From the Sector

At the next edition of Milano Unica, the leading international trade fair for high-end fabrics and accessories, scheduled to take place at Rho Fiera Milano from July 8 to 10, ACIMIT (the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) will participate for the first time with an institutional booth.

Through this initiative, ACIMIT aims to foster connections between its member companies, exhibitors, and buyers attending Milano Unica, while also promoting greater awareness of the cutting-edge technological solutions that define the Italian textile machinery industry—particularly in the areas of sustainability, circular economy, and digitalization.

Marco Salvadè, President of ACIMIT: “I believe it is essential for our Association to be present at such a significant trade event. The synergy between Italian excellence in textiles and textile machinery has always been, and continues to be, a key factor in strengthening the leadership of the entire Italian textile supply chain.”

A much more sustainable, cost effective and very flexible process for manufacturing critical fibres based on ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) is being launched by the UK’s Fibre Extrusion Technologies (FET).

UHMWPE is prized in many industries due to its extraordinary properties. The fibre is, for example, ten times stronger than steel by weight, while exhibiting outstanding abrasion resistance, low friction and high impact strength. UHMWPE fibres are also chemically inert, resistant to most chemicals and UV light and do not absorb water. They maintain performance in a wide range of temperatures and despite their toughness are extremely lightweight.

As a result, they are unbeatable in demanding applications such as high-performance ropes in maritime industrial and rescue applications. In addition, they are invaluable in ballistic protection, cut-resistant clothing and high-performance sports gear – and increasingly in medical implants.

Biomedical market
“FET has supplied many extrusion systems to the biomedical market, most notably for the production of both resorbable and non-absorbable sutures,” says FET Managing Director Richard Slack. “In exploring what else we could do in assisting these customers, it became clear that there was a need for smaller quantities of UHMWPE fibres in bespoke sizes.”

“The current systems for manufacturing UHMWPE filament yarns are on a huge scale, with very complex processing routes,” adds Research and Development Manager Jonny Hunter. “This means the supply chain is currently very inflexible with minimal opportunity for new product development. These disadvantages have been fully addressed in the development of our new FET-500 series lab and small scale gel spinning system.”

Solvent extraction
A major FET innovation is the introduction of a patented batch system for solvent extraction exploiting supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2).

UHMWPE production, until now, has involved the use of large volumes of hazardous solvents such as dichloromethane (DCM) or hexane. The UHMWPE powder is mixed with mineral oil to form a gel which is subsequently extruded, cooled and solidified. The oil is then extracted from the fibres using DCM or hexane and the solid fibres are then drawn at high temperature to further align the polymer chains, resulting in final strong and tough fibres. Typically, it takes 10 kg of Hexane to extract 1 kg of oil. 

“Solvent reclamation using extraction baths and hot air drying chambers is not practical for the scale of our system,” explains FET’s Senior Material and Process Scientist Kris Kortsen. “The current baths employed can be up to 200 metres long and the waste volumes are considerable. Expertise is needed in dealing with such dangerous chemicals and overall the process has an immense environmental impact.

“CO2, by contrast, is a cheap and abundant sustainable solvent that is non-toxic, non-flammable and leaves no residue.” 

Closed loop
FET’s closed-loop system can achieve more than 95% solvent recovery without loss of performance, resulting in residue-free UHMWPE filament yarns via a vastly improved route in terms of both safety and logistics.

A further innovation is the highly modular drawing system based on heated godet rollers, enabling flexible temperature and drawing control for new product development and the ability to be expanded at any time to meet customer needs.

A comprehensive LCA study detailing the full savings potential is currently being prepared and will be published shortly.

“Having processed over 130 separate polymers in the development of our extrusion systems, we believe the FET-500 is a game changer,” concludes Richard Slack. “We believe there is a big gap in the market for smaller quantities of UHMWPE, and our first line is now fully operational at the FET Fibre Development Centre in Leeds. We look forward to demonstrating it and discussing its full potential with interested companies from around the world.”

Source Fashion, a leading destination for responsible sourcing and fashion innovation, has launched a landmark report tackling one of the fashion industry’s most pressing but least addressed issues: overproduction.

Titled “Do We Really Need to Produce So Much?”, the report—developed in collaboration with retail futures consultancy Insider Trends—offers a data-rich exploration of the scale, causes, and consequences of overproduction. It presents forward-thinking solutions for brands looking to remain competitive while reducing waste and environmental impact. The full report is now available for download at Source Fashion – Overproduction Report 2025.

Overproduction: A Costly and Widespread Issue
The report reveals that the global fashion industry produces between 80 and 150 billion garments annually—yet up to 40% remain unsold, frequently ending up in landfill, incineration, or markdown bins. Despite the environmental and financial toll, only 1% of fashion brands are actively working to reduce production volumes. 

A New Blueprint for Fashion
Rather than simply highlighting the problem, the report presents actionable models already being piloted by leading brands and retailers:

• On-Demand Production – Producing only what is needed, when it’s needed, to eliminate excess stock.
• Circular Design – Creating garments designed to be reused, repaired, or recycled, thereby extending their lifecycle.
• Retail-as-a-Service – Shifting from ownership to access models such as rental, resale, and subscription.
• Collaborative Creation – Co-designing with consumers to ensure relevancy and reduce waste.

As the report states, “Brands can reduce production without reducing profit. In fact, in many cases, it increases margins and strengthens consumer trust.” The publication includes case studies from brands already implementing these approaches, demonstrating commercial viability alongside sustainability gains.

A Turning Point for Retail
The report arrives at a pivotal moment for fashion, as the industry faces shifting consumer expectations, economic uncertainty, and growing pressure from both regulators and investors.

Suzanne Ellingham, Sourcing Director at Source said, “This report highlights the uncomfortable truth behind retails success — that excess production is built into the model with volume is the only way to increase profits. As we approach 2025, companies must question not only how they produce, but how much, and how they deal with . There are real over production and excess. Opportunities for those willing to embrace a leaner, smarter, more circular future.”

It is estimated that around 100 billion items of clothing are currently produced worldwide, most of which will end up in recycling processes. Sorting these old textiles by hand requires an enormous amount of human labour. A research team is now developing new technologies that will enable robotic grippers to sort textiles more effectively.

“At present, automatic sorting systems mainly use contactless methods, such as visual and near-infrared sensors. But when people sort old textiles, they can do much more: When they touch the textiles, they can also quickly classify what should be reused and what should be recycled based on the feel of the fabric”, Hubert Zangl, project manager of AdapTex at the Department of Smart Systems Technologies at the University of Klagenfurt explains. If you want robotic grippers to perform this work, he goes on to explain, many challenges remain: “Physical interaction with objects and the evaluation of haptic feedback are not yet sufficiently developed in robotics. When sorting textiles, robots have to work in a complex environment with randomly assembled quantities of textiles made from different materials and in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Contamination can further complicate matters.”

The central factor here is the gripping process, which is crucial for the effective sorting of these materials in recycling plants. The research team is therefore focusing on improving the physical interaction between the robot gripper and the textiles with the aim of improving both the handling and the classification of the textiles. To this end, the researchers are developing textile-based, adaptive sensor skins for the robotic grippers. “These will be intelligent materials containing networks of sensors and actuators that can adapt optimally when touched,” says Hubert Zangl. The unique properties of AdapTex skin offer potential not only for use in textile recycling, but also in many other areas of the textile industry, such as sportswear, lifestyle clothing, and rehabilitation garments. It might also be possible to use the improved capabilities and functions for robots deployed in industrial manufacturing and automation.

The AdapTex project is coordinated at the University of Klagenfurt and the AAU/SAL USE Lab. The project partners are Grabher Group GmbH, Infineon Technologies Austria AG, Silicon Austria Labs GmbH and V-trion GmbH. AdapTex is supported by the Austrian Research Promotion Agency FFG.

Since 1865, Carnet, a division of the Ratti Group, has been weaving stories of elegance and craftsmanship. Today, drawing on this legacy, it redefines the language of tailoring in a contemporary key, transforming the selection of a fabric into an immersive and surprising experience.

On the upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo, Carnet presents “Fabrics On-The- Go”, a project that merges sartorial tradition with technological innovation, engaging visitors through an interactive and captivating experience. Attendees will be invited to challenge themselves with content inspired by the world of tailoring and fashion, following a journey designed to spark curiosity and deepen understanding of the textile universe. Among the highlights: exclusive fabrics, personalized accessories, and a special Golden Fabric.

The project is realized in collaboration with four outstanding names from the Italian and international textile scene — Bemberg by Asahi Kasei, Brunello, Ferla, and Tessuti di Sondrio. This synergy represents not only a shared showcase but also a statement of intent: to celebrate Italian excellence through a forward-looking sartorial vision that never loses sight of its roots.

With this initiative, Carnet confirms its role as a curator of excellence and a promoter of a tailoring approach that blends craftsmanship, modernity, and technology. The goal is clear: to make the world of tailoring a relevant, inclusive, and culturally vibrant experience.

“We want fabric to once again become a conscious and inspirational choice when building one’s wardrobe,” says Tim Neckebroeck, Head of Carnet.

It is no coincidence that the project debuts at Pitti Uomo, the benchmark stage for contemporary men’s fashion. An international event that brings together luxury brands, top-tier tailors, buyers, and creatives — the ideal venue to present Carnet’s modern vision, a forerunner since 1865, capable of reinventing itself without ever losing the thread of its heritage.

The countdown has begun for the Garment Tech Istanbul Exhibition. The ready-to-wear and garment sector, which has a significant share in Turkiye's exports, will come together at the Garment Tech Istanbul Garment, Embroidery Machines Spare Parts and Sub-Industry Exhibition to be held at the Istanbul Expo Center (IFM) between June 25-28. The latest technologies used in all stages of the production processes, from sewing to embroidery, from cutting to ironing systems, from packaging to denim, will be exhibited at the Garment Tech Istanbul Exhibition.

Companies will Have the Opportunity to Modernize Their Production Processes
The exhibition, which will host professional visitors and global buyers in Istanbul for 4 days, wants to announce Turkiye's leadership in garment and ready-to-wear to the whole world and will be the center of innovation. The exhibition, where innovative technologies such as artificial intelligence-supported production systems, automatic sewing, embroidery, cutting and spreading machines, automation systems, ironing and pressing solutions and packaging systems will be exhibited, claims to shed light on the garment technologies of the future. The exhibition will provide companies operating in the garment and ready-to-wear sector with the opportunity to modernize their production processes and gain competitive advantage.

Turkiye's textile and ready-to-wear sector has been experiencing a serious recession due to economic difficulties, especially in the last two years. The Garment Tech Istanbul Exhibition will be a turning point for the sector to rise again during this difficult period. The world's and Turkiye's leading ready-to-wear technology manufacturers will have the opportunity to come together with global buyers, establish new business connections and bring dynamism to the sector. The companies participating in the exhibition, which will be equipped with innovative machinery and production systems, will have the chance to increase their export volumes and gain a stronger position in global markets.

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has updated its report on Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge with new topics in line with the European Union’s Competitiveness Compass and the Clean Industrial Deal. Specific scientific research is needed to better protect people and the environment from hazardous chemicals and to develop balanced and effective regulatory measures.

The report introduces new topics to reflect ECHA’s growing responsibilities. It also covers emerging topics in waste and recycling that aim to support circularity and enhance Europe’s industrial competitiveness. 

For example, more specific research is needed on:  

• chemical emissions and exposure from the waste stage of materials to help create more accurate emission estimates to avoid potentially over-conservative regulatory measures;
• recycled non-fossil fuel resources, to improve our understanding of their hazards and support EU policies that aim to reduce pollution and promote sustainable growth; and
• the valuing of environmental impacts to assess the effectiveness and proportionality of chemicals regulation and specific regulatory actions under, for example, REACH and the Batteries Regulation.

Dr Sharon McGuinness, ECHA’s Executive Director, said: 
“Since ECHA’s first report in 2023, we have seen important, regulatory-relevant scientific research get underway. For example, new research has been initiated on developing analytical methods to detect and measure PFAS for use by enforcement authorities and on generating monitoring data on a specific phthalate that is a chemical of concern.   

“Our updated report reflects the European Commission’s Clean Industry Deal and Competitiveness Compass, by inviting more specific research to support the circular economy and innovation in Europe.”

Other research needs added to the report include developing better methods to monitor chemicals in water environments, such as rivers, lakes, and oceans, and how chemicals can contaminate drinking water from materials that come into contact with it.

Background
The Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge report is part of an evolving research and development agenda aiming to support and inspire the research community. The list of research needs is not exhaustive. The report reflects ECHA’s current priorities, including the Agency’s new tasks. It was originally developed to support the work under the Partnership for the assessment of risk from chemicals (PARC). 

PARC is a seven-year EU wide research and innovation programme under Horizon Europe which aims to advance research, share knowledge and improve skills in chemical regulatory risk assessment.

ECHA’s role in PARC is to ensure that the funded scientific research addresses current regulatory challenges related to chemical risk assessment and adds value to the EU’s regulatory processes.

Textiles functionalized with antiviral agents are intended to reduce the risk of transmission of pathogens, particularly in a medical environment. These antiviral properties must be carefully tested and verified in laboratory tests. The biological testing laboratory of the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) has examined antiviral activities with coronaviruses as part of an interdisciplinary research project on textiles for infection control.

Viruses can survive on plastic surfaces or textiles for several hours to days. These surfaces therefore play an important role in the transmission of viruses as pathogens. Numerous studies were done on this topic during the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic. Textiles treated with antiviral agents can help to reduce this risk of transmission. This offers added value, especially for textiles used in medical environments.

In order to confirm these antiviral properties, laboratory tests are the state of the art and help to minimize trials in a medical environment. However, working with viruses is very complex and elaborate, as viruses cannot be proliferated on culture media like bacteria. By definition, viruses are not living organisms because they are dependent on host cells to replicate. For laboratory tests, this means that both technical expertise in microbiology and in cell culture technology must be combined for successful work. For laboratory activities involving human and animal pathogens, official authorization is required. The DITF biological testing laboratory is authorized for work with pathogens in accordance with the German Infection Protection Act and the Animal Pathogens Ordinance up to risk group 2. These are microorganisms that can cause disease in humans or animals which can be well controlled generally.

Usually test laboratories carry out antiviral tests with so-called bacteriophages because they are easier to handle. These viruses use bacteria as host cells to replicate. A different, more realistic approach was taken at the DITF as part of a research project. Here, antiviral activity was determined against a coronavirus. With the MHV virus, a corona virus was chosen that is genetically very closely related to the SARS-CoV-2 virus and uses eukaryotic cells as a host. Eukaryotic cells are cells with a nucleus such as those found in humans and animals. The test procedure for determining the antiviral efficacy against coronaviruses had to be adapted to both the viruses and the host cells. In case the host cells are infected by the viruses and used as a “replication machine”, these cells show damages, so-called cytopathic effects, which are clearly visible under the light microscope. The visible damages to the host cells are used to determine the number of viruses indirectly as they are not visible under the light microscope due to their very small size.

As part of the joint research project with Heraeus Precious Metals GmbH & Co. KG to develop antimicrobial protective clothing for infection control based on AGXX® technology, a test protocol was developed at the DITF biological laboratory to determine the antiviral activity against a coronavirus. A significant inactivation of MHV coronaviruses of more than 99 percent was demonstrated in textiles finished with AGXX®. The tests on the antiviral properties of textiles against a coronavirus make an important contribution to the development and quality control of antiviral textiles.

RUDOLF, a leading global specialty chemicals company, announces the appointment of Anup Jain as Chief Financial Officer (CFO) and member of the Executive Leadership Team, effective June 1, 2025.

Anup joined RUDOLF in January 2024 and has since served as Asia Commercial Director, successfully advancing strategic projects, commercial alignment, and reporting structures across the region. Based in Singapore, Anup has played a pivotal role in enhancing the company’s commercial operations and establishing stronger synergies between global and local teams.

Anup on his new role: “I am truly honored to be appointed CFO. I look forward to working with the leadership team to further strengthen RUDOLF’s financial resilience and to contribute to its sustainable success.”

With a distinguished career in the specialty chemicals industry, Anup brings broad international leadership experience across Finance, Business Management, Commercial, and Supply Chain functions. Prior to joining RUDOLF, he held senior finance and operational roles at globally operating companies in India, Switzerland, and Singapore. He is a Chartered Accountant, holds an MBA, and is a trained Lean Six Sigma Black Belt.

Dr. Wolfgang A. Schumann, Co-Chairman of the Board of Directors says: “We are thrilled to welcome Anup to this new position. His deep understanding of our industry and his proven ability to lead finance functions in complex, international environments make him the ideal choice to support our growth strategy.”

Marcos Furrer, CEO of RUDOLF Holding SE & Co. KG, adds: “Anup is a strategic thinker with strong financial acumen and a collaborative leadership style. With him as CFO, we are well-positioned to align our financial strategy with our innovation roadmap and global expansion objectives.” 

RUDOLF’s decision to elevate Anup to its Executive Leadership Team underlines the Group’s commitment to building a future-focused leadership structure capable of driving innovation, operational excellence, and long-term growth.

Modern Meadow, a U.S.-based leader in bio-design, has chosen Menabò Group as its partner for the development of the INNOVERA™ brand and the development of its global communication strategy. 
 
With over forty years of experience in integrated communication, the Italian agency led every phase of the project, from the creation of the visual identity and brand payoff to the definition of strategic positioning. Menabò also oversaw the concept, design, and content of the dedicated website; supported brand communications across online and offline touchpoints; assisted during major international trade events; and developed media relations assets for global outreach. 

INNOVERA™, previously known as BIO-VERA®, is crafted using plant-based proteins, biopolymers and recycled rubber, achieving more than 80% renewable carbon content. Completely animal-free, INNOVERA™ replicates the look and feel of collagen found in leather, yet it is lightweight, twice as strong as traditional leather, and available in various colors, haptics and finishes. 
 
INNOVERA™ is not presented as an outright alternative to animal leather, but as a lowimpact, high-performance option that tanneries and brands can offer their customers across fashion, footwear, the automotive industry, and interior design, while upholding the highest standards in aesthetics and quality. 
 
The official debut of INNOVERA™ took place at the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen, the premier international event for sustainable innovation in fashion, held from June 3 to 5. Alongside the product showcase, Modern Meadow contributed to the summit dialogue with the participation of its CEO David Williamson, PhD, in the panel discussion “Bio-Design Futures,” which explored the future of bio-design and the role of renewable materials. 
 
In an environment where sustainability communication demands transparency and credibility, Menabò Group shaped a storytelling approach that highlights INNOVERA™’s tangible benefits and performance qualities. With this project, the agency reinforces its international presence as a trusted partner for brands driving innovation and sustainability on a global scale.