From the Sector

Project Re:Claim, a joint venture between the Salvation Army Trading Company and Project Plan B, has been nominated for the Plastics Industry Awards 2024 in the "Recycler of the Year" category. Using an ISEC evo system from PURE LOOP to process used garments and other textiles, the project is Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system. The award ceremony will take place on 22 November in London.

The UK produces more than half a million tonnes of polyester textile waste every year. Project Re:Claim aims to recycle post-industrial and post-consumer clothing and textiles. The focus is on the recycling of post-industrial polyester from contract textiles for hospitals or hotels (e.g. bed and table linen), workwear and school uniforms, as well as promotional banners (e.g. printed sports banners). The fabrics and textiles come from controlled material streams (closed-loop systems), ensuring minimal impurities. The recycling technology used is an ISEC evo 302 E from PURE LOOP. This innovative technology, developed by the EREMA Group’s member, enables efficient production of high-quality rPET from textile waste.

Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system
The plant, installed at a Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) processing centre in Kettering in early 2024, represents Europe’s first commercial scale polyester textile recycling system specialising in post-consumer polyester. SATCoL is the trading arm of The Salvation Army and UK’s largest charity owned textile collector.

Together with Project Plan B, a specialist in garment design with a focus on design for recycling, PURE LOOP optimised its integrated shredder-extruder combination ISEC evo for the specific requirements. "Plan B has a vision, and we are convinced something great can come out of it," emphasises Manfred Dobersberger, Managing Director at PURE LOOP. Thanks to the configuration of shredder and extruder on one drive shaft and the patented double feed ram system, the ISEC evo 302 E gently processes discarded polyester into rPET, which can be reused for new yarns and other products. "Up until now, polyester that had no useful life left would have been disposed of," explains Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B. "With the ISEC evo, we can now return textile waste as a valuable material back to the supply chains. It’s a carbon saving solution, and it plays a significant role in helping our collective journey to Net Zero."

Textile recycling: an industry with growth potential
The plant aims to recycle 2,500 tonnes of polyester in its first year, doubling this amount in the second year. In addition to the environmental benefits such as diverting unwearable textiles away from landfill, initial estimates indicate that the production of pellets from Project Re:Claim uses only one-tenth of the energy compared with pellets produced from virgin polyester. One prerequisite for this is an energy-efficient recycling machine such as the ISEC evo.

A new generation of space materials left Earth November. 5 as they head to the International Space Station (ISS) to undergo testing in the brutal conditions of low Earth orbit.

Developed at the University of Bristol, these high-performance materials could be used to build future space stations, spacecraft for interplanetary travel or a new ISS.

They will be placed on the Bartolomeo platform, located on the front of the ISS, where they will orbit Earth up to 9,000 times over the next 12 to 18 months at speeds of 17,000 mph.

The carbon fibre reinforced composites will need to survive temperatures between -150ºC and +120ºC, space debris travelling seven times faster than a bullet, severe electromagnetic radiation, high vacuum and atomic oxygen, which erodes even the toughest materials.

Prof Ian Hamerton, Professor of Polymers and Sustainable Composites in the University of Bristol’s world-leading Bristol Composites Institute, said:  

“Space is the most challenging environment for which to design new materials. You’re pitting your materials expertise, skills and ingenuity against extremes of temperature, mechanical stress, radiation, high speed impacts and more.

“Any one of those might be difficult, and, unfortunately, gaining access to repair them is not an easy option, so the materials we build must survive without maintenance.  

“The opportunity to test our materials in the proving ground of space is priceless and will help our University of Bristol scientists on the ground improve fibre-reinforced materials for next-generation space missions.”

There are four laboratory-made polymers heading to the ISS, each of which has been reinforced with carbon fibres and two contain nanoparticles. All four are the result of University of Bristol research and one is patented.

 If the materials cope in the harsh environment, they could be used to create longer-lasting space components, allowing spacecraft to travel further, and spend more time in space.

Future communities on new planets will need protection against galactic cosmic radiation. Dr Ali Kandemir, Senior Research Associate at the University of Bristol, is one of several Bristol researchers, supported by the UK Space Agency (UKSA), examining the effects of simulated galactic cosmic radiation on the materials, in a European Space Agency (ESA) project.

Dr Kandemir said: “We want materials that are resilient in the space environment and, importantly, materials that can shield humans from that radiation.

“We also want to make these materials sustainable, so that when they reach the end of their life they can be recycled and used again for the same purpose.”

The launch of the Space X Dragon CRS-2 spacecraft this morning is the culmination of five years of work for Prof Hamerton and his team.

It has included the efforts of early career researchers, postgraduates and several Aerospace Engineering undergraduates at the University of Bristol, whose final year research projects have been linked to the space materials project.

The practical support of the University of Bristol-hosted National Composites Centre (NCC) was crucial to the scale up of the composite materials.

Prof Kate Robson Brown, Vice-President for Research, Innovation and Impact at University College Dublin, and a collaborator on the project, said:

“After nearly five years of research to develop novel composite materials for space applications it is very exciting to see our experiment launch to the International Space Station.

“I am proud to be part of this mission, and to be working with the multidisciplinary and multisector research team to deliver integrated real world and digital testing for innovative materials which will help to drive growth in the new space economy.

“This mission also demonstrates how space research funding creates career changing opportunities for early career researchers and PhD students in a sector of huge value to both Ireland and the UK.”

Funding to support the project was supplied by the ESA, the UKSA, Oxford Space Systems and others.

Neste, Alterra and Technip Energies have signed a collaboration agreement to advance the circularity of plastics by providing the industry a standardized technology solution for chemical recycling, also referred to as “advanced recycling”.

The partners aim to globally offer a standardized modular solution, based on Alterra’s proprietary liquefaction technology, to parties interested in building capacity for chemical recycling.

This solution will come in the form of readily designed and engineered liquefaction plant modules, which will allow for lower pre-investment costs, accelerated implementation time, high predictability on project economics and reduced overall capital costs. Contributing to more effective execution of chemical recycling capacity projects, the solution helps the industry to reduce dependency on virgin fossil resources and accelerate the circularity of polymers and chemicals.

Alterra’s technology is a thermochemical liquefaction process, which converts hard-to-recycle plastics into a liquid hydrocarbon product. This liquid intermediate product can then be further refined into high-quality raw materials for new plastics and chemicals. As of today, Neste alone has processed more than 6,000 tons of plastic-derived feeds, including ISCC PLUS certified oil from Alterra’s industrial-scale site in Akron, Ohio.

Combining the expertise of three companies in one solution
Alterra and Neste started collaborating in chemical recycling in 2021, jointly improving aspects of Alterra’s technology and creating respective value chains. Alterra and Technip Energies started their collaboration in chemical recycling in 2022. The three companies now join efforts in a unique endeavor: Alterra and Neste will license the liquefaction technology and Technip Energies will design, engineer and deliver the standardized liquefaction plant solution to interested parties globally.

In the third quarter of 2024, the order index for Italian textile machinery, as reported by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a decline compared to the period July – September 2023 (-19%). In value terms, the index stood at 50.6 points (base 2021=100).

This drop is due to the decrease in foreign markets (-23%), which account for 86% of total orders. Instead, a 15% increase was observed in Italy compared to the third quarter of 2023. The absolute index value for foreign markets was 49.1 points, while in Italy it reached 61 points. In the third quarter, the order backlog amounted to 3.8 months of guaranteed production.

Marco Salvadè, President of ACIMIT, stated: “The order index remains at low levels. The foreign demand is of greatest concern. Investments in machinery remain stalled in some of the major markets for Italian textile machinery, such as India, Turkey, and Bangladesh.”

The growth in order collection in the domestic market is not sufficient to bridge the gap recorded abroad. Furthermore, the increase needs to be compared with the same quarter in the previous year, when orders were already low. Given the weak demand in several key markets, Italian manufacturers are working to seek new opportunities in Countries where the textile industry is still technologically underdeveloped. Marco Salvadè added: “Recently, ACIMIT organized exploratory missions to Turkmenistan and Kyrgyzstan to assess the local textile market and understand the technological needs of its companies.”

Rieter has placed a bond of CHF 65 million with a term of five years and a coupon of 3.5%. The net proceeds of the issue will be used for general corporate purposes. “The bond also extends the maturity profile of our debt financing and increases the diversification of the investor base as well as our strategic flexibility,” said Oliver Streuli, Rieter Group CFO.

The bond was issued by UBS, Zürcher Kantonalbank, Commerzbank and Basler Kantonalbank. The bond will be listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange.

Europe’s textile sorting and recycling industry is currently experiencing an unprecedented crisis, even more significant than during the COVID-19 pandemic. The sector is under immense pressure due to several global disruptions, including the war in Ukraine, logistical challenges in Africa, and the rise of ultra-fast fashion.

As a result, there is an oversupply of used textiles and a sharp decline in demand from traditional export markets. The trade in used textiles between the EU and non-EU decreased from 464,993 tonnes in 2022 to 430,185 tonnes in 2023. Looking at Germany alone, the exports of used textiles to Ghana (one of Europe’s key export markets) have decreased from 7911.2 tonnes in 2020 to 4532.9 tonnes in 2023. Additionally, demand for recycled materials remains low: recycled cotton had an estimated production volume of 319 000 tonnes in 2023 (compared to 24.4 million tonnes of virgin cotton) globally.

Consequently, prices for second-hand textiles have plummeted, while the costs of collection, sorting, and recycling have skyrocketed. Since spring 2024, the prices for sorted second-hand garments no longer cover processing costs, leading to major cash flow problems for sorting operators. Warehouses are becoming overwhelmed, increasing the risk of textile waste being incinerated.

In a joint statement EuRIC Textiles and Municipal Waste Europe expressed their concerns about the development of Europe’s textiles sorting and recycling sector. They have clearly specified what support they expect from Brussel:

“We call on the EU to encourage Member States to lower VAT on textile repair, reuse, and recycling activities, within the existing VAT Directive framework, and explore the possibility of introducing a tax on new, petroleum-based materials. Such measures, if adopted at national levels, would incentivise the use of recycled materials and reduce the environmental impact of virgin textile production.

This situation is likely to raise processing costs for municipalities, potentially resulting in higher waste disposal fees for residents, with the fear that the textiles will be thrown in the residual waste instead. Downstream players in the recycling chain, such as tearing and spinning mills, are also feeling the strain, leading to significant staff cuts.

To avert widespread bankruptcies, immediate financial and legislative support is essential. Short-term financial incentives for EU companies that contribute significantly to a sustainable circular textile chain are needed to safeguard the industry from collapsing. Investment in recycling technologies and infrastructure, alongside targeted support for municipalities dealing with textile waste stagnation, is crucial. We urge the EU to facilitate public-private partnerships to foster innovation in textile recycling and to scale up recycling technologies. This will help increase Europe’s capacity to process textile waste sustainably and efficiently. A swift revision of the Waste Framework Directive (WFD) and rapid implementation of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes are also imperative.

In the mid-term, efforts should focus on making the textiles reuse and recycling sector competitive, in line with Commission President Ursula Von der Leyen’s ambition for a competitive and strong circular economy (through a future Clean Industrial Deal and Circular Economy Act). To reach this ambition, the EU needs to increase demand for recycled textiles, expand recycling capacity, and promote the use of sustainable materials through upcoming ecodesign requirements. We call for the mandatory inclusion of a percentage of recycled textile content (most preferably from post-consumer textiles) in all new textile products placed on the EU market, with a clear trajectory for increasing this percentage over the coming years. Without urgent action, Europe risks undermining its climate goals and jeopardising the future of its textile sorting and recycling industry.”