From the Sector

Advancing Compliance, Quality, and Sustainability in India’s Textile and Leather Sectors: OETI, an internationally accredited testing and certification institute and founding member of the OEKO-TEX® Association, announces its participation in Bharat Tex 2025, New Delhi, from February 14 to 17, 2025.

“Our participation in Bharat Tex reflects OETI’s commitment to the Indian market. As a founding member of OEKO-TEX®, we bring extensive experience to support the growing demand for quality, sustainability, and compliance with international standards by providing advanced testing and certification,” said Vignesh Amalraj, OETI’s Country Manager for India.

What Visitors Can Expect
At Bharat Tex 2025, OETI will showcase solutions tailored to the textile and leather sectors’ needs, focusing on sustainability and compliance:

• EU Sustainability Regulations: Guidance on key EU import regulations, including the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), Green Claims Directive, Digital Product Passport (DPP), and others.
• Consumer Safety, Sustainability & Transparency: Leveraging the comprehensive OEKOTEX ® product portfolio to ensure trust and traceability.
• Product Safety: Certification of PPE (personal protective equipment) for placing products on the European markets.
• Testing and certifying: Textiles, floor coverings, interior-design materials and emissions.
• Sustainable Chemical Management: ZDHC-approved training to help brands and manufacturers minimise environmental impact.
• TESTEX Academy: Insights into the online learning platform developed by Swiss-based TESTEX AG, OETI’s parent company, in collaboration with FutureWear Group. The platform covers critical topics like the Circular Economy and the EU Waste Framework. “OETI’s strategy for the Indian market focuses on empowering businesses to meet global standards in compliance, quality, and sustainability, enhancing global competitiveness. By participating in Bharat Tex, and as a founding member of the OEKO-TEX® Association, we aim to help Indian industries navigate complex challenges and deliver transparency and due diligence across the supply chain,” added Dr Miriam Scheffelmeier, OETI’s Global Head of Marketing and Sales.

AIMPLAS will focus in this phase on the dissolution of PVC in textile waste and the chemical recycling of polyurethane foams. tExtended solutions are to be soon tested on a Europe-wide level and replication potential is to be studied regionally. Activities will also involve local community actors in the development and improvement of its blueprint.

The focus on finding solutions to the growing issue of textile waste is growing at both European and global levels. The EU-funded project tExtended is spearheading innovation in this area with the development of a blueprint, a knowledge-based masterplan to develop and demonstrate effective textile recovery, reuse, waste valorisation, and recycling processes.

After two years of extensive research, tExtended is now entering the second phase of work. The project continues developing its Conceptual Framework, a knowledge-based solution that targets quality retention. tExtended is also preparing to test it in an Industrial-Urban symbiosis collaborative real-scale demonstrator, to show its potential to reduce textile waste by 80%.

AIMPLAS, the Plastics Technology Centre, will play a key role in several areas of this phase. Regarding the identification and classification of materials, the centre is working with advanced technologies such as optical sensors (NIR, RGB and hyperspectral cameras) in collaboration with VTT. The aim is to assess the composition of textiles to meet recycling requirements. In addition, they will develop methods to separate non-textile parts, such as electrostatic and triboelectric separation, and classify garments by type through air separation. For this, the technology centre will use equipment adapted to process textile parts on a pilot scale. In addition, they are investigating the dissolution of PVC in textile waste to facilitate the separation of other materials and improve their recycling once separated. AIMPLAS is also working on a chemical recycling process for polyurethane foams to recover polyols that can be reintegrated into polyurethane foam formulations.

These project activities will take place in different formats in all the countries of the tExtended consortium, including Finland, Sweden, Belgium, France, Ireland, Latvia, Slovakia, Spain, Portugal, and Switzerland. The real scale demonstrator will be carried out in wide collaboration on European level, but tExtended will also realize localized regional studies for the evaluation of the replication potential.

The four-year project, funded by the European Commission’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme, also focuses now on the social aspect of the textile sector by involving local community actors in the project activities. Through citizens’ participation in different actions on pre-sorting and returning used textiles, tExtended will raise their awareness about the sustainability and circularity of textiles.

The road towards the development of the tExtended masterplan for a sustainable textile ecosystem has already brought the project to reach relevant successes. Especially, the results obtained about improving upcycling processes and in designing a future data-driven circular ecosystem will influence the upcoming work towards the tExtended goals.

This project has received funding from the European Union’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme under Grant Agreement No.101091575.

When PERFORMANCE DAYS opens its doors on March 5-6, 2025, at halls C4 and C5 at Messe München, visitors will once again discover fabric innovations for Spring/Summer 2027 across the Performancewear, Bodywear, and Accessories segments. For the first time, a dedicated Wool Forum will be introduced alongside the existing Trend, Footwear, and Bodywear Forums. A jury of renowned industry experts carefully reviewed the submissions for the upcoming season and awarded a total of four prizes.

At the heart of the event, the Trend Forum will showcase the award-winning fabrics for the first time, including the winners of the PERFORMANCE AWARD and the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD. As the dedicated Footwear Area will now only appear at the fall fair, this year’s Footwear Forum will also be integrated into the Trend Forum in Hall C4. Additionally, visitors can explore the first-ever Wool Forum, located in the Wool Area, which mirrors the setup of the Bodywear Forum in the Bodywear Collective.

The jury, led by Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS, along with Clarissa Stadelmann (Product Manager), Jury Head Alexa Dehmel, Regina Goller (Head of Innovation & Future Trends), and guest juror Laura Howe, Fabric Technologist at Mountain Equipment, expressed their enthusiasm for the outstanding submissions.

Sustainability and innovation in focus: Wool makes a grand comeback
The materials were divided into 13 categories, including 3-layer membranes, baselayers, workwear, bags, waterproof 2-layer fabrics, wool, and others. A particular emphasis was placed on this season’s Focus Topic: “Certifications – Which Ones Matter?”. The top 28 fabrics from each category, along with insights from the Focus Topic compiled by CSR specialist Anna Schuster, will be presented in the Trend Forum.

Previous focus topics have significantly elevated the quality of submissions. The Fall 2024 topic, “Colorization: Chemistry is Everywhere,” spurred a rise in the use of bio-synthetic dyes. Meanwhile, the Spring 2024 theme, “The Future of Polyester: Beyond the Bottle,” showcased advancements in textile-to-textile recycling materials.

This year, developments in the categories of Membranes, Safety & Durability (including aramid fibers), and Wool particularly stood out. Wool demonstrated exceptional versatility, being used in applications ranging from windbreakers to shirts. There was also notable growth in materials such as hemp-lyocell blends, recycled polyamide, and multi-component yarns. Two standout fabrics included a “Hulk fabric” featuring color-shifting effects under tension and a luxuriously soft modal-cashmere knit.

The award-winning innovations and highlighted materials will be on display during PERFORMANCE DAYS on March 5-6, 2025, in halls C4 and C5 at Messe München.

Darryl Fournier has been appointed as the Chief Operating Officer at Suominen. He will be a member of Suominen's Executive Management Team and report to President & CEO Tommi Björnman. Fournier will start in his new position latest on February 24, 2025.

Fournier joins Suominen from Wm. T. Burnett & Co., where he worked as Vice President, Operations.

Fournier has extensive experience in production technologies, supply chain management, and sales support, with a strong focus on data-driven strategies and process improvement. “I am sure Darryl will drive our operational excellence and ensure our journey towards profitable growth,” says Tommi Björnman, President & CEO of Suominen.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued a statement commending U.S. Customs and Border Protection’s (CBP) notice of proposed rulemaking aimed at curtailing de minimis shipments that are harming the U.S. manufacturing base and U.S. consumers.

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas (17 January):
“We welcome CBP’s announced notice of proposed rulemaking exempting de minimis tariff-free benefits on imports ‘specified as trade and national security actions.’ This rulemaking represents a step forward in minimizing the impact of this disastrous loophole in U.S. trade law that has facilitated a surge of duty-free imports that are normally subject to penalty tariffs under various U.S. trade remedy statutes. Failure to collect these duties has exacerbated the flow of goods found to be in violation of U.S. trade laws that are costing American jobs and damaging our manufacturing sector.

“With this rulemaking, CBP and the administration seek to eliminate de minimis treatment for all imported products subject to U.S. trade remedies and penalties, including the current Section 301 tariffs on China. This is an important and much overdue reform.”

CBP states that the number of shipments over the past 10 years entering the United States claiming the de minimis administrative exemption has increased by more than 600%--from approximately 139 million a year in Fiscal Year 2015, to over one billion a year in FY 2023. During FY 2024, de minimis shipments rose once again to over 1.36 billion, according to CBP. The agency notes that the exponential increase ‘has created challenges for CBP’s effective enforcement of U.S. trade laws, health and safety requirements, intellectual property rights, and consumer protection rules.’     

“We have long called on the administration to use its existing authorities to mitigate the damage to our industry created by de minimis, which has functioned as a massive tariff loophole for low-cost, subsidized, and unethical Chinese imports and undermined the competitiveness of the U.S. textile industry—a key contributor to the workforce and the U.S. economy.

“The U.S. textile industry, a strategic supplier of goods to the U.S. military and PPE, is experiencing severe demand destruction fueled by 4 million de minimis shipments a day flooding our market with cheap, often illegal imports because of this outdated trade provision that rewards Chinese e-commerce platforms, importers and tariff cheaters with an open door to the U.S. market.

“The administration’s decision to initiate the rulemaking process in its final days is a significant and meaningful action for our domestic industry and that of other manufacturing sectors. We urge CBP to expedite the rulemaking process to the fullest extent possible and appreciate the agency’s strong engagement with our industry.

“Further, we strongly urge the incoming Trump administration to not only endorse this proposed rulemaking but to expeditiously implement a comprehensive solution to the growing de minimis problem beyond the action announced today. Noting the magnitude of the problem, and the inability of CBP to effectively enforce our trade laws with the flood of de minimis packages coming in daily, we are calling on President-elect Donald Trump to take immediate steps to end de minimis by executive order. We are also pressing Congress to work together with the new administration on a permanent and comprehensive solution to immediately close this disastrous loophole once and for all.

“We are strongly committed to working with CBP on the rulemaking process as well as the Trump administration and both sides of the aisle in Congress to get this done immediately to help provide relief to this most impacted industry and others. “

ACM Group, with over forty years of expertise in designing and producing accessories for leading high-fashion houses, continues to strengthen its position as a model of excellence. This commitment is marked by two significant milestones: achieving the ISO14001 certification and introducing a new Code of Ethics.

These achievements highlight ACM Group's enduring commitment to conducting business responsibly. This dedication is further reflected in its integrated and transparent communication with both internal and external stakeholders. By combining tradition, innovation, and social responsibility, ACM's ethical approach reaches all areas of the company.

ISO14001 Certification: a strong commitment to the environment
Achieved in 2024, the ISO14001 certification highlights ACM's ability to design and implement an eMective and responsible environmental management system. This milestone reflects the company's forward-looking policies, including the total recycling of water (a system inaugurated in 1992), the use of renewable energy sources, and the use of certified materials with low environmental impact. ACM also prioritizes recycled and traceable materials throughout its production chain, certified under the Global Recycled Standard (GRS).

"ISO14001 certification is a confirmation and gratification of our way of doing business: it is not the finish line, but the start of a journey towards even more ambitious goals in terms of environmental sustainability,” says ACM management. The company's approach is not limited to processes and materials but extends to every aspect of its operations. In ist outdoor spaces, ACM has recently created, in collaboration with 3Bee, a biodiversity oasis that is home to bees and other pollinating insects. This is a small gesture that demonstrates attention to environmental respect in every detail of fashion and beyond.

A Code of Ethics to chart the course
ACM's new Code of Ethics serves as a fundamental pillar to reinforce the principles that have always guided the company, with a strong focus on the well-being of the working environment in all its aspects. Transparency, respect for people, and attention to the environment are central to this document, which provides clear guidelines for responsible behavior in every professional relationship. This code is more than a formal commitment; it serves as a practical framework for ACM to build an open and constructive dialogue with customers, suppliers, and partners.

In the 2024 financial year, the global automotive industry recorded a slight decline in produc-tion of –1.1%* compared to the previous year. In this weakening environment, Autoneum in-creased its consolidated revenue in Swiss francs by CHF 36.4 million to CHF 2 338.7 million. Excluding translational effects from the conversion of local currencies into Swiss francs, revenue rose by CHF 96.1 million or 4.2% to CHF 2 398.5 million, which is in the middle of the guidance of CHF 2.3 billion to CHF 2.5 billion. Based on the preliminary figures, Autoneum expects an EBIT margin of over 5% and free cash flow of just over CHF 100 million for the 2024 financial year, thus fully confirming the guidance.

Business Group Europe achieved revenue of CHF 1 152.4 million in the 2024 financial year, an increase of CHF 78.5 million compared to CHF 1 073.9 million in the previous year. In local curren-cies, revenue grew by 9.8%. The first-time consolidation of four instead of three quarters of Borgers Automotive, which was acquired in 2023, resulted in an inorganic increase of 13.0%. Organically, revenue in local currencies declined by 3.2%, outperforming the market, which recorded a decline of 4.6%*.

Business Group North America outperformed the market in local currencies: while vehicle pro-duction fell by 1.4%* overall, Business Group North America recorded a slight increase of 1.3% in revenue. Borgers Automotive made a positive contribution of 3.0% to inorganic growth, while the organic revenue change was –1.7%. Consolidated revenue in Swiss francs amounted to CHF 884.6 million. (2023: CHF 895.9 million).

Business Group Asia generated revenue of CHF 198.3 million in Swiss francs, which was CHF 44.5 million below the previous year (2023: CHF 242.8 million). In local currencies, revenue shrank by 15.3% overall. The organic decline in revenue amounted to 16.6%, while the additional first quarter of Borgers Automotive, which was acquired in 2023, had a positive impact of 1.3% in the reporting year. The market in Asia remained stable with a growth of 0.1%*. In 2024, local Chinese vehicle manufacturers continued to gain market share in China at the expense of Japanese and European producers, which was clearly reflected in the revenue development of Business Group Asia. This trend underlines the importance of the acquisition of the Chinese Jiangsu Huanyu Group, announced on November 19, 2024, which generates over 90% of its reve-nue with Chinese car manufacturers in China and will significantly strengthen Autoneum's market position.

Business Group SAMEA (South America, Middle East and Africa) achieved revenue growth of 14.4% in local currencies, mainly due to inflation-related price increases. In Swiss francs, revenue amounted to CHF 121.4 million. This corresponds to an increase of CHF 12.4 million or 11.3% compared to the previous year.

The undersigned PROs and business associations launched the Textile PRO Forum, a unique voluntary initiative designed to harmonise and share best practices for effective and efficient implementation of the Extended Producer Responsibility for textiles and footwear (Textiles EPR) across Europe.

As Europe prepares for the mandatory separate collection of textile waste and with the revision of the Waste Framework Directive entering its final stage, the EPR schemes have become a cornerstone of the European strategy for sustainability and circularity of textiles.

These EPR schemes and the related PROs will operate differently in each EU Member State, reflecting national legislation, market conditions, and infrastructure. While this diversity reflects local features, it also presents a challenge for efficiency and for businesses which will face the complexity of up to 27 different EPR models for textiles.

The Textile PRO Forum addresses this need by bringing together experienced PROs and national business associations engaged in the implementation of the Textile EPRs. Its mission is to foster collaboration, harmonization, and knowledge-sharing among the Textile EPR Producer Responsibility Organizations (PROs).

Initiated by Refashion, the first PRO for textiles, and by EURATEX, the European Textile and Apparel Confederation, the Textile PRO Forum is coordinated by EURATEX. The initial key activities include the Forum set up and the following strategic workstreams:

• Reduce administrative burden
• Harmonize approaches to implement the eco-modulation fees, set by legislation
• Supporting recycling
• Harmonise framework
• Set up, creation and expansion of PROs

List of the participating organizations

1. Asociación para la Gestión del Residuo Textil y Calzado
2. ATOK
3. Cobat Tessile
4. Comeos
5. Creamoda
6. Danish Fashion & Textile
7. Electrao
8. Erion Textiles
9. EURATEX
10. Fedustria
11. Finnish Textile & Fashion
12. Gesamtverband Textil- und Mode
13. Inretail
14. Modint
15. Reconomy / Redress
16. Recydata
17. Refashion
18. RETEX.Green
19. Retur
20. REFABRIK
21. Stichting Producentenorganisatie UPV Textiel
22. TEKO – Swedish Textile and Fashion Industries

It is getting exciting again in Cologne on 12 and 13 March for the cellulose fibres industry. Six new products have been nominated for the popular innovation award.

Every year, the conference organisator nova-Institute together with award sponsor GIG Karasek honours companies that impress with their creativity, technological progress and ecological impact. The aim of the award is not only to recognise the winners’ innovative products, but also to set an example for the courage to innovate.

The nominees’ presentations, the voting and the winner ceremony will take place on 12 March at the Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025. Participants of the conference can vote live for the three winners. More than 220 people are expected to attend.

The Nominees

Fibers365 (DE): Hemp365 – Agricultural Decorative and Carrier Material
The solution “hemp365” is characterised by the development of a cost-effective, plant-based decorative and carrier material through the chemical-free processing of a regional agricultural fibre and the use of resulting short fibres in a wet-laid process, allowing for a massive reduction in the amount of fossil based binders required for strength and functionality. The non fibre content is less than 7 % and is also made from biogenic and biodegradable material. Hemp365 is 100% natural and vegan. It has been designed for consumer (fashion) and industrial applications in cooperation with an automotive OEM.

Releaf Paper France (FR): Releaf Fiber – Eco-Friendly Paper from Urban Fallen Leaves
Releaf Paper France transforms urban fallen leaves into sustainable cellulose fibres, offering an eco-friendly alternative to traditional hardwood pulp. Using proprietary low-temperature extraction, high-quality fibres with excellent paper-forming properties are isolated. With a cellulose content of 32-48 % and properties similar to hardwood, RELEAF fibres are ideal for packaging materials like corrugated paper, boxes, and bags. This innovative process, which requires minimal water and non-aggressive solvents, aligns with circular economy principles, repurposing millions of tons of urban leaf waste annually and supporting global brands in achieving sustainable packaging solutions.

SA-Dynamics (DE): Cellulose Aerogel Textiles – Next-Generation Insulation Materials
Cellulose Aerogel Textiles are revolutionary insulation materials made from 100 % biodegradable cellulose aerogel fibres. These combine the flexibility and ease of processing of traditional fabrics with the superior thermal insulation properties of aerogels by utilising a novel aerogel fibre process. Lightweight, highly efficient, and compatible with conventional textile machinery, they provide a sustainable alternative to fossil-based and animal-derived insulation materials. Fully recyclable and free from microplastic emissions, Cellulose Aerogel Textiles set a new benchmark for circular economy solutions in the textile and construction industries. Initial functional demonstrators were developed through two projects, funded by Biotexfuture and RWTH Innovation, respectively.

Sci-Lume Labs (US): Bylon® – Renewable Circular Fibres from Agricultural Waste
Sci-Lume Labs makes Bylon®, a scalable, circular, biosynthetic fibre. Using highly efficient chemistries to valorise agricultural waste, Bylon® seamlessly integrates into every step of the global value chain – from raw material production through textile manufacturing. Bylon® is distinct from incumbent and next-gen materials because it is simultaneously bio-based; waste-derived; degradable; recyclable; downstream-compatible; and melt-spinnable. Bylon® also offers a unique performance profile by combining the mechanical properties and tunability of traditional synthetics with the moisture properties and circularity of natural fibres. By not requiring changes to the supply chain, Bylon® empowers the industry to reduce its environmental impact – without compromising on quality, performance, or cost.

TMG Automotive (PT): REFIBER – Sustainable Automotive Surface Material
Textile-based composite solutions are a growing trend in the automotive sector, especially for decorative and functional interior applications. Innovative plant-based leather demonstrates this trend, combining sustainability with advanced performance. Developed from a biopolymer matrix combined with cellulose waste, this material transforms waste into a premium, eco-friendly solution. Its textile backing and non-woven laminate backing are also made entirely from cellulose fibres, creating a fully integrated bio-based composite. Designed for car interiors and more, this lightweight, durable and aesthetically versatile material sets a new standard for sustainable design, while satisfying the industry’s growing demand for circular and renewable alternatives.

Uluu (AU): Replacing plastic in textiles with natural, seaweed-derived materials
Uluu is an Australian start-up set to replace plastics with natural polymers called PHAs. Uluu materials are made from a regenerative feedstock: farmed seaweed, thus ending reliance on fossil fuels and land crops. Uluu, in partnership with Deakin University, is developing textiles that perform like synthetic polyester but are truly biodegradable and biocompatible, thus eliminating persistent microplastic pollution in fashion. Importantly, Uluu materials are reusable, recyclable, and most importantly, compostable. They are naturally produced through a unique fermentation process that uses seaweed, saltwater microbes and seawater. Uluu pellets can be directly substituted for plastic (e.g., polyester, nylon) in existing melt spinning equipment, creating yarns that can be knitted or woven into textiles. In addition to fibre-grade pellets, Uluu is also producing other grades of pellets to replace plastics used in e.g., buttons, sunglasses, hair clips and packaging.

Indorama Ventures exhibited the Trevira CS® brand together with 17 Trevira CS partner companies at the Heimtextil trade fair in Frankfurt, Germany, from January 14-17, 2025.

This year Trevira CS is celebrating its 45th anniversary! In 1980 Trevira CS® was launched on the market, at that time a pioneer for permanently flame retardant textiles whose flame retardant properties neither wash out nor are lost through ageing or use. They are characterized by the fact that they meet all essential fire protection standards without the need for a chemical finish. Fabrics made from specially produced flame-retardant polyester can be labeled as Trevira CS after passing a brand test. Samples, brochures, pictures and short anecdotes from 45 years of Trevira CS will be on display in a special area of the exhibition stand, inviting visitors to browse and smile.

In the anniversary year the focus of the Trevira CS® joint stand will be on permanent flame retardancy and the sustainability approaches of Trevira CS fabrics, which are known for their outstanding properties and versatility in the textile industry. Not only will the latest yarn and fabric developments from the 17 partners be presented, the three sustainability approaches from 1. pre-consumer recycling, 2. the Trevira CS take-back concept in cooperation with the company ALTEX Textil-Recycling GmbH & Co. KG in Gronau, Germany and 3. developments from chemically recycled raw material, but also all submissions to the Trevira CS Fabric Competition 2025. This encouraged Trevira CS participants to explore the interfaces between permanent flame retardancy, textile design, functionality and safety and to submit articles for five different categories.

The BREATHAIR® brand, a 3D upholstery material, was also be presented at the trade fair. This innovative and recyclable product has been specially developed for the upholstery industry and offers new possibilities for sustainable and comfortable furniture designs. Thanks to the nature of BREATHAIR®, it can be recycled at the end of its life cycle . Visitors to the trade fair will have the opportunity to experience the unique comfort of BREATHAIR® up close in a seating lab.

The Deja™ brand is an integral part of Indorama Ventures' commitment to long-term sustainability through recycling and bio-based materials. The product portfolio includes chips, as well as various staple fibers and filament yarns in multiple titer and yarn specifications.

In cooperation with Auping and TWE, Indorama Ventures and Deja™ developed an innovative mattress consisting of two basic components. This new design allows for easier disassembly and therefore more efficient recycling. The partnership aims to promote the circular economy and reduce the environmental impact of mattresses. By using recyclable materials and reducing waste, the companies are actively contributing to a more sustainable future.