From the Sector

Vier Studierende von Optima haben vom 28. Februar bis 2. März 2024 beim Smart Green Island Makeathon auf Gran Canaria teilgenommen. Gemeinsam haben sie Prototypen für intelligente Landwirtschaft, automatisierte Systeme für die Lagerhaltung sowie einen nachhaltigen Umgang mit Batterien entwickelt. Bei dem Makeathon konnten die jungen Talente ihr Wissen ausbauen und neue Kontakte knüpfen. Bei der jährlich stattfindenden Veranstaltung waren in diesem Jahr 587 Teilnehmende aus 47 Nationen dabei.

Die beiden Studenten Jannick Besler und Luca Mitrenga haben sich für die Challenge „Smart Home Farming“ entschieden, also intelligente Landwirtschaft für zu Hause. Ein Teil der Challenge bestand daraus, eine automatische Bewässerungsanlage für Pflanzen mit Hilfe von PET-Flaschen zu installieren. Wer in der Großstadt wohnt und keinen eigenen Garten hat, soll sich mit der automatischen Bewässerung ein Hochbeet in den eigenen vier Wänden schaffen können. Dafür hat das Team ein vertikales System entwickelt, in dem PET-Flaschen mit den Pflanzen befüllt und an der Wand befestigt werden. Die Pflanzen werden durch Leitungen von unten mit Wasser besprüht.

Der zweite Teil ihrer Challenge war die Entwicklung einer automatisierten Zustandsanalyse. Dafür entnimmt ein Roboter die Pflanze aus der PET-Flasche und führt sie auf ein lineares Transportsystem mit Magnetantrieb. Eine installierte Kamera erkennt dann die Art der Pflanze, ob und welche Früchte sie trägt und ob sie von Schädlingen befallen ist. So eignet sich das automatisierte System auch für landwirtschaftliche Prozesse.

Student Jeremy Wolf entwickelte mit seinem Team ein automatisiertes System für intelligente Lagerhaltung mit Hilfe von einem 6-Achs-Roboter. „Im Vergleich zu den anderen Teams haben wir unsere Chancen auf eine herausstechende Lösung eher gering eingeschätzt. Trotzdem haben wir uns nicht unterkriegen lassen“, erzählt er. „Die Sponsoren waren am Ende so stark von unserer Idee und Entwicklung begeistert, dass sie uns empfohlen haben, an einem weiteren Contest ihres Unternehmens teilzunehmen. Sie meinten, unsere Chancen auf den Hauptpreis stehen hoch.“

Shafira Andhinin Tiyan studiert nachhaltige Energiesysteme und absolviert ein Praktikum in der Nachhaltigkeitsabteilung von Optima. Beim Makeathon wählte sie die Challenge zu einem nachhaltigen Thema aus: Recycling von Batterien für die Kreislaufwirtschaft. Shafira und ihr Team entwickelten einen Prototyp, der die Restenergie von verbrauchten Batterien in einer Wasserstoffstation wiederverwendet und daraus Wasserstoffenergie erzeugt.

Together with Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) and the cotton company MMP Agro, the GoodTextiles Foundation is realising a project to improve the drinking water supply in Uganda, Africa. Bio-sand-waterfilters are being installed to gently purify the water from existing sources. In addition, the partners are training the community's farmers and craftsmen in how to operate the water filters. They then learn how to build new water filters.

In 2016, the textile company Dibella established the GoodTextiles Foundation with the aim of making textile value chains more sustainable. It raises donations and implements its own funding projects to benefit people at all stages of the textile industry.

As part of a joint project between the GoodTextiles Foundation, the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) (owner of the CmiA standard) and MMP Agro, farmers who grow CmiA cotton in the districts of Abim, Kaplebyong, Dokolo and Kaberamaido in north-east Uganda are now receiving a total of around 1,000 bio-sand-waterfilters. Around 1,000 CmiA farmers, mainly women and the members of their households (an estimated 10,000 community members) benefit from this.

Members of TMAS – the Swedish textile machinery association – will display technologies in alignment with the theme of digitalisation at the forthcoming Techtextil and Texprocess 2024 exhibitions, taking place in Frankfurt from April 23-26th.

Automatic handling
The fully automated and digitised handling solutions for finished garments, home textiles and furniture of Eton Systems, for example, will be demonstrated at Texprocess.

Designed to increase value-added time in production by eliminating manual transportation and minimising handling, the individually addressable product carriers are fully managed and controlled by the latest ETONingenious™ software. This web based real-time data collection and information system continuously accumulates, processes and makes all production information instantly available to supervisors, quality control personnel and management.

Bespoke seams
Svegea will demonstrate its EC 300-XS colarette technology, which is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements.

The EC 300-XS collarette cutter on show in Frankfurt is equipped with the latest E-Drive II system providing the operator with a very user-friendly touchscreen, providing full control of the cutting process. An accompanying FA 350 fully automatic roll slitting machine will also be demonstrated.

Digital finishing
At Techtextil meanwhile, Baldwin Technology Co. will provide full details of how its highly digitised TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology for textile finishing and remoistening not only reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption, but also provides the flexibility to adapt to customer requirements in terms of single and double-sided finishing applications.

TexCoat G4 can reduce water consumption and chemical usage by as much as 50% compared to traditional padding application processes.

Yarn tension
Celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, Eltex will display the latest Eltex EyETM system for the continuous monitoring of yarn tension on warp beams.

The Eltex EyETM eliminates problems when warping, and also in subsequent weaving or tufting processes, monitoring the yarn tension on all positions in real-time and enabling a minimum and maximum allowable tension value it be set. If any yarn’s tension falls outside these values the operator can be warned or the machine stopped.

The Eltex ACT and ACT-R units meanwhile go beyond yarn tension monitoring to actually control yarn tension. This extends the application range greatly. The plug and play system automatically compensates for any differences in yarn tension that arise, for example from irregularities in yarn packages.

Accumulated know-how
Vandewiele Sweden AB benefits from all of the synergies and accumulated know-how of Vandewiele Group, supplying weft yarn feeding and tension control units for weaving looms to the majority of weaving machine manufacturers. It also retrofits its latest technologies to working mills to enable instant benefits in terms of productivity and control.

The company will present its latest X4 yarn feeders with integrated accessory displays (TED) as a new standard, as well as launching its own e-commerce platform – iroonline.com.

The TED function enables weft tension settings to be transferred from one machine to another, enabling a fast start-up the next time the same article is woven. The position of the S-Flex Tensioner is constantly monitored by an internal sensor – even if adjustment is made during power off.

X4 feeders are also available with integrated active tension control (ATC-W) as an option. With the ATC-W active tension control, the required tension is easily set and monitored on the integrated display. Once set, the system constantly regulates itself, ensuring consistent yarn tension during the weaving process which is constantly and accurately measured by the ATC sensor unit, sending a signal to the ATC operator unit resulting in consistently stable yarn tension at the required level.

A new promotional initiative aims to boost trade relations between Italy and India in the textile sector. 11 Italian textile machinery manufacturers will be taking part in the forthcoming technological symposia scheduled in New Delhi and Mumbai from 9 to 12 April. The two events, organized by the Italian Trade Agency and supported by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, will allow Italian companies to showcase their technologies to a selected audience of Indian textile entrepreneurs.

The textile sector is of great significance in the Indian economy, contributing more than 2% of the GDP and allowing the Country to be among the largest exporter of textile and apparel items. Moreover India represents the third largest foreign market for the Italian textile machinery industry.

In 2022 India imported Italian textile machinery for a total value of about 200 million euro. Referring to the first 9 months of 2023, the value shows a slight decrease compared to the value for the same period of the previous year, but the forecast for the current year remains positive.

Italian companies participating in the symposia, all of which are ACIMIT members, are: Autefa, Cubotex, Danitech, Lafer, Mcs, Monti-Mac, Reggiani Macchine, Salvadè, Savio, Sicam, Testa.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) is showcasing solutions for the automotive, building, apparel, filtration and packaging industries at this year’s Techtextil in Frankfurt am Main from April 23 – 26.

Sustainable nonwoven for car seats
One innovation highlight at Techtextil is a novel Polyester nonwoven material for car seat padding. Also available as a nonwoven composite with PU foam, it is not only easier for car seat manufacturers to handle during the mounting process, but also ensures better dimensional stability as well as providing soft and flexible padding. It has a minimum 25 percent recycled content, for example, by reusing nonwoven clippings and waste, and is fully recyclable. Full supply chain transparency enables customers to trace and verify the content of the nonwoven and thus ensures a responsible production process. The Freudenberg experts will also be presenting several other nonwoven solutions made of up to 80 percent recycled materials that can be used in car seat manufacturing.

Biocarrier for green roofs
Freudenberg is showcasing a sustainable carrier material for green roofs on urban buildings at the trade fair. The carrier is made from polylactide, i.e. from renewable resources. When filled with soil, it provides a strong foothold to root systems, enabling the growth of lightweight sedum blankets that can be rolled out to provide instant green roofs. These roofs not only help counter urban heat, they also improve stormwater management and regulate indoor temperatures.

From textile waste to padding
The company extended its circular thermal wadding product range with the release of comfortemp® HO 80xR circular, a wadding made from 70 percent recycled polyamide from discarded fishing nets, carpet flooring and industrial plastic. Because polyamide 6, also known as nylon, retains its performance characteristics after multiple recycling processes, the fibers can be used again and again to manufacture performance sporting apparel, leisurewear and luxury garments.

Packaging solutions with various sustainability benefits
Freudenberg is also showcasing products for sustainable packaging and filtration solutions. The long-lasting Evolon® technical packaging series is a substitute for disposable packaging used in the transport of sensitive industrial items such as automotive parts. The material is made from up to 85 percent recycled PET. A further highlight at Techtextil are Freudenberg’s fully bio-based solutions for manufacturing dessicant bags. The binder-free material based on bio-fibers is also industrially compostable.
In addition, the experts will be giving trade fair visitors an insight into Freudenberg’s filtration portfolio.

Luca Faloni, eine italienische Marke für Herrenmode, ernennt Barabino & Partners zu ihrem Kommunikationsberater für den deutschen und US-amerikanischen Markt. Barabino & Partners, ein führendes PR-Unternehmen in Italien, hat sich zum Ziel gesetzt, die Präsenz der Marke zu stärken und die Kunstfertigkeit sowie den Handwerksansatz von Luca Faloni durch seine Büros in Berlin, München und New York international zu fördern.

Das 2014 gegründete Unternehmen Luca Faloni produziert hochwertige und luxuriöse Herrenmode. Die Marke bezieht natürliche Materialien wie Leinen, Kaschmir, Baumwolle und Leder von regional ansässigen Handwerkern in Italien.

Representatives from all 43 European partners of RegioGreenTex met for the Annual Consortium Meeting, hosted by CITEVE – the Portuguese Centre for textile innovation.

Co-funded by the European Union I3 Instrument Programme, RegioGreenTex is a €13 million project to promote investments in textile circularity. Research centres, regional clusters, regional development agencies and 26 SMEs collaborate to realise unique pilot projects to transform the textile industry business model from linear to circular.
 
The annual consortium meeting is a pivotal point to assess the project’s progress and impact. Presentations and workshops have been an essential part of the meeting, along with  networking opportunities where partners created synergies and discussed common challenges. Furthermore, all SME partners showcased their results through an exhibition with samples of garments, yarns, fabrics and products: the outcome of the project’s innovation so far. New collaborations and partners are expected to flourish as another outcome and the meeting.

EURATEX, as project coordinator, ensures the successful implementation of this ambitious initiative. Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, commented: “RegioGreenTex is an essential piece of our wider plan to implement the EU Sustainable Textile Strategy. Offering investment support to our SMEs is critical to make this green transition a success.”

Der Arbeitgeber- und Wirtschaftsverband Südwesttextil hat das Gebäude TEXOVERSUM in der vergangenen Woche offiziell an das zuständige Amt für Vermögen und Bau in Tübingen übergeben. Im direkten Anschluss wurde es der Fakultät Textil als Nutzer des Gebäudes zugeteilt. Südwesttextil spendet das Gebäude mit einer Investitionssumme von 18,5 Millionen Euro an das Land Baden-Württemberg für den Campus der Hochschule Reutlingen. Damit ist rund drei Jahre nach Spatenstich der Weg geebnet für die Nutzung durch die TEXOVERSUM Fakultät Textil der Hochschule und den Beginn des Live-Betriebs.

Das TEXOVERSUM erweitert die Vielfalt der textilen Möglichkeiten auf dem Campus und stärkt damit den Standort. Fast 3.000 Quadratmeter Fläche für moderne Werkstätten und Labore, Platz für die international renommierte Gewebesammlung der Hochschule Reutlingen sowie Think-Tank-Flächen und Unterrichtsräume für ein umfassendes Lernumfeld machen das mit einer innovativen Fassade versehene Gebäude einzigartig. Hier werden ab sofort Studierende, Auszubildende sowie Industrie und Forschung zusammenkommen, um die Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie gemeinsam zu gestalten.

Mit der traditionellen Erstsemesterbegrüßung startete der Live-Betrieb und die Nutzung des Gebäudes zum Sommersemester 2024. Dekan Prof. Dr. Jochen Strähle hieß insbesondere die Neu-Studierenden herzlich an der Fakultät und in der TEXOVERSUM-Community willkommen. Dabei betonte Strähle die historische Bedeutung der Veranstaltung und den damit verbundenen Start der Nutzung des TEXOVERSUMs durch die Fakultät und Hochschule in seiner kurzen Ansprache: „Aus Vision wurde Wirklichkeit – wir sind sehr glücklich, bewegt und stolz, ab heute nicht nur die visionäre Dachmarke TEXOVERSUM tagtäglich zu leben und weiterzuentwickeln, sondern von nun an auch das Gebäude TEXOVERSUM mit Leben und Visionen für die gesamte Textilbranche zu füllen.“

Zum Tag der offenen Tür der Hochschule Reutlingen am 04. Mai 2024 wird das TEXOVERSUM voraussichtlich erstmals in Teilen für die interessierte Öffentlichkeit zugänglich sein.

Baldwin Technology Co. will join Elmatex GmbH at Techtexil (April 23-26 in Frankfurt, Germany) to demonstrate its TexCoat™ G4 precision spray finishing system.

With Baldwin’s system, the chemistry is precisely distributed across the textile surface and is applied only where it is required, on one or both sides of the fabric. The non-contact technology eliminates chemistry dilution in wet-on-wet processes, allowing full control of maintaining consistent chemistry coverage rates. Plus, pad bath contamination is eliminated, and changeovers are only required when there is a change of finish chemistry.
 
Furthermore, the system offers automated speed tracking, fabric-width compensation, and real-time monitoring to track system uptime, performance and chemistry usage, as well as active care alerts.
 
In addition, the TexCoat™ G4 system can process a wide range of low-viscosity water-based chemicals, such as durable water repellents, softeners, antimicrobials, flame retardants and more. Baldwin’s technology utilizes the same chemicals used in the traditional pad bath, and no special auxiliaries are required. The recipe is adjusted by increasing the concentration and reducing the pickup by a corresponding amount, so that the same level of solids is applied.
 
Some applications, such as durable water repellents, are only applied on the face of the fabric, instead of the traditional method of saturation through dipping and squeezing. Drier fabric entering the stenter means lower drying temperatures and faster process speeds. Single-side applications also open up the opportunity to process back-coated or laminated fabrics in a single pass of the stenter, instead of two passes.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has collaborated with PDS Ventures to launch a new Trailblazer Programme. The new initiative seeks to identify early-stage innovators and support them on their journey to scale.

As part of the Trailblazer Programme, PDS Ventures will award one innovator a significant investment of up to USD 200,000* to accelerate the company’s growth and positive impact in the fashion industry. The winner will also receive commercial and operational support from PDS Group’s Positive Materials - a textile company and strategic research partner supporting the development and acceleration of low impact textile innovation through collaboration between early-stage start-ups, supply chain partners and brands. Further scaling opportunities will be gained through access to PDS Limited’s extensive global supply chain.
 
GFA and PDS Ventures are presenting an open call for solution providers addressing different challenges across the fashion value chain to apply for the programme. Applicants will be reviewed and shortlisted by an esteemed Jury including representatives from GFA, PDS Ventures, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Ralph Lauren Corporation, Fashion For Good and H&M Group. Eight shortlisted innovations will be enrolled in a group of Trailblazers, receiving feedback and investment pitch training from industry experts and PDS representatives.     
 
Each shortlisted innovator will then pitch for a potential investment, with the winning Trailblazer being revealed at GFA’s Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2024 - an international forum for sustainability in fashion, on 22-23 May at the Copenhagen Concert Hall. All shortlisted Trailblazers will also have the opportunity to showcase their businesses within an exhibit at the Summit to connect with other key industry stakeholders and potential investors.
 
The Trailblazer Programme corresponds with the theme of the upcoming Global Fashion Summit - ‘Unlocking The Next Level’. Inspired by a significant milestone, 2024 marks 15 years since the inaugural Global Fashion Summit was hosted in 2009. This pivotal anniversary offers a special moment to not only take stock of the evolution of the sector and the progress made so far, but, most importantly, look ahead at what actions must urgently be implemented in the near term, and the gaps that must be filled to accelerate industry transformation.