From the Sector

The need for real dialogue becomes ever more crucial
Amid reconstruction, the world is facing severe realities. In the midst of political disorder, environmental problems, and social scandals, how do we seek the light within the darkness of chaos? As societies become inundated with global waves of conflicting news, the need for real dialogue becomes ever more crucial. Personal interaction is irreplaceable – communicating with nature, reading the signs, and sensing the wind. Creating emotional connections with others and opening the mind to rationality. Now is the time to solidify core values with responsibility and identify key essences of life.

The view from a fashion perspective: toughness and resilience
How will fashion respond to these ever-changing turbulent times? Will fashion allow other elements to penetrate our lives whilst innumerable other issues make their presence felt? Fashion is meant to console, to provide a retreat during unpredictable times. At its core, fashion represents unhindered confidence and allows us to freely express ourselves. Let us address how to best confront negative forces through fashion and mindful resilience.

Intertextile Directions Spring / Summer 2019 Trend Forum
Developed by renowned trend experts from Tokyo, New York, Milan and Paris, the Intertextile Directions Trend Forum will present three trends for Spring / Summer 2019 under the overall theme ‘Dialogue’: @ sense, # couture and e. native. Exhibitors’ fabrics will illustrate the colour, fabric and print styles of each trend.

Overall colour trends
This season witnesses an enriched palette, encapsulating a refined and premium feel. Refreshing and vivid colours introduce a sense of vitality and elicit creativity.

As well as the international trends for Spring / Summer 2019, three Fabrics China Trend Forums will illustrate the domestic trends for ladieswear and menswear, as well as a ‘Fashion Focus’ area. A number of seminars will also be held to give more insight into the S/S 19 trends.

In addition to Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, four other textile fairs also take place at the National Exhibition and Convention Center: Yarn Expo Spring, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition, fashion garment fair CHIC and knitting fair PH Value.

Lectra brings together partnership schools and industry experts to discuss how changing professions
in fashion are impacting training programs

Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using fabrics, leather,
technical textiles and composite materials, recently welcomed partners from the world of
education to the company’s Bordeaux-Cestas campus for its eighth education congress. The
event was dedicated to the mega trends shaping the fashion industry and impacting
professions from design to production.

Over fifty representatives from among the most important fashion schools in Germany, Canada, China,
USA, France, Hong Kong, Italy, The Netherlands, Poland, United Kingdom, Switzerland and Sweden, participated
in this biannual meeting between industry experts and teaching professionals.

Fashion professions are evolving as companies make their first steps towards Industry 4.0, adopting 3D
and rationalizing the lifecycle management for their collections thanks to PLM. Lectra’s congress enabled
schools to discuss the developing role of designers and patternmakers, and the new elements to be
integrated into training programs.

Lectra illustrated future changes through presentations on design, patternmaking, 3D prototyping, and PLM.
“It is fundamental to bring innovation experts in the industry together with fashion schools, because
students will drive the evolution of this industry,” stated Pascal Denizart, Managing Director of the Centre
européen des textiles innovants (CETI).

Working with schools to design courses which meet the needs of fashion companies has always been at
the heart of Lectra’s education program. During the event, the company presented collaborative
experiences between partner schools and fashion brands, such as the competitions organised by Lectra
with Missoni, Balenciaga, and Armani in Italy, as well as Peacebird in China and JC Penney in the United
States.

In the United Kingdom, Lectra collaborated with COS (H&M group) and the Arts University Bournemouth
(AUB) for a competition centred on the design of a collection with zero waste.
“The process was totally digital, from design to the creation of a virtual prototype in 3D. Our students learnt
to optimize each stage of the process. By leveraging the use of Kaledo®, Modaris® and Diamino®, the
collaborative work between AUB, COS and Lectra is exactly the type of project that enormously motivates
our students. Live briefs developed with leading fashion brands and Lectra offer excellent opportunities
which directly inform industry currency and student employability,” explained Penny Norman, a lecturer at
AUB.

The event also shone the spotlight on China and its major role in the evolution of the fashion industry.
Li Min, Vice-Dean of the fashion and design faculty at Donghua university in Shanghai spoke of the event,
organized by Lectra, which brought together major Chinese companies, experts, and representatives from
the biggest schools in China.

“Exchanges on the impact of the Made in China 2025 plan on the fashion industry can better prepare
students for tomorrow’s professions, where digital and automation will occupy a far more central position
than today,” testified Li Min.

"The fashion industry is evolving so fast that sharing insights and best practices with experts and other
fashion schools has become vital to ensure we offer the best learning experience and technology tools to
our students", said Dr. Trevor J. Little, Professor of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management in
the College of Textiles at NC State University.

“Lectra’s eighth education congress confirms the company’s commitment to our partner schools. We
shared our analysis of the market, the digitalization of the eco-system, and how Industry 4.0 principles can
be applied to the fashion industry. We also discussed mass customization and the role of PLM. While these
are key subjects for our customers, many schools are only now approaching them. We are preparing
tomorrow, today: Lectra is supporting our customers, and schools to play an essential role,” concludes
Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra.

• 'Cotton Insights' Looks to the Future
• Register now!
• Save the Date! The countdown has started for the renowned International Cotton Conference, which will take place from 21st to 23rd March 2018 in Bremen.

As its theme 'Cotton Insights' illustrates, the Cotton Conference will provide a deep insight into the world of cotton, determine future challenges and offer solutions. Solutions that are not only important for the specialised cotton world, but also for the entire cotton supply chain from processing to textile retailing, because they focus on the needs of the end consumer.

The conference traditionally takes place in the historic Town Hall of the Hanseatic City of Bremen, in the immediate vicinity of the Cotton Exchange. Once again, more than 450 participants from around the world are expected. The Bremen Cotton Exchange and the Fibre Institute Bremen are the joint hosts of the Conference.

"We used the time after the end of our Cotton Conference in March 2016 to carefully analyse market developments and determine current topics and areas of activity that are of intense concern to the industry. They are of great benefit to the participants, so it's worth the visit", emphasise Elke Hortmeyer, Director of Communications and International Relations at the Cotton Exchange and Axel Drieling, Senior Manager Cotton at the Fibre Institute Bremen.

The subjects range from traceability and authenticity testing of cotton, to new requirements for cotton quality, process optimisation through digitalisation, future trends and production and, last but not least, the status of the sustainability debate. In all segments, the Conference offers informative lectures and panel discussions which appeal to a wide audience and are of overriding interest. Separate forums are offered for experts in the fields of science and research.

On Tuesday, March 20th, prior to the International Cotton Conference, the publisher and editors of the leading national daily newspaper “Weser Kurier” invite participants to their economic summit 'Sustain', in cooperation with the Bremen Cotton Exchange. Here, an expert forum will discuss development prospects on the African continent. As is well-known, almost 55 million people in Africa live from cotton cultivation which will be one of the focal points.

As of now, potential interested parties will receive up to date and detailed information about the Conference content and its subjects on the Conference homepage, as well as in regular newsletters and, moreover, by active press work. It is already possible to register for the Conference online and to make hotel bookings via the Bremen Tourist Office. Please, find further information here: http://cotton-conference-bremen.de/
 

Intertextile Shanghai concluded its 2017 Autumn Edition on 13 October as the strong business results and praise from the worldwide participants once again affirmed its reputation as the world’s most effective apparel fabrics and accessories trade event in terms of boosting sales and product sourcing. Knowing the fair covered an all-encompassing range of products that cater to all sourcing needs, 77,883 buyers travelled from 102 countries and regions (2016: 73,927, 90 countries and regions) to Shanghai to source. This year, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Korea, Russia, Taiwan, the UK and the US were the top 10 visitor countries and regions after Mainland China.

Meanwhile, a total of 4,538 exhibitors from 32 countries and regions (2016: 4,553, 29 countries and regions) also enjoyed the surge of business potential brought by this large number of high-quality trade buyers. The strong line-up of exhibitors, including 10 country and region pavilions – France, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Japan, Korea, Milano Unica (Italy), Pakistan, Taiwan and Thailand – as well as 10 Group Pavilions organised by foremost industry leaders like DuPont, Hyosung, INVISTA and Lenzing, presented a full-spectrum of innovative and fashion offerings in 11 halls across 276,000 sqm (gross) exhibition area, an increase of nearly 6% compared to 2016.

While the nature of textile trade fairs has evolved over recent years, exhibitors’ successful results at this year’s Intertextile Shanghai shows that it is still the industry’s most effective order-writing and business development trade show because it remains the event where the global industry gathers to make purchasing decisions. As a result, many exhibitors see the fair as their business growth engine, and reported positive outlooks for sales after the fair.

Exhibitor opinions
 Ms Erika Jimenez, Development and Purchasing Department, Luca Cuccolini, Spain (SalonEurope)
“A few years ago we decided to explore the Chinese market. Knowing that Intertextile Shanghai is the most comprehensive fair of its kind in Asia, there was no doubt that this would be the fair to expose our brand. Throughout the years we have been satisfied with the visitor flow and business opportunities, especially this year. There has been a good flow of a diverse range of buyers visiting our booth, and we’ve already met with abundant potential buyers on the first day. Our objective is still to get our brand known to local buyers, and by looking at the progress in the first two days, we are even expecting to get orders later on.”

Mr Jean Denerolle, General Manager, Dormeuil, France (Premium Wool Zone)
“There has been lots of visitors coming to our booth on the first two days. Joining Intertextile Shanghai is an effective ways for us to develop the Chinese market. We are happy that the organiser referred a VIP buyer to us. Overall, we succeeded in receiving orders and promoting our brands, so I am pleased with the result this year.”
Mr Max Deery, Global Director, Print Stories Ltd, (for Amanda Kelly Ltd), UK (Verve for Design)
“We are satisfied with the results this year. The Verve for Design zone is well organised, and it’s a busier year compared to last. After day one, we’ve already found more than 10 potential buyers, both old and new customers. We’ve participated in other fairs in Europe as well, and I would say Intertextile Shanghai is in line with these shows, and busier than we expected.”

Mr Luca Maderna, New Age srl, Italy (Verve for Design)
“It’s our 10th year exhibiting in Intertextile. Given the large scale, we can always find new contacts here, and it’s also a great opportunity for us to present our new collection to our regular customers.”
Mr Ederhard Ganns, Managing Director, Union Knopf (HK) Ltd, Germany
“Our target clients are mainly brand owners and resellers. I have successfully met with them and have some promising contacts. We have also developed some new connections with both domestic and overseas customers. Intertextile Shanghai is no doubt the world’s number one show.”

Ms Kang Nan Hee, Assistant Manager, R&D Textile Co Ltd, Korea (Korea Pavilion)
“This is our 10th year at Intertextile Shanghai. Every year, we participate in both the spring and autumn fairs and they have never let us down. Not only can we meet numerous new buyers in each edition, we can also keep pace with the ever-changing market trends in the fabric industry. Besides that, in terms of visitor flow, this fair has always been the strongest. Take this year’s fair as an example. In our estimation, we have already received enquiries from almost 300 buyers and agents on the first two days, which has exceeded our expectations. Therefore, we are expecting some 400 orders in total by end of the fair.”

Mr Taku Ito, Manager, Sojitz Vancet (Shanghai) Trading Co Ltd, Japan (Japan Pavilion)
“We exhibit at this show to find new customers and sales channels in China. We’ve been joining the show for a while now, and we continued this edition as we can always meet new customers – I mean, really ‘new’. This year, there were about 400 companies that visited our booth. It’s also interesting that we are getting more online apparel shops visiting us lately.”

Ms Susan Hon, B2B Marketing Communication Director, North Asia, INVISTA Co Ltd, Hong Kong (Functional Lab & Group Pavilion organiser)
“With the help of Intertextile Shanghai – the most well-known platform in the industry – we can promote our newly launched products more efficiently and enhance the influence of our brand. Our booths were packed with visitors over the three days, with many of them high-quality buyers. Intertextile has always been one of the most important trade fairs for us because of its strength in attracting a wide range of buyers, including an unrivalled number of market-leading brands that no other fairs can offer.”

Mr Martin Yang, Marketing Manager, Nilit Nylon Technologies (Suzhou) Co Ltd, Israel (Functional Lab)
“Our management is satisfied with the results as this is where we can boost our business and sales. On the first day, we’ve already met with nearly 20 potential buyers that are very likely to develop into new orders after the fair. The most attractive trait of Intertextile Shanghai is its ability in gathering large numbers of trade buyers. More importantly, the majority of them are quality buyers who aren’t only our target customers but also keen to place orders. This fair is seen by the industry as the major platform to source as it includes more industry leading suppliers, raw material providers, fabric mills and garment manufacturers compared to other similar fairs, and this is why we are here.”

Mr Syed Kamran Shah, Marketing Manager, Soorty Enterprises (Pvt) Ltd, Pakistan (Beyond Denim)
“Our objectives are to establish connections with Chinese brands and manufacturers, as well as to learn buyers’ expectations in this market. We are happy with the visitor numbers, and Intertextile Shanghai is where buyers really come to make purchasing decisions. Buyers came to talk to us and run tests on our fabrics afterwards, and usually within 2-3 months’ time, we will receive orders. We also like the idea of the Beyond Denim hall as it ensures the effectiveness of gathering and getting in touch with our target buyers.”

Mr Štěpán Kučera, Managing Director, Preciosa Components, China (Accessories Vision)
“This has been Preciosa’s third consecutive appearance at the autumn edition of Intertextile Shanghai, where we continue to see an increase in attendance by our target customers, namely high-end fashion brands from both the Chinese and international markets. Among the 200-plus buyers we met on the first two days of the fair were domestic fashion brands, sourcing managers of overseas brands, garment producers, as well as OEMs & ODMs, and we are more than satisfied with the results. Compared to similar fairs in which we have participated, Intertextile has a stronger focus on sourcing and manufacturing. International brands tend to send their sourcing teams, while local manufacturers and vendors also source here.”

Ms Shanshan Lu, Client Manger, Beijing Ecocert Certification Centre Co Ltd, China (All About Sustainability)
“As Intertextile Shanghai is the largest fair of its kind, we can always find our target customers here which are manufacturers from the Greater China area and the Asia Pacific region. The All About Sustainability zone has enhanced the exhibiting effectiveness as it creates a strong theme that attracts the right visitors to our booth. I think the visitor flow is stronger than last year. On day 1 alone, we received enquiries from over 10 potential customers which included old and new accounts. Moreover, by sharing our certifications in the seminar, our brand got further promoted in the fair. All in all, we are very pleased with this year’s outcome and very likely will return again next year.”
Worldwide buyers impressed with the unparalleled range of sourcing options on offer
While the exhibitors highly valued the fair’s ability in attracting quality, genuine buyers from around the world, these buyers were pleased to find all categories of apparel fabrics and accessories products from the entire industry under one roof.

Buyer opinions
Mr Johnny Lau, Head of Material Management, Quiksilver Asia Sourcing Ltd, Hong Kong
“The strongest trait of Intertextile Shanghai is its scale and aptitude in gathering the entire industry in one place. I believe no matter which sector of the industry or market you belong to – suiting, casual wear or ladieswear; high-end or fast fashion – you are ensured to find the right suppliers here. The fair houses a full-spectrum of suppliers which ease the sourcing process for purchasing departments like us. To maintain brand competitiveness, it is getting more important for us nowadays to know about suppliers and manufacturers from around the world, so we were also impressed with the fair’s internationalism and had unexpected returns from this trip.”

Mr Luis Alfonso Yepes Londono, Manager, Yetex SAS, Columbia
“Among all trade shows, Intertextile Shanghai is the most influential one for my business, even compared to the European shows. Not only can I find local suppliers, but the fair literally puts brands from around the globe under one roof. This morning I discussed with three local companies that match my interest. Their fabrics were of good quality and competitive pricing, so I will soon make a decision and place orders.”

Ms Zhou Jie, General Manager, Shenzhen New Look Fashion Co Ltd, China
“Intertextile Shanghai is a comprehensive trade fair, and what’s unique about this fair is its unparalleled ability in gathering both domestic and premium international apparel fabrics and accessories suppliers. Therefore, the sourcing options in this fair cater to all market demands. I can say Intertextile is a fair that all fashion brands can’t miss as one can definitely find all kids of materials here. We sent over 10 colleagues from the sourcing and design departments to this year’s fair and sourced around 80% of the fabrics we need for the next season’s collection from about eight exhibitors.”

The next Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics is the Spring Edition, held from 14 – 16 March 2018.
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics is co-organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre. For more details on this fair, please visit: www.intertextileapparel.com. To find out more about all Messe Frankfurt textile fairs worldwide, please visit: www.texpertise-network.com.

As a combined effort of the CSI color team and DyStar’s technical experts, DyStar and CSI are launching the first 2 issues of the Sustainable Color and Trend magazine with Cadira® color palettes.

This new magazine inspires Designers and Color Managers by offering palettes and color combinations that are Eco-friendly and Inspired by Nature. Not only does the magazine include a wide range of color palettes, but also color validation in CSI’s Relative Color Popularity (RCP) information as well as sustainable dye recipes that have been formulated based on the Cadira resource optimization process.

The Cadira Concept is a module in DyStar’s Resource Efficiency program. It helps to considerably shorten lead times and reduce water, waste and energy consumption. Cadira Concepts have been developed for different substrates and dyeing procedures. This launch focuses on both reactive dyeing of cotton as well as polyester & recycled polyester dyeing.

The reactive-issue – Inspired by Nature – offers color palettes with softer, muted tones, levels of neutrals and earthy shades of green. The recipes are based on DyStar Levafix® and Remazol® combined with Sera® chemicals for an optimized dyeing and wash-off process.

The Polyester issue offers more vibrant color options with saturated colors and brights for active wear and outdoor clothing and accessories. The recipes are based on Dianix® dyes and the dyeing process can be optimized by use of the Optidye® PES program.

“We are conscious about our environment so we wanted to create a magazine with an ecological color and optimized processes so that our customers can pick the right color that will help them reduce their environmental impact in the design process.” Says Ron Pedemonte, VP of Sales and Marketing Americas.

CSI will fcus more on color palettes with ecological dyes and low impact processes when offering color and trend information to customers in the future. More eco-friendly color palettes will be available very soon.

More information about CSI color trends and the Cadira process is available in the DyStar Website and CSI Website. www.dystar.com / www.csicolors.com

Color Solutions International, a member of the DyStar Group is launching their Color Analysis for Spring/Summer 2019. Color Analysis is CSI’s trend forecasting magazine that provides high-level global color trend information for color managers, directors and designers to support the color palette development process. It contains a forecast of key colors, accents and core neutrals that will be most relevant for the upcoming seasons. The forecast is based on consumer reports, detailed market research, current social trends and generational mindsets. Every issue features an artist who influences and inspires forward thinking.

The magazine includes a seasonal color palette selected from a wide range of approximately 9,000 CSI colors. The color palette is also available as cotton swatches sold on a ring. Part of the CSI service offering is to provide color direction based on a wide scope of palette searches as well as validated color use. Every issue will include an exclusive Relative Color Popularity (RCP) report, which provides color validation based on seasonal color palette usage by comparing similar hues.
CSI and DyStar support brands, retailers and their business partners from development to production. The CSI and DyStar team of experts work together and assist their customers in color development, communication as well as in the dyeing and quality inspection process to achieve best possible results and sustainable fashion. All CSI products are produced with high-quality, eco-friendly DyStar colorants.
“The Color Analysis Magazine is an important feature of our service for designers, offering them competitive color trends for upcoming seasons. At CSI, we are here to assist with color selections and provide all the necessary tools needed for a successful seasonal palette.” -CSI Color and Trend Director.

On June 28th, at Sala Riunioni Area Monumentale (1st floor), Filpucci is celebrating its 50th anniversary with the press conference: “Fifty years of Filpucci - History tells the future”.
An enduring vocation for pioneering values and reliable manufacturing processes, both traceable and transparent, as shown by Re.VersoTM supply chain, a circular economy model, of which it is a member and exclusive reference point in the framework of high-end/low impact yarns for knitwear with the Collection Ninetyfive, now available in stock service, for an innovation available on request, thus marking a further breakthrough. From Stella McCartney to Eileen Fisher, from Filippa K to Patagonia, the fashion system’s big labels have opted for the regenerated yarns Re.VersoTM by Filpucci, thus sharing a new business philosophy: an environment-conscious and responsible approach, with does not relinquish style, but elevates it far forward style & trends. Filpucci, true Italian excellence for 50 years, has widened its range of smart Re.Verso™ products thus encompassing:
• The yarn Baby Camel Re.VersoTM produced with Re.Verso™ baby camel and mixed with 50% extra-fine Merino Wool comes in two yarn counts (1:13000nm and 2:13000 nm twisted). A delicate, rich and super soft yarn, with indescribable touch, which preserves its natural proprieties and comes in a selection of refined shades.
• The new Divette item, coming in two yarn counts (1:15000nm, 2:26000 nm twisted), yet again sheds light on the pioneering attitude of a manufacturer aiming to offer soft and creative combed and twisted yarns, that are unmistakably innovative and come in different degrees of thinness. Sophisticated, exceptionally soft and warm yarns, made with cashmere Re.Verso™ fibres mixed with extra fine wools.

Lectra achieved record financial results in 2016: €260.2 million in revenues, rising 10%, and € 26.7 million in net income, an increase of 14%. The Group consolidated its positions in automotive, and fashion and apparel, as well as acquired strong positions in furniture. Lectra has entirely transformed itself and today benefits from its bolstered technological advance, the enhanced expertise of its teams, an extended global footprint, and a refurbished campus.

Looking ahead, Lectra is in a strong position to carry out its new strategy, carefully conceived to empower its customers to step into the Industry 4.0 era. In close collaboration with global customers, Lectra has identified four mega trends that will change the business: the Millennials generation, the digitalization of companies, the emergence of Industry 4.0, and profound changes in China’s economy. Their impact, set to intensify, represents considerable challenges. Lectra’s annual report analyses the implications of these mega trends, and outlines the company’s response.
Helping customers to tackle such challenges, Lectra is gearing up to commercialize Software as a Service (SaaS), leveraged by cloud technology. Its expert knowledge of business combined with ten years’ experience in the industrial Internet of Things and rising investments in R&D, means Lectra is in a formidable position to help its customers seize opportunities in the new industrial age.