From the Sector

AlphaTauri, Premium-Fashion Brand von Red Bull, launcht die neue Herbst / Winter 2023 Kampagne mit ausgewählten Red Bull Athleten. „Friends of the Brand“ von AlphaTauri erhalten so erstmalig eine Plattform im direkten Markenumfeld.

In der neuen AW23 Kampagne “Driven by” erzählen F1® Fahrer Yuki Tsunoda der Scuderia AlphaTauri, die Handballspielerin Tess Lieder sowie die Feldhockeyspielerin Anne Veenendaal, was sie antreibt.

Die Kampagne unterstützt die strategische Ausrichtung der Premium Fashion Brand, die globale Awareness der Marke sowie die Positionierung im Premium Lifestyle Bereich zu stärken.

Im Zentrum der Kampagne stehen drei Charaktere. Sie geben individuelle Einblicke in das, was sie motiviert, was Mode für sie bedeutet und was es heißt, Teil der AlphaTauri Familie zu sein. Die Protagonisten und deren Persönlichkeiten werden in reduzierter schwarz/weiß-Ästhetik portraitiert. Was die unterschiedlichen Individuen vereint, ist der stetige Anreiz zu bester Performance und Perfektion, sowie die Begeisterung für Innovationen. Die persönliche Einblicke der Talente repräsentieren gleichzeitig den Markenkern von AlphaTauri. Fotografiert wurde die neue Herbst / Winter 2023 Kampagne in London von dem Fotografen Laurent Humbert.

Die Kampagne unterstützt die strategische Ausrichtung der Premium Fashion Brand, die globale Awareness der Marke sowie die Positionierung im Premium Lifestyle Bereich zu stärken.

The Munich-based startup Sizekick launches a new technology and attracts well-known brands and retailers to reduce size-related returns in e-commerce. With the apparel technology know-how of the strategic partner and investor Hohenstein and the AI-based technology of Sizekick, more sustainable shopping in e-commerce with less CO₂ emissions will be made possible. The technology company is now celebrating a successful market entry: The newly developed sizing AI is now available for fashion e-commerce stores and is pleased about the first successfully acquired customers. The first customers to join the company include the Swiss multi-brand store for sustainable fashion, Rrrevolve, the premium outdoor brand Black Diamond from the USA, and Marc Cain, a global brand with German roots in the premium sector.

The solution promises to add value for both brands and consumers when shopping online by taking individual body measurements into account when recommending the right clothing size. The AI-based technology always offers two options to help arrive at the appropriate size recommendation. With BodyFinder, the AI suggests realistic body shapes to choose from. Alternatively, the video-based BodyScanner option enables a body scan via the smartphone's video function. All it takes to do this is to turn around in front of the phone's camera. Fashion brands and fashion retailers now have easy access to the new technology, as integration in the e-commerce store takes just a few minutes.

Hohenstein's expertise helped the Sizekick team to link accurate body measurements with the right product properties. Hohenstein is considered a leader in the field of size & fit and has been advising companies in the textile industry for over 75 years. The Sizekick fit analysis not only supports the brands' product teams, but is also used as direct input for Sizekick AI.

• Currency-neutral revenues flat versus the prior-year level
• Top-line development reflects improved sell-out trends and conservative sell-in strategy
• Gross margin up 0.6pp to 50.9%; strong improvement compared to Q1 reflecting better sell-through and less discounting
• Operating profit of € 176 million includes extraordinary expenses of around € 160 million related to one-off costs, donations and accruals for future donations
• Inventory position improves substantially versus Q1 level to € 5.5 billion; now up only 1% year-over-year

In the second quarter of 2023, currency-neutral revenues were flat versus the prior-year level. The top-line development continued to be impacted by the company’s conservative sell-in approach in order to reduce high inventory levels, particularly in North America and Greater China. At the same time, adidas second quarter revenues benefited from the first sale of some of its Yeezy inventory. The initial product drop in June generated revenues of around € 400 million in Q2, which is largely in line with the Yeezy sales generated in the prior year’s quarter.

Footwear revenues grew 1% during the quarter, reflecting strong growth in football, basketball, tennis and US sports. Apparel sales declined 3% in the second quarter. As the apparel market continues to be particularly overstocked, the company continued its conservative sell-in strategy to improve sell-through and margins in the medium term. Accessories grew 8% during the quarter driven by growth in football.  

Lifestyle revenues were down during the quarter despite extraordinary demand for the company’s Samba, Gazelle and Campus franchises. While adidas slowly started to scale its offering for these product families during the second quarter, the total volume still only represents a small portion of the company’s overall business. Sales in the adidas Performance categories continued to show positive momentum. This reflects strong demand for new product introductions such as the latest iterations of its Predator, X and Copa football boots, as well as jerseys for both the FIFA Women’s World Cup 2023 and the company’s unique portfolio of football teams ahead of the start of the European club season. In addition, the Adizero product family in running continued to gain a lot of attention around marathon races across the world, translating into higher demand. At the same time, the brand’s Barricade tennis franchise grew strongly, leveraging the excitement around major tournaments.

In euro terms, the company’s revenues declined 5% to € 5.343 billion in the second quarter (2022: € 5.596 billion).

Stronger sell-out trends and conservative sell-in
As a result of the company’s initiatives to reduce high inventory levels, currency-neutral sales in wholesale declined 10% despite double-digit growth in Greater China and Latin America. At the same time, direct-to-consumer (DTC) revenues grew 16% versus the prior year. This development was driven by strong growth in both the company’s e-commerce business (+14%) as well as own retail stores (+19%), reflecting continued strong sell-out trends across most regions. The outperformance of the company’s DTC channel versus the wholesale business was also related to the first sale of the Yeezy inventory, which was done exclusively through adidas’ own e-commerce channel.

Double-digit growth in Greater China and Latin America
Currency-neutral sales in North America declined 16% during the quarter. The region is particularly affected by elevated inventory levels in the market and – in response to this – the company’s significantly reduced sell-in. Revenues in Greater China grew 16% in Q2, reflecting double-digit sell-out growth in both wholesale and own retail. Sales in EMEA were down slightly (-1%) despite double-digit DTC growth. While the company’s initiatives to reduce inventory levels and discounting weighed on the overall top-line development in the region, adidas recorded significantly improving full-price trends during the quarter. Revenues in Asia-Pacific increased 7% during the quarter, driven by strong double-digit growth in DTC. Latin America continued to increase at a double-digit rate (+30%), reflecting strong growth in both wholesale and DTC.

Gross margin improves to 50.9%
The company’s second quarter gross margin increased 0.6 percentage points to 50.9% (2022: 50.3%). This improvement was mainly driven by price increases the company has implemented as well as by an improved channel mix. At the same time, higher supply chain costs and unfavorable currency movements continued to strongly weigh on the gross margin development. While still adversely impacting the company’s gross margin in the quarter, discounting levels significantly improved compared to the first quarter of the year.  

Operating profit of € 176 million, resulting in an operating margin of 3.3%
Other operating expenses were up 3% to € 2.582 billion (2022: € 2.501 billion). As a percentage of sales, other operating expenses increased 3.6 percentage points to 48.3% (2022: 44.7%). Marketing and point-of-sale expenses decreased 7% to € 617 million (2022: € 663 million). As a percentage of sales, marketing and point-of-sale expenses slightly decreased by 0.3 percentage points to 11.5% (2022: 11.8%). Operating overhead expenses were up 7% to € 1.965 billion (2022: € 1.838 billion), reflecting higher logistics expenses. In addition, the company recorded one-off costs of around € 50 million related to the strategic review the company is currently conducting as well as donations and accruals for further donations in an amount of around € 110 million. As a percentage of sales, operating overhead expenses increased 3.9 percentage points to 36.8% (2022: 32.8%). The company’s operating profit amounted to € 176 million (2022: € 392 million) in the quarter. This amount includes the extraordinary expenses of in total around € 160 million reflecting the one-off costs related to the strategic review as well as the donations and accruals for further donations. The sale of the Yeezy product positively impacted adidas’ operating profit by an incremental amount of around € 150 million in Q2. The operating margin reached 3.3% in the quarter (2022: 7.0%).

Net income from continuing operations of € 96 million
After taxes, the company’s net income from continuing operations amounted to € 96 million (2022: € 360 million), while basic EPS from continuing operations decreased to € 0.48 (2022: € 1.88).

Outlook

adidas expects revenues to decline at a mid-single-digit rate
On July 24, adidas had adjusted its full year financial guidance to reflect the positive impact of the first sale of some of its Yeezy inventory and a slightly better-than-expected development of the adidas business in the first half of the year. At the same time, macroeconomic challenges and geopolitical tensions persist. Elevated recession risks in North America and Europe as well as uncertainty around the recovery in Greater China continue to exist. In addition, the company’s revenue development will continue to be impacted by the initiatives to significantly reduce high inventory levels. As a result, adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues to decline at a mid-single-digit rate in 2023 (previously: decline at a high-single-digit rate).

Underlying operating profit anticipated to be around the break-even level
The company’s underlying operating profit – excluding any one-offs related to Yeezy and the ongoing strategic review – is still anticipated to be around the break-even level. Including the positive impact from the first Yeezy drop of around € 150 million, the potential write-off of the remaining Yeezy inventory of now € 400 million (previously: € 500 million) and one-off costs related to the strategic review of up to € 200 million (unchanged), the company now expects to report an operating loss of € 450 million in 2023 (previously: loss of € 700 million).

On August 2, the company launched a second drop of Yeezy inventory. Throughout the month of August, adidas is making a range of existing products available through both its own e-commerce channel as well as the digital platforms of selected wholesale partners. If successful, this second drop would further improve the company’s results. However, as the results of this drop are yet unknown, it is not accounted for in the company’s current top- and bottom-line outlook for 2023.

• Green Fashion community increasingly ‘thinking out of the box’

Networking and agility are in greater demand than ever – that was the conclusion at the close of the 52nd INNATEX which took place from 29 to 31 July 2023. 244 Green Fashion labels presented their collections to 1500 visitors at the international trade fair for sustainable textiles. Audience figures thus matched the level at the previous summer edition of the fair in 2022. With 244 brands, INNATEX again delivered remarkable variety, with many new exhibitors and fresh looks.

“We're pleased that our figures are remaining constant,” says Jens Frey, Managing Director of trade fair organiser MUVEO GmbH. “Undeniably, sustainable brands and the retail trade are currently living through a long period of challenges. But from our point of view, the Green Fashion sector is responding with extraordinary willpower and perseverance. Why? Out of a sense of conviction and because sustainability is the future.”

Future-related topics were also the subject of panel talks and personal discussions at various points. A key aspect was the urgent need for cooperation agreements and networks to open up new sales channels and fields of activity. Experts at the fair also recommended an honest review of business strategies that may have outlived their usefulness. As Dr Eva Stüber of Cologne’s Institute for Retail Studies (IFH Köln) points out, “The pandemic, the war of aggression, inflation, digitalisation – there are many factors prompting a change in lifestyles and demands. What is required now is creativity. Brands and retailers can exploit new potential by, for example, checking their ranges for market relevance, being sharper in their targeting, making shopping a social event, joining up with people from entirely different areas and not immediately rejecting apparently mad ideas.”

From August 20^th to 21^st, 2023, the INNATEX Showroom will take place in Bern.

The 53^rd INNATEX fair will be held from January 20^th to January 22^nd, 2024.

Biella Yarn’s new Fall/Winter 24/25 collection presents two collaborations. Both collaborations start with one common inspiration: with the clash of different cultures and the distant exotic markets. Rug making, fur-crafts and artisan hand work inspire patterns and textures which are translated into knitted fabrications and 3D designs.

MRC Knitwear Research Lab created these textures and patterns by using a small selection of very classic yarns and working them in special techniques to create rich textural fabrications. Each garment focuses on a special technique and combination of yarns and colours and show how versatile a single yarn can be.

The garments were knitted mainly with Victoria Nm 2/30 (100% Merino wool extrafine, 19.5 μ, anti-shrinkage). Victoria Nm 2/30 was used in an array of different techniques and on different gauges - from 14gg ribs, that have a beautiful drape to more tactile fabrics such as 3-dimensional stitches on 12gg and heavily patterned inlay jacquards on the 14gg Shima Seiki SRY. Within these inlay jacquard’s BaltoroPro Nm 2/28 (70% Merino wool extrafine, 19.5 μ, anti-shrinkage 30% Polyester GRS High Bulk) was selected as an inlay yarn - a special wool blend which helps create bulky 3-dimensional fabrications that remain lightweight. The classic Brisbane Nm 2/60 (100% Merino wool Superfine, 17.5 μ, anti-shrinkage) and new boucle yarn Fluffy Nm 14 000 (81% Merino wool extrafine, 19.5 μ, anti-shrinkage, 19% Polyamide) were worked together in fine plush jacquards to give an effect of shaved patchwork furs.

The structures and patterns were transitioned into the world of 3D designs by Shima Seiki Italia. The design software APEXFiz®, developed by Shima Seiki, not only allows for shaping but also converts them into knitted patterns. By replacing physical samples, virtual samples reduce time costs, and materials that would otherwise be wasted. Yarnbank®, Shima Seiki's platform for yarn and spinning research, has been the primary source of Suedwolle Group's digitized yarns used in the 3D models.

PrimaLoft, Inc., a leader in advanced material technology, is expanding its  Active Insulation Range by adding four new Active Evolve styles, reaffirming its commitment to providing cutting-edge solutions that meet the evolving needs of consumers.

Originally launched in 2018, PrimaLoft Active Evolve is a line of insulating fabrics that is designed to evolve performance, design, and sustainability. Combining the lightweight warmth of insulation with the breathability of fabric, this technology is developed to perform in a wide range of activities, regardless of intensity or season. From pushing yourself during a cross country ski tour, to working up a sweat hiking to the next peak, PrimaLoft Active Evolve keeps you in your comfort zone – even when you’re pushing yourself out of it.

Several products in the Active Evolve line can be used as a next-to-skin fabric. This enables brands to forego liner fabrics, which means heat and moisture are more efficiently managed, breathability is supported, and user comfort is maintained. In addition to achieving optimal performance during aerobic activity, this yields a wider utility and year-round use, all while allowing brands to use less overall material when designing a garment, reducing footprint and waste.

PrimaLoft Active Evolve offers several advantages to designers. It enables them to utilize the full spectrum of color, incorporate unique patterns, and provides greater flexibility in fabric selection. Additionally, Active Evolve eliminates the need for quilting in the design process. Products within the Active Evolve line are made from up to 100% post-consumer recycled content, including three of the four new styles.

With more than a dozen brand adoptions thus far, PrimaLoft Active Evolve’s adaptability for the user, range of use across activities, and seasonal timing, is quickly making this one of the most versatile products in the PrimaLoft portfolio. For Fall/Winter 2023-2024, key partner brands beside Sitka and Löffler will include CP Company, Eddie Bauer, Endura, Martini Sportswear, OMM, Quiksilver, Ziener and more.

Die Spezialisten in der Hutbranche sind zufrieden bzw. sehr zufrieden mit dem ersten Halbjahr 2023. Nach der schwierigen, wetterbedingten Situation im Frühling, entwickelten sich der Juni und auch der Juli sensationell gut. Wichtigstes Verkaufsthema war der UV-Schutz für den Kopf. Laut Blitz-Umfrage des Hutverbandes GDH erzielte der Deutsche Hutfachhandel ein Umsatzplus in Höhe von 9,4 % im Vergleich zum Vorjahreshalbjahr. Vor allem der stationäre Umsatz war dafür verantwortlich, zu Lasten des Onlineverkaufs.

„Die meisten unserer Mitglieder haben die Umsätze von vor Corona getoppt. Das ist sehr erfreulich“, bestätigt Angela Breiter, Vorsitzende der Gemeinschaft deutsche Hutfachgeschäfte e.V. (GDH). Die Mitinhaberin des traditionsreichen Hut- und Modeunternehmens Breiter in München leitet seit zwei Jahren den Hutverband, der vor 70 Jahren gegründet wurde.
 
Hutbranche traf sich zum Messe-Get-together in Düsseldorf
„Der Termin in Düsseldorf ist genau richtig für unsere Branche, um sich zu informieren “, so Angela Breiter. „Wir können an einem Ort die wichtigsten Lieferanten besuchen, können Partnerschaften vertiefen und haben eine gute Trendanalyse über das Angebot und lernen noch neue Lieferanten kennen.“ Siegfried Seidl (Hut Mayer, Neuötting), Vize-Vorsitzender der GDH, fügt hinzu: „Erfreulicherweise sind die Preissteigerungen durch Energie-, Logistik- und gestiegenen Personalkosten der letzten Jahre vorerst gebremst. Einige Lieferanten sind kreativ, zum Beispiel durch Paper-Panamas, um die enorm gestiegenen, wenn auch faireren Preisen, im Bereich Panama auszugleichen, denn die werden in Ecuador in Wochen und Monaten in Handarbeit hergestellt. Nicht jede Kundin oder jeder Kunde kann sich einen Panamahut von 150 oder mehr Euro leisten.“
 
Trend-Thema: Funktion in allen Facetten
Leger und unkompliziert praktisch muss es für die Träger sein. Viele Qualitäten sind weich oder rollbar und bleiben auch aus dem Koffer oder aus der Tasche gezogen in Form. Wasserfeste Hüte kommen als Trilbys und Mützen daher oder als hippe Traveller für die Streetwork-Szene und nicht zuletzt als knallige Regenhütte in Lack. Mega-Thema ist UV-Schutz. Der Schutz vor zu viel Sonne wird aufgrund des Klimawandels mit steigenden Temperaturen immer wichtiger. Zahlreiche Lieferanten bieten zertifizierte UV-Schutz bis zu 80 an. Das erlaubt einen bis zu 80-mal längeren Aufenthalt in der Sonne. „Ein bedeutendes Umsatzthema für den Sommer“, betont Angela Breiter. „Wir als Verband unterstützen unsere Mitglieder mit einer erfolgreichen UV-Schutzkampagne für den POS.“

Trend-Thema: Materialien, Muster und Farbe
Sommerhüte in Stroh oder Strohborte werden durch weiches Raffia in allen Formen und Farben ergänzt, auch wenn Naturtöne das stärkste Verkaufsthema sind. Seidig, edel und komfortabel zu tragen sind Mützen aus Seide; verschiede Lieferanten haben das Thema neben Leinen und Baumwolle ausgebaut. Karos, Streifen, Mustermix, Patchwork: Alles ist möglich. Super leicht und dennoch robust und zudem nachhaltig, weil nachwachsend, ist Hanf. Ein Thema, das jetzt auch verstärkt in der Herrenhutmode umgesetzt wird. Generell ist Nachhaltigkeit von Bedeutung und findet sich in den Stoffen oder Futter aus recycelten oder ökologischen Materialien wider.

Three strong women, each different from the other, but who have managed to leave their mark on the history and evolution of the female role, and despite living in different eras, have left an indelible mark on society: Madame De Pompadour, nicknamed Reinette, the favourite of King Louis XV, Luisa Amman, called Corè by the great poet Gabriele D'Annunzio, and the iconic Vivienne Westwood, Miss Viv.
The three women are the FOREVER ICONS chosen and celebrated Iluna, where each woman becomes the protagonist of a “traveling exhibition” that will accompany Iluna between events and fairs.

Reinette
The nickname "Reinette" belonged to Madame De Pompadour, the favourite of King Louis XV. She had a significant influence in politics, arts, and fashion, shaping the style of the first half of the 18th century. Beauty and grace are represented in a floral theme, featuring small romantic details that become opulent with the use of lurex and golden cords. The color palette is soft, muted, and powderyry.

Corè
Luisa Amman, born in the late 19th century into a wealthy bourgeois family, married at a young age and became Marchesa Casati. "Corè" is the endearing nickname given to her by her lover Gabriele D'Annunzio, inspired by Kore, the Queen of the Underworld. She was a patron of the arts, an eccentric and transgressive collector. This theme celebrates opulence, from peacock feathers to Liberty-style designs in deep colours and warm metallic glimmers. An innovative proposal for the theme is the pleating technique, achieved directly in the weaving process of the Ultralight jacquardtronic laces.

Miss Viv
Vivienne Westwood, an extraordinary protagonist with an intense and irreverent life. Her insights have forever marked fashion and transformed the general standards of dressing. Rock and rebellious, she drew inspiration from street trends, anticipating avant-garde movements. In the 1990s, she brought back Tartan, mixing it with sensual roses in a maximalism that went against the prevailing trends, featuring vibrant colours. At the beginning of the third millennium, she grasped the importance of preserving the planet and left us with a motto that is more urgent and relevant than ever: "Buy Less, Choose Well, Make it Last." Within this theme, there is a new GRS-certified print that saves water, applied to ultra-fine Lurex nets, which are also certified.

Epson setzt seine Partnerschaft mit dem japanischen Modedesigner YUIMA NAKAZATO und seiner gleichnamigen Modemarke fort. Beide Unternehmen, die sich stark für mehr Nachhaltigkeit in der Modebranche einsetzen, schufen eine neue Couture-Kollektion, die am 5. Juli im Rahmen der Haute Couture Fashion Week im Pariser Palais de Tokyo präsentiert worden ist. Die neue Kollektion wurde größtenteils mittels eines neuen nachhaltigen Fertigungsprozesses für Textilfasern (Dry Fiber Technology) sowie eines digitalen Druckverfahrens hergestellt.

Die Epson Dry Fiber-Technologie, die praktisch ohne den Einsatz von Wasser auskommt und bereits für die Herstellung von Recyclingpapier genutzt wird, ist in ihrer letzten Entwicklungsstufe auch für die Produktion von Geweben aus gebrauchter Kleidung nutzbar. Dieser Fertigungsprozess für Textilfasern wurde bereits im Januar dieses Jahres anlässlich der dreijährigen Zusammenarbeit zwischen Epson und YUIMA NAKAZATO vorgestellt.

Die neue Couture-Reihe, die im Palais de Tokyo ausgestellt wird, wurde mit einem Epson Monna Drucker bedruckt. Dies ist der Prototyp eines flexibel einsetzbaren digitalen DTG-Druckers, der mit seiner Pigmenttinte eine Vielzahl von Geweben und Oberflächen bedruckt. Das Material, aus dem die neue Modelinie von YUIMA NAKAZATO erschaffen wurde, stammt von getragenen Kleidungsstücken aus Afrika, der Endstation vieler Altkleider. Nakazato besuchte zu diesem Zweck Kenia und erwarb dort etwa 150 Kilogramm gebrauchter Kleidungsstücke, die sonst auf einem der dortigen „Kleiderberge“ gelandet wären, die nicht zuletzt aus Altkleidern aus der EU bestehen. Der Epson Dry Fiber-Prozess verarbeitet dieses Material und produzierte so mehr als 150 Meter neuen Vliesstoff. Dieser wurde dann von einem Epson Monna Lisa-Drucker bedruckt2.

‘Best of Bangladesh’ -- the first ever sole ‘Made in Bangladesh’ show in Europe -- aims to open the doors for Europe to experience what the Bangladeshi industries has to offer.

As Bangladesh celebrates five decades of strong ties with Europe, in order to further strengthen the ties and deepen collaborations with the partners across Europe, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange, supported by the Bangladesh Embassy in the Netherlands, is organizing the event in Amsterdam, Netherlands on September 4th and 5th, 2023.

The ‘Best of Bangladesh’ aims to serve as a dynamic platform to showcase the progress and potential across diverse sectors of Bangladesh economy, especially manufacturing.

A total of 40 Bangladeshi companies each of which is the country’s best from apparel, textile, leather, Agro, jute, handicrafts, pharmaceutical, light engineering, digital industry, FMCG and bicycle will showcase their sustainable and innovative products in the Best of Bangladesh.  

Bangladesh economy ranks as the world’s 37th largest now and it’s rapidly-expanding. The ‘Best of Bangladesh’ is being organized to accelerate interests and burgeoning engagements between the entrepreneurs and private sector entities on both European and Bangladeshi sides. The event has been structured to serve as a platform to showcase the multifaceted progress made and potential across diverse sectors of Bangladesh’s economy.

There will be an inaugural and 7 interactive panel sessions at the Best of Bangladesh on the topics ‘Bangladesh – Perspectives From An Emerging Economy’, ‘Bangladesh - Your Sustainable Sourcing Destination’, ‘Empowering the Future: Advancing Safety & Well-being for Garments Workforce in Bangladesh’, ‘Bangladesh Agro-Food: A Next Opportunity for Collaboration’, ‘Impact Investing - The Next Frontier’, ‘Sustainable Synergy: Circular Economy, Climate Action & Bangladesh’s Future’, and ‘Digitization and Digital Economy in Bangladesh’.