From the Sector

Based on the data that the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has received from Member States, imports of other hazardous chemicals to the European Union (EU) decreased by 56 % in 2023.

The annual report under the Prior Informed Consent (PIC) Regulation on imports and exports of chemicals that are banned, or severely restricted, in the European Union shows that substances containing benzene continued to dominate the trade in 2023.

Benzene as a constituent of other substances in concentrations equal to, or greater than 0.1 % by weight was included in Annex I of PIC in 2022, entering into force on 1 July 2022. In 2023, it accounted for 98 % of total exports (65 147 553 tonnes) and approximately 99 % of total imports (65 739 206 tonnes).

The reported quantities for exports of other PIC chemicals in 2023 increased by 8 %, whereas imports decreased by 56 % compared to 2022. The rest of the top 6 imported and exported chemicals in 2023 were similar to those in 2022.

Exports of pesticides continued to decrease for a second year in a row. From 2022 to 2023, the reported exports of pesticides decreased by 10 % (from 192 674 to 173 451 tonnes). From 2021 to 2022, the decrease was 21 %.

Exports - 532 companies from 23 EU countries provided data to ECHA on the exports of PIC chemicals from the EU in 2023. Four EU countries (Cyprus, Estonia, Luxembourg and Malta) and the United Kingdom (Northern Ireland) declared that they had not exported PIC chemicals.

Imports - 207 companies from 23 EU countries submitted data on imports of PIC chemicals into the EU in 2023. Four EU countries (Bulgaria, Cyprus, Luxembourg and Malta) and the United Kingdom (Northern Ireland) declared that they had not imported PIC chemicals.

Article 10 of the PIC Regulation requires importers and exporters to give information about the annual trade of chemicals listed in Annex I to the regulation to their designated national authorities by 31 March of the following year. Each EU country must then provide the aggregated information to ECHA so that it can be summarised at EU level and non-confidential information can be made publicly available.

Haelixa has partnered with C&A, one of Europe’s leading fashion retailers, to advance the traceability of its organic cotton. The partnership stems from C&A’s commitment to working with others in the apparel industry to pilot and scale innovation. C&A’s targets include supporting the growth of organic cotton without synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, resulting in cleaner waterways, healthier ecosystems, and lower farmer costs.
 
The partnership between Haelixa and C&A began in 2022 with a pilot project, and since then, they have continuously worked together to trace raw materials. The result is this agreement with Haelixa to mark their organic cotton for the next three years. Using Haelixa’s DNA markers, C&A can trace the journey of its organic cotton from farm to finished garment. According to the C&A Sustainability Report, they are working with other organisations to foster organic cotton farming.  
 
Alexandre Saus-Salas, Head of Sourcing at C&A, commented, “Transparency and ethical sourcing are crucial in our supply chain. As part of our commitment to traceability, we have begun implementing Haelixa DNA within our organic supply chain. This gradual rollout will continue over multiple seasons in 2025, with an impact foreseen over the next three years.”
 
Haelixa’s solution utilises DNA markers to create a tamper-proof, verifiable traceability that tracks organic cotton throughout the supply chain. The cotton, sourced through CottonConnect, is marked with unique DNA, which acts as a specific identifier. Once applied, the cotton is tested throughout the supply chain to verify the material using forensic PCR tests. Traceability with the fiber-forward approach ensures the final garment materials are authentic.  
 
The marking ensures the authenticity of organic cotton and mitigates the risk of sourcing from regions associated with forced labour.  Using the Haelixa markers enables C&A to make reliable statements about the presence of organic cotton in its products marked at the field level (in the ginning process).
 
Patrick Strumpf, CEO of Haelixa, noted, “Trust is the foundation of transparent storytelling. By tracing organic cotton from farm to finished garment, we empower brands like C&A to tell an authentic story, fostering greater consumer confidence in their sustainability efforts.”
 
This project is one of the initiatives that C&A has undertaken to enhance accountability through its supply chain. One of the goals listed in their Sustainability Report is enabling customers to make informed choices by increasing transparency around products and the company. The traceability of organic cotton demonstrates that innovation can support business success through customer trust.

Source Fashion, Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, has announced an inspiring line-up of keynote speakers for its upcoming event, running from 18th to 20th February 2025 at Olympia London. On Wednesday 19th February, a full day of thought-provoking sessions will be headlined by industry visionaries including All Saints Founder Stuart Trevor, award-winning social entrepreneur Safia Minney MBE, and Andrew Xeni, Founder of Nobody’s Child.
 
The sessions will explore critical themes shaping the future of fashion, from sustainability to circularity and transparency, aiming to equip visitors with actionable insights to transform their brands and business practices.
 
Session Highlights:

• The Urgency of Transparency
  • Speaker: Andrew Xeni, Founder, Nobody’s Child, Fabacus and Soreto
  • Time: 11:00 AM
  • Synopsis: As transparency becomes the cornerstone of sustainability, Andrew Xeni will discuss how brands can lead the charge in accountability and ethical operations. From unveiling supply chain practices to empowering consumers, this session highlights the role of transparency in building trust and driving meaningful change in the fashion industry.
•  A Clothing Company That Doesn’t Produce Clothes
  • Speaker: Stuart Trevor, Founder, All Saints & Stuart Trevor
  • Time: 1:30 PM
  • Synopsis: In a groundbreaking fireside chat, Stuart Trevor will showcase how his company is pioneering circularity by transforming pre-owned clothes into desirable fashion pieces. By rethinking the traditional industry model, Trevor will illustrate the potential of upcycling to combat waste and redefine sustainable style.
• Ecosystem Thinking in Fashion: Redesigning for Regeneration
  • Speaker: Safia Minney MBE
  • Time: 2:10 PM
  • Synopsis: In a dynamic panel discussion, Safia Minney will explore strategies to adopt circular and regenerative models, scale these practices, and foster collaborative supply chain solutions. Featuring contributions from experts across industries, this session is set to empower visitors with practical tools for transformative change.

 The keynote sessions will be complemented by speakers from industry-leading organisations such as John Lewis, Vivo Footwear, Pepsi Co, Kingfisher, and environmental NGO WRAP. The full programme will be revealed in the coming weeks.
 
Join the Conversation
Source Fashion 2025 invites fashion professionals, sustainability advocates, and industry leaders to connect, learn, and lead the transformation of the fashion industry.
 
As Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, Source Fashion brings together a global community of brands, suppliers, and thought leaders to shape the future of ethical and sustainable fashion. Through cutting-edge events, expert-led sessions, and innovative showcases, Source Fashion champions transparency, circularity, and collaboration in the industry.

About Stuart Trevor
In 1983, Stuart Trevor was a finalist in the Paul Smith/Mont Blanc competition and in 1985 he won designer of the year at The Smirnoff Fashion awards “Menswear Day”. Aged 19 he became the first designer and main buyer for REISS. At 28 he founded All Saints and many of the clothes that continue to feature every week in the top 10 bestseller list of the high-street brand today, were designed by Trevor himself over 20 years ago.
 
About Safia Minney
Safia Minney, MBE, FRSA, is an award-winning social entrepreneur, consultant and advisor. Safia is recognised by the World Economic Forum as an Outstanding Social Entrepreneur and is a leading influencer and international speaker on sustainable fashion, sustainable supply chains, ethical business and climate action.
 
Safia founded REAL Sustainability CIC in 2019, to promote awareness and action for sustainable living and leadership. In 2022 REAL launched Fashion Declares – a bottom-up, industry wide movement to promote rapid action to redesign the fashion industry to operate within planetary boundaries.
 
About Andrew Xeni
Andrew Xeni is a visionary technology and retail entrepreneur. After building successful fashion manufacturing business suppling leading UK high street brands, Xeni went on to create eco-conscious 2023 Drapers Retailer of the Year (<£100m), Nobody’s Child, of which Marks and Spencer is a strategic investor and shareholder.
Merging both retail and technology, Xeni also founded award-winning retail tech companies Fabacus and Soreto.
 
As CEO of Fabacus, a DaaS (Data-as-a-Service) technology platform for revolutionising the licencing and retail industries, Xeni has established partnerships with a number of leading businesses within the sectors, including, Fanatics, UFC, Epic Games, Ubisoft and IMG, part of Endeavour.
 
This year, seeing the growing consumer demand for sustainably, Xeni pioneered the UK-first Digital Product Passport in a collaboration with between Fabacus and Nobody’s Child, in partnership with Coinbase.
 
Xeni is backed by a number of leading financial institutions, including iNovia Partners, led by former Google CFO, Patrick Pichette, as well as New Look founder, Tom Singh. In addition to managing a diverse portfolio of businesses, and sitting as Chairman for Nobody’s Child and Soreto, Xeni is an active angel investor.

The antitrust authorities in Germany, Austria and Poland have approved the acquisition of Heytex core business by Freudenberg Performance Materials Holding GmbH, the parent company of Mehler Texnologies. Heytex core business with three production locations (in Germany and China) and all headquarter-related functions will therefore become part of the newly-formed specialist for coated technical textiles.

With this merger, Mehler Texnologies and Heytex are expanding their technology platform and their global market presence, and increasing their R&D capacities. This will generate additional leverage for the development of innovative solutions for their joint customers.

Heytex operates worldwide; the Bramsche, Neugersdorf and Zhangjiagang sites will play a key role in the future direction of the technical textiles business at Freudenberg Performance Materials due to their good investment status and the expected synergies.

“We are delighted that Heytex has become part of Freudenberg Performance Materials. This lays the foundation for the two strong brands Mehler Texnologies and Heytex to grow together for the benefit of customers,” Dr. Andreas Raps, CEO of Freudenberg Performance Materials and Member of the Freudenberg Group Executive Council, commented. He went on to say: “Mehler Texnologies and Heytex will make up the newly-formed Coated Technical Textiles Division at Freudenberg Performance Materials. Hans-Dieter Kohake, former CEO of the Heytex Group, will contribute Heytex’s expertise to the management team. As Senior Vice President, Dr. Henk R. Randau will lead the business going forward.”

The StitchTogether National Seminar in Poland delivers the Warsaw Declaration to enhance social dialogue for the Polish textile industry

On 6 December 2024, social partners from the Polish textiles industry adopted the Warsaw Declaration, a joint commitment to work on the competitiveness of their industry. The declaration is the outcome of a 2 day meeting, organised under the EU co-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry. The meeting in Warsaw brought together representatives of the Polish textile industry, including employer associations, trade unions, education institutes and the government to discuss the future of the industry.

Poland has a long and proud tradition in textiles and clothing manufacturing, with 130,000 people employed in the sector, and 20,000 companies of which the vast majority are SMEs. But the sector is struggling due to tough global competition and price pressures. In this context, the Polish textile and clothing social partners are united in ensuring the sector can successful face the digital and green transition, while remaining competitive and resilient, with decent jobs for all.

The Warsaw Declaration includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together, but asking support of the Polish government to upgrade industrial strategies, making the textile industry more attractive with a qualified and trained workforce.

“In times of transition social dialogue is more vital than ever, employers and trade unions need to work together to anticipate the change and prepare for the future in this case to more sustainable textiles and clothing production in Poland. It is essential that the transition is a Just Transition that leaves no worker behind, and we want the transition to safeguard jobs in the sector and create new jobs, which must be decent jobs with decent pay. The transition requires support and we call on the Polish government to work with the social partners for a new sectoral industrial policy to support the sector and good industrial jobs,’’ says Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “the incoming Polish presidency of the EU is a unique opportunity to shape a Clean Industrial Deal that will strengthen the competitiveness of our companies. As our Polish textile companies clearly expressed during the event, they want to see changes on the energy costs and fair competition, instead of adding new regulations.”

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, announces a significant milestone in its partnership with C.P.L. Prodotti Chimici srl, a renowned supplier of chemical products for the textile industry. LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, a by-product of pulp production, is at the center of this collaboration. Oniverse, which also owns the renowned fashion brand Calzedonia, will use LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased for dyeing textiles in the future.

Lenzing has always developed solutions together with partners to meet the industry's requirements for a circular economy. The strategic partnerships with C.P.L., the first licensing partner for LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, and Oniverse underline the trust of customers in Lenzing's biorefinery products. In addition, Lenzing enables improved visibility of its own products for partners and customers through co-branding, whether in the textile and nonwovens sector or in the biorefinery product portfolio.

The biorefinery process at Lenzing makes optimal use of the renewable raw material wood, the starting material for pulp and fiber production, and converts it into valuable products such as bio-based acetic acid. LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, which has a carbon footprint that is more than 85 percent lower than fossil-based acetic acid, is used in the food, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, chemical and textile industries and in processes in the textile sector, such as washing, dyeing and finishing.

Inspired by Inditex, the CHT Group developed PIGMENTURA by CHT, an innovative and sustainable pigment-based dyeing process that reduces water consumption in the dyeing process by up to 96 % and 60 % of energy compared to other continuous dyeing processes.

On December 2nd, 2024 the pigment-based dyeing process PIGMENTURA of CHT Germany GmbH was awarded with the German Ecodesign Award in the Product category.

The German Ecodesign Award honors designers, companies and students from Germany and Europe whose work make an important contribution to the sustainable transformation of the German economy and society. The award has been granted annually since 2012 by the German Ministry for the Environment and the German Environment Agency in cooperation with the International Design Center Berlin.

Dr. Annegret Vester, Chief Sustainability Officer at CHT, about PIGMENTURA:
“PIGMENTURA is an example of how completely new processes can be developed when existing processes are being rethought: The starting point was traditional pigment dyeing where the pigments have to be “bound” to the textile using special components. PIGMENTURA follows the idea of adsorbing pigments on the surface and thus simplifying the process.

It was a highlight when it became clear what great savings potential can be achieved in the dyeing process with PIGMENTURA. The classic reactive dyeing of textiles is associated with very high energy and water consumption.

There were numerous obstacles to overcome during the development phase, as each individual process step had to be developed to process maturity. Added to this is the diversity of textiles, which leads to significant changes in dyeing behavior, which we have now been able to standardize with PIGMENTURA.“

PIGMENTURA by CHT is already in use in the fashion industry worldwide.

On December 4, 2024 Borealis proudly announced the winners of the Borealis Scientific Innovation Award 2024 (BSIA) at the Borealis Innovation Day in Linz, Austria.

As a global industry leader, Borealis is rewarding pioneering ideas since 2008 with the Borealis Scientific Innovation Award, celebrating groundbreaking innovations with the potential to impact the world. This year’s focus was on new solutions for the environmentally sustainable production and use of plastics.

Innovative thinkers from the professional and academic scientific communities, entrepreneurs, start-ups, and university researchers were invited to submit their ideas. The winners were selected by a panel from Borealis' research team, who meticulously evaluated all submissions.

This year, submissions were accepted in the following key areas:

• New catalysts for sustainable production
• Energy-efficient polymerization processes
• Recycling of polymers
• Polymeric materials for energy transition

Winners of the 2024 Borealis Scientific Innovation Award 2024:

• First place: Clement Collins Rice (University of Oxford, UK) “Towards designer polyolefins: highly tuneable olefin copolymerisation using a single permethyl-indenyl post-metallocene Catalyst”
• Second place: Elisabetta Carrieri (Ghent University, Belgium) “Development of a solvent based recycling process for agricultural film”
• Third place: Esun Selvam (University of Delaware, USA) “Recycling polyolefin plastic waste at short contact times via rapid joule heating”

In addition to receiving monetary prizes, the winners were invited to the Borealis Innovation Headquarters in Linz, Austria, where they participated in the award ceremony during the Borealis Innovation Day 2024.  

The next call for applications for the BSIA will start in spring 2025.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will present its full range of high- performance materials for footwear at Inspiramais on January 21st and 22nd, 2025 in Porto Alegre, Brazil. The global leading manufacturer of performance materials will highlight its latest technical and sustainable innovations tailored for the shoe industry, including microfibers, counterliners, liners, interlinings, reinforcements, insoles, and membranes. At Inspiramais, designers and footwear professionals can meet with Brazil-based Freudenberg experts to support them design and develop products in line with the industry's evolving demands for performance and environmental responsibility.

Freudenberg’s presentation at the event underscores its commitment to innovation and sustainability within the industry. In line with its sustainability goals, Freudenberg has increased the proportion of products in its portfolio that incorporate recycled content and employ solvent-free and binder-free manufacturing processes. The company's efforts are exemplified by its range of vamp liners, reinforcements, and strobel insoles, which contain between 35% to 100% recycled material. The new insoles and reinforcements for sports shoes have recycled fiber content and provide high tensile and tear resistance at the same time.

Vegan suede
Additionally, Freudenberg is introducing a solvent-free vegan suede material, crafted from microfiber nonwovens, which offers both breathability and versatility in dyeing—a suitable choice for upper and facing in casual and athletic shoes.

Innovations for safety shoes and others
Freudenberg's advancements also extend to the realm of safety footwear, with the introduction of specialized insoles that are resistant to perforation and suitable for PU injection, as well as electrically conductive. Moreover, the company has developed breathable waterproof membranes that can be integrated into liners and interliners, enhancing both comfort and protection for safety shoes, boots, and waterproof footwear.

The company's new range of high performance counterliners is another highlight, designed to cater to a diverse array of footwear categories, including women's, men's, children's, safety shoes, boots, and athletic shoes. These counterliners are distinguished by their breathability, color variety, and superior abrasion resistance.

In cotton cultivation, soil quality and the associated fertility and health of the soil play a key role. For this reason, the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) in Washington has carried out an ambitious research project on this topic in collaboration with various international partner organisations – with promising results.

New and old methods
Soil health has long been the focus of agriculture and therefore also of cotton cultivation. The International Cotton Advisory Committee has repeatedly emphasised the importance of soil health for cotton farming in the past. The focus was particularly on the situation in developing countries, where yields are still low compared to those in developed countries. An ICAC team has now developed a special programme to improve soil health, based on studies by international research teams and practical experience. The aim is to help cotton producers to achieve better, higher quality crop yields in healthy soil and, at the same time, contribute to climate protection with traditional, sustainable agricultural methods for soil cultivation that have been used for years. Valuable biomaterials are produced using various composting and fermentation methods.

The building blocks of soil improvement
Biochar, bokashi and jeevamrit are important components of proven methods for soil improvement. All three are seen as beneficial products for promoting sustainable agricultural practices. They are inexpensive to produce and, when combined and mixed, they offer effective solutions for restoring degraded, i.e. quality-reduced soils of varying consistency. This is a constant challenge, especially in African regions.

Biochar
Following the recommendations of the ICAC, biochar is produced using the ‘Cone Pit Open-Earth Kiln’ technique. This involves burning the cotton stalks left over from the harvest.
The production of biochar is rooted in history: evidence shows that indigenous peoples in the Amazon used a form called ‘terra preta’ to enrich the soil over 1,000 years ago. In modern-day agriculture, the use of biochar has been rapidly gaining momentum over the last ten years. Africa in particular has seen a significant increase. The ICAC team discovered that biochar is particularly useful for improving acidic soils due to its high pH value (8.0 to 11.0). However, in neutral and alkaline soils, biochar can increase the pH of the soil, potentially leading to lower yields. To counteract this, the ICAC team recommends mixing biochar with bokashi compost.

Bokashi
Bokashi is a type of compost originating from Japan that is traditionally produced through a fermentation process using kitchen waste, agricultural residues and effective microorganisms. Bokashi has a highly acidic pH value of 3.5, which makes it an ideal material for balancing the alkalinity of biochar. According to the ICAC, combining biochar with bokashi compost in the right ratios can result in a balanced soil pH of around 6.5, which is ideal for most plants. This method not only neutralises the pH value of the biochar, but also provides essential nutrients for soil organisms and plants.

Jeevamrit
To further improve soil quality where necessary, the ICAC team introduced jeevamrit. Jeevamrit is a traditional Indian method that provides soils with a variety of microorganisms. The production of jeevamrit, which involves processing cow dung and sugarcane molasses, provides a rich source of beneficial microbes that improve nutrient availability and promote soil regeneration.

When biochar, bokashi and jeevamrit are combined, they form the basis for regenerative agriculture. Studies show that biochar improves soil structure, bokashi provides nutrients and jeevamrit promotes microbial diversity, leading to healthier soils, increased productivity and sustainability in agriculture.

Training initiatives promote knowledge
Over the past three years, training courses on regenerative agriculture have been held in Africa, India and Bangladesh. A total of 16 organisations were involved. The training focused on three main technologies: bokashi composting, the ICAC practices for biochar production and jeevamrit for inoculating soils with a variety of soil microbes. The programmes have made the production techniques accessible to smallholder farmers in particular, leading to widespread adoption and improved soil quality.