From the Sector

The ELUCENT project has successfully moved bio-based pigments from laboratory research to industrial readiness, delivering the world’s first plastic-free, toxin-free and fully biodegradable reflective pigment. Funded by Innovate UK, the 18-month collaboration brought together three partners: Sparxell, the University of Cambridge spin-out pioneering plant-based bioinspired colour technology; PANGAIA, the global materials science company applying next-generation innovations to fashion; and the Manufacturing Technology Centre (MTC), one of the UK’s leading independent research and technology organisations.

Together, they have demonstrated how science, design and engineering can deliver scalable, sustainable alternatives to conventional pigment systems. By combining Sparxell’s pioneering cellulose-based colour platform, PANGAIA’s expertise in design application, and the MTC’s ability to scale processes for industry, the project shows how interdisciplinary collaboration can reduce environmental impact without compromising creativity or performance. Sparxell, founded in 2023 out of the Cambridge laboratories by Dr Benjamin Droguet and Professor Silvia Vignolini, led the technology development. Their patented process uses cellulose, the world’s most abundant biopolymer, to create vibrant colour particles inspired by nature. Unlike conventional pigments, these are free from plastics and toxins and are fully biodegradable.

As design partner, PANGAIA tested the pigments on textiles in collaboration with London-based Orto Print Studio, producing printed fabric prototypes and testing durability. This step bridges lab innovation with real-world applications of these bio-based colourants in fashion and beyond. 

This work is part of PANGAIA’s commitment to supporting next-generation material innovators by bringing to market solutions-driven breakthroughs in material science that transform the environmental impact of fashion and design through purposeful collaborations, merging cutting-edge science with scalable applications.

The Manufacturing Technology Centre (MTC) ensured the pigments could be scaled beyond the lab, building custom production systems and validating performance at an industrial level. 

The completion of this Innovate UK project ELUCENT marks a step change for sustainable colour. Together, Sparxell, PANGAIA, and the MTC have shown how fashion and technology can join forces to deliver circular, biodegradable alternatives to today’s synthetic pigments. 

Sparxell has successfully transitioned from university research to a technically validated platform, demonstrating significant improvements in pigment formulation, liquid dispersion, and film casting performance. A commercial launch is projected for 2026.

A joint declaration presented at the Première Vision trade fair: On the occasion of the Première Vision trade fair in Villepinte, the leading European textile and clothing federations issued a solemn call for urgent action against the rapid rise of ultra fast fashion.

This model, driven by major non-European e-commerce platforms, already accounted for 4.5 billion imported parcels in the European Union in 2024—representing 5% of clothing sales (20% online)—and continues to grow at a staggering pace.

The signatories warn of the severe consequences of this phenomenon:

• Explosion of textile waste due to the overproduction of items with a very short lifespan.
• Unbearable pressure on European SMEs, committed to strict social and environmental standards.
• A direct threat to local retailers, accelerating the decline of city centers.
• Practices in breach of European rules, such as VAT fraud, counterfeiting, and unfair competition.

Key demands
The federations call on the European institutions and Member States to act without delay to:

• Enforce the reform of the European Customs Code adopted on 27 June 2025.
• Strengthen controls and sanctions through the DSA and DMA.
• Require e-commerce platforms to appoint legally authorized representatives, so they can be held accountable.
• Introduce taxation on small parcels and abolish the customs duty exemption below €150.
• Ensure VAT collection on these massive flows.
• Engage in dialogue with the Chinese authorities to regulate the practices of their platforms.

European consumers are also invited to choose durable products and support companies investing in quality and innovation.

An unprecedented and united European mobilization
The joint declaration was co-signed by Euratex – The European Apparel and Textile Confederation, UFIMH - Union française des Industries de la mode et de l’Habillement, UIT - Union des Industries Textiles, Confindustria Moda - Federazione Tessile e Moda (Italy), Fedustria (Belgium), Atok (Czech Republic), DM&T - Danish Fashion & Textile (Denmark), Finnish Textile & Fashion (Finland), Textil+Mode (Germany), SEPEE - Hellenic Fashion Industry Association (Greece), LATIA - Lituanian Apparel & Textile Industry Association (Lithuania), Modint (The Netherlands), ATP - Associação Textil e Vestuario de Portugal (Portugal), Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Serbia (Serbia), Consejo Intertextil Espanol (Spain), Swiss Textiles (Swiss), WKO - Fachverband der Textil-, Bekleidungs-, Schuh- und Lederindustrie (Austria), Anivec Apiv (Portugal), TEKO - Sveriges Textil- & Modeföretag (Sweden), Creamoda - Belgian Fashion (Belgium), Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp (european alliance of flax and hemp), PIOT - Federation of Apparel & Textiles Industry Employers (Poland).

A call to action
“Ultra fast fashion cannot become the norm. The European Union has both the means and the duty to act immediately to protect its businesses, its workers, and the environment.” – Declaration of the European textile and clothing federations

• Each European generates 132 kg of food waste and 12 kg of clothing and footwear waste per year 
• 2030 targets to reduce food waste 
• Producers to cover costs of collecting, sorting and recycling waste textiles  

September, 9 the European Parliament gave its final green light to new measures to prevent and reduce waste from food and textiles across the EU.

Cutting down food waste
The updated legislation will introduce binding food waste reduction targets, to be met at national level by 31 December 2030: 10% from food processing and manufacturing and 30% per capita from retail, restaurants, food services and households. These targets will be calculated in comparison to the amount generated as an annual average between 2021 and 2023. Following Parliament’s request, EU countries will have to take measures to ensure that economic operators having a significant role in the prevention and generation of food waste (to be identified in each country) facilitate the donation of unsold food that is safe for human consumption.

Producers to cover costs of collecting, sorting and recycling waste textiles
Producers that make textiles available in the EU will have to cover the costs of their collection, sorting and recycling, through new producer responsibility (EPR) schemes to be set up by each member state, within 30 months of the directive’s entry into force. These provisions will apply to all producers, including those using e-commerce tools and irrespective of whether they are established in an EU country or outside the Union. Micro-enterprises will have an extra year to comply with the EPR requirements.

The new rules will cover products such as clothing and accessories, hats, footwear, blankets, bed and kitchen linen, and curtains. On Parliament’s initiative, EU countries may also set up EPR schemes for mattress producers.
Member states should also address ultra-fast fashion and fast fashion practices when deciding on financial contributions to the EPR schemes.

According to the second reading rules, the President announced in plenary that the proposed act was deemed adopted (the position was already agreed by Council earlier this summer).

Next steps
The law will now be signed by both co-legislators, ahead of its publication in the EU Official Journal. EU countries will have 20 months following its entry into force to transpose the rules into national legislation.

Background
In July 2023, the Commission proposed a revision of the EU rules on waste, targeted at food and textile waste. Every year, almost 60 million tonnes of food waste (132 kg per person) and 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste are generated in the EU. Clothing and footwear alone account for 5.2 million tonnes of waste, equivalent to 12 kg of waste per person every year. It is estimated that less than 1% of all textiles worldwide are recycled into new products.

The new science web section https://echa.europa.eu/science serves as a one stop shop for ECHA’s science related work, improving its visibility and facilitating access to discussions on scientific topics. The new pages enhance the transparency of the scientific work supporting ECHA’s core tasks.

Mike Rasenberg, Director of Hazard Assessment, said:
“Science is at the heart of ECHA’s vision; chemical safety through science, collaboration and knowledge. It is a key driver helping us to reach our goals, and scientific evidence is the basis of all our regulatory decisions, opinions and advice. Our scientific knowledge base is built on close collaboration with researchers, industry and other regulatory bodies.”

The pages describe the work of ECHA’s scientific committees and expert groups and provide details on the scientific partnerships and collaborations, and highlight the Agency’s regulatory research needs. 

A new section focuses on the knowledge hub where ECHA shares the latest scientific and technical updates in the field of chemical safety. The section compiles the science seminars, conference presentations and scientific publications.

Background
ECHA is a science-based EU Agency aiming to protect health and the environment through its work on chemical safety. As a public body, it operates with transparency and integrity, prioritising the interests and well-being of EU citizens. ECHA’s funding comes from both the European Union and administrative fees from companies.

The full programme for the 93rd Textile Institute World Conference (TIWC 2025) has been announced, with over 100 presentations to be delivered in parellel sessions at the event, which takes place from October 7-10 at the Porto Palácio Hotel and Spa in Porto, Portugal.

In a comprehensive and international programme, the close collaboration between researchers on separate continents will be highlighted, with a major focus on the further development of technologies and practices assisting in the need for advanced fibre-to-fibre recycling as a means of accelerating a circular textiles economy.

Research teams working continents apart are arriving at strikingly similar solutions – circularity, digital integration, cleaner chemistry and human-centred reform are all critical. These interlocking themes will define this year’s conference.

Circularity will be one of the most prominent concepts underpinning the programme and researchers from Manchester in the UK, for example, will share their evaluation of end-of-life garments and show how almost half of those currently sent to waste could be channelled into advanced recycling. 

From Chemnitz in Germany, new knitting technology will be presented that allows higher proportions of recycled content in cotton fabrics while retaining softness and durability. 

Case studies from Bangladesh and Pakistan will meanwhile explore how local enterprises are already adopting closed-loop systems and circular business innovations, with recycled yarns reaching the supply chains of major global brands. 

Taken together, the many presentations addressing circularity will demonstrate how waste is beginning to shift from a burden to a new raw material, while also pointing to the infrastructure and policies that will be needed to make such systems commercially viable.

Alongside this, the conference will also highlight the revolution now taking place in digitalisation. 

Far from being a niche domain of design software, digital tools are becoming the backbone of sustainability itself. Work will be presented on blockchain, digital product passports and RFID systems that trace garments throughout their lifecycle, strengthening consumer trust and helping businesses meet new regulatory requirements. 

New methods of digital textile printing and open-source knitting software will also be discussed, offering designers the ability to localise production and work with greater creative agency.  

The message of these projects is clear – digitalisation is not an add-on to sustainability but one of its primary enablers.

Perhaps most significant at TWIC 2025 will be the attention given to the human dimension of sustainability. 

In Sri Lanka, small and medium-sized apparel manufacturers will be shown to face critical health and safety risks as climate change brings rising temperatures, air pollution and extreme weather. A new assessment tool will be introduced which is helping firms build resilience and protect workers. 

The Sustainable Fibre Alliance will also demonstrate how cashmere herders, traders and processors in Mongolia are being engaged in a collective effort to reduce rangeland degradation and safeguard livelihoods. 

UK fashion educators will further share approaches to preparing the next generation to embrace circular models and ethical consumerism, equipping future designers to balance profit with responsibility. At the consumer end, new research will reveal misalignments between brand recommendations for garment care and the behaviour actually adopted by wearers, showing that communication must evolve. 

“These examples will remind delegates that technology and recycling alone cannot deliver sustainability without parallel shifts in culture, education and policy,” says Textile Institute CEO Stephanie Dick. “The global nature of the challenges facing textiles is already widely acknowledged and climate change, waste, toxic chemicals, unsafe labour practices and consumer overconsumption have combined to make fashion and textiles one of the world’s most scrutinised industries. What will emerge from this conference, however, is an unmistakable sense of convergence and solid progress.”

Mayer & Cie. will participate in ITMA Asia from October 28 to 31, 2025, which takes place in Singapore. ITMA Asia + CITME brings together the international market leaders in the industry and offers a platform for the exchange of information on the latest technologies, sustainability and digitalization. Benjamin Mayer, Managing Partner of Mayer & Cie., says: "For us, ITMA Asia is both an opportunity for customer loyalty and a door opener for new business relationships in one of the most dynamic textile regions in the world."

At its booth, the manufacturer of circular knitting machines and braiding machines will be showing a new circular knitting for jacquard fabrics – the OVJA 2.4 EC II – and will provide an overview of its digital and smart solutions. Another focus is on the machines of Mayer & Cie's "Performance Line": circular knitting machines, which are the most efficient solution in their respective classes. 

OVJA 2.4 EC II
"The OVJA 2.4 EC II belongs to our product group of circular knitting machines, which are engineered in Germany and manufactured in our factory in China”," says Benjamin Mayer, explaining the machine exhibit at ITMA Asia. “These machines are predominantly aimed at customers from China and Southeast Asia.” Thanks to a new system for single needle selection, the machine impresses with a significantly reduced cylinder height. In addition, fewer knitting elements are required, which significantly reduces the energy consumption of the machine. The OVJA 2.4 EC II produces fabrics for sports and leisure wear; it is also widely used in the field of home textiles, especially mattress cover fabrics – and all this at an attractive price. 

New Control 5.0 machine control system
The new Control 5.0 machine control system for circular knitting machines from Mayer & Cie. has been available since early summer 2025. It makes Mayer & Cie. circular knitting machines Internet-ready – and thus fit for the digital future of textile production. Control 5.0 is a prerequisite for knitlink, Mayer & Cie's digital platform. It is available as an upgrade kit for all machines built from 2001 onwards and is now part of every newly delivered mechanical circular knitting machine.

knithawk
knithawk is a tool for optical defect detection. It sits directly at the knitting point, where the knitted fabric is made. The camera unit, which "scans" the knitted fabric using infrared light, is quickly installed. If knithawk detects a serious or recurring error, the machine is stopped. The tool also creates an error log. 
In this way, knithawk can prevent knitting errors from continuing through many meters of knitted fabric. Thanks to knithawk, resources such as water, natural fibers, polyester and energy are not used for nothing.  knithawk is available for single jersey machines from Mayer & Cie. Customers can order it directly as part of their new machines or equip existing machines with knithawk via upgrade kit. 

120 years of Mayer & Cie. 
The year 2025 is an anniversary year for Mayer & Cie.: On July 8, 2025, the family-owned company celebrated its 120th birthday. The green MCT emblem stands for precision, durability and reliability worldwide, in the field of circular knitting machines as well as in braiding machines.

"We are proud to have taken this path – and we will continue to do so with innovative strength and reliability", says Managing Director Benjamin Mayer.
However, current conditions cast a shadow over the anniversary year. The order situation remains tense in the German textile machinery industry. In view of the various crises worldwide, a trend reversal is not yet in sight. It is difficult for Benjamin Mayer to give an outlook for the future: "We are well positioned as a company, have answers to the needs of the market and modern processes in production. But no one can predict how the world situation and with it the economic situation will develop."

SNC Kherib et Cie. has awarded ANDRITZ an order to supply a complete spunlace line for its plant located in Bejaia City, Algeria. The start-up is scheduled for the end of Q3 2026.

This will be the very first ANDRITZ spunlace line installed on the African continent. The line will process both viscose and polyester fibers, enabling SNC Kherib to produce high-quality spunlace roll goods for the wet wipes markets to meet the growing needs of African consumers. This project marks a significant step in the development of the spunlace industry in Africa and opens the door to new opportunities for local converters.

The project is a family investment, with each member of the Kherib family actively involved. As a pioneer in the African market, SNC Kherib is leading the way in introducing advanced spunlace technology to the region.

Farid Kherib, founder of SNC Kherib, states: “We are proud to collaborate with a global leader like ANDRITZ. This partnership highlights our commitment and passion for developing innovative solutions tailored to the specific needs of the African market using state-of-the-art equipment.”

The value of the order will not be disclosed. It is included in ANDRITZ’s order intake for the first quarter of 2025.

Based in the Bejaia area of Algeria, SNC Kherib is a family business dedicated to a wide range of activities including the production of nonwovens (viscose and cotton cleaning cloths, polyester wadding for mattress and pillows, etc.), PVC cling film, PP woven bags, as well as PVC doors and sandwich panels.

• Weak demand from semiconductor customers weighs on Group sales and earnings performance
• Restructuring of Carbon Fibers business unit successfully on track
• EBITDA margin almost stable at 16.0% in half-year comparison 
• Sales forecast for 2025 slightly adapted, adjusted EBITDA expectations confirmed

Increasing uncertainty about the future development of global trade, tariff increases between the US and Europe, and weak demand in some of their markets are weighing on SGL Carbon's sales and earnings performance. On the other hand, the restructuring of SGL's Carbon Fibers business unit is showing initial signs of success. After six months of fiscal 2025, SGL Carbon generated sales of €453.2 million, down 15.8% on the previous year (H1 2024: €538.0 million).

The decline in sales within the Group is primarily attributable to negative volume effects, while currency and price effects played only a minor role. In particular, the continuing weak demand from semiconductor customers in the Graphite Solutions business unit weighed on sales development. Furthermore, the Carbon Fibers business unit reported lower sales as a result of the discontinuation of unprofitable business activities as part of the restructuring.

The cost savings resulting from the restructuring of Carbon Fibers and a slight improvement in adjusted EBITDA in the Process Technology business unit were unable to offset the shortfall in earnings contributions from the decline in the high-margin semiconductor business. Adjusted EBITDA, an important key figure for the Group, decreased by 16.2% compared to the first half of 2024 to €72.5 million (H1 2024: €86.5 million). The adjusted EBITDA margin remained almost unchanged at 16.0% compared to the previous year (H1 2024: 16.1%).

Taking into account depreciation and amortization of €25.8 million (H1 2024: €27.0 million) and non-recurring and special items of minus €49.9 million (H1 2024: €3.6 million), EBIT for the first half of 2025 amounted to €3.2 million (H1 2024: €55.9 million). The non-recurring and special items result in particular from restructuring expenses of €47.0 million.

The restructuring announced in February 2025 showed initial success in the first half of 2025, with positive adjusted EBITDA for the Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit. The discontinuation of loss-making business activities resulted in a 15.1% decline in sales to €93.5 million (H1 2024: €110.1 million) but also led to an increase in adjusted EBITDA for CF from minus €4.4 million to €5.2 million year-on-year.

"As part of the CF restructuring, production at our site in Lavradio (Portugal), which mainly produced acrylic fibers and precursors for carbon fibers, was closed down. Production and consequently also our business activities in the acrylic fibers and precursors product areas were completely discontinued at the end of June 2025. CF will focus in future on profitable products with greater differentiation from the international competition," said Dr. Stephan Bühler, member of the Executive Board responsible for this area.

It should be noted that the adjusted EBITDA of the CF business unit includes an earnings contribution of €4.7 million from its equity-accounted joint venture BSCCB (H1 2024: €7.9 million). The decline in BSCCB's earnings contribution is due to the costs of expanding production capacity and volatile demand from automotive customers. Excluding the earnings contribution of the equity-accounted BSCCB, adjusted EBITDA for CF would have been €0.5 million (H1 2024: minus €12.3 million).

The Composite Solutions (CS) business unit was also unable to avoid the increasing uncertainty in the automotive industry about future growth prospects. CS sales declined by 11.7% to €59.1 million in the first half of 2025 (H1 2024: €66.9 million). It should be noted that the first six months of the previous year still included sales from a contract with an automotive customer that expired in the second quarter of 2024.

As a result of lower volumes and the associated lower utilization of production capacities, CS's adjusted EBITDA decreased by €2.7 million to €5.4 million (H1 2024: €8.1 million) compared to the same period last year. Accordingly, the adjusted EBITDA margin of CS declined to 9.1% (H1 2024: 12.1%).

Outlook
Increasing trade barriers, especially due to US tariff policy, are having a negative impact on the business development of their customers and sales markets. In particular, the high level of uncertainty about future developments in the automotive industry is currently weighing on demand for the company’s products. This also includes expected sales of electric vehicles, which are the main drivers of demand for silicon carbide semiconductors. Special graphite components from SGL Carbon are required to manufacture these high-performance semiconductors.

In light of the current economic environment and the expectations for developments in the sales markets in the upcoming months and taking into account restructuring measures in the Carbon Fibers business unit, the sales forecast for fiscal year 2025 is adjusted on July 14, 2025. Consolidated sales for the full fiscal year 2025 are expected to decline by 10% to 15% compared with the previous year (2024: €1,026.4 million). Previously, SGL Carbon had expected sales to decrease by up to 10% (slight decline) compared with the previous year.

Due to the discontinuation of loss-making business activities in the Carbon Fibers business unit and cost savings as part of the successful restructuring and associated improvement in profitability, the forecast for the Group's adjusted EBITDA for fiscal year 2025 remains unchanged in the range of €130 million to €150 million.

On the 1st and 2nd of July, 19 textile, clothing, leather, and footwear representatives from 8 European countries gathered at Amsterdam Fashion Institute in the Netherlands to drive forward the Erasmus+ Blueprint AEQUALIS4TCLF project. This bold initiative is set to transform the TCLF industries through a strategic, educational, and social lens, paving the way for more resilient, inclusive, and future-ready sectors.

One of the project’s key deliverables is the upcoming European TCLF Skills Strategy, designed to respond to the impact on companies’ workforce of the rapidly technological, circular and social transformations. Drawing on both qualitative and quantitative insights from stakeholders, ranging from businesses and policymakers to education providers, the updated strategy will inform the development of consecutive tailored national skills strategies. These strategies will then be rolled out by national project partners, with strong support from industry, education and institutional actors.

AEQUALIS4TCLF is also pioneering change in the classroom. Eight brand-new curricula focused on sustainable and digital fashion have already been developed, and then respective training content are under development. To ensure accessibility and engagement, partners are creating an array of innovative learning resources, from interactive e-books and videos to hands-on activities and assessments. All materials will be available online and free of charge, equipping learners and educators alike for the green and digital transitions.

At its heart, AEQUALIS4TCLF is also a social project. A rich programme of workshops, both online and in person, is being rolled out across all partner countries, addressing critical topics such as diversity, innovation, and wellbeing in the workplace. Meanwhile, a TCLF network-building effort is underway to boost collaboration at both local and European levels. This includes the creation of regional TCLF Pacts for Skills, tailored to the unique needs of local economies, and two European-level networks: one uniting education providers to share best practices and foster excellence, and another engaging regional public authorities in supporting TCLF education for the new era.

The AEQUALIS4TCLF project is co-funded by the Erasmus+ programme of the European Union.

The Swiss material science company Livinguard Technologies AG developed Livinguard Better Fresh - a textile finishing solution that combines leading odor control functionality with an innovative mechanism which reduces the shedding of microfibers over the entire lifetime of textiles. This technology marks a bold step towards a more sustainable future of apparel and provides a tangible solution to tackle the mounting challenge of chemical and microplastic pollution stemming from clothes. 

The environmental impact of textiles arising from microfiber shedding has increased over the past years as the use of synthetic fibers in the apparel industry continues to grow and fast fashion business models continue to gain share. Fiber fragmentation and resulting microplastic and chemical pollution affects waterways, the air and soil.

Livinguard Better Fresh combines a functional and an environmental benefit in a single solution. On the one hand, the technology provides leading odor control which is a valuable functional benefit for consumers. On the other hand, the solution reduces fiber fragmentation by up to 80% and extends the product’s useful life - resulting in a superior safety, environmental, and cost profile for apparel brands. Both claims have been extensively validated in the course of several in-house trials and testing conducted with independent laboratories.

This new product is the result of a long development journey with deep global collaboration. Livinguard leveraged extensive R&D investments over the past 15 years to develop a proprietary blend of chemistry that has then been thoroughly tested for performance, safety, environmental impact, and compliance with the highest industry standards in mind (e.g. bluesign). Furthermore, Livinguard Technologies used the company’s extensive knowhow in textile finishing to optimize and streamline the application of the technology in a real-world environment, ensuring the innovation can be deployed seamlessly on existing equipment and in established processes. 

Recognizing that awareness for the environmental impact of textile microfiber shedding is still emerging among consumers and that demand for solutions addressing this issue alone may be consequently limited, Livinguard Technologies have chosen to integrate odor control functionality, a well-understood and valued benefit, with this innovative fiber protection technology. This two-in-one solution allows brands and manufacturers alike to fund most costs for the chemical solution itself and for managing the complexity associated with its implementation by substituting their existing odor control technologies with Livinguard Better Fresh. Many established odor control solutions are prone to leach out over time and consequently increase chemical pollution arising from textiles. Livinguard’s new technology binds permanently to the treated fibers and strongly holds them together to ensure the least possible chemical and microfiber discharge. 
The Livinguard Better Fresh technology is officially launched during the Functional Fabric Fair in NYC and Functional Textiles in Shanghai while further validation activities are carried out with partners from academia, external laboratories as well as pilot customers (apparel brands & textile mills) worldwide.

This new technology can substantially contribute to various established solution pathways for microfiber pollution as it allows for the development or further improvement of low-shedding fabrics with minimal impact on established production equipment and supply chains. Furthermore, due to its built-in odor control functionality, it enables consumers to use their clothes longer and adopt more sustainable laundry practices (e.g. washing at lower temperatures). Finally, it enhances product longevity without any negative impact on recycling / circularity of the treated clothes. Overall, Livinguard Better Fresh provides a cost-effective solution to make tangible and substantial progress in the fight against plastic pollution quickly.