From the Sector

With global consumers becoming more conscious about personal hygiene and environmental protection, exhibitors at Cinte Techtexil China will spotlight materials and technologies for products that respond to these trends. The fair will probe into the associated growth opportunities as the country is one of the leading markets for nonwovens and technical textiles. The event will be held from 6 – 8 September at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre.

The technical textiles and nonwovens industries, the latter notably, are significantly expanding amid the pandemic. A recent forecast[1] predicts that the global polypropylene nonwoven fabric market will continue to rise at a CAGR of 6.7%, reaching USD 39.23 billion by 2028. The anticipated growth is bolstered by demands in end-use industries such as sanitation, medical, automotive and more. In 2020, Asia Pacific was named the largest regional market in the world and is expected to grow significantly over the forecasted period.

The prediction reaffirms the growth prospects of nonwovens. In this regard, industry players expressed much optimism about associated future opportunities during Cinte Techtextil China last year. “The field of nonwovens is poised for a positive growth as the awareness of personal hygiene and pandemic prevention sustains in the domestic market,” commented Mr James Gao, Head of Marketing and Textile Technologies, Uster Technologies (China) Co Ltd. He added: “We decided to join the fair and showcase our new launches as we remain confident in the future development of the industry, especially since China is dominating the global scene.”

Going green is the way forward
Turning to yarns and fibres, the sector is shifting to greener and smarter production that echoes the trend towards sustainability that is gaining considerable traction across the globe. Meanwhile in China, this movement was observed by many exhibitors at the 2021 edition, including Mr Roberto Galante, Plant Manager of FMMG Technical Textiles (Suzhou) Co Ltd, the Chinese subsidiary of the Fil Man Made Group. He mentioned: “The market is paying more attention to environmental protection, and we receive enquiries about special yarns for this every day. We focus on technical yarns for filtration as well as anti-bacterial properties, which are very important for the environment. The potential here in China is incredible and this is a big opportunity for everybody.”

Cinte Techtextil China’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span across a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw material providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

• with a ready-to-use swatch book dedicated to its DEEP DIVE sustainable dyeing system for dark, popular color basics

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, launches its first ever ready-to-use swatch book, dedicated to creating sustainable black and dark color basics for faster time to market, to support its popular DEEP DIVE 2.0 system.

In 2018, Archroma launched its system solutions, a holistic approach aimed at addressing the growing expectations of the public in terms of keeping consumers, and the environment, safe.
Under the umbrella of "The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it's our nature", the Archroma systems are designed to create innovation and performance, whilst reducing the impacts on water, energy and other natural resources. The savings generated by these 70+ system solutions are demonstrated by Archroma's proprietary ONE WAY Impact Calculator, a ground-breaking tool launched in 2012 and continuously upgraded to simulate and optimize the footprint of textile application processes.

One of these systems, DEEP DIVE 2.0, has attracted a lot of interest not just from textile manufacturers but also from major brands and retailers worldwide. This popular system combines Drimaren® Ultimate HD, high-performance reactive dyes, with Blue Magic, an all-in-one pretreatment, Optifix® RUB New liq and Siligen® SIH-S New liq, a finishing treatment improved rub fastness and elegant hand feel, and an effective hydrolyzed dye remover, Cyclanon® XC-W New liq. The result is a shorter dyeing process combining right-first-time productivity, an improved fabric quality for longer lasting end-articles, as well as dramatically reduced water and energy utilization for brands committed to drive more sustainable production. Savings can reach up to 31% water and 34% energy.

The system is ideally suited for medium and dark cottons that have high performing fastness to light, multiple home laundering, saliva – in other words: apparel used for fashion, sports and baby’s wear.
At the same time, interested manufacturers and brands were facing the constant challenge of the fashion industry: time to market.

Often design is separated from execution in the factory and as such often designers initially select color that cannot be met in reality on different fibers or production routes in terms of color flare, metamerism, brightness, depth and now sustainable metrics – leading to lengthy delays and compromises in function, performance and/or color.
Archroma decided to create a dedicated tool aimed at addressing these issues. The company developed a new, unique book with color swatches made with the system that is ready to implement immediately into production thanks to engineered color standards and specifications.

This new tool offers a path to bridge the gap between “art and science” by providing at inspiration phase fully executable deep colors for cotton with controlled color metamerism and at the same time demonstrate water, energy and chemical savings, enhanced color fastness using safe chemistry for the end consumer. As a wardrobe staple, medium to dark shades are very popular with consumers. As a result, most brands and retailers often have and sell up to 60% of medium to dark shades in their seasonal palettes. It’s also the dark shades that use the most water and energy in production, so prioritizing these colors would have the largest ecological positive impact. The 48 colors swatched in the DEEP DIVE 2.0 book have been selected based on market popularity to allow brands and manufacturers to match that very stable market demand. Customers may use these colors as presented, or as inspiration whereby Archroma can create and match new custom colors using the DEEP DIVE 2.0 system.

Christophe Maestripieri, Global Head of the Archroma Brand Studio, the company’s department dedicated to support brands’ projects and innovations, explains: “We wanted to make sure our partners have all the tools they need to convert to more sustainable colors. We had the ideal dyeing system to do that, DEEP DIVE 2.0, with its high performance and reduced impacts on resources. Now, with the new DEEP DIVE 2.0 swatch book, we also offer to brands and manufacturers a way to select sustainable color options that meet the market demand for high quality medium to dark shades which can be implemented into production right away.”

EURATEX has launched its EU-Ukraine Textile Initiative (EUTI), which aims at facilitating cooperation between European and Ukrainian textile and apparel companies. EUTI offers a single contact point for Ukrainian companies who seek support and cooperation with EU counterparts, and vice versa. That connection will be helpful to match supply and demand (e.g. there are many requests for supplies of fabrics), engage in public procurement, offer company-to-company support.

The service will be coordinated by EURATEX in close cooperation with UKRLEGPROM, Ukrainian Association of enterprises of textile & leather industry. Olena Garkusha, an experienced manager coming from the Ukrainian textile industry and now based in Brussels, will act as contact point.

EU exports to Ukraine reached €1.3 bln in 2021 (13th market), whereas imports from Ukraine reached €500 mln (21st place). There is potential to expand that relationship, both in the short term - to respond to urgent needs, e.g. in military and medical fabrics - but also in the longer run; as partner in the PEM Convention, Ukraine can play an important role in Europe’s textile and apparel supply chain. The proposed suspension of tariffs on imported products from Ukraine by the EU will offer further opportunities.

EURATEX Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented: “Supporting the textile industry is our way to help the people of Ukraine. We encourage our European members to connect via EUTI and develop sustainable partnerships.”

Tetyana Izovit, President-Chief of the Board of UKRLEGPROM welcomed the initiative: “Today, we have many textile and  apparel  companies in Ukraine with expertise and skilled workers; they are able and willing to work with EU, but lack the contacts, customers and supplies. EUTI will help them.”

• The first year of TECHNYL® in China under the DOMO brand name; DOMO will be pushing forward its expansion plan of high-performance polyamides in China
• Continued innovation in engineered nylon materials for a sustainable future

DOMO Chemicals announced a long-term investment plan in China to continue expanding its production capacity of TECHNYL® high-performance polyamides. This plan aims to meet growing demand in the automotive, electrical & electronics, and industrial consumer goods industries, and help build a sustainable future. DOMO Chemicals acquired Solvay's Performance Polyamides business in 2020 and has sold the TECHNYL® products globally since February 1, 2022, including in China, one of the company's key strategic markets.

The global demand for polyamide materials is currently booming at a CAGR of up to 3 percent. The adoption of new energy vehicles (including pure electric, hybrid and fuel cell vehicles) is expected to reach 45 percent globally by 2030, and automakers are increasingly using sustainable materials to make components, which are key growth drivers of the polyamide market. In addition, the demand for miniaturized circuit breakers, contactors, plug switches, and other components in the electrical and electronics and industrial consumer goods industries further opens up the application potential for polyamide materials.

DOMO Chemicals will continue to expand the capacity of its production site in Jiaxing, Zhejiang Province, which has been planned to be gradually introduced in three stages:

• Since March 2022, an additional 6,000 tons of capacity has been made available, with the plant achieving the total capacity of 14,000 tons of PA6 from April onwards.
• A 35,000-ton new plant in Haiyan is planned to be completed in the third quarter of 2023, in which DOMO Chemicals has invested more than 14 million euros (97 million yuan).
• Going forward, DOMO Chemicals will further expand the plant, gradually increasing its capacity to 50,000 tons.

In addition to the expansion, the plant will also use renewable energy wherever possible, adopt advanced water and air treatment technologies to reduce water consumption and CO2 emissions, and fully comply with Health, Safety and Environmental Management System (HSE) regulations. DOMO Chemicals will improve HSE compliance continuously and work closely with the local government, while partnering with key local and global customers to accelerate innovation and development across a wide range of industries.

TECHNYL® has been committed to helping customers improve their low-carbon competitiveness since its very first year in China. It allows OEMs and component makers in the automotive, electrical & electronics, and industrial consumer goods segments to create lightweight, durable, aesthetically pleasing, smart and environmentally-friendly products.

Manufy, a marketplace for sustainable fashion production, has launched a new version of their platform. The platform connects conscious brands with sustainable manufacturers in hopes to create a cleaner future for the clothing industry. Now decked out with many more functionalities, Manufy aims to facilitate sustainable business between both parties from start to finish.  

Over the course of the last year the Manufy team has been busy gathering feedback from its growing user base. The platform started out as a place where manufacturers and brands from Europe could connect and chat with each other, but the team found out both parties wanted more. “We constantly reached out to our users to listen to their needs. We’ve compiled all those ideas and implemented them in version two!” says Michiel Dicker, co-founder of Manufy.

Not only a full visual transformation, but many functionalities were added: “Users can now easily start a sampling process, organise projects from start to finish and get sustainability insights” Dicker says. “Manufy is becoming your one-stop-shop for all your sourcing needs!”

The start-up, which launched in december of 2020, has seen a sharp increase in user activity over the last year. With trade shows being canceled due to covid, lots of manufacturers and brands were looking for new ways to do business. Going digital was one of the logical steps.

The production requests being placed on the platform cover a wide range of garments. Hoodies and t-shirts are popular, but the Manufy team also sees lots of shoes, caps, bags, dresses, swimwear and lingerie requests coming in.

Another notable trend in the industry is the ever growing demand for sustainable clothing production. With reports on climate change coming out and more and more consumers asking for sustainable alternatives, brands are making an effort to source their products more responsibly. The fashion industry, being the second largest polluting industry, needs a sort of paradigm shift. “We should focus more on making lower quantity, higher quality products. Making it on demand would be best” says Dicker.

In 2021, nonwovens production in Greater Europe increased in volume by 2.0% to reach 3,120,967 tonnes (and 87.6 billion square metres).

EDANA, the international Association serving the nonwovens and related industries today released its statistics on Nonwovens Production and Deliveries for 2021. Following the impressive growth recorded in 2020, the updated figures for Greater Europe (incl. Western and Eastern Europe countries, Turkey, Belarus, Russia and Ukraine) highlight again the ability of the European industry to innovate and to invest in order to meet the challenges of the pandemic crisis.

In 2021, nonwovens production in Greater Europe increased in volume by 2.0% to reach 3,120,967 tonnes (and 87.6 billion square metres). Since 2019, the European output increased by nearly 9%.

Jacques Prigneaux, EDANA’s Market Analysis and Economic Affairs Director commented “This 2% average growth is in line with European forecasts disclosed in October 2021 in our Global Nonwoven Markets 2020-2025 report. In 2021, significant growth areas for nonwovens were recorded in building construction (+17.4%), agriculture (+11.3%), electronic materials (+10.1%) and air filtration (+9.1%). Countering this, a further decline of -1% was recorded in automotive interior applications. In some market segments, a comparison with the pre-COVID situation is probably more relevant. This is particularly true in hygiene, medical and wipes nonwovens, which were almost flat or slightly decreasing compared to the level reached in 2020, but still much higher than in 2019”.

He added: “Looking at the different production processes of nonwovens, various trends were observed in 2021. The production of fiber-based materials, including Drylaid, Wetlaid, and Airlaid technologies, recorded divergent growth rates (respectively +2.4%, +1.1% and -4.8%), and spunmelt nonwovens recorded a growth rate of +3.1%. In Drylaid, the highest growth in tonnes was observed in needlepunched, with a 6.4% increase. The production of drylaid-hydroentangled, which peaked in 2020, was at the same level a year later”.

• Innovation begins with creativity
• A pioneer of the manmade fiber industry

When the manmade fiber age began a century ago, a German company was responsible for the pioneering work involved. Barmag, established in 1922, was one of the world’s first companies to construct machines for the large-scale production of synthetic staple fibers. To this day, the leading manufacturer of manmade fiber spinning systems and texturing machines in Remscheid – a brand under the aegis of the Swiss Oerlikon Group since 2007 – has shaped technological progress in this sector; in future, with ever more innovations focusing on sustainability and digitalization.

Barmer Maschinenfabrik Aktiengesellschaft (Barmag) is founded in Barmen, located in the Bergische Land region, on March 27, 1922. The German and Dutch founders enter unchartered technological territory, one created as the result of a groundbreaking invention: in 1884, French chemist Count Hilaire Bernigaud de Chardonnet used nitrocellulose to produce the first so-called artificial silk, later known as rayon. The following decades see rapid development focusing on the search for synthetic textile fibers and their manufacturing technologies. As one of the first machine factories, Barmag battles its way through the eventful early years of the manmade fiber industry, the ‘Roaring Twenties’ and the Great Depression – and suffers the extensive destruction of its factories at the end of World War Two. Rebuilding is successful. With the unstoppable success story of purely synthetic plastic fibers such as polyamide, the company flourishes from the 1950s through to the 1970s, establishing sites in all international, for the textile industry at the time important, industrial regions and garnering prestige across the globe in the process. In the ups and downs of expansion, global competition and crises, Barmag reaches the very pinnacle of the market and becomes the preferred technological development partner for the manmade fiber industries in China, India and Turkey. The company has been a high-impact brand under the umbrella of the Oerlikon Group since 2007.

On the wings of innovation
Today, Oerlikon Barmag is a leading supplier of manmade fiber filament spinning systems and part of the Manmade Fibers Solutions business unit of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division. And our aspirations have not diminished: “The striving towards innovation and technological leadership has been, is and will always be part of our DNA”, emphasizes Georg Stausberg, CEO of Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions. In the past, this has been observable in such trailblazing innovations as the revolutionary WINGS generation of winders for POY in 2007 and WINGS for FDY in 2012. Currently, the focus of new and further developments is very much on digitalization and sustainability. Here, Oerlikon Barmag has – as one of the world’s first systems manufacturers – been implementing fully-networked smart factories for globally-leading polyester manufacturers since the end of the last decade. Within this context, digital solutions and automation are also helping to provide greater climate and environmental compatibility. This sustainability commitment is not only evidenced by the e-save label introduced for all products back in 2004: Oerlikon is endeavoring to also make all its sites carbon-neutral by 2030 and to acquire its energy exclusively from renewable sources. An ambitious target, whose achievement could be helped by the Oerlikon Barmag anniversary, states Georg Stausberg: “Innovation begins with creativity. And remembering the past provides plenty of motivation and inspiration for the future.”

• Sales increase of 9.5% to €1,007.0 million driven by almost all business units
• EBITDApre improves by 50.9% to €140.0 million, reaching the upper end of the 2021 guidance raised in July
• Net financial debt reduced from €286.5 million to €206.3 million
• Start of business in 2022 overshadowed by uncertainty resulting from the war in Ukraine

Rising demand in almost all market segments led to a 9.5% increase in Group sales to €1,007.0 million in fiscal 2021 compared to the previous year (2020: €919.4 million). Almost all business units contributed to the pleasing sales performance. At 50.9%, EBITDApre improved disproportionately to Group sales and amounted to €140.0 million in fiscal 2021 (2020: €92.8 million). Increased sales and the associated higher capacity utilization contributed to the improvement in earnings, together with the cost savings achieved as a result of the transformation initiated at the end of 2020.*

Outlook
Based on the assumptions outlined and including the costs of the energy hedges, the company expects Group sales for the 2022 financial year to be at the previous year's level and EBITDApre to be between €110 million and €130 million.*

* See attachment document for more information,

• Six Carbon Capture and Utilisation technologies for a sustainable chemical and fuel production nominated for the innovation award “Best CO2 Utilisation 2022”
• Conference on CO2-based Fuels and Chemicals 2022 – Cologne (Germany) and online, hybrid conference, 23-24 March 2022

Carbon Capture and Utilisation (CCU) Innovations of the Year 2022: A lot of technologies are in place and in development to face the challenges of a sustainable chemicals and fuels production based on the utilisation of captured CO2 from industrial off-gases or directly from the atmosphere. To honor these, nova-Institute grants its annual award, “Best CO2 Utilisation”, within the framework of the “Conference on CO2-based Fuels and Chemicals” taking place in Cologne on 23-24 March 2022. Great submissions reached the nova-Institute and six nominees now get the chance to demonstrate their full potential to a wide audience in Cologne (Germany) and online.

Here are the six nominees:

• Acies Bio (SI) – OneCarbonBio
• Air Company (US) – Air Eau de Parfum
• Avecom (BE) – Power To Protein
• CleanO2 Carbon Capture Technologies (CA) – CleanO2 Soap
• Fraunhofer Institute for Interfacial Engineering and Biotechnology IGB (DE) – eBioCO2n Technology
• Nordic Electrofuel (NO) – E-Fuel 1

• Order intake of CHF 2 225.7 million at record level
• Sales of CHF 969.2 million despite bottlenecks in the supply chains
• EBIT margin of 4.9% and net profit of 3.3% of sales
• Milestones achieved in strategy implementation
• Dividend of CHF 4.00 per share proposed
• Outlook

The 2021 financial year was characterized by a rapid market recovery. As market and technology leader, Rieter succeeded in this environment in posting a record order intake, significantly increased sales compared with the previous year despite the bottlenecks in the supply chains, and generated an EBIT margin of 4.9%. This success is based on the investments in innovation and competitiveness of Rieter in recent years. Crisis management in the 2020 pandemic year, which aimed at benefiting from the expected market recovery after the pandemic, was also a contributing factor. With the acquisition of three businesses from the Saurer Group, a further milestone in the implementation of the strategy has been achieved. The acquisition strengthens Rieter’s market position by completing the ring and compact-spinning system. With the laying of the foundation stone for the Rieter CAMPUS in September 2021, an important prerequisite for the expansion of the company’s technology leadership has been created.

Order Intake and Sales
At the end of 2021, the company had an order backlog of around CHF 1 840 million (December 31, 2020: around CHF 560 million). Rieter closed the 2021 financial year with sales of CHF 969.2 million, which corresponds to an increase of 69% compared to the previous year (2020: CHF 573.0 million).

EBIT, Net Profit and Free Cash Flow
The profit at the EBIT level in the 2021 financial year was CHF 47.6 million, which represents 4.9% of sales. At the net profit level, a profit of CHF 31.7 million accrued, which corresponds to 3.3% in relation to sales. Free cash flow at CHF 128.1 million is a result of the positive developments in earnings and net working capital. The acquisition of three businesses from the Saurer Group for a purchase price of CHF 321.4 million resulted in net debt of CHF 161.9 million; as of December 31, 2020, net liquidity amounted to CHF 41.3 million. At December 31, 2021, liquid funds amounted to CHF 249.4 million (2020: CHF 283.2 million). The equity ratio as of December 31, 2021, was 27.6% (previous year’s reporting date: 36.4%).

Sales by Region
Sales increased in all regions, with the exception of Africa. The highest growth of CHF 126.0 million compared to CHF 50.8 million in the previous year was achieved in India, followed by North and South America with CHF 149.9 million in 2021 compared to CHF 66.4 million in the previous period, and the Asian countries excluding China, India and Turkey with CHF 318.7 million (2020: CHF 184.8 million). In Turkey, Rieter increased sales to CHF 182.3 million (2020: CHF 122.0 million), in China to CHF 135.3 million (2020: CHF 92.8 million) and in Europe to 43.3 million (2020: CHF 38.4 million). In Africa, sales were below the prior-year level at CHF 13.7 million (2020: CHF 17.8 million).

Business Groups
Despite the well-known challenges in the supply chain, the Business Group Machines & Systems posted an order intake of CHF 1 708.6 million (2020: CHF 363.9 million) and achieved sales of CHF 590.3 million, double the previous year’s figure (2020: CHF 295.8 million). Ring and compact-spinning systems, on whose customer benefits Rieter has worked intensively in recent years, were particularly in demand.
The order intake of the Business Group Components was CHF 296.0 million, 75% above the previous year’s level (2020: CHF 169.1 million). Against the backdrop of successful strategy implementation and good capacity utilization at spinning mills worldwide, sales increased to CHF 231.5 million (2020: CHF 174.3 million). The Business Group After Sales recorded an order intake of CHF 221.1 million, 106% higher than the previous year (2020: CHF 107.2 million). Sales reached a level of CHF 147.4 million (2020: CHF 102.9 million). The positive evolution of the Business Group After Sales was also significantly influenced by successful strategy implementation and good capacity utilization at spinning mills around the world.

Acquisition of three Saurer businesses
Effective from December 1, 2021, Rieter is consolidating the components businesses acquired from Saurer. With the acquisition of Accotex (elastomer components for spinning machines) and Temco (bearing solutions for filament machines), Rieter is strengthening its market position in the components business. The acquisition of the third business from Saurer (automatic winder) completes and thus considerably increases the attractiveness of Rieter’s ring and compact-spinning system. This acquisition marks an important milestone in the implementation of the company’s strategy as an innovative systems supplier. The transaction is expected to be finalized in the first half of 2022.

Rieter CAMPUS
On September 8, 2021, at the Winterthur location, the foundation stone was laid for the Rieter CAMPUS, which includes a customer and technology center as well as an administration building. With the Rieter CAMPUS, the company is creating a state-of-the-art and creative working environment, ensuring access to cutting-edge European technology and enhancing its ability to attract young talent. Thus, the Rieter CAMPUS will make an important contribution to the implementation of the innovation strategy and to the enhancement of the company’s technology leadership position.

Dividend
In view of the profit of CHF 31.7 million at the net profit level in the 2021 financial year, the Board of Directors proposes to the shareholders for 2021 the distribution of a dividend of CHF 4.00 per share. This corresponds to a payout ratio of 57%.

Changes to the Group Executive Committee
With effect from March 1, 2021, the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding AG appointed Roger Albrecht as Head of the Business Group Machines & Systems and a member of the Group Executive Committee.

Board of Directors and Annual General Meeting
At the 130th Annual General Meeting held on April 15, 2021, the shareholders approved all motions proposed by the Board of Directors. The Chairman of the Board Bernhard Jucker and the Directors This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald, Peter Spuhler, Roger Baillod, Carl Illi and Luc Tack were confirmed for a further one-year term of office. Stefaan Haspeslagh was newly elected to the Board of Directors for a one-year term of office. This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald and Bernhard Jucker, the members of the Remuneration Committee who were standing for election, were also each re-elected for a one-year term of office.

Changes to the Board of Directors
The two members of the Board of Directors, Luc Tack and Stefaan Haspeslagh, resigned from Rieter’s Board of Directors with effect from August 30, 2021.

Outlook
Rieter anticipates a gradual normalization of the demand for new systems in the coming months. The company expects demand for wear and spare parts to remain at a good level due to high capacity utilization at spinning mills. For the full year 2022, due to the high order backlog and the consolidation of the businesses acquired from Saurer, Rieter anticipates sales of around CHF 1 500 million. Sales in the second half of 2022 are expected to be higher than in the first half of the year. The realization of sales from the order backlog continues to be associated with risks in relation to the well-known bottlenecks in the supply chains, the ongoing pandemic and the geopolitical uncertainties. Despite the price increases already implemented, the rise in global costs poses a risk to the development of profitability.