From the Sector

100% sustainability lives in the smallest detail, starting with the label, the only element that can tell the story of responsibility. This is exactly why, to be a truly credible 'ambassador', the label or tag must itself be responsible. This is why Nastrificio di Cassano has created NDC Green, the premium, Made in Italy and fully traceable range that guarantees the highest quality standards while respecting the planet.

NDC Green comprises 4 categories, all with influential international certifications that attest to Nastrificio di Cassano's responsible imprinting. Many new sustainability values are woven into the collection. Particular attention is given to end-of-life, but also to the choice of natural and high-tech materials with a low environmental impact.

A wide choice that speaks of responsible innovation, beauty and functionality: characteristics that have led C.L.A.S.S. (www.classecohub.org) to integrate NDC Green into its Material Hub which "contains a selection of fibres, materials and fabrics that share a DNA linked to research that since 2007 has been raising the bar of standards in order to offer innovations in step with the demands of the contemporary consumer" says Giusy Bettoni CEO of C.L.A.S.S.
NDC Green includes:

• LABìO ECO-SOFT®: made using compostable and biodegradable ingredients (as attested by TUV Austria), this product boasts performances and is resistant up to 10 domestic washings at 30°. The reference is produced with fifteen times less water consumption than cotton production and the resins used are GOTS certified.
• LABìO HANGreen is the smart solution for the creation of hard tags, hangtags, shopping bags and garment covers and, as LABIO ECO-SOFT® range, it made with  compostable and biodegradable ingredients as certified by TUV Austria and the resin is compostable, too. These peculiarities make this product unique.
• ACETATE NAIA™, the 'smart satin' that respects forests and oceans, is the NAIA™ single-ingredient solution produced by Eastman: the 100% traceable, compostable and biodegradable cellulose yarn in both soil and sea respects the natural growth rate of forests.
• RECYCLED POLYESTER: is made from post-consumer yarn recycled from GRS-certified PET bottles. Available in both satin and resinated taffeta versions, it guarantees excellent printability for an elegant and sophisticated look.

Wülfing GmbH is one of the oldest but also one of the most modern home textiles companies in Germany, with its main weaving and finishing operations located in Borken, North Rhine-Westphalia, and a further jacquard weaving mill in Steinfurt, as well as with a making up and packaging plant in the Czech Republic.

At its Borken plant, Wülfing has employed a Monforts sanforizing line since 2009 to guarantee the required dimensional stability and shrink-fastness of its high quality bed linen. With a working width of over three metres, the sanforizing process is a central pillar in the production of typical wide-width cotton fabrics for home textiles.

In 2017, the company was able to acquire a second Monforts sanforizing line from another company which, although built in 2005, had been virtually unused. It was overhauled and installed behind a Monforts equalizing frame of a similar age.

“Unfortunately, the two machines had to be operated separately via individual controls and did not represent an integrated unit,” says Schulte-Mesum. “This resulted in deficits in the desired productivity and in the control technology.”

Wülfing consulted with Monforts on a number of upgrade options and opted for a completely new joint control system to merge the two machines, as well as a new connecting inlet, a tensioning and damping field and a steaming unit.

“Monforts provided a fast and precise erection and commissioning of the technology in spite of the difficult pandemic circumstances,” says Schulte-Mesum. “The result has been an increase in production speeds by 20% and enhanced uniformity in fabric width through a much improved guidance system.

“We are also achieving energy savings as a result of the new control and drive technology and operation has been simplified and improved as a result of the unified control. We benefit from simplified access for maintenance work such as the grinding of the rubber blanket, but most of all we have greatly improved our flexibility and now have two almost identical Monforts sanforizing lines.”

International technology Group ANDRITZ will be presenting its innovative nonwovens production and textile solutions at ANEX/SINCE 2021 in Shanghai, China, from July 22 to 24, 2021. The product portfolio covers state-of-the-art nonwovens and textile production technologies such as air-through bonding, needlepunch, spunlace, spunbond, wetlaid/Wetlace, converting, textile finishing, airlay, recycling, and bast fiber processing.

Among the largest end-use markets for nonwoven products are materials for durable uses. Interior linings for cars, materials for construction, geotextiles, synthetic leathers for clothing and furniture, carpeting, filtration and many other industries rely on the use of nonwovens produced using the needlepunch method.

ANDRITZ Nonwoven’s processes play a pioneering role in the production of biodegradable materials. For many years, ANDRITZ has offered different processes, like spunlace, Wetlace and Wetlace CP, all with one goal in mind: Elimination of plastic components while maintaining the high quality of the desired product properties. Such processes achieve high performance entirely with plastic-free raw materials. The added benefit of using a blend of fibers, like wood pulp, short-cut cellulosic fibers, viscose, cotton, hemp, bamboo or linen, without chemical additives results in a 100% sustainable fabric, thus meeting customers’ needs exactly as well as supporting the strong tendency to move away from plastics and synthetics.

The latest development in this field is the ANDRITZ neXline wetlace CP line. This process combines the benefits of two forming technologies (inline drylaid and wetlaid web forming process) with bonding by hydroentanglement. Natural fibers, like pulp or viscose, can be processed smoothly and generate a high-performance and cost-efficient wipe that is fully biodegradable and plastic-free.

To ensure that outdoor clothing and equipment can remain in use for a long time, the right care is crucial. The cleaning and impregnation products from ATSKO preserve and protect the fabric - and nature, too.

The outdoor season has begun - hikers, trail runners, bikers, campers and many others are now drawn back out into nature. To make sure that functional clothing and gear are optimally prepared for every situation, they should be regularly cleaned, cared for and impregnated, especially when the waterproofing starts to wear off or dirt stains affect the fabric. Thorough cleaning and care at the end of the season also ensure that the outdoor equipment survives storage in the basement or attic undamaged and can develop its full performance again next year. For almost 90 years, the US manufacturer ATSKO has been developing sustainable products for the most extreme outdoor challenges. ATSKO stands for moisture protection as well as waterproofing and conditioning agents for shoes, clothing and outdoor accessories that maintain functionality and extend service life. Thanks to their natural ingredients, ATSKO products are sustainable and protect nature.

ATSKO is best known for three brands in particular: SNO-SEAL® Bees Wax is used to care for and protect leather shoes and leather products and is based on natural beeswax. SILICONE WATER-GUARD® spray protects functional textiles and equipment from moisture and wear and is breathable. Since 1982, SPORT-WASH© has become the leading detergent for high-performance sportswear and functional clothing. All products are also available in practical travel sizes that can be easily taken on tour or on vacation.

Mimaki held their global event Innovation Days (2-4 June 2021) to great success. The event brought together printers, journalists and experts from Mimaki Japan, USA and Europe, to nurture innovation in the sign graphics, industrial, textile and 3D markets and drive success within the industry. The global event also introduced the market to Mimaki’s recent product releases, the JFX550, JFX600 and SUJV-160.

In a week of webinars, workshops, demonstrations, and networking events, over 1,300 attendees from all across the world logged in to participate, with the demonstration of UJV100 and JV100 printers, 3D printing workshop and car wrap workshop being the most popular events. As a first of its kind for Mimaki, visitors were able to speak with regional Mimaki representatives, gaining greater insight into the global printing industry as it recovers from the COVID-19 pandemic.

A stand-out attraction of the event was the recently released 100 Series, which is priced affordably to allow printers entry into different markets, as many look to expand their portfolio in these uncertain times. The new JFX600-2513 and JFX550-2513, which debuted a few weeks prior at virtual drupa, similarly are higher end but still affordable printers, when compared to other large format UV flatbed machines in its class. 3D full colour print technology also featured heavily in the event, as Mimaki explored the exciting propositions it opens up in different markets and how the brand continues to extend the reach and accessibility of cutting-edge 3D technologies with its upcoming 3DUJ-2207 printer.

Mr. Kazuaki Ikeda, President of Mimaki Engineering commented, “I’d like to extend my thanks to everyone who joined us during this exciting new virtual event. During the pandemic, carrying on innovating has been central to Mimaki’s objectives, with eight new products having been released since October, and even more scheduled to come out over the course of this year. I hope that we can soon all meet at in-person events, once it’s safe to do so, but until then I’m excited to see the results of the continued collaboration and innovation of print industry that we saw in our Innovation Days event.”

• Key Provision Guarantees Long-Term Contracts for Domestic PPE

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber through finished products, issued a statement today welcoming Senate passage of the bipartisan U.S. Innovation and Competition Act (USICA). As part of the bill’s effort to address overall manufacturing and technology competitiveness issues from the perspective of the U.S.-China relationship, the legislation will help reconstitute a domestic supply chain for personal protective equipment (PPE).

“We commend the Senate for ushering the bipartisan USICA, designed to make the U.S. more globally competitive against China, across the finish line which includes an important provision to help onshore personal protective equipment (PPE) production,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas.

“We sincerely thank Senator Rob Portman (R-OH) and Senator Gary Peters (D-MI) for working to include their Make PPE in America Act in the USICA, a critical priority of the U.S. textile industry,” Glas said. “This language will help onshore critical production of medical personal protective equipment (PPE) by guaranteeing long-term contracts for American-made PPE and establishing a much-need domestic procurement requirement for federal purchases of these essential products. It will ensure that that U.S. taxpayer dollars are utilized to construct and secure a domestic production chain for the manufacture of lifesaving PPE and other essential medical supplies,” Glas said.

NCTO led an industry and labor coalition effort supporting the inclusion of the Make PPE in America Act in the USICA.  The USICA contains the key provisions of the Portman-Peters bill that ensures all PPE purchased by the Departments of Homeland Security, Health and Human Services and Veterans Affairs are Berry Amendment-compliant and guarantees long-term contracts for these critical items to incentivize domestic production.

“While we support the overall USICA package, which includes many items of critical importance to the U.S. textile industry, our industry is extremely concerned about a provision that was added in the eleventh hour that could sidetrack the critical effort to onshore a self-sufficient PPE industry,” Glas added. “This harmful provision would unilaterally suspend normal tariffs and penalties assessed on PPE imports for two years. Doing so would allow China to maintain its stranglehold on the U.S. PPE market, while working at cross-purposes with other provisions of the bill designed to incentivize much needed investment in domestic PPE manufacturing. U.S. manufacturers retooled production and have significant idle capacity.  It is critical that the House of Representatives strike this damaging language if this legislative package is considered.

“Congress and the administration need to keep PPE tariffs in place to support U.S. businesses and workers who abide by higher labor, environmental and production standards.  The industry reconstituted supply chains to help healthcare frontline workers.  Our industry has significant capacity to help meet U.S. medical needs.  This provision is the absolute wrong message to send to American manufacturers and its workforce.” Glas noted.

Archroma announces a successful first year on the U.S. home care market with its whiteness solutions for laundry and detergents.

Archroma acquired in December 2019 the BASF's stilbene-based optical brightening agents (OBA) business for liquid and powder laundry detergent applications. The acquisition included the OBA technology, portfolio and manufacturing unit at Ankleshwar, India.

Since then, Archroma has mobilized its global experts, technologies and know-how, to design a holistic solutions portfolio for household, industrial & institutional cleaning (HI&I) aimed to support detergent manufacturers.

The portfolio now includes solutions for whiteness, coloration, stain removal, fabric softening, as well as sequestering agents and surfactants, which can be used in applications such as multipurpose cleaning powders, detergent powders, dish wash tablets and liquids, laundry liquids and fabric softeners, and hard surface cleaners.

Archroma used its experience working with manufacturers and brands in the textile industry to enter the US detergent markets for the very first time, and has been able to gain a significant position with most key laundry detergent manufacturers with its solutions for whiteness.

In particular, the company reports special interest from U.S. detergent brands and manufacturers for its Leucophor® 5BMGX, as this optical brightener allows them to achieve high levels of whiteness with a blueish undertone. The product is also highly soluble in water and stable in oxidative environment.

At Lectra’s Extraordinary Shareholders’ Meeting held on April 30, members voted to appoint Céline Abecassis-Moedas as a new independent director. Nominated for a period of four years, she becomes a member of the Audit Committee, the Compensation Committee and the Strategic Committee.

The appointment of Céline Abecassis-Moedas to Lectra's Board of Directors will notably strengthen the Strategic Committee, which will be called upon to examine an increasing number of investment projects in innovative companies and the continued development of our offers for Industry 4.0.

Céline Abecassis-Moedas will also draw upon her international experience as an independent director, through positions held for nearly ten years at four companies in Spain and Portugal: Europac (Papeles y Cartones de Europa) from 2012 to 2019, CTT (CTT Correios de Portugal) from 2016 to 2020, CUF since 2016, and Vista Alegre Atlantis since 2020.

Céline Abecassis-Moedas, 49, is now Dean for Executive Education and Associate Professor at Católica-Lisbon. She began her career in research at France Telecom R&D, before joining Lectra in New York as an e-business product manager in 1999, then AT Kearney in London as a consultant in 2000. From 2002 to 2005, she was Lecturer in Strategy at Queen Mary University of London, then joined Católica-Lisbon University as Assistant Professor in Strategic and Innovation Management.

From 2014 to 2020, Céline Abecassis-Moedas was also Affiliate Professor at ESCP and co-scientific director of the Lectra-ESCP Chair's "Fashion and Technology".

Céline Abecassis-Moedas is a graduate of the École Normale Supérieure de Cachan, of the Université Paris Dauphine (DEA in Scientific management methods), holder of a Ph.D. in Management from the École Polytechnique and holder of the INSEAD Certificate in Corporate Governance obtained in 2017.

Ensuring Competitiveness Through Technology

Rieter has doubled down on its R&D efforts since the onset of the pandemic to accelerate the development of its suite of intelligent and automated machines and systems so customers can manufacture yarns more profitably, efficiently and sustainably. This also empowers mill owners to respond flexibly to fast-changing markets.

• Ring spinning with G 38 and ROBOspin sets new standards in automation
• COMPACTapron takes yarn strength to new heights
• ESSENTIAL offers new features with smarter insights for better decisions
• ROBOdoff automates doffing to save time and money
• SSM’s new winder NEO-YW delivers more efficiency and sustainability
• Graf’s new cylinder wire and flats enhance lifetime and quality

Brodelec chose to broaden its scope of activity by investing in the Kornit Presto S.

Dominique Willems, CEO at Brodelec, comments: "We had already seen a strong trend for personalized items, whether in the furniture or fashion sector, but since the beginning of the pandemic we have seen a strong growth in requests for small-scale personalization. And that's exactly where Kornit offers us a solution with incredible durability and quality, perfectly suited to our needs."

He continues: "The Kornit Presto S has allowed us to bring our latest project to life: the creation of a website entirely dedicated to ordering custom masks. Thanks to an online editor and our 200 models, our customers can order their masks in quantities ranging from 1 to several thousand pieces if necessary. As the Kornit Presto is free of certain technical and chemical constraints and has adapted perfectly to Brodelec's workflow system; we are currently printing more than 10,000 masks per week and can respond to requests within extremely short deadlines while guaranteeing quality and sharpness of detail. The masks meet the recommendations of the AFNOR and are designed with a fabric that filters out particles in the air by over 90%! Therefore, the designed and printed fabric masks are designated as category 1 and meet the UNS1 standards. They are distributed after testing for 60 washes."