From the Sector

As of December 2025, Mr Matthias Schwetzel, MBA, has taken over management of OETI - Institute for Ecology, Technology and Innovation GmbH – from retired Robert Löcker, MBA. He brings more than 15 years of international leadership experience in the environmental and testing services sector, including at Eurofins, and has in-depth expertise in strategic management and change management in global markets.

Baptized Very Middle Ages, the new trend book from Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris outlines the directions that will guide – in a world under pressure – the Spring-Summer 2027 collections. It will be unveiled from February 2 to 4, 2026 at the Paris-Le Bourget Exhibition Center. 

Geopolitical tensions, social expectations, digital transformations, shifting markets... At a time when fashion (and the world) is going through strong turbulence, Very Middle Ages chooses to look to the future by invoking a reinvented past. Not as a nostalgic refuge, but as a magnifying mirror of our contemporary tensions. 

This new edition of the Trend Book offers ideas to help creators combine imagination and a desire for renewal while developing the Spring-Summer 2027 collections. It explores a universe often dark, mixing protection, conflict, magic, and augmented identity: a reworked, digital, imagined Middle Ages used as a metaphor for current upheavals. 

Four creative Universes to “rearm” imagination 
Directed by Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, the artistic directors of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, this document is based on the reflections of a collective of stylists, designers, writers, and artists brought together around one question: how do you create in a world that doubts its own ability to imagine? From this question comes a vision made of four narratives showing different points of friction between reality and expectations: a return to primitive function, comforting digital illusions, warrior attitudes in the face of crises, and the constant expansion of the “digital self”. 
 
Rather than a fixed projection, Very Middle Ages offers a sensitive, instinctive (and sometimes unsettling) reading of the Spring-Summer 2027 season. An invitation to rethink clothing as a tool of protection, affirmation, resistance, or transformation, in a world where the borders between real and virtual, natural and artificial, past and future have never been so blurred. 
 
#1 Digital lordship. This first theme elevates the giants of Silicon Valley to the rank of all-powerful overlords. Individuals, voluntary vassals of these contemporary digital empires, give up intimacy and freedom in exchange for an illusory safety. Protection and control: two expectations expressed in a fashion made of layered, highly functional pieces. Symbolic shells of heavy fabrics, textile-like armor (metal-coated finishes), rigid ribbed knits treated in steel gray, charcoal black, with silver holographic accents. 

#2 Nuclear sorcery. Although this colored universe brings a form of “reenchantment,” it resembles an aesthetic of illusion. Technology (AI), which threatens to bring a new obscurantism by numbing reasoning, is paradoxically felt as an artificial comfort. The silhouettes here are full of soft deception, protective and velvety materials (iridescent organza, translucent fabrics, foamy knits, light mohair, “second skin” jerseys), in an atmosphere of techno magic, between enveloping cocoon and “digital aura.” The palette moves between spectral purples, carmine red, opaline, and “radioactive” greens. 

#3 Speculative crusade. This creative sequence calls on the (human) history of an endless quest for unsatisfied domination. A martial and dark direction built on conflict. The silhouettes are very “armored” – technical, combat-inspired – or made with hybrid materials, visceral textures in an organic and warlike palette: dark reds and browns, textured blacks, military khaki, burnt chrome... 

#4 Data inquisition. This final direction explores a society of suspects under surveillance. In this world of constant inquisition, any difference, any eccentricity or nuance is instantly condemned. Personal identities are absorbed and intimacy disappears in favor of the collective. Clothing becomes an interface, a second skin, an extension of the digital self. The garments can be adjusted with interchangeable modules. All of this in an icy blue, algorithmic aesthetic. 
 
Words to discover in February 
These four themes are enriched with moodboards and color palettes built around three “star colors” followed by six shades. Each theme, imagined as a design capsule or creative direction, will be showcased at the fair in the area dedicated to trend forums in Hall 2. This immersive setup will allow visitors to discover the looks created by the artistic directors using materials and finished products selected for each world based on strong sensory intentions. Louis Gerin will also present the full details of this work during a dedicated conference to give creators solid creative perspectives for imagining the Spring-Summer 2027 fashion season. 

December 9, Lenzing AG announced that Rohit Aggarwal, Managing Board Member and Chief Executive Officer of Lenzing AG, has informed the Supervisory Board of his decision to resign from his position due to personal reasons, effective 31 January 2026. To support a smooth transition, Mr. Aggarwal will remain with Lenzing AG as an advisor to the company until end of September 2026. 

Following Mr. Aggarwal’s departure, Lenzing AG will be led by a three-member Managing Board. As part of the company’s continued organizational development and in support of its refined premiumization strategy, Lenzing AG will establish an Executive Committee (ExCo) consisting of six members. The ExCo will include the three members of the Managing Board and will be complemented by Lenzing's senior commercial managers Patricia Sargeant (Nonwovens Fibers), Yann Lepage (Textile Fibers) and Anton Putz (Pulp). The introduction of the ExCo is designed to support Lenzing’s strategic focus on commercial opportunities in high-performance fiber segments with the objective of reinforcing the company’s position as the leading integrated premium supplier of regenerated cellulosic fibers. 

The process to appoint a new Chief Executive Officer has been initiated by the Supervisory Board and an appointment will be announced at the appropriate time. 

Patrick Lackenbucher, Chairman of the Supervisory Board, comments: “On behalf of the Supervisory Board, I would like to thank Rohit Aggarwal for his commitment and for the progress achieved under his leadership, including the successful execution of the performance program, a sharpened strategic focus, and improved profitability. Structural profitability remains a key objective, and the Managing Board will continue its relentless focus on improving Lenzing's competitive position, its financial performance and long-term value creation in order to strengthen Lenzing’s position as a global market leader in sustainable cellulosic fibers.” 

Based on the business performance to date and the current market outlook, the Managing Board confirms the EBITDA guidance 2025 and expects year-on-year growth in EBITDA in 2025.

ITA Master's student Janne Warnecke investigated tension differences over the fabric width in the weaving process and thereby contributed to quality assurance; ITA Bachelor's student Jasmin Roos found a basis for the development of recyclable yarns and textiles. For these developments, they were awarded the Walter Reiners Foundation's Promotion and Sustainability Prizes on 27 November. Peter D. Dornier, Chairman of the Walter Reiners Foundation, presented the awards at the Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference (ADD-ITC) in Aachen, Germany.

Thermoplastic elastomers as a recyclable alternative to elastane
The increasing importance of a circular economy for conserving resources and minimising negative environmental impacts requires innovative recycling concepts for textiles. The increasing use of elastane poses a particular challenge in textile recycling. Even small amounts of elastane cause difficulties in established recycling technologies such as thermomechanical recycling, for example by clogging filter media or decomposing into potentially toxic degradation products.

Jasmin Roos won the Sustainability Award for her bachelor's thesis on the topic: ‘Potential of thermoplastic elastomers for thermomechanical textile recycling as an alternative to elastane: Experimental evaluation of PET/TPC blends’ with prize money of €3,000.

In her thesis, Jasmin Roos, supervised by ITA scientist Ricarda Wissel, took an in-depth look at the development of sustainable solutions for recycling elastic textiles. The innovative approach aims to replace conventional, non-recyclable elastane with melt-spun yarns made from thermoplastic copolyester elastomers (TPC). This can not only improve recyclability, but also contribute to reducing environmental impact, as harmful solvents can be dispensed with in yarn production.

The main objective of her work was to evaluate the suitability of blends of TPC and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) for joint thermomechanical recycling. Blend and melt spinning tests were carried out on a laboratory and pilot scale at the ITA facilities. Jasmin Roos succeeded in producing blends of different proportions of PET and TPC, based on typical elastane proportions in textiles, and successfully processing them into yarns on a melt spinning line – a crucial aspect for closed-loop recycling. The results of her bachelor's thesis thus form a promising basis for the development of recyclable elastic yarns and textiles.

The planned acquisition of the “Barmag” Division of OC Oerlikon will create the leading system provider worldwide for natural and man-made fibers. Rieter is confident it will receive all regulatory approvals to complete the acquisition in the fourth quarter of 2025. The Rieter Group is therefore adjusting its Group structure as of January 1, 2026, to take this acquisition into account and to be able to provide an even more agile response to market challenges. 

The Machines & Systems and After Sales Divisions will be merged. Alexander Özbahadir will take over the new “Short-Staple Fiber” Division, which will be responsible for the short-staple fiber business, effective January 1, 2026. This will create synergies in sales and service activities and increase customer centricity through a geographical focus. 

Roger Albrecht will now be responsible for the “Components and Technology” Division. His mandate will be to develop pioneering technology solutions, drive innovation and achieve growth in the key components business. With this organizational change, Rieter will further expand its technology leadership and intensify its development activities between Rieter and the component companies Accotex, Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, Suessen, SSM and Temco. 

Serge Entleitner has decided to step down from the Group Executive Committee, effective December 31, 2025, and will support the company on various projects until his retirement in 2027. 

Upon successful closing of the Barmag acquisition, the “Man-Made Fiber” Division will be integrated into the Rieter Group. Georg Stausberg will continue to lead the division and report to Thomas Oetterli, CEO of Rieter. He will also take a seat on the Group Executive Committee. 

As of January 1, 2026, the Rieter Group Executive Board will comprise the following members: 

• Thomas Oetterli, Chief Executive Officer 
• Oliver Streuli, Chief Financial Officer 
• Emmanuelle Gmür, Chief Human Resources Officer 
• Alexander Özbahadir, Head of the “Short-Staple Fiber” Division 
• Georg Stausberg (after closing), Head of the “Man-Made Fiber” Division 
• Roger Albrecht, Head of the “Components and Technology” Division 

Rieter is responding to the persistently weak market situation with further cost-cutting measures by adjusting production capacities, simplifying supply chains, and streamlining overhead functions. The estimated one-off costs of around CHF 30 to 35 million will result in annual savings of just under CHF 30 million.

A new prototype of a knitting machine creates solid, knitted shapes, adding stitches in any direction – forward, backward and diagonal – so users can construct a wide variety of shapes and add stiffness to different parts of the object.

Unlike traditional knitting, which yields a 2D sheet of stitches, this proof-of-concept machine – developed by researchers at Cornell and Carnegie Mellon University – functions more like a 3D printer, building up solid shapes with horizontal layers of stitches.

“We establish that not only can it be done, but because of the way we attach the stitch, it will give us access to a lot of flexibility about how we control the material,” said François Guimbretière, professor of information science in the Cornell Ann S. Bowers College of Computing and information science and the multicollege Department of Design Tech. “The expressiveness is very similar to a 3D printer.” 

Guimbretière and co-author, Victor Guimbretière ’29, who is in Cornell Engineering, presented the work, “Using an Array of Needles to Create Solid Knitted Shapes,” at the ACM Symposium on User Interface Software and Technology in Busan, Korea on Sept. 30.

Guimbretière first became interested in solid knitting while tinkering with a knitting machine in the lab of co-author Scott Hudson, professor of human-computer interaction in the School of Computer Science at Carnegie Mellon University, in 2016. A few years later, Guimbretière built the prototype from scratch in his basement during the COVID-19 pandemic, using primarily 3D-printed components.

The machine has a bed of knitting needles arranged in a 6x6 block, with each composed of a 3D-printed symmetrical double hook attached to a brass support tube. The front and back parts of the double hook move independently, which allows the machine to knit or purl, depending on which half picks up the first loop. To control the machine, the researchers developed a library of code for each type of stitch, which can generate a program for each product.

Because the knitting head that dispenses the yarn can move directly over the array of needles to any location, the design offers excellent flexibility to create complex knitted structures. Previous solid knitting machines lacked this flexibility, which greatly limits the shapes they can produce, researchers said.

So far, the team has successfully knitted objects shaped like a C and a pyramid, which demonstrates the machine’s ability to create complex shapes and overhangs.

Currently, the prototype is still slow, prone to dropping loops and sometimes catches the yarn on the wrong needles, but Guimbretière has plans to make the machine more robust. Additionally, it should be easy to scale up the design, he said, simply by adding a larger bed of needles. 

With further improvements, this type of approach may be useful for medical applications, such as knitting structures that support the growth of artificial ligaments or veins, Guimbretière said. Solid knitting allows the user to create different levels of thickness and stiffness in the final product, so it may be useful for accurately mimicking biological structures.

Amritansh Kwatra ’19, now a Ph.D. student in the field of information science at Cornell Tech, also contributed to the study.
Partial funding for this work came from the National Science Foundation.

Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, Inc., a leader in spider silk technology*, announced the promotion of Dr. Xiaoli Zhang to the position of Chief Scientist. This promotion follows a series of groundbreaking scientific achievements under Dr. Zhang's leadership that are laying the foundation for the next generation of spider silk-based super materials.
 
Dr. Zhang joined Kraig Labs in October 2024 and was challenged with accelerating the Company's research program and unlocking new scientific frontiers. Tasked with ambitious and transformative objectives, she not only met but exceeded every milestone in record time, positioning Kraig Labs at the forefront of breakthrough discoveries in advanced fibers and bioengineered materials.
 
"These achievements are nothing short of revolutionary," said Kim Thompson, founder and CEO of Kraig Labs. "When Dr. Zhang came on board, we asked her to take on challenges that many believed were impossible. In less than a year, she has led our team to breakthroughs that open the door to entirely new categories of super materials. Her promotion to Chief Scientist reflects both the incredible work she has already done and the even more extraordinary advancements we expect under her continued leadership."
 
The innovations driven by Dr. Zhang's research are now forming the blueprint for a new era of material science, pushing the boundaries of what spider silk can achieve. These advancements promise to redefine performance materials and open new opportunities in higher-margin end markets.
 
"I am deeply honored by this recognition," said Dr. Zhang. "The past year has shown us what's possible when science, vision, and determination come together. What we've achieved is just the starting point, we are now poised to pioneer materials that will set entirely new standards for strength, flexibility, and performance. The future for spider silk is brighter than ever."

The LYCRA Company, a global leader in developing fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries, announced two strategic leadership moves to accelerate innovation and growth.

Robert Johnston has been promoted to chief operating officer from his previous role as executive vice president, operations, and Doug Kelliher has been appointed executive vice president, product. Kelliher will join the company’s global leadership team, while Johnston continues in his leadership capacity. Both executives report directly to CEO Gary Smith.
 
Robert Johnston, Chief Operating Officer
Johnston, a 35-year veteran of The LYCRA Company and its predecessor organizations, will expand his leadership to include product development, in addition to his current oversight of global manufacturing operations and IT. In his new role, Johnston will manage R&D talent, lab resources, and pilot production to drive innovation across the product portfolio, supporting strategic growth priorities identified by Kelliher’s team.

Doug Kelliher, EVP, Product
Kelliher will lead the product management team in developing and executing strategy across fibers, fabrics, and garments. His team works to deliver differentiated solutions that add value and meet the needs of today’s consumer. With more than 30 years of product leadership experience at Timberland, Velcro Companies, Polartec and Milliken & Company, Kelliher brings deep expertise to his role.

"As the apparel industry continues to evolve, our focus remains on delivering high-performance solutions that meet consumer needs and help brands and retailers differentiate and thrive," said Gary Smith, CEO of The LYCRA Company. "Doug and Robert bring exceptional leadership, vision, and industry expertise to their roles, strengthening our ability to co-create with customers, accelerate innovation, and bring transformative technologies to market faster and more efficiently.”
 
About The LYCRA Company
The LYCRA Company innovates and produces fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries and owns the consumer brands:  LYCRA®, LYCRA HyFit®, LYCRA® T400®, COOLMAX®, THERMOLITE®, ELASPAN®, SUPPLEX® and TACTEL®. Headquartered in Wilmington, Delaware, U.S., The LYCRA Company is recognized worldwide for its sustainable products, technical expertise, and marketing support. The LYCRA Company focuses on adding value to its customers’ products by developing unique innovations designed to meet the consumer’s need for comfort and lasting performance. 

On various biological surfaces, oil is adsorbed from water surfaces and transported along the leaf. In her dissertation, ITA Postdoc Dr Leonie Beek transferred this effect to a technical textile using her Bionic Oil Absorber (BOA), which can remove up to 4 litres of diesel per hour from water at technological readiness level 4. For this development, Dr Beek was awarded the Paul Schlack Prize 2025 for her dissertation ‘Bionic textiles for oil-water separation modelled on superhydrophobic biological surfaces’ on 10 September 2025. The award ceremony took place during the opening event of the Dornbirn GFC Global Fiber Congress in Austria.

Oil-water separation without additional energy or toxic substances 
Dr Leonie Beek's dissertation focused on the sustainable separation of oil and water. On various biological surfaces, oil is adsorbed from water surfaces and transported along the leaf. This effect differs from technical solutions in that oil-water separation is achieved without external energy and without toxic substances.

Possible use in harbour basins or in the event of flooding/pollution of inland waters 
Dr Beek integrated the bionic textile into a floating device (Bionic Oil Adsorber – BOA). The BOA demonstrator, which has a technology readiness level of 4, can remove up to 4 litres of diesel per hour. It is intended for use in port areas. Another promising application is in the event of flooding and pollution of inland waters and urban sewage treatment plants.

Ecologically and economically sustainable technology 
The technology is ecologically sustainable, as both the textile and the separated oil can be reused. It is also economically sustainable, as the textile is up to 13 times cheaper than sorption materials with a service life of 21 days.

Overall, Dr Leonie Beek succeeded in her dissertation in transferring the biological principle to a bionic textile and presenting a product for use in the completely new application of oil-water separation. This is the first time that superhydrophobic surfaces have been used outside of friction reduction.

Since 1971, the Paul Schlack Prize has been awarded at the Dornbirn GFC Global Fiber Congress (formerly Dornbirn Man-made Fibers Congress) in Dornbirn (Austria) to promote chemical fibre research at universities and research institutes. Previous ITA winners of the Paul Schlack Prize include Dr Stefan Peterek, Dr Andreas De Palmenaer, Prof. Dr Gunnar Seide, Dr Wilhelm Steinmann, Dr Stephan Walter, Dr Gisa Wortberg, Dr Benjamin Weise, and Dr Markus Beckers.

On the occasion of New York Climate Week, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has launched the Fashion CEO Agenda 2025, a strategic resource for leaders of fashion brands and retailers, designed to guide immediate action to future-proof businesses while advancing towards a net-positive fashion industry by 2050.

Published at a pivotal mid-decade reflection point - with less than five years remaining to meet the UN Sustainable Development Goals and scientists warning of only three years left to alter the trajectory of global warming - the report comes as the industry faces turbulence, from economic volatility and deregulation to escalating climate and social crises.

The updated agenda urges executives to take action according to its long-standing five-priority sustainability framework - Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Resource Stewardship, Smart Material Choices, and Circular Systems. For the first time, the 2025 edition introduces Priority Accelerators: Innovation, Capital, Courage, Incentives, and Regulation. These build on the themes discussed at Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition this year, positioned as critical levers that cut across all five priorities, enabling systemic change at speed and scale.

The Fashion CEO Agenda 2025 is structured in two clear parts: Part one presents overarching ambitions for the fashion sector that demand collective action across stakeholders, while part two outlines the immediate, short-term, practical steps brands and retailers can take today to advance those ambitions.

The 2025 edition builds upon the ambitions first presented in the 2023 Fashion CEO Agenda which were developed through years of stakeholder engagement and validated by GFA and the UN Environment Programme’s global Fashion Industry Target Consultation. Two years on, these ambitions remain central to industry-wide progress. For 2025, they’ve been re-evaluated in consultation with leading multi-stakeholder initiatives and experts to ensure continued ambition, impact, and relevance. The scope now expands to further urgent priorities such as fair and ethical treatment of migrant workers and empowering workers through inclusive automation and reskilling, with a firm focus on the need for transformation that benefits both the planet and its communities.

To support implementation, GFA has also released new complementary materials including a practical toolkit guiding companies to credible existing industry tools, guidelines, and programmes, as well as a presentation deck that fashion leaders can adapt internally to educate teams. These resources are designed to help leaders embed the Fashion CEO Agenda into company strategies and communicate it effectively throughout their organisations.

Federica Marchionni, CEO of Global Fashion Agenda, said: “Climate change is the defining certainty in an uncertain global world, impacting all lives and communities. The investments needed to future-proof businesses will keep increasing and the cost of inaction will inevitably become greater than the investments needed to address it. This year’s Fashion CEO Agenda provides leaders with a clear path to embed sustainability at the heart of corporate strategy, supported by enabling conditions that make bold action both possible and necessary.”