From the Sector

The philosophy guiding Officina39's innovation and development ranges fluidly between exploration of color, denim heritage and artistic expression, but has sustainability and the search for environmentally friendly chemical solutions for the fashion industry as its cornerstones. This is the core vision that accompanied the Italian company, when presenting its latest technologies and collaborations at Denimsandjeans in Tokyo from November 1-2.

Denim & Art
Juan Manuel Gomez, Officina39 Creative Leader, represents the company’s multidisciplinary approach and combines artistic expression with a thorough technical experience. His explorations were drawn on the Denim Art Wall at the fair. Furthermore, in the interactive seminar “Art & Denim As A Process Of Repetition” he explained that there is a constant act of repetition as automatic drawing or pictorial act in the processes of the textile industry.

The SS24 collection
The Multicolor Denim Dreaming collection is a combination of several Officina39’s sustainable key technologies:

• Nebudye D: a wide range of fresh colors to obtain a unique dyeing effect in nebulization/fog system machinery and can be discharged in a creative way with Oz-One Powder, an advanced product to give garments a bleached yet eco-friendly treatment, and Remover IND/J-N, Officina39’s solution to replace the use of Potassium Permanganate (PP) on denim and obtain a worn and distressed vintage look.
• Novantic series: a combination of selected dyestuffs with a special mordanting agent suitable to obtain surface dyeing to provide vintage or old look effects.
• Recycrom™: a patented dyestuffs range obtained through a cutting-edge upcycling process that involves textile fibers from used clothing and manufacturing waste for dyeing and printing applications. Its sustainable and revolutionary powders assure a whole universe of denim effects: from classic authentic vintage to acid wash look (Eco Marble), from printed effect (Indigo Replica) to worn and distressed vintage look (Recycrom™ Dirty).
• Just One Step Process: an innovation that saves time, energy, space and of course water, by combining several phases of the Aqualess Mission at the same time: a raw garment enters the machine and a garment with a basic vintage effect comes out ready to be dried, already treated, bleached and softened.
• Remover Activator: a technology that in combination with PP replacement products creates in one step general bleaching, localized corrosion and highlights effects on jeans.

Owing to evolving pandemic circumstances in Shanghai, the organisers have announced that Cinte Techtextil China will no longer be taking place from 7 – 9 December 2022 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai). A new fair date in 2023 will be announced in due course.
 
Ms Wilmet Shea, Deputy General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, explained: “While it is unfortunate that Cinte Techtextil China cannot take place as scheduled, after holding talks with stakeholders we decided that deferring the fair was necessary to comply with the government’s pandemic control measures. I would like to thank all participants for their patience and continued support, and to reiterate our resolve to provide a safe platform for the technical textile and nonwovens industry to congregate next year.”

From 7 – 9 December 2022, Cinte Techtextil China will welcome visitors sourcing solutions for 12 application areas of technical textiles and nonwovens at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai.

A number of countries and regions are represented at the fair’s International Zone, with companies from Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, and the US. Standout international exhibitors include:

• TESTEX, an international, independent Swiss institute which specialises in the testing and certification of textile and leather products. The organisation is a founding member and official representative of the OEKO-TEX® Association, and will present their certification services at the fairground.
• Cotton Council International (CCI) is a non-profit trade association that promotes US cotton fibre and manufactured cotton products, with their COTTON USA™ Mark. At this year’s fair they will showcase cotton spunlace fabric, wipes, kitchen tissues, facial masks, cosmetic removers, and more, with their products particularly applicable to Agrotech, Clothtech, Medtech, and Sporttech.
• Graf + Cie AG is a subsidiary of the Rieter Group, and a leading supplier of clothing for carding and combs for combing machines in the short- and long-staple spinning industry. This year, the Swiss company will showcase stationary flats, and metallic card clothing for roller cards.
• At the returning German Pavilion, buyers can source sought-after technical textiles and nonwovens that are renowned for their quality. The companies and expertise on display at this pavilion are endorsed by the Federal Republic of Germany, with several exhibitors highlighted below:
• Brückner Textile Technologies GmbH & Co KG has developed machinery for the textile industry since 1949. Today, the company offers complete line systems for the dry finishing of both woven and knitted fabric, as well as for technical textiles, glass fibres, and floor coverings.
• Perlon (Zhejiang) Co Ltd is part of a global group of companies that specialises in the manufacture of synthetic filaments, with factories in China, Germany, Poland, and the US. Their products have a diverse range of potential uses, largely categorised in the Agrotech and Indutech application areas.
• IBENA Textilwerke GmbH produces various functional fabrics for Protech. At the fair, the company will be showcasing insulative, flame retardant (FR) textiles for firefighting and search & rescue services. Developed with DuPont™ aramid material, their FR properties will not diminish after washing or repeated use.

This year’s fair also sees the return of the Taiwan Zone. With support from the Taiwan Nonwoven Fabrics Industry Association, the area will showcase a range of industry leading nonwoven products and services, by brands such as KNH Enterprise, Nan Liu Enterprise, Unique Pretty Ind, and Web-Pro Corporation.

As a world’s largest manufacturer of technical textiles, China is home to a vast array of companies responsible for innovative products. Some domestic exhibitors to look out for are:

• CTA Hi-Textiles Co Ltd, a high-tech enterprise controlled by China Textile Science Research Institute. In recent years, the company has developed several new textile composite materials, and their products are widely used in sectors such as national defence, policing and public security, medical protection, and engineering and manufacturing.
• Sateri is one of the world’s largest producers of viscose fibre, with an annual capacity of 1.8 million metric tonnes. At their mills, they make yarn and fibre products applicable to sectors such as beauty, hygiene and personal care, medical, wipes, and protective wear.

To help international buyers stay connected with the Chinese market, Match Plus, the fair’s online business matching platform, will support foreign buyers achieve their sourcing goals despite travel limitations. Further information on Match Plus will be available at a later stage.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions.

Rieter is presenting the latest innovations in its systems, components and services at the upcoming India ITME 2022 in Uttar Pradesh (India), taking place from December 8 – 13, 2022.

Autoconer X6
The automatic winding machine Autoconer X6 completes the Rieter ring and compact-spinning systems. The machine serves as the final quality assurance in the ring and compact-spinning process and is key to the performance of the subsequent process stages. The Multilink system with Multilot offers maximum flexibility to handle a different type of yarn.

The latest splicer generation OZ1 and OZ2 provides an optimum splice quality based on an open prism. With only two prisms spinning mills can splice the entire spectrum of cotton yarns as well as blends. They are also used for the splicing of cotton-based elastic core yarns in combination with the Elastosplicer. The splice zone exhibits an impressive elasticity in the fabric.

Compacting Solutions
The Rieter compacting devices include the COMPACTapron, COMPACTeasy and COMPACTdrum. Spinning mills can change quickly between ring and compact yarn and offer customers a broader product range.

Recycling Expertise from Rotor to Ring
Rieter offers solutions for the integration of recycled raw material into yarn production to help close the textile loop and make fashion more circular. Both rotor and ring yarns can be produced with a considerable amount of mechanically recycled fibers.

ESSENTIALorder
Based on existing customer information, the webshop ESSENTIALorder visualizes which Rieter machines andn systems are available inside each spinning mill. It therefore offers a personalized shopping experience and facilitates order management, enabling spinning mills to optimize their internal stock levels.

ROBOspin
The piecing robot ROBOspin reduces personnel requirements in the ring spinning section by 50%. The robot also attains productivity increases thanks to higher spindle speeds at equal or higher efficiency.

SSM NEO-FD
SSM is presenting NEO-FD, the assembly-winding machine for precision wound packages for twisting. It meets all requirements for efficient production. The machine features the auto-doffing option and the online back-pressure system for low and high package densities.

Temco CoolFlow Disc
Temco’s CoolFlow texturing discs offer longer lifetime thanks to a brand-new geometry and the latest polyurethane technology. The texturing discs now generate a disc surface that operates at a lower temperature, resulting in slower ageing and abrasion. Further benefits are more stable yarn quality, higher productivity, and an overall process cost reduction.

• Strategic partnership for automation system in the field of slot dies and coextrusion adapters

Reifenhäuser Extrusion Systems (RES) - the Reifenhäuser Group's business unit specializing in extrusion components - announces a strategic partnership with maku AG at K 2022, the world's largest plastics trade fair. The aim of the cooperation is the joint marketing and further development of the automation system designed by maku for coextrusion adapters and slot dies.

The so-called PAM system (precise, autonomous, mechatronic) is available immediately and exclusively as an automation option for new Reifenhäuser dies and adapters, as well as for aftermarket dies across all manufacturers. PAM enables producers in the field of flat film and sheet production as well as extrusion coating to precisely control the entire hot part (coextrusion adapter and die) via the line's control panel. This is significantly faster and more accurate than conventional control by hand or expansion bolt automation. It enables faster start-up of good production, higher output with lower energy consumption, and thus significantly improved overall equipment efficiency (OEE). The decisive advantage lies in the use of motorized manual adjustment bolts that replace conventional thermal expansion bolts. Reifenhäuser presented the system for the first time at the K 2022.

JEC Forum DACH‘s primary goal is to promote the DACH region’s dynamic composites ecosystem. Besides an extensive program of business meetings and conferences, innovation will have a special place in Augsburg from November 29 to 30, 2022 as attendees will have the opportunity to witness the JEC Composites Startup Booster and the AVK Awards. Winners of both competitions will be announced during a dedicated ceremony on November 29th.

The five finalists are:

BioWerkz: Closing the Loops
At BioWerkz a new bio-based, resource-efficient, and CO₂-negative material called “NEWood” is developed,  using only wood waste and agricultural waste bound using fungal mycelium; the root network of mushrooms as a natural binder without the need for any synthetic binders.

Bufo Technology – HARDCORK: High-Performance Biobased Composite – Superior by nature
Bufo Technology has developed the high-performance composite material HARDCORK® made from cork, fibers and a thermosetting matrix. HARDCORK® can be manufactured as a core material, sandwich panel or complex molded part.

Cavicore: Water soluble salt cores for the production of hollow carbon fiber parts
CAVICORE produces ready-to-use water soluble cores for the realization of hollow composite parts. Their “lost cores” have the advantage of being temperature-resistant, stable as well as eco-friendly and recyclable, as they consist of pure salts without binders.

Composite Recycling: Closing the loop on Composite Materials
Composite Recycling has developed a highly energy efficient and sustainable process to separate the resin from the fibres. With the Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne, the team has designed a post-treatment to clean the fibres and make them reusable in new composites, closing the loop.

Microwave Solutions GmbH: Imagineering a sustainable future
Agile and modular microwave plasma and selective depolymerization technology for molecular recycling, fiber recovery and nanomaterial creation.

HeiQ will showcase some of its latest technologies at the Taipei Innovative Textile Application Show – TITAS 2022, from the 12th to the 14th of October, at the Taipei Nangang Exhibition Center. A newly launched, upgraded formula - HeiQ Barrier Eco Dry New, is added to the company’s fluorocarbon-free water repellent technology range and will be one of the highlights.

As urbanization and modern lifestyles cause an estimated 40% of the global population to be afflicted by allergies, HeiQ recently launched HeiQ Allergen Tech, a finish based on bio-based synbiotic technology to combat inanimate allergens on textiles. It will also be introduced at TITAS.

HeiQ innovations driving change
The global call for sustainability has put the textile industry, as the second-highest generator of CO₂ emissions, under the spotlight. Most of the marine pollution is caused by non-degradable micro-and nanoparticle emissions from washing clothes, and tons of textile items pile up in landfills. Clothing a potential 8Bn global population by 2023 doesn’t have to be a problem, and HeiQ is driving change in the textile industry so that every player can be part of the solution. In response to the ongoing energy crisis, HeiQ will emphasize the use of HeiQ Clean Tech, a polyester dyeing auxiliary system that helps mills save energy by 30-35%, thereby reducing the carbon footprint of the finished product.

Following its deferral earlier this year, organisers announced that Cinte Techtextil China 2022 will take place from 7 – 9 December at the National Exhibition and Convention Center, Shanghai. The coming edition will address the latest trends, technologies and applications that are shaping the industry and market in the region.

“We are excited that Cinte Techtextil China is going ahead this year,” said Ms Wilmet Shea, Deputy General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. “The technical textiles and nonwovens sectors are constantly innovating, and congregating regularly to share new materials and knowledge is essential for the industry. For this reason, this year’s fair has attracted international and domestic exhibitors from Austria, Belgium, Mainland China, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, and the US to grow their business in the enticing Chinese market.”

The Chinese market performance has remained strong amidst the pandemic. According to the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA), China’s nonwovens output has an average two-year growth rate of 14.8% despite the decreased demand for anti-pandemic materials. In addition, China strengthened its position as one of the key drivers of the global technical textiles market due to the rapid expansion of the automotive sector in the country which stimulates high demand for technical textiles.
To help international buyers stay connected with the Chinese market, Match Plus, the fair’s online business matching platform, will support foreign buyers achieve their sourcing goals despite travel limitations.

The fair is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA).

Für den ressourceneffizienten Einsatz von Kunststoffen entwickelt Fraunhofer UMSICHT neue Werkstoffe. Im Fokus stehen dabei Biokunststoffe, eine zirkuläre Kunststoffwirtschaft sowie Strategien zur Reduzierung von Makro- und Mikroplastik in der Umwelt. Fraunhofer UMSICHT präsentiert sich auf der K 2022 mit chemischen Zwischenprodukten aus Kaffeesatz, Folienwerkstoff auf Basis von TPU, PLA-Compounds für technische Bauteile mit erhöhtem Brandrisiko und abbaubaren Mulchfolien.

Forschende des Fraunhofer UMSICHT gewinnen im Projekt »InKa«, das die Wertschöpfungskette von Kaffeesatz erforscht, aus dem ungenießbaren Kaffeeöl ein chemisches Zwischenprodukt, das bei der Herstellung von Additiven für Kunststoffe zum Einsatz kommt. Den entölten Kaffeesatz versuchen sie, als alternativen Rohstoff für die Papier- und Kartonindustrie zu nutzen. »Eine besondere Herausforderung bei unserem Projekt ist das Scale-up der Verfahrensschritte vom Labor zur industriellen Fertigung. Das angestrebte Verfahren als Ganzes ist hoch innovativ und leistet einen wichtigen Beitrag bei der Nutzung von biobasierten Rohstoffen im Rahmen der Bioökonomie. Im Labormaßstab sehen wir bereits, dass unser Konzept aufgeht: Wir konnten die entwickelten Additive bereits in neuen Werkstoffrezepturen testen«, erklärt Inna Bretz, Abteilungsleiterin Zirkuläre und Biobasierte Kunststoffe des Fraunhofer UMSICHT.

Röntgendetektierbare Mehrwegschutzbekleidung
Die Entwicklung eines Folienwerkstoffs auf Basis von thermoplastischen Polyurethanen (TPU) und röntgendetektierbaren Additiven war das Ziel des Projekts »DetekTPU«. Bei der Produktion von Nahrungsmitteln ist Einwegschutzbekleidung zu tragen, um Sicherheits- und Hygienevorschriften einzuhalten. Neben einer großen Mengen Plastikmüll ergibt sich dabei zusätzlich das Problem, dass Teile der Schutzbekleidung in den Nahrungsmitteln landen können und dort nicht detektiert werden. Der entwickelte Werkstoff soll für zuverlässig röntgendetektierbare Mehrwegschutzbekleidung eingesetzt werden. Dies ist für dünne Kunststofffolien eine bisher nicht gelöste Herausforderung. »Die bisherigen Projektergebnisse sind vielversprechend, aktuell planen wir weitere Entwicklungsschritte mit unserem Projektpartner. Hierzu soll das Team um Experten aus dem Bereich Folienherstellung erweitert werden.«  berichtet Christina Eloo, Gruppenleiterin Kunststoffentwicklung.

Biobasierte Kunststoffe für technische Bauteile mit erhöhtem Brandrisiko
Technische Bauteile mit erhöhtem Brandrisiko, etwa in der Elektronikindustrie, erfordern flammgeschützte, wärmeformbeständige und schlagzähe Kunststoffe. Ein Großteil davon wird auf Erdölbasis hergestellt, dessen Vorräte begrenzt sind. Biokunststoffe erreichen jedoch oftmals noch nicht im vollen Umfang das vom Markt geforderte Eigenschaftsniveau konventioneller technischer Kunststoffe. Die Grenzen liegen insbesondere beim Brandverhalten, einer ausreichenden Temperaturbeständigkeit oder Schlagzähigkeit. Hier setzt »TechPLAstic« an: Es werden PLA-Compounds für langlebige Produkte anwendungs- und marktnah entwickelt - unter Berücksichtigung der jeweiligen Anforderungen und Kosten. Der Anwendungsfokus liegt zunächst auf technischen Produkten des Elektronik- und Bausektors wie beispielsweise Leuchten oder Schalter und Tasten in der Gebäudetechnik.

Mulchfolien mit angepasster Abbaubarkeit
Biologisch abbaubare Kunststoffe sind in umweltoffenen Anwendungen sinnvoll, bei denen ein Recyclingprozess nicht möglich oder mit einem zu hohen Aufwand verbunden ist. Beispiele hierfür sind Geotextilien oder Mulchfolien. Fraunhofer UMSICHT forscht an Kunststoffen mit angepasster Abbaubarkeit, die während der Nutzungsdauer die gewünschten Eigenschaften erfüllen. Zur Untersuchung und Bewertung der Eigenschaftsänderungen von Kunststoffen während der Alterung durch Umwelteinflüsse werden durch die Forschenden im Labor die Bedingungen so anwendungsnah wie möglich eingestellt. Dazu können je nach Produkt verschiedene Substrate (Kompost, Erde, Wasser), verschiedene Temperaturen und UV-Licht eingesetzt werden.
 
Förderhinweise

• Das Projekt »InKa – Intermediate aus industriellem Kaffeesatz« wird im Rahmen der Fördermaßname »Nationalen Forschungsstrategie BioÖkonomie 2030« der Bundesregierung durch das Bundesministerium für Bildung und Forschung (BMBF) gefördert.
• Das Projekt »DetekTPU« wird vom Bundesministerium für Wirtschaft und Energie aufgrund eines Beschlusses des Deutschen Bundestages gefördert.
• Das Projekt »TechPLAstic« wird durch die Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohrstoffe e. V. (FNR) und aus Mitteln des Bundesministeriums für Ernährung und Landwirtschaft (BMEL) gefördert.

27^th International Garment Machinery, Spare Parts and Sub-Industry Exhibition, one of the largest exhibitions in Europe ended with great interest. The IGM 2022 Exhibition, which hosted ready-to-wear investors and leading brands of the garment machinery sector in Istanbul for 4 days, satisfied the exhibitors with the number of foreign and domestic visitors and machinery sales.

IGM 2022, Turkey's first and only international exhibition in its field, has become the most comprehensive meeting point of the sector where all technologies used in garment and ready-to-wear production from sewing to cutting, ironing systems to packaging, embroidery to printing are exhibited. IGM 2022, the first international exhibition organized in the garment industry after the pandemic, turned into a platform where many firsts were achieved. Especially domestic machinery manufacturers introduced the latest technologies and innovations developed in the last 4 years for the first time at IGM 2022. In addition, the latest models of embroidery machines were exhibited in working condition only at IGM 2022. International buyers, who had the opportunity to observe and examine all the innovations in the apparel and ready-to-wear sector together, had the opportunity to direct their investments thanks to IGM 2022.

The exhibition, organized in partnership with Tüyap & Teknik Fairs Inc. and in cooperation with KOMİD- Garment Automation Machinery Manufacturers Association and İNSAD- Istanbul Embroidery Industrialists Association, was held at Tüyap Fair and Congress Center on September 8-11. The IGM 2022 Exhibition, which was attended by 100 companies and company representatives from countries including Turkey, Japan, USA, China, South Korea, Brazil, Brazil, Italy, Spain, Germany, Greece, Netherlands, Bangladesh and Iran, was visited by 9822 sector professionals from 64 countries, including 1483 international and 8339 domestic visitors.

Next Meeting on September 21-24, 2023
The next meeting of the IGM 2023 Exhibition will be held at Tüyap Fair and Congress Center between September 21-24, 2023. Considering the dates of the exhibitions organized in the same sector in different countries of the world and Europe and the gains of the sector, an exhibition calendar was determined for the IGM Exhibitions to be held biennially. IGM Exhibition will be organized in 2023 and the following odd years (such as 2025-2027) in order to prevent companies from being under the burden of exhibitions in terms of both time and budget due to participating in more than one exhibition in the same year.