From the Sector

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) and authorities from Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden have released a progress update on the process to restrict per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in Europe.

The five authorities (Dossier Submitters) and ECHA’s scientific committees for Risk Assessment (RAC) and for Socio-Economic Analysis (SEAC) continue to consider more than 5,600 scientific and technical comments received from third parties during the consultation in 2023.

This consultation input helps the Dossier Submitters to progressively update and improve the information on PFAS. It has also helped identify uses that were not specifically named in the initial proposal, and these are being incorporated into existing sector assessments or grouped into new sectors as needed. Examples include sealing applications, technical textiles, printing applications and other medical applications, such as packaging and excipients for pharmaceuticals.

Alternative restriction options, besides a full ban or a ban with time-limited derogations, are also being considered. An alternative option could, for example, involve conditions allowing the continued manufacture, placing on the market or use of PFAS instead of a ban. This consideration is particularly relevant for uses and sectors where evidence suggests that a ban could lead to disproportionate socio-economic impacts.

These alternative options are being considered for uses including, but not limited to:

• batteries;
• fuel cells; and
• electrolysers.

The proportionality of each alternative option will be evaluated and compared to the initial two restriction options of a full ban or a ban with time-limited derogations.
All this updated information is feeding into ECHA committees’ ongoing evaluation of the proposal.

Active Apparel Group (AAG), manufacturer of performance apparel for the leisure/lifestyle and active market, has attained B Corp Certification, solidifying their role as one of a select few pioneers in environmental, social, and governance (ESG) practices for their industry, customers, and partners.

AAG achieved a score of 84.9 points on the rigorous B Impact Assessment (BIA), exceeding the 80-point threshold required for B Corp certification. This demonstrates Active Apparel Group's dedication to workers, customers, community, and the environment, all part of the brand’s dedication to using business as a force for good.

The strongest areas represented in this score were Governance (17.6 pts), Workers (24.9 pts) and Customers (4.1 pts), which are significantly higher vs country, sector, and size benchmarks for similar B Corp certified companies.

A highlight of Active Apparel Group's certification was the achievement of hard-to-earn Impact Business Model (IBM) points for their practices in Toxin Reduction / Remediation. This recognition highlights AAG’s deep commitment to reducing harmful chemicals in their production processes through the use of 100% OEKO-TEX certified inks and responsible chemical management practices.

AAG already pays all workers a living wage. In 2023, an audit by third-party Bureau Veritas of AAG’s factory in China, Ningbo Longson Garments Co. Ltd (Longson), confirmed a 100% pass rate. Employees received wages exceeding the calculated living wage, 29% above the local minimum wage and 140% greater than the poverty line in Ningbo. Remuneration at this level remains a rarity in the manufacturing industry in China.

AAG has also committed to a structured approach in reducing its environmental impact across its global operations through an Environmental Management System (EMS). The EMS, built using the ISO14001 Standard Framework, incorporates key environmental policy commitments and has set targets and strategies to reduce the carbon footprint of its operations across China, Australia and the USA.

B Corp certification places AAG’s environmental, social, and governance practices in the company of a select few manufacturers in the performance apparel manufacturing industry, giving all AAG customers the confidence that they are partnering with a global leader in this space

The textile industry faces increased scrutiny on its substantial amounts of waste generated each year. This presents a challenge for the industry, but also a massive opportunity for circularity and transparency; with efforts underway to track, reduce, and utilise waste towards better end-of-life practices.

Waste reflects a burden on resources, inefficient processes, and unmanaged emissions, highlighting the need for action. Rising regulations are also inciting action from the industry, such as recyclers using textile waste as feedstock to displace virgin fibre production. However, information on textile waste is currently fragmented, with data scattered across a multitude of organisations and platforms. This lack of centralised knowledge and standardised data hampers the industry’s ability to address and capitalise on textile waste.

To tackle this issue, Fashion for Good, with catalytic funding from Laudes Foundation and IDH, has partnered with Reverse Resources, Global Fashion Agenda, Circle Economy, and Accelerating Circularity – who actively address many facets of textile waste and leverage each other's diverse skill sets and wealth of information to create a tool consolidating the outcomes of individual research. This tool provides an overview of data points on waste quantities, types, compositions, and other insights, as well as links to the original studies. With information on waste attributes, data collection methodologies, organisations involved, and a lens on upcoming studies for a region, the tool empowers users of textile waste, as well as stakeholders looking to further the industry’s knowledge base.

With a lens on global hotspots of textile waste, as well as links to established resources for each region, strategies aimed at valorising waste become more attainable. For instance, recyclers can strategise their feedstock sourcing by gaining insights into waste streams and their specific characteristics. Governments can utilise this data to develop informed policies and regulations that encourage sustainable waste management practices. Fostering connections between stakeholders, both local and international, can help address operational challenges towards the advancement of circularity.

This initiative marks a significant step towards building a more transparent, collaborative, and circular fashion industry. By uniting key players from across the ecosystem, it is not only addressing the pressing issue of textile waste but also unlocking its potential as a resource. As the platform continues to grow, incorporating more data and insights from other organisations working on assessing waste in newer regions and different waste categories, the aim is to provide deeper clarity and drive meaningful change. Together, the way can be paved for a fashion industry that values sustainability, reduces waste, and contributes to a healthier planet for future generations.

The Dornbirn GFC invites researchers, experts, manufacturers, and practitioners to submit papers for the 64th congress in September 2025, providing a platform for presenting innovations shaping the fiber and textile industries' future.

Submissions on the following topics are welcome:

Work- & Protective Wear & Defense

• Smart textiles providing real-time data for first responders
  (e.g., firefighters, soldiers, police, industrial workers)
• Flame-resistant fabrics for multi-risk environments, combining protection with flexibility and comfort
• Sustainability in production, eco-friendly materials, and recycling innovations for workwear and protective apparel

Carbon Stewardship: Harnessing Biomass & Recycling & Capture for a Sustainable Future

• Use of sustainable biomass in textile production
• Innovations in post-consumer textile recycling and chemical recycling methods
• Carbon capture technologies integrated across the value chain

Fiber Innovations: From Production to Application

• Biopolymer & Natural Fibers
• Textile Processing & Application
• Nonwoven Processing & Application

Cross-Industry Session

• Energy Transition
• Pulp & Paper & Packaging Innovation

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has officially announced the theme for Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2025: ‘Barriers and Bridges’. Under the patronage of Her Majesty the Queen of Denmark, the leading forum for sustainability in fashion will take place 3-5 June 2025. The Summit will return to the Copenhagen Concert Hall, where stimulative content will spotlight how today’s challenges can be embraced as catalysts for creative and sustainable growth. Registration is now open.

The fashion industry is facing immense pressure to adapt and innovate while complying with an increasingly complex regulatory environment. By convening core stakeholders across the fashion ecosystem and parallel industries, Global Fashion Summit will highlight the dualities of this moment, exploring how challenging new barriers can be leveraged as bridges for tangible change. With legislation accelerating, the boundaries between voluntary and mandatory efforts are blurring, demanding both courage and capital.

Through the lens of collective action, the Summit will tackle crucial topics encompassing social and environmental challenges, revealing the ways in which both barriers and bridges are defining fashion’s approach to sustainability today. The theme will underlie all elements of the Summit across its three stages. Speakers will showcase pathways to balance competing demands: climate leadership with business resilience, regulatory compliance with radical innovation, and near-term possibilities with long-term vision.

The Innovation Forum at the Summit will showcase a curated selection of solutions across the entire value chain, from pioneering materials to advanced end-of-use processes. Summit attendees can connect with exhibiting solution providers and participate in the Innovation Forum's Matchmaking Programme, which facilitates tailored, one-on-one meetings between solution providers and Summit attendees, helping them advance their sustainability strategies through targeted collaborations.

Federica Marchionni, CEO, Global Fashion Agenda, says: “Fashion is one of the world’s most dynamic and influential industries, with the power to drive change globally. Climate adaptation is now as crucial as mitigation. Transformation requires more than incremental change; it demands bold leadership, courageous investment, and the drive to reimagine business models. In this era of transformation, Global Fashion Summit is critical to enabling collaboration and guiding implementation.”

Weak demand in some of their customer markets is increasingly hindering SGL Carbon's sales growth. After nine months in 2024, SGL Carbon generated sales of €781.9 million, which was slightly below the prior-year level at minus 4.8% (9M 2023: €821.7 million). Adjusted for currency and structural effects, Group sales decreased by 3.6%. Adjusted EBITDA, an important key figure for the Group, remained at a comparable level of €127.6 million in the reporting period (9M 2023: €130.0 million). Despite the slight decrease in sales, the adjusted EBITDA margin improved from 15.4% in Q1 and 16.7% in Q2 to 16.9% in Q3 and amounted to 16.3% after nine months (9M 2023: 15.8%). The reasons for the improved adjusted EBITDA margin are, in particular, product mix effects in the Graphite Solutions and Process Technology business units. By contrast, the ongoing weakness in demand and the associated price pressure for carbon and textile fiber products in the Carbon Fibers business unit continued to weigh on the Group's sales and earnings development.

“Even with our diversified product portfolio, we can no longer completely withdraw from the generally weak economic environment. In addition, there was a decline in demand for specialty graphite products for the semiconductor industry in the third quarter. In particular, our products for the manufacture of silicon carbide-based semiconductors are suffering from the restrained demand for electric vehicles on the customer side,” explains CEO Dr. Torsten Derr. “While the last 18 months were characterized by enormous demand for silicon carbide semiconductors and insufficient production capacities, the market has cooled down significantly. Due to a lack of demand from the automotive industry, our semiconductor customers have significantly reduced order volumes. We do not expect to see a significant upturn in demand for our specialty graphite products until the sales figures for electric vehicles pick up again.”

Based on the adjusted EBITDA of €127.6 million and taking into account depreciation and amortization of €41.0 million (9M 2023: €43.3 million) and one-off effects as well as non-recurring items of minus €18.3 million (9M 2023: minus €47.2 million), EBIT after nine months of 2024 will be €68.3 million (9M 2023: €39.5 million). The one-off effects and non-recurring items result, among other things, from the restructuring measures at Carbon Fibers and the Battery Solutions business line as well as from expenses for a strategy project. When comparing with the previous year, it should be noted that the first nine months of 2023 were disproportionately affected by an impairment loss on the assets of Carbon Fibers (€44.7 million).

Development of the business units
The Carbon Fibers business unit's sales for the first nine months of 2024 amounted to €157.1 million, significantly below the figure of €179.6 million for the prior-year period. The decline is due in particular to the continued weak demand from the wind industry and to the increasing competitive pressure resulting from global overcapacities for carbon and textile fibers.

Idle production capacities and the associated lack of fixed cost absorption as well as declining margins for commodity products led to a further deterioration in the adjusted EBITDA of the Carbon Fibers. The adjusted EBITDA of the Carbon Fibers business unit fell to minus €7.9 million in the first nine months of 2024 (9M 2023: €3.2 million). It should be noted that the adjusted EBITDA of the Carbon Fibers business unit includes an earnings contribution of €11.6 million from the joint venture BSCCB, which is accounted for At-Equity (9M 2023: €14.1 million). Excluding this contribution from the At-Equity accounted BSCCB, the adjusted EBITDA of Carbon Fibers would have been minus €19.6 million (9M 2023: minus €10.5 million).

SGL Carbon assumes that demand for carbon fibers will not recover in the coming months and that the realizable prices for these products will remain at a low level beyond 2025. Therefore, SGL Carbon anticipates that the expected improvement in sales and earnings for the Carbon Fibers segment will be delayed and is revising its existing mid-term planning for this segment. Due to the expected deviation, an ad hoc impairment test is currently being carried out. This indicates a non-cash impairment charge of €60–80 million, which will be recognized in Q4 2024. The structured transaction process initiated for Carbon Fibers is still ongoing.

Sales in the Composite Solutions business unit amounted to €95.8 million in the first nine months of 2024, down 16.2% (9M 2023: €114.3 million). The decline is due in particular to the early termination of a project-related supply contract with an automotive customer. Furthermore, the lower sales figures for electric vehicles are also having an impact on Composite Solutions.

Adjusted EBITDA in Composite Solutions fell from €16.6 million in the prior-year period to €10.7 million (minus 35.5%), due in particular to lower volumes. The adjusted EBITDA margin weakened accordingly to 11.2% (9M 2023: 14.5%).

Outlook
Macroeconomic conditions, lower than expected sales volumes in some customer groups and price pressure for commodity products are increasingly hindering SGL Carbon's growth ambitions. Thomas Dippold, CFO of SGL Carbon, explains: “Due to the diverse and diversified industrial applications of our products and our strict cost management, we continue to expect to achieve our guidance for 2024 at the lower end of the range of €160–170 million. The coming months will not be easier. We need to prepare for a flat demand development in some of our sales markets.”

TradeBeyond is hosting Global Sourcing Day 2024, an exclusive, invite-only conference bringing together top executives, thought leaders, and industry experts from the retail supply chain sector. This year’s event will focus on innovative strategies, sustainability, and technological advancements that are transforming retail sourcing.

WHEN: Nov. 12, 2024, 9 AM – 4 PM HKT
WHERE: Cordis Hotel, Hong Kong

Featured speakers include:

• Britton Russell, COO, MGF Sourcing
• Jeff Alpert, CEO, Pillar AI
• Aubree Evangelista, Global Product Manager Social, amfori
• Sophie You, RESET Carbon
• Rick Horwitch, Vice President of Strategy & Innovation, Bureau Veritas

Global Sourcing Day 2024 offers a unique opportunity for senior supply chain professionals to explore the future of sourcing and sustainability. Key topics include:

• AI and Digital Transformation: How artificial intelligence is reshaping sourcing operations.
• Sustainable Sourcing and Compliance: Adapting to evolving environmental regulations and standards.
• Traceability and Transparency: Elevating supply chain visibility to build trust and accountability.

This event provides critical insights for those aiming to navigate the challenges and seize the opportunities within global supply chains in 2025 and beyond.

EDANA, the global association for the nonwovens and related industries, concluded its annual Sustainability Forum at the KBR Royal Library of Belgium in Brussels. This year's forum, themed “Building a Sustainable Future Together,” featured a series of keynote addresses, panel discussions, and collaborative sessions focused on environmental responsibility, corporate social responsibility, and circular economy innovations within the nonwovens sector. With an agenda that bridged policy and practice, the Forum highlighted the latest advancements and strategies aimed at tackling climate change, reducing waste, and enhancing sustainability practices.

Keynote Highlights
The forum featured two keynote speakers: Ana Rovzar, Founder of Polygon AR, opened the Forum with a keynote on the accelerating transition to clean energy. In her speech, she discussed the shift from conventional energy investments to renewables, noting a 50% growth in renewables in 2023 alone. “It is accelerating much faster than people think” she remarked, emphasizing that “real progress requires a united front from governments, businesses, and communities to remove regulatory and technological barriers”.

In another keynote, sustainability expert Mike Barry, formerly of Marks & Spencer, stressed the importance of aligning corporate strategy with sustainability. “Citizens see climate change as a top priority, and companies must act boldly to reduce emissions, especially Scope 3”, he said. “Sustainability is now a vital part of brand identity, and consumers expect more transparency and commitment than ever”.

Innovative Industry Perspectives and EU Policy Impacts
Brieuc Lits, Public Affairs Director at EDANA, examined the potential effects of the EU Green Deal on the nonwovens industry. “The EU’s shift towards balancing sustainability with competitiveness will shape not only policy but the very framework within which we operate”, he noted, emphasizing that the sector must adapt to stay competitive and aligned with regulatory expectations.

Lastly, Paolo Haeusermann, Senior Brand Director and Europe Sustainability Leader at Procter & Gamble, shared insights on advancing sustainability in absorbent hygiene products and emphasized the importance of these items. “We are talking about essential products in people’s lives”, he remarked.

Corporate and Product Sustainability: A Deep Dive
Several industry leaders shared insights on integrating sustainability at every level of business. Carsten Ruff from Nitto Advanced Film Solutions discussed the challenges and strategies of embedding sustainability in corporate culture, particularly in a multinational setting. “Sustainability is not a contradiction to industrial applications; it’s a powerful driver of innovation”, he observed.

Martijn Gipmans from Sphera Solutions highlighted the business value of transparency and life-cycle assessments (LCA). “LCA and transparent ESG reporting can catalyse both business growth and environmental progress”, he explained, stressing the importance of integrated sustainability assessments to reduce the carbon footprint of entire product portfolios.

Christophe Morel-Fourrier, Sustainability Leader for Hygiene, Packaging, and Converting Adhesives at Bostik, introduced the Archimedes tool as a strategic asset for Portfolio Sustainability Assessment. “Archimedes allows us to make transparent, informed decisions that align with our long-term sustainability goals”, he explained. He highlighted that this tool helps companies evaluate the sustainability of their product portfolios, empowering them to make impactful choices that support environmental goals.

The Path Forward: Advancing Circularity and Green Innovation
One of the most discussed topics was the industry's transition toward a circular economy. Albert Hammerschmied from Freudenberg Performance Materials highlighted the importance of post-industrial waste in achieving circularity, particularly in the automotive sector. “The potential for nonwovens in the automotive circular economy is vast, but requires industry-wide collaboration”, he commented.

In a session addressing the future of sustainable practices in building insulation, Alexandre Butté of ANDRITZ Laroche emphasized the importance of sustainable materials and collaboration among stakeholders. “The building industry faces unique sustainability challenges, but with innovation and eco-friendly materials, we can bridge the gap between goals and achievable practices”, he said.

Building a Sustainable Health Sector
Danielle van Horzen, Global Marketing Manager for Hygiene and Healthcare at SABIC, discussed advanced recycling solutions in the healthcare sector. Addressing the challenges of medical waste recycling, she stated, “A significant amount of medical waste is not contaminated, offering us opportunities to create circularity in healthcare.” She pointed to the potential for advanced chemical recycling to enable circular models, helping to tackle the pressing issue of sustainable medical waste management.

The day concluded with a session on the circular potential within healthcare. Kristien Depraetere, Sustainability Coordinator at UZ Leuven, outlined sustainable practices in hospitals, from waste reduction to advanced recycling in medical waste. “Healthcare can lead by example in the transition to circularity, yet we need practical and legislative support to address unique industry challenges”.

Visit to the European Commission
The third day of EDANA’s Sustainability Forum 2024 concluded with an insightful visit to the European Commission, offering attendees a unique opportunity to engage directly with policymakers and gain firsthand insights into the EU's sustainability agenda. Hosted at the Charlemagne Building, discussions centered on pivotal elements of the EU Green Deal, including the establishment of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), the scope and implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD), and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.

Featuring presentations from prominent EU officials like Vicenzo Gente and Werner Bosmans, attendees delved into how these regulations are shaping sustainability strategies across industries. Bridging policy and practice emerged as essential, reinforcing the forum’s dedication to aligning industry actions with current EU regulatory frameworks. The session offered a strong conclusion to the event, reinforcing a shared commitment to a sustainable future in collaboration with EU leaders and regulatory bodies.

Project Re:Claim, a joint venture between the Salvation Army Trading Company and Project Plan B, has been nominated for the Plastics Industry Awards 2024 in the "Recycler of the Year" category. Using an ISEC evo system from PURE LOOP to process used garments and other textiles, the project is Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system. The award ceremony will take place on 22 November in London.

The UK produces more than half a million tonnes of polyester textile waste every year. Project Re:Claim aims to recycle post-industrial and post-consumer clothing and textiles. The focus is on the recycling of post-industrial polyester from contract textiles for hospitals or hotels (e.g. bed and table linen), workwear and school uniforms, as well as promotional banners (e.g. printed sports banners). The fabrics and textiles come from controlled material streams (closed-loop systems), ensuring minimal impurities. The recycling technology used is an ISEC evo 302 E from PURE LOOP. This innovative technology, developed by the EREMA Group’s member, enables efficient production of high-quality rPET from textile waste.

Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system
The plant, installed at a Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) processing centre in Kettering in early 2024, represents Europe’s first commercial scale polyester textile recycling system specialising in post-consumer polyester. SATCoL is the trading arm of The Salvation Army and UK’s largest charity owned textile collector.

Together with Project Plan B, a specialist in garment design with a focus on design for recycling, PURE LOOP optimised its integrated shredder-extruder combination ISEC evo for the specific requirements. "Plan B has a vision, and we are convinced something great can come out of it," emphasises Manfred Dobersberger, Managing Director at PURE LOOP. Thanks to the configuration of shredder and extruder on one drive shaft and the patented double feed ram system, the ISEC evo 302 E gently processes discarded polyester into rPET, which can be reused for new yarns and other products. "Up until now, polyester that had no useful life left would have been disposed of," explains Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B. "With the ISEC evo, we can now return textile waste as a valuable material back to the supply chains. It’s a carbon saving solution, and it plays a significant role in helping our collective journey to Net Zero."

Textile recycling: an industry with growth potential
The plant aims to recycle 2,500 tonnes of polyester in its first year, doubling this amount in the second year. In addition to the environmental benefits such as diverting unwearable textiles away from landfill, initial estimates indicate that the production of pellets from Project Re:Claim uses only one-tenth of the energy compared with pellets produced from virgin polyester. One prerequisite for this is an energy-efficient recycling machine such as the ISEC evo.

A new generation of space materials left Earth November. 5 as they head to the International Space Station (ISS) to undergo testing in the brutal conditions of low Earth orbit.

Developed at the University of Bristol, these high-performance materials could be used to build future space stations, spacecraft for interplanetary travel or a new ISS.

They will be placed on the Bartolomeo platform, located on the front of the ISS, where they will orbit Earth up to 9,000 times over the next 12 to 18 months at speeds of 17,000 mph.

The carbon fibre reinforced composites will need to survive temperatures between -150ºC and +120ºC, space debris travelling seven times faster than a bullet, severe electromagnetic radiation, high vacuum and atomic oxygen, which erodes even the toughest materials.

Prof Ian Hamerton, Professor of Polymers and Sustainable Composites in the University of Bristol’s world-leading Bristol Composites Institute, said:  

“Space is the most challenging environment for which to design new materials. You’re pitting your materials expertise, skills and ingenuity against extremes of temperature, mechanical stress, radiation, high speed impacts and more.

“Any one of those might be difficult, and, unfortunately, gaining access to repair them is not an easy option, so the materials we build must survive without maintenance.  

“The opportunity to test our materials in the proving ground of space is priceless and will help our University of Bristol scientists on the ground improve fibre-reinforced materials for next-generation space missions.”

There are four laboratory-made polymers heading to the ISS, each of which has been reinforced with carbon fibres and two contain nanoparticles. All four are the result of University of Bristol research and one is patented.

 If the materials cope in the harsh environment, they could be used to create longer-lasting space components, allowing spacecraft to travel further, and spend more time in space.

Future communities on new planets will need protection against galactic cosmic radiation. Dr Ali Kandemir, Senior Research Associate at the University of Bristol, is one of several Bristol researchers, supported by the UK Space Agency (UKSA), examining the effects of simulated galactic cosmic radiation on the materials, in a European Space Agency (ESA) project.

Dr Kandemir said: “We want materials that are resilient in the space environment and, importantly, materials that can shield humans from that radiation.

“We also want to make these materials sustainable, so that when they reach the end of their life they can be recycled and used again for the same purpose.”

The launch of the Space X Dragon CRS-2 spacecraft this morning is the culmination of five years of work for Prof Hamerton and his team.

It has included the efforts of early career researchers, postgraduates and several Aerospace Engineering undergraduates at the University of Bristol, whose final year research projects have been linked to the space materials project.

The practical support of the University of Bristol-hosted National Composites Centre (NCC) was crucial to the scale up of the composite materials.

Prof Kate Robson Brown, Vice-President for Research, Innovation and Impact at University College Dublin, and a collaborator on the project, said:

“After nearly five years of research to develop novel composite materials for space applications it is very exciting to see our experiment launch to the International Space Station.

“I am proud to be part of this mission, and to be working with the multidisciplinary and multisector research team to deliver integrated real world and digital testing for innovative materials which will help to drive growth in the new space economy.

“This mission also demonstrates how space research funding creates career changing opportunities for early career researchers and PhD students in a sector of huge value to both Ireland and the UK.”

Funding to support the project was supplied by the ESA, the UKSA, Oxford Space Systems and others.