From the Sector

Laying the bases for a more sustainable world, adopting responsible strategies is no longer an option but an indispensable and compulsory structural revolution today and for the future to come. This topic is the subject of the Smart Voice "The Circular Stories of C.L.A.S.S.: the journey of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei towards a smart, responsible and contemporary luxury" organised by C.L.A.S.S. eco hub that has taken place on Thursday 27th May at 4 pm CET. 4 unique and complimentary design realities has been sharing  the  Bemberg ™ choice as unique and precious fibre ingredient that gives rise to a performing design incorporating new generation values, for their unique paths of style and fashion to offer to the contemporary consumer.

Specialist and expert of innovative fibres, during the session Ettore Pellegrini, Marketing & Sales Manager-Marketing & Sales Manager Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia, illustrated the history of Bemberg™ starting from its origins to nowadays, reporting its various applications that have been then illustrated in their uniqueness by the speakers of the session.

Paolo Verdoia, Lining research and development raw materials at Ermenegildo Zegna, who has been involved in the development of accessory raw materials for the Ermenegildo Zegna Group for 14 years. During the digital meeting he talked about priority collaborations with responsible and high quality materials such as Bemberg™, the brand's approach to sustainability and future projects.

The session has also been attended by new generation designer Gilberto Calzolari winner of C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2020, who used Bemberg™ in his latest AW 2021-22 collection entitled "At this stage".

Camilla Carrara, founder and zero-waste designer Zerobarracento says "We select Bemberg™ for our creations for two fundamental reasons: firstly, from a stylistic point of view for its extreme versatility: in the various collections we have adopted it to create Kimonos, padded jackets, wrap dresses as well as for the interiors of our garments, which are intended to be soft embraces for total physical and mental comfort. The second but no less important reason is that this fibre has circular values in line with our zero-waste commitment."

“By choosing to work with Bemberg™, we have made an exclusive and sustainable choice in order to offer tailors, designers, brands and garment manufacturers who believe in and are committed to responsible but at the same time premium and exclusive fashion a new business opportunity" says Alessandro Ivaldi Director Business Unit of Carnet, a division of Ratti Group that produces and distributes worldwide fabrics for the creation of made-to-measure garments for men and women.

We aRe SpinDye (WRSD) and Gina Tricot have entered into a collaboration agreement. The partnership formed between the two companies is a strategic milestone for both parties.

"Gina Tricot has made impressive progress in the area of sustainability recently and it is fantastic that we get the opportunity to participate and contribute going forward", says Andreas Andrén, CEO of WRSD and continues: "The collaboration is completely in line with our ambitions to become an industry standard for coloring recycled polyester."

Gina Tricot is a Swedish brand that offers fashion to women in over 30 countries.
"Together with WRSD, we can create a better, more sustainable and circular fashion industry. We are convinced that the future lies in collaboration and innovation between the various tiers of our value chain", says Emma Garrote Fredman, Global production & Sustainability manager at Gina Tricot.

The spring editions of the three fairs – Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles and Yarn Expo Spring – that were due to take place from 10 – 12 March 2021 will be postponed, with a new date to be announced shortly. Messe Frankfurt made the decision along with the co-organisers of the fairs to comply with local authority guidelines.

Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd explained the decision: “In compliance with the Shanghai Municipal Center for Health Promotion’s pandemic prevention and control guidelines for exhibition activities, and after careful evaluation and discussion with relevant stakeholders, we have decided to postpone the three fairs to a later date. We have begun a discussion with the three fairs’ stakeholders as well as the fairground regarding a new date, and aim to hold the rescheduled shows within March to minimise the impact to our exhibitors and buyers and still accommodate their buying needs for the current spring / summer season. While the new dates will be announced shortly, we are grateful in the meantime for the understanding and patience of all those involved.”

Further information:
Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics
Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles
Yarn Expo

• Miles Johnson and ISKO’s Creative Room present the new responsible collection.

The second edition of this partnership tells the story of a unique combination of creativity and expertise brought to the table by ISKO’s style and design center, Creative Room Italy, and the innovative designer Miles Johnson, resulting in a collection featuring responsible R-TWO™ fabrics and a selection of sustainable accessories and details.

An act of care for the planet and its people, Light on the Land 2.0 is the new capsule designed by Miles Johnson and ISKO. Former Design Director at Levi Strauss & Co. and Senior Creative Director of Product Design and Development at Patagonia, Inc., Miles joined forces with Creative Room and Iskoteca, ISKO’s Italian style and washing research hubs, to develop a collection that brings responsibility in the fashion industry to the next level.

The project includes 32 unique pieces, each of them realized with seasonless designs and sustainably-minded details. All the fabrics used in the collection were carefully selected from ISKO’s R-TWO™ platform. Using a mixture of reused cotton and recycled fibers, the technique embeds material circularity into the production processes, designing waste out of the system and minimizing impact at scale. Certified to Textile Exchange environmental credentials according to the percentage of materials contained, R-TWO™ ensures better use of raw materials and resource efficiency. ISKO’s Environmental Product Declarations (EPD®s), available for all its +25,000 products, offer a unique opportunity to measure the impact of R-TWO™’s savings in the Lifecycle Assessments (LCAs) framework, where resource savings can be seen in carbon impact, water-use reductions and many other impact KPIs.

Light on the Land 2.0 incorporates responsible design principles such as Cadica’s new and innovative trims, made of vegan apple “leather”, and has been developed using ecoconscious finishing techniques. The collection also features many additional sustainable facets such as efficient low-waste pattern cutting and design, efficient sewing methods, removeable rivets for end-of-life and biodegradable thread which can be removed at high heats.

“When we first started working on this project, we knew it was going to be amazing,” explained Massimo Munari, Manager and Art director Creative Room, ISKO. “To design a collection like this, you need to begin with the right mindset and of course, the right materials. R-TWO was the perfect ingredient, thanks to the re-used and re-cycled content. We then aimed to minimize impact at all stages: incorporating sustainable design ideas, washing processes and trims. We are proud to have created such an inspiring, and sustainable collection, and to bring our collective vision to light.”

Due to the unprecedented challenges of this time, the collection was entirely developed through remote working and creative solutions to ensure the safety and health of all parties involved. To this end, everyone was kept safe thanks to ISKO Vital™+ reusable and eco-friendly face covers, created with organic cotton to cater for comfort and sustainability.

• Italian creativity merges with Chinese technological innovation to create a new capsule collection
   

A new era is born in the world of denim, Paolo Gnutti and Advance Denim will combine their skills to create capsule collections for both the US and Asian markets.

These collections will combine Paolo Gnutti’s artistry and Advance denim’s technological innovation to create “magical” inspiration that is with the reach of all brands.

Advance Denim has the distinction of being the oldest denim manufacturer in China and has dedicated its efforts since day one around the core beliefs of innovation , service , quality and people. These core beliefs are the foundation of their day to day focus of becoming a world leader in denim. They are also  committed to making the most sustainable denim possible and they are constantly investing in the infrastructure and systems that will help them to reach aggressive sustainability goals . Sustainability is important but Advance Denim has always been true to denim and strive to produce innovative high-quality products that exceed the needs of the market

“We are looking forward to Paolo bringing his Italian artistic aesthetics to our denim.” Said Ms. Amy Wang, General Manager of ADVANCE DENIM. “ We believe it is the combination of eastern and western design and culture that have never been offered to our customers before and will take Advance Denim to a whole new level. It is our goal to also offer these high quality designs at a competitive price from our Vietnam facility.” conclude Ms. Wang.

Paolo Gnutti, a life time dedicated to denim innovation and creativity, bases the creation of his collections following  precise themes and  stylistic contaminations. He uses indigo bases which are completely transformed thanks to the use of flocks, 3D prints, colored foils and metallic effects.

Paolo Gnutti has the ability to conceive ground breaking fashion, thanks to his incredible creativity and visionary irreverent combination that ushers in a new concept of  fashionability to the denim world.

“ My passion and my professional exploration lead me to acquire the skill needed to develop unforgettable and unique textile concepts” said Paolo Gnutti “ I’m trilled to begin this collaboration with Advance Denim. I feel that we need a new challenge in our denim world, a new era of true globalization; we will create a capsule collection that will reach all customers, from premium to the mass market.”

A new era begins, based on the evolution of the  market and the search for innovation and inspiration that is both technically performance driven and accessible to all brands.

• Bemberg™ presents a great deal of novelties with a true key-statement for sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular!
• The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber Cupro derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing.

“Sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources”.

In Bemberg™’s production the whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA (Istituto per la Certificazione Etica e Ambientale) and validated by President of Ecoinnovazione Paolo Masoni ex Research Director of ENEA (Ente per le Nuove tecnologie, l’Energia e l’Ambiente).

While recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange (an influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns), Bemberg™ yarns are also entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free - meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

A special focus deserves Velutine™ Evo, the new fibrillation finishing technology for Bemberg™ fabrics only that guarantees another level of sustainable benefits without sacrificing the Bemberg™ amazing and unique touch. As part of the company’s continuous innovation, Velutine™ Evo brings better environmental, energy and water profiles for the benefit of Bemberg™ partners in the manufacture of their ranges.
The sustainable achievements of the new finishing technology have been measured by LCA - Life Cycle Assessment study by ICEA and proved to guarantee environmental benefits such as -16.5% of greenhouses gas emissions and -21% of overall consumption of energy resources. On top of that Velutine™ Evo means also -20.5% of electricity savings, -15.9% of steam production and -19.5% of water consumption.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

Bemberg™ collaborated also with the premium brand CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO uses Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it’s unique colour.

CAALO uses as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit. This versatile blazer features a removable hood, hidden welt pockets, button closure, and removable cargo pockets.

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition will return from 24 – 26 August 2020 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai), organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA). Stepping into its 26th edition, the trade fair will provide exhibitors the perfect opportunity to introduce new products and expand their distribution networks, as well as serving as a source of information and inspiration for professionals in every aspect of the industry.
 
Celebrating its 25th anniversary last August, the Autumn Edition of Intertextile attracted 1,147 exhibitors from 27 countries & regions, as well as 35,390 trade buyers from 117 countries & regions (2018: 104), reflecting the increasing internationalism of Messe Frankfurt’s textile fairs in China, and the growing opportunities for international suppliers to meet a wide range of buyers in Shanghai. The trade fair’s capacity to attract large and diverse crowds has reinforced its status as the leading business platform for the home textile industry in the Asia Pacific region.
 
In the next edition, a large collection of quality Chinese companies, as well as premier overseas brands will once again present the entire spectrum of home and contract textile products including:

• Textile editors
• Whole Home Products
• Windows & Upholstery
• Bedding, Bath, Kitchen & Table
• Carpets & Rugs
• Sun-Protection
• Wallcovering
• Digital Print & Technics
• Fibers, Yarns & Chemicals
• Textile Designs

Opportunities abound in China’s home textiles market
 
“The upcoming Autumn Edition of Intertextile is set to offer suppliers and buyers the best platform to capture new business opportunities, especially as we continue to focus on bringing together more key players from the textiles, interiors, architecture and hospitality sectors in China and internationally,” Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd said.
 
“Over the years, Intertextile has been evolving from a traditional trade fair to an immersive and interactive experience that inspires and engages attendees. Today, the fair is more than a business platform; it also delivers state-of-the-art home trends, valuable networking opportunities, as well as innovative and strategic solutions for brand development through a series of fringe programme events,” Ms Wen further explained.
 
As one of the selected exhibitors featured in the Talks & Tours series at the 2019 fair, Mr Thomas Luys, Sales Manager of LIBECO-LAGAE: “We had quite a diverse range of visitors, including an increase in e-commerce buyers, but also more traditional upholstery fabrics buyers. Our booth was also part of the Talks & Tours, so it was important to tell our story to a diverse range of visitors on this tour.”
 
 
To find out more about this fair, please visit: www.intertextilehome.com.
For more information about Messe Frankfurt textile fairs worldwide, please visit: http://texpertise-network.messefrankfurt.com.

• Huntsman Textile effects redefines dyeing of polyester including microfiber and blends with UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant
• Eco-friendly diffusion accelerant provides reproducible, high-speed polyester dyeing

Singapore – Huntsman Textile Effects introduces UNIVADINE® E3-3D next-generation diffusion accelerant to help mills achieve high-performance dyeing of polyester, microfibers and blends in an environment-friendly way that complies with current and anticipated industry sustainability standards.

The demand for polyester and man-made fibers is booming as sports and athleisure apparel markets expand rapidly around the world. At the same time, big-name brands that set trends in the sector continue to increase focus on sustainability and performance. As such, this is putting pressure on mills since the current industry standard involves chemically active diffusion accelerants that contain unwanted chemicals and require additional leveling agents and anti-foaming products that may be hazardous to people and the environment.

Developed by Huntsman Textile Effects specifically to meet these challenges, UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant is low-odor, free of benzyl benzoate and other hazardous substances. Part of Huntsman’s range of innovative dyEvolution™ dyeing auxiliaries, it uses Huntsman’s Active Diffusion Technology to enable high-speed dyeing with best-in-class leveling, retarding and migration properties.

“UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant delivers across three key dimensions – diffusion, leveling and migration – for exceptional performance and environmental and economic sustainability. Its environmental credentials offer mills greater processing flexibility and an optimum price-performance ratio,” said Kerim Oner, Global Marketing Manager for Dyeing Auxiliaries at Huntsman Textile Effects. “We expect this latest offering to change the way that the industry dyes polyester and blends while meeting stringent environmental standards.”

UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant has a high affinity to polyester, causing the fiber to swell and increasing the diffusion of the disperse dye, even at lower temperatures. Multiple leveling mechanisms then slow down the exhaustion rate to ensure safe, defect-free dyeing. Finally, as the dye bath heats up, the product’s strong support for disperse dye migration ensures the dye molecules are evenly absorbed.

As a result of this cutting-edge diffusion technology, UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant can be used to successfully dye polyester fibers in tightly wound or high-density yarn/beam dyeing and is suitable for jet applications without the need for anti-foaming products. Reducing exposure to high heat, its Active Diffusion Technology minimizes the potential to damage the elastane in polyester-elastane blends and provides for on-tone dyeing of microfibers. The superior migration support of UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant also increases reproducibility, allowing mills to dispense with additional leveling agents. Polyester, microfibers and blends treated with UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant comply with the requirements of bluesign®, in addition to being suitable for Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® and an approved input dyeing auxiliary chemical for GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified textile products*.

• “Fashion Goes Digital” takes the Lead in Fashion Technology
• Customers get Industry 4.0-ready as Lectra unveiled latest product offerings and shared insights at annual fashion VIP event

Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, put theory into practice at its recent fashion event by unveiling their latest 4.0 Cutting Room to more than 100 privileged industry professionals.

“Fashion Goes Digital” drew industry stakeholders and market experts from 20 countries, who gathered at Lectra’s International Advanced Technology Center (IATC) in Bordeaux-Cestas, France, to examine the real-life application of digitalization in fashion.

While the topic of digitalization served as a backdrop for the event, there was a recurring theme at the forefront: fashion companies need Industry 4.0 technology and support in order to be more precise in meeting the evolving needs of their digitally savvy consumers.
Nick Chiarelli, Client Partner of Foresight Factory, shed light on new business opportunities for fashion, Nora Kühner, founder of Nora Kühner Fashion Design Consulting, used her designer perspective to decode the digital future of product development, and Fabrizio Fantini, founder of Evo Pricing, showed participants how machine learning could help fashion companies predict consumer demand and avoid waste.

“While speaking about the future challenges and trends in fashion and luxury, the trend now is to use analytics to drive the entire production process,” highlighted Stephen Taylor, Principal Director of Kurt Salmon.

Waruna Tennakoon, General Manager of Group Cutting, Brandix, and Ajith Perera General Manager of Mathliya Plant, MAS Kreeda, also shared their Lectra customer experience. Based in Sri Lanka, both companies have established themselves as the country’s largest apparel exporters, with Brandix specializing in producing intimate and activewear, and MAS Kreeda in sportswear.

“Thanks to the digital revolution, consumers are now more specific in their demands. This will cause a shift in mass manufacturing where there will be smaller-volume orders coming in at a faster rate. As a result, manufacturing models have to be more agile in the immediate future,” explained Ajith Perera, “I am happy to see that Lectra is already spearheading this change by providing us with the necessary technology to help us meet market demand.”

There was no better time to put digitalization into context than during “Fashion Goes Digital”.
VIP guests got a sneak preview of the brand new, fully automated cutting room solution for fashion and apparel. Lectra’s Cutting Room 4.0 is an embodiment of Lectra’s commitment to empowering its customers with the best solutions to thrive in this new digital era. This avant-garde technology leverages industry 4.0 principles to provide greater agility, throughput, cost efficiency and in particular scalability in order to respond seamlessly to small batches orders and shorter lead times.

Jean-Yves Collet, CEO of Treize Roches Couture, a high-end French womenswear manufacturer, provided a testimonial on why his company chose to be one of the first to adopt this new solution. He explained how Lectra’s latest technology would help Treize Roches speed up their artisanal production process to bring products faster to market.

“When we discussed the possibility of a made-to-order production project, we could really foresee the benefits both in terms of quality and productivity. Industry 4.0 solutions do not yet exist in garment manufacturing. This is why we have decided to develop an Industry 4.0 cutting room. This will allow us, in the preparatory stages to automate the processes as much as possible and improve quality, productivity and training time.”

“We have unveiled our strategy last year where we have identified Industry 4.0 and digitalization as our key drivers. Our goal for this event is to show that we are, indeed, living and breathing Industry 4.0 and we do have what it takes to help our customers succeed in this era. Our latest cutting room 4.0 shows that we are not just talking about the future of fashion anymore, we are living in it right now as we speak,” concluded Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra.

• Debut BCI Pavilion joined by Sateri and Birla Planet Pavilions to showcase eco-friendly products
• Six special display zones cater to latest industry trends

Green products continue to be sought after more and more by consumers nowadays, and textiles are no exception. In order to promote sustainable development throughout the industry, a number of yarn and fibre manufacturers have endeavoured to introduce green products into the early stages of textile production, and Yarn Expo, as the leading yarn and fibre business platform in Asia, serves as an ideal stage for these suppliers to gain exposure to buyers looking for such products.

Debut BCI Pavilion joined by Sateri and Birla Planet Pavilions to showcase eco-friendly products

Amongst a record number of exhibitors at this October’s Yarn Expo Autumn, the debut BCI Pavilion as well as the Sateri Pavilion and Birla Planet Pavilion that include eco-friendly products are certainly amongst the highlights this year. Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is a global organisation with more than 1,000 members including spinners, weavers and garment manufacturers throughout the entire cotton sector. It aims to promote sustainable cotton production, benefiting workers, customers and the environment as a whole. They will form the BCI Pavilion in Yarn Expo for the first time, with five spinners showcasing their cotton yarn manufactured with eco-friendly cotton.

Sateri is a well-known brand in China which specialises in viscose rayon. This natural and high-quality fibre is made from trees grown on renewable plantations. They are the largest producer of viscose fibre in China with three mills and an annual capacity of 550,000 tons, and also have Oeko-Tex certification. This October, nine other domestic exhibitors will form the Sateri Pavilion to demonstrate their comfortable textiles and skin-friendly hygiene products made from viscose fibre.

With over 50 years of experience in manufacturing cellulosic fibres, Birla Group strives to provide greener, purer and safer products to its customers. The Group has operated in China for three years now, and values Yarn Expo’s effectiveness in helping them to promote their brand and attract a wide range of buyers. “We managed to get connected with a number of downstream buyers at the fair. We have introduced our company and products to them that there is great chance for future cooperation.” said Mr Peter Dong, Senior Manager of Aditya Birla Group.   Coming back this year, the Birla Planet Pavilion will feature three of their highlighted fibres – Birla Viscose, Birla Modal and Birla Spunshades at the fair.

Six special display zones cater to latest industry trends

The textile industry in China is undergoing a structural change with keen competition, so domestic suppliers have to develop innovative and quality products to satisfy the ever-changing markets. To match the specific needs of various buyers, Yarn Expo has established six distinct display zones gathering the leading domestic companies, namely Colourful Chemical Zone, Natural Cotton Yarn Zone, Fancy Yarn Zone, Quality Wool Zone, Green Linen Zone and e-Commerce Zone.

Not only are a number of chemical fibre products with innovative, eco-friendly and health & comfort properties on offer from exhibitors, but visitors can also gain insights into product trends in these areas from the 2017/18 China Fibre Trend Area and Innovative Textile Material Forum, both of which feature in the Colourful Chemical Zone. The Natural Cotton Yarn Zone is another highlight of the three-day show, where exhibitors will showcase their natural cotton yarn and a range of functional products. Around 50 suppliers will also showcase their latest collections in the expanded Fancy Yarn Zone.
In response to the strong demand for fibre and yarn products in China and the Asian region, the coming autumn edition of Yarn Expo will double its exhibition space, and will accommodate around 500 global yarn suppliers from 13 countries and regions. Together with Yarn Expo Autumn 2017, three other textile trade fairs are held concurrently from 11 – 13 October in the same venue: Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition, PH Value and the China International Fashion Fair (CHIC).

Yarn Expo Autumn is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; The Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; China Cotton Textile Association; China Wool Textile Association; China Chemical Fiber Association; China Bast & Leaf Fibres Textiles Association; and China Textile Information Centre.