From the Sector

The Board of Management of SGL Carbon SE decided, with the approval of the Supervisory Board, to restructure the loss-making Carbon Fibers business unit. SGL Carbon will significantly reduce the business activities of Carbon Fibers and focus on a profitable core. Individual solutions are being developed for all Carbon Fibers sites, including the closure of unprofitable sites. On February 23, 2024, SGL Carbon had already announced that it was reviewing all strategic options for the Carbon Fibers business unit. The joint venture Brembo SGL Carbon Ceramic Brakes S.p.A. (BSCCB), which is allocated to the Carbon Fibers business unit for accounting purposes, is not affected by the restructuring.

A complete sale of the Business Unit Carbon Fibers was intensively evaluated, but is no longer considered feasible. Dr. Stephan Bühler, the responsible member of the Board of Management of SGL Carbon, explains: “We are in the initial phase of restructuring the Business Unit Carbon Fibers. We therefore ask for your understanding that we are currently unable to provide any specific details regarding individual site closures and the exact restructuring period. Our goal is to quickly begin the implementation in order to create clarity for our employees. We will begin the implementation of the restructuring as quickly as possible in order to contain the operating losses of CF and the associated impact on the entire SGL Carbon in the short term.”

The company is expecting one-time cash effects in the amount of approximately €50 million over the next two years due to the extensive restructuring.

Carbon Fibers produces textile, acrylic and carbon fibers at seven sites in Europe and North America, with around 870 employees. After a slump in demand for carbon fibers for the wind industry, the business unit's sales and earnings fell significantly in the course of fiscal years 2023 and 2024.

“The earlier expectations for carbon fibers as a future material for the automotive industry have not been fulfilled. The wind energy industry was also unable to compensate the shortfall in demand. In combination with increasing global over-capacities, high operating losses were incurred over the last two years, which weighed on the entire SGL Carbon,” said Andreas Klein, CEO of SGL Carbon, explaining the decision to restructure the Carbon Fiber business.

Preliminary sales and adjusted EBITDA 2024
Based on preliminary figures, Carbon Fibers generated sales of around €210 million in fiscal year 2024 (previous year: €224.9 million). According to preliminary figures, the negatively adjusted EBITDA of Carbon Fibers, excluding the share of the earnings of the joint venture BSCCB, amounted to around minus €27 million in fiscal year 2024 (previous year: minus €10.9 million), as expected.

The continued weak business development of Carbon Fibers also impacts the group. Based on preliminary figures, group sales of SGL Carbon amounted to approximately €1,026 million (previous year: €1,089.1 million) in fiscal year 2024. Preliminary adjusted EBITDA for the group of approximately €163 million was slightly below the prior-year level (2023: €168.4 million), but in line with the given guidance for 2024. Based on the current economic conditions and forecasts for some of our markets, such as the automotive and semiconductor industries, SGL Carbon expects the market environment to remain challenging in 2025.

Further information on the business development in 2024 and the final financial figures can be found in the SGL Carbon Annual Report, which will be published together with the outlook for the current fiscal year on March 20, 2025.

In the fourth quarter of 2024, the index of orders for Italian textile machines, compiled by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a 19% decline compared to the same period in 2023. In absolute terms, the index stood at 49.6 points (base 2021=100).

This result is due to a slight increase in order intake from the domestic market, contrasted by a decline in foreign markets. Orders in Italy grew by 6%, while abroad a 22% drop was recorded. The absolute value of the index in foreign markets was 48.3 points, while in Italy, it reached 58.5 points. In the fourth quarter, the order backlog ensured 3.3 months of production.

Overall, in 2024, the index recorded a 16% decrease compared to the 2023 average. Domestically, the index grew by 10%, whereas abroad there was a 19% decline.

Marco Salvadè, president of ACIMIT, commented: “The order index for the October-December 2024 period confirms a still weak order intake. The negative trend in machinery demand continues, especially abroad. According to data updated to October 2024, our exports have declined in all major target markets in the first 10 months of the year. Except for the Chinese market, Turkey, India, the United States, and Germany have all seen a drop compared to the same period in 2023.”

Oerlikon Riri, the luxury zipper and button brand within Oerlikon Luxury, unveils its SS26 collection, where two distinct yet complementary themes redefine the essence of high-end accessories: Athletic Elegance and Neoclassical Luxury. This season, Oerlikon Riri blends performance with sophistication and heritage with innovation, crafting a collection that embodies both contemporary dynamism and timeless refinement. With an increasing transition to stainless steel components and chains, the collection reflects Oerlikon Riri’s commitment to sustainability. The metal parts contain at least 50% recycled stainless steel, reinforcing the brand’s dedication to eco-conscious innovation.

The integration of Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) technology ensures superior durability, reduces environmental impacts, and delivers a high-quality finish. By embracing recycled materials, innovative surface treatments, and high-precision manufacturing techniques, the brand continues to set new standards for excellence in the fashion industry.

ATHLETIC ELEGANCE: Sport and Style
Luxury and sportswear have never been more intertwined. Inspired by the synergy between high fashion and elite sports connections, the Athletic Elegance theme introduces bold, highperformance accessories that echo the energy of competitive arenas while maintaining an unmistakable refinement.

This collection features high-tech finishes, cutting-edge materials, and a vibrant color palette of aquamarine and red, evoking the dynamism of movement and speed. Stainless steel pullers and precision-engineered buttons with PVD coatings further enhance the collection’s refined technical aesthetic. Among the highlights of this collection is Metamorph, a newly developed button range featuring an asymmetrical synthetic ring.

Designed for optimal functionality, it offers a firm resistance when opening while ensuring a lighter, more effortless closure compared to similar designs. Additionally, the aesthetic of the Zero button, long celebrated for its distinctive style, has been reinterpreted in a slim version, enhancing its elegance and refinement for a more sophisticated look.

NEOCLASSICAL LUXURY: Heritage and Refinement
The Neoclassical Luxury theme draws inspiration from classical Greek culture, art, and philosophy, celebrating the enduring beauty of historical aesthetics through a modern, minimalist lens. This mood presents a sacred palette of neutral tones – cream, beige, and soft brown – complemented by opulent gold and palladium finishes.

The collection introduces exquisitely crafted accessories, including zippers with Greek columninspired pullers, diamond-embellished details, and high-quality natural stones. A prominent feature is the MIM (Metal Injection Molding) technology, which allows for the creation of intricately shaped components with exceptional durability and mechanical properties, reinforcing Oerlikon Riri’s technical expertise.

In keeping with the brand’s sustainability strategy, stainless steel zippers and buttons, alongside increased PVD applications, highlight the shift toward longer-lasting, ecofriendly luxury accessories.

The successful seventh edition of IFCO Istanbul Fashion Connection took place from 5 to 8 February 2025 with 33,788 visitors. At IFCO, with 514 exhibitors met international trade visitors from 151 countries such Algeria, Canada, France, Germany, Lebanon, Malaysia, Mexico, Russia, Saudi Arabia, South Africa, Spain, the United Kingdom, the USA and the United Arab Emirates in a total of 8 halls at the Istanbul Expo Centre. The largest group of foreign visitors came from the Middle East (32.5%), Asia (25.1%), Europe (23.1%) and North Africa (14.6%). A total of 4,7% of visitors came from the USA, South America, Australia and Africa.

Source Fashion, Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, opens next Tuesday 18th February, at Olympia London, welcoming buyers, retailers, and sourcing professionals from around the world. Running until 20th February 2025, the show will host hundreds of makers and manufacturers from over 20 key sourcing regions, including Turkey, Taiwan, Ethiopia, Egypt, China, India, the UK, France, Hong Kong, and Portugal.

With leading retailers and brands such as ASOS, Barbour, Boohoo, Flannels, Frasers Group, French Connection, GANT, Hawes & Curtis, Jaded London, John Lewis, Lipsy, Lucy & Yak, ME+EM, Marks & Spencer, Moss Bros, Mothercare, New Look, Next, Oliver Bonas, Primark, Saraha, Toast, The Very Group, Whistles, already pre-registered, Source Fashion is set to be a must-attend event for businesses looking to source responsibly and discover innovative solutions to industry challenges.

A Platform for Innovation and Sustainability
The three-day event goes beyond sourcing, offering a dynamic content programme across two dedicated stages: The Source Catwalk Stage and the Source Debates Stage.

Visitors can explore the latest trends and insights into responsible fashion with The Source Catwalk Show – taking place three times daily, showcasing curated womenswear looks built from exhibitors’ collections, highlighting trends such as Circus Play, Romance, Plant Power, and Hyper Tactile.

Exhibitor Highlights
Source Fashion will feature an impressive line-up of responsible manufacturers from around the globe with the spotlight on the UK, Egypt, India, and Portugal. Highlights include:

• Dee Kay Knitwear (UK) – A leading supplier of high-quality wholesale knitwear.
• YOKA YO (UK) - Helping take designs from initial concept through to final product development.
• The Natural Fibre Company (UK) – An award-winning yarn manufacturer working with rare breeds and natural fibres.
• National Weaving (UK) – Specialists in premium woven and printed labels, with a focus on sustainability The Fashion Incubator (Egypt) – A sustainable fashion manufacturer specialising in knit, woven, sportswear, and swimwear.
• Desert Crafts Design Studio (India) – A womenswear manufacturer focused on casual and resort wear.
• WonderRaw (Portugal) – Experts in luxury blanks and fully customised garments made from 100% organic cotton.

Headline Designer: Stuart Trevor
Scottish-born fashion designer Stuart Trevor, founder of All Saints and sustainability advocate, is set to headline the Source Catwalk. After years mentoring brands with a positive social and environmental impact, Trevor’s latest label, STUART TREVOR, focuses on sustainable fashion made from repurposed materials. Trevor set out to create the world’s most sustainable brand with a mission to make buying sustainable products easier, more fun and create non-destructive clothing from other peoples’ waste. His designs will take centre stage at the Source Catwalk, demonstrating how fashion can be both stylish and sustainable.

The Source Catwalk also offers a diverse and informative programme of conversations with thought leaders, retail case studies and challenging panel discussions. Now located on the balcony, presenting leading voices within ethical fashion.

• Source Debates – A new stage for this year, providing an opportunity to voice thoughts and get involved in the conversations - tackling the industry biggest questions and challenges, from sustainability and circularity to transparency and the future of fashion sourcing.

Speaker Highlights

Source Fashion’s comprehensive speaker programme will bring together industry leaders, sustainability experts, and fashion innovators. Key sessions include:

• ‘From Fast Fashion to Circularity’ (Source Catwalk, Tuesday, 11:30 AM) – A discussion on how brands can shift towards sustainable models while competing in the fast-fashion landscape, featuring leaders from Vivo Footwear, Neem London, YOU Underwear, and Johnston’s of Elgin.
• ‘A collaborative journey from farm to fashion’ (Source Catwalk, Tuesday, 1:30pm) - explores how The Natural Fibre Company and John Smedley have forged a groundbreaking partnership, transforming heritage craftsmanship and sustainable innovation into a powerful success story.
• ‘Tech and sustainability: why data holds the key for a greener future’ (Source Catwalk, Tuesday 2:10pm) - Linda Pimmeshofer from Insider Trends explores how data-driven innovation can revolutionise fashion’s fight against emissions, with global examples and a vision for a tech-enabled future
• ‘The Urgency of Transparency’ (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 11:00 AM) – A fireside chat with Andrew Xeni, Founder of Nobody’s Child and Fabacus, on why transparency is critical in building consumer trust.
• ‘Ecosystem Thinking in Fashion: Redesigning for Regeneration’ (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 2:10 PM) - Safia Minney MBE, Founder of Fashion Declares is joined by Dr Sri Ram, Founder - Bags of Ethics, Supreme Group, Matthias Knappe, Head of Unit, International Trade Centre (ITC) and Nick Reed, Founder, Neem London for to explore scaling circular practices, adopting regenerative models, and building stronger supply chain relationships to inspire action and meaningful change.
• ‘A Clothing Company That Doesn’t Produce Clothes’ (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 1:30 PM) – Stuart Trevor in conversation about his upcycling-focused brand and the future of circular fashion.
• Designing tomorrow: Is speculative thinking the key to fashion retail's future? (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 1:30 PM) - Geraldine Wharry, Fashion Futurist, Trend Atelier on speculative design.
• ‘Taking the Lead When Legislation Falls Short’ (Source Debates, Thursday, 11:00 AM) – This session, with Safia Minney MBE, looks at how businesses can drive sustainability initiatives beyond Government mandates.
• Can fashion brands embrace sustainability without the fear of being perfect? (Source Debates, Thursday, 11:30 AM) - Jonny Rowe and Joe Russell, Co-Founders, Land of Plenty look at encouraging small wins, while questioning the common fears surrounding building out sustainable practices and the role storytelling and branding to help overcome these.

As part of an ongoing collaboration, The International Trade Centre, under the UK Trade Partnerships Programme, will showcase ethical suppliers from Ethiopia, Madagascar, Tanzania, and Nepal, providing visitors with an exclusive look at sustainable sourcing options from these regions.

The specialty chemical company DyStar announced the sale of the property housing its manufacturing facility in Charlotte, North Carolina and subsequent consolidation of Charlotte production facility. As a result of the sale, the production facility, which produces performance chemicals, textiles and leather chemicals, will be integrated within DyStar LP in Reidsville, North Carolina.  
 
DyStar has entered into an agreement with Constellation Real Estate Partners, for the land sale that currently houses DyStar Carolina Chemical Corporation. The deal is expected to be completed by Quarter 4 of 2025 and is aligned with DyStar's long-term vision for growth and development for the Americas region.
 
Following the strategic decision of the sale and subsequent consolidation of manufacturing activities, some positions will be impacted. DyStar remains committed to provide extensive support to affected employees, including offering opportunities within other sites in the United States. This move is an important part of our long-term strategy for growth, and we deeply appreciate the hard work and dedication of all our employees during this transition.
 
The move of DyStar Carolina Chemical facility to DyStar LP in Reidsville is expected to take place over the next twelve months, with an expected completion by end of 2025 or early 2026. The consolidated facility at DyStar LP, coupled with added capability from DyStar Carolina Chemical, will eventually drive DyStar Americas towards our goal of improving operational efficiency, reducing costs, and enhancing overall productivity. Customers can expect better proximity with an advanced infrastructure that is scalable for the future growth once the move is completed.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, in partnership with Nonwovens Industry magazine, announced the finalists for the 2025 IDEA® Achievement Awards. These awards recognize the most innovative new product introductions in the nonwovens and engineered materials industry since the last IDEA® event in 2022.

The IDEA® Achievement Awards celebrate excellence in product innovation across multiple categories, with nominees evaluated on creativity, novelty of approach, uniqueness, and technical sophistication. The awards will be presented during IDEA®25, the global event for nonwovens and engineered fabrics, taking place April 29-May 1, 2025, in Miami Beach, FL.

The Award Finalists are:

IDEA® Equipment Achievement Award

• Dilo Systems GmbH – MicroPunch
• GDM SPA – In Line Laminated Waistband
• Oerlikon Neumag – hycuTEC

IDEA® Long-life Achievement Award

• Egal Pads, Inc. – Egal™ Pads on a Roll
• Hempitecture Inc. – PlantPanel
• Magnera – Sontara® Home Compostable Bag

IDEA® Nonwoven Products Achievement Award

• AHLSTROM – BioProtect™
• Innovatec Microfibre Technology – InnovaWipe® Water-Soluble Nonwoven
• Periodic Products, Inc. – MetalXtract® Filter Media

IDEA® Raw Materials Achievement Award

• BASF SE – SAVIVA® B 800
• OrganoClick AB – OC-Biobinder®
• Woolchemy NZ Ltd – neweFibre

IDEA® Short-life Achievement Award

• Egal Pads, Inc. – Egal™ Pads on a Roll
• Hello Hazel, Inc. – Hazel® High & Dry Brief
• Swoobie – Swoobie Bra Liner

IDEA® Sustainability Advancement Award

• HIRO TECHNOLOGIES – The World’s First MycoDigestible™ Diapers
• KINDCLOTH™ – PURA HEALTH Insect Repellent Water-Dissolvable Wipes
• OrganoClick AB – OC-Biobinder®

The Finalists will be voted on by industry professionals and the winners will be announced live at IDEA25.

Eastman Naia™ returns to Première Vision Paris to showcase the numerous applications of Naia™ Renew staple fibers, demonstrating their transformative potential in fashion. Known for delivering luxurious comfort, fashion-forward style, and a sustainable approach, Naia™ Renew fibers want to set the standard for a more eco-conscious innovation in textile manufacturing.

Cellulosic acetate, in its usual filament fiber form, is renowned for being one of the most reliable materials for achieving that signature silky look. Naia™ Renew staple is a versatile fiber sourced from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% recycled waste material through GRS-certified mass balance accounting, using a low-impact, closed-loop process. Designed for both woven and knitted fabrics, it blends perfectly with premium materials such as wool, cashmere, and linen to create lightweight, breathable textiles. Renowned for its durability and quick-drying properties, Naia™ Renew staple enhances fabrics with a skin-friendly softness that ensures superior comfort. Its low density contributes to a refined, pearl-like luster while keeping garments lightweight.

At Première Vision, Eastman Naia™ will present a curated selection of fabrics and garments developed in collaboration with partners and brands and designed to meet the demands of today’s fashion-forward and environmentally conscious consumers.

Aligned with its core values for mainstreaming circularity, Eastman Naia™ takes the opportunity at Première Vision to celebrate its partnerships with leading mills in Europe, recognized for their advanced textile expertise and sustainability initiatives. These collaborations support the shift towards nearshoring, helping to reduce lead times, streamline logistics, and minimize transportation-related emissions, ultimately lowering the overall environmental footprint.

Over the past 30 years, Monforts and its long-standing partner, Bengal Technology and Engineering, have realised over 100 fully integrated line installations in Bangladesh.

At the forthcoming Dhaka International Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition (DTG), specialists will be on hand to provide expert advice on the wide range of services that are being provided by Monforts to the region’s dyeing and finishing sector.

The DTG takes place at the International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB) in Dhaka from February 20-23 and will showcase the technologies of over 1,000 textile machinery brands and suppliers from 31 countries across its nine halls.

The successful 30-year partnership between Monforts and Bengal Technology and Engineering in Bangladesh has grown in parallel to the rapid rise of the nation’s textiles and apparel sector – from just a handful of manufacturers to over 6,000 factories today – and in particular, its growth into the world’s second largest exporter of readymade garments (RMGs).

Hoping to build on this success, the Bangladesh government has now initiated plans to achieve exports of RMGs worth $50 billion by as early as this year – and approaching $100 billion by 2030.

To realise this, however, the reinforcement of a textile manufacturing backbone will become increasingly crucial, and Monforts contributes to ensuring the Bangladesh industry continues to grow sustainably.

EDANA Innovation Forum 2025 is open for registration, inviting pioneers from across the nonwovens industry to gather at Station F, Paris, on June 11-12, 2025. Designed as a hub for bold ideas, breakthrough technologies, and fresh perspectives, this event promises an inspiring mix of keynote sessions, interactive discussions, and innovative ideas.

This year’s forum is all about collaboration and cross-industry learning. By bringing together start-ups, researchers, scientists, and business leaders, the event aims to bridge gaps, spark new ideas, and challenge the status quo. Expect engaging workshops, thought-provoking discussions, and real-world case studies that push the boundaries of what’s possible. Whether you’re looking for fresh insights, new partners, or the next big breakthrough, this is where the future of nonwovens takes shape.

Call for Papers: Share Your Innovations!
Innovation is a condition for business continuity and growth. As such, and as part of the event, EDANA has issued a Call for Papers to welcome best practices and real-life examples for innovating in the nonwoven industry! Presentations should align with one of the three key focus areas:

• - Materials
• - Technology
• - Applications

Abstracts shall be sent to giovanna.merola@edana.org, by 20th February 2025, with the following information:

• - A suggested title
• - 3-4 bullet points
• - Contact details of the speakers