From the Sector

Die Frankfurter Beteiligungsgesellschaft VR Equitypartner engagiert sich mit einer stillen Beteiligung beim Spezialisten für Damenhosen Angels GmbH („Angels“). Hintergrund ist die Übernahme von Angels durch Le Faxx Jeans mit Sitz in Istanbul.

Angels wurde 1980 im schwäbischen Nagold gegründet und gehört heute zu den führenden Herstellern von Jeans und Damenhosen in Deutschland. Das Unternehmen legt besonderen Wert auf passgenaue Schnitte, nachhaltige Materialien und eine hochwertige Verarbeitung. Das Hauptprodukt Denim-Jeans wird ausschließlich in Europa gefertigt. Bei einem Großteil der europaweit vertriebenen Textilien handelt es sich um modeunabhängige Never-out-of-Stock-Produkte. Durch den klaren Fokus auf die Modernisierung des Produkts und der Marke gelang es Angels, innerhalb weniger Jahre den Umsatz von knapp 30 Millionen Euro auf fast 50 Millionen Euro zu steigern.

Der langjährige Partner Le Faxx Jeans, ein etabliertes Familienunternehmen in der türkischen Textilindustrie mit über 600 Mitarbeitern, wird das Unternehmen nun übernehmen.

Der Zusammenschluss beider Unternehmen sichert das nachhaltige Wachstum und die Lieferfähigkeit von Angels bei gleichbleibend hohen Qualitätsstandards. Das Managementteam um Caspar Borkowsky, Geschäftsführer der Angels GmbH, bleibt unverändert und wird das weitere Wachstum des Unternehmens vorantreiben.

Devan, a global leader in sustainable textile finishes, launched an innovative sleep promoting technology, “Devan Sleep Tight”, at Heimtextil 2025. This technology enhances sleep quality and overall quality of life, as confirmed by an independent clinical trial.

Inspired by the global "Beauty Sleep" trend, Devan introduces its latest innovation in sleep wellness. The active ingredient is derived from an upcycled by-product of Australian Tea Tree oil. This active ingredient acts by two complementary pathways, inhalation and skin contact, to improve nighttime benefits and skin regeneration to provide a healthier looking skin and revitalized look by morning.

Designed for use in textiles such as bedding and sleepwear, the new solution aims to transform nightly rest into a rejuvenating ritual, perfectly aligning with modern consumers' desire for holistic self-care.

The technology boosts the melatonin action, reduces the production of ROS (reactive oxygen species), stimulates the production of antioxidant genes and protein and stimulates the collagen gene expression.

+97% Biobased microcapsules
The technology is based on microencapsulation. First the active ingredients are incapsulated. Next, the biobased microcapsules are applied to the textile. The treated textiles touch our skin and the capsules break due to friction between the body and the textile. The content of the biobased capsules is then released and absorbed by the skin, while the volatile components of the active ingredients are simultaneously inhaled.

The microcapsules are readily biodegradable (tested according to the OECD 301B guideline). Possible applications are pillows, bed sheets, bed accessories, sleepwear, ...

Clinical study
33 healthy female and male subjects, aged between 18 and 60 years, with sleep problems, were using a treated pillow cover with R-Vital NTL 10015 Sleep Tight every night for 30 days. Each subject was required to fill out the Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index and a quality of life (QoL) questionnaire, focused on the sleep quality, quality of life and overall well-being, before and after 30 days of using the respective product. The Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index (PSQI) is a scientifically validated tool widely used to reliably assess and measure sleep quality.

The data shows that after 30 days of using a pillow case treated with R-Vital NTL 10015, subjects experienced notable improvements in several key areas of sleep and quality of life. The most significant changes were seen in sleep quality, sleep latency, sleep disturbances, reduction of daytime dysfunction and quality of life.

Showcased at Heimtextil 2025 in Frankfurt
Devan’s Sleep Tight technology was prominently featured at Heimtextil in Frankfurt, both by Devan and several of its partners. Notable among them were Crispim Abreu Lda and Lameirinho, two Portuguese companies specializing in bed linen and sleepwear, as well as Naturtex from Hungary, a leading producer of quilts and pillows.

The first productions are already underway, ensuring the technology will be available on the market by the second quarter of 2025. These alliances empower Devan Sleep Tight to deliver unparalleled value to manufacturers, retailers and consumers alike.

Die Textilrecycler in Deutschland schlagen Alarm: Durch Fehlinterpretationen der seit dem 1. Januar 2025 geltenden Getrenntsammlungspflicht für Textilien, hervorgerufen durch missverständliche Darstellungen, wie jüngst vom Umweltbundesamt (UBA), entstehe eine reale Bedrohung für die bewährte textile Kreislaufwirtschaft in Deutschland. „Fehlerhafte Auslegungen gefährden nicht nur das etablierte Recycling-System, sondern drohen unsere Branche zum kostenlosen Müllentsorger zu degradieren“, warnt Stefan Voigt, bvse-Vizepräsident und Vorsitzender des Fachverbands Textilrecycling (FTR).

Ein jüngst veröffentlichter Kurzbeitrag des Umweltbundesamtes (UBA) über die Änderung im KrWG in Bezug auf die Alttextilsammlung suggeriere, dass unbrauchbare und verschmutzte Textilien im Sinne der Getrenntsammlungspflicht in bestehenden Altkleidersystemen und -Containern entsorgt werden könnten.

In einem Schreiben an den Präsidenten des Umweltbundesamtes warnt der bvse in dieser Woche eindringlich vor den negativen Konsequenzen einer solchen Auslegung der Gesetzeslage auf die textile Kreislaufwirtschaft in Deutschland und bat dringlichst um eine inhaltliche Überarbeitung seines interpretationsoffenen Beitrags.

Rechtliche Klarstellung erforderlich
„Eine falsch interpretierte Getrenntsammlungspflicht wird dazu führen, dass wertvolle Ressourcen durch Querkontamination zerstört werden und somit nicht mehr für die Zirkularität genutzt werden können“, erklärte bvse-Vizepräsident Stefan Voigt. „Eine nachhaltige und effiziente textile Kreislaufwirtschaft wird dadurch massiv gefährdet. Es bedarf klarer Regelungen, die unmissverständlich zwischen verwertbaren und nicht verwertbaren Textilien unterscheiden“, so Voigt weiter.

Im Kreislaufwirtschaftsgesetz wird die getrennte Sammlung von Abfällen so definiert, dass getrennte Sammlung eine Sammlung ist, bei der ein Abfallstrom nach Art und Beschaffenheit des Abfalls getrennt gehalten wird, um eine bestimmte Behandlung zu erleichtern oder zu ermöglichen.

„Stark verschmutzte oder nasse Alttextilien eignen sich weder für die Wiederverwendung noch für das Recycling und fallen damit nicht unter die Zieldefinition einer „bestimmten Behandlung“, wie sie das Gesetz vorsieht – und damit auch nicht in die bestehenden Sammelsysteme für Alttextilien. In Altkleidercontainer gehören nach wie vor ausschließlich trockene, verwendungsfähige Kleidung, Schuhe und Haushaltstextilien“, hob Voigt hervor.

Verschmutzte und nicht recyclingfähige Textilabfälle, Lumpen sowie Putzlappen gehören somit selbstverständlich weiter in die Restmülltonne und schlussendlich in die thermische Entsorgung. Kissen, Matratzen und Schaumstoffauflagen sind wie bisher über den Sperrmüll zu entsorgen.

Warnung vor dem Kollaps eines Vorzeigesystems
Der Fachverband Textilrecycling des bvse weist zudem darauf hin, dass das bestehende Sammelsystem für Alttextilien – das Bürger:innen derzeit noch eine kostenfreie Rückgabemöglichkeit bietet – bereits unter sehr großem wirtschaftlichem Druck steht. Bereits jetzt können vereinzelt gewisse Regionen vom System nicht mehr bedient werden, da es hier keine Möglichkeit der Weiterleitung der Entsorgungskosten an den jeweiligen örE gibt und sogar weiterhin Sondernutzungsgebühren erhoben werden. Dies mache die hochwertige Dienstleistung für Erfassung und Verwertung stark defizitär und könne somit nicht länger durchgeführt werden.

„Sollten nun regelmäßig verschmutzte und durchnässte Resttextilien in Altkleidercontainern landen, werden nicht nur zusätzliche Kosten verursacht, die künftig weiterbelastet werden müssen, sondern auch die langfristige Funktionsfähigkeit eines etablierten Systems gefährdet, das im Sinne des EU-Green Deals und der nationalen Kreislaufwirtschaftsstrategie ein Vorbild für Ressourceneffizienz darstellt“, verdeutlichte bvse-Vizepräsident Voigt die Konsequenzen.

Researchers tested five species of commonly hunted waterfowl in the northeast Atlantic Flyway and, in every sample, found contaminants that could impact the health of the birds, as well as the hunters and others who consume them.

The study, published Jan. 15 in Science of the Total Environment and conducted in collaboration with the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (NYSDEC) and other state agencies, found detectable levels of polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) and at least one organochlorine pesticide (OCP) and per- or polyfluoroalkyl substance (PFAS) in each bird sampled, in a representative group of more than 100 birds collected across four states and nine ecological regions.

Among the findings, the researchers determined that current New York State Department of Health consumption advisories - of two meals per month of waterfowl - may be appropriate, but some species are more or less contaminated than others. In risk assessments, the researchers found that some of the contaminants likely expose consumers to potential cancer risk, although how this risk compares to the consumption of other foods is unclear.

Of the five species studied, Canada geese and wood ducks had lower levels of contaminants than mallards, American black ducks and American green-winged teal, probably due to differences in their feeding habits, the authors said.

“The big picture is that these chemicals are out there, and wild animals are being exposed to them,” said senior author Krysten Schuler, assistant research professor of public and ecosystem health, and wildlife disease ecologist for the Cornell Wildlife Health Lab in the College of Veterinary Medicine (CVM). “We’re worried about it from the wildlife population standpoint: What do these chemicals mean for the birds? But then there’s also the question of what it means for human consumption.”

Hunters in the four participating states – New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey and Connecticut – harvest and consume more than a half-million wild-caught ducks and geese each year. But in New York, the guidance on safe consumption has not been updated since the early 1990s and doesn’t include some of the birds most likely to be consumed. The new data can now be used by health departments in all four states to assess current guidelines and craft new human consumption recommendations, when necessary.

“This provides a really good baseline,” Schuler said. “We’re not telling people what to eat or do. We’re just providing the numbers.”

In the risk assessments, researchers found that the levels of mercury and OCPs detected posed minimal risk to health for hunters who follow the current guidance on consumption, but they found that the levels of PCBs – human-made chemicals that were banned in 1979 – may be more likely to pose health risks, including increased cancer risk, although the authors said that more research is needed. The thresholds for safe consumption are variable depending on the level of acceptable risk, they said.

The study also lays the foundation for more research on how these contaminants affect the birds.

“It’s hard to know at what level these contaminants start to impact the bird’s survival or reproductive success,” said co-author Joshua Stiller, small game unit leader for NYSDEC, who initially brought the project to Schuler and her team. “But just understanding the current contaminant loads in these species is important, and we can get some ideas for future research to better understand the potential impacts on waterfowl populations.”

Much of the previous research on contaminants has looked at animals linked to known sources of pollution. To understand the contaminant levels at the population level, the researchers collected birds from various regions in each state. This required a massive collaborative effort, with help from state wildlife and conservation agencies, which deployed biologists to collect birds from hunters willing to participate.

The biologists then sent the birds to the Wildlife Health Lab, where they were processed and sent on to other labs for further testing.

“For each bird, we had somewhere between 200 and 300 columns of data,” said first author David Dayan ’23, who started working on the project as an undergraduate and did everything from handling and preparing the birds to high-level data analysis and assessment. “Trying to paint a coherent picture from all of these different perspectives and data points was a really interesting way to do science.”

In terms of conservation, Schuler said the widespread contamination of waterfowl is another warning sign. “These animals are constantly losing wetlands and habitats and being forced into less desirable locations,” she said. “This just highlights the importance of protecting those areas for these species.”

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued a statement commending U.S. Customs and Border Protection’s (CBP) notice of proposed rulemaking aimed at curtailing de minimis shipments that are harming the U.S. manufacturing base and U.S. consumers.

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas (17 January):
“We welcome CBP’s announced notice of proposed rulemaking exempting de minimis tariff-free benefits on imports ‘specified as trade and national security actions.’ This rulemaking represents a step forward in minimizing the impact of this disastrous loophole in U.S. trade law that has facilitated a surge of duty-free imports that are normally subject to penalty tariffs under various U.S. trade remedy statutes. Failure to collect these duties has exacerbated the flow of goods found to be in violation of U.S. trade laws that are costing American jobs and damaging our manufacturing sector.

“With this rulemaking, CBP and the administration seek to eliminate de minimis treatment for all imported products subject to U.S. trade remedies and penalties, including the current Section 301 tariffs on China. This is an important and much overdue reform.”

CBP states that the number of shipments over the past 10 years entering the United States claiming the de minimis administrative exemption has increased by more than 600%--from approximately 139 million a year in Fiscal Year 2015, to over one billion a year in FY 2023. During FY 2024, de minimis shipments rose once again to over 1.36 billion, according to CBP. The agency notes that the exponential increase ‘has created challenges for CBP’s effective enforcement of U.S. trade laws, health and safety requirements, intellectual property rights, and consumer protection rules.’     

“We have long called on the administration to use its existing authorities to mitigate the damage to our industry created by de minimis, which has functioned as a massive tariff loophole for low-cost, subsidized, and unethical Chinese imports and undermined the competitiveness of the U.S. textile industry—a key contributor to the workforce and the U.S. economy.

“The U.S. textile industry, a strategic supplier of goods to the U.S. military and PPE, is experiencing severe demand destruction fueled by 4 million de minimis shipments a day flooding our market with cheap, often illegal imports because of this outdated trade provision that rewards Chinese e-commerce platforms, importers and tariff cheaters with an open door to the U.S. market.

“The administration’s decision to initiate the rulemaking process in its final days is a significant and meaningful action for our domestic industry and that of other manufacturing sectors. We urge CBP to expedite the rulemaking process to the fullest extent possible and appreciate the agency’s strong engagement with our industry.

“Further, we strongly urge the incoming Trump administration to not only endorse this proposed rulemaking but to expeditiously implement a comprehensive solution to the growing de minimis problem beyond the action announced today. Noting the magnitude of the problem, and the inability of CBP to effectively enforce our trade laws with the flood of de minimis packages coming in daily, we are calling on President-elect Donald Trump to take immediate steps to end de minimis by executive order. We are also pressing Congress to work together with the new administration on a permanent and comprehensive solution to immediately close this disastrous loophole once and for all.

“We are strongly committed to working with CBP on the rulemaking process as well as the Trump administration and both sides of the aisle in Congress to get this done immediately to help provide relief to this most impacted industry and others. “

Fair Fashion & Design made in Düsseldorf: Am Samstag, den 25. Januar 2025 findet im Rahmen der 2025er Winter Edition der Düsseldorf Fashion Days die zweite Ausgabe des Formats SUSTAIN! statt. Nach der erfolgreichen Premiere 2024 im Bilker Bunker zieht SUSTAIN! nun in die Jugendstilvilla Fürstenpalais auf den Fürstenwall. Auf vier Etagen bildet SUSTAIN! hier im Rahmen eines eintägigen Pop-Up-Marktes eine Momentaufnahme von knapp 20 lokalen und regionalen Labels ab, die in den Bereichen Fashion & Design einen nachhaltigen Ansatz verfolgen.

Mit dabei sind 305 care (Beauty) | Atelier Goldfisch (Jewellery) | Avonté (Homewear) | BUY GOOD STUFF | AMD Düsseldorf (Magazine) | COSH x Igedo Exhibition’s Fashion Aware Club| Cutoffs | (Interior Accessories) | ERDEN (Jewellery) | FREITAG Workshop (Bags & Accessories) | Harriet Allure (Scented Candles) | HSD PBSA • New Craft Object Design (Design) | Jimu Kobayashi (Ceramics) |  Lucky Cat Studio Siebdruck (Printing Studio) | Matchasome (Matcha Drinks & Products) | Orfèvre (Jewellery) | OYA Studio (Fashion) | PURSIK.boxers (Fashion) | Studio Orf (Accessories) | studio rosa (Accessories) | suzusan (Fashion) | TONI (Upcycled Fashion) | Two Brothers Vintage (Vintage Apparel & Accessories) | WEIRD SPACE (Specialty Coffee)

Die überwiegend lokalen Brands und Designer:innen präsentieren und verkaufen ihre Kollektionen und Produkte und geben spannende Einblicke in ihre Arbeitsweisen Begleitet wird der Markt von Workshops vom Schweizer Label FREITAG, das einen Store auf der Düsseldorfer Hohe Straße betreibt sowie dem Düsseldorfer Druckstudio Lucky Cat Studio.

Die von der Wirtschaftsförderung Düsseldorf initiierte und vom Düsseldorfer Magazin THE DORF kuratierte Veranstaltung soll abbilden, welche Ausprägungen der Nachhaltigkeit sich in Zukunft in der Mode- und Lifestyle-Branche etablieren könnten und will neue Impulse und Sichtweisen vermitteln. Der Eintritt zum Pop-Up-Markt ist frei.
 
Neu ist der HopOn-HopOff-Bus, der in Zusammenarbeit mit Visit Düsseldorf in einer guided Green Fashion Tour verschiedene „ecofriendly“ Konzepte im Düsseldorfer Stadtbereich anfährt.

Global ecommerce platform and leader in on-demand merchandise production now leverages 86 Kornit Atlas MAX systems across its global fulfillment network Long Beach, CA – Impressions Expo Long Beach – January 23, 2025 —Printful, the global ecommerce platform and leader in on-demand merchandise production, announced the company has significantly upgraded its ability to empower creators, entrepreneurs, and businesses of all sizes by expanding its direct-to-garment (DTG) printer resources – further solidifying its position as an industry innovator. By integrating added units of the innovative Atlas MAX technology from Kornit Digital, Printful is setting a new benchmark for print quality and color consistency, delivering the best results in the industry for ist customers worldwide.

Both Printful and Kornit will be exclusively discussing their partnership at Impressions Expo in Long Beach, CA on January 23-25. The expanded partnership equips Printful with an unmatched 86 Atlas MAX systems across ist global fulfillment network, making them the industry leader in print on-demand DTG. Since 2015, the company has invested tens of millions of dollars in upgrading its DTG printing solutions to ensure advanced print quality and reliability for its millions of customers. Renowned for producing vibrant, durable prints with remarkable precision, Atlas MAX technology guarantees that every product meets Printful’s ambitious standards for quality and reliability - something for which Printful merchants around the world have come to rely.

The adoption of Atlas MAX fully reinforces Printful’s sustainability goals, offering a more eco-conscious printing solution with reduced waste and a smaller environmental footprint, aligning with the growing demand for sustainable practices in the ecommerce and printing industries.

This equipment upgrade is part of Printful’s larger mission to enhance its global fulfillment network and support its customers in building successful businesses. The advanced technology ensures superior results across its entire catalog of custom products, from t-shirts and hoodies to tote bags and beyond, all while supporting the speed and scalability for which Printful is known.

In the 2024 financial year, the global automotive industry recorded a slight decline in produc-tion of –1.1%* compared to the previous year. In this weakening environment, Autoneum in-creased its consolidated revenue in Swiss francs by CHF 36.4 million to CHF 2 338.7 million. Excluding translational effects from the conversion of local currencies into Swiss francs, revenue rose by CHF 96.1 million or 4.2% to CHF 2 398.5 million, which is in the middle of the guidance of CHF 2.3 billion to CHF 2.5 billion. Based on the preliminary figures, Autoneum expects an EBIT margin of over 5% and free cash flow of just over CHF 100 million for the 2024 financial year, thus fully confirming the guidance.

Business Group Europe achieved revenue of CHF 1 152.4 million in the 2024 financial year, an increase of CHF 78.5 million compared to CHF 1 073.9 million in the previous year. In local curren-cies, revenue grew by 9.8%. The first-time consolidation of four instead of three quarters of Borgers Automotive, which was acquired in 2023, resulted in an inorganic increase of 13.0%. Organically, revenue in local currencies declined by 3.2%, outperforming the market, which recorded a decline of 4.6%*.

Business Group North America outperformed the market in local currencies: while vehicle pro-duction fell by 1.4%* overall, Business Group North America recorded a slight increase of 1.3% in revenue. Borgers Automotive made a positive contribution of 3.0% to inorganic growth, while the organic revenue change was –1.7%. Consolidated revenue in Swiss francs amounted to CHF 884.6 million. (2023: CHF 895.9 million).

Business Group Asia generated revenue of CHF 198.3 million in Swiss francs, which was CHF 44.5 million below the previous year (2023: CHF 242.8 million). In local currencies, revenue shrank by 15.3% overall. The organic decline in revenue amounted to 16.6%, while the additional first quarter of Borgers Automotive, which was acquired in 2023, had a positive impact of 1.3% in the reporting year. The market in Asia remained stable with a growth of 0.1%*. In 2024, local Chinese vehicle manufacturers continued to gain market share in China at the expense of Japanese and European producers, which was clearly reflected in the revenue development of Business Group Asia. This trend underlines the importance of the acquisition of the Chinese Jiangsu Huanyu Group, announced on November 19, 2024, which generates over 90% of its reve-nue with Chinese car manufacturers in China and will significantly strengthen Autoneum's market position.

Business Group SAMEA (South America, Middle East and Africa) achieved revenue growth of 14.4% in local currencies, mainly due to inflation-related price increases. In Swiss francs, revenue amounted to CHF 121.4 million. This corresponds to an increase of CHF 12.4 million or 11.3% compared to the previous year.

The undersigned PROs and business associations launched the Textile PRO Forum, a unique voluntary initiative designed to harmonise and share best practices for effective and efficient implementation of the Extended Producer Responsibility for textiles and footwear (Textiles EPR) across Europe.

As Europe prepares for the mandatory separate collection of textile waste and with the revision of the Waste Framework Directive entering its final stage, the EPR schemes have become a cornerstone of the European strategy for sustainability and circularity of textiles.

These EPR schemes and the related PROs will operate differently in each EU Member State, reflecting national legislation, market conditions, and infrastructure. While this diversity reflects local features, it also presents a challenge for efficiency and for businesses which will face the complexity of up to 27 different EPR models for textiles.

The Textile PRO Forum addresses this need by bringing together experienced PROs and national business associations engaged in the implementation of the Textile EPRs. Its mission is to foster collaboration, harmonization, and knowledge-sharing among the Textile EPR Producer Responsibility Organizations (PROs).

Initiated by Refashion, the first PRO for textiles, and by EURATEX, the European Textile and Apparel Confederation, the Textile PRO Forum is coordinated by EURATEX. The initial key activities include the Forum set up and the following strategic workstreams:

• Reduce administrative burden
• Harmonize approaches to implement the eco-modulation fees, set by legislation
• Supporting recycling
• Harmonise framework
• Set up, creation and expansion of PROs

List of the participating organizations

1. Asociación para la Gestión del Residuo Textil y Calzado
2. ATOK
3. Cobat Tessile
4. Comeos
5. Creamoda
6. Danish Fashion & Textile
7. Electrao
8. Erion Textiles
9. EURATEX
10. Fedustria
11. Finnish Textile & Fashion
12. Gesamtverband Textil- und Mode
13. Inretail
14. Modint
15. Reconomy / Redress
16. Recydata
17. Refashion
18. RETEX.Green
19. Retur
20. REFABRIK
21. Stichting Producentenorganisatie UPV Textiel
22. TEKO – Swedish Textile and Fashion Industries

Mikroplastik ist allgegenwärtig, und Hinweise auf ernsthafte Schäden nehmen zu. Studien haben Mikro- und Nanoplastik mit Herzinfarkten, Schlaganfällen oder Todesfällen in Verbindung gebracht, man findet Mikroplastik im Knochenmark von Leukämiepatienten und in Gehirnen von Demenzpatienten. Die Proben solcher Demenzpatienten, einschließlich Alzheimer-Erkrankten, enthielten bis zu zehnmal mehr Plastikpartikel als gesunde Proben.

Die Analytikerin Veronica Bates Kassatly und der Statistiker Dr. Terry Townsend haben einen Bericht zum Thema Mikroplastik zusammengestellt, der nun von der Bremer Baumwollbörse herausgegeben wird.

Ein zentraler Aspekt der Besorgnis sind die mit diesen synthetischen Textilpolymeren verbundenen Chemikalien. Etwa 2.566 Chemikalien werden entweder für die Verwendung in PET vermarktet, sind in PET vorhanden oder werden aus PET freigesetzt. Nur 31 davon sind als nicht gefährlich bekannt, 31 % sind als gefährlich bekannt, aber für die überwiegende Mehrheit liegen keine Gefährdungsdaten vor.

Daher stellen Plastikmikrofasern eine völlig andere Gefahrenkategorie als andere Mikrofasern dar und müssen in Lebenszyklusanalysen (LCA) und Product Environmental Footprints (PEF) entsprechend behandelt werden. In Anerkennung dieses grundlegenden Unterschieds spezifizierte die Resolution der Europäischen Kommission vom März 2024 zur Green Claims Directive, dass der PEF für Bekleidung und Schuhe eine Mikroplastikbewertung enthalten muss.

Interessenkonflikte statt Wissenschaft
Allerdings stammen die Quellen, die sowohl von den französischen als auch den EU-PEFs zur Bewertung der Mikrofaserauswirkungen herangezogen werden, nicht von wissenschaftlichen Organisationen, sondern von Einrichtungen, die von Interessengruppen mit Eigeninteressen geschaffen und finanziert wurden. Die Interessenkonflikte, die sich aus der Beteiligung von Akteuren ergeben, die eng mit der Produktion von Plastikbekleidung verbunden sind, untergraben die wissenschaftlichen Grundlagen der Umweltgesetzgebung und behindern das effektive Management langfristiger Umweltprobleme.

Lebenszyklusanalysen und PEFs in der Modewertschöpfungskette müssen klarstellen, dass Plastikfasern gefährliche Chemikalien enthalten und solche Fasern während des gesamten Lebenszyklus des Artikels eine Exposition gegenüber verschiedenen Chemikalien verursachen können.

In ihrem 31-seitigen Bericht über die Behandlung von Mikroplastik in LCA- und PEF-Anwendungen empfehlen Veronica Bates Kassatly und Terry Townsend, dass, ebenso wie Verpackungen für Tabakprodukte einen Warnhinweis enthalten müssen, ein Warnhinweis auf Verpackungen aller Produkte mit synthetischen Fasern angebracht werden sollte.

Der Bericht wurde mit finanzieller Unterstützung von Cotton Incorporated veröffentlicht und steht als elektronische Version auf der BBB-Webseite zum Download bereit.