From the Sector

Felix Pohlkemper and Tim Röding from Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University are developing a technology with their start-up CarboScreen GmbH that makes complex carbon fibre production controllable through sensor monitoring. With the help of CarboScreen technology, it should be possible to double the production speed from the current 15 m/min to 30 m/min in the medium term. The doubling of production speed alone could result in an increase in turnover of up to €37.5 million per year and production plant. Felix Pohlkemper and Tim Röding were awarded third place in the AVK Innovation Award 2023 in the Processes and Procedures category for this ground-breaking development. The award ceremony took place during the JEC Roof Forum in Salzburg, Austria.

The production of carbon fibres is highly complex. In the current state of the art, however, the manufacturing process is only monitored manually by semi-skilled workers. However, even minimal fibre damage during production leads to a reduction in the quality of the carbon fibre. In extreme cases, it can also lead to plant fires. To ensure production quality, the production speed is currently limited to a maximum of 15 m/min. In fact, the production speed of the systems could be higher. The sensor-based online monitoring of Carbo-Screen makes it possible to increase the production speed to 30 m/min in the medium term. As a result of the increased production volume per system, the specific production costs of the carbon fibre are reduced, which can result in lower prices.

A reduced sales price would make it possible to use carbon fibres and their composite materials even more widely in traditional markets such as aerospace technology and wind energy, as well as for mass production in the automotive industry.

The CarboScreen online monitoring system is currently being developed for industrial use. It is to be validated at an industrial plant in 2024. CarboScreen GmbH was founded as part of EXIST funding and offers AI-supported sensor systems for carbon fibre production. The sensor technology continuously monitors the fibre throughout the entire production process. Deviations are detected automatically.

The winners of the AVK Innovation Award are honoured annually by the AVK Industrievereinigung Verstärkte Kunststoffe. Companies, institutes and their partners are honoured in three categories: products and applications, processes and procedures, and research and science.

Re:NewCell AB (publ) has created a patented process for 100% textile-to-textile recycling and has invested over SEK 1,300 million to establish an innovative and efficient textile recycling plant. The industrial scale plant in Ortviken currently has a capacity to produce up to 60,000 tonnes on an annual basis.

As communicated on 12 October, the Company has experienced lower than anticipated sales volumes to fiber producers in the third quarter and as communicated on 1 November and 7 November, the Company had low sales volumes in October. In addition, sales volumes in November are now expected to be lower than previously anticipated and in line with October sales volume. Discussions are ongoing with a number of customers to secure orders, but it is uncertain when they will materialise.

Therefore, Re:NewCell hereby announces that its Board of Directors has decided to immediately initiate a strategic review to explore and evaluate various funding alternatives. As part of this process, the Board of Directors will consider all potential alternatives to secure funding and optimise shareholder value. Such alternatives may include additional debt funding, equity injection through the form of a rights issue, equity injection through a directed issue targeted to a financial or strategic investor or other possible strategic transactions.
The Board of Directors has retained ABG Sundal Collier as financial advisor to assist in its review of alternatives. Vinge has been appointed as legal advisor in connection with the review process.

The Board of Directors has not set a timetable for completion of its review, but the process will be initiated immediately. Subject to compliance with its ongoing disclosure obligations pursuant to applicable laws and regulations, Re:NewCell undertakes no obligation to make any further announcements regarding the strategic review until a final decision is made by the Company’s Board of Directors.

RUDOLF HUB1922 makes a move in response to the escalating demand for genuinely sustainable technologies, particularly from forward-thinking segments within the textile and apparel industry. In a showcase at Denim by Premiere Vision Milan, RUDOLF HUB1922 presents a pioneering range of textile chemistry that embodies true evolution.

This chemistry marks a milestone in addressing the pressing need for sustainable solutions. By harnessing raw materials derived from organic waste, plastic waste, and renewable feedstock, RUDOLF's latest textile innovations stand poised to transform the industry, promising a substantial reduction in its environmental footprint.

Alberto De Conti, Head of RUDOLF HUB1922, emphasizes the radical nature of evolutionary textile chemistry, stating, "RUDOLF's approach tackles the challenge of waste generation head-on by transforming waste materials into valuable resources". The diversion of waste and renewable feedstock away from landfills and incinerators to fuel textile chemical production is a game-changer, that diminishes the industry's reliance on non-renewable resources and endorses a circular economy model.

The successful integration of chemicals derived from organic and plastic waste, as well as renewable feedstocks, necessitates effective communication and education. Herein lies the significance of fostering collaborative efforts within the industry. De Conti underscores this point, stating, "Collaboration among scientists, fashion designers, and manufacturers is paramount. It propels a collective shift towards sustainable practices, making eco-friendly fashion the standard and minimizing the industry's environmental impact".

EU-wide enforcement project found about 60 active substances in biocidal products that are not allowed on the EU, EEA and Swiss markets. One in three of the checked products did not comply with at least one of the checked legal requirements.
Helsinki, 21 November 2023 – The national enforcement authorities in 29 countries checked over 3 500 biocidal products. Overall, 37 % of the checked biocides were non-compliant with at least one of the checked legal requirements.
 
18 % of checked products were non-compliant with fundamental requirements that affect their safe use. Most of them either lacked a product authorisation or included non-allowed active substances. Most biocides with such major non-compliance were disinfectants, insecticides, and repellents/attractants. Inspectors found about 60 active substances that are not allowed in these products. All products that lacked authorisation or contained non-allowed active substances were withdrawn from the market. In some cases, criminal complaints or fines were issued.

The remaining 19 % non-compliant products were found to have minor deficiencies that did not affect safe use such as missing contact information of the supplier. In these cases the national enforcement authorities gave advice or administrative orders.

Much non-compliance was found in disinfectants sold to consumers. 265 disinfectants out of nearly 1 900 that were checked (14 %) were found to be non-compliant. This included serious compliance deficiencies such as lacking authorisation or incorrect labelling that usually led to the withdrawal of the disinfectants from the market.
 
The inspectors focused on disinfectants because new manufacturers entered the market with biocidal products at the early stages of the COVID-19 pandemic. Many of those disinfectants were not fully compliant with the EU’s Biocidal Products Regulation (BPR) and the related national transitional requirements for biocides.

From 6 – 8 March 2024, the Spring Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles will make its  return to the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai. Showcasing home textile products, encompassing everything from floor to ceiling, exhibitors will be prepared to capture buyers’ attention during China’s traditional peak sourcing season. Suppliers can further benefit from a wider visitor scope, with many buyers crossing over from the co-located fairs Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition, Yarn Expo Spring, CHIC, and PH Value. The comprehensive textile platform provides key opportunities for industry players to connect and explore new possibilities.
 
While the growth rate of the global economy remains slow, the domestic market in China has shown promising figures after the Chinese government implemented measures to encourage household consumption. These include providing support to both the home industry and consumers, to develop sustainable, intelligent and healthy living environments. Loan procedures for home refurnishing and funding for related industry sectors have also been optimised. Against this backdrop, for the first eight months of 2023, China Customs recorded a 7% year-on-year increase in consumables retail sales, reaching a total of RMB 3 billion (around USD 410 million). Homing in on the textile sector, profitability is regaining momentum, driven by both the local market and the success of international trade agreements such as Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP).

Across three days, the 2023 spring edition attracted 26,538 trade visitors and 283 exhibitors from five countries and regions. The upcoming fair in March will showcase a full range of home textiles to meet buyers’ needs, including bedding & towelling, rugs, table & kitchen linen, home textile technologies, textile design, and many more. Exhibitors, meanwhile, are set to benefit from the concurrent textile fairs, with the apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres on offer to attract additional segments of the textile value chain, and facilitate sourcing on a wider scale.

Sustainable fashion and sportswear must be high on the political agenda:
Three University of Manchester academics who specialise in fashion and textiles have criticised the Government for failing to take action to boost sustainability in the UK fashion and sportswear industries.

In an article published by the University’s policy engagement unit Policy@Manchester to coincide with the 20th annual Recycle Week, Lindsay Pressdee, Dr Amy Benstead and Dr Jo Conlon highlight that, of the one million tonnes of textiles disposed of every year in this country, 300,000 tonnes end up in landfill or incineration with figures suggesting 10 per cent of global CO2 emissions may come from the fashion industry.

And they warn that the damage inflicted by discarded sportswear is often overlooked, “despite an over-reliance on polyester garments, which are harmful to the environment as the fabric releases microfibres and takes hundreds of years to fully biodegrade.”

Pressdee, Benstead and Conlon stress the importance of establishing “sustainable behaviour throughout the supply chain” and praise the European Commission for proposing an “extended producer responsibility (EPR)” for textiles in the EU which “aims to create appropriate incentives to encourage producers to design products that have a reduced environmental impact at the end of their life.”

This contrasts with the UK where, they argue, “tackling sustainability in the fashion industry has lost its place on the political agenda.”

"We are calling on the Government to reintroduce textiles as part of the school curriculum to engage young people in sustainable materials and equip them with the basic skills required to repair clothes.”
Lindsay Pressdee, Dr Amy Benstead and Dr Jo Conlon

The University of Manchester academics contend that there has been “disappointing lack of progress from the UK Government” following the House of Commons Environmental Audit Committee’s Fixing Fashion report in 2019.

They continue: “This report included a call for the use of EPR as well as other important recommendations such as a ban on incinerating or landfilling unsold stock that can be reused or recycled and a tax system that shifts the balance of incentives in favour of reuse, repair and recycling to support responsible companies. We urge the Government to think again and drive forward the Committee’s recommendations in order to put sustainable fashion back on the political agenda.”

Pressdee, Benstead and Conlon also criticise Ministers for abolishing the standalone GCSE in textiles which provided many young people with the ability to mend clothing such as football kits instead of throwing them away.

They write: “We are therefore calling on the Government to reintroduce textiles as part of the school curriculum to engage young people in sustainable materials and equip them with the basic skills required to repair clothes.”

The University of Manchester has launched a new project dedicated to tackling the impact of textile waste in the football industry through the provision of workshops tasked with transforming surplus football shirts into unique reusable tote bags, whilst educating local communities on the environmental impacts of textile waste and how to extend the life of garments. The initiative aims to provide a fun, responsible way to keep kits in circulation while shining a light on the problem.

The adoption of composite parts based on flax fibres by the Marine Industry continues to grow, with major OEMs as well as smaller shipyards now aiming to take advantage of the reduced carbon impact and impressive mechanical properties they can provide.

“Over the last ten or fifteen years, several innovative flax fibre boats have been built and the fibre has started to gain significant traction,” says Julie Pariset, Innovation & CSR Director at the Alliance for European Flax-Linen and Hemp. “In addition to the environmental benefits, manufacturers are realising significant technical and processing gains with flax fibre composites.”

“Flax is a very low-density fibre, with a high specific stiffness,” she explains. “It can be used to manufacture composite laminates with mechanical properties not dissimilar to typical E-glass composites and the coefficient of thermal expansion of a flax fibre epoxy part is also quite close to that of a carbon fibre part.” This allows the materials to work well in combined assemblies with carbon fibre composites and the flax parts are also highly impact resistant.

Flax fibres also provide acoustic and vibration damping in composite applications, as well as providing a warm and aesthetically pleasing appearance below decks.

ecoRacer30
As a member of the Alliance for European Flax-Linen and Hemp, Bcomp, headquartered in Fribourg, Switzerland, has this year been working with Northern Light Composites (nlcomp), based in Monfalcone, northern Italy, on the creation of what is billed as the first fully recyclable nine-metre-long sailing boat – the ecoRacer30.

The boat is based on nlcomp’s proprietary rComposite technology – a combination of thermoplastic resins and BComp’s ampliTex high-performance natural fibre reinforcement fabrics and patented powerRibs technology.

It was built in a collaborative effort with the help of Barcelona-based Magnani Yachts, which took care of the composite manufacturing, and Sangiorgio Marine, which provided technical assistance as the boat was being assembled at its shipyard in Genova, Italy.

Magnani Yachts has subsequently become the first shipyard to hold an rComposite license and others are now being encouraged to adopt the technology.

The second ecoracer30 is currently under construction and has already been sold and nlcomp is planning to build a fleet of eight of these boats in time to enter a series of regattas in the summer of 2025.

Flax 27 Daysailer
Greenboats, based in Bremen, Germany, is another specialist in building boats from natural fibre composites and has this year launched the Flax 27 daysailer.

The lower hull of this vessel is also made from Bcomp’s ampliTex technical fabrics in combination with a sandwich core of recycled PET bottles. Using a vacuum infusion process, the fibres were integrated with a plant-based epoxy resin in order to further reduce the CO₂ footprint of the vessel.

The light structure and modern shapes of the lower hull of the boat result in very fast, sharp and agile handling on the water.

Greenboats has also recently announced significant new backing from alliance member Groupe Depestele, which manages 13,000 hectares of flax land in Normandy, France.

Blue Nomad
A project in Switzerland has meanwhile proposed the use of flax fibre composites in solar-powered habitats designed for comfortable living on the oceans – as the world grapples with the frightening implications of climate change and rising sea levels.

As envisaged by students from Institut auf dem Rosenberg in St Gallen, Switzerland working with Denmark-based SAGA Space Architects, Blue Nomad structures would form modular blocks to establish large communities and oceanic farms.
 

Autoneum Holding Ltd has been awarded the gold medal in the 2023 EcoVadis sustainability rating, ranking the automotive supplier in the top 5% of companies assessed. Following a silver medal the previous year, the Company was able to further improve the overall rating of its sustainability performance in the four categories Environment, Labor and Human Rights, Ethics and Sustainable Procurement and achieved the second-highest recognition level.

As part of its commitment to transparency towards its stakeholders and the public at large, Autoneum reports regularly on its key developments and achievements in the area of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR). In addition to reporting in line with the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) standards, Autoneum uses external platforms such as EcoVadis – a globally recognized sustainability rating agency – to assess the quality of its sustainability management system. EcoVadis uses 21 criteria based on international CSR standards to rate companies in four categories: Environment, Labor and Human Rights, Ethics and Sustainable Procurement. Since its foundation in 2007, EcoVadis has assessed the sustainability performance of more than 100 000 companies from 175 countries.

In the 2023 sustainability rating by EcoVadis, Autoneum achieved gold medal status for the first time, placing it in the top 5% of companies assessed. Having already been awarded the EcoVadis silver medal in 2022, Autoneum thus moved up to the second-highest recognition level in this year’s rating, thanks to significant progress in the Environment and Labor and Human Rights categories.

More information on Autoneum’s sustainable products and processes can be found in the current issue of the Corporate Responsibility Report.

INDA, The Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announces that Director of Government Affairs Wes Fisher was named a 2023 Top Lobbyist by the National Institute for Lobbying & Ethics (NILE). The list includes professionals with legislative success in 2023, have been innovative in their field, are held in high regard by their peers, give back to their community through charity or pro bono work, and adhere to the highest ethical standards.

Fisher joined INDA in 2022, he previously held senior government affairs positions at the Pet Advocacy Network and the National Automatic Merchandising Association. His work at INDA has included interfacing with lawmakers, regulators, and stakeholders at the state, local, federal, and international levels and participating in UN negotiations regarding the ongoing Global Plastics Treaty. He serves on the board of directors of the Washington Area State Relations Group (WASRG) and in 2022 was appointed by the Governor of Virginia to the Virginia Rare Disease Council.

PREMIUM Berlin will not take place in January 2024. The critical developments in the industry, and the changed global economic situation are presenting big trade fair formats with a new dimension of challenges.
 
PREMIUM, which started as an underdog in 2003 and established an entire segment in the industry, has developed into an icon. The original concepts and approaches have shaped the fashion world. However, as is so often the case in the fast-moving fashion industry, even outstanding success stories come to an end. The management team led by Anita Tillmann and Jörg Arntz recognised this change and paved the way for SEEK, which was launched in 2009.
 
The entire industry has changed significantly in recent years and is still undergoing a transformation. It has become clear that large trade fairs are no longer in keeping with the times. Instead, boutique trade fairs and specialised events are trending. Events like SEEK enable a closer connection between exhibitors, visitors and the community, which is of great economic and social importance in today's world.

SEEK, which has focussed on its core segment in recent years and serves the streetwear segment, will continue its mission with its loyal network. The platform has not only established itself for forward-thinking brands, but is also the proud organiser of the "Conscious Club", the largest hub on the topic of sustainability in the industry. Here, visitors and exhibitors will not only find the most important trends and ideas in the field of sustainability, but also the most exciting new collections from the pioneers who are responsible for the positive changes.
 
With a clear focus on product quality, community building and strong values such as honesty, creativity, and resilience, SEEK is able to meet the needs of its target audience. So far, the feedback from the committed brands has been consistently positive. The SEEK team is pleased to be able to continue to rely on this commitment and build on it. Around 200 brands are expected again in January.
Berlin will continue to be a place where new trends are set, creative collaborations are formed, and business is done.
 
Although the decision to close PREMIUM is the end of an era, it does not mean the end for the fashion world, but rather opens new doors and enables new opportunities. SEEK is ready to shape this change with like-minded partners and continue to make a significant contribution to the development of the industry.