From the Sector

The Integrated Regulatory Strategy (IRS) has increased the knowledge on chemicals and sped up identification of substances for which regulatory risk management actions are required. Refocussed IRS 2024-2028 will continue moving substances to risk management.

ECHA’s Integrated Regulatory Strategy aimed to speed up data generation, identification of groups of substances of concern, and regulatory action. It did so by integrating different regulatory processes into one approach to manage chemical risks effectively and efficiently. The strategy also encouraged collaboration between ECHA, Member States authorities and the European Commission.

The original goal of the IRS was achieved: to clarify which REACH registered substances are a high priority for regulatory risk management or data generation, and which are currently a low priority for further regulatory action.

ECHA’s sixth and final report of its Integrated Regulatory Strategy 2019-2023 shows that it achieved its goal of screening high production volume chemicals, manufactured or imported above 100 tonnes per year, that were on the European markets in 2018.

Since 2019, ECHA has grouped and screened 6 000 substances, and addressed almost all of the 4 100 high production volume chemicals. Around 1 900 of substances screened in ECHA’s assessments of regulatory needs may potentially require regulatory risk management, mostly harmonised classification and labelling (CLH) or restriction under REACH. For more than two thirds of those, further data is needed first to confirm the relevant hazards. Around 60 % of all substances screened did not require further action.

Several substance groups, identified as requiring regulatory risk management, have been included in the EU’s Restrictions Roadmap, for example bisphenols, ortho-phthalates, flame retardants, hydrocarbyl siloxanes and hydrocarbylphenols.

Ofelia Bercaru, ECHA’s Director of Prioritisation and Integration, said:
“The strategy has significantly contributed to the EU ambition towards reaching the United Nations’ 2030 Sustainable Development Goals concerning chemicals. Over the next four years, we will continue the coordinated approach towards prioritising substances for risk management, whilst maintaining our good knowledge on ECHA’s chemical database, enhancing transparency with authorities and stakeholders, and exploring synergies with ECHA’s new tasks.

Next steps
The reviewed IRS for 2024-2028 will continue to improve the protection of human health and the environment from risks posed by hazardous chemicals. ECHA, the European Commission and Member States’ authorities will focus on agreeing more swiftly the necessary risk management measures for the identified substances of concern.

The future prioritisation of authorities’ activities will focus, for example, on the one substance one assessment principle. ECHA will integrate its new tasks to this approach in coming years.

Maintaining a focus on innovation despite the uncertainties that characterize the current international scenario was emphasized during the General Assembly of ACIMIT, the Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association, held in Milan on July 9. ACIMIT president, Marco Salvadè, showcased the data of the Italian textile machinery industry. In 2023, production decreased by 16%, settling at a value of 2.3 billion euros, as did exports, which also fell by 16% (2 billion euros).

China, Turkey, India, and the United States remain the main destinations for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2023, demand for machinery in these markets was weak, but some positive signals emerged in the first quarter of the current year, especially from the Chinese market and again from Egypt, Pakistan, Brazil, and Japan. “2024 will still be a year characterized by many uncertainties,” commented Salvadè, “mainly due to the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation and fluctuations in final demand”.

In an especially difficult international scenario and with a still sluggish market, the Italian textile machinery sector remains a leader alongside a few other Countries, such as China, Germany and Japan. Accelerating innovation remains crucial, particularly to meet the challenges that await Italian manufacturers in supporting textile companies on their sustainable transition journey.

To highlight the opportunities that the European green transition opens up for technology suppliers, the public section of the ACIMIT General Assembly addressed a very current issue: textile recycling. The EU’s legislative guidelines aim to accelerate the green and circular transition of the textile sector with various actions: from ecodesign to EPR, from waste export regulation to green claims. Meanwhile, there is a growing demand for recycled textile fibers driven by the sustainable policies of brands that should not be underestimated.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, in collaboration with Nonwovens Industry Magazine, is now accepting nominations for the 2025 IDEA® Achievement Awards. Industry professionals in the nonwoven and engineered materials sectors are invited to submit their innovative products—or those of their clients—for consideration.

The IDEA Achievement Awards honor innovations introduced since IDEA22, recognizing excellence in six categories. Winners will be announced during IDEA25, which will be held at the Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami Beach, Florida, from April 29 to May 1, 2025.

Award Categories:

• Raw Materials – Best new raw materials introduction
• Nonwoven Product – Best new nonwoven fabric introduction
• Short-Life – Best new short-life product introduction
• Long-Life – Best new durable product introduction
• Equipment – Best new equipment introduction
• Sustainability Advancement – Recognizing sustainability and/or circularity advancements in raw materials, nonwoven fabrics, processes and equipment, and end-use products.

Entries must be submitted by December 16, 2024 for consideration. Finalists in each category will be selected by INDA’s Technical Advisory Board, with the top three in each category moving forward. Voting will take place on the Nonwovens Industry website, allowing industry professionals to determine the winners. Additionally, the recipient of the Entrepreneur Award will be chosen exclusively by Nonwovens Industry Magazine.

When PERFORMANCE DAYS opens its doors on October 23 and 24, 2024, in Halls A1 and A2 at the Messe München exhibition grounds, visitors will once again find fabric innovations for Fall/Winter 2026 across the segments of performance wear, footwear, accessories, and, for the first time, bodywear. The jury, composed of renowned industry experts, reviewed the latest fabrics for the 2026 season in the Trend, Footwear, and Bodywear Forum, looking for outstanding innovations. A total of one Performance Award and one Eco Performance Award were presented.

PERFORMANCE DAYS continues to deliver plenty of highlights and innovations in technical fibers and materials in the Trend Forum at the winter exhibition. Since Fall 2023, the event has also focused on the footwear segment, summarizing the latest trends and news in the dedicated Footwear Forum. Starting in October 2024, the organizers will introduce a new Bodywear Collective, complete with a corresponding Trend Forum. In close collaboration with the London Contour Experts and designer and industry expert Nichole de Carle, PERFORMANCE DAYS will feature a Trend Forum dedicated to underwear, shapewear, bras & leggings, yoga in motion, and swimwear.

The expert jury, led by Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS, Jury Head Alexa Dehmel, and guest jurors Regina Goller, a textile expert with experience in sustainable functional fabrics at companies like Odlo, Puma, and Jack Wolfskin, as well as Stephan Prinz, Account Manager Germany at Klopman, praised the quality, sustainability approaches, and high level of innovation in the submissions. The jury awarded one Performance Award (Bodywear) and one Eco Performance Award (Apparel).

The winners are: A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA & Penn Textile Solutions GmbH/Penn Italia SRL
For the Fall/Winter 2026 season, the jury selected three awards for outstanding fabrics.

Alongside the Eco Performance Award, which went to A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA for the article “69222/Colorful chemistry featuring holistic farming,” one Performance Award
was also presented for the first time in the bodywear segment: Penn Textile Solutions GmbH/Penn Italia SRL made their debut in the Bodywear Forum with "13949.

ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD: A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA / Article “69222 - Colorful Chemistry Featuring Holistic Farming”
In collaboration with Good Earth Cotton, this project focuses on sustainable farming practices to reduce the environmental impact of cotton while improving soil health, paving the way for a carbon-neutral future. The supplier is also exploring innovations with organic cotton grown using regenerative farming methods, expanding the scope for future eco-friendly concepts. Additionally, the fabric is dyed using biological dyes—an innovative technique where natural bacteria produce pigments that bond efficiently with the fabric a low temperatures without the use of petrochemicals. The fabric is available in pink and
sand.

Jury Statement: “This fabric takes this year’s focus topic to the next level! A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA’s fabric innovation showcases the future of dyeing with microorganisms. Textile dyeing with living organisms is a sustainable and resource-efficient method that requires no harmful chemicals. Additionally, the fabric, made from 100% organic cotton, excels in performance due to an innovative body-mapping concept that provides optimal support during wear.”

PERFORMANCE AWARD: Penn Textile Solutions GmbH / Penn Italia SRL / Article “13949” This fabric, composed of 68% recycled polyamide and 32% ROICA, with a weight of 290 grams, is perfect for baselayer construction. It can be customized with the brand’s own design, featuring open structures and a 3D effect for added texture. Despite its structure, the fabric has an incredibly soft touch, ensuring maximum comfort during wear. Jury Statement: “Penn Textiles was a popular vote, an award worthy of the jury. The fabric has a combination of high density opaque areas with lighter breathable panels. A superior choice for the Bodywear Category because of its customisable 3D design aesthetic, printable qualities and second skin super soft touch. The fabric blend of Roica yarn and recycled PA has many admirable qualities for next to skin, including anti-odor, quick dry and outstanding stretch and recovery to adapt to the body shape. Fabric, with a perfect fit for body contouring products including leggings, underwear and light support shapewear.”

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announces the three finalists competing for the 2024 Hygienix Innovation Award™. Harper Hygienics, Hello Hazel, and HIRO Technologies will present their absorbent hygiene products at Hygienix™, taking place November 18-21 at The Renaissance Nashville Hotel, Nashville, Tennessee.

• Harper Hygienics S.A.: Cleanic Naturals Hemp – Sanitary Pads (Day & Night), Pantyliners
  Cleanic Naturals Hemp by Harper Hygienics S.A. is an innovative femcare line, crafted with sero™ regenerative hemp fibers produced by Bast Fibre Technologies and processed on our unique Hemplace™ technology platform. These sanitary pads and pantyliners are designed for women’s comfort throughout their cycle. Hemp’s antibacterial and hypoallergenic properties make it a natural solution for sensitive skin, ensuring all-day safety and comfort. Plus, sero™ hemp fibers are 100% natural, offering an eco-conscious approach to personal care.
• Hello Hazel, Inc.: Hazel High & Dry Briefs
  Hazel’s High & Dry Briefs – the first and only disposable briefs for leaks designed to look, fit, and feel like real underwear. Engineered with a novel, ultra-thin, highly absorbent core seamlessly integrated beneath a unique elasticated cover that moves naturally with her body, offering unparalleled comfort, discretion, and reliable protection. Purposefully developed to reduce stigma and address both physical and emotional needs, the Briefs successfully attracted many new consumers who previously opted out of the category.
• HIRO Technologies, Inc.: World’s First MycoDigestable™ Diapers
  Introducing the world’s first MycoDigestible™ diapers, powered by HIRO’s frontier fungal technology. HIRO’s MycoDigestible™ solution introduces plastic-eating mushrooms in a safe, user-friendly way that seamlessly integrates into everyday life. The HIRO Diaper combines exceptional absorbency with natural materials like unbleached TruCotton™ and Kraft softwood fluff pulp, offering 12-hour protection while being gentle on both baby and planet.

The 2024 winner will be revealed on Thursday, November 21st at 11:00 am.

The 2023 Hygienix Innovation Award went to Sequel Spiral™ Tampon, which features a unique spiral design engineered for enhanced fluid absorption and leak prevention. This breakthrough product received FDA clearance as a medical device and is available online and in a growing number of retail outlets.

Together with the Association of the German Furniture Industry (VDM) and the German Furniture and Kitchen Retailers Association (BVDM), Koelnmesse has decided to skip the imm cologne's January 2025 edition. This joint decision was taken following intense discussions and reflects the challenging conditions the furniture industry is currently facing, particularly in Germany. It gives everyone involved the chance to collaborate with Koelnmesse on the development of a new, more viable future trade fair format.

It was taken primarily due to the fact that the German furniture manufacturers are generally in troubled waters, as there is a scarce domestic demand for furniture, and the industry is therefore, understandably, keeping a close eye on its spending.

According to the latest VDM industry figures, the entire market recorded a significant fall in turnover in 2023, as well as in the first six months of 2024. It dropped by 9.7 percent for all furniture, and even by 11.2 percent for upholstered furniture. The employee and company numbers are also going down.

"We're extremely sorry to be skipping the imm cologne, but ultimately, this is a necessary, and the right step," says VDM president Leo Lübke. "Like many other industries, the furniture market has also changed considerably over the past few years - and along with this the demand for trade fairs. Unfortunately, the industry's current situation is forcing many companies to change course. As an industry, we are working intensely with Koelnmesse on the development of new concepts tailor-made specifically for the individual furniture segments. As Europe's largest furniture nation, we need our central industry shows, and believe in the Cologne venue's furniture expertise."

BVDM president Markus Meyer agrees: "I understand the decision to skip next January's trade fair, and I'm sorry that the industry did not lend better support to its leading international trade fair. The imm cologne has been an important meeting place for the industry for decades. By taking a break next year, we will not only lose a central platform for innovation and exchange, but also an important stage for serving the international market. All of the industry's stakeholders are now urgently tasked with getting together and finding joint solutions. More than ever before, we must now concentrate on securing and strengthening our position. The industry needs a strong platform like the imm cologne in order to restructure itself in a way that ensures its future viability."

The chairman of the Koelnmesse management board is also looking towards the future: "Pausing the imm cologne at this point in time is a logical decision, in view of the situation the industry currently finds itself in," says Gerald Böse. "It was an extremely difficult decision to make, but it was also unavoidable in order to show our international customers some consideration. Due to its January date, the imm cologne did not take place three years in a row during the pandemic. This lack of continuity, coupled with the current economic environment, makes it impossible for us as event organisers to guarantee an attractive range of exhibitors for the retailers in Cologne in January 2025. We still intend to offer the furniture industry an international stage in Germany in future. We are already jointly developing very promising concepts that meet the changed requirements of all stakeholders as best as can be. Koelnmesse is the world's number one in interiors, as impressively proven by the ORGATEC, the interzum and the spoga+gafa. We must now steer our flagship back on course, together with the furniture industry!"

DyStar, a specialty chemical company with a heritage of more than a century in product development and innovation, announced that they won the Champion Award for outstanding contribution and performance at the Adidas adiFormulator Award, an annual program launched in 2023.

Mrs. Fanny Vermandel, Vice President of Global Marketing Coloration at DyStar Group said, “DyStar is very pleased to receive the newly minted accolades from Adidas, as it further demonstrates our unwavering commitment to supporting the success of our customers, including brands and retailers, in their sustainability journey towards achieving their 2030 goal of 100% ZDHC MRSL Conformance.”

As a responsible leader in dyestuff and chemical manufacturer, DyStar offers over 2,100 products listed on the ZDHC Gateway that meet the ZDHC MRSL V3.1 specifications. Brands and Retailers and other stakeholders can leverage DyStar’s expertise to support their journey towards ZDHC MRSL conformance. To date, 99.7% of DyStar’s products listed on ZDHC have achieved the highest accreditation level of 3.

Topo Athletic Adopts eVent Fabrics Plant-Positive: Starting in 2024, the Topo Athletic Terraventure 4 WP and Trailventure 2 WP will feature eVent’s sustainable plant-based BIO Footwear technology.

eVent^®️ Fabrics, a global leader in waterproof and breathable fabric technologies, is officially supplying their planet-positive eVent BIO™ Footwear waterproof/breathable laminate to Topo Athletic, leaders in sustainably-minded footwear for walking, running, and hiking.

The eVent BIO Footwear technology is currently being used in the Topo Terraventure 4 WP trail shoe and the Trailventure 2 WP hiking boot. Both shoes offer comfort, performance, and now, an eco-friendly waterproof/breathable membrane.

Designed to withstand any weather conditions, BIO Footwear is a waterproof and planet-positive laminate that combines cutting-edge technology with highly renewable plant-based materials. BIO Footwear offers good abrasion resistance, ensuring your shoes stand the test of time. From rugged outdoor adventures to everyday wear, BIO Footwear is ready to take on any challenge while keeping your feet dry, comfortable, and blister free.

The waterproof version of the lightweight, rugged, and versatile trail runner and hiker, the Terraventure 4 WP is built to take on wet conditions. The upper features an eVent® BIO footwear bootie construction to lock water out, while the tightly woven mesh provides a secure and durable fit. The 25 x22 mm platform combines moderate cushioning with a forefoot rock plate for a comfortable and protective ride. The Vibram® Megagrip outsole offers superior traction and slip resistance on all terrain, especially in wet conditions.

The Trailventure 2 WP’s mesh upper features a full eVent® BIO footwear waterproof bootie construction, while the ZipFoamTM midsole and external TPU heel counter offer comfort and security. Gaiter attachments work with Topo's Performance Gaiter to keep dirt and debris out. The Vibram® Megagrip outsole provides grip on all surfaces, while the full-length ESS rock plate offers protection and stability.

Smart Closet is an innovative event dedicated to new generation fashion where C.L.A.S.S and Equipe International, through the InsideOut approach by C.L.A.S.S., come together to represent a smart wardrobe - beautiful, innovative, responsible - together with a new language of values with the aim to share the fully transparent journey behind each product and company, to show their outer and inner values. All values and concepts that are part of Bemberg™ identity.

Bemberg™ is the brand name of the regenerated cellulose fiber cupro, produced only by Asahi Kasei in Japan. It is a special fiber with a circular economy footprint thanks to the fact that it is made from a regenerated cellulose obtained from the manufacturing process of cottonseed oil with a closed-loop process. It guarantees certified sustainability credentials through its transparent and traceable approach. It delivers high quality and versatile applications, comfortable whatever the season: its blissful sensation glides on linings, outerwear, underwear, sportswear and even couture pieces. All perfect characteristics that fit in Smart Closet initiative.

The project chosen to participate with is the incredible capsule collection A Dress For Venice designed by eco-designer Tiziano Guardini, illustrated by artist Jacopo Ascari, and produced by Martina Vidal Venezia, a Venetian brand that has enriched the garments with some elements in Burano lace, an ancient art candidate to enter the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity!
 
Inspired by the city of water, it’s made with Bemberg™ fabrics created by Infinity Srl with the textile printing done by Creazioni Digitali, which with the CreŌ | project  printed on Bemberg™ fabrics with low-water pigment inks technology . This collection truly represents and includes all the values of beauty, innovation and supply chain partnerships, all elements.

Utilizing renewable materials* and formaldehyde-free chemistries, the industry-first Archroma NTR Printing System combines newly created pigment black and customized auxiliaries for enhanced sustainability, comfort and durability
 
Archroma, a company in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, introduced the NTR Printing System to make bio-based pigment printing commercially possible for the first time. Based on renewable raw materials and designed for safer chemistry, it helps apparel and textile brands reduce their environmental footprint while producing brilliant black shades on garments that deliver both comfort and durability.

Bio-based pigment printing is an emerging technology that is attracting major interest from brands that want to use pigments derived from natural sources, such as plants, in the production of environmentally conscious textiles. Until now, however, bio-based pigments have not delivered color fastness that is comparable to synthetic pigments, and color quality and production performance have not been sufficient to support commercial-scale production.

Archroma’s NTR Printing System is the first to utilize renewable feedstock across pigment dispersion, binder and fixing agent. Crucially, it ensures good wet-rubbing and dry-rubbing fastness, with outstanding softness on all kinds of fabrics. Furthermore, it is suitable for most popular application technologies, including printing, coating and continuous pigment dyeing, with outstanding runnability for production efficiency.

“These properties make the new NTR Printing System ideal for the highly competitive denim market, where sustainability, comfort and durability are important; for knits, where very soft handfeel is essential; and on babywear, where both exceptional softness and safety are required,” Joaquin Femat, Market Segment Director for Printing, Archroma, said.

The result of more than two years of research and development, the innovative new NTR Printing System required Archroma to create customized binding and fixing agents to ensure fastness for the pigment black dispersion comparable to current petroleum-based printing systems. All three printing elements are partially based on renewable feedstock to reduce reliance on non-renewable petrochemicals. Archroma also developed the new system to avoid toxic input streams and impurities, including formaldehyde. Two successful bulk trials were conducted with Textprint S. A. and Jeanologia.

The NTR printing system comprises the following highly efficient and robust printing elements:

• PRINTOFIX® BLACK NTR-TF: A non-gelling pigment black with 79% renewable carbon content*, designed for use in textile applications with no impact on fastness levels.
• HELIZARIN® NTR-SS: A formaldehyde-free super-soft binder with 40% renewable carbon content, designed to ensure very good overall fastness levels.
• LUPRINTOL® FIXING AGENT NTR-HF: A formaldehyde-free fixing agent with 40% renewable carbon content**, designed for high wet fastness in rubbing and laundry.

All three elements are currently being evaluated for compliance with globally accepted standards like bluesign®, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). The system also supports major industry restricted substances list (RSL) requirements.