From the Sector

From 18 to 20 January 2025 in Hofheim-Wallau near Frankfurt, this international trade fair will be presenting sustainable fashion collections, footwear and accessories for all generations and all occasions.

Labels invest in their presence at the fair
For the first time, organiser MUVEO GmbH has positioned DESIGN DISCOVERIES in the foyer of the Messecenter Rhein-Main, instead of on the first floor as previously. The new location for the first-time exhibitors featured in DESIGN DISCOVERIES, immediately inside the main entrance, ensures that the labels covered by this support programme are immediately visible. The four brands, selected by a jury, include Maison Labiche from France, embroiderers of womens-, mens- and kidswear. Ikiala brings accessories made of Madagascan raffia. Kiwistories supplies fashion items with prints and patterns, while Delin uses linen for its shirts, T-shirts, clothing etc.

The area previously occupied by DESIGN DISCOVERIES has now been used to provide larger spaces for exhibitors. “We have noted that for some years now the stands have been growing ever larger,” comments Jens Frey, Managing Director of MUVEO GmbH. “The increasing willingness to make this type of investment is something we see as a positive signal from the sector, especially in the face of continuing commercial challenges. The labels are saying something with their generously designed areas – it’s well worth a visit!”

Insider expertise for conventional retail too
Events of various kinds will take place in the Talk Area on the first floor: one highlight of the programme is the Retail Association’s expert panel on the Monday, aimed primarily at buyers. Under the title ‘Best practices in retail: ’Tackling challenges with active customer engagement and other strategies’, a panel comprising Dr. Eva Stüber of the Institute for Retail Studies Cologne (IFH), Jost Wiebelhaus of Frankfurter Laufshop, Olivia Dahlmen of Quartier Frau, Marion Käfer of Lumiis and Silvio Zeizinger of the Hessen Retail Association (Handelsverband Hessen e.V.) will be speaking on trends and solutions for retail. Cheryll Mühlen, Editor-in-chief at specialist magazines Textilmitteilungen, J'N'C and Green Knowledge, is the moderator.

„Community-building will be even more important in the future“
The motto of the 55th INNATEX, ‘TOGETHER’, is a call to those involved in the Green Fashion sector to stick together, in order to find synergies and maintain confidence. “Smaller businesses in particular can benefit in very concrete ways from collaboration,” says Hitzel. “The opportunities range from sharing resources and knowledge to extending reach and saving costs. I also believe that community-building will become even more important in the coming years.”

The return of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris to the Paris-Le-Bourget exhibition centre from 10 to 12 February will see a number of innovations both in terms of the products on offer and the visitor itineraries.

More than 1,200 weavers and garment makers are expected in Halls 2, 3 and 4 of the exhibition centre for this first edition in 2025. This return to a redesigned space marks a new chapter in the visitor experience. This session will also offer a true reflection of the diversity of global sourcing, with creative ranges at competitive prices for the fashion industries.

New sourcing destinations for Texworld
Alongside the Top 5 weaving nations loyal to Texworld - China, Türkiye with its 70 manufacturers grouped together under the pavilion of the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce, India, Korea and Taiwan - alternative sourcing zones such as Malaysia, Singapore, the United Kingdom, Vietnam, the Netherlands and Egypt are enriching the show's offering. Dutch exhibitors Quality Textile, Nooteboom and Verhees Textiles are also back in the cotton sector, with cutting-edge and particularly creative catalogues. In the knitwear sector, we can also note the participation of the Koreans O.N.K, specialists in circular knitting, W-Tex, whose polyester blends produce remarkable fancy fabrics, or specialists in silky aspects such as JK Tex or TL Corporation. The Denim sector is growing this year, with around thirty exhibitors, including some of the world's leading names such as Winwin Textile from China and Bangladeshi supplier NZ Denim.

Innovations, initiatives and sustainability
The new “Initiatives” zone at the entrance of Hall 4 will be showcasing inspiring and sustainable solutions, such as that of Vietnamese company Bao Lan Textile with its range of silk and fabrics made from pineapple leaf fibre. These products, developed with Ecofa Vietnam, have natural antibacterial properties and offer natural UV protection up to 50+ UPF. This area will also host the China Textile Information Centre's trends forum, as well as the Econogy Hub, which brings together Messe Frankfurt's expertise on sustainability-related initiatives in the textile sector. Also to be discovered in the activewear sector is the range from Japan's Toyoshima, known for its streetwear collections, its ‘non-denim’ fabrics that consume very little water, and its astonishing wagami fabrics, produced from blends of very fine yarns made to order from cotton, linen and wool.

Apparel Sourcing: focus on Africa and near sourcing
Apparel Sourcing also has a great session in store. With more than 500 exhibitors expected - up on February 2024 - the show's rich offering of finished products, clothing and fashion accessories will be on full display over the three days. Especially when it comes to local sourcing. Alongside the major manufacturing nations - led by China and India, and Pakistan and Bangladesh, both of which have grouped their exhibitors under their national pavilions - visitors will have access to products from the Africa zone, with a hub of companies from Ethiopia, Rwanda (Pink Mango) and the Arise Integrated Industrial Platform, which brings together the expertise of garment manufacturers based in Togo, Benin and Gabon. Ukraine, back with 5 companies supported by its national textile association, will be adding to the Euromed offering from Foursource, Messe Frankfurt's near sourcing partner, which will be presenting catalogues from companies in Eastern Europe, Portugal and Morocco.

An optimised sourcing experience
The return to Paris-Le Bourget Exhibition Centre has been accompanied by an overhaul of the organisation of visitor areas. The layout of sectors and services has been reviewed to create new synergies between raw materials and finished products. Women's wear areas (All about her, Embrodery & Lace, Silky aspect...) have been set up in Hall 4 - dedicated to knitwear, silk and lace - and a large area will be devoted to the outdoor - sportswear - casualwear offer in Hall 3. Hall 2 will be a focal point for relaxation, catering and networking, as well as a place for inspiration and exchange, with trend forums, product presentations, services and the Agora for conferences and round tables.

Econogy, Small Quantity & Hand Made: themed itineraries
Three exhibitor itineraries have been designed by the Messe Frankfurt France team to meet visitors' needs. The Econogy Finder trail, for example, enables visitors to find more than 80 suppliers of sustainable textiles, listed in the show app and indicated by the Econogy logos visible on the corresponding booths. The Small Quantity itinerary then highlights the more than 200 suppliers able to offer small quantity production (less than 300 pieces for garments or less than 100 metres for fabrics). A plus for buyers looking for limited editions or small orders for capsule collections. Finally, the Hand Made itinerary identifies the more than 130 exhibitors whose catalogues feature authentic, handmade products or unique skills. These manufacturers can also be found directly on the fair's online directory.

Pili, a French pioneer in biobased dyes and pigments, partners with Orta, the Turkish denim mill and Citizens of Humanity, a California-based high-end denim brand known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

They are beginning a transformative shift in the denim industry with the commercial launch of the first products dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first products will debut in January in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.

A New Ecological Standard for the Denim Industry
In 2024, Pili achieved a major milestone by producing its first tons of biobased indigo, enabling the creation of sustainable denim articles, a turning point in the company's efforts to decarbonize the textile industry especially denim.

Pili has developed unique processes combining fermentation and organic chemistry to offer a high-performance, eco-friendly alternative to petrochemical dyes. Their ecological alternative significantly reduces the use of toxic chemicals and fossil resources, while aiming to cut CO2 emissions up to 50%. It meets the same performance as petrochemical indigo while seamlessly integrating into existing dyeing processes without requiring additional investment in commercial dyeing equipment.

Pili’s colors development is based on standardized Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs), ensuring a rigorous process to measure and minimize their environmental impact.

A Partnership Driving Sustainable Transformation in the Industry
Fiber and dye are the two main components of denim products and also the ones with the greatest impact on their production. The partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Pili, and Orta establishes one of the highest ecological standards in the market with the use of regenerative cotton and biobased indigo.

Pili biobased indigo will make its debut in Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE’s Spring 2025 collections. This long-term partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Orta, and Pili will continue to expand in future collections. The launch will be exclusive on NET-A-PORTER on January 6, 2025, before being extended to agolde.com, citizensofhumanity.com, and other global retailers.

A Key Step Towards the Decarbonization of the Color Industry
Building on this first success, Pili is accelerating the development of coloring solutions for various industrial applications, particularly in the inks, paints, and polymers sectors. The aim is to decarbonize everyday products using high-performance biobased pigments, with the first applicative tests set to begin this year. Pili continues its mission to decarbonize the color industry, paving the way for a sustainable revolution.

Polartec®, a Milliken™ & Company brand and creator of innovative textile solutions for future thinking, introduces Product, the third and final chapter in Polartec’s multifaceted Beyond Begins Today mini-series.

Beyond Begins Today looks at how Polartec fabrics are made to last, and to be used and enjoyed from one generation to the next and beyond. It explores the innovative monomaterials, repurposed plastic and the plant-based nylon membranes that Polartec uses to set new standards for high performance fabrics; the ambitious climate-related objectives across the entire value chain that exceed existing mandates. Such a holistic strategy allows Polartec to stay at the forefront of its industry by producing top-notch textiles that champion environmental stewardship and pave the way for a more sustainable tomorrow.

Within the rich tapestry of Polartec’s legacy, threads of innovation weave together the past, present, and future. From its humble origins as pioneers of synthetic fleece to bold strides into new realms, Polartec represents the promise of harmony between creation and care; touching lives while honoring the earth.

Product, the final installment of Beyond Begins Today, features Paul Cosgrove (Chief Product Officer, Mammut), Sachiye Koide, (Mountaineer & Product Engineer), and Eric Yung (Managing Director of Polartec). Through a discussion that begins with a reverent nod to the iconic designs of brands like Mammut and the pioneers who wore them, Chapter 3 leads into the soul of the great outdoors. From a celebration of the gear that binds lives to landscapes, and passions to purpose, it looks at a legacy that connects Polartec’s promise to enhance lives to the enduring strength of its textile solutions.

The Autumn/Winter '25 edition of Scoop returns to Olympia West, Kensington, from 9–11 February 2025, bringing London’s largest and most anticipated curated showroom event back into the spotlight. Under the expert curation of Founder and Managing Director Karen Radley, this season promises a fresh roster of talent, featuring exciting new faces among the line-up of international designers and lifestyle brands, all carefully selected to captivate buyers and visitors in an intimate and contemporary setting.

Founded in Paris in 2017, Artlove is set to present a vibrant collection that cultivates the spontaneity of a feminine and easy-to-wear aesthetic. Committed to meticulous craftsmanship, Artlove’s clothes are inspired by the vivacious spirit of creativity, for a wardrobe imagined in Paris and to be enjoyed joyfully everywhere. Their dresses, knitwear and separates are designed in a palette of options to reflect individual personality. Each outfit is a work of art in itself, ready to be styled according to the wearer’s mood.

Also making its debut at Scoop is iconic Spanish streetwear brand Loreak Mendian. Founded in Donostia over 25 years ago, Loreak Mendian means “flowers in the mountains”, and is faithful to its roots today by advocating for the power of design to create timeless and durable pieces. Driven by culture, their collections are inspired by artistic expressions; music, art, and graphic design, balance practicality with style, offering versatile urban apparel for both men and women that embodies the spirit of sustainability.

ALIX the Label, renowned for its luxurious take on wardrobe essentials, will also be showing for the first time. Designed ‘for those with a hint of rock and roll in their DNA’, this season’s highlights include leopard-print dresses paired with crisp sneakers for a laid-back look, and bold oversized blazers that can be styled with sky-high heels for a night out.

Orfeo Paris will unveil a collection that effortlessly blends structured tailoring with dreamy feminine charm. Expect tailored blazers, chic dresses, and cosy knitwear designed with precision and a keen eye for detail. Each piece captures the essence of Parisian sophistication while remaining approachable and practical for everyday wear.

For buyers seeking new jewellery designers, Love Letter’s latest collection, The Divine Feminine, is an ode to feminine power and mystique. The line features striking jewellery pieces that harmonise celestial and earthly elements, with gemstones like rainbow moonstones, copper turquoise, malachite, amethyst, and carnelian taking centre stage. Also debuting, The Little Words Project is known for its handcrafted beaded bracelets featuring inspirational phrases. These customisable accessories promote kindness and positivity, encouraging wearers to “pay it forward” by gifting them to friends or loved ones in need of encouragement.

Travaux en Cours is set to impress with its chic and functional range of bags and hats.  Designed in France and woven in Italy, their unisex hats, crafted from durable woven paper that
mimics straw, are available in a variety of colours, making them an ideal addition to any wardrobe.

Other new designers poised to catch buyers’ attention include My Beachy Side, Artemis Muse, Fancy Palas, Mirto, and Sunny Studio. Scoop favourites, such as Cocoa Cashmere, Dr. Bloom, Dream Catchers, Sophie + Lucie, Sofie Schnoor, Quinton Chadwick, Mou, Eribe, Dedicated, and Dr. Denim, will showcase their latest collections. Meanwhile, returning brands Dixie, Pom Amsterdam, Vilagallo, Nooki, Humility, and FRNCH promise to delight with their distinctive offerings.