From the Sector

Der internationale Technologiekonzern ANDRITZ hat zwei neue Refiner- und Kotonisierungslinien an Van Robaeys, Frankreich, geliefert und in Betrieb genommen. Die maßgeschneiderten teXline-Anlagen ermöglichen es dem Unternehmen, die Produktion von Textilfasern aus Flachs zu steigern. Das Familienunternehmen Van Robaeys stellt das Flachsfasern für die Spinnereiindustrie her. Sein Know-how in der Flachsverarbeitung reicht bis ins Jahr 1919 zurück.

Mit der Errichtung der neuen Linien reagiert Van Robaeys auf die zunehmende Nachfrage des französischen Marktes nach hochwertigen baumwollartigen Textilfasern aus natürlichen Rohstoffen. Europa ist der weltweit größte Produzent von Flachsfasern und verzeichnete zwischen 2010 und 2020 einen Anstieg der Flachsanbauflächen um 133%.

ANDRITZ-teXline-Bastfaser-Linien können bis zu 800 kg Fasern pro Stunde verarbeiten und sind mit modernsten Anlagen ausgestattet, die ein hohes Maß an Flexibilität in der gesamten Faserverarbeitung gewährleisten.

Bei den nun gelieferten Anlagen handelt es sich um die siebente und achte ANDRITZ-Kotonisierungslinie für Van Robaeys, wobei die erste schon seit 50 Jahren in Betrieb ist. Die jüngste Investition unterstützt die Bemühungen des Unternehmens um eine nachhaltige und abfallfreie Faserproduktion.

The Middle East’s industrial sector is synonymous with high-risk environments, particularly in oil and gas production. Workers face hazards such as flash fires, chemical splashes and electric arcs—all within the context of demanding conditions, including sweltering heat and long shifts. In response to these challenges, flame-retardant (FR) fabrics with stretch properties are emerging as the next generation of protective workwear, delivering comfort, safety and durability.

Traditionally, FR fabrics prioritised protection over comfort. However, the increasing demand for ergonomic clothing has driven a shift towards stretch solutions. Thanks to innovations in textile engineering and the influence of modern fashion, these fabrics now combine unparalleled flexibility with the stringent safety standards required in high-risk industries.

Stretch fabrics such as Carrington Textiles’ Flametougher 290AS Flex and Flameflex 300AS demonstrate how this transition is not just a luxury but a necessity. Flametougher 290AS Flex, for example, incorporates 19.5% CORDURA® nylon 6,6 for exceptional durability and strength, blended with 78% cotton for lightweight comfort. At just 290gsm, it ensures workers maintain mobility without compromising on protection.

Meeting the needs of Middle Eastern workers, Flameflex 300AS, weighing 300gsm, provides a perfect balance of durability, flexibility and flame resistance. Its 83% cotton and 14% polyester composition ensures longevity, while 2% EOL fibres enable enhanced elasticity—critical for workers in physically intensive roles such as oil rig operations or refinery maintenance.

Flexibility in workwear isn’t just a matter of comfort, it’s a matter of safety. Restricted movement can lead to fatigue, reduced compliance with safety standards and accidents. Stretch FR fabrics excel in adaptability. Whether it’s a worker scaling scaffolding on an oil platform or handling maintenance in a petrochemical plant, garments made with stretch FR textiles allow for the unrestricted movement critical to performing tasks safely.

The rise of these type of fabrics also owes much to the fashion industry. Decades of innovation in stretch garments for everyday use have created a ripple effect in workwear. Workers increasingly expect the same level of comfort and fit in their protective clothing, and manufacturers are responding.

Kornit Digital LTD. engaged in sustainable, on-demand digital fashion and textile production technologies, will unveil its transformative home décor solutions at the world’s largest trade fair for home textiles, Heimtextil 2025. The Company will present a furniture collection in collaboration with the prestigious Israeli brand Niso Furniture.

The collaboration will feature a fully designed living room concept, showcasing sofas, armchairs, a dining table, and curtains—all created using Kornit’s digital printing systems. This collection will highlight how Kornit’s technology enables designers and manufacturers to transform spaces with infinite customization options, delivering premium-quality, sustainable products on demand.

Kornit’s approach offers a unique ecosystem that supports a virtual-first supply chain, eliminating inventory and waste by producing only what’s needed, when it’s needed. The collection demonstrates the flexibility to print on a wide variety of fabrics—naturals, synthetics, and blends—using a single ink set, ensuring a seamless design process across multiple materials and applications. Visitors to the Kornit booth will witness firsthand how this technology empowers personalization and creativity while achieving superior speed and sustainability.

“This partnership with Niso Furniture embodies the digital transformation sweeping through the textile and furniture industries,” said Chris Govier, EVP Strategic Growth and Marketing at Kornit Digital. “Together, we are creating a new paradigm for home décor—one where creativity, sustainability, and agility converge. Heimtextil 2025 is the ideal platform to showcase how Kornit’s demand-before-supply model enables designers and businesses to deliver unique, high-quality pieces while transforming traditional supply chains. We’re excited to engage with industry leaders, customers, and partners as we shape the future of home décor.”

Leon Edot, co-owner of Niso Furniture, echoed this sentiment: “Our collaboration with Kornit Digital reflects our shared vision of combining creativity and technology to redefine furniture design. The collection we’ve created represents a new era in home décor, where innovation knows no boundaries. We’re proud to represent Israeli ingenuity on this global stage and to showcase our ability to inspire and lead in design and technology.”

Die ENKA GmbH & Co. KG, Hersteller endloser Viskosegarne, verabschiedet sich von der Herstellung von Chemiefasern. Geplant ist, die Produktion am Standort Obernburg nach nahezu einem Jahrhundert erfolgreicher Tätigkeit im Laufe der nächsten Monate zu beenden und, sobald keine bestehenden Aufträge mehr abzuarbeiten sind, den Betrieb stillzulegen. Der gesamte Prozess wird in mehreren Stufen ablaufen und voraussichtlich bis Ende September 2025 abgeschlossen sein.

Stilllegung unvermeidlich
Das Ende der Produktion in Obernburg, so die Enka-Geschäftsführung, sei die unvermeidliche Folge des intensiven Wettbewerbes auf einem Weltmarkt für Viskoseprodukte, der von indischen und insbesondere chinesischen Herstellern dominiert werde. Diese produzierten Viskose zu deutlich geringeren Kosten, aufgrund größerer Fabriken mit Effizienzvorteilen, niedrigeren Löhnen, staatlichen Subventionen und deutlich geringeren Umweltauflagen.

„Diese ungleichen Wettbewerbsbedingungen führen seit mehreren Jahrzehnten zu einem erheblichen Rückgang der Auftrags- und der Produktionsmengen bei ENKA. In den zurückliegenden 18 Monaten hat sich dieser Trend nochmals dramatisch verstärkt. Insbesondere die in den letzten Jahren deutlich gestiegenen Energiekosten haben zu einer zusätzlichen wirtschaftlichen Belastung geführt und dadurch den Kostendruck auf die Produktion noch einmal erheblich erhöht“, sagt Dr. Till Boldt, Geschäftsführer bei ENKA. „Auch wenn sich ENKA seit Jahrzehnten intensiv mit verschiedenen Maßnahmen zur Senkung der Kosten und zur Steigerung der Effizienz in der Produktion gegen diesen Trend gestemmt hat, machen diese Marktveränderungen eine wirtschaftliche Fortführung der Produktion unmöglich.“

Im Sinne der Kunden und Zulieferer wird die Produktion schrittweise reduziert, um alle bestehenden Lieferverträge zu erfüllen. Dabei wird insbesondere Rücksicht auf die am Standort Obernburg ansässigen Zulieferer und Geschäftspartner genommen, um deren Fortbestand und den Erhalt des Industriestandorts zu unterstützen. „Hierzu führen wir partnerschaftliche Verhandlungen, um faire und nachhaltige Lösungen für alle an der Stilllegung Beteiligten zu finden“, sagt Dr. Boldt. Der gesamte Prozess, der mit der schrittweisen Reduktion beginnt, soll bis September 2025 abgeschlossen werden.

Geordneter Prozess im Interesse von Mitarbeitenden und Geschäftspartner
Die ENKA GmbH & Co. KG legt großen Wert darauf, den Prozess der Stilllegung geordnet und in Abstimmung mit allen Beteiligten transparent und fair zu gestalten. „Die ENKA bleibt bis zuletzt ein verlässlicher Arbeitgeber, ein vertrauenswürdiger Lieferant unserer Kunden sowie ein fairer Geschäftspartner für unsere Lieferanten und Partner am Standort Obernburg“, betont Menrath.

Die 237 Arbeitsverhältnisse sollen gemäß den bestehenden Kündigungsfristen erfüllt werden. Darüber hinaus ist geplant, dass alle Arbeitnehmerinnen und Arbeitnehmer Abfindungen im Rahmen eines Sozialplans erhalten. ENKA werde dafür Sorge tragen, dass sämtliche tariflichen Bestimmungen bis zum letzten Tag eingehalten werden. „Unser besonderer Dank gilt den Mitarbeitern, die in den vergangenen Jahrzehnten bereit waren, erhebliche Einschränkungen im Tariflohn und in der tariflichen Arbeitszeit zu akzeptieren, um den Betrieb am Standort Obernburg aufrechtzuerhalten. Diese Solidarität und Loyalität verdienen höchsten Respekt und Anerkennung“, sagt Geschäftsführer Menrath.

„Wir möchten unseren Abschied von Obernburg mit größtem Respekt vor allen Beteiligten gestalten. Die Entscheidung, die Produktion in Obernburg zu beenden, fällt uns außerordentlich schwer. Die Viskoseproduktion war über fast ein Jahrhundert hinweg ein Herzstück des Standorts Obernburg und der Stolz unserer Mitarbeiter. Doch die wirtschaftlichen Rahmenbedingungen zwingen uns, diesen Weg zu gehen. Unsere oberste Priorität ist es nun, die Stilllegung geordnet und verantwortungsvoll umzusetzen“, sagt ENKA-Geschäftsführer Wolfgang Menrath.

From 3 to 5 September, Cinte Techtextil China will return to the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, with new features capitalising on market growth. In addition to its regular European Zone, the upcoming edition will launch two product zones, namely the Medtech & Protech Zone and the Mobiltech Zone, alongside other precisely crafted features.

With innovation and sustainability at its heart, the fair’s fringe programme will include events such as Econogy Talks, an innovative product showcase and other themed conferences and presentations, maximising promotion and information exchange between fairgoers.

“As the largest global organiser of textile trade fairs, pairing the strength of Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network to market needs as global economies evolve, is key to Cinte Techtextil China’s long-term growth,” said Ms Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. “These new zones have been created strategically, allowing us to expand on under-utilised opportunities for exhibitors and visitors in high-potential technical textile and nonwoven sub-sectors, as well as steering the industry towards an innovative and sustainable future.”

No longer an initiative but a prevailing commitment, sustainability has opened up new possibilities for technical textile and nonwoven development. Speaking at the 2024 edition, Mr Lin Yang, Sales Department Minister of Nihon Glass Fiber Industrial Co., Ltd. commented: “The sustainability trend has fostered the robust growth of new energy vehicles and in turn the automotive interior material businesses. Under the global eco-trend, green application will become the core development of automotive textiles, with more and more car manufacturers applying functional fibres to make automotive materials more durable, anti-high-energy radiation and so on.”

A few booths away, Mr Denis Wallrafen, Sales Manager of Reifenhäuser Enka Tecnica, also referred to sustainability as “the rule for success”, saying that the company has “developed an innovative, cost-effective method for refurbishing spunbond and meltblown spinnerets without compromising quality, with the same excellent performance of a new spinneret.”

Sustainability and innovation will again be strong focuses for Cinte Techtextil China in 2025, as will its propensity to bridge gaps between Asian and Western markets. Speaking at the previous edition, which attracted nearly 17,000 visits from 77 countries and regions, Mr Kabilen Sornum, Vice President Asia Pacific of Marketing & E-Commerce at Groz-Beckert East Asia said: “As one of the most important fairs for us in China, Cinte Techtextil China covers the domestic market, while we also receive a lot of international visitors here, allowing us to exchange ideas and gain market insights. As China is a very big market, very often we sell directly and indirectly to them during the fair, where all our users come together.”

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

Cinte Techtextil China will be held from 3 – 5 September 2025.

The fair is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA).

A Study Dissemination on ‘Assessment of Technological Transition in the Apparel Sector of Bangladesh and Its Impact on Workers’ has arranged by Bangladesh Labour Foundation (BLF), Solidaridad Network Asia & Brac University.

Automation had led to a 30.58% decline in the total workforce across production processes in the ready-made garment (RMG) sector with the majority of the displaced workers being helpers, according to the study.

While automation has boosted economic growth and productivity in the sector, it has simultaneously created significant challenges for RMG workers—especially women, older employees, less literate individuals, and those lacking skills or confidence.

The sweater factory subsector experienced the highest workforce reduction, with a 37.03% decline per production line, followed by woven factories, which saw a 27.23% drop. In terms of specific production processes, the cutting stage showed the most pronounced reduction, with a 48.34% decrease in workers, whereas the sewing process experienced a comparatively smaller decline of 26.57%.

The findings emphasize the urgent need to address “Just Transition” issues, which aim to balance economic advancement with equitable outcomes for displaced workers, as highlighted in the study’s executive summary.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, has opened the registration for the IDEA®25 International Conference and Exhibition on April 29-May 1, 2025, at the Miami Beach Convention Center in Florida.

For the first time at IDEA, the two-day conference will be dedicated exclusively to sustainability, recognizing its critical importance to the nonwovens industry. The conference will bring together C-suite leaders, business development professionals, sustainability managers, product developers, regulatory teams, sales, and marketing to advance “Nonwovens for a Healthier Planet.”

The regional market overviews and company presentations that have previously been part of the conference program will be moved to the exhibition portion of IDEA, which will spotlight product innovations and solutions from leading companies across the industry.

Among the topics industry experts will explore in presentations and panel discussions at IDEA25 are:

• Regulations: Upcoming regulations in the U.S., European Union (EU), and the United Nations impacting sustainability efforts
• Product and Process Innovations: Sourcing sustainable materials featuring natural fibers, advances in biodegradability and compostability, and fiber-to-nonwoven recycling and Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) initiatives
• Circular Economy and Bio-Materials: Responsible sourcing, innovations in sustainability, and end-of-life solutions that reduce waste and lower energy consumption, leading to significant cost and resource savings

Details regarding the presenters and abstracts for the conference will be announced in the coming weeks.

IDEA25 Highlights
The IDEA® Achievement Awards, in partnership with Nonwovens Industry magazine, will be presented based on the results of online voting in six categories, including sustainability achievement.

The event will kick off on April 28th with training courses covering the essentials of nonwovens and market-focused areas, including a Nonwovens 101 short course on manufacturing nonwovens and advanced sessions on technical design and performance in baby and adult care absorbent systems, wet wipes, period products, and filter media training.

In conjunction with IDEA25, INDA also announced registration has opened for FiltXPO™ 2025, the International Filtration Conference and Exhibition, on April 29-May 1, 2025, at the Miami Beach Convention Center. For updates on both events, visit the INDA website.

Wie bewerten Sie das Jahr 2024 und die Aussichten für 2025? Wie stehen Sie zur Verlängerung der Sommersaison? Welche digitalen Vertriebskanäle nutzen Sie (noch)? Welche Rolle spielen Black Friday, der Schlussverkauf und nachhaltige Sortimente bei Ihnen? Und wo sehen Sie aktuell die größten Problemfelder der Branche?
 
Dies sind einige der zehn Fragen aus der aktuellen BTE-Unternehmerumfrage. Jedes Unternehmen aus dem Textil-, Schuh- und Lederwarenhandel ist zur Teilnahme eingeladen. Alle Antworten werden vertraulich behandelt.
 
Die Fragen sind in wenigen Minuten zu beantworten. Der BTE bittet um eine rege Beteiligung, um ein möglichst repräsentatives Bild der Branche zu erhalten und die Wünsche und Forderungen der Unternehmen noch besser vertreten zu können. Die Ergebnisse werden dann Ende Januar/Anfang Februar veröffentlicht. Auf Wunsch erhalten die Teilnehmer eine separate Auswertung zugemailt, es ist aber auch eine anonyme Teilnahme möglich.
 
Die Fragen sollten idealerweise online beantwortet werden, der Link ist auf der Startseite der BTE-Homepage www.bte.de zu finden. Dort ist der Fragebogen auch als pdf-Datei abzurufen. Der BTE bittet um eine Beteiligung an der Umfrage möglichst bis 15. Januar 2025.

Pili, a French pioneer in biobased dyes and pigments, partners with Orta, the Turkish denim mill and Citizens of Humanity, a California-based high-end denim brand known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

They are beginning a transformative shift in the denim industry with the commercial launch of the first products dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first products will debut in January in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.

A New Ecological Standard for the Denim Industry
In 2024, Pili achieved a major milestone by producing its first tons of biobased indigo, enabling the creation of sustainable denim articles, a turning point in the company's efforts to decarbonize the textile industry especially denim.

Pili has developed unique processes combining fermentation and organic chemistry to offer a high-performance, eco-friendly alternative to petrochemical dyes. Their ecological alternative significantly reduces the use of toxic chemicals and fossil resources, while aiming to cut CO2 emissions up to 50%. It meets the same performance as petrochemical indigo while seamlessly integrating into existing dyeing processes without requiring additional investment in commercial dyeing equipment.

Pili’s colors development is based on standardized Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs), ensuring a rigorous process to measure and minimize their environmental impact.

A Partnership Driving Sustainable Transformation in the Industry
Fiber and dye are the two main components of denim products and also the ones with the greatest impact on their production. The partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Pili, and Orta establishes one of the highest ecological standards in the market with the use of regenerative cotton and biobased indigo.

Pili biobased indigo will make its debut in Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE’s Spring 2025 collections. This long-term partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Orta, and Pili will continue to expand in future collections. The launch will be exclusive on NET-A-PORTER on January 6, 2025, before being extended to agolde.com, citizensofhumanity.com, and other global retailers.

A Key Step Towards the Decarbonization of the Color Industry
Building on this first success, Pili is accelerating the development of coloring solutions for various industrial applications, particularly in the inks, paints, and polymers sectors. The aim is to decarbonize everyday products using high-performance biobased pigments, with the first applicative tests set to begin this year. Pili continues its mission to decarbonize the color industry, paving the way for a sustainable revolution.

The International Textile Manufacturer Federation has published its International Textile Industry Statistics (ITIS) on productive capacity and raw materials consumption in the short-staple organized (spinning mill-) sector in virtually all textile-producing countries in the world. ITMF has used a new calculation method and reviewed past time series.

The estimated global number of installed short-staple spindles reached 232 Mio units in 2023 and the number of installed open-end rotors grew to 9.7 Mio (see Fig. 1 and 2). Capacity building is still disproportionally targeting Asia. The number of installed air-jet spindles soared to 637 thousand. Outside Asia, the main capacity increase was registered in Türkiye.

Global Installed Capacities and Raw Material Consumption in the Short-Staple Organized (Spinning Mill-) Sector of the Textile Industries (1993-2023) The number of installed shuttle-less looms increased to 1.7 Mio in 2023 (see Fig. 3). Total raw material consumption in the short-staple organized sector slightly decreased to 43 Mio tons (see Fig. 4). Global consumption of raw cotton and cellulosic short-staple fibers decreased by -4.4% and -2.9%, respectively. Consumption of synthetic short-staple fibers increased by 0.5%.