From the Sector

In China, the textile industry is forward-looking and resilient – with a healthy appetite for new technologies and a determination to keep its leading position. Sustainability is increasingly coming into focus, so there is a growing demand for recycling technologies, as well as automated solutions and digitalization. Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary General of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association, is clear: “China is the main market for a large number of our association members.” On top of growing consumer demand and technological capabilities, the latest ambitious five-year plan will drive further development of the Chinese textile industry in world markets, and Swiss companies will work with all stakeholders to enable its success.

Market proximity
Swiss companies realized many years ago that geographical proximity is the key to success. Stäubli has started to set up offices in Chinese cities since 1998 and counts 12 locations today, to serve the whole country. In 2002, Itema established a centralized local branch which today has 160 employees in various functions. Loepfe has expanded its presence by creating an independent local business unit to overcome the 9,000 km distance by air, while Uster Technologies has had a Chinese subsidiary since 1982, with offices and service stations in different provinces. Luwa set up its offices and workshop in Shanghai in 1997. Rieter established a presence in mainland China in 2005, driven by a strong commitment to expanding the country’s know-how and expertise – and ten years later opened an advanced research center. All Swiss companies with serious business goals in China have made similar commitments to connect with customers and maintain strong relationships.

Understanding Chinese customers
Swiss companies also understand that Chinese customers require dedicated attention, and that speed is more essential than ever in delivering both machines and services.
Manufacturers in China are seeking cost-effective solutions to remain competitive, while consumers are looking for value in their purchases. Companies need to develop solutions that provide tangible economic benefits to their clients. Furthermore, energy savings have become paramount in China, due to the government's commitment to environmental sustainability and reduced carbon emissions. “Businesses are adopting more energy-efficient processes and technologies to meet stringent energy conservation and emission reduction targets,” says Peter Schnickmann, Managing Director at Luwa Air Engineering (Shanghai). He notes an investment trend for solutions helping Chinese companies cut operational costs and minimize their carbon footprint.

To enhance the reputation of both companies and products – and boost the image of the entire industry – the environmental impact needs to decrease. Priorities are saving water and waste, as well as reducing, replacing or completely eliminating the use of harmful substances. China has a strong demand for environmental-friendly solutions and sustainable technologies.

Customer-oriented in weaving
The huge number of Chinese fabric producers calls for an immense volume of weaving machinery to be supplied by international and local providers. Swiss machinery manufacturers hold an impressive share of this business.
Chinese weavers require advanced technology, with increasingly higher standards of efficiency. In weaving preparation, latest solutions match the speed, quality and reliability now wanted. Weaving machines too offer the eco-efficiency, performance, and ease of use needed, with innovations that extend the scope of sustainable weaving, and open-platform systems configurable to weavers’ specific operations. A huge increase in demand for technical textiles in recent years has been driven by applications such as carbon fiber, aramid and glass fiber.

Profitable in spinning
China’s competitive advantages come from its large-scale and integrated manufacturing capabilities, along with the use of advanced automation and digitization technologies. Spinners aim to capitalize on extended market opportunities, with more economical production. The latest air-jet spinning machines serve these goals, allowing exceptionally low production costs per kilogram of yarn, coupled with high flexibility and reliability. Sustainable yarns are in great demand.

The automation trend in spinning mills focuses on connecting production processes. Data is used to ensure the highest quality standards, most efficient raw material usage, reduction of waste, and energy savings. To make spinning mills more competitive, latest solutions combine cutting-edge hardware, data-enabled software and renowned textile expertise.

The innovative company RUDOLF has been honoured for its outstanding achievements in the field of sustainability and environmental protection and has won the coveted Responsible Care Federal Competition 2023 in the category SME.

The award was presented as part of a competition organised by the German Chemical Industry Association (VCI). Responsible Care is a voluntary initiative of the chemical industry. Its aim is continuous improvement in the areas of environmental protection, health and safety. Chemical companies and associations in more than 50 countries support the initiative. The award-winning project of the innovative company RUDOLF impressed the jury with its pioneering technology, which reduces CO2 emissions by up to 99.9 % compared to conventional cooling systems. „The project uses near-surface geothermal energy for industrial cooling - according to the motto „Efficiency First“ the most efficient way has been chosen!“ - Jury statement
 
TerraCool‘s winning system uses near-surface geothermal energy as the most natural form of cooling. It utilises the constant temperature of around 10°C at a depth of around 10 metres below ground. A specially developed heat exchanger system takes advantage of this natural cooling effect. In the future, it will be used to cool chemical production processes at RUDOLF. The main advantage of this technology is that it is CO₂ neutral. The technology is highly efficient and consumes only 0.1 % of the electricity used by conventional cooling systems.  By using natural resources, the system reduces CO₂ emissions by up to 99.9 % compared to conventional cooling systems, resulting in a very presentable carbon footprint. Another impressive aspect is its high energy efficiency. With just 1 kW of electrical energy, the system generates up to 600 kW of cooling capacity, thanks to the use of a highly energyefficient circulating pump system. Energy is, and will continue to be, a valuable „raw material“ for our industry and one that we need to manage carefully. The system is self-contained and has no contact with groundwater. No environmentally harmful refrigerants or antifreeze are required. With this technology, RUDOLF has made a pioneering contribution to the climate-neutral transformation of the economy, proving that innovative solutions can go hand in hand with environmental protection and sustainability. The Responsible Care award recognises the company‘s commitment to a greener future.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK is celebrating a year of achievements since its new Fibre Development Centre was first opened. This period has shown a marked acceleration in the number of client technical trials conducted, involving the ever-increasing development of new polymers.

FET designs, develops and manufactures extrusion equipment for a range of high value textile material applications worldwide, offering melt spinning, wet spinning and spunbond/meltblown options. Since its inception in 1997, a major part of FET’s service portfolio has always been to collaborate with industrial and research establishments in testing, evaluating and developing high value materials with diverse, functional properties. FET’s previous Process Development Laboratory presided over the development of about 60 new polymer types in multifilament, monofilament and nonwoven formats.

Since the new Fibre Development Centre came on stream, this process has accelerated and the number of new polymers has now increased to over 70, with considerably enhanced facilities more than doubling capacity and increasing efficiency. Clients frequently spend several days on site participating in development trials and technical sales meetings, so the new Centre is designed to make their stay even more efficient and comfortable.

With more new trials booked for the rest of the year and well into 2024, it is expected that many more new polymers will be developed, with sustainable fibres leading the way.

•    First production supercar created with Hypetex coloured carbon fibre
•    Paint-replacement technology reduces weight to enhance performance

British car manufacturer Briggs Automotive Company (BAC) has created a unique Hypetex coloured carbon fibre version of its Mono R, reducing the weight by removing the need for paint.  

The original BAC Mono R was created to be lighter and more powerful than the standard model, with 343bhp and 555kg total weight, equating to a power-to-weight ratio of 618bhp-per-tonne. By removing the need for paint coatings in this version, the net weight of the exterior is reduced compared to a painted shell, resulting in a further improved overall performance.

The car’s body was created using Hypetex’s titanium carbon fibre twill, and finished with a crystalized lacquer, offering a unique aesthetic finish. The ultra-lightweight supercar can accelerate from zero to 60mph in less than 2.5 seconds.  

Hypetex’s paint-replacement technology retains the visible weave, allowing for a bold design and a choice of colours without technical compromises, perfectly aligning with BAC’s initiatives to maximise performance whilst creating bespoke supercars. Paint generally adds 138 grams per metre squared, whereas Hypetex adds just 17 grams for the same area, offering an 8x weight saving.
This bespoke version of BAC’s single-seater Mono R was subject to BAC’s renowned BAC Bespoke programme, which ensures that no two Monos are the same. The client, a US-based collector, worked with BAC’s design team to design the car to their personal taste.   

Born out of Formula 1 technology, Hypetex offers manufacturers sustainable aesthetic materials with technical and efficiency benefits. This collaboration is an all-British success story, with the Hypetex carbon fibre body built by Formaplex, a leading UK-based manufacturing company who manufacture lightweight engineered solutions for top tier customers in Automotive, Aerospace and Defence markets. BAC’s supply chain is 95% UK-based.  

Hypetex continues to expand its growing portfolio of the use of coloured carbon fibre to add personalisation to the automotive field, with its material recently featured on the 2024 Ford Mustang Dark Horse.  

At this year’s Techtextil India, the Polymer Processing Solutions Division of the Swiss Oerlikon group will be presenting the trade audience with new applications, special processes and sustainable solutions focusing on the production of industrial textiles. Between September 9 and 12, the discussions at Jio World Convention Centre (JWCC), Mumbai, will be concentrating on airbags, seat belts, tire cord, geotextiles, filter nonwovens and their diverse applications.

More polyester for airbags
The yarns used in airbags are made predominantly from polyamide. As a result of increasingly diverse airbag applications and also the increasing size of the systems used, polyester is today used as well, depending on the application requirements and cost-benefit considerations. Against this background, the Oerlikon Barmag technol-ogies make an invaluable contribution. In addition to high productivity and low energy consumption, they particularly excel in terms of their stable production processes. Furthermore, they comply with every high quality standard for airbags, which – as in the case of virtually all other textile products used in vehicle construction – must provide the highest level of safety for vehicle occupants - without any loss of function in any climate and for the lifetime of the vehicle

Buckle up!
Seat belts have to withstand tensile forces in excess of three tons and simultaneously stretch in a controlled manner in emergencies in order to reduce the load in the event of impact. A seat belt comprises approximately 300 filament yarns, whose individual, high-tenacity yarn threads are spun from around 100 individual filaments. “With our unique, patented Single Filament Layer Technology, we offer a sophisticated and simultaneously gentle high-tenacity (HT) yarn process for manufacturing these lifesavers and other applications made from industrial yarn”, explains André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing.

Road reinforcement using geotextiles
Low stretch, ultra-high tenacity, high rigidity – industrial yarns offer outstanding properties for the demand-ing tasks carried out by geotextiles; for instance, as geogrids in the base course system under asphalt. Normally, geotextiles have extremely high yarn titers of up to 24,000 denier. Oerlikon Barmag system concepts simultaneously manufacture three filament yarns of 6,000 denier each. Due to the high spinning titers, fewer yarns can be plied together to the required geo-yarn titer in a more cost- and energy-efficient manner.

hycuTEC –  quantum leap for filter media
In the case of its hycuTEC hydro-charging solution, Oerlikon Neumag offers a new technology for charging nonwovens that increases filter efficiency to more than 99.99%. For meltblown producers, this means material savings of 30% with significantly superior filter performance. For end users, the consequence is noticeably improved comfort resulting from significantly reduced breathing resistance. With its considerably lower water and energy consumption, this new development is also a future-proof, sustainable technology.

DyStar, a leading specialty chemical company announced the release of its thirteenth annual Integrated Sustainability Report. The report is prepared in accordance with the updated GRI Standards 2021: Core Options. Despite the challenging business landscape and economic situations, DyStar remains committed to delivering tangible values that the Group has strategically created through the six major capitals, using the Integrated Reporting <IR> framework.

DyStar’s business strategies have proven their effectiveness and delivered significant progress toward its 2025 targets. The company has successfully reduced its environmental footprint in Greenhouse Gas Emission intensity and Wastewater production intensity by more than 30%, compared to the baseline year 2011.

More specifically, DyStar’s Scope 1 and Scope 2 Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Emissions intensity was 45% lower (tCO₂e per ton production) than the baseline year 2011, with a totaled GHG emission of 56.91 thousand tCO₂e. This is also 9% lower when compared to FY2021.

Similarly, for Wastewater production intensity, DyStar achieved a 52% reduction compared to baseline year 2011, and a 24% reduction from FY2021.

Some other key highlights and value-adds include (when compared to FY2021):

• Financial Capital: The results of production efficiency and streamlining manufacturing indirectly contributed to the reduction of 5.8% in operating cost
• Manufactured Capital: Apart from ensuring quality suppliers through DyStar’s internal audit, DyStar’s effort on environmental performance and climate impacts with the Institute of Public & Environmental Affairs (IPE) was recognized and ranked second by industry on IPE’s Green Supply Chain Corporate Information Transparency Index (CITI)
• Intellectual Capital: The innovative Cadira® modules continue to support the supply chain with a lower carbon footprint
• Human Capital: The full launch of DyStar University (DSU), a proprietary LMS, supports the learning and development of employees globally
• Social Capital: DyStar’s culturally diverse workforce organized a variety of activities and events in support of its global community and made a total contribution of USD 128,946 to various corporate social responsibility (“CSR”) program.

Despite the harsh economic headwinds, these figures further demonstrated the effectiveness of DyStar’s initiatives that were installed throughout the reporting year.

DyStar maintains a cautious yet optimistic outlook on its global performance.

INDA and EDANA, the leading trade associations representing nonwovens and related industries, joined forces to implement and support the industry’s first Quality and Audit Program (QAP) in the United States. This joint effort will increase the reach of, and support for, the program in the North American absorbent hygiene products and wet wipes industries.

Much like the harmonization of test methods years ago, this joint program has the potential to reduce complexity for both suppliers and converters of AHP and wipes. This program grew from the inefficiency of facing multiple audits from converter supplier audit programs, often assessing similar requirements, but according to differing standards.

The program went through a rigorous testing and piloting phase before being rolled out in the summer of 2022. Initially only available in Europe, the program is expanding its reach to cover Asia and the Americas.

More information is available on the EDANA website where converters and suppliers can register to take part. The program is based on a harmonized quality and hygiene standard, which facilitates an objective third-party audit. Organizations can also register to follow a training course to familiarize themselves with the standard.

In the first half of 2023, Rieter recorded a significant increase in sales of 22.2% to CHF 758.2 million, despite some cancellations or postponements of deliveries as a result of the earthquake in Türkiye. Cyclical market downturns in the individual market segments, which were already apparent in the second half of 2022, led to an order intake of CHF 325.0 million (-62.6%) in the reporting period, lower than in the corresponding period of the previous year.

Order intake in almost all regions was characterized by the reluctance to invest in new machines. Only in China did order intake increase due to investments by spinning mills in improving their local competitiveness. In addition, some customers held back pending investment decisions and waited for the innovations presented at ITMA in Milan in June 2023. At the same time, demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts declined due to the global market downturn.

On June 30, 2023, the company had a high order backlog of around CHF 1 100 million (June 30, 2022: around CHF 2 100 million). This therefore extends into the year 2024. As in the previous year, cancellations in the reporting period were around 5% of the order backlog, also impacted by the effects of the severe earthquake in Türkiye.

In the first half of 2023, Rieter posted a profit of CHF 25.2 million at the EBIT level, with an EBIT margin of 3.3% (first half of 2022: loss of CHF -10.2 million) and a net profit of CHF 13.3 million (first half of 2022: loss of CHF -25.2 million).

“Next Level” performance program planned
The challenging market situation over the past two years was marked by severe disruptions in the global supply chain in conjunction with rising material, energy, labor, and production costs. The current global demand for textile products remains at a low level. To increase long-term value for customers, employees, and shareholders, Rieter, as technology leader, is planning a performance program called “Next Level”. The goal of the program is to strengthen sales excellence, sharpen customer focus, improve cost efficiency in production and optimize fixed cost structures. The one-time cost of the program is anticipated to be around CHF 45 to 50 million, which will have an impact on the second half of 2023. Most of the program initiatives will be implemented before the end of 2023 with a view to achieving an expected impact from as early as 2024. With these measures Rieter is aiming to reduce operating costs by some CHF 80 million per year.

The program includes provisions for the net reduction of around 300 positions throughout the Group in relation to overhead functions. The possibility of further market- and volume-related adjustments in the order of 400 to 600 positions cannot be excluded. At the end of June 2023, Rieter had a global workforce of 5 555 employees.

Outlook
Given the economic situation and the ongoing cyclical market weakness, Rieter continues to expect below-average demand for new equipment in the coming months. A revival is not expected until the fourth quarter of 2023 at the earliest. Rieter also believes that demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts will not recover until later in 2023.

For the full year 2023, Rieter expects an EBIT margin of around 5 to 7% (including positive special effects of less than 2%) and sales at the previous year’s level of around CHF 1.5 billion.

The EU's planned ban on the entire group of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) would endanger many industrial processes, states VDMA Textile Machinery. Textile manufacturing would be affected twice – by missing important chemicals for technical textile production and by the lack of indispensable textile machine components. The latter would affect the whole supply chain from textile machinery manufacturers and its suppliers to the textile industry in the EU.

Solid PFAS parts are widely used in textile machinery production, especially where extreme conditions prevail. Verena Thies, Managing Shareholder Thies GmbH & Co. KG, explains: “Our textile dyeing machines are world leaders and set standards in efficiency and sustainability. They work under pressure at temperatures of up to 140° C using highly acidic, highly basic and/or oxidative or even reductive chemicals. This is precisely why PFAS is needed, for example, in seals and rings, flaps as well as valves for a long-lasting and high-quality machine concept – because there are no alternatives with qualitatively equivalent properties. In addition, PTFE semi-finished products enable a sliding and gentle contact with the textile fabric in ecologically important techniques in the transformation of textile wet finishing."

PTFE and also FKM are fluoropolymers (fluoroplastics and fluoroelastomers), a group within the broad PFAS range of about 10,000 substances which would be banned for production, use and sale in the EU. They are high-tech materials, and as so-called "polymers of low concern" are not a danger to the environment, according to the OECD. Furthermore, these components are installed inside a machine and exchanged or disposed of properly. PFAS such as PTFE and FKM must be exempted from the ban, demands the VDMA in its position paper.

"In this way, the association also supports the approach taken in Great Britain. With the 10,000 substances, everything is lumped together, although the various PFAS groups are very different," warns Dr Sarah Brückner, Head of VDMA Environmental Affairs and Sustainability. "We should take our cue from the UK and look at the substance groups in a differentiated way."
Apart from several types of dyeing machines, PFAS components are indispensable in textile drying machines (e.g., conveyor dryers, tumblers and stenters) and damping machines. They are also used in fully automatic chemical dispensing systems and pressure vessels for thermochemical treatment of textile recycling material, heat recovery systems and wastewater treatment technology. This means that a lot of machines needed for a sustainable textile production would be affected by the PFAS ban.

VDMA Textile Machinery will take part in the ongoing EU public consultation. The association will describe indispensable key functionalities and conditions of use in the textile machinery sector as well as the consequences for the companies and the customers in the EU if the ban is imposed. The consultation ends on September 25, 2023, and VDMA urged its members affected by the planned restriction to participate in the consultation at an early stage. This is the only way to ensure that the broad scope of the mechanical and plant engineering sector is represented.

From June 8 to 14, 2023, the leading international trade fair for textile machinery manufacturing ITMA took place in Milan, Italy. In total, over 111,000 guests visited the trade fair. Groz-Beckert was able to present its innovations to more than 7,000 customers and business partners, as well as welcoming many other visitors to its booth – including over 280 students.

An international audience gathered at the Groz-Beckert booth: guests came from 84 different countries. The majority of visitors came from Italy with just under 15 percent, followed by Germany with 14 percent, Turkey with 11 percent, India with 9 percent and the USA with 3 percent. For the first time, HR specialists were on hand at the Groz-Beckert booth to look after the student groups, offering the young people comprehensive insights together with experts from the Technology and Development Center (TEZ).

Groz-Beckert presented numerous innovations from its six product divisions Knitting, Weaving, Felting, Tufting, Carding and Sewing at the ITMA. One focus of the innovations was on the topics of efficiency, process stability and sustainability. While the topic of sustainability was reflected in the products on the one hand, a separate area in the Groz-Beckert Gallery was dedicated to the topic on the other. Here it was shown what contribution Groz-Beckert is making to making its own productions and its sites sustainable.