From the Sector

The StitchTogether National Seminar in Poland delivers the Warsaw Declaration to enhance social dialogue for the Polish textile industry

On 6 December 2024, social partners from the Polish textiles industry adopted the Warsaw Declaration, a joint commitment to work on the competitiveness of their industry. The declaration is the outcome of a 2 day meeting, organised under the EU co-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry. The meeting in Warsaw brought together representatives of the Polish textile industry, including employer associations, trade unions, education institutes and the government to discuss the future of the industry.

Poland has a long and proud tradition in textiles and clothing manufacturing, with 130,000 people employed in the sector, and 20,000 companies of which the vast majority are SMEs. But the sector is struggling due to tough global competition and price pressures. In this context, the Polish textile and clothing social partners are united in ensuring the sector can successful face the digital and green transition, while remaining competitive and resilient, with decent jobs for all.

The Warsaw Declaration includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together, but asking support of the Polish government to upgrade industrial strategies, making the textile industry more attractive with a qualified and trained workforce.

“In times of transition social dialogue is more vital than ever, employers and trade unions need to work together to anticipate the change and prepare for the future in this case to more sustainable textiles and clothing production in Poland. It is essential that the transition is a Just Transition that leaves no worker behind, and we want the transition to safeguard jobs in the sector and create new jobs, which must be decent jobs with decent pay. The transition requires support and we call on the Polish government to work with the social partners for a new sectoral industrial policy to support the sector and good industrial jobs,’’ says Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “the incoming Polish presidency of the EU is a unique opportunity to shape a Clean Industrial Deal that will strengthen the competitiveness of our companies. As our Polish textile companies clearly expressed during the event, they want to see changes on the energy costs and fair competition, instead of adding new regulations.”

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, announces a significant milestone in its partnership with C.P.L. Prodotti Chimici srl, a renowned supplier of chemical products for the textile industry. LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, a by-product of pulp production, is at the center of this collaboration. Oniverse, which also owns the renowned fashion brand Calzedonia, will use LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased for dyeing textiles in the future.

Lenzing has always developed solutions together with partners to meet the industry's requirements for a circular economy. The strategic partnerships with C.P.L., the first licensing partner for LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, and Oniverse underline the trust of customers in Lenzing's biorefinery products. In addition, Lenzing enables improved visibility of its own products for partners and customers through co-branding, whether in the textile and nonwovens sector or in the biorefinery product portfolio.

The biorefinery process at Lenzing makes optimal use of the renewable raw material wood, the starting material for pulp and fiber production, and converts it into valuable products such as bio-based acetic acid. LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, which has a carbon footprint that is more than 85 percent lower than fossil-based acetic acid, is used in the food, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, chemical and textile industries and in processes in the textile sector, such as washing, dyeing and finishing.

Inspired by Inditex, the CHT Group developed PIGMENTURA by CHT, an innovative and sustainable pigment-based dyeing process that reduces water consumption in the dyeing process by up to 96 % and 60 % of energy compared to other continuous dyeing processes.

On December 2nd, 2024 the pigment-based dyeing process PIGMENTURA of CHT Germany GmbH was awarded with the German Ecodesign Award in the Product category.

The German Ecodesign Award honors designers, companies and students from Germany and Europe whose work make an important contribution to the sustainable transformation of the German economy and society. The award has been granted annually since 2012 by the German Ministry for the Environment and the German Environment Agency in cooperation with the International Design Center Berlin.

Dr. Annegret Vester, Chief Sustainability Officer at CHT, about PIGMENTURA:
“PIGMENTURA is an example of how completely new processes can be developed when existing processes are being rethought: The starting point was traditional pigment dyeing where the pigments have to be “bound” to the textile using special components. PIGMENTURA follows the idea of adsorbing pigments on the surface and thus simplifying the process.

It was a highlight when it became clear what great savings potential can be achieved in the dyeing process with PIGMENTURA. The classic reactive dyeing of textiles is associated with very high energy and water consumption.

There were numerous obstacles to overcome during the development phase, as each individual process step had to be developed to process maturity. Added to this is the diversity of textiles, which leads to significant changes in dyeing behavior, which we have now been able to standardize with PIGMENTURA.“

PIGMENTURA by CHT is already in use in the fashion industry worldwide.

On December 4, 2024 Borealis proudly announced the winners of the Borealis Scientific Innovation Award 2024 (BSIA) at the Borealis Innovation Day in Linz, Austria.

As a global industry leader, Borealis is rewarding pioneering ideas since 2008 with the Borealis Scientific Innovation Award, celebrating groundbreaking innovations with the potential to impact the world. This year’s focus was on new solutions for the environmentally sustainable production and use of plastics.

Innovative thinkers from the professional and academic scientific communities, entrepreneurs, start-ups, and university researchers were invited to submit their ideas. The winners were selected by a panel from Borealis' research team, who meticulously evaluated all submissions.

This year, submissions were accepted in the following key areas:

• New catalysts for sustainable production
• Energy-efficient polymerization processes
• Recycling of polymers
• Polymeric materials for energy transition

Winners of the 2024 Borealis Scientific Innovation Award 2024:

• First place: Clement Collins Rice (University of Oxford, UK) “Towards designer polyolefins: highly tuneable olefin copolymerisation using a single permethyl-indenyl post-metallocene Catalyst”
• Second place: Elisabetta Carrieri (Ghent University, Belgium) “Development of a solvent based recycling process for agricultural film”
• Third place: Esun Selvam (University of Delaware, USA) “Recycling polyolefin plastic waste at short contact times via rapid joule heating”

In addition to receiving monetary prizes, the winners were invited to the Borealis Innovation Headquarters in Linz, Austria, where they participated in the award ceremony during the Borealis Innovation Day 2024.  

The next call for applications for the BSIA will start in spring 2025.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will present its full range of high- performance materials for footwear at Inspiramais on January 21st and 22nd, 2025 in Porto Alegre, Brazil. The global leading manufacturer of performance materials will highlight its latest technical and sustainable innovations tailored for the shoe industry, including microfibers, counterliners, liners, interlinings, reinforcements, insoles, and membranes. At Inspiramais, designers and footwear professionals can meet with Brazil-based Freudenberg experts to support them design and develop products in line with the industry's evolving demands for performance and environmental responsibility.

Freudenberg’s presentation at the event underscores its commitment to innovation and sustainability within the industry. In line with its sustainability goals, Freudenberg has increased the proportion of products in its portfolio that incorporate recycled content and employ solvent-free and binder-free manufacturing processes. The company's efforts are exemplified by its range of vamp liners, reinforcements, and strobel insoles, which contain between 35% to 100% recycled material. The new insoles and reinforcements for sports shoes have recycled fiber content and provide high tensile and tear resistance at the same time.

Vegan suede
Additionally, Freudenberg is introducing a solvent-free vegan suede material, crafted from microfiber nonwovens, which offers both breathability and versatility in dyeing—a suitable choice for upper and facing in casual and athletic shoes.

Innovations for safety shoes and others
Freudenberg's advancements also extend to the realm of safety footwear, with the introduction of specialized insoles that are resistant to perforation and suitable for PU injection, as well as electrically conductive. Moreover, the company has developed breathable waterproof membranes that can be integrated into liners and interliners, enhancing both comfort and protection for safety shoes, boots, and waterproof footwear.

The company's new range of high performance counterliners is another highlight, designed to cater to a diverse array of footwear categories, including women's, men's, children's, safety shoes, boots, and athletic shoes. These counterliners are distinguished by their breathability, color variety, and superior abrasion resistance.

In cotton cultivation, soil quality and the associated fertility and health of the soil play a key role. For this reason, the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) in Washington has carried out an ambitious research project on this topic in collaboration with various international partner organisations – with promising results.

New and old methods
Soil health has long been the focus of agriculture and therefore also of cotton cultivation. The International Cotton Advisory Committee has repeatedly emphasised the importance of soil health for cotton farming in the past. The focus was particularly on the situation in developing countries, where yields are still low compared to those in developed countries. An ICAC team has now developed a special programme to improve soil health, based on studies by international research teams and practical experience. The aim is to help cotton producers to achieve better, higher quality crop yields in healthy soil and, at the same time, contribute to climate protection with traditional, sustainable agricultural methods for soil cultivation that have been used for years. Valuable biomaterials are produced using various composting and fermentation methods.

The building blocks of soil improvement
Biochar, bokashi and jeevamrit are important components of proven methods for soil improvement. All three are seen as beneficial products for promoting sustainable agricultural practices. They are inexpensive to produce and, when combined and mixed, they offer effective solutions for restoring degraded, i.e. quality-reduced soils of varying consistency. This is a constant challenge, especially in African regions.

Biochar
Following the recommendations of the ICAC, biochar is produced using the ‘Cone Pit Open-Earth Kiln’ technique. This involves burning the cotton stalks left over from the harvest.
The production of biochar is rooted in history: evidence shows that indigenous peoples in the Amazon used a form called ‘terra preta’ to enrich the soil over 1,000 years ago. In modern-day agriculture, the use of biochar has been rapidly gaining momentum over the last ten years. Africa in particular has seen a significant increase. The ICAC team discovered that biochar is particularly useful for improving acidic soils due to its high pH value (8.0 to 11.0). However, in neutral and alkaline soils, biochar can increase the pH of the soil, potentially leading to lower yields. To counteract this, the ICAC team recommends mixing biochar with bokashi compost.

Bokashi
Bokashi is a type of compost originating from Japan that is traditionally produced through a fermentation process using kitchen waste, agricultural residues and effective microorganisms. Bokashi has a highly acidic pH value of 3.5, which makes it an ideal material for balancing the alkalinity of biochar. According to the ICAC, combining biochar with bokashi compost in the right ratios can result in a balanced soil pH of around 6.5, which is ideal for most plants. This method not only neutralises the pH value of the biochar, but also provides essential nutrients for soil organisms and plants.

Jeevamrit
To further improve soil quality where necessary, the ICAC team introduced jeevamrit. Jeevamrit is a traditional Indian method that provides soils with a variety of microorganisms. The production of jeevamrit, which involves processing cow dung and sugarcane molasses, provides a rich source of beneficial microbes that improve nutrient availability and promote soil regeneration.

When biochar, bokashi and jeevamrit are combined, they form the basis for regenerative agriculture. Studies show that biochar improves soil structure, bokashi provides nutrients and jeevamrit promotes microbial diversity, leading to healthier soils, increased productivity and sustainability in agriculture.

Training initiatives promote knowledge
Over the past three years, training courses on regenerative agriculture have been held in Africa, India and Bangladesh. A total of 16 organisations were involved. The training focused on three main technologies: bokashi composting, the ICAC practices for biochar production and jeevamrit for inoculating soils with a variety of soil microbes. The programmes have made the production techniques accessible to smallholder farmers in particular, leading to widespread adoption and improved soil quality.

This year, Eastman and its innovative Naia™ cellulosic fibers have earned again the dark green shirt designation in the Canopy Hot Button Ranking and Report, underscoring the steadfast commitment to protecting ancient and endangered forests while driving innovation in Next Generation fiber solutions.

With “buttons” being used in the report as a measure of MMCF producers sustainability performance across seven critical categories, Eastman maintained a score of 30 buttons for the sustainable production of Naia™ cellulosic fibers. This recognition has been consistently reconfirmed since 2022, after Eastman’s first light green designation in 2019, reflecting their ongoing efforts to prioritize sustainable raw material sourcing, low-impact production processes, and fiber innovation that comes with a lighter impact on the planet.
The Naia™ Renew portfolio, including the Naia™ Renew ES, has also been a cornerstone of this success. Already available at scale, Naia™ Renew ES is created from a blend of 40% certified recycled waste materials, 20% certified recycled cellulose, and 40% sustainably sourced wood pulp. This innovative fiber has become a preferred choice for sustainability-driven brands like Reformation which has already launched its 2nd collection and is gaining increasing traction in retail markets worldwide.

By investing in cutting-edge technologies and industry collaboration, Eastman is redefining what is possible in sustainable fiber innovation. The company remains committed to advancing its mission of creating high-quality, eco-conscious solutions that support the well-being of the planet, industry workers, and consumers alike.

An EU-wide project of ECHA’s Enforcement Forum found that 35 % of the checked safety data sheets (SDS) were non-compliant. Compliance has improved compared to earlier enforcement projects, but more efforts are needed to further enhance the quality of information to better protect workers, professional users and the environment from risks posed by hazardous chemicals.

Inspectors in 28 EU-EEA countries checked over 2,500 safety data sheets (SDS) to enforce the new requirements introduced in 2023. The primary goal was to check whether the SDS were complete, up-to-date and included all the required information, especially the new information required. Second objective was to check the quality of the information, its consistency and compliance with the legal requirements.

Inspectors found that 35% of the inspected SDS did not comply with the legislation – either because the content did not meet the requirements or the safety data sheet was not provided at all.

It was also found by inspectors that the flow of SDS in the supply chain works well – suppliers provided the SDS to the recipients when required in 96 % of the cases. Additionally, most of the 2,500 SDS were updated to the new format.

Among the new information requirements, the biggest challenge was the lack of information on nanoforms and on endocrine disrupting properties, missing respectively in 67 % and 48 % of the checked SDS where it was required. Another relevant finding was that some of the SDS (16 %) lacked the information required by the authorisation decisions.

The Forum project also reported deficiencies in data quality for 27 % of the inspected SDS. Common issues included incorrect information on hazard identification, composition or exposure control. Additionally, 18 % of the checked SDSs lacked the required exposure scenarios.

Enforcement actions
To address non-compliance, inspectors primarily issued written advice, but also used administrative orders, fines and, in some cases, filed criminal complaints.

Abdulqadir Suleiman, chair of the Enforcement Forum’s working group, said:
“In recent years, inspectors have observed improvements in the compliance of chemicals suppliers with their obligation to provide up-to-date safety data sheets. These compliance improvements could be attributed to the harmonised requirements of REACH, great efforts by the industry, continued focus by enforcement authorities, but also the dialogue between enforcement and stakeholder organisations about improving the quality of safety data sheets held some years back.

“However, there is still work to be done to enhance the quality of the information to ensure better protection of the European workers who are handling hazardous chemicals in the workplace.”

Background
SDS are used by chemical suppliers to provide their professional and industrial customers with information about the properties and risks of the chemicals and how to handle, store, use and dispose them safely. The SDS are critical to the protection of workers. They should be used by employers, or health and safety professionals of the downstream users, for carrying out chemical risk assessments in the workplace, required under the Occupational Health and Safety legislation.
This project followed an update to the safety data sheet requirements that have been in force since 2023. The SDS must now include information on nanoforms, endocrine disrupting properties, conditions of authorisation, UFI codes, acute toxicity estimates, specific concentration limits and several other parameters that help to handle chemicals safely. This change in legal requirements necessitated an update of all the SDS to include new information.

In addition to checking the data relevant to the new requirements, inspectors also checked the quality and correctness of the information included in many of the safety data sheet sections.

The inspections of this enforcement project were conducted between January and December 2023 in 28 EEA countries.

RUDOLF announced the formal signing of a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) to acquire Proeza in Mexico. This strategic acquisition will allow RUDOLF to leverage Proeza‘s established strengths and extensive market presence. With approx. 2,000 employees in 45 countries, RUDOLF provides logistical and technical support to its
customers worldwide.

RUDOLF is committed to maintain the exceptional level of service and quality products that Proeza’s customers have come to rely on. Rudolf is looking forward to introduc a range of innovative products from their portfolio to expand the product offering and drive innovation.

Proeza has built a strong reputation over its 40 years in the industry and Rudolf wants to build on this legacy. To ensure seamless integration and local expertise, Mr Javier Sagrero has been appointed as the new Managing Director of RUDOLF Mexico.

UMAC, a member of the EREMA Group, is expanding its ReadyMac product line with a new 60 hertz version. This means that the immediately available plastics recycling solution can now be deployed worldwide. The standardised machine with its particularly attractive price-performance ratio will be presented in its new look for the first time at Plast Eurasia from 4-7 December 2024 in Istanbul.
    
The ReadyMac celebrated its market launch at K 2022. The recycling system, which is produced in stock and therefore available at short notice, has since established itself successfully in the 50 hertz version, particularly on the European market. Based on this success, UMAC is now also offering the ReadyMac 500 in a 60 hertz version. "The ReadyMac is suitable for a wide range of materials and degrees of contamination, processing film, flakes and regrind into high-quality recycled pellets. The fixed price of just EUR 375,000 makes it an attractive proposition," says Michael Köhnhofer, Site Manager at UMAC. The machine is produced in small series at the St. Marien site.

The ReadyMac is based on EREMA's proven TVE technology, in which degassing occurs after filtration. Equipped with a robust SW RTF® screen changer filtration system, the recycling machine processes both printed and contaminated waste. The multipurpose screw handles a wide range of materials efficiently and reliably. With a throughput of up to 500 kg/h for LDPE, LLDPE, MDPE, PP, PS, PC, ABS and up to 450 kg/h for HDPE, the ReadyMac 500 is a true all-rounder. In addition, the two frequency converters on the main drives (preconditioning unit and extruder screw) ensure consistently high throughputs and quality for a wide variety of material types, such as regrind, film or nonwoven, even without changing the screw. This enhances both flexibility and productivity. The frequency converters are now included as standard with the ReadyMac.