-based company Jet Technology aims to turn this around by repurposing organic waste and transforming it into new products.

Australia contributes more than 7.6 million tonnes of food to landfill annually, costing over $36.6 billion and producing 17.5 million tonnes of CO2.

Deakin University scientist Alfred Deakin Professor and Chair in Biotechnology Colin Barrow and his team from the Centre for Sustainable Bioproducts will work with Jet Technology to explore the possible reuses of organic waste using Jet Technology’s Environmental Recycling System (ERS). The project will focus on converting organic waste from the agriculture, dairy and fishery sectors by drastically shortening composting time so it can be used to make new products.

The four-year research project will be undertaken at the BioFactory at Deakin’s Waurn Ponds campus. It will initially focus on processing agricultural waste, converting apple pomace into a bioproduct for the textile industry. Apple pomace consists of the apple skin, pulp, seeds and stems left over from apple juice manufacturing. Its disposal in landfill can lead to greenhouse gas emissions and potential contamination of soil and groundwater.

If successful, it could lead to the establishment of a local multi-million-dollar bioeconomy where organisations such as councils, supermarkets and food and beverage businesses could cut costs while generating new revenue streams and job opportunities.

Deakin’s REACH initiative collaborates with progressive industry, government, and education partners to establish a multi-billion-dollar bioeconomy in Victoria and push the limits of technological innovation to deliver energy and recycling solutions that reduce landfill, fossil fuel emissions, and the devastating costs of global warming.

At a kick off meeting hosted by Mango, EURATEX and 20 incoming members presented ReHubs Europe, a new international non-profit organisation poised to give a boost to the textile recycling. The launch follows three years of intense preparation, and the publication of a Techno-Economic Study, which analysed the business case, cost and environmental benefits for upscaling textile waste recycling in Europe.

ReHubs Europe will gather key players from the textile value chain - textile manufacturers, fashion brands, collectors and recyclers, chemical industry, technology providers - who welcome the ReHubs joint ambition to recycle 2.5 million tons of textile waste by 2030. This requires up to 250 industrial projects across Europe, covering different types of fibre-to-fibre recycling.

ReHubs Europe is the industry’s response to the upcoming EU legislation, which sets compulsory collection and sorting of textile waste, by 2025. To manage this, an upscale of recycling capacity is needed as well as a collaboration of different players from the value chain.

Chris Deloof will lead ReHubs Europe as Executive Director. Chris has a long-standing experience in the textile sector and is a passionate advocate for cross-industry collaboration. Moreover, Chris is deeply committed to driving the transition towards a circular economy, which aligns seamlessly with ReHubs Europe's mission.

ReHubs Europe will operate from Brussels, in close partnership with EURATEX. Membership is open to any companies who wish to invest in textile waste recycling in Europe.

Founded in 2013, NOPINZ is a UK-based manufacturer of clothing for cyclists and triathletes. The company's first product was the ‘SpeedPocket’, a product that allows competitors to attach their race numbers more easily (and with ‘no pins’) while improving the all-important aerodynamics. Soon recognising the customer demand for premade attire with incorporated number pockets, the company embarked on a mission to manufacture these new product lines itself. Today, NOPINZ boasts a diverse portfolio, with 60% of its products made in-house, catering to a growing customer base across the UK and international markets. NOPINZ creates speed suits for some of the world’s top cycling teams, as well as competitive amateurs.

NOPINZ places a strong emphasis on sustainability and is committed to minimising its environmental impact. Using a microfactory approach gives better oversight and control of the manufacturing process, including sourcing materials sustainably and locally where possible, reducing transportation, and improving access to recycling. “Our ‘zero to landfill’ policy, means that we reduce our wastage where possible and either recycle or donate excess product to charity,” Blake adds. “We hope to become a B-Corp company in the future.”

“We tested out a few printers, before we ultimately settled on Mimaki,” Blake Pond, the founder of NOPINZ explained. Now the company’s line-up entirely consists of Mimaki’s textile dye sublimation solutions.
“During our search we prioritised the ability to produce fluorescence and accurately replicate colours. Customers often come to us with existing kit made by other manufacturers, which they want to match, so accurately replicating colour is extremely important. And even without existing kit, customers occasionally ask for specific pantone colours. When it comes to cycling kit, colour is often pivotal when considering where to buy from.”

As two flagship dye sublimation printers, both the TS300P-1800 and TS55-1800 are equipped to print on the various technical fabrics that are needed for cycling attire and faithfully reproduce colours to meet customer expectations.

On the occasion of Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition 2023, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has released the 2023 edition of the Fashion CEO Agenda  — a concise report to support the establishment and implementation of leadership strategies to achieve a net positive fashion sector that puts back more into society, the environment, and the global economy than it takes out. In a first for the Fashion CEO Agenda, this edition has been developed to include subsequent action areas for brands, retailers, and producers.  

With less than seven years to deliver on the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals, fashion industry leaders, together with the broader sector, must take urgent steps to make sustainability an integral part of their business strategies. Developed for executives of fashion brands, retailers, and producers, the Fashion CEO Agenda is a succinct resource to support executives in accelerating tangible action across five socio-environmental sustainability priorities:  

• Respectful and Secure Work Environment
• Better Wage Systems
• Resource Stewardship
• Smart Material Choices
• Circular Systems

The 2023 edition includes action areas that have been established through several years of stakeholder engagement and reinforced through the  global Fashion Industry Target Consultation, led by GFA in partnership with the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP). The organisations consulted several hundred industry stakeholders through numerous regional workshops and surveys translated into several languages to help inform a holistic framework that captures global perspectives on social and environmental sustainability.  

Action areas outlined in the report include promoting worker access to effective grievance mechanisms, promoting fair compensation and living wages, establishing water stewardship, and addressing overproduction.

Moreover, the report reiterates the need to adopt existing industry-aligned targets, including UNFCCC’s time-bound targets on decarbonisation and the uptake of preferred and low climate impact materials. The material actions outlined are based on consensus across industry stakeholders and topical experts. Extensive stakeholder engagement demonstrated that substantial action is still urgently needed from all actors in the value chain, while such action must be informed by local contexts.

To complement the Fashion CEO Agenda, GFA has created a 2030 Fashion Sector Vision, which presents where the overall sector should be in relation to each of the five sustainability priority areas within only seven years - a critical milestone on the road to net positive by 2050. The objective is to unite the broader sector, consisting of industry actors such as brands, retailers, and producers and other key stakeholders including consumers, citizens, NGOs, innovators, policymakers, and investors. To realise this Vision, it is imperative that the sector moves from ambition to action – the theme underpinning Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition 2023. GFA now calls on fashion leaders to align their corporate strategies to the priorities and actions laid out in the Fashion CEO Agenda and for the wider sector to support in fostering a conducive environment for scaling this transformation.

Deakin University has signed a partnership agreement with Geelong-based company Xefco as part of its Recycling and Clean Energy Commercialisation Hub (REACH) to conduct new research to transform how our clothing, including jeans, get their colour.

Jeans are one of the most worn garments in the world, but they are also one of the least environmentally friendly, taking around 75 litres of water to dye just one pair.

Deakin’s work with Xefco is helping to explore if a waterless manufacturing process can replace the water intensive processes the clothing industry has used for hundreds of years. The new technology in development is called ‘Ausora’.

Associate Professor Alessandra Sutti, from Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials, said it was exciting to be on the commercialisation journey with Xefco, working with the company to discover what is possible and hopefully reduce the world’s fashion footprint.

“If successful, the Ausora technology, which colours fabrics without the need for large quantities of water, will put us a step closer to more efficient and sustainable clothing manufacturing,” Associate Professor Sutti said.

Xefco CEO Tom Hussey said the company’s new pilot plant, housed at Deakin in Geelong, will test different materials, including specialised fabrics such as waterproof items like outdoor jackets and jeans.

“This is the first stage of Xefco’s vision for the technology, with the REACH project focused on demonstrating the commercial viability of the technology at pilot scale and developing processes so it can be scaled up for commercial production,” Mr Hussey said.

“Together, Deakin and Xefco will push the limits of innovation and see what is possible.”
Xefco’s pilot plant is co-located with Deakin researchers at ManuFutures, the state-of-the-art advanced manufacturing hub at Deakin’s Waurn Ponds campus.

Founded in 2018 Xefco now employs 17 people and its products are already making a difference across the world. Its XReflex technology, which reduces consumption of insulation materials, is being used by some of the world’s leading apparel and fashion brands including The North Face.

Backed by a $50 million grant from the Australian Government’s inaugural Trailblazer Universities Program, with industry and university support taking the total project value to $380 million, REACH is facilitating the development of greener supply chains and accelerating business success as markets move from a throughput economy to a circular economy.

With its flagship formats PREMIUM and SEEK, the Premium Group kicks off into a new season. And the team around Jörg Arntz, Maren Wiebus, Franziska Diers and Marie-Luise Patzelt have big plans again: new insider round tables outside the main dates, structured brand portfolios, an expanded content programme, new meeting spaces, exclusive tours for buyers and much more. The next editions will take place on 16 and 17 January at Station Berlin.

With the redefined and successful July editions this summer, the makers of the Premium Group have shown how proactively change can be realised: only 2 days instead of 3, a new-old location, new brand portfolios and fresh concepts. And the next Berlin experience is going to be even more attractive and profitable.

Registration for brands and buyers is now open and the team cordially invites the entire fashion and creative scene to set new standards together, to meet and to strengthen a platform from which everyone can benefit. For the first time, PREMIUM and SEEK will not take place at the same time as Berlin Fashion Week. The scheduling of Berlin Fashion Week and the event formats of the Premium Group are a result of the respective business and calendar model. Nevertheless, the team will continue to be in close contact with the organisers of Berlin Fashion Week.

Harnessing the synergy of the Texpertise Network of Messe Frankfurt and its global apparel flagship, the co-organisers of the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) recently held a joint press conference on 28 August 2023, the first day of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition. Discussing the inaugural fair’s comprehensive, business-friendly nature, representatives of both Messe Frankfurt  and VIETRADE spoke in glowing terms about the potential of ASEAN’s new platform for the entire textile industry. Set to launch the spring sourcing season, the fair will take place from 28 February – 1 March 2024 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

For its first edition, the fair is expected to attract over 500 exhibitors and around 35,000 visitors to an 18,000 sqm exhibition space. Ms Wendy Wen, Managing Director of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, considered the show’s importance on a worldwide scale: “Serving as a supplementary trade fair to our existing events in China, VIATT will effectively extend our market reach into South East Asia. We’ve designed it to reinforce our global Texpertise Network, spanning the entire textile value chain. The network, which links over half a million textile professionals globally and organises more than 50 international textile trade fairs across 11 different countries, will lend its full support to the fair.”
 
She continued: “In line with this commitment, we will harness our more than 30 years of experience organising Intertextile in China, and extend to the fast-growing textile sector in Vietnam. Intertexile has grown to be by far the most influential series within our Texpertise Network, covering a broad range of resources in apparel fabrics, home and contract textiles."
 
With Vietnam’s largest international airport and seaport, and its proximity to other textile producing countries and regions, Ho Chi Minh City is strategically located to hold an event of this nature. The city attracts 35%^[1] of Vietnam’s foreign direct investment projects, and is the venue of choice for a significant portion of the country’s trade fairs.
 
Discussing the event’s potential, Mr Vu Ba Phu, Director General of Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), said: “Vietnam has emerged as one of the leading textiles exporting countries worldwide, with particularly high growth in the past 10 years, ranging from 15% to 20% yearly. As companies seek to diversify supply chains, and Vietnam introduces lucrative trade agreements, the market is predicted to attract even more investments. A big importer of textile machinery, fabrics, and yarns and fibres, green production and durable goods have become increasingly important. VIATT 2024 will be an important hub helping suppliers and buyers in all categories to meet, source and unleash the full potential of this market.”
 
A comprehensive Vietnam-based textile fair is an attractive proposition for manufacturers and sourcing professionals alike. Exhibitors from around the world will showcase a full spectrum of apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments; the latest innovations in technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology; as well as a wide range of home and contract textiles.
 
Apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments
This sector will contain quality exhibitors from Vietnam, ASEAN, and beyond, providing buyers with numerous, diverse sourcing options in apparel textile sub-categories such as accessories, casualwear, denim, lace and embroidery, ladieswear, pattern designs, shirting, sportswear, suiting, and many more.
 
Technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology
With application areas that include everything from automotive, aerospace and shipping, to construction, healthcare and safety, products on display will include innovative machinery, as well as some of the latest developments in smart textiles, such as wearable technology, sensors, and advanced materials.
 
Home textiles
Exhibitors will feature high-quality bed linens, towels, curtains, and much more, suitable for visitors sourcing for both residential and commercial applications. The diverse collections of home textiles will be enhanced by globally on-trend interior designs and in-demand, organic materials.
 
The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE). Covering the entire textile industry value chain, the inaugural edition will be held from 28 February – 1 March 2024 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

^[1] ‘Investing in Ho Chi Minh City’, October 2022, Vietnam Briefing, retrieved August 2023, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/investing-in-ho-chi-minh-city-why-the-megacitys-industry-economy-and-policy-are-key-to-developmen.html/