From the Sector

• GOTS Version 7.0 released
• GOTS certified entities grow by 8% and expand to 89 countries
• GOTS releases Due Diligence Handbook for certified entities
• Farm-Gin Registry implemented in India, creating a direct link and better evaluation of incoming data
• GOTS collaborates with European Space Agency and Marple for AI organic cotton project
• #Behindtheseams campaign reaches 21 million+ unique individuals

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), managed by non-profit Global Standard, recognises 2023 as a year of significant milestones. From expansion of GOTS-certified facilities to the release of a new standard version, GOTS remained a beacon for businesses navigating changing legislation, social and environmental demands.

Coming out of one of the strongest years for GOTS, 2023 culminated with 25 GOTS-approved certification bodies reporting a noteworthy 14,676 certified facilities (an 8% growth from 2022) in 89 countries.

Ushering in GOTS Version 7.0
As of 1 March, facilities that become GOTS-certified will operate under the new GOTS Version 7.0, released in March 2023 with a one-year transition period. GOTS Version 7.0 and its accompanying Implementation Manual provides a comprehensive solution for companies who want to produce organic textiles and be supported to ensure compliance with environmental and human rights due diligence along the entire value chain, from field to finished product.

GOTS Version 7.0 also introduced a six-step due diligence process and handbook that equips GOTS-certified operations to proactively identify, assess and mitigate adverse impacts throughout their value chains.

Looking to the future
GOTS initiated in 2023 two major projects in India, the globe’s largest producer of organic cotton. The Farm-Gin Registry was introduced for the 2022-2023 harvest season, which acts as a link between farm and gin and is a tool to strengthen integrity by collecting organic raw seed cotton data producing farm or farm group.

GOTS, the European Space Agency (ESA) and software company Marple launched a new project that aims to show the potential for remote satellite monitoring of organic cotton cultivation systems. The project trained artificial intelligence (AI) to use ESA satellite data to detect cotton fields across India and automatically classify them according to their cultivation standard. By integrating standardised yield metrics, this innovative approach will enable GOTS to generate realistic estimates of organic cotton yields in specific areas. In addition, the project is expected to empower GOTS to recognise cotton fields that have not yet obtained organic certification but possess the potential for a transition to organic cultivation. The first results of the project will be announced in June.

Educating the consumer
GOTS, in its ongoing commitment to stakeholder education, orchestrated in November an immersive 360-degree awareness and educational campaign. Successfully engaging both consumers and industry professionals, the initiative shined a spotlight on GOTS-certified companies and their products, which empowered consumers to make more conscientious choices while shopping. With an impressive turnout of over 250 certified entities, the campaign made a significant global impact, reaching more than 21 million unique individuals worldwide.

Cascale, a non-profit alliance for driving impact in consumer goods (formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition), announces Colin Browne as its new Chief Executive Officer, effective May 1, 2024.

Browne previously served as Interim CEO and Chief Operating Officer of Under Armour, a Cascale member. During his tenure at Under Armour, Browne oversaw sustainability efforts and, in addition, led significant transformations across supply chain, go-to-market and technology. In 2023, the company shared achievements related to its environmental footprint, product circularity, and renewable energy goals – some accomplished with Cascale’s Higg Index suite of tools.

Prior to joining Under Armour, Browne was managing director of Asia Sourcing for VF Corporation, a Cascale member that includes The North Face, Timberland, Vans, and Smartwool brands. In addition to his experience leading brands, Browne also spent four years running manufacturing plants in Thailand and began his career at Bally Shoe factories in the UK. He has lived and worked in the UK, South Korea, mainland China, the Philippines, Thailand, Hong Kong SAR, and the USA; his international experience and localized approach underscore his commitment to Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) both in and outside of the workplace. Browne also served as the Chairman of the American Apparel and Footwear Association and was on the board of the World Federation of Sporting Goods Industries. As a member of the Worldly Board, the leader in environmental and social impact data for the apparel and footwear industry and the exclusive platform for Cascale’s Higg Index tools, Browne will ensure a unified approach to advancing sustainability initiatives across both organizations.

During his first 100 days with Cascale, Browne will connect with the organization’s 300+ members across the value chain, emphasizing manufacturer engagement and relationship building. He will also engage Cascale’s broader ecosystem of stakeholders including NGOs, governments, and academia. Browne is personally committed to Cascale’s vision to lead the consumer goods industry to combat climate change, foster decent work for all, and build a nature-positive future.

Stahl has joined the Global Organization for PHA (GO!PHA), a non-profit platform that advocates and advances the use of polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs), a naturally occurring polymer that offers a lower-impact, bio-based alternative to traditional fossil-based plastic feedstocks.  

GO!PHA is a coalition of over 60 stakeholders ranging from producers and formulators to users as well as universities and research institutes. The members, all early adopters of PHAs, work together to increase understanding of this relatively new PHA technology and advance the science behind these renewable, compostable and biodegradable materials. As a member of the network, Stahl will have the opportunity to join forces with the wider PHA value chain to help move PHAs beyond the testing phase and accelerate the potential application of the technology in the coatings market. 

A joint venture between Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) and Project Plan B, known as Project Re:claim, has begun operations in Kettering, Northamptonshire - the first commercial-scale, post-consumer polyester recycling plant of its kind that provides a solution to the issue of polyester textile waste.

The plant will recycle post-consumer garments and other textiles, and supply the raw material back into the fashion and textiles industries.

The machine was installed in January 2024 and is now fully operational, with polyester pellets being produced from polyester waste. The plant is on track to recycle 2,500 tonnes of unwanted polyester this year, with a further 5,000 tonnes in year 2, and creates polyester pellets which can be spun into yarn for use in textiles along with other industrial applications. The pellets are expected to be integrated into the manufacturing processes of new products later this year.

CARBIOS celebrated the groundbreaking ceremony for its PET biorecycling plant in the presence of representatives of local authorities, partner brands and industrial partners who all make up CARBIOS’ ecosystem. Located in Longlaville, in the Grand-Est region of France, CARBIOS' first commercial plant will play a key role in the fight against plastic pollution, offering an industrial-scale solution for the enzymatic depolymerization of PET waste in order to accelerate a circular economy for plastic and textiles. The plant will have a processing capacity of 50kt/year of prepared waste when operating at full capacity. Work is progressing on schedule with significant quantities delivered to customers in 2026.

CARBIOS' technology enables PET circularity and provides an alternative raw material to fossil-based monomers, giving PET producers, waste management companies, public bodies and brands an effective solution to meet regulatory requirements and their own commitments to sustainable development. The plant will have the capacity to process 50,000 tons of prepared PET waste per year (equivalent to 2 billion colored bottles, 2.5 billion food trays or 300 million T-shirts). The plant will create 150 direct and indirect jobs in the region. In October 2023, CARBIOS obtained the building and operating permits for the site. The factory is currently under construction on land officially acquired from Indorama Ventures on 14 February 2024. In February 2024, CARBIOS and De Smet Engineers & Contractors (DSEC) announced their collaboration to manage construction. Several feedstock supply agreements, notably with CITEO and Landbell Group, will secure the vast majority of the raw materials required.  Close to the borders with Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg, the plant's location is strategic for access to nearby waste supplies

North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles has been making inroads challenging the conventional pad finishing process and significantly reducing its environmental footprint in collaboration with Baldwin Technology Inc. Front and center in its finishing lab is Baldwin’s TexCoat G4™ digital finishing system.
 
For nearly 125 years, the Wilson College of Textiles has been a hub of innovation and learning, transforming students into experts in the world of textiles. As the textile industry grapples with sustainability challenges, the college has embraced new technologies and innovations to address the issue head-on.
 
At the forefront of this transformation is the Zeis Textiles Extension for Economic Development, an arm of Wilson College which serves the textile industry’s prototyping and pilot production needs in its five laboratories – spun yarn, knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, and physical testing. Collaborations with various textile companies have allowed the university to foster industry partnerships that bring forth groundbreaking ideas.
 
The partnership with Baldwin Technology marks a major milestone for the Raleigh, North Carolina-based college’s efforts to contribute to a more sustainable tomorrow.
 
To tackle the longstanding challenges of unsustainable fashion, NC State has taken the lead in demonstrating to students and industry the transition from the traditional pad finishing process to Baldwin’s TexCoat™ G4 system. It offers an innovative “non-contact” precision spray that significantly reduces water consumption, energy usage and chemical waste.
 
“Instead of needing to take the fabric, dip it into a bath to saturate it, squeeze the excess, dry and cure it, you can now precisely add the exact amount of finish you need on the fabric,” explained Rick Stanford, Baldwin's VP Global Business Development of Textiles. “The TexCoat™ G4 system will reduce the amount of pick-up that’s required to carry the chemical onto the fabric. This will also take a lot less energy to dry the fabric, increasing production speeds.”
 
The adoption of the TexCoat™ G4 system signals a new era for the college, allowing students to actively participate in shaping a sustainable future for the textiles industry. In the global effort to protect the planet and its resources, NC State's Wilson College of Textiles is at the forefront, preparing the next generation of professionals to be the leaders of the sustainable textile movement.

International technology group ANDRITZ has successfully started up a new nonwovens production line supplied to Teknomelt Teknik Mensucat San. ve Tic. A.S. in Kahramanmaras, Türkiye. The new neXline wetlace CCP (carded-carded-pulp) line produces nonwoven roll goods for biodegradable, plastic-free wet wipes

By combining the benefits of two technologies, spunlace and wetlaid, the line enables the use of bio-based fibers, like viscose and wood pulp, to produce a high-performance and sustainable wipe with the same technical product characteristics and performances as a conventional wipe made of synthetic fibers while protecting the environment.

Teknomelt is one of the leading manufacturers of nonwoven meltblown, spunbond, SMS and SMMS fabrics in Türkiye. The company serves a wide range of markets, exporting 45% of its production. With the new ANDRITZ Wetlace CCP line, the company is expanding its range of sustainable nonwovens production for wipes. 

Nichts ist nachhaltiger, als Dinge zu nutzen, die bereits da sind. Daher verfügen die meisten Filialen des Hamburger Outdoor Ausrüsters Globetrotter über eigene Werkstätten, in denen verschiedene Pflege- und Reparaturservices angeboten werden. Passend zum Earth Day (22. April) eröffnete der Einzelhändler vor kurzem eine weitere Werkstatt in Stuttgart. Am 6. Mai wird Globetrotter seine bisher größte Reparatur-Werkstatt in Köln eröffnen.

Auf 25 Quadratmetern bietet die Werkstatt in der Stuttgarter Erlebnisfiliale zahlreiche Pflege- und Reparaturservices für Outdoor-Ausrüstung und Bekleidung, wie etwa das Waschen, Imprägnieren oder Wachsen von Bekleidung, Schuhen, Schlafsäcken und Co. Ebenso können kleinere Näharbeiten und Reparaturen von Hardware durchgeführt werden. In Köln eröffnet im Mai die bis dato größte Filialwerkstatt mit einer Fläche von 83 Quadratmetern.

„Der heutige Earth Day erinnert uns daran, dass wir noch immer mehr Ressourcen verbrauchen, als gut für uns und unseren Planeten ist. Wir leben in einer Wegwerfgesellschaft. Wer seine Kleidung und Ausrüstung richtig pflegt, repariert und lange nutzt, trägt dazu bei, Abfall zu reduzieren und Ressourcen zu schonen,“ so Product Lifecycle Managerin Christiane Gawlik. „Daher bieten wir zahlreiche Services, die die Lebenszeit von Produkten verlängern.“ Bereits im Jahr 2018 wurde die erste lokale Werkstatt in Frankfurt eröffnet, in den Folgejahren wurden weitere Stores ausgestattet.

Mittlerweile kauft Globetrotter außerdem in allen Filialen gebrauchte Bekleidung und Ausrüstung seiner Kund:innen an und bietet dort auch ein breites Outdoor-Sortiment aus zweiter Hand. Beide Angebote sind auch online verfügbar. Auf alle Waren gibt der Händler eine Gewährleistung von zwölf Monaten. Auch ein Miet-Service für Outdoor-Ausrüstung wird sowohl online als auch in ausgewählten Filialen angeboten – darunter auch die Stores in Stuttgart und Köln.

Eastman, a specialty materials company and producer of Naia™ cellulosic fibers, has formed a collaboration with Debrand, a logistics company specializing in finding sustainable solutions to apparel waste.

Teaming up with Debrand for collection of the waste, Eastman is using its molecular recycling technology to recycle 5,000 pounds of pre- and post-consumer apparel waste. The process breaks down apparel waste to its molecular building blocks and uses the certified recycled material to create Naia™ Renew fibers — circular fibers made from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% recycled waste material via Global Recycled Standard-certified mass balance.

Eastman and Debrand are showcasing the transformative potential of molecular recycling technology to address the textile waste crisis. By providing more circular solutions for apparel waste, this partnership sets a new standard for sustainable practices in the fashion industry. Prior to its collaboration with Eastman, Debrand secured a strategic investment from Waste Management, a provider of comprehensive waste management in North America, to deliver circular solutions across the U.S. and Canada.

Eastman continues to partner with strategic brands and organizations to drive innovation and enhance the infrastructure for a circular economy in the textiles industry. Recently, Eastman teamed up with Patagonia to recycle 8,000 pounds of its unusable apparel.

As the 2024 edition of Techtextil, the leading international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, gets underway in Frankfurt, Beaulieu Fibres International is introducing its Sustainable Fibres Program to help reshape fibres for sustainable solutions.

Through the initiative the company is looking to gain deeper insights into the challenges encountered by customers across the value chain to identify opportunities to leverage its expertise to deliver impactful products and services.

Beaulieu has identified several conversation triggers for Techtextil 2024, including recyclable, high performance, renewable, bio-circular, co-developed and made in Europe fibres, to find out what matters most to customers in terms of targets, green initiatives and sustainability expectations.
The Sustainable Fibres Program serves as a charter to help Beaulieu Fibres International accelerate its ‘fibres that build futures’ campaign, by educating on existing solutions, reshaping products and creating partnerships to facilitate market cooperation on shared challenges.

In addition to leading the market within the framework of the European Green Deal, and alignment with the objectives of the proposed Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, Beaulieu Fibres International is committed to achieving its own sustainability targets outlined in its roadmap known as ROUTE 2030.