From the Sector

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an engineering order from US textile recycling innovator Circ in anticipation of its first large-scale textile recycling plant. The plant will be the first to recover cotton and polyester from blended textile waste.

Circ® is a pioneering company focused on sustainable solutions for the fashion industry. By converting fashion waste into reusable raw materials for fabrics, Circ reduces the need for petroleum and natural resources. The company’s mission is to build a truly circular economy to protect the planet from the cost of clothing.

ANDRITZ has been successfully conducting trials for Circ at the ANDRITZ Fiber R&D Center in Springfield, Ohio, USA, for several years. The successful partnership and recent developments have led to the decision to expand this cooperation.

The majority of fashion waste consists of polyester-cotton blends, which poses a significant challenge to achieving greater circularity. In particular, the separation of cellulosic and synthetic fibers from textile waste has been a major obstacle. Circ’s innovative recycling process can break down polycotton textile waste into its original components – polyester and cotton. The forthcoming plant will process 200 tons of textile waste per day, allowing cotton to be recycled for lyocell production and polyester to be reused for polyester production. This will reduce the need for virgin raw materials.

Conor Hartman, Chief Operating Officer at Circ, says: “We remain excited about this continued collaboration with ANDRITZ. Together, we will commercialize Circ’s innovative recycling process and take another step towards a truly circular fashion industry. With its expertise in engineering and building large-scale process equipment, ANDRITZ is the right partner to help us transform textile waste into recycled fibers on an industrial level.

Michael Waupotitsch, Vice President Textile Recycling at ANDRITZ, comments: “We are eager to support Circ in their vision of circularity because the technology they have developed is uniquely suited to solve one of the biggest challenges in fashion waste and recycling. With our holistic knowledge in resizing, mechanical separation, hydrothermal processing, recovery of cellulosic pulp as well as pulp cleaning and pulp drying, we have the right expertise to help them achieve their goals. Our experience in process development and machinery will help bring their innovative recycling technology to life.”

The European LIFE ANHIDRA project marks a milestone in sustainability with the unveiling of its innovative closed-loop system for treating and reusing textile wastewater. During the event held at the Pizarro facility in Guimarães (Portugal), ANHIDRA was introduced as a revolutionary solution transforming water management in the textile industry. The event brought together the project’s key partners: Jeanologia, the Spanish company responsible for designing and building ANHIDRA and a global leader in sustainable technologies for the textile sector; AITEX, the Textile Industry Research Association; and Portuguese textile company Pizarro, accompanied by representatives from the European Commission.

A solution to reduce the textile industry’s water footprint
The textile industry consumes an estimated 93 billion m³ of water annually, accounting for 4% of global water use. ANHIDRA addresses this critical challenge by regenerating up to 95% of the water used in textile washing and finishing processes, returning it in optimal conditions for reuse.
With zero discharges, zero contamination, and no complex treatments, ANHIDRA stands out with exceptional results:

• 92% reduction in water consumption
• 98% reduction in wastewater generation
• Up to 15% reduction in energy consumption

ANHIDRA not only minimizes environmental impact but also reduces the operational costs associated with traditional water management, making it a competitive and eco-friendly solution.

Innovation and circular economy
Beyond water regeneration, ANHIDRA focuses on reusing textile waste. In collaboration with AITEX, the project is exploring how to transform fibrous fragments collected during water treatment into new textile products, reinforcing the project’s commitment to the circular economy.

"ANHIDRA not only transforms water management in the textile industry but also proves that sustainability and competitiveness can go hand in hand. This system sets a new global benchmark," said Vicent Albert, Jeanologia’s Product and Technology Director.

During the event, attendees observed the various stages of the system in action at the Pizarro pilot plant. The project plans to implement ANHIDRA in at least 36 industrial facilities over the next three years, aiming to expand to 100 systems internationally within five years. This is expected to save up to 12.34 million m³ of water annually.

Funded by the European Union's LIFE program, LIFE ANHIDRA demonstrates how business cooperation and technological innovation can provide effective solutions to major environmental challenges. "Our goal is to make this technology accessible to the entire textile industry, contributing to a more sustainable future for fashion and the planet," concluded Vicent Albert, project coordinator.

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This project has received funding from the European Union's LIFE program (grant agreement no. 101074372). The content of this document is the sole responsibility of the authors and does not necessarily reflect the position of the European Union, CINEA, or the corresponding funding program.

Unveiled at the forthcoming Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris trade fair, from 10 to 12 February at the Paris-Le-Bourget Exhibition Centre, the trend book for the Spring-Summer 2026 season opens up new creative worlds where emotion attempts to regain the upper hand over pure materials.

Entitled Néocène, the new forward-looking journey proposed by Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, the artistic directors of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, explores a world undergoing profound change. Conceived against a backdrop of severe economic, social and environmental tensions, this document is the result of cross-referencing and analysing emerging signals detected and interpreted by a panel of stylists, designers, graphic artists, authors and scenographers. In four major themes, it sets out an aesthetic framework to help fashion designers and buyers develop their spring-summer 2026 collections.

1 wardrobe, 4 universes
A new era without humans, the Néocène is a clean slate, an indefinable horizon that obeys only the laws of physics. New shapes, new colours: each theme in this trend book reflects a creative universe organised around specific materials and 3 “star colours” in 6 intermediate shades. Presented in the introduction, these colours provide a glimpse of the palette for the collections to come.

#1 Quantum.
In this universe of atoms, everything is just energy, chance and freedom. This first proposal plunges back into the heart of substance with fluid, heated and incandescent materials, on the edge of solid and liquid. The soft textures and expanded forms are particularly at home here, and express themselves in a radiant, sunny colour system: spicy flavours, tones of tan and caramel are very present.

#2 Gravity.
“The structure of the universe [...] An invisible interdependence.” This theme plays on the multiple meanings of gravity: a heaviness that is both physical and emotional. Mineral and sandy materials, repetitive or sequential geometrical patterns, all find their place here, as do aqueous aspects and biomimetic and animal-inspired forms. The colour palette here is clearly diaphanous and serious, natural and diffuse.

#3 Relativity.
This proposition should be seen as a deepening of the previous theme, until the propositions are reversed: “Ugly has become beautiful [...] Stillness accelerates”. A world of oxymorons in which graphic motifs express a mummified vegetal world, supported by lines shaped like imprints, draped textures, embroideries intended as traces of an anterior world. The colours are those of ash, tattoo ink, animal... The blues and mauves are dark and intense.

#4 Magnetism.
In stark contrast to the other universes, this axis exalts order and renewal, and brings lightness, even fragility, to the creative approach. Transparency is assertive, as are floral motifs and curved, ample and comfortable lines. The colour palette is in tune with the emotion of the theme: marshmallows, sweet flavours, peach and blush pink are at the heart of the theme.

A new layout to maximize synergies
The return of the Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris shows to Halls 2, 3 and 4 of the Paris-Le-Bourget Exhibition Centre is accompanied by an exciting new space organisation to make the buying experience even more efficient and inspiring. At the heart of hall 2, the Trends Forum will captivate visitor with its four dynamic themes, and will also house all key services, including the Agora for engaging conferences and lively round-table discussions, as well as inviting restaurants. In terms of products and services, some Texworld and Apparel Sourcing sectors have been brought together to promote synergies, with coherent areas devoted to women's clothing (Hall 4) and outdoor-sportswear-casualwear (Hall 3). This layout not only makes the Apparel Sourcing offering easier to navigate but also optimises the entire sourcing process, providing a more streamlined and productive experience.

The upcoming conference on 12-13 March 2025 in Cologne, Germany, will pave pathways to a sustainable textile industry.

Over the past few weeks, the Conference Advisory Board, and the experts from the nova-Institute, have thoroughly reviewed and evaluated over 40 submitted abstracts. The selected external experts bring new insights and perspectives from the pulp, fibre and further developing industries, promising to spark and deepen discussions at the event. Their expertise across the entire fibre value chain will enrich the topics covered and ensure a dynamic and insightful exchange of ideas. The presentations will provide a platform for the discussion at the conference after each session, and the Advisory Board members will foster a lively debate to drive innovation industry-wide.

Biosynthetics on the rise
Besides cellulose fibres, bio-based polymer fibres ("biosynthetics") are an excellent option to reduce fossil fibres in textiles. Biosynthetics offer a powerful alternative to traditional synthetic fibres, bringing both performance and technical properties that make them drop-in replacements. Derived wholly or partially from natural, renewable sources like lactic acids, sugar beet, sugarcane or wood, biosynthetics represent a bio-based option compared to fossil-based counterparts. In a special session “Biosynthetics - Replacing Traditional Synthetic Fibres”, experts will explore the latest advances, challenges and opportunities in the field. Discussing innovative approaches like biosynthetics is essential to drive sustainable transformation within the fashion and textile industries.

Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling: A Path to a Sustainable Textile Industry
The textile industry is at a crucial crossroad. The need for sustainable solutions to meet the EU's ambitious climate change targets is becoming increasingly urgent. Fibre-to-fibre recycling, which transforms discarded textiles into new, virgin fibres, holds great promise for reducing waste and resource consumption and helps to close the loop in textile production. While Europe has made progress in this area, challenges remain – in particular the management of mixed fibre textiles and the scaling up of recycling technologies. As new approaches are needed to tackle climate change, one session of the conference will focus on fibre-to-fibre recycling from textiles, exploring the latest innovations and technological advances, as well as the opportunities and barriers that need to be addressed to move the industry towards a circular, sustainable future.

Fibre Microplastic Formation versus Marine Biodegradability
The environmental impact of textiles extends far beyond landfill, with microplastics from synthetic fibres becoming a growing concern in marine ecosystems. A session at the conference will focus on the complex relationship between microplastic formation and marine biodegradability. While synthetic fibres shed microplastics during washing, these tiny particles, known as microfibres accumulate in the oceans and pose a serious threat to marine life. This session will explore the factors that influence fibre degradation in the marine environment and examine the potential of biodegradable fibres to reduce long-term pollution. Leading research institutes will discuss the challenges of balancing the prevention of microplastics with the development of fibres that can degrade naturally in marine ecosystems, and provide insights into innovative solutions that could help mitigate this pressing environmental issue.

Innovation Award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025”
The nova-Institute, together with GIG Karasek, is looking for the best fibre innovations of the year. Applicants from the area of cellulose fibres as well as biosynthetics are welcome to submit their innovations. Technologie providers, research institutes or producers can apply until 30 November 2024. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” is sponsored by GIG Karasek.

Apply for the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” award: cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Call for Posters
The poster exhibition is a highly anticipated scientific event at the conference, especially for early career scientists. Poster submission is open until 31 January 2025.

Ontex Group NV, a leading international developer and producer of personal care products, announces the launch of a share buy-back program to acquire a maximum of 1.5 million shares, representing 1.8% of its issued shares. The shares acquired through the program will contribute to meeting Ontex’s obligations under its current and future long-term incentive plans. The share purchases will be spread over a seven-month period, starting on December 1, 2024 and ending on June 30, 2025.

The program will be conducted under the terms and conditions of the authorization granted by the extraordinary shareholders’ meeting held on May 5, 2023, and will be executed by an independent intermediary, who will make its decisions independently pursuant to a discretionary mandate. The timing of the transactions will depend on a variety of factors, including market conditions. The share buy-back program may be suspended or discontinued at any time.

In accordance with applicable laws and regulations, Ontex will publish weekly updates on the progress of its share purchases. During the term of the share buy-back program, Ontex’s liquidity contract will be suspended. As Ontex currently already holds 1.2 million shares in treasury, it will hold 2.7 million treasury shares upon completion of the program, representing 3.2% of its issued shares.

ALLIED Feather + Down (AF+D), global experts in high performance, ethically sourced, and recycled down, will be supplying their high performance ExpeDRY ultra dry down to Montane for their fall 2025 down apparel line.

ExpeDRY represents the evolution of performance down for use in extreme situations, replacing chemical treatments with gold particles permanently bonded to down clusters. ExpeDRY keeps water vapor from condensing into droplets, providing better real-world performance than all other treatments. The ExpeDRY filled products will also dry significantly faster in-home laundry making care easier and utilizing much less energy through the life of the products.

Montane will offer ExpeDRY in 100% of their down jackets, being the first to adopt the technology over all down jackets.

“ALLIED introduced the world’s first water resistant down back in 2015, and we’ve learned a lot since then,” said Matthew Betcher, Creative Director with ALLIED. “Traditional WR down works great when in direct contact with water, but that is not what’s happening inside down insulation chambers. Water vapor is the biggest issue and ExpeDRY helps keep this vapor from condensing, allowing it to evaporate though the shell more effectively, keeping the down drier for longer, and helping it to dry out faster if it does get wet.

“It is also equally important that even in performance technologies, we continue to strive to reduce our environmental impact,” added Betcher. “So, removing another unnecessary chemical from our supply chain will help significantly with that. It’s only a matter of time before we all realize that the C0 chemicals we are using might not be so great for the planet after all.”

“At Montane, we are really excited to introduce such a new and disruptive technology from our long-term partners Allied Feather & Down,” said Liam Steinbeck, Materials Manager with Montane. “ExpeDRY is fully aligned with our philosophy as a brand to be one of the first to market with the latest most innovative technologies, bringing unparalleled performance and comfort in the most demanding environments.”

Poised to render current, chemical-intensive treatments obsolete, ExpeDRY down insulation is cleaner and better performing than all current water-resistant down technologies. Created in partnership with FUZE Technologies and relying on gold particles permanently bonded to down plumes, ExpeDRY is permanent and since it is completely chemical free, there are no PFAS or other concerns. In all real-world simulations, ExpeDRY is far better at keeping insulated jackets dry and warm in any environment, and at a significantly lower impact than the WR treatment alternatives.

In line with the new Level Up corporate strategy, which focuses on innovation and a future-fit product portfolio among other things, Autoneum has further expanded its research and development activities in 2024 with a particular focus on New Mobility. In addition to establishing a specialized team to accelerate the development and market readiness of novel products and technologies for electric vehicles, the Company has complemented its global innovation network with a new Research & Technology (R&T) Center in Shanghai, China.

Innovation is and always has been an integral part of Autoneum’s corporate strategy and thus a key factor for business success. The Company’s innovation activities are also an important aspect of its vision: to be the global leader for innovative and sustainable solutions bringing comfort to every vehicle. Against the backdrop of the rapidly advancing electrification of mobility and Autoneum’s strategic focus on further expanding its presence in the Asian growth markets, the expansion activities of the company-wide innovation network this year concentrated on two key areas in particular: New Mobility and presence in China.

Responding to the increasing demand for new components for electric vehicles, Autoneum has formed a specialized team dedicated exclusively to New Mobility to further strengthen its position in this growing market segment. The New Mobility team was established in fall 2023 and has been completed over the past twelve months with members from different departments. It unites a broad set of skills from various fields of expertise such as product innovation, product development and industrialization, sales and business development. The team places a particular focus on accelerating the development and time to market of new products and technologies specifically for the fast-evolving battery systems and architectures of electric vehicles. It also acts as a catalyst for innovation pro-jects and strategic partnerships. The New Mobility experts work in close collaboration with the various departments across the organization and are based at Autoneum’s Swiss headquarters in Win-terthur, at the German locations in Gundernhausen and Munich and in Shanghai, China.

Shanghai is also the location of Autoneum’s third R&T Center worldwide, which was opened in China this summer to enhance the Company’s competitiveness in Asia and cater to the development and innovation needs in this key strategic market. The new center aims to intensify and accelerate the development and production of innovative components and materials, especially regarding e-mobility. The establishment of an R&T team in China allows Autoneum to develop products in a timely manner to respond to the dynamic market conditions and the rapidly evolving requirements of Chinese vehicle manufactures. In terms of material development, the center will support the wider organization in the further development of sustainable materials, especially polyester. In addition, it will promote the introduction of Autoneum’s environmentally friendly products such as the Company’s monomaterial carpet systems featuring Autoneum’s innovative and latex-free alternative backcoating (ABC) process to the Chinese market. Moreover, the R&T Center in Shanghai will also serve as a valuable point of contact with the 14 production facilities of the Jiangsu Huanyu Group, whose acquisition of a majority stake of 70 percent by Autoneum was recently announced and is expected to be closed in March 2025 (see media release of November 19, 2024). While the plants in China will benefit from the local R&T team’s expertise in the company’s technologies, the existing broad customer base of Jiangsu Huanyu Group will support Autoneum in better understanding and serving the innovation needs of Chinese vehicle manufacturers.

The new R&T Center in Shanghai complements the primary R&T Center in Winterthur, Switzerland, which supports the global network with its expertise and a vast array of services in the areas of pre-development as well as acoustic and thermal benchmarking, simulation and testing, and the center in Bocholt, Germany. The latter was integrated into Autoneum’s innovation network following the acquisition of Borgers Automotive last year and has since established itself as the Company’s competence center for trunk and trim components. Including the new center in China, a total of approximately eighty R&T employees – including engineers, chemists, physicists and product designers – are continuously working on new ideas aimed at the next technological breakthrough in acoustic and thermal management and shielding technologies.

• Considering that 2024 summer discounts have increased compared to the previous year (+6%), even sharper price cuts are expected for Black Friday and Cyber Monday
• Outerwear: the growing popularity of suede garments suggests that brands should focus their discounts on other outerwear, such as down jackets
• Sneakers: basic and slim-fit models are selling out quickly, while those with a more structured fit are experiencing slower turnover

With Black Friday and Cyber Monday just around the corner, fashion brands are called upon to make conscious and targeted decisions to remain competitive during this peak season. In this context, Lectra, a leader in Industry 4.0 within the fashion, automotive and furniture sectors, leveraged real-time data from Retviews – its AI-powered solution for automated market intelligence to offer insights on increasing sales, reducing stocks and boosting profitability. These tips aim to guide brands in developing the most effective discount strategies based on key fashion trends for the year’s most popular shopping period.

Discounts: marked reductions are expected, but targeted at specific categories
For brands, preparing year-end discounts require careful planning to align with consumer preferences. The summer sales period, which represents the highest sales peak before winter promotions, serves as a valuable indicator. AI-based solutions, such as Retviews, are useful to identify and track items that only sell with discounts versus those with high sell-through rates and regular restocking. This allows brands to pinpoint when and where discounts are necessary, optimizing inventory and maximizing profitability.

In particular, Retviews data shows that summer discounts in Europe increased by 6% in 2024 compared to the previous year, suggesting even sharper price cuts for Black Friday and Cyber Monday.

In 2023 the average discount rate slightly decreased compared to 2022 (35% vs 37%); however, weaker summer sales this year indicate a greater quantity of products in stock, which may prompt brands to increase their reductions (following a trend that had already established itself in the United States in 2023, when discount rates had risen to 40%, compared to 37% in 2022).
Strategic and targeted price reductions, however, will help brands maintain margins while also meeting the demands from fashion enthusiasts. So, which product categories are likely to see the most significant discounts?
 
Autumn jackets: full price for suede outerwear, discounts on down jackets
In the autumn-winter season, outerwear is at the heart of collections, with this year's styles ranging from denim and leather to suede. Suede stands out as a premium, on-trend fabric with high consumer demand. For instance, in ZARA's latest collection, suede jackets quickly became bestsellers, with the brand’s blazers consistently selling out and being restocked, despite their premium pricing.
 
The popularity of suede highlights its potential as a full-price item, allowing brands to focus discounts on other pieces and prioritize full-price sales for trend-driven items. Classic and timeless styles continue to dominate, from tailored blazers to sophisticated silhouettes seen in prêt-à-porter, premium, and luxury collections. Meanwhile, down jackets, which are a key part of the Gorpcore trend, could now be considered a less promising investment for brands and may therefore see deeper discounts this Black Friday.

Sneakers: slim fits are bestsellers, while running shoes see lower demand
When it comes to sneakers, there has been a surge in popularity for classic, aerodynamic styles, with consumers gravitating towards slim and basic models inspired by Adidas classics such as Sambas, Gazelles, and Spezials. These slimmer, retro-inspired models are selling out quickly, while more structured sneakers appear to have slower turnover rates. According to Retviews data, retro and colorful sneakers have become bestsellers in brand collections from Adidas, Puma and Zara. On the other hand, bulkier, running-style sneakers are experiencing lower demand, with larger stock levels. Consequently, these items may be subject to special discounts.

Substituting dry curing for traditional water-based techniques, these new textile production solutions greatly reduce water-borne pollution: Green Theme Technologies (GTT), creators of the waterless and PFAS-free EMPEL® textile finishing platform, has teamed up with Golden Long John to promote the next generation of cleaner and more efficient fabric dye and finishing processes.

The textile manufacturing industry generates trillions of gallons of wastewater each year. Traditional textile dyeing and finishing rinses chemical dyes and water repellency onto fabrics. Post-production toxic water is then dumped into rivers and oceans.

Last year, Golden Long John, a major textile supplier of the global footwear industry, introduced GTT’s EMPEL® finishing platform in their Vietnam factories. Their partnership has led to the combination of their two industry leading technologies, the EMPEL® high performance water repellent finish and Golden Long John’s direct dye process.

“We believe, Cleaner IS Better and this is a big step forward for the fashion and textile industries,” said Martin Flora, President of GTT Business Development. “Similar to GTT’s EMPEL® application, Golden Long John applies dye chemistry directly onto fabrics. Better performance with much less pollution is our vision for the future.”

ALLIED Feather + Down (AF+D), a leader in high performance, ethically sourced, and recycled down, announced that their new 1000 Fill Power ExpeDRY down jacket is a 2024 ISPO Award winner.

Created in partnership with Japanese-based textile trading company MN Inter-Fashion, the jacket is made from an extremely rare, traceable 1000 fill power down treated with ALLIED's industry-first ExpeDRY water-resistant, chemical-free technology that more effectively speeds drying via FUZE® Technology’s proprietary gold microparticle treatment. The fabric by Pertex, one of the lightest textiles available, makes up the shell and liner.

With the exceptional lightness of the 1000-fill power down and extremely light weight 5d Pertex fabric, AF+D has succeeded in creating a parka that feels like wearing a cloud. The ExpeDRY technology, which is quickly replacing other water resistant treatments as the industry standard for extreme performance in down insulation, ensures this jacket will remain lofty in any urban or mountain setting, no matter the conditions.

The award-winning 1000 Fill Power jacket joins a growing line of ALLIED apparel that is specifically designed with a look to the future, where the lines between fashion and performance outerwear continue to blur. The complete ALLIED collection is currently available for sale in Japan and Europe.