From the Sector

Since the outbreak of the coronavirus pandemic, the worldwide demand for protective masks and apparel has resulted in a record number of new orders in the high double-digit millions of euros at Oerlikon Nonwoven. The meltblown technology from Neumünster is recognized by the market as being one of the technically most efficient methods for producing highly-separating filter media made from plastic fibers.

Protective equipment demands high-end nonwoven products
The rising demand for protective masks and other medical protective equipment since the start of the coronavirus pandemic and the associated global ramping up of production capacities has also resulted in an increase in the demand for nonwovens for the production thereof. Initially, this resulted in bottlenecks in the provision of meltblown filter nonwovens. To this end, there had until this point be very few producers of medical filter nonwovens outside China. Meanwhile, the demand for spunbond systems is also rising. “Due to the structure of our group, we are in the fortunate position to swiftly reallocate and free up our production capacities. This means that we are able to relatively quickly deliver not only meltblown systems, but also spunbond equipment”, explains Dr. Ingo Mählmann, Head of Sales & Marketing at Oerlikon Nonwoven, talking about the positive situation at the company.

The capacities for respiratory masks available in Europe to date are predominantly manufactured on Oerlikon Nonwoven systems. “Our machines and systems for manufacturing manmade fiber and nonwovens solutions enjoy an outstanding reputation throughout the world. Ever more manufacturers in the most diverse countries are hoping to become independent of imports”, comments Dr. Mählmann. The Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown systems are being delivered to Germany, China, Turkey, United Kingdom, South Korea, Italy, France, North America and – for the very first time – to Australia until well into 2021.

Quality and efficiency in demand
Depending on the purpose of the application, medical PPE (personal protection equipment) should be breathable and comfortable to wear, protect medical staff against viruses, bacteria and other harmful substances and form a barrier against liquids. For these reasons, they are often made of either pure spunbond or of spunbond-meltblown combinations. Here, the meltblown nonwoven core assumes the barrier or filter task, while the spunbond has to retain its shape, while being tear-resistant, abrasion-proof, absorbent, particularly flame-resistant and nevertheless extremely soft on the skin.

All masks are not created equal – thanks to the ecuTEC+
Protection against infections such as coronavirus can only be guaranteed with the right quality.

The nonwovens can be electrostatically-charged in order to further improve the filter performance without additionally increasing breathing resistance. Here, Oerlikon Nonwovenʼs patented ecuTEC+ electro-charging unit excels in terms of its extreme flexibility. Nonwovens manufacturers can freely choose between numerous variation options and set the optimal charging method and intensity for their specific applications. In this way, even the smallest particles are still attracted and reliable separated by a relatively open-pored nonwoven. Nevertheless, mask wearers are still able to easily breathe in and out due to the comparatively loose formation of the fibers. To this end, it comes as no surprise that all meltblown systems currently destined for the production of mask nonwovens are equipped with the ecuTEC+ unit.

• Royal DSM, a global science-based company in Nutrition, Health and Sustainable Living, today announced that, for the first time, Dyneema® Composite Fabrics are used by Moncler in the Fall/Winter 2020 Grenoble collection, which fuses form and function into high performance skiwear.

Moncler Grenoble is born of a passion for research and implements cutting-edge technology to push the limits of its potential. The design team identified Dyneema® as an innovative fabric it could use to push the level of its performance to the next peak, incorporating the material into the new collection as a departure from the conventional use of cotton and polyester.

Sandro Mandrino, the Head of Design for Moncler Grenoble, was the first designer of the luxury fashion brand to incorporate Dyneema® into one of his creations through the Moncler Genius project. The Moncler Genius project advocates radical co-creation where multiple designers create their own signature collections in collaboration with the house. Together, these collections translate into one vision of the future and, as one of the nine designers, Mandrino’s interpretation of the future of fashion features Dyneema® Composite Fabric.

Using variations of the fabric in both white and black allowed Mandrino to bring his vision to life by merging skiwear, space suits and technology all in one. “ 3 Moncler Grenoble is first and foremost about performance,” states Mandrino, who integrated constructive solutions with fabric technology to develop a line that was meant to perform both on and off the ski slopes.

Dyneema®, the world’s strongest and lightest fiber, is 15 times stronger than steel yet light enough to float on water. The unmatched performance and protection of products made with Dyneema® have made it the material of choice in critical applications where failure is not an option for more than 30 years. In fabric form, Dyneema® is available in composites, denim, knits, wovens and hybrids for composite reinforcements. And because Dyneema® fabrics are made using Dyneema® fiber, they intrinsically provide high strength, low weight, waterproof and breathable properties – allowing designers to fuse the technical performance of ultra-light products with aesthetic design that doesn’t sacrifice strength or durability.

The Moncler team used the Grenoble collection as an opportunity to experiment and further understand the nature and behavior of Dyneema® fabrics, while simultaneously incorporating material performance with practical design. “Future collections will focus on expanding to new designs and fabric options in collaboration with DSM,” adds Mandrino.

“We are very excited to be working with the Moncler team to launch a collection of wonderful garments that allow people to explore the outdoors more safely and for longer periods of time,” states Marcio Manique, Global Business Director, Consumer & Professional Protection, DSM Protective Materials. “We look forward to further supporting Moncler as they develop innovative, high-tech garments that are also sustainably sourced through the introduction of bio-based Dyneema® fabrics.”

In line with DSM’s commitment to protect people and the environment they live in, the world’s first-ever bio-based ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber was introduced in May 2020. Bio-based Dyneema® boasts the same exact performance as conventional Dyneema® with a carbon footprint that is 90 percent lower than generic HMPE. DSM and Moncler’s continued partnership will not only provide high performance, light weight garments for outdoor enthusiasts but also environmentally sustainable alternatives that contribute to a more circular economy.

• Fabric finishing and sanforization systems installed in the US and Turkey to enhance productivity

ST. LOUIS - Baldwin Technology Company Inc. has successfully installed six new fabric finishing and sanforizing precision spray systems in the US and Turkey. Despite the COVID-19 pandemic, the installations were completed in just 60 days, thanks to close collaboration between onsite Baldwin textile team members, local agents and remote support from the company’s product and technology center in Sweden.
For textiles, non-wovens and technical textiles, Baldwin’s precision spray technology processes a wide range of low-viscosity water-based chemicals, such as softeners, anti-microbial agents, water repellents, oil  repellents, flame retardants and more.

These systems enable fabric producers to significantly reduce chemical and water consumption, while speeding up production times and eliminating production steps, including drying and bath changeovers when switching fabric colors. “Our customers are major manufacturers in fabric dying, finishing and remoistening, and we want to provide outstanding service and support—even in times like this,” said Rick Stanford, Business Development Leader at Baldwin and the commercial leader of the US installations. “Not only does our precision spray technology enhance productivity in their process, but there is also zero waste, which goes hand-in-hand with the increased sustainability focus in the textile industry.”

In North Carolina, two new TexCoat G4 precision spray systems are now in production with major international vertical manufacturers of outdoor living, performance fabrics and automotive fabrics. In Georgia, a major vertical manufacturer of workwear and protective fabrics installed a sanfor precision spray system, which has helped the customer obtain deeper penetration of moisture into fabrics treated with durable water repellents. In Turkey, three new TexCoat G4 systems were installed in Çorlu, northwest of Istanbul, for a large producer of knit fabrics, such as T-shirts. “In Turkey, the manufacturer purchased and installed one TexCoat G4 system before COVID-19, and the customer was so pleased with the results that, during the pandemic, three more were purchased,” said Simone Morellini, Sales Manager- EMEAR at Baldwin and the commercial leader of the Turkish installations. “The systems were manufactured and installed during the lockdown, and now, all four systems are up and running, and being used heavily on a daily basis.” “With the success we have seen, we plan to apply the same strategies for upcoming installations, including the next one in Honduras: strong local management and customer coordination, combined with  effective remote support during the installation,” said Stanford.

Optimum wool dyeing solution aligned to ZDHC MRSL standards

Singapore – Huntsman Textile Effects’ LANASOL® CE dyes, provide the industry with the sustainable alternative to after-chrome dyes for wool. LANASOL® CE dyes offer a consistent, safe and reliable dyeing process that can effectively replace chrome dyes for wool. This helps mills conform to ZDHC MRSL standards and meet the stringent requirements of global brands and retailers.
The use of Chrome VI, including Dichromate, is banned in the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL). Wool processors working for brands and retailers that have adopted ZDHC MRSL must therefore act quickly to finalize their chrome replacement developments.

Developed by Huntsman Textile Effects specifically to meet these challenges, LANASOL® CE is a state-of-the-art chrome-free dye range that allows mills to discontinue the use of after-chrome dyes. LANASOL® CE outperforms traditional after-chrome dyes across the board – at every level of dyeing and processing.

“LANASOL® CE dyes have always been recognized as the leading brand in the wool industry. Our innovative dyeing auxiliaries and successful dyeing systems with LANASOL® CE provide the highest technical performance, helping customers to protect the natural beauty of wool, achieve water, energy and time savings while rendering chrome dyes obsolete,” said Alessandro Larghi, Global Marketing Manager for Wool at Huntsman Textile Effects.

As a champion of a sustainable textile industry, Huntsman Textile Effects has long been a strong advocate for the shift away from after-chrome dyes. Huntsman Textile Effects first introduced LANASOL® CE in 1997, before the introduction of any regulation on the restricted use of dichromate.

Rester Oy, which is developing the plant in Paimio, recycles companies' end-of-life textiles, and Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto Oy (LSJH), which will hire a production area at the same facility, processes households' end-of-life textiles. The plant will process 12,000 tonnes of end-of-life textiles every year, which represents about 10% of Finland’s textile waste.

The textile industry’s end-of-life textile problem is intolerable. Natural resources are increasingly used to manufacture products, but these materials are lost at the end of their life cycle. About 100 million kilograms of textile waste are generated annually in Finland alone. Reusing this material could reduce the textile industry’s carbon footprint and significantly reduce the use of natural resources.

Rester Oy and LSJH will drive the textile sector towards a circular economy and begin processing textile waste as an industrial raw material. The Nordic countries’ first industrial end-of-textile refinement plant will open in Paimio in 2021. The 3,000-square-metre plant is being developed by Rester Oy, which recycles companies' end-of-life textiles and industrial waste materials. LSJH, which processes households’ end-of-life textiles on its production line, will hire part of the plant.

Outi Luukko, Rester Oy’s board chair, says, “The processing plant will begin a new era of textile circular economy in Finland. As industry pioneers, we are launching a system change in Scandinavia. The transition of the textile industry from a linear model to a circular economy is essential, as virgin materials cannot sustain the current structure of the textile industry. And why should it, when there is so much recyclable material available?”

From the perspective of Rester Oy’s main owner, work clothing supplier Touchpoint, the circular economy plant not only represents resource efficiency, but is also necessary from the perspective of the entire life cycle of a responsible work clothing collection.

Luukko adds, “Finding a local solution to a global problem is a huge leap in the right direction and raises Finland's profile as a pioneer of circular economy."

The future plant will be able to process 12,000 tonnes of end-of-life textiles annually, which represents about 10% of Finland’s textile waste. Both production lines produce recycled fibre, which can be used for various industrial applications, including yarn and fabric, insulating materials for construction and shipping industries, acoustic panels, composites, non-woven and filter materials, and other technical textiles, such as geo-textiles.

LSJH is piloting a full-scale refinement plant

LSJH has launched a pilot production line for processing households' end-of-life textiles. Unfortunately, consumers' end-of-life textiles are heterogeneous, making them a challenging raw material for further processing. Before processing, the textiles are sorted by material into various fibre classes using optical identification technology developed by LSJH and its partners. This ensures the quality of the raw material and the resulting fibre products.

Jukka Heikkilä, managing director for Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto, explains: “On the basis of the experiences gathered from the pilot project, Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto is preparing a full-scale refinement plant in the Turku region. As soon as 2023, the plant will process Finnish households' end-of-life textiles. The project involves all waste treatment plants owned by Finnish municipalities.”

Paimio has ambitious goals for circular economy companies

Rester’s initiative aims to create a circular economy cluster in Paimio that combines the processing and reuse of end-of-life textile fibres. Paimion Kehitys Oy, which is owned by the City of Paimio and the local association of enterprises, supports the development of circular economy companies in Paimio.

Mika Ingi, managing director for Paimion Kehitys Oy, says, “We want to step out of our traditional municipal role and create significant added value for everyone taking part. That is why we are involved in the development of a new modern service model based on ecosystem thinking. We are piloting the textile cluster, followed in the coming years by clusters focusing on plastic, construction, and energy. The aim of our service is to support and help develop new profitable business by bringing circular economy companies and their potential customers to innovate together."

The foundation stone of the processing plant was laid today (18 August 2020). The processing plant will begin operations in February 2021.

• Textile yarn manufacturer Fujian Billion kicks off industrial yarn production

Remscheid – from the end of this year, the southern Chinese yarn manufacturer Fujian Billion Polymerization Technology Industrial Co., Ltd. will be producing industrial yarns using systems supplied by Oerlikon Barmag. With this, the company – considered to be the largest polyester yarn manufacturer in southern China – is now also entering the industrial yarn market.

With 124 positions and a capacity of around 250,000 tons per annum, this project is the largest single industrial yarn order placed with Oerlikon Barmag to date. And with this order, the southern Chinese yarn manufacturer instantly positions itself as one of the ten largest Chinese industrial yarn producers. “The systems at Fujian Billion come with our latest draw unit design, which has been optimized for use with Oerlikon Barmag automation solutions”, comments Roy Dolmans, Head of Development for the Industrial Yarn Process. As a result, the newcomer in the industrial yarn sector is now superbly equipped for the future.

The well-known company – located in the Chinese Fujian Province – will be predominantly manufacturing high-tenacity (HT) and low-shrinkage (LS) yarns from the end of this year. These sophisticated yarns are deployed both in the automotive, geotextiles and safety sectors (HT yarns) and in the manufacture of coated industrial textiles such as truck tarpaulins and tents (LS yarns).

Founded in Jinjiang, Quanzhou, in 2003, Fujian Billion Polymerization Technology Industrial Co., Ltd. is one of the top 500 privately-owned enterprises in China. Annually, the yarn manufacturer produces around 2.8 million tons of filament yarn and ethylene-propylene side-by-side (ES) fibers.

Center of competence for hygiene established in Wiener Neudorf to support Austria and the EU in the Covid-19 crisis for the industrial production of high-quality protective masks with a monthly capacity of 12 million pieces.

Lenzing AG and Palmers Textil AG found “Hygiene Austria LP GmbH”, in which Lenzing AG holds 50.1% and Palmers Textil AG 49.9%. The newly founded company will start producing and selling protective masks for the domestic and European markets from May 2020.

Over the past few weeks, Lenzing AG and Palmers Textil AG have invested several million euros in a modern production infrastructure at the Wiener Neudorf location and secured the corresponding raw materials for protective masks production. In a first step, the company produces so-called mouth-nose protective masks (MNS) and surgical protective masks of class EN14683. Hygiene Austria LP GmbH plans to increase its capacities to over 25 million masks per month over the next few weeks and to expand this business geographically as well.

The demand for high-quality MNS and respiratory masks for medical personnel is increasing rapidly, and there is real competition on the international market for these products. In order to sustainably secure domestic supply now and in the future and to strengthen the business location, the two companies Lenzing AG and Palmers Textil AG have now set a milestone with their own competence center for hygiene based in Austria.

Hygiene Austria LP GmbH thus makes a significant contribution to combating the Covid-19 pandemic and ensures the long-term supply of these critical goods in Austria in high quality.

• Move is in line with global growth strategy with a strong focus in the Asia Pacific region
• Zhejiang plant will be able to produce 50,000 tons of nylon compounds annually in the longer term
• Plant will be located in the convenient transportation port area of DuShan Pinghu city

DOMO Chemicals, a leading producer of high - quality engineering materials for a diverse range of markets, has announced plans for a new state - of - the - art plant in Zhejiang, China. The new plant will be capable of producing 50,000 tons of sustainable and innovative engineered nylon compounds each year. The company signed a new factory project through “cloud contract” with PingHu DuShan port Economic Development District on February 20, 2020. Production is expected to commence in the fourth quarter of this year.

DOMO Chemicals will invest €12 million in the new plant, which will have more than 11,500 m 2-floor space. The company plans to install multiple production lines at the first stage of development, which would offer an estimated capacity of 25,000 tons/year. There will be enough additional space available to cope with future demand requirements. The move is in line with the company’s global growth strategy with a strong focus on the Asia Pacific (APAC) region.

• Investment of Rp. 15 trillion (USD1,1 billion) in facility
• Supports development of national textile industry and ‘Making Indonesia 4.0’ roadmap

The President of Indonesia, Joko Widodo, today inaugurated Indonesia's largest integrated viscose rayon production facility, injecting a boost for the country’s textile sector and the Indonesian Government’s industrial 4.0 development strategy.

The new Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) facility is located in the same production complex as APRIL Group in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau province, Sumatra. This co-location allows integrated operations where renewable plantation pulp supply from APRIL feeds directly to APR for viscose rayon production. The new operation represents a total investment of approximately Rp.15 trillion (USD1.1 billion).

The APR facility has an annual production capacity of 240,000 tons. The inauguration ceremony included the signing of a plaque by President Widodo and the symbolic sealing by the President of an export container with 10,190 tons of viscose rayon fibre for shipment to Turkey, one of APR’s key export markets, and another 12,000 tons to Central Java.

The ceremony was also graced by the Minister of Industry, Agus Gumiwang Kartasasmita, the Minister of Trade Agus Suparmanto, the Governor of Riau, Syamsuar, RGE Founder and Chairman Sukanto Tanoto, and Anderson Tanoto, Director, RGE.

Speaking at the inauguration, President Widodo welcomed APR's investment in the development of the national textile industry. The role of the private sector was influential in driving economic growth, alongside the stimulus provided by the Government, he said. “Our garment industry should be greater than Vietnam. We already have our own raw materials here, such as viscose rayon, to support the industry,” he said.

Economic Contribution
APR’s business aligns with President Jokowi's vision to encourage more value-added investment in the nation and the strengthening of the national textile and textile product (TPT) industry, as set out in the Making Indonesia 4.0 Road map. In addition, the production of viscose rayon will reduce dependence on the import of textile raw materials, particularly cotton, to meet domestic demand.

Agus Gumiwang Kartasasmita, Minister for Industry, said: “By optimising the availability and use of raw materials originating from Indonesia, we can boost the performance of our textile sector. This is just one of several steps we are taking to continue to improve the performance and competitiveness of the labour-intensive industry.”

Basrie Kamba, Director APR, said: “The presence of APR will have a positive impact on employment and business opportunities for small and medium-sized businesses in the upstream and downstream sectors of the textiles and textile products industry. We are honoured and grateful to President Jokowi for inaugurating our new facility”.

In addition to Turkey, APR’s products are exported to 14 other countries including key textile centres such as Pakistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Brazil, and various parts of Europe. The products also support an expanding Indonesia fashion industry.

It is estimated that APR may generate foreign exchange revenues exceeding Rp1.77 trillion (USD130 million) annually, and reduce dependence on imported raw materials by about Rp2.01 trillion (USD149 million) annually.

Sustainable Production
APR produces sustainable viscose rayon fiber from renewable, traceable and biodegradable raw materials. The company’s raw materials are supplied by APRIL Group, which is recognised as a responsible pulp producer through national (Timber Legality Verification System) and international (Program for the Endorsement of Forest Certification/PEFC) certifications.

APR is the first viscose rayon manufacturer in Indonesia to receive the internationally recognised STeP certification from OEKO-TEX ®, an independent Swiss-based certification organisation, for the responsible manufacturing of viscose staple fibre.

APR has launched the ‘Everything Indonesia’ campaign to promote the sustainable sourcing and production of fashion from Indonesia. The aim is to support Indonesia’s resurgence as a global centre for textile manufacturing, and catalyse home-grown fashion design and creativity.

Peruvian print business delivering DTG capabilities for prestigious apparel brands worldwide

Kornit Digital announced that Textil del Valle South America, a vertically integrated garment manufacturing company based in Peru, has chosen to implement Kornit’s digital direct-to-garment (DTG) printing technology at its 1.1 million-square-foot facility in Lima, Peru.

Textil del Valle services many of the world’s most prominent apparel brands, including global leaders in sports and athleisurewear.

“Kornit’s sustainable print technology provides the last piece of the puzzle, so we have the ‘full package’ for manufacturing the garment itself, imprinting it on demand based on the customer need, and shipping it ourselves, all from a single location,” said Juan Jose Cordova, General Manager at Textil del Valle. “Our market has been veering away from stocking shelves with inventory that may or may not sell, and the Kornit solution helps our business and customers eliminate that uncertainty and risk. We are the most sustainable textile plant in the world, and Kornit enables us to continue answering market demands in an efficient, responsible manner.”