From the Sector

The Lenzing Group, a supplier of regenerated cellulosic fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, reported both revenue and earnings growth year-on-year in the first half of 2025. In the second quarter, however, international tariff measures and the resultant uncertainty led to tangible stress along the textile value chain and slowed the Lenzing Group’s recovery. Market prices remained at a low level while costs for raw materials, energy and logistics continued to be high. 
 
The Lenzing Group generated revenue of EUR 1.34 bn in the first half of 2025, which was higher than in the same period of the previous year. The operating earnings trend benefited significantly from the positive effects of the performance program. EBITDA grew by 63.3 percent to EUR 268.6 mn, which included positive exceptional effects from the sale of surplus EU emission allowances amounting to EUR 30.6 mn and the valuation of biological assets amounting to EUR 12.5 mn. The EBITDA margin rose from 12.5 percent to 20 percent. Earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) amounted to EUR 109 mn (compared with EUR 18.9 mn in the same period of the previous year), which corresponds to an EBIT margin of 8.1 percent (compared with 1.4 percent in the same period of the previous year). Earnings before tax (EBT) amounted to EUR 22.1 mn (compared with minus EUR 22.3 mn in the same period of the previous year). Earnings after tax improved significantly to EUR 15.2 mn (compared with minus EUR 65.4 mn in the same period of the previous year).  
 
“Lenzing made further progress on its path to operational recovery in the first half of 2025. Our performance program is making a clear contribution to earnings improvement. At the same time, we are seeing tangible effects from the growing uncertainties in international trade in the second quarter – particularly as a consequence of the aggressive tariffs policy. These developments not only affect our visibility, but also our earnings. For this reason, we are all the more determined to continue our measures to secure our turnaround in the long term and further strengthen our margins,” notes Rohit Aggarwal, Lenzing Group CEO.  
 
The Lenzing Group’s performance program is comprehensively geared towards strengthening long-term crisis resilience and enhancing agility in the face of market changes. The aim is to sustainably improve EBITDA and generate free cash flow through increased profitability and consistent cost excellence. Measures such as acquiring new customers for key products and expanding into smaller markets were implemented in order to strengthen sales activities and thereby revenue growth. At the same time, Lenzing is implementing measures to significantly improve its cost structure, which are being reviewed and further developed on an ongoing basis. Over EUR 130 mn in cost savings were already achieved in 2024. Progress was made especially in terms of product costs and product quality. The Managing Board also expects further efficiency gains in the coming quarters, especially in production costs and overhead functions. The ongoing improvements in structures, processes and personnel expenses are expected to lead to an increase in both revenue and margins. The Managing Board anticipates cost savings of in excess of EUR 180 mn in the current financial year.  
 
Lenzing has also successfully strengthened its capital structure over the course of the year to date. A syndicated loan of EUR 545 mn was concluded in May. The structure of the loan comprises a EUR 355 mn term loan with a three-year term and a revolving line of credit of EUR 190 mn, also with a three-year term and extension options totaling two years. In addition, a new EUR 500 mn three-year non-callable hybrid bond was successfully placed on the market. With these measures, Lenzing secures its financing until 2027 and can continue to focus fully on implementing its successful performance program to enhance margins and free cash flow as well as to improve the cost position. 
 
Outlook
For 2025, the IMF forecasts global growth of three percent, followed by 3.1 percent in 2026 – marking a slowdown compared to the previous year (2024: 3.3 percent). The projection remains below the pre-pandemic historical average. At the same time, the IMF warns of persistently high risks to the global economy: a renewed escalation of trade conflicts, geopolitical tensions, or tighter financing conditions could dampen growth and reignite inflationary pressures.  
 
In an environment characterized by uncertainty and a persistently high cost of living, consumers are anticipated to remain cautious. This is exerting a lasting negative impact on their propensity to spend. Given the announced tariff increases, the rise in spending on apparel in the USA in the first half of the year is to be regarded as a temporary, one-off effect and is unlikely to continue over the course of the remainder of the year. 
 
The currency environment is expected to remain volatile in regions relevant to Lenzing.  
 
In the global bellwether market for cotton, market analysts’ current forecasts anticipate a slight increase in stocks to around 16.3 mn tons for the coming 2025/26 harvest season. 
 
Lenzing will continue to consistently implement its performance program and will conduct ongoing evaluations in order to leverage further cost potentials and further improve its revenue and margin generation.  
 
At present, the Lenzing Group confirms its guidance for the 2025 financial year of year-on-year higher EBITDA.  
 
The ongoing tariffs conflict and associated uncertainty are negatively affecting market expectations and are continuing to exert a very restrictive effect on earnings visibility.   
 
In structural terms, Lenzing continues to expect growing demand for environmentally responsible fibers for the textile and apparel industry as well as the hygiene and medical sectors. Lenzing is therefore very well positioned with its strategy and is pushing both profitable growth with specialty fibers and the further expansion of its market leadership in the sustainability area. 

• Weak demand from semiconductor customers weighs on Group sales and earnings performance
• Restructuring of Carbon Fibers business unit successfully on track
• EBITDA margin almost stable at 16.0% in half-year comparison 
• Sales forecast for 2025 slightly adapted, adjusted EBITDA expectations confirmed

Increasing uncertainty about the future development of global trade, tariff increases between the US and Europe, and weak demand in some of their markets are weighing on SGL Carbon's sales and earnings performance. On the other hand, the restructuring of SGL's Carbon Fibers business unit is showing initial signs of success. After six months of fiscal 2025, SGL Carbon generated sales of €453.2 million, down 15.8% on the previous year (H1 2024: €538.0 million).

The decline in sales within the Group is primarily attributable to negative volume effects, while currency and price effects played only a minor role. In particular, the continuing weak demand from semiconductor customers in the Graphite Solutions business unit weighed on sales development. Furthermore, the Carbon Fibers business unit reported lower sales as a result of the discontinuation of unprofitable business activities as part of the restructuring.

The cost savings resulting from the restructuring of Carbon Fibers and a slight improvement in adjusted EBITDA in the Process Technology business unit were unable to offset the shortfall in earnings contributions from the decline in the high-margin semiconductor business. Adjusted EBITDA, an important key figure for the Group, decreased by 16.2% compared to the first half of 2024 to €72.5 million (H1 2024: €86.5 million). The adjusted EBITDA margin remained almost unchanged at 16.0% compared to the previous year (H1 2024: 16.1%).

Taking into account depreciation and amortization of €25.8 million (H1 2024: €27.0 million) and non-recurring and special items of minus €49.9 million (H1 2024: €3.6 million), EBIT for the first half of 2025 amounted to €3.2 million (H1 2024: €55.9 million). The non-recurring and special items result in particular from restructuring expenses of €47.0 million.

The restructuring announced in February 2025 showed initial success in the first half of 2025, with positive adjusted EBITDA for the Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit. The discontinuation of loss-making business activities resulted in a 15.1% decline in sales to €93.5 million (H1 2024: €110.1 million) but also led to an increase in adjusted EBITDA for CF from minus €4.4 million to €5.2 million year-on-year.

"As part of the CF restructuring, production at our site in Lavradio (Portugal), which mainly produced acrylic fibers and precursors for carbon fibers, was closed down. Production and consequently also our business activities in the acrylic fibers and precursors product areas were completely discontinued at the end of June 2025. CF will focus in future on profitable products with greater differentiation from the international competition," said Dr. Stephan Bühler, member of the Executive Board responsible for this area.

It should be noted that the adjusted EBITDA of the CF business unit includes an earnings contribution of €4.7 million from its equity-accounted joint venture BSCCB (H1 2024: €7.9 million). The decline in BSCCB's earnings contribution is due to the costs of expanding production capacity and volatile demand from automotive customers. Excluding the earnings contribution of the equity-accounted BSCCB, adjusted EBITDA for CF would have been €0.5 million (H1 2024: minus €12.3 million).

The Composite Solutions (CS) business unit was also unable to avoid the increasing uncertainty in the automotive industry about future growth prospects. CS sales declined by 11.7% to €59.1 million in the first half of 2025 (H1 2024: €66.9 million). It should be noted that the first six months of the previous year still included sales from a contract with an automotive customer that expired in the second quarter of 2024.

As a result of lower volumes and the associated lower utilization of production capacities, CS's adjusted EBITDA decreased by €2.7 million to €5.4 million (H1 2024: €8.1 million) compared to the same period last year. Accordingly, the adjusted EBITDA margin of CS declined to 9.1% (H1 2024: 12.1%).

Outlook
Increasing trade barriers, especially due to US tariff policy, are having a negative impact on the business development of their customers and sales markets. In particular, the high level of uncertainty about future developments in the automotive industry is currently weighing on demand for the company’s products. This also includes expected sales of electric vehicles, which are the main drivers of demand for silicon carbide semiconductors. Special graphite components from SGL Carbon are required to manufacture these high-performance semiconductors.

In light of the current economic environment and the expectations for developments in the sales markets in the upcoming months and taking into account restructuring measures in the Carbon Fibers business unit, the sales forecast for fiscal year 2025 is adjusted on July 14, 2025. Consolidated sales for the full fiscal year 2025 are expected to decline by 10% to 15% compared with the previous year (2024: €1,026.4 million). Previously, SGL Carbon had expected sales to decrease by up to 10% (slight decline) compared with the previous year.

Due to the discontinuation of loss-making business activities in the Carbon Fibers business unit and cost savings as part of the successful restructuring and associated improvement in profitability, the forecast for the Group's adjusted EBITDA for fiscal year 2025 remains unchanged in the range of €130 million to €150 million.

Als einer der am wenigsten nachhaltigen Sektoren der Welt steht die Mode- und Textilindustrie vor erheblichen ökologischen Herausforderungen, von der Mikroplastikverschmutzung bis hin zu übermäßigen Treibhausgasemissionen. Das von der Europäischen Kommission kofinanzierte Projekt „FAIR FASHION“ bringt die Hochschule Niederrhein mit Partnern aus Irland, Dänemark, der Türkei und den Niederlanden zusammen, um kleine Unternehmen und Lehrende mit innovativen Werkzeugen zu unterstützen und den grünen und digitalen Wandel in der Modebranche zu fördern, für eine nachhaltigere und gerechtere Zukunft.
 
„Modeunternehmen stehen heute unter anderem vor der Herausforderung, Lieferketten zu überprüfen, inklusive Einstellungskriterien umzusetzen und sicherzustellen, dass Umweltansprüche überprüfbar und messbar sind“, sagt Prof. Dr. Sue Rossano-Rivero, Professorin für Sales und Marketing am Fachbereich Wirtschaftswissenschaften der Hochschule Niederrhein. „Nur so wirken sie authentisch – und das ist heute ein wichtiges Kriterium, um Kundinnen und Kunden von sich zu überzeugen.“
 
Ein langfristiges, nachhaltiges Branding – und kein schneller Marketingtrend – das sei wichtig, um zwischen der riesigen Konkurrenz zu überzeugen: „Auf dem heutigen, sich schnell entwickelnden Markt fordern Verbraucher:innen, insbesondere die Gen Z und Millennials, mehr von den Marken, mit denen sie interagieren. Es reicht nicht mehr, dass eine Marke nur ein Produkt verkauft, sie muss auch für etwas stehen. Konzepte wie Authentizität, Inklusivität und Nachhaltigkeit sind zu entscheidenden Elementen des Brandings und Marketings geworden“, sagt Alexandro Dreyer Duarte, Student der Hochschule Niederrhein, der seine Abschlussarbeit im „FAIR FASHION“-Projekt schreibt. „Verbraucherinnen und Verbraucher neigen dazu, Produkte von Marken zu kaufen, die ihre Werte verkörpern.“ Das Problem: Auf dem Markt versuchen einige Unternehmen durch Greenwashing, also Übertreibung oder Fälschung von Umweltverpflichtungen, oder Bluewashing, ein Akt der Falschdarstellung von Werten und Handlungen eines Unternehmens, die Marke ins rechte Licht zu rücken. 
 
Das Projekt „FAIR FASHION“ möchte in diesem Spannungsfeld Europas Mode- und Textilindustrie stärken, indem es gemeinsam mit Lehrenden, Mentor:innen, Unternehmen, Branchenexpert:innen und Hochschulstudierenden arbeitet, um Hochschulen praktische Ressourcen und umsetzbare Strategien zur Förderung der Twin Transition bereitzustellen. „Unser Ziel ist es, Lehrende, Unternehmen und zukünftige Fachleute mit dem Wissen und den Werkzeugen auszustatten, die benötigt werden, um grünere Praktiken und Spitzentechnologien zu nutzen“, sagt Sue Rossano-Rivero.
 
Zu den Partnern des Projekts zählen unter anderem die Hochschule Amsterdam (AUAS), bekannt für ihr Amsterdam Fashion Institute (AMFI), die die wissenschaftliche Leitung innehat, sowie die Technische Universität Istanbul (ITU), deren anerkannte Fakultät für Textiltechnologie und Design gemeinsam mit dem führenden Technologiepark der Türkei, ITU ARI Teknokent, die Bootcamps des Projekts organisiert und Forschung sowie Entwicklung unterstützt. Zudem begleiten das European E-Learning Institute (EUEI) und Momentum Marketing Services das Projekt in der Entwicklung und Umsetzung praxisnaher Lernmaterialien und im Marketing.
 
„FAIR FASHION“ verbindet Hochschulen, Unternehmen, politischen Entscheidungsträger:innen und Branchenexpert:innen, um Ideen auszutauschen, Innovationen voranzutreiben und ein Netzwerk zu schaffen, das sich für dauerhafte Veränderungen einsetzt. Innerhalb der Hochschule Niederrhein ist „FAIR FASHION“ ein kollaboratives Projekt zwischen dem Fachbereich Wirtschaftswissenschaften und dem Fachbereich Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik, mit dem Einsatz von Prof. Dr. Anne Schwarz-Pfeiffer. Gemeinsam soll eine neue Generation von Führungskräften inspiriert werden, Kreativität, Verantwortung und Nachhaltigkeit in den Vordergrund zu stellen. Lehrende unterstützt das Projekt beispielsweise mit einem Toolkit für die Lehre zum Thema Zukunft und Nachhaltigkeit. Die so genannten „Green+Digital Bootcamps“ bringen Studierende, Lehrenden und Branchenführer:innen und Gründer:innen zusammen, um reale Herausforderungen zu lösen. Ein Mentoring-Programm verbindet Studierende und Unternehmer:innen und fördert Führungsqualitäten und Innovation in der Mode.
 
„FAIR FASHION“ ist dabei nicht nur eine Forschungsinitiative, sondern unterstützt auch die Mission der Hochschule Niederrhein in den Bereichen Lehre und Internationalisierung. Durch die Verbindung verschiedener Fachdisziplinen schafft das Projekt praxisnahe Lernmöglichkeiten, die Studierende optimal auf die Herausforderungen der globalen Modeindustrie vorbereiten. So trägt „FAIR FASHION“ maßgeblich dazu bei, den Wandel zu einer nachhaltigen und fairen Modebranche voranzutreiben und gleichzeitig eine zukunftsfähige, verantwortungsbewusste Führungsgeneration auszubilden.

A new material developed by University of Toronto researchers could offer a safer alternative to the non-stick chemicals commonly used in cookware and other applications. 

The substance is capable of repelling water and grease about as well as standard non-stick coatings; it also contains far lower amounts of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), a family of chemicals – that includes Teflon – that have raised environmental and health concerns.

It was developed in the Durable Repellent Engineered Advanced Materials (DREAM) laboratory at U of T’s Faculty of Applied Science & Engineering using a novel chemistry technique described in Nature Communications.

“The research community has been trying to develop safer alternatives to PFAS for a long time,” says Kevin Golovin, an associate professor in the department of mechanical and industrial engineering who heads the DREAM lab. “The challenge is that while it’s easy to create a substance that will repel water, it’s hard to make one that will also repel oil and grease to the same degree. Scientists had hit an upper limit to the performance of these alternative materials.” 

Since its invention in the late 1930s, Teflon – also known as polytetrafluoroethylene or PTFE – has been prized for its ability to repel water, oil and grease alike.

Its non-stick properties are the result of the inertness of carbon-fluorine bonds, with PFAS molecules consisting of chains of carbon atoms, each bonded to several fluorine atoms.

However, this chemical inertness also causes PFAS to resist the normal processes that would break down other organic molecules over time. For this reason, they are sometimes called ‘forever chemicals.’ 

In addition to their persistence, PFAS are known to accumulate in biological tissues, and their concentrations can become amplified as they travel up the food chain. 

Various studies have linked exposure to high levels of PFAS to certain types of cancer, birth defects and other health problems, with longer-chain PFAS generally considered more harmful than the shorter-chain variety.

Despite the risks, the lack of alternatives means that PFAS remain ubiquitous in consumer products: in addition to cookware, they are used in rain-resistant fabrics, food packaging and cosmetics.

The material Golovin’s team have been working with is an alternative to PFAS called polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS).

“PDMS is often sold under the name silicone, and depending on how it’s formulated, it can be very biocompatible – in fact it’s often used in devices that are meant to be implanted into the body,” says Golovin. “But until now, we couldn’t get PDMS to perform quite as well as PFAS.” 

To overcome this problem, PhD student Samuel Au developed a new technique called nanoscale fletching which involves bonding short chains of PDMS to a base material – which Au likens to bristles on a brush.

“To improve their ability to repel oil, we have now added in the shortest possible PFAS molecule, consisting of a single carbon with three fluorines on it. We were able to bond about seven of those to the end of each PDMS bristle,” says Au.

“If you were able to shrink down to the nanometre scale, it would look a bit like the feathers that you see around the back end of an arrow, where it notches to the bow. That’s called fletching, so this is nanoscale fletching.” 

The team coated the new material on a piece of fabric, before placing drops of various oils on it to test its repellency.

The coating achieved a grade of 6 on an American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists scale – placing it on par with many standard PFAS-based coatings.

“While we did use a PFAS molecule in this process, it is the shortest possible one and therefore does not bioaccumulate,” says Golovin. 

“What we’ve seen in the literature, and even in the regulations, is that it’s the longest-chain PFAS that are getting banned first, with the shorter ones considered much less harmful. Our hybrid material provides the same performance as what had been achieved with long-chain PFAS, but with greatly reduced risk.” 

Golovin says the team is open to collaborating with manufacturers of non-stick coatings who might wish to scale up and commercialize the process. In the meantime, they will continue working on even more alternatives. 

“The holy grail of this field would be a substance that outperforms Teflon, but with no PFAS at all,” says Golovin. “We’re not quite there yet, but this is an important step in the right direction.” 

On the 1st and 2nd of July, 19 textile, clothing, leather, and footwear representatives from 8 European countries gathered at Amsterdam Fashion Institute in the Netherlands to drive forward the Erasmus+ Blueprint AEQUALIS4TCLF project. This bold initiative is set to transform the TCLF industries through a strategic, educational, and social lens, paving the way for more resilient, inclusive, and future-ready sectors.

One of the project’s key deliverables is the upcoming European TCLF Skills Strategy, designed to respond to the impact on companies’ workforce of the rapidly technological, circular and social transformations. Drawing on both qualitative and quantitative insights from stakeholders, ranging from businesses and policymakers to education providers, the updated strategy will inform the development of consecutive tailored national skills strategies. These strategies will then be rolled out by national project partners, with strong support from industry, education and institutional actors.

AEQUALIS4TCLF is also pioneering change in the classroom. Eight brand-new curricula focused on sustainable and digital fashion have already been developed, and then respective training content are under development. To ensure accessibility and engagement, partners are creating an array of innovative learning resources, from interactive e-books and videos to hands-on activities and assessments. All materials will be available online and free of charge, equipping learners and educators alike for the green and digital transitions.

At its heart, AEQUALIS4TCLF is also a social project. A rich programme of workshops, both online and in person, is being rolled out across all partner countries, addressing critical topics such as diversity, innovation, and wellbeing in the workplace. Meanwhile, a TCLF network-building effort is underway to boost collaboration at both local and European levels. This includes the creation of regional TCLF Pacts for Skills, tailored to the unique needs of local economies, and two European-level networks: one uniting education providers to share best practices and foster excellence, and another engaging regional public authorities in supporting TCLF education for the new era.

The AEQUALIS4TCLF project is co-funded by the Erasmus+ programme of the European Union.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited, an international sustainable chemical company, announced it has recycled more than 150 billion post-consumer PET bottles since 2011. This significant milestone underscores the company’s long-term commitment to circular economy practices and its sustained investment in global recycling infrastructure. 

With more than 20 recycling facilities across 11 countries, supported by strong business partnerships and optimized operations, Indorama Ventures collectively recycles 789 bottles every second — transforming used PET into high-quality recycled PET (rPET) resins and other circular materials. These are used across various industries globally, supporting Indorama Ventures and its customers in achieving their sustainability goals. 

Since beginning its recycling journey in 2011, Indorama Ventures has accelerated its impact. The company reached its first major milestone of 50 billion bottles recycled in March 2020 and doubled that figure to 100 billion bottles in 2023, just three and a half years later. Now the company has reached the 150 billion mark which reflects both growing global demand for recycled content and the company’s strategic investments in infrastructure, partnerships, and innovation to scale up recycling at speed. 

By recycling 150 billion PET bottles, Indorama Ventures has helped avoid an estimated 3.8 million tons of CO₂ emissions over the product lifecycle and diverted 2.8 million tons of plastic waste from landfills and the environment.  

By partnering with a wide network of collection organizations, Indorama Ventures ensures a consistent supply of high-quality post-consumer PET, supporting the integrity of circular supply chains. In parallel, the company works with leading technology providers to deploy advanced recycling solutions that improve processing efficiency and reduce environmental impact. 

As global demand for recycled materials grows, Indorama Ventures reaffirms its commitment to expanding recycling capacity, investing in innovation, and working with stakeholders across the value chain to accelerate the shift toward a circular economy. 

Der Wandel in der Modebranche fordert neue Konzepte für den stationären Handel. Kürzere Trendzyklen, wachsende Konkurrenz durch den Onlinehandel und steigende Kundenerwartungen fordern flexible, atmosphärisch ansprechende Verkaufsflächen. Tegometall will mit dem branchenspezifischen Ladenbausystem TegoClothes eine modulare Lösung bieten, die Funktionalität, Design und Anpassungsfähigkeit vereint.

Das Ladenbausystem kombiniert unterschiedliche Materialien wie Metall, Holz und Glas und ermöglicht durch höhenverstellbare Regale, Lamellenrückwände in Holzoptik oder integrierte LED-Leuchten eine Vielzahl an Gestaltungsmöglichkeiten. Ergänzt wird es durch mobile Präsentationstische und Ständersysteme, die sich in unterschiedliche Store-Konzepte einfügen.

Neben den standardisierten Komponenten realisiert Tegometall auch maßgeschneiderte Sonderlösungen – beispielsweise geneigte Präsentationsflächen für hochwertige Wintermäntel oder komplette Wandlösungen mit Spiegeln, Beleuchtung und dekorativen Elementen. Ziel ist stets die Verbindung von Markeninszenierung und praktischer Umsetzbarkeit.
Das Einkaufserlebnis steht dabei im Mittelpunkt: Laut Studien beeinflusst eine gezielte Lichtgestaltung die Kaufbereitschaft um bis zu 21 Prozent. Tegometall reagiert darauf mit integrierter LED-Technologie und warmem Licht, das sowohl die Produkte als auch die Atmosphäre im Store aufwertet.

Die Strickerei von Fuchshuber Techno-Tex hat ein neues Zuhause: Seit Frühsommer 2025 drehen sich die Rundstrickmaschinen des Lichtensteiner Unternehmens bei Röcker + Kohler in Ofterdingen bei Tübingen. Der Hersteller von Maschenstoffen hat die rund fünfzehn Maschinen in seinen Maschinenpark integriert. Fuchshuber profitiert von der umfassenden Strickkompetenz bei Röcker + Kohler und kann bei Bedarf auf zusätzliche oder spezialisierte Kapazitäten zugreifen. Umgekehrt bringt Fuchshuber wertvolle Kontakte zu Garn- und Faserlieferanten sowie eine etablierte Vertriebsstruktur in die Partnerschaft ein – ein strategischer Zugewinn für Röcker + Kohler, das sich verstärkt im Bereich technischer Textilien positionieren möchte.

Umzug von Balingen nach Ofterdingen
Die Entscheidung zur Zusammenarbeit fiel im Herbst 2024. Der Umzug der Strickmaschinen von Balingen nach Ofterdingen wurde ab Ende des Jahres vorbereitet und in drei Schritten vollzogen. Anfang 2025 begannen Techniker bei Röcker + Kohler mit dem Wiederaufbau. In diesem Zuge unterzogen sie die Rundstrickmaschinen einer umfassenden Revision. Seit mehr als zwei Monaten drehen die sich nun bei Röcker + Kohler und stellen technische Hochleistungsgestricke in Fuchshuber-Qualität her. 

Stricken mit Spezialwissen
Die Entscheidung zur Kooperation fiel nicht zuletzt aus einem praktischen Grund: „Nachdem unser langjähriger Strickerei-Leiter in den Ruhestand gegangen war, hatten wir Schwierigkeiten, einen Nachfolger zu finden“, erklärt Rüdiger Reuter, Geschäftsleiter von Fuchshuber Techno-Tex. „Für unsere Hochleistungsgestricke braucht es ein tiefes technisches Verständnis, sowohl fürs Stricken wie für die eingesetzten Materialien.“

Das Produktspektrum von Fuchshuber ist anspruchsvoll: Aus technischen Garnen oder Garnmischungen, wie beispielsweise Aramide und Kevlar, entstehen Gestricke für Anwendungen in Körperschutz, Industrie und Sport. Schnitt- und stichfeste Schutzbekleidung für Glas- und Metallverarbeitung, flammhemmende Ausrüstung für Feuerwehr und Unterwäsche mit Spezialfunktionen gehören ebenso dazu wie Schnittschutztextilien für Sportlerinnen und Sportler.

Gewinn für beide Seiten
Die Kooperation mit Röcker + Kohler sichert Fuchshuber nicht nur Fachkompetenz, sondern schafft auch mehr Flexibilität für Auftragsspitzen durch zusätzlichen Maschinenzugang. Röcker + Kohler betreibt mit rund 100 Rundstrickmaschinen einen der größten Maschinenparks der Region, inklusive Spezialmaschinen für ausgefallene Qualitäten.

Im Gegenzug profitiert Röcker + Kohler vom Zugang zu einem gewachsenen Vertriebsnetz, Materialfreigaben und Zertifizierungen, etwa für Behörden oder sicherheitsrelevante Bereiche. „Diese Türöffner schaffen Potenzial für ganz neue Märkte“, so Rüdiger Reuter.

Eigene Strickerei hat bei Fuchshuber Tradition
Die eigene Strickerei ist bei Fuchshuber seit jeher Teil eines klaren Konzepts: virtuelle Vollstufigkeit. Firmengründer Friedrich Fuchshuber wollte alle Produktionsschritte steuern, ohne jeden davon selbst leisten zu müssen. Für Spinnerei, Veredelung und Konfektion arbeitet Fuchshuber mit zuverlässigen Partnern, meist in der Region –das Stricken blieb Kernkompetenz im eigenen Haus.

„Gerade bei unseren technischen Textilien ist die Qualität des Maschenstoffes entscheidend für die Funktion“, unterstreicht auch Reuter.

Seine ersten Maschinen fand Friedrich Fuchshuber nicht im Werkshandel – sondern in einem Kuhstall: Die Maschinen eines Landwirts bildeten später die Grundlage für die eigene Strickerei in Balingen, die Fuchshuber Techno-Tex nach deren Insolvenz übernahm.

Die Räumlichkeiten in Balingen behält Fuchshuber bei, in kleinerem Rahmen: Sie dienen als Auslieferungslager für Konfektion sowie als Lager für Stoffrollen und Garne.

A new study led by the University of Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour (LITAC) has found that the price of a t-shirt is no reliable guide to how well it will wear over time.

LITAC PhD candidate Kate Baker presented the research, which was conducted in partnership with climate action NGO WRAP, at the Product Lifetimes and the Environment (PLATE) Conference in Aalborg, Denmark. It forms part of a clothing durability project through the UK Textiles Pact - WRAP’s ten-year industry initiative to bring greater circularity into the UK clothing market.

The LITAC team tested the durability of 47 t-shirts (24 male, 23 female designs) from UK clothing brands, including luxury items. Testing included physical properties and washing using a standard mixed 30°C wash cycle followed by a tumble dry 50 times. The t-shirts were graded for pilling (or bobbling - when small balls form on the surface of an item and the number one reason people dispose of t-shirts), as well as colour fading, shrinkage and general appearance.

A key finding was that there is no correlation between price and durability. Of the top ten best performing t-shirts, six cost less than £15, outperforming many more expensive tees including the most expensive costing £395.

LITAC’s Dr Eleanor Scott, a Lecturer in Fashion Design: Creative Knit & Innovation at the School of Design, said:
“If circularity in fashion is to be truly effective, durability must come first. Durability underpins the reuse and resale market, as well as keeping our loved items in use longer. Crucially, these findings show that durability is not a luxury reserved for the few - it’s achievable at any price point.”

LITAC PhD candidate Kate Baker added:
“This research is another step forward on the road to developing a way of measuring how durable the clothes we wear are. Improved clothing durability is critical for the future of circularity and providing the opportunity for people to wear the clothes they love for longer. It was an honour to present our work on garment durability at the renowned P.L.A.T.E conference in Aalborg this year.”

The research found more hard-wearing t-shirts tend to have a percentage of synthetic fibres in the composition including polyester, polyamide, and elastane. Cotton t-shirts tended to have higher shrinkage than synthetic ones, which can be exacerbated with tumble drying. However, the research suggests well designed 100% cotton t-shirts can be hard-wearing and good value for money – 4 of the 10 top garments were 100% cotton.

The study identified several common characteristics among the most durable garments tested:

• Heavier weight cotton t-shirts tend to perform better than lightweight ones
• T-shirts with a blend of cotton and synthetic fibres, such as polyester or elastane, generally offer greater durability
• Price is not a reliable indicator of how hard-wearing a t-shirt will be.

By 2030, global apparel consumption is projected to rise by 63% to 102 million tonnes. In the UK, 711,000 tonnes of textile waste were sent to landfill or incineration in 2021, with 72% through the kerbside residual waste stream. WRAP believes designing for durability is critical to moving the industry to a more sustainable model and can be done while still offering value for money for consumers.

WRAP also found that the average person buys around 28 new items of clothing every year. That’s typically 8kg each, or 586,000 tonnes in total, and typically one quarter of every UK wardrobe is unworn for more than a year.

Mark Sumner, WRAP’s Programme Lead on Textiles and a former researcher at the University of Leeds, said:
“Most shoppers use price as an indicator of how hard-wearing clothes are ‘the more I spend, the more I’m bound to get out of my purchase’. But our study shows this is totally misleading. The most expensive t-shirt we tested cost £395 and ranked 28th out of 47, while a £4 t-shirt was placed 15th. The most durable t-shirt cost £28, but the one ranked second worst was £29! So, if you’re judging on price alone – buyer beware.”

The study’s testing methodology for durability is ready to be adapted for other regions and WRAP is now exploring partnerships with EU and US brands to co-create durability and performance standards tailored to their national needs.

Was passiert, wenn Gestaltung sich einmischt? Welche Rolle nimmt sie zwischen demokratischer Erosion und ökologischen Krisen ein? Vom 4. September bis 12. Oktober zeigt die Initiative German Design Graduates, gefördert vom Rat für Formgebung – German Design Council, die Jahresausstellung „Dare to Design – Spaces of Care“ im Museum für Angewandte Kunst Köln (MAKK). 

45 Projekte und Konzepte junger Designtalente widmen sich den drängenden Fragen und gesellschaftspolitischen Herausforderungen der Gegenwart. In ihrer Vielfalt spiegeln die Abschlussarbeiten die Innovationskraft von Design wider. Jenseits des klassischen Entwurfsbegriffs und der reinen Form laden sie zum Diskurs über ein erweitertes Verständnis der Disziplin ein: Design als kollektive Praxis und als Akt der Fürsorge.

Die Preview findet am 3. September um 17:30 Uhr in Anwesenheit der Aussteller*innen und Mentor*innen aus Wirtschaft und Kultur statt. Dr. Petra Hesse, Direktorin des MAKK, und Lutz Dietzold, Geschäftsführer des German Design Council, eröffnen den Abend. Während der Preview werden neun besonders herausragende Arbeiten präsentiert. Ein Paneltalk zwischen Julia Kostial, Direktorin Stiftung Deutsches Design Museum, und den Mentor*innen lädt zum interdisziplinären Perspektivwechsel ein. Um 19 Uhr folgt die Eröffnung der Ausstellung.