From the Sector

At this year's JEC Composites Innovation Awards ceremony, the award in the "Construction & Civil Engineering" category went to the "DACCUSS" project, coordinated by the DITF. TechnoCarbon Technologies GbR, the inventor of Carbon Fiber Stone (CFS), received the JEC Award together with its development partners. The award is for the development of house walls made of Carbon Fiber Stone (CFS), a CO2 negative composite material.

Each year, the JEC Composites Innovation Awards recognize innovative and creative projects that demonstrate the full potential of composite materials. With the help of a development team from 12 companies and research institutions, TechnoCarbon Technologies GbR successfully submitted its innovative DACCUSS building element for house walls made of Carbon Fiber Stone.

Carbon Fiber Stone is a building material made of natural rocks and bio-based carbon fibers. It serves as an environmentally friendly replacement for CO2-intensive concrete in the construction industry. While conventional concrete walls release large amounts of CO2 during production, the DACCUS building element binds 59 kg of CO2 per square meter and therefore has a negative carbon footprint. In addition, the panels weigh only one-third of equivalent reinforced concrete house walls.

Each DACCUS element consists of several high-strength natural stone slabs made from magmatic rock. Inside the construction are bio-based carbon fibers, which the DITF Denkendorf is working intensively to develop. They form the stiffening element that enables the high strength of the construction elements and, in turn, contribute to the negative CO2 balance. The layer between the natural rock slabs is filled with carbon-negative biochar granulate, which is responsible for the insulation of the building element. The mineral sawdust from the cut rock slabs can be used as a soil amendment and serves as a binder for free CO2 from the atmosphere. The strict focus on processes and materials that actively bind CO2 has made it possible to produce a building material with a negative CO2 balance.

Partners: Deutsche Institute für Textil- und Faserforschung Denkendorf (DITF), TechnoCarbon Technologies GbR, Universität Hamburg (UHH), Labor für Stahl- und Leichtmetallbau GmbH (LSL), AHP GmbH & Co. KG, Technische Universität München (TUM), GVU mbH, Silicon Kingdom Holding Ltd., Gallehr Sustainable Risk Management GmbH, Peer Technologies GmbH & Co. KG, GREIN srl, Convoris Group GmbH, RecyCoal GmbH, ITA, Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen, LISD GmbH.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will be showcasing its high-performance textile and nonwoven solutions for the composites industry at JEC World, the leading international composites show, in Paris, France. These include Enka®Solutions flow media and spacers for composites manufacturing and surfacing veils.

Composite manufacturers will have the opportunity to discuss solutions for optimizing resin infusion and foam injection molding processes with the experts, focusing on Enka®’s unique 3D polymeric filament structures used in Enka®Solutions flow media and spacers. With this technology, manufacturers benefit from a marked improvement in both quality and efficiency, ensuring their products meet the highest standards.

In vacuum-assisted resin transfer molding (VARTM) and resin transfer molding (RTM) processes, composites manufactured using Enka®Solutions flow media have a superior bond and enhanced mechanical properties, which significantly decreases the risk of wrinkling and defects in the final products. Enka®Solutions flow media ensure rapid and reliable resin distribution. This guarantees full wet-out of the internal structure whilst keeping glass fiber reinforcement nettings and component surfaces precisely in place.

Freudenberg will also be presenting Enka®Solutions spacers, which contribute to faster production cycles and reproducible high-quality finished products.

Nonwoven surfacing veils for anti-corrosive coatings in piping and tank construction, UV-resistant facade panels, and other FRP end products.

Freudenberg’s surfacing veils are an essential part of FRP components and provide abrasion resistance, corrosion protection, smooth surfaces, and enhanced mechanical strength. As one of the world’s leading nonwoven manufacturers, Freudenberg’ portfolio of technologies is well suited to meeting the different needs of FRP part manufacturers. At JEC, the company’s experts will highlight the wide variety of technical capabilities for combining glass, PAN, and PET, in the shape of fibers or filaments, using their unique nonwoven expertise in wetlaid, drylaid, and spunbond processes.

At CHF 725.5 million, order intake was significantly higher than in the same period of the previous year (2023: CHF 541.8 million), representing an increase of 34%. This was the fourth consecutive quarter of year-on-year growth. As expected, the Rieter Group ended financial year 2024 with lower sales than in the previous year. According to preliminary, unaudited figures, total sales amounted to CHF 859.1 million, which is around 39% down on the previous year (2023: CHF 1 418.6 million). For the full year 2024, Rieter expects an EBIT margin in the upper half of the guidance range of 2% to 4% communicated in October 2024 (2023: 7.2%).

Order intake
Order intake in 2024 was 34% higher than in the previous year at CHF 725.5 million (2023: CHF 541.8 million). Rieter thus succeeded in strengthening its competitive position in a challenging market environment. Compared with the previous year, there were signs of an initial market recovery.

Sales by division
The Machines & Systems Division posted sales of CHF 424.9 million, a decrease of 56% compared with the previous year (2023: CHF 965.0 million). In the Components Division, sales declined to CHF 247.6 million, down 7% from the same period of the previous year (2023: CHF 266.2 million). The After Sales Division reported sales of CHF 186.6 million, comparable to the previous year (2023: CHF 187.4 million).

Order backlog
At the end of 2024, the company had an order backlog of about CHF 530 million (December 31, 2023: CHF 650 million).

EBIT margin
Rieter successfully implemented the measures of the “Next Level” performance program. Despite significantly lower sales, a solid EBIT margin is expected in the upper half of the 2% to 4% guidance range, as communicated in October 2024.

Advancing Compliance, Quality, and Sustainability in India’s Textile and Leather Sectors: OETI, an internationally accredited testing and certification institute and founding member of the OEKO-TEX® Association, announces its participation in Bharat Tex 2025, New Delhi, from February 14 to 17, 2025.

“Our participation in Bharat Tex reflects OETI’s commitment to the Indian market. As a founding member of OEKO-TEX®, we bring extensive experience to support the growing demand for quality, sustainability, and compliance with international standards by providing advanced testing and certification,” said Vignesh Amalraj, OETI’s Country Manager for India.

What Visitors Can Expect
At Bharat Tex 2025, OETI will showcase solutions tailored to the textile and leather sectors’ needs, focusing on sustainability and compliance:

• EU Sustainability Regulations: Guidance on key EU import regulations, including the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), Green Claims Directive, Digital Product Passport (DPP), and others.
• Consumer Safety, Sustainability & Transparency: Leveraging the comprehensive OEKOTEX ® product portfolio to ensure trust and traceability.
• Product Safety: Certification of PPE (personal protective equipment) for placing products on the European markets.
• Testing and certifying: Textiles, floor coverings, interior-design materials and emissions.
• Sustainable Chemical Management: ZDHC-approved training to help brands and manufacturers minimise environmental impact.
• TESTEX Academy: Insights into the online learning platform developed by Swiss-based TESTEX AG, OETI’s parent company, in collaboration with FutureWear Group. The platform covers critical topics like the Circular Economy and the EU Waste Framework. “OETI’s strategy for the Indian market focuses on empowering businesses to meet global standards in compliance, quality, and sustainability, enhancing global competitiveness. By participating in Bharat Tex, and as a founding member of the OEKO-TEX® Association, we aim to help Indian industries navigate complex challenges and deliver transparency and due diligence across the supply chain,” added Dr Miriam Scheffelmeier, OETI’s Global Head of Marketing and Sales.

AIMPLAS will focus in this phase on the dissolution of PVC in textile waste and the chemical recycling of polyurethane foams. tExtended solutions are to be soon tested on a Europe-wide level and replication potential is to be studied regionally. Activities will also involve local community actors in the development and improvement of its blueprint.

The focus on finding solutions to the growing issue of textile waste is growing at both European and global levels. The EU-funded project tExtended is spearheading innovation in this area with the development of a blueprint, a knowledge-based masterplan to develop and demonstrate effective textile recovery, reuse, waste valorisation, and recycling processes.

After two years of extensive research, tExtended is now entering the second phase of work. The project continues developing its Conceptual Framework, a knowledge-based solution that targets quality retention. tExtended is also preparing to test it in an Industrial-Urban symbiosis collaborative real-scale demonstrator, to show its potential to reduce textile waste by 80%.

AIMPLAS, the Plastics Technology Centre, will play a key role in several areas of this phase. Regarding the identification and classification of materials, the centre is working with advanced technologies such as optical sensors (NIR, RGB and hyperspectral cameras) in collaboration with VTT. The aim is to assess the composition of textiles to meet recycling requirements. In addition, they will develop methods to separate non-textile parts, such as electrostatic and triboelectric separation, and classify garments by type through air separation. For this, the technology centre will use equipment adapted to process textile parts on a pilot scale. In addition, they are investigating the dissolution of PVC in textile waste to facilitate the separation of other materials and improve their recycling once separated. AIMPLAS is also working on a chemical recycling process for polyurethane foams to recover polyols that can be reintegrated into polyurethane foam formulations.

These project activities will take place in different formats in all the countries of the tExtended consortium, including Finland, Sweden, Belgium, France, Ireland, Latvia, Slovakia, Spain, Portugal, and Switzerland. The real scale demonstrator will be carried out in wide collaboration on European level, but tExtended will also realize localized regional studies for the evaluation of the replication potential.

The four-year project, funded by the European Commission’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme, also focuses now on the social aspect of the textile sector by involving local community actors in the project activities. Through citizens’ participation in different actions on pre-sorting and returning used textiles, tExtended will raise their awareness about the sustainability and circularity of textiles.

The road towards the development of the tExtended masterplan for a sustainable textile ecosystem has already brought the project to reach relevant successes. Especially, the results obtained about improving upcycling processes and in designing a future data-driven circular ecosystem will influence the upcoming work towards the tExtended goals.

This project has received funding from the European Union’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme under Grant Agreement No.101091575.

When PERFORMANCE DAYS opens its doors on March 5-6, 2025, at halls C4 and C5 at Messe München, visitors will once again discover fabric innovations for Spring/Summer 2027 across the Performancewear, Bodywear, and Accessories segments. For the first time, a dedicated Wool Forum will be introduced alongside the existing Trend, Footwear, and Bodywear Forums. A jury of renowned industry experts carefully reviewed the submissions for the upcoming season and awarded a total of four prizes.

At the heart of the event, the Trend Forum will showcase the award-winning fabrics for the first time, including the winners of the PERFORMANCE AWARD and the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD. As the dedicated Footwear Area will now only appear at the fall fair, this year’s Footwear Forum will also be integrated into the Trend Forum in Hall C4. Additionally, visitors can explore the first-ever Wool Forum, located in the Wool Area, which mirrors the setup of the Bodywear Forum in the Bodywear Collective.

The jury, led by Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS, along with Clarissa Stadelmann (Product Manager), Jury Head Alexa Dehmel, Regina Goller (Head of Innovation & Future Trends), and guest juror Laura Howe, Fabric Technologist at Mountain Equipment, expressed their enthusiasm for the outstanding submissions.

Sustainability and innovation in focus: Wool makes a grand comeback
The materials were divided into 13 categories, including 3-layer membranes, baselayers, workwear, bags, waterproof 2-layer fabrics, wool, and others. A particular emphasis was placed on this season’s Focus Topic: “Certifications – Which Ones Matter?”. The top 28 fabrics from each category, along with insights from the Focus Topic compiled by CSR specialist Anna Schuster, will be presented in the Trend Forum.

Previous focus topics have significantly elevated the quality of submissions. The Fall 2024 topic, “Colorization: Chemistry is Everywhere,” spurred a rise in the use of bio-synthetic dyes. Meanwhile, the Spring 2024 theme, “The Future of Polyester: Beyond the Bottle,” showcased advancements in textile-to-textile recycling materials.

This year, developments in the categories of Membranes, Safety & Durability (including aramid fibers), and Wool particularly stood out. Wool demonstrated exceptional versatility, being used in applications ranging from windbreakers to shirts. There was also notable growth in materials such as hemp-lyocell blends, recycled polyamide, and multi-component yarns. Two standout fabrics included a “Hulk fabric” featuring color-shifting effects under tension and a luxuriously soft modal-cashmere knit.

The award-winning innovations and highlighted materials will be on display during PERFORMANCE DAYS on March 5-6, 2025, in halls C4 and C5 at Messe München.

Darryl Fournier has been appointed as the Chief Operating Officer at Suominen. He will be a member of Suominen's Executive Management Team and report to President & CEO Tommi Björnman. Fournier will start in his new position latest on February 24, 2025.

Fournier joins Suominen from Wm. T. Burnett & Co., where he worked as Vice President, Operations.

Fournier has extensive experience in production technologies, supply chain management, and sales support, with a strong focus on data-driven strategies and process improvement. “I am sure Darryl will drive our operational excellence and ensure our journey towards profitable growth,” says Tommi Björnman, President & CEO of Suominen.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued a statement commending U.S. Customs and Border Protection’s (CBP) notice of proposed rulemaking aimed at curtailing de minimis shipments that are harming the U.S. manufacturing base and U.S. consumers.

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas (17 January):
“We welcome CBP’s announced notice of proposed rulemaking exempting de minimis tariff-free benefits on imports ‘specified as trade and national security actions.’ This rulemaking represents a step forward in minimizing the impact of this disastrous loophole in U.S. trade law that has facilitated a surge of duty-free imports that are normally subject to penalty tariffs under various U.S. trade remedy statutes. Failure to collect these duties has exacerbated the flow of goods found to be in violation of U.S. trade laws that are costing American jobs and damaging our manufacturing sector.

“With this rulemaking, CBP and the administration seek to eliminate de minimis treatment for all imported products subject to U.S. trade remedies and penalties, including the current Section 301 tariffs on China. This is an important and much overdue reform.”

CBP states that the number of shipments over the past 10 years entering the United States claiming the de minimis administrative exemption has increased by more than 600%--from approximately 139 million a year in Fiscal Year 2015, to over one billion a year in FY 2023. During FY 2024, de minimis shipments rose once again to over 1.36 billion, according to CBP. The agency notes that the exponential increase ‘has created challenges for CBP’s effective enforcement of U.S. trade laws, health and safety requirements, intellectual property rights, and consumer protection rules.’     

“We have long called on the administration to use its existing authorities to mitigate the damage to our industry created by de minimis, which has functioned as a massive tariff loophole for low-cost, subsidized, and unethical Chinese imports and undermined the competitiveness of the U.S. textile industry—a key contributor to the workforce and the U.S. economy.

“The U.S. textile industry, a strategic supplier of goods to the U.S. military and PPE, is experiencing severe demand destruction fueled by 4 million de minimis shipments a day flooding our market with cheap, often illegal imports because of this outdated trade provision that rewards Chinese e-commerce platforms, importers and tariff cheaters with an open door to the U.S. market.

“The administration’s decision to initiate the rulemaking process in its final days is a significant and meaningful action for our domestic industry and that of other manufacturing sectors. We urge CBP to expedite the rulemaking process to the fullest extent possible and appreciate the agency’s strong engagement with our industry.

“Further, we strongly urge the incoming Trump administration to not only endorse this proposed rulemaking but to expeditiously implement a comprehensive solution to the growing de minimis problem beyond the action announced today. Noting the magnitude of the problem, and the inability of CBP to effectively enforce our trade laws with the flood of de minimis packages coming in daily, we are calling on President-elect Donald Trump to take immediate steps to end de minimis by executive order. We are also pressing Congress to work together with the new administration on a permanent and comprehensive solution to immediately close this disastrous loophole once and for all.

“We are strongly committed to working with CBP on the rulemaking process as well as the Trump administration and both sides of the aisle in Congress to get this done immediately to help provide relief to this most impacted industry and others. “

ACM Group, with over forty years of expertise in designing and producing accessories for leading high-fashion houses, continues to strengthen its position as a model of excellence. This commitment is marked by two significant milestones: achieving the ISO14001 certification and introducing a new Code of Ethics.

These achievements highlight ACM Group's enduring commitment to conducting business responsibly. This dedication is further reflected in its integrated and transparent communication with both internal and external stakeholders. By combining tradition, innovation, and social responsibility, ACM's ethical approach reaches all areas of the company.

ISO14001 Certification: a strong commitment to the environment
Achieved in 2024, the ISO14001 certification highlights ACM's ability to design and implement an eMective and responsible environmental management system. This milestone reflects the company's forward-looking policies, including the total recycling of water (a system inaugurated in 1992), the use of renewable energy sources, and the use of certified materials with low environmental impact. ACM also prioritizes recycled and traceable materials throughout its production chain, certified under the Global Recycled Standard (GRS).

"ISO14001 certification is a confirmation and gratification of our way of doing business: it is not the finish line, but the start of a journey towards even more ambitious goals in terms of environmental sustainability,” says ACM management. The company's approach is not limited to processes and materials but extends to every aspect of its operations. In ist outdoor spaces, ACM has recently created, in collaboration with 3Bee, a biodiversity oasis that is home to bees and other pollinating insects. This is a small gesture that demonstrates attention to environmental respect in every detail of fashion and beyond.

A Code of Ethics to chart the course
ACM's new Code of Ethics serves as a fundamental pillar to reinforce the principles that have always guided the company, with a strong focus on the well-being of the working environment in all its aspects. Transparency, respect for people, and attention to the environment are central to this document, which provides clear guidelines for responsible behavior in every professional relationship. This code is more than a formal commitment; it serves as a practical framework for ACM to build an open and constructive dialogue with customers, suppliers, and partners.

In the 2024 financial year, the global automotive industry recorded a slight decline in produc-tion of –1.1%* compared to the previous year. In this weakening environment, Autoneum in-creased its consolidated revenue in Swiss francs by CHF 36.4 million to CHF 2 338.7 million. Excluding translational effects from the conversion of local currencies into Swiss francs, revenue rose by CHF 96.1 million or 4.2% to CHF 2 398.5 million, which is in the middle of the guidance of CHF 2.3 billion to CHF 2.5 billion. Based on the preliminary figures, Autoneum expects an EBIT margin of over 5% and free cash flow of just over CHF 100 million for the 2024 financial year, thus fully confirming the guidance.

Business Group Europe achieved revenue of CHF 1 152.4 million in the 2024 financial year, an increase of CHF 78.5 million compared to CHF 1 073.9 million in the previous year. In local curren-cies, revenue grew by 9.8%. The first-time consolidation of four instead of three quarters of Borgers Automotive, which was acquired in 2023, resulted in an inorganic increase of 13.0%. Organically, revenue in local currencies declined by 3.2%, outperforming the market, which recorded a decline of 4.6%*.

Business Group North America outperformed the market in local currencies: while vehicle pro-duction fell by 1.4%* overall, Business Group North America recorded a slight increase of 1.3% in revenue. Borgers Automotive made a positive contribution of 3.0% to inorganic growth, while the organic revenue change was –1.7%. Consolidated revenue in Swiss francs amounted to CHF 884.6 million. (2023: CHF 895.9 million).

Business Group Asia generated revenue of CHF 198.3 million in Swiss francs, which was CHF 44.5 million below the previous year (2023: CHF 242.8 million). In local currencies, revenue shrank by 15.3% overall. The organic decline in revenue amounted to 16.6%, while the additional first quarter of Borgers Automotive, which was acquired in 2023, had a positive impact of 1.3% in the reporting year. The market in Asia remained stable with a growth of 0.1%*. In 2024, local Chinese vehicle manufacturers continued to gain market share in China at the expense of Japanese and European producers, which was clearly reflected in the revenue development of Business Group Asia. This trend underlines the importance of the acquisition of the Chinese Jiangsu Huanyu Group, announced on November 19, 2024, which generates over 90% of its reve-nue with Chinese car manufacturers in China and will significantly strengthen Autoneum's market position.

Business Group SAMEA (South America, Middle East and Africa) achieved revenue growth of 14.4% in local currencies, mainly due to inflation-related price increases. In Swiss francs, revenue amounted to CHF 121.4 million. This corresponds to an increase of CHF 12.4 million or 11.3% compared to the previous year.