From the Sector

More than 4 400 organisations, companies and individuals submitted comments and information on the proposal to restrict per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in the European Economic Area.

At the end of the consultation on 25 September, ECHA had received more than 5 600 comments from more than 4 400 organisations, companies and individuals.

The comments will be checked by ECHA's scientific committees for Risk Assessment (RAC) and Socio-Economic Analysis (SEAC), and those providing relevant evidence-based information will be considered in the opinion making process.

The five countries who prepared the initial proposal will also review the consultation input and may update their initial proposal based on it.

Many comments submitted during the consultation are already published on ECHA’s website. Information indicated as confidential by the consultee is not made public. Comments received very close to the deadline are currently being processed and will be published shortly.

Next steps
RAC and SEAC are evaluating the proposed restriction and considering the relevant information received through the consultation. The committees develop their independent, scientific opinions over a series of meetings, where draft opinions are discussed. Attention is given to all aspects and impacted sectors.

ECHA will deliver the final opinions to the European Commission in the shortest possible timeframe, while ensuring proper scrutiny by the scientific committees. Once the committees adopt their opinions, they will be communicated to the public.

The Commission, together with the EU Member States, will decide on the restriction.

Background
The restriction proposal was prepared by authorities in Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden. It was submitted to ECHA on 13 January 2023. It aims to reduce PFAS emissions into the environment and make products and processes safer for people. The six-month consultation ran from 22 March to 25 September 2023.

Further information
•    Consultation comments
•    Restriction on the manufacture, placing on the market and use of PFAS
•    Topical page on PFAS
•    REACH restriction process

A delegation of Italian textile machinery companies will attend the 2023 edition of TITAS TAIPEI, which will be held in Taipei, Taiwan, from October 17 to 19, 2023. Taiwan is judged as a very promising market for the Italian textile machinery industry, especially in the innovative sectors of technical textiles and nonwovens.

In 2022, Italian exports to the Asian country exceeded the value of 17 million euros, and in the period January-June 2023, the value has already reached 7 million euros. The attention for the Taiwanese market has led ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and Italian Trade Agency to set up a pavilion at the upcoming edition of TITAS TAIPEI.

Six Italian textile machinery manufacturers, all ACIMIT member companies, will exhibit in the pavilion: Ferraro, Danitech, Lgl, Ms Italy, Reggiani, Unitech.

At the upcoming TITAS TAIPEI, therefore, visitors will be introduced to Italian technology, once again a key player in the textile production process.

The continued weak development of the markets relevant to Lenzing, coupled with very cautious market expectations in 2023, requires a reassessment of Lenzing AG’s macroeconomic environment.

Taking into account the current lack of market recovery, the previous earnings forecast is not expected to be achieved. The Lenzing Group is therefore adjusting its forecast for earnings development and is assuming EBITDA in a range of EUR 270 mn to EUR 330 mn for the 2023 financial year.

CEO Stephan Sielaff: “The recovery expected for the second half of the year in the markets relevant to us has not yet occurred. This makes the early measures we took all the more correct. We launched an ambitious cost reduction program back in November 2022, which delivered the expected results ahead of schedule. Building on this, we are implementing a holistic and consistent value creation program with a focus on measures to strengthen profitability and cash flow generation and to exploit the growth potential in the fiber markets through targeted sales activities.”

The Lenzing Group will announce further details about the value creation program when it publishes its quarterly results on November 3, 2023.

•    First production supercar created with Hypetex coloured carbon fibre
•    Paint-replacement technology reduces weight to enhance performance

British car manufacturer Briggs Automotive Company (BAC) has created a unique Hypetex coloured carbon fibre version of its Mono R, reducing the weight by removing the need for paint.  

The original BAC Mono R was created to be lighter and more powerful than the standard model, with 343bhp and 555kg total weight, equating to a power-to-weight ratio of 618bhp-per-tonne. By removing the need for paint coatings in this version, the net weight of the exterior is reduced compared to a painted shell, resulting in a further improved overall performance.

The car’s body was created using Hypetex’s titanium carbon fibre twill, and finished with a crystalized lacquer, offering a unique aesthetic finish. The ultra-lightweight supercar can accelerate from zero to 60mph in less than 2.5 seconds.  

Hypetex’s paint-replacement technology retains the visible weave, allowing for a bold design and a choice of colours without technical compromises, perfectly aligning with BAC’s initiatives to maximise performance whilst creating bespoke supercars. Paint generally adds 138 grams per metre squared, whereas Hypetex adds just 17 grams for the same area, offering an 8x weight saving.
This bespoke version of BAC’s single-seater Mono R was subject to BAC’s renowned BAC Bespoke programme, which ensures that no two Monos are the same. The client, a US-based collector, worked with BAC’s design team to design the car to their personal taste.   

Born out of Formula 1 technology, Hypetex offers manufacturers sustainable aesthetic materials with technical and efficiency benefits. This collaboration is an all-British success story, with the Hypetex carbon fibre body built by Formaplex, a leading UK-based manufacturing company who manufacture lightweight engineered solutions for top tier customers in Automotive, Aerospace and Defence markets. BAC’s supply chain is 95% UK-based.  

Hypetex continues to expand its growing portfolio of the use of coloured carbon fibre to add personalisation to the automotive field, with its material recently featured on the 2024 Ford Mustang Dark Horse.  

Members of TMAS – the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – will be taking part in the forthcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition, taking place from November 19-23 2023 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre in Shanghai, China.

Weaving
In the area of weaving, 93% of the 114,000 new looms delivered in 2022 went to Asia, according to the latest figures from the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), with China the top destination, followed by India.
As a result, TMAS members like Vandewiele Sweden AB and Eltex have a huge market to address that has been established over many decades.

Vandewiele Sweden AB benefits from all of the synergies and accumulated know-how of the market-leading Vandewiele Group, supplying weft yarn feeding and tension control units for weaving looms to the majority of weaving machine manufacturers. It also retrofits its latest technologies to working mills to enable instant benefits in terms of productivity and control.

Yarn and sewing thread monitoring
With nearly 70 years of expertise in yarn sensor technology, Eltex of Sweden AB has been at the forefront of new product development. Its EYE and EyETM systems are capable of accurately and efficiently monitoring the movement and tension of more than 1,000 yarns simultaneously. These systems are suitable for various applications and fibre types, including warping, winding, multiaxial weaving and new material applications.

Eltex sewing tension monitors, such as the ETM422, have been well-received by customers. This device can monitor the tension of sewing threads in real time, effectively improving the quality and safety of sewn products. Particularly in China's rapidly growing automotive manufacturing sector, the ETM422 has seen widespread use to meet the industry’s escalating demands for product safety and quality.

Dyeing and finishing
“Digitalisation, automation and AI have become the key enablers for sustainable gains across the entire textile industry and so much has been achieved in the past few years, especially in terms of automation,” says TMAS secretary general Therese Premler-Andersson. “One area in which TMAS members are really making a difference right now, is in replacing water and energy-intensive technologies for the dyeing and finishing processes with new digital technologies.”

The TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology for textile finishing and remoistening, for example, will be showcased in Shanghai by Baldwin. It not only reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption, but also provides the flexibility to adapt to a customer’s requirements in terms of single and double-sided finishing applications. The TexCoat G4 can reduce water consumption by as much as 50% compared to traditional padding application processes.

The Südwolle collection of yarns for weaving and circular knitting continues its evolutionary path based on the key concept of Responsibility. This principle guides Südwolle Group's commitment and engagement regarding all areas of business and stakeholders - the environment, the textile industry production chain, consumers, employees and the social repercussions of its business.

The intersection between these 6 areas has resulted in a collection in which the concept of seasonality is blurred, and products have a flexible, versatile use. The use of cutting-edge technology means yarns offer a high level of quality, suitable for apparel with outstanding durability, a factor that helps to reduce the environmental impact of textile waste and disposable fashion.

Overview of the collection
The collection is divided into 4 themes.
Natural, biodegradable or recycled fibre blends intended for crepe and crinkled fabrics are characterized by substantial twist and a high level of performance. The selection of fibres is oriented towards sustainability, with wool and silk organze combined with LENZINGTM ECOVEROTM viscose and Q-NOVA® regenerated polyamide.

Fuji crepe X-compact Nm 40/1 Z 1050 (40% wool 21.2 μ, 60% FSC certified LENZINGTM viscose EV), new this season, features a smooth look and no pilling thanks to the use of X-compact spinning technology, which produces yarns with excellent performance and durability.

When it comes to light, natural blends, wool and linen or wool, linen and silk blends follow the trend for softly fluid structures, such as the new Peschici Nm 42/1 Z 600 (53% wool 18.4 μ, 23% linen, 24% silk), with a fresh, dry handle and very current dappled effect, which results from the skilful combination of different fibres.

Contributing to a more sustainable and traceable textile production also involves attention to all fibres used. Mohair used for luxury yarns in noble fibres is strictly RMS (Responsible Mohair Standard) certified, which traces its origin, guaranteeing animal welfare and production according to responsible standards, similar to the analogous RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) used for wool. Bosforo RWS RMS Nm 32/1 Z 950 (20% wool 20.8 μ RWS, 60% FSC certified LENZINGTM viscose EV, 20% RMS Kid Mohair) is a fresh, bright yarn that is soft on the skin, suitable for trans-seasonal products, an example of careful selection of raw materials.

Among the fancy yarns, delicately animated structures predominate for naturally elegant creations, represented by Niche Nm 34/2 S 460 (42% wool 21.2 μ, 58% bourette silk), a twisted yarn in wool and bourette silk, which adds dynamism with its characteristic rough, knotty surface.

adidas launches its new LFSTLR jersey collection, featuring the season 23/24 third jerseys of some its leading clubs, re-imagined as fashion-focused, lifestyle streetwear.

LFSTLR blurs the lines between football performance and streetwear culture, re-defining what it means to represent your club away from the terraces. The collection includes adaptations of the third jerseys of Arsenal, FC Bayern Munich, Juventus, Manchester United and Real Madrid, retaining the overall design blueprint of the authentic on-pitch and fan versions but with a focus on wearability and comfort over pure performance for the field of play.

Each jersey is made with an elevated base material, including heavier superior fabrics for additional comfort as well as featuring a more premium trim execution and detailing to truly ramp up the style factor. The application of a tonal adidas badge gives each jersey a clean, crisp look that gives the club crests additional prominence. Between 70-100% of the materials used in each jersey are from recycled or renewable sources.

adidas worked with each club to appoint a Creative Lead, tapping into the worlds of fashion and music, and ensuring the unique flair of each team came through with bespoke individuality:

• Arsenal linked up with Grammy-award winning rapper, Pusha T
• FC Bayern collaborated with Achraf, one of the hottest names in the German fashion and music industry
• Juventus called upon Italian style with fashion photographer Giampaolo Sgura
• Manchester United teamed up with Nigerian Afropop singer-songwriter, Adekunle Gold & Manchester’s The KTNA
• Real Madrid worked with renowned Mexican rapper, Alemán 

OCSiAl, a leader in graphene nanotube technologies, has been granted a construction permit for a nanotube production facility near Belgrade, Serbia. The new nanotube synthesis plant will be launched in 2024 and will have an initial annual capacity of 60 tonnes of graphene nanotubes. Over the next two years, the capacity of this plant will be increased to 120 tonnes per year. “The project will facilitate logistics and lower supply chain costs. European-produced nanotubes and nanotube derivatives will be primarily supplied to our customers in central and western Europe, North America, and Asia,” said OCSiAl Group Senior Vice President Gregory Gurevich.
 
In addition to synthesizing nanotubes, the facility will manufacture nanotube suspensions for lithium-ion battery manufacturers in Europe, the US, and Asia – enough to enhance the performance of more than 1 mln electric cars with an average battery capacity of 75 kWh per car. OCSiAl nanotubes create long and robust electrical networks between active material particles, improving key battery characteristics, including cycle life, lower DCR, C-rate performance, and cohesion between active battery material particles, making the battery electrodes more durable. Graphene nanotubes unlock new battery technologies, including high-silicon content anodes, thick LFP cathodes, fast-charging graphite anodes, and more. They can be applied in both conventional and emerging battery tech, such as a dry battery electrode coating process, and solid-state batteries.
 
As well as synthesizing nanotubes and producing suspensions, OCSiAl project includes manufacturing of nanotube concentrates for high-performance polymers. The project has passed environmental impact assessment and it is 100% powered by green energy. It enjoys support from Serbian municipal and national governments. The plant is planned to be certified in accordance with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, and ISO 45001, and to be compliant with the IATF 16949 automotive industry standard. The project will create more than 200 job opportunities for engineers, scientists, managers, operators, and administrative staff.
 
Currently, OCSiAl has an extensive manufacturing system of nanotube-based products in the regions of highest market demand, such as China, Japan, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Malaysia, and other countries. The Serbia nanotube hub will operate in conjunction with the company’s operational R&D center and planned graphene nanotube synthesis facility in Luxembourg.

Die AZL Aachen GmbH, bekannter Innovationspartner für Industriekooperationen auf dem Gebiet der Leichtbautechnologieforschung, startet eines neuen Projekts mit dem Titel "Trends und Designfaktoren für Wasserstoffdruckbehälter". Das Projekt wird Fragestellungen der Industrie in Bezug auf die Wasserstoffspeicherung adressieren.

AZL Aachen GmbH, a recognized innovator in lightweight technologies research and industry collaboration, announces the initiation of a new project titled "Trends and Design Factors for Hydrogen Pressure Vessels". The project aims to address industry needs surrounding hydrogen storage.

Hydrogen has gained significant attention as a key technological solution for decarbonization, with high pressure storage and transportation emerging as vital components. Its applications extend from stationary storage solutions to mobile pressure vessels employed in sectors such as transportation and energy systems.

The AZL team, renowned for its high reputation in providing market and technology insights as well as developing component and production concepts in the format of Joint Partner Projects seeks for companies along the whole composite value chain interested in further developing their application know how in this economically highly relevant field.

The project will provide an in depth exploration of market insights, regulatory standards, and intellectual property landscapes. Beyond this, there is a dedicated focus on staying updated with state of the art and advancements in design, materials, and man ufacturing techniques.

An integral component of the project involves the creation of reference designs by AZL´s engineering team. The reference designs will encompass a variety of pressure vessel configurations and will consider a diverse range of materials and production concep ts.

With the scheduled project start in October 2023, and a project timeline of approximately nine months, AZL encourages companies active across the composite value chain to participate. Companies interested in participating or seeking further information should reach out directly to the AZL expert team.

Germany-based ZwissTex is a leading manufacturer of textiles with over 150 years of experience, creating innovative and sustainable textile solutions for the automotive and apparel industries. The company also operates in Mexico, to specifically serve the automotive sector across North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) markets. Via OEMs, ZwissTex supplies German automakers including Volkswagen Auto Group, BMW, and Mercedes, as well as American manufacturers in select cases.

Unlike other Kornit customers, ZwissTex had no previous experience printing their own materials, and saw Kornit’s sustainable, single-step, Presto MAX S production system as an effective means of increasing their product capabilities.

“Our textiles were not classically printed in the past, and we did not produce any classical textiles in fashion, which is why we didn’t have any printing experience internally,” said Ralph Moldan, Technical Specialist at ZwissTex, as the system was being installed in their facility. “The only option was to find a system that would enable us to implement the areas in which we are active on the market easily and quickly, without requiring a lot of printing experience.”

One benefit of integrating Kornit technology into the ZwissTex production ecosystem: applying ink only where it is needed and seen, rather than to the full surface of each material. This translates to both reducing the company’s carbon footprint, and minimizing materials waste for a more cost-effective operation.

Prior to making the decision to invest in Kornit, ZwissTex conducted a series of tests and consultations, evaluating possible applications for different materials and engaging with their own key clients to ensure these finished products would meet their rigorous quality and durability standards. This included presenting Kornit-decorated samples at the Techtextil 2022 exhibition in Frankfurt.

Moldan found Kornit’s production capabilities opened new doors to customization of interior areas, a market that continues to grow. He anticipates this technology will create new opportunities with customers they could not reach previously, including new opportunities in sectors such as motor homes, airlines, and aircraft outfitters.