From the Sector

Die Schlussanträge des Generalanwalts beim Europäischen Gerichtshof sind ein Schritt in die richtige Richtung, die Kompetenzüberschreitung der EU im Rahmen der Mindestlohn-Richtlinie auszubremsen.

Mit der „Richtlinie über angemessene Mindestlöhne in der Europäischen Union“ wollte die EU einen europaweiten Rahmen schaffen. Die im Oktober 2022 vom Rat angenommene Richtlinie steht nun auf dem Prüfstand. Dänemark fordert mit der Unterstützung Schwedens die Erklärung der Nichtigkeit, weil das Arbeitsentgelt laut Art. 153 Abs. 5 des Vertrags über die Arbeitsweise der Europäischen Union (AEUV) explizit aus dem Zuständigkeitsbereich der EU ausgenommen ist. Dieser Argumentation schließt sich Nicholas Emiliou, Generalanwalt beim Europäischen Gerichtshof, in seinen am 14. Januar vorgelegten Schlussanträgen an. Diese Einschätzung dient dem Europäischen Gerichtshof als Entscheidungsgrundlage.

Südwesttextil begrüßt die Bestätigung der Einschätzung, die viele Arbeitgeberverbände bereits im Zuge des Gesetzgebungsverfahrens vorgebracht hatten. Hauptgeschäftsführerin Edina Brenner betont: „Europäische Richtlinien und Verordnungen dürfen nicht über den klar definierten Zuständigkeitsbereich hinausgehen. Die Mindestlohn-Richtlinie ist in Deutschland bereits politisch als Begründung für die Beeinflussung der unabhängigen Mindestlohnkommission genutzt worden. Die Abwägung über Erhöhungen obliegt in Deutschland den Sozialpartnern, sodass regulatorische staatliche Eingriffe nicht erforderlich sind.“

According to Fashion for Good, 2025 marks a turning point for the fashion industry, where innovation and sustainability are more crucial than ever. From addressing the intricate challenges of circular footwear design to redefining the resilience of global supply chains, the industry faces both immense tasks and transformative opportunities.

Here are their six pivotal shifts shaping fashion’s future in 2025:

Footwear's Innovation Sprint
Footwear is emerging as fashion’s next big frontier for innovation, ready to match the advancements seen in apparel. Yet, it faces its own set of challenges in achieving circular design. Traditional shoe construction—reliant on complex material blends and adhesives—has long hindered recycling efforts. But 2025 holds promise. A wave of breakthroughs in sustainable materials and manufacturing techniques is on the horizon, led by both established players and bold startups. Together, they’re redefining what’s possible, paving the way for scalable circular footwear.
 
Regional Circularity Takes Center Stage
The future of materials is accelerating, with innovators urgently seeking access to recycled feedstock. Regional sourcing and recycling hubs are becoming pivotal, as the industry builds networks capable of scaling circular solutions. By moving beyond pilot programs, brands are making tangible strides toward robust supply chains that meet both legislative demands and consumer expectations for sustainability.
 
Hard Tech Investment Shifting
Investments in hard tech and innovation within the fashion industry will face a nuanced landscape in 2025. The tightening of venture funding will necessitate greater discipline among startups. Only those who effectively validate their minimum viable products (MVPs) and manage cash judiciously will thrive. This period of consolidation and selective investment presents opportunities for the most prepared innovators to capitalise on market shifts while adapting to evolving investor priorities.
 
The Waste Crackdown
Zero-waste is no longer a lofty ambition—it’s becoming a necessity. With stricter legislation reshaping the landscape, the fashion industry is innovating rapidly to tackle its waste challenges. From advanced materials recovery systems to AI-powered sorting technologies, the industry is racing to adapt. As the resale market is projected to grow, the drive for waste reduction is unlocking new opportunities for impact.
 
Decarbonisation Reality Check
As the industry grapples with missed targets, 2025 will see an intensified push for collective action, with mounting pressure on suppliers to accelerate green transitions. Success will depend on deep collaboration—between brands, local governments, and cross-sector coalitions—especially in manufacturing regions where grid transformation remains critical. The journey is complex, but the shared commitment to decarbonisation is stronger than ever.
 
Supply Chain Geopolitics 2.0
Investment in other manufacturing markets is accelerating as brands seek alternatives to China. But this isn't simple nearshoring - it's about strategic diversification and building resilient regional networks. The focus is shifting to developing new manufacturing ecosystems that can support both traditional and circular production models.

Heimtextil kicks off the new trade fair year with over 3,000 exhibitors from 65 countries. At the opening, architect and designer Patricia Urquiola presented her installation ‘among-us’ at Heimtextil.

“The steady growth and the very high level of internationality confirm the strength of Heimtextil. As leading international trade fair for home and contract textiles and textile design, it is an indispensable partner for the global industry – this is more important today than ever before. Especially in challenging times, Heimtextil offers companies the opportunity to strengthen their market position: through international visibility, the identification and realisation of potential and the development of new global business partners”, says Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board of Messe Frankfurt.

Visitors to the leading trade fair for home and contract textiles find a globally unique range of products on 16 hall levels. This spans from wallpapers, upholstery fabrics, mattresses and sleep systems, towelling products, textile designs, fibres and yarns to carpets. The Carpets & Rugs area counts three times as many exhibitors in 2025 and is growing by several hall levels.  

The Heimtextil Trends 25/26, curated for the first time by the Milan-based design platform Alcova, offer inspiration and sustainable solutions. In the Trend Arena in Hall 3.0, they are spectacularly staged. They are looking at material qualities, colours and innovative production processes.

The content programme covers the most important industry topics. It addresses different visitor groups – from retailers, wholesalers, industry, designers, furniture and bedding shops, interior architects, interior designers, architects, contract furnishers and many other decision-makers. At the Retail Stage in Hall 12.1, topics ranging from sleep and sustainability to AI in retail and optimising the customer experience are being highlighted. The Texpertise Stage in Hall 4.0 focuses on materials for contract furnishings, trends in hotel design, carpets and the Heimtextil Trends 25/26.

Installation by Patricia Urquiola: design concepts for retail and hospitality
At the Heimtextil opening press conference, star designer and architect Patricia Urquiola presented her design installation ‘among-us’ in Hall 12.0. The area contains products made specially for Heimtextil. For example, a hanging carpet created by the traditional dhurrie technique. Patricia Urquiola developed the unique pieces together with partners such as Kettal, Moroso, cc-tapis, Aquafil and Cimento®. Embedded in the installation, they show retail and hospitality the possibilities opened up by the textile design of tomorrow. Patricia Urquiola emphasises holistically designed rooms and objects, living areas that merge seamlessly as well as materiality and versatility.

“‘among-us’ is a convivial and intuitive textile installation that shows the evolving possibilities of textiles, exploring their hybrid potentials across various scales – from product design to one/off pieces. The title, among-us, refers to the concept of being together and reflects the intent of the installation to celebrate hybrid new relations”, explains Patricia Urquiola.

In ‘among-us’, physical and virtual worlds merge through a grid on the floor inspired by drafting software. At the centre are textile elements in abstract and organic forms such as a sofa or an upholstered sculpture. They demonstrate the interplay of materials and technologies. Screens show their virtual counterparts and encourage interaction. At the same time, ‘among-us’ shows how textile innovations influence design processes. Textiles combine functionality, aesthetics and sustainability and create unique possibilities. The installation also shows how traditional craftsmanship can be integrated into the design of spaces and products.

Der internationale Technologiekonzern ANDRITZ hat zwei neue Refiner- und Kotonisierungslinien an Van Robaeys, Frankreich, geliefert und in Betrieb genommen. Die maßgeschneiderten teXline-Anlagen ermöglichen es dem Unternehmen, die Produktion von Textilfasern aus Flachs zu steigern. Das Familienunternehmen Van Robaeys stellt das Flachsfasern für die Spinnereiindustrie her. Sein Know-how in der Flachsverarbeitung reicht bis ins Jahr 1919 zurück.

Mit der Errichtung der neuen Linien reagiert Van Robaeys auf die zunehmende Nachfrage des französischen Marktes nach hochwertigen baumwollartigen Textilfasern aus natürlichen Rohstoffen. Europa ist der weltweit größte Produzent von Flachsfasern und verzeichnete zwischen 2010 und 2020 einen Anstieg der Flachsanbauflächen um 133%.

ANDRITZ-teXline-Bastfaser-Linien können bis zu 800 kg Fasern pro Stunde verarbeiten und sind mit modernsten Anlagen ausgestattet, die ein hohes Maß an Flexibilität in der gesamten Faserverarbeitung gewährleisten.

Bei den nun gelieferten Anlagen handelt es sich um die siebente und achte ANDRITZ-Kotonisierungslinie für Van Robaeys, wobei die erste schon seit 50 Jahren in Betrieb ist. Die jüngste Investition unterstützt die Bemühungen des Unternehmens um eine nachhaltige und abfallfreie Faserproduktion.

The Middle East’s industrial sector is synonymous with high-risk environments, particularly in oil and gas production. Workers face hazards such as flash fires, chemical splashes and electric arcs—all within the context of demanding conditions, including sweltering heat and long shifts. In response to these challenges, flame-retardant (FR) fabrics with stretch properties are emerging as the next generation of protective workwear, delivering comfort, safety and durability.

Traditionally, FR fabrics prioritised protection over comfort. However, the increasing demand for ergonomic clothing has driven a shift towards stretch solutions. Thanks to innovations in textile engineering and the influence of modern fashion, these fabrics now combine unparalleled flexibility with the stringent safety standards required in high-risk industries.

Stretch fabrics such as Carrington Textiles’ Flametougher 290AS Flex and Flameflex 300AS demonstrate how this transition is not just a luxury but a necessity. Flametougher 290AS Flex, for example, incorporates 19.5% CORDURA® nylon 6,6 for exceptional durability and strength, blended with 78% cotton for lightweight comfort. At just 290gsm, it ensures workers maintain mobility without compromising on protection.

Meeting the needs of Middle Eastern workers, Flameflex 300AS, weighing 300gsm, provides a perfect balance of durability, flexibility and flame resistance. Its 83% cotton and 14% polyester composition ensures longevity, while 2% EOL fibres enable enhanced elasticity—critical for workers in physically intensive roles such as oil rig operations or refinery maintenance.

Flexibility in workwear isn’t just a matter of comfort, it’s a matter of safety. Restricted movement can lead to fatigue, reduced compliance with safety standards and accidents. Stretch FR fabrics excel in adaptability. Whether it’s a worker scaling scaffolding on an oil platform or handling maintenance in a petrochemical plant, garments made with stretch FR textiles allow for the unrestricted movement critical to performing tasks safely.

The rise of these type of fabrics also owes much to the fashion industry. Decades of innovation in stretch garments for everyday use have created a ripple effect in workwear. Workers increasingly expect the same level of comfort and fit in their protective clothing, and manufacturers are responding.

Kornit Digital LTD. engaged in sustainable, on-demand digital fashion and textile production technologies, will unveil its transformative home décor solutions at the world’s largest trade fair for home textiles, Heimtextil 2025. The Company will present a furniture collection in collaboration with the prestigious Israeli brand Niso Furniture.

The collaboration will feature a fully designed living room concept, showcasing sofas, armchairs, a dining table, and curtains—all created using Kornit’s digital printing systems. This collection will highlight how Kornit’s technology enables designers and manufacturers to transform spaces with infinite customization options, delivering premium-quality, sustainable products on demand.

Kornit’s approach offers a unique ecosystem that supports a virtual-first supply chain, eliminating inventory and waste by producing only what’s needed, when it’s needed. The collection demonstrates the flexibility to print on a wide variety of fabrics—naturals, synthetics, and blends—using a single ink set, ensuring a seamless design process across multiple materials and applications. Visitors to the Kornit booth will witness firsthand how this technology empowers personalization and creativity while achieving superior speed and sustainability.

“This partnership with Niso Furniture embodies the digital transformation sweeping through the textile and furniture industries,” said Chris Govier, EVP Strategic Growth and Marketing at Kornit Digital. “Together, we are creating a new paradigm for home décor—one where creativity, sustainability, and agility converge. Heimtextil 2025 is the ideal platform to showcase how Kornit’s demand-before-supply model enables designers and businesses to deliver unique, high-quality pieces while transforming traditional supply chains. We’re excited to engage with industry leaders, customers, and partners as we shape the future of home décor.”

Leon Edot, co-owner of Niso Furniture, echoed this sentiment: “Our collaboration with Kornit Digital reflects our shared vision of combining creativity and technology to redefine furniture design. The collection we’ve created represents a new era in home décor, where innovation knows no boundaries. We’re proud to represent Israeli ingenuity on this global stage and to showcase our ability to inspire and lead in design and technology.”

Die ENKA GmbH & Co. KG, Hersteller endloser Viskosegarne, verabschiedet sich von der Herstellung von Chemiefasern. Geplant ist, die Produktion am Standort Obernburg nach nahezu einem Jahrhundert erfolgreicher Tätigkeit im Laufe der nächsten Monate zu beenden und, sobald keine bestehenden Aufträge mehr abzuarbeiten sind, den Betrieb stillzulegen. Der gesamte Prozess wird in mehreren Stufen ablaufen und voraussichtlich bis Ende September 2025 abgeschlossen sein.

Stilllegung unvermeidlich
Das Ende der Produktion in Obernburg, so die Enka-Geschäftsführung, sei die unvermeidliche Folge des intensiven Wettbewerbes auf einem Weltmarkt für Viskoseprodukte, der von indischen und insbesondere chinesischen Herstellern dominiert werde. Diese produzierten Viskose zu deutlich geringeren Kosten, aufgrund größerer Fabriken mit Effizienzvorteilen, niedrigeren Löhnen, staatlichen Subventionen und deutlich geringeren Umweltauflagen.

„Diese ungleichen Wettbewerbsbedingungen führen seit mehreren Jahrzehnten zu einem erheblichen Rückgang der Auftrags- und der Produktionsmengen bei ENKA. In den zurückliegenden 18 Monaten hat sich dieser Trend nochmals dramatisch verstärkt. Insbesondere die in den letzten Jahren deutlich gestiegenen Energiekosten haben zu einer zusätzlichen wirtschaftlichen Belastung geführt und dadurch den Kostendruck auf die Produktion noch einmal erheblich erhöht“, sagt Dr. Till Boldt, Geschäftsführer bei ENKA. „Auch wenn sich ENKA seit Jahrzehnten intensiv mit verschiedenen Maßnahmen zur Senkung der Kosten und zur Steigerung der Effizienz in der Produktion gegen diesen Trend gestemmt hat, machen diese Marktveränderungen eine wirtschaftliche Fortführung der Produktion unmöglich.“

Im Sinne der Kunden und Zulieferer wird die Produktion schrittweise reduziert, um alle bestehenden Lieferverträge zu erfüllen. Dabei wird insbesondere Rücksicht auf die am Standort Obernburg ansässigen Zulieferer und Geschäftspartner genommen, um deren Fortbestand und den Erhalt des Industriestandorts zu unterstützen. „Hierzu führen wir partnerschaftliche Verhandlungen, um faire und nachhaltige Lösungen für alle an der Stilllegung Beteiligten zu finden“, sagt Dr. Boldt. Der gesamte Prozess, der mit der schrittweisen Reduktion beginnt, soll bis September 2025 abgeschlossen werden.

Geordneter Prozess im Interesse von Mitarbeitenden und Geschäftspartner
Die ENKA GmbH & Co. KG legt großen Wert darauf, den Prozess der Stilllegung geordnet und in Abstimmung mit allen Beteiligten transparent und fair zu gestalten. „Die ENKA bleibt bis zuletzt ein verlässlicher Arbeitgeber, ein vertrauenswürdiger Lieferant unserer Kunden sowie ein fairer Geschäftspartner für unsere Lieferanten und Partner am Standort Obernburg“, betont Menrath.

Die 237 Arbeitsverhältnisse sollen gemäß den bestehenden Kündigungsfristen erfüllt werden. Darüber hinaus ist geplant, dass alle Arbeitnehmerinnen und Arbeitnehmer Abfindungen im Rahmen eines Sozialplans erhalten. ENKA werde dafür Sorge tragen, dass sämtliche tariflichen Bestimmungen bis zum letzten Tag eingehalten werden. „Unser besonderer Dank gilt den Mitarbeitern, die in den vergangenen Jahrzehnten bereit waren, erhebliche Einschränkungen im Tariflohn und in der tariflichen Arbeitszeit zu akzeptieren, um den Betrieb am Standort Obernburg aufrechtzuerhalten. Diese Solidarität und Loyalität verdienen höchsten Respekt und Anerkennung“, sagt Geschäftsführer Menrath.

„Wir möchten unseren Abschied von Obernburg mit größtem Respekt vor allen Beteiligten gestalten. Die Entscheidung, die Produktion in Obernburg zu beenden, fällt uns außerordentlich schwer. Die Viskoseproduktion war über fast ein Jahrhundert hinweg ein Herzstück des Standorts Obernburg und der Stolz unserer Mitarbeiter. Doch die wirtschaftlichen Rahmenbedingungen zwingen uns, diesen Weg zu gehen. Unsere oberste Priorität ist es nun, die Stilllegung geordnet und verantwortungsvoll umzusetzen“, sagt ENKA-Geschäftsführer Wolfgang Menrath.

From 3 to 5 September, Cinte Techtextil China will return to the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, with new features capitalising on market growth. In addition to its regular European Zone, the upcoming edition will launch two product zones, namely the Medtech & Protech Zone and the Mobiltech Zone, alongside other precisely crafted features.

With innovation and sustainability at its heart, the fair’s fringe programme will include events such as Econogy Talks, an innovative product showcase and other themed conferences and presentations, maximising promotion and information exchange between fairgoers.

“As the largest global organiser of textile trade fairs, pairing the strength of Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network to market needs as global economies evolve, is key to Cinte Techtextil China’s long-term growth,” said Ms Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. “These new zones have been created strategically, allowing us to expand on under-utilised opportunities for exhibitors and visitors in high-potential technical textile and nonwoven sub-sectors, as well as steering the industry towards an innovative and sustainable future.”

No longer an initiative but a prevailing commitment, sustainability has opened up new possibilities for technical textile and nonwoven development. Speaking at the 2024 edition, Mr Lin Yang, Sales Department Minister of Nihon Glass Fiber Industrial Co., Ltd. commented: “The sustainability trend has fostered the robust growth of new energy vehicles and in turn the automotive interior material businesses. Under the global eco-trend, green application will become the core development of automotive textiles, with more and more car manufacturers applying functional fibres to make automotive materials more durable, anti-high-energy radiation and so on.”

A few booths away, Mr Denis Wallrafen, Sales Manager of Reifenhäuser Enka Tecnica, also referred to sustainability as “the rule for success”, saying that the company has “developed an innovative, cost-effective method for refurbishing spunbond and meltblown spinnerets without compromising quality, with the same excellent performance of a new spinneret.”

Sustainability and innovation will again be strong focuses for Cinte Techtextil China in 2025, as will its propensity to bridge gaps between Asian and Western markets. Speaking at the previous edition, which attracted nearly 17,000 visits from 77 countries and regions, Mr Kabilen Sornum, Vice President Asia Pacific of Marketing & E-Commerce at Groz-Beckert East Asia said: “As one of the most important fairs for us in China, Cinte Techtextil China covers the domestic market, while we also receive a lot of international visitors here, allowing us to exchange ideas and gain market insights. As China is a very big market, very often we sell directly and indirectly to them during the fair, where all our users come together.”

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

Cinte Techtextil China will be held from 3 – 5 September 2025.

The fair is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA).

A Study Dissemination on ‘Assessment of Technological Transition in the Apparel Sector of Bangladesh and Its Impact on Workers’ has arranged by Bangladesh Labour Foundation (BLF), Solidaridad Network Asia & Brac University.

Automation had led to a 30.58% decline in the total workforce across production processes in the ready-made garment (RMG) sector with the majority of the displaced workers being helpers, according to the study.

While automation has boosted economic growth and productivity in the sector, it has simultaneously created significant challenges for RMG workers—especially women, older employees, less literate individuals, and those lacking skills or confidence.

The sweater factory subsector experienced the highest workforce reduction, with a 37.03% decline per production line, followed by woven factories, which saw a 27.23% drop. In terms of specific production processes, the cutting stage showed the most pronounced reduction, with a 48.34% decrease in workers, whereas the sewing process experienced a comparatively smaller decline of 26.57%.

The findings emphasize the urgent need to address “Just Transition” issues, which aim to balance economic advancement with equitable outcomes for displaced workers, as highlighted in the study’s executive summary.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, has opened the registration for the IDEA®25 International Conference and Exhibition on April 29-May 1, 2025, at the Miami Beach Convention Center in Florida.

For the first time at IDEA, the two-day conference will be dedicated exclusively to sustainability, recognizing its critical importance to the nonwovens industry. The conference will bring together C-suite leaders, business development professionals, sustainability managers, product developers, regulatory teams, sales, and marketing to advance “Nonwovens for a Healthier Planet.”

The regional market overviews and company presentations that have previously been part of the conference program will be moved to the exhibition portion of IDEA, which will spotlight product innovations and solutions from leading companies across the industry.

Among the topics industry experts will explore in presentations and panel discussions at IDEA25 are:

• Regulations: Upcoming regulations in the U.S., European Union (EU), and the United Nations impacting sustainability efforts
• Product and Process Innovations: Sourcing sustainable materials featuring natural fibers, advances in biodegradability and compostability, and fiber-to-nonwoven recycling and Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) initiatives
• Circular Economy and Bio-Materials: Responsible sourcing, innovations in sustainability, and end-of-life solutions that reduce waste and lower energy consumption, leading to significant cost and resource savings

Details regarding the presenters and abstracts for the conference will be announced in the coming weeks.

IDEA25 Highlights
The IDEA® Achievement Awards, in partnership with Nonwovens Industry magazine, will be presented based on the results of online voting in six categories, including sustainability achievement.

The event will kick off on April 28th with training courses covering the essentials of nonwovens and market-focused areas, including a Nonwovens 101 short course on manufacturing nonwovens and advanced sessions on technical design and performance in baby and adult care absorbent systems, wet wipes, period products, and filter media training.

In conjunction with IDEA25, INDA also announced registration has opened for FiltXPO™ 2025, the International Filtration Conference and Exhibition, on April 29-May 1, 2025, at the Miami Beach Convention Center. For updates on both events, visit the INDA website.