From the Sector

The partnership between Filo and C.L.A.S.S., the international eco-hub founded by Giusy Bettoni, is renewed once again .
 
At the 63rd edition of Filo, “Sustainability from A to Z” — the service created by Filo in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. and aimed at companies that want to navigate the complex world of sustainability — chooses to focus its showcase on the concept of responsible innovation and the means to expand its knowledge through technical insights, case histories, and direct testimonies. The ultimate goal, shared by Filo and C.L.A.S.S., is to support the industry and the market in making conscious choices that align with the evolving market landscape. In this regard, the proposals that C.L.A.S.S. brings to Filo as part of “Sustainability from A to Z” are closely linked to the debates and discussions taking place in the “Dialoghi di Confronto”, since they provide an additional opportunity for further insight.
 
In the space dedicated to C.L.A.S.S. at the 63rd edition of Filo, projects and solutions implemented by organizations and companies selected by C.L.A.S.S. will be showcased. This season, the focus will be on “green chemistry” and the role of “advanced” natural fibers, particularly in relation to cotton and linen. For the two fibers, companies have often adopted comprehensive innovation strategies, leading to what we define as “advanced” productions, where traceability processes have become an essential requirement.
 
In the C.L.A.S.S. space at Filo63, Cotton is represented by Supima®, a high-quality cotton grown in the United States, accounting for less than 1% of global cotton production. What makes it special compared to other types of cotton is its extra-long staple, which provides superior strength, softness, and long-lasting colour retention. To ensure the authenticity and traceability of its cotton, Supima® has introduced the AQRe™ Project (Authenticated Quality and Responsible Engagement). This cutting-edge system replaces the previous licensing program, offering a blockchain-based digital platform in collaboration with TextileGenesis™, allowing real-time monitoring of the entire supply chain. Additionally, Supima® partners with Oritain™ to conduct forensic testing, verifying the cotton’s origin at every stage of production. This advanced combination of technologies guarantees that every product bearing the SUPIMA® brand is made from high-quality American-grown cotton, meeting the market’s increasing demand for transparency and sustainability.
 
Regarding Linen, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp will be present, the European agro-industrial organization that brings together all actors in the European Flax and Hemp supply chain starting from its fields origin.  2025 is the year of acceleration its sustainable transformation trajectory from the field to the finished product. New developments to be seen:  

• Evolution of its Flax- Linen certifications  
• Launch of a new digital Flax-Linen traceability platform: Flax-Linen traceability platform. European Certified fibres to Retaildeveloped in cooperation with   TextileGenesis - Lectra and set to launch in May 2025. This innovative blockchain-based digital tool enables tracking at every stage of production, ensuring authenticity and full transparency throughout the entire supply chain
• Publication of datasets and development of a specific B2B tool for calculating environmental footprint
• Scientific validation of the functional properties of Flax-Linen
• New Flax-Linen & Hemp sourcing platform for innovative materials and textile & technical solutions

At the C.L.A.S.S. space an Italian story about “green chemistry” will showcase featuring REVECOL® by ERCA Textile Chemical Solutions. REVECOL ® is a revolutionary 100% Made in Italy innovation that utilizes critical waste materials, such as exhausted vegetable cooking oil, transforming it into a next-generation line of safe, certified, high-performance, and competitive chemical auxiliaries designed for the entire textile industry. This unique approach allows for a CO₂ emissions reduction of up to 72% compared to traditional chemistry, setting a new industry standard. The range includes 18 auxiliaries certified according to GRS, RCS, ZDHC, bluesign®, and GOTS, ensuring high performance with a reduced environmental impact. REVECOL® is the missing certified end-to-end element that can drive sustainability, circularity, and performance in the fashion creation process, meeting the needs of a market increasingly focused on traceability and environmental responsibility.
 
Throughout Filo63, the C.L.A.S.S. team will be available to explore these innovations in depth with companies and professionals eager to gain insight into the three pioneering realities redefining sustainability, traceability, and innovation in the textile sector.

A celebration of timeless design powered by ISKO’s SS26 denim fabrics made from recycled materials.

ISKO is proud to collaborate with BLANCHE for the launch of KOKORO, the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Rooted in sustainability, KOKORO embodies BLANCHE’s commitment to timeless design and conscious fashion, with ISKO’s innovative denim at its core.

As a leading denim producer, ISKO is dedicated to redefining the future of fashion through innovative and responsible textile solutions with its fashion-first approach that complements sustainability, emphasising that sustainability need not compromise style. The KOKORO collection – where all denim is crafted using ISKO fabrics – exemplifies this commitment. Thanks to ISKO’s premium recycled denim, the collection maintains high-end quality while significantly reducing its environmental footprint, resulting in beautifully crafted fashion pieces.

“Real change in fashion happens when innovation meets integrity and purpose. Our collaboration
with BLANCHE shows that responsibility and great design are not opposing forces – they
strengthen each other. This is the future of denim: responsible, resilient, and ready to inspire.”
– Keith O’Brien, Senior Global Marketing & PR Manager at ISKO.

The KOKORO collection will be available online and in stores from February 2025.

At the recent Dhaka International Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition (DTG), Jeanologia showcased its integrated ecosystem of technologies designed to drive automation, efficiency, and sustainability across the entire denim production process.

Jeanologia, a global leader in the development of sustainable technologies for the textile industry, wants to reinforcing Bangladesh’s position as the world’s leading denim manufacturer by offering cutting-edge solutions that transform the industry from fabric treatment to garment finishing.

With over 20 years of presence in Bangladesh, Jeanologia continues to be a strategic partner for the country’s leading manufacturers, supporting them in their transition toward a more eco-efficient and competitive industry. By integrating its fabric-to-garment finishing solutions, the company is accelerating the shift towards a new era of digital and sustainable denim production.

Since its founding, Jeanologia has been on a mission to transform the textile industry into a more ethical, sustainable, and efficient model. The company works closely with brands, retailers, and suppliers on this transformative journey, offering disruptive technologies, innovative software, and a new operational model. Their groundbreaking solutions, including laser technology, G2 ozone, Dancing Box, e-flow, H2Zero, and ColorBox, have redefinedgarment design and finishing standards, eliminating polluting processes and significantly reducing the use of water, energy, and chemicals. Thanks to these advancements, Jeanologia has saved millions of liters of water and eliminated harmful substances, turning its vision of a truly sustainable textile industry into reality.

G2 Dynamic: Fabric finishing
Jeanologia’s G2 Dynamic technology is revolutionizing fabric treatment and garment finishing by replacing highly polluting conventional processes with an eco-efficient ozone-based alternative. This solution significantly reduces the environmental impact of denim manufacturing by cutting water and chemical consumption by up to 95% and energy use by 80%.

Automated, digital, and sustainable garment finishing
Beyond fabric treatment, Jeanologia provides advanced garment finishing solutions that integrate automation, digitalization, and sustainability. These include Laser technology, a fully digital and automated system that replaces traditional manual and chemical-intensive processes, increasing precision and creativity while reducing environmental impact; G2 Indra, based on Airwash technology, this eco-efficient solution achieves authentic vintage and aged denim looks without using water or chemicals, reducing environmental impact while maintaining fabric integrity; e-Flow, a nanobubble technology that applies chemicals using minimal water, drastically reducing waste, and improving fabric performance; and H2 Zero, a water recycling system that enables zero discharge in the finishing process, making garment production more sustainable and resource-efficient.

“Our goal is to transform the denim industry by offering an end-to-end solution that enables a more responsible, automated, and sustainable production model. Bangladesh plays a key role in this transformation, and our technologies support the country’s leadership in the global market,” said Jean Pierre Inchauspe, Jeanologia’s Business Director in Asia.

Pioneering a new era in sustainable fashion, TrusTrace, adidas, and Tapestry are set to headline a thought-provoking panel at SXSW 2025 titled "Honest Marketing and Circularity: A New Era for Fashion." This session will delve into the imperative of transparent data in guiding consumers towards environmentally conscious purchases and the transformative role of data and Digital Product Passports in fostering deeper brand-consumer connections. Registration is now open here.

Kicking off SXSW on opening day, March 7th, at 2:30 PM CT, this panel will bring together industry leaders to share key sustainability insights and explore fashion’s evolution from a storytelling-driven industry to one built on transparency, featuring:

• Sigrid Buehrle, adidas SVP Sustainability and ESG
• Logan Duran, Tapestry VP of ESG and Sustainability
• Anja Sadock, TrusTrace SVP of Marketing
• Brooke Roberts-Islam, TECHSTYLER Founder, Forbes Senior Contributor Sustainability (Moderator)

“For years, adidas has been dedicated to increasing the use of recycled materials in our products, incorporating third-party certified cotton and ensuring our leather is processed to the highest standards set by the Leather Working Group,” said Sigrid Buehrle, SVP Sustainability and ESG at adidas. “However, tracking material information from raw material to finished products needs robust data and systems. Providing transparent information about our products is of utmost importance to adidas, as we know that it drives trust and credibility with consumers and other stakeholders.”

“Transparency in sustainability claims and reporting is simply a business imperative.” said Logan Duran, VP of ESG and Sustainability at Tapestry. “Brands that ground communication in facts and not promises build stronger trust with their customers, investors, and stakeholders. Companies that prioritize transparency and data-driven accountability can drive real environmental impact while ensuring they meet the rising expectations for corporate responsibility.”

“We’re on the verge of a major shift in the fashion industry,” said Anja Sadock, SVP of Marketing at TrusTrace. “Advancements in technology and AI have made data-driven transparency more accessible than ever, unlocking new opportunities to drive real impact, strengthen consumer trust, and empower shoppers to make more sustainable choices.”

Brooke Roberts-Islam, a renowned writer and consultant on sustainability in the fashion industry, will moderate the discussion, using her expertise to explore how brands can navigate the evolving landscape of sustainability and consumer expectations. “Fashion marketing has long been marred by unsubstantiated and confusing sustainability claims. Brands now have an obligation–and a powerful opportunity–to share evidence-based sustainability information to empower consumers, level the playing field and re-build trust.”

Kornit Digital LTD., a global pioneer in sustainable, on-demand digital fashion and textile production technologies, announced that American Classics Apparel, Inc., a top wholesaler of licensed music, movie, and gaming apparel, is adopting the Kornit Apollo platform. This next-generation direct-to-garment powerhouse accelerates the company’s shift from traditional screen printing to high-speed digital production – ensuring it can keep pace with the surging customer demand and rapid growth of the e-tailer marketplace.
 
Headquartered in Hanceville, Alabama, American Classics has been a trusted name in licensed apparel for nearly three decades – offering iconic designs from beloved brands in music (AC/DC), movies (Rocky) and television (Cheers). Sold through retailers like Walmart and online platforms such as Amazon, their products define fan gear excellence.
 
With the addition of Kornit Apollo to its arsenal on top of Kornit Atlas MAX POLY production and range of earlier Kornit direct-to-garment systems – the company is ready to deliver faster, more efficiently and with unmatched quality.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), National Chamber of the Textile Industry (CANAINTEX), and Canadian Textile Industry Association (CTIA) issued a joint statement urging President Donald Trump to reach a deal with Mexico and Canada to avoid imposing 25 percent tariffs on imports from these countries and to close the de minimis loophole immediately.

“All three of our countries are partners in a vital textile and apparel coproduction chain that generates $20 billion in two-way trade and helps support over 1.6 million jobs under the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) — a trade deal that was negotiated during President Trump’s first term in office,” the associations said.

The U.S. textile industry ships $12.3 billion, or 53 percent, of its total global textile exports to Mexico and Canada. Those inputs come back as finished products to the United States under the USMCA.

Mexico exports $9 billion in textile and apparel to the United States. Mexico is the 4th largest exporter of textiles and the 6th largest exporter of apparel to the United States.

Canada exports approximately $1.8 billion in textiles and apparel to the United States and Mexico, with the United States being the destination for 64 percent of its total global textile export, including high-quality flame-resistant materials and medical equipment including PPE.

“While we fully support President Trump’s efforts to stem illegal migration and to address the fentanyl crisis as quickly as possible, we urge the administration to refrain from imposing penalty tariffs on imports from USMCA partners. We are focused on ensuring a normalized trading relationship between our countries,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “Imposing penalty tariffs on imports from critical U.S. free trade agreement (FTA) partners will only serve to benefit China and other Asian countries that don’t play by the rules and to harm the U.S. textile industry and manufacturers in our Western Hemisphere supply chains.”

“As part of any deal with Mexico, Canada—and China—we also call on the Trump administration to end the de minimis tariff exemption immediately for imports from all countries. This loophole in U.S. trade law, which allows imports valued at $800 or less to enter the United States duty-free hurts our textile and apparel industries, rewards countries like China, and helps facilitate the flow of illegal and toxic products, such as fentanyl and fentanyl precursors into the U.S. market,” Glas added.

“Despite steps taken by our countries to prevent the importation of goods that are undervalued, made with forced labor or transshipped, we have seen firsthand how the Asian market has gained an unfair advantage through predatory trade practices, displacing companies and workers in our industries and undermining our critical coproduction chain,” said Rafael Zaga Saba President of CANAINTEX.

“Canada is seeking to preserve our strong coproduction chain with Mexico and the United States which spurs investment, trade and employment in our three countries,” said Jeff Ayoub, Chairman of the Board of CTIA. “These additional tariffs would harm our industries and workers, and we urge President Trump stop these expected tariffs from being imposed.”

“We look forward to working closely with the Trump administration and continuing to educate officials about the adverse impact of penalty tariffs on imports from Western Hemisphere countries and de minimis on our industries and workers, while highlighting the critical nature of our strong coproduction chain, which contributes to our overall investment, job growth, and economic stability,” the associations jointly added.

NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers.

• U.S. employment in the textile and apparel supply chain was 501,755 in 2023.
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $64.8 billion in 2023.
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $29.7 billion in 2023.
• Capital expenditures for textiles and apparel production totaled $2.27 billion in 2021, the last year for which data is available.

CANAINTEX is a Mexico City-based trade association representing Mexican textile producers.

• The textile industry in Mexico provides over 1.1 million jobs.
• Mexican textile exports are projected to reach 9 billion USD in 2024.
• Mexico is the 4th largest exporter of textiles and the 6th largest exporter of apparel to the United States.
• One out of every three pairs of pants sold in the U.S. is made in Mexico.
• With 36% domestic content in its exports, the textile industry generates the highest value-added of any manufacturing sector in the country.

CTIA represents domestic textile manufacturers across Canada, advocating for policies that support innovation, sustainability, and growth in the sector.

• The Canadian textile industry employs approximately 30,000 textile and apparel workers.
• The total value of shipments for Canadian textiles and apparel was approximately C$7.5 billion in 2023.
• Canada exported approximately US$2.66 billion in textiles in 2023, with 64% (US$1.71 billion) going to the United States.

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, welcomes the European Commission’s Clean Industrial Deal, which aims to pave the way for a sustainable, climate-neutral and competitive industry. Commission President Ursula von der Leyen discussed the initiative on Wednesday, February 26, 2025, together with 400 business leaders, including the CEO of the Lenzing Group, Rohit Aggarwal, in Antwerp (Belgium). The industry is calling on EU heads of state and government to take urgent measures in all EU member states without delay ahead of the upcoming European Council meeting in March.

“International trade tensions, volatile energy markets, and the need to decarbonise industries demand urgent collective action. We must continue to support Europe’s green leadership and ensure that those investing in sustainability are incentivised. We must act now, work together and translate ambition into tangible results”, emphasizes Rohit Aggarwal, CEO of Lenzing Group. “The Clean Industrial Deal is an important initiative for Europe’s industrial and sustainable future. It will strengthen Europe’s net-zero industry, expand green technology manufacturing, and enhance industrial competitiveness.”

One important aspect is access to affordable and clean energy, which is crucial for the global position and competitiveness of the industry.

“We appreciate the Commission President taking the time to join us today in Antwerp to present the Clean Industrial Deal. Nine out of ten calls of the Antwerp Declaration have been addressed. We need to transform Europe’s ambition ‘to be’, into a determination ‘to do’. Every day, Europe is falling behind its goals, and is losing quality jobs for our current and future generations of workers. In the turbulent times we are in we need bold action from the European Leadership,” said Ilham Kadri, President of the European Chemical Industry Council, Cefic.

Europe’s industries are facing historical challenges: declining demand, stalled investments, reduced capacity, and EU gas prices at 4 to 5 times higher than its competitors. Between 2023 and 2024, Europe’s manufacturing output – a sector employing over 31 million people – dropped another 2.6 percent. While for the chemicals industry – the industry of industries – Cefic’s recent study emphasised the severity, with over 11 million tons of capacity announced to be closed between 2023 and 2024, affecting 21 major sites.

To overcome these challenges, back in February 2024, 73 business leaders presented the Antwerp Declaration to Commission President, Ursula von der Leyen and former Belgian Prime Minister Alexander De Croo. The Antwerp Declaration lays out 10 concrete actions to restore the business case for investments, to implement Europe’s sustainability ambitions and safeguard quality jobs in Europe. It is now signed by over 1,300 signatories.

“Reading the Clean Industrial Deal, we need the Commission to focus, prioritise the three key actions that improve our situation already this year and put all power, boldness and bravery in the European Commission behind these. And give us a realistic planning for the remaining actions. When we say actions, we mean action, not strategies, policies or plans. Leave no stone unturned and break all taboos. We need the situation to change.” Marco Mensink, Cefic Director General.

“Cefic calls on all new EU initiatives to be evaluated against the following criteria: Do they keep Europe safe and independent, reduce energy prices, ease the administrative burden on companies, attract investments to Europe, create markets for sustainable products, and safeguard quality jobs in Europe? If the answer to any of these questions is no, EU policymakers should reconsider and revise the proposal accordingly.”

At the Egypt Stitch & Tex fair, held from February 20 to 23 in Cairo, Jeanologia, a global leader in textile technology innovation, showcased its solutions aiming to revolutionize textile finishing in Egypt and beyond.
 
At Egypt Stitch & Tex, Jeanologia highlighted the synergy between some of its most advanced technologies, including laser, G2 Indra, eFlow + DB 420, and H2 Zero. These solutions are making a significant impact on global textile production and might be essential to the future of Egypt’s textile sector.
 
Jeanologia’s pioneering laser technology—refined over 25 years— offers a fully automated process that replaces harmful traditional techniques. By eliminating dangerous practices for workers and the environment, this innovative laser not only ensures safer operations but also unlocks endless creative possibilities, enhances design quality, and boosts productivity for manufacturers.
 
Complementing the laser is the G2 Indra technology, the perfect partner in achieving a sustainable finishing process. Instead of washing with water and chemicals, G2 Indra uses air, significantly reducing chemical usage and water consumption. Today, the combination of these two technologies has permanently eliminated the need for PP spray and the stone wash process, marking a decisive shift toward cleaner, more efficient production.

With the Fraunhofer Innovation Platform for Fibers, Processing and Recycling Solutions at Innovative Composite Center FIP-MIRAI@ICC, the Fraunhofer Institute for Casting, Composite and Processing Technology IGCV and the Innovative Composite Center (ICC), Kanazawa Institute of Technology (KIT) in Kanazawa area are setting new standards in the circular economy. With a total budget of 2 million euros - half funded by the Fraunhofer-Society and half by the ICC - the platform aims to develop solutions to global challenges in the field of composite recycling. A Fraunhofer Innovation Platform (FIP) is a temporary research unit hosted and operated by a research institution abroad, which is set up in close cooperation with one or more Fraunhofer Institutes in Germany. With “Mirai”, the Japanese word for “future”, the FIP-MIRAI@ICC sends out a clear signal: Waste is seen as a valuable resource and reused through new technologies. The aim is to create a forward-looking circular economy that guarantees sustainability for future generations. At the heart of the five-year cooperation (2025-2029) is a central location in Kanazawa area, which brings together researchers from the Fraunhofer IGCV and the ICC with companies, universities and customers.

Global challenges as an opportunity for innovation
The increasing use of composite materials in industries such as aerospace, wind energy and sports is leading to rising volumes of hard-to-recycle waste. As early as 2023, 75 kilotons of carbon fiber waste were produced worldwide, and 350 kilotons are expected by 2028 in aviation alone. The growing use of hydrogen technologies in mobility and transportation will further exacerbate this problem.

Technological innovations for sustainability
The German-Japanese collaboration pools technological expertise: the Fraunhofer IGCV contributes its expertise in fiber-matrix separation, quality assurance of recyclates and the wet-laid process, while the ICC contributes its pressing processes and continuous double-belt press technology. Together, this creates a unique “one-stop-shop” offering for companies looking for solutions for the recycling of composite materials.

Appearance at the JEC World 2025
A first insight into the work of FIP-MIRAI@ICC will be provided at JEC World 2025 in Paris, where the platform will be represented at the Japan Pavilion. Companies, researchers and industry experts are invited to visit the stand and discuss the latest developments.

A boost for the circular economy
FIP-MIRAI@ICC aims to act as a catalyst for sustainable technologies and transform waste streams into valuable resources. The close partnership between German and Japanese players paves the way for a sustainable and future-proof industry. With this initiative, science and industry are joining forces to turn global challenges into opportunities. With the vision of promoting ecological and economic sustainability, FIP-MIRAI@ICC is setting new standards in international cooperation.

Klopman, a European leader in the production of fabrics for workwear, and TDV Industries, a France-based company specializing in textiles for technical and military clothing, completed an innovative project for the creation of an advanced tool to calculate the Life Cycle Assessment of their fabrics. The tool has obtained the well-recognized EPD (Environmental Product Declaration) certification from Environdec.

The EPD certification validates the methodology and results of a product's Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), a rigorous methodology that evaluates the environmental impact of a given product throughout all phases of its life cycle: from raw material extraction to production, usage, and disposal. This approach provides a comprehensive and accurate overview of environmental impacts, and the production processes involved. LCA allows for the measurement of parameters such as greenhouse gas emissions, energy consumption, water usage, and other environmental indicators, offering a scientific basis for improving efficiency and reducing the ecological footprint of products.

The Environmental Product Declaration (EPD) is a certified verification system that ensures a transparent and reliable assessment of a product's environmental impact. This certification follows international standards and enables companies to demonstrate their commitment to sustainability, improving transparency with customers and business partners.

Thanks to the new tool, Klopman and TDV Industries can now accurately calculate the environmental impact of each stage of their fabric production. This allows both companies to generate complete EPD certifications in compliance with international regulations, ensuring greater transparency and credibility for their products.

"Our Group has always been committed to sustainability projects, both within the company and regarding the products we bring to the market. Today, with this tool, we want to provide our customers with clear answers about the impact of our fabrics in terms of CO2 emissions, water, and land consumption, but also beyond that," says Amaury Sartorius, Group Commercial Director and Managing Director of Klopman. "The textile industry is undergoing a transition toward more sustainable production processes, and this project fits perfectly within this evolution. With this tool, we aim to produce fabrics with an increasingly lower environmental impact, thereby helping our customers in their sustainability and decarbonization journeys (such as SBTi).”