From the Sector

OETI – Mitglied der international tätigen TESTEX Gruppe – kauft das deutsche Unternehmen ECS, um sein Services-Portfolio im Bereich persönlicher Schutzausrüstungen (PSA) zu erweitern.

Seit rund 40 Jahren bietet das OETI – mit Hauptsitz in Österreich, Prüfungen für textile Arbeitskleidung an. Ab1993, mit der Einführung der CE-Kennzeichnung für persönliche Schutzausrüstung und dem Erlassen der PSA-Richtlinie durch die Europäische Union, prüft das OETI nicht nur textile persönliche Schutzausrüstungen, sondern zertifiziert sie auch EU-konform. Im Jahr 1995 erfolgt OETI‘s Notifizierung in Brüssel als Notified Body (0534) für Baumusterprüfungen und die Überwachung der Qualitätssicherung für das Endprodukt von persönlicher Schutzausrüstung. Geprüft und zertifiziert wird gemäß der aktuellen PSA-Verordnung (EU) 2016/425.

Die ECS GmbH - Prüf- und Zertifizierungsstelle für Augen- und Gesichtsschutz mit Sitz in Aalen wurde vor 15 Jahren gegründet und ist eine weltweit agierende Institution für die Prüfung und Zertifizierung von Augen- und Gesichtsschutzgeräten. Für persönliche Schutzprodukte bei Laseranwendungen und für Schweißarbeiten ist das Unternehmen eine der führenden unabhängigen Prüfeinrichtungen.

Die ECS prüft und bewertet Arbeitsschutzbrillen mit und ohne Filterwirkung, passive und aktiv-schaltende Schweißerschutzfilter und -abschirmungen, Laserschutzfilter, -brillen und -abschirmungen. Ebenso prüft das Unternehmen die optischen Eigenschaften von Sonnen-, Sport-, Ski-, Schwimm- und Motorradbrillen.

Nach der Übernahme durch OETI bleibt der ECS-Standort in Aalen erhalten, alle Mitarbeiter*innen sind weiterhin bei der ECS tätig. Neuer Geschäftsführer der ECS GmbH ist ab 1. Juli 2023 Dipl.-Ing. Rolf Diebolder.

„Wir sind auf dem europäischen, auf dem amerikanischen und über eine Vertretung auf dem chinesischen Markt präsent. Mit Hilfe der neuen Vertriebswege durch OETI und TESTEX wollen wir den Ausbau der ECS stetig vorantreiben und auf allen fünf Kontinenten präsent sein.“, so Geschäftsführer Rolf Diebolder.

Weiteres Potenzial in der Zusammenarbeit sieht Diebolder auch in Bezug auf Laserschutzkleidung. Hier könne das von der ECS beauftragte Laserlabor dazu genutzt werden, um Textilien Laserschutz-sicher zu machen. Es wird in Zukunft immer mehr „hand-held“ Geräte geben, also Laserschweißgeräte, für die man Handschuhe und Schutzjacken benötigt.

ITMA 2023 was a successful platform for the flat knitting machine manufacturer STOLL to present its latest new developments. The business unit of the KARL MAYER GROUP will be following up this fair on 3 July with the launch of a further innovation package. With the solutions contained in this package, STOLL will be offering its customers additional added value when using their flat knitting machines - in line with the concept of bundling innovations.

The new features include an optimised central lubrication system that reduces both maintenance effort and oil consumption, this as standard from July 2023 for all models of the CMS and ADF series produced in Reutlingen.
Compared to the previous optional variant, it ensures more efficient and comprehensive lubrication. All needle bed elements, from the holding-down jack to the coupling part and intermediate slider to the selection jack, are now supplied with oil. The machine itself recognises whether lubrication is required. Independently of this, the lubrication intensity and oil distribution can be adapted to the individual machine conditions by setting various parameters, if required. To ensure that the required amount of lubricant is reliably supplied, a message is sent if the level is too low.

In addition, a new oil drain container as standard equipment for all CMS and ADF models catches used oil from the needle bed under the machine. This prevents soiling of floors or knitted fabrics. The emptying of the container can be efficiently managed by an adjustable reminder function. The neat and at the same time sustainable solution does not require cleaning agents or hoovers and offers the possibility to reuse the oil after cleaning through special filters, if necessary.

Users of CMS and ADF belt take-down machines can benefit from optimisations around the belt take-down. Thanks to the new STOLL innovation package, this can be turned forwards and backwards by means of a switch as standard in order to easily eliminate fabric wraps and thus reduce maintenance times. In addition, a mirror, which is also fitted as standard, ensures a simple visual check of the belt take-down.

Another solution of the STOLL innovation package from July 2023 includes new cams that enable split-stitch implementation without cam box modification. This reduces manual effort and thus conversion times and costs. The feature is standard on all fine gauges ADF and CMS machines.

For the W machines from STOLL, there is now a further inlay yarn carrier, the Qt, in addition to the previous Qw yarn carrier. The extension means that the number of inlay yarn carriers used in a system can be increased from the previous one to three. No additional system is required for the weft yarn, and the process steps weft yarn insertion and knitting take place in the same system.

MAS Holdings, a global apparel & textile manufacturing and tech conglomerate, headquartered in Sri Lanka, secures a stake in HeiQ AeoniQ™ as part of its Plan for Change initiative to support the development of next-generation cellulosic filament fibers to replace polyester and nylon.

HeiQ from Switzerland and MAS Holdings entered a partnership for MAS to secure a stake in HeiQ AeoniQ GmbH, a subsidiary of HeiQ Group that will produce HeiQ AeoniQ™, a climate-positive cellulosic yarn.

With this investment, MAS Holdings becomes the first manufacturer to partner with HeiQ AeoniQ™ in their efforts to provide a sustainable alternative to polyester and nylon. The investment to be made by MAS Holdings is part of the group’s strategy to drive a positive environmental impact. The MAS Plan for Change aims to generate 50% of the company’s revenue through sustainable products by 2025, revolutionizing the textile industry with a focus on innovation, sustainable sourcing, and pioneering circularity at scale.

With the closing of this deal, HeiQ and MAS agreed to a 5-year Offtake Agreement for 3,000 tons of HeiQ AeoniQ™ yarn in 2025 and 5,000 tons per year from 2026 to 2029, valued by HeiQ in the aggregate to US$ 100 million. MAS will finalize this commitment within a stipulated time period after achieving milestone 1, and a mutual plan for commercialization. HeiQ and MAS firmly believe that rapid scaling is key to facilitating the fast adoption of sustainable, circular technologies such as HeiQ AeoniQ™.

The HeiQ AeoniQ™ pilot plant in Austria is manufacturing this revolutionary continuous cellulosic filament yarn since Q3 2022, with up to a 100 tons capacity to be upscaled up to 300 tons by the end of 2023.

The HeiQ AeoniQ™ production scale-up is planned to have its definitive boost by early 2026 with the construction of an entirely new gigafactory capable of a 30,000-ton output per year, in a 250M USD estimated investment.

Polyester and nylon, two oil-based fibers, virtually non-recyclable, account for about 70% of all the global textile production, they take between 350 to 1000 years to degrade in nature, are currently close loop recycled at less than 1%, and are at the origin of 35% of the microplastics that can be found in today's oceans. HeiQ AeoniQ™ was innovated and is being hyper-scaled up to change this course of action.

Leaders assembled at the renowned forum for sustainability in fashion to mobilise action and usher in a transformative phase for the industry.

Hosted in the Copenhagen Concert Hall, on 27-28 June, Global Fashion Summit convened over 1000 revered representatives from brands, retailers, NGOs, policy, manufacturers, and innovators to transform ambition into action. The Summit was presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), the non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry, under the patronage of HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark.

This year’s theme ‘Ambition to Action’, galvanised participants to transform ambitions into concrete actions that can drive the industry towards more sustainable practices, both socially and environmentally. Under this premise, the event presented content experiences focused on tangible and evidence-based impact, with over half of the programme dedicated to educational and action-oriented business case studies.

This edition included more speakers and content than ever before, with the dynamic and action-orientated sessions spanning across four different stages. The Summit also facilitated more than 10 strategic roundtable meetings that brought together executives and policy makers for productive dialogues on how to address pressing sustainability issues and act accordingly. The content integrated the five priorities of the Fashion CEO Agenda, alongside critical challenges and tangible opportunities relating to some of the key forces that are shaping the fashion industry today: data, policy and storytelling.

Attendees heard from 137 speakers including HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark; Antoine Arnault, Image & Environment, LVMH Group; Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director & Founder, JW Anderson and Creative Director, Loewe; Virginijus Sinkevičius,  Commissioner for the Environment, Oceans and Fisheries, European Commission; Henriette Hallberg Thygesen, Chief Delivery Officer, Maersk; Aude Vergne, Chief Sustainability Officer, Chloé; Nicolaj Reffstrup, Founder, GANNI; Fanny Moizant, Co-Founder & President, Vestiaire Collective; Noel Kinder, Chief Sustainability Officer, Nike; Óscar García Maceiras, CEO, Inditex; Dr. Lewis Akenji, Managing Director, Hot or Cool Institute; Rachel Arthur, Advocacy Lead, Sustainable Fashion, United Nations Environment Programme; and many more.

Innovation Forum connected fashion companies with sustainable solution providers
This year’s Summit also presented an Innovation Forum, enabling small and large companies to meet with 26 sustainable solution providers – equipping them with the concrete tools to quickly turn words into meaningful actions. More than 350 facilitated business meetings between fashion companies and sustainable solution providers took place during the Summit.

Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition will take place on 27 September 2023, which will mark the second time the Summit has been hosted outside of Copenhagen in its 14-year history.

Just in time for ITMA 2023 in Milan, the flat knitting machine manufacturer STOLL has launched its new collection COLOR IN KNITTING. It holds a range of knitting techniques that were ideated for novel super fine machine gauges such as the E20.

In addition, STOLL reveals its internal design workflow, showcasing how digital software tools can speed up the design process. The core of this is k.innovation CREATE DESIGN. Through the utilization of STOLL’s jointly developed design software solution, k.innovation CREATE DESIGN, in collaboration with @KM.ON, the shape and structures of a garment, can be digitally created, allowing for its simulation before it is even knitted. The interfaces to various external 3D software tools, allow for a realistic representation of the garment facilitating faster design decisions. Once the virtual knits, made in the CREATE DESIGN software are ready for manufacturing, it will be send to a knitting technician for further processing in k.innovation CREATE PLUS, This significantly speeds up product development while reducing communication issues between designers and technicians.

Sustainability and responsible handling of precious natural resources were key factors driving the development of the latest trend collection, COLOR IN KNITTING. STOLL-knit and wear®, a technique that stands for seamless knitted garments, can play a significant role in reducing waste. In addition, fewer process steps are required in the production chain - with advantages for production efficiency.
For another highlight of COLOR IN KNITTING, the STOLL creatives have worked on imitating different yarn effects with knitting technology such as slub yarn optics or the simulation of fabrics like crepe de chine/crepe georgette

On the occasion of the 150th anniversary of STOLL, COLOR IN KNITTING features a selection of vintage pattern replicates. These patterns can be found in STOLL’s extensive sample archives in Reutlingen. It is impressive to learn that all these former fabric constructions can still be replicated today and also reinvented with todays machine features. This approach showcases the steep progression of technical advancements over the past 150 years.

STOLL´s latest trend collection culminates in the creation of an invaluable resource: the book “Color in Knitting: By Designers, for Designers”. This publication aims to cater to a diverse audience by presenting a comprehensive guide to designing with colors using various flat knitting technologies and will be presented in the chapter "Book release".

Nylon 6, nylon 6,6, polypropylene, PET and calcium carbonate are available through the company’s proprietary carpet recycling process

Circular Polymers by Ascend, a market-leading recycler of post-consumer carpet, today the launch of Cerene™, a line of recycled polymers and materials made from the company’s proprietary carpet reclaiming technology. Cerene is available as polyamide 6 and 66, PET, polypropylene and calcium carbonate as a consistent,
sustainable feedstock for many applications, including molding and compounding.
Recycling experts from Circular Polymers will be showcasing Cerene at Compounding World Expo on June 14-15 at the Messe Essen in Germany.

Ascend Performance Materials, a fully integrated producer of durable high-performance materials and the majority owner of Circular Polymers by Ascend, is known for its innovations in nylon 6,6. Cerene will continue that legacy with offerings in nylon 6,6 while also bringing to market recycled polymers such as nylon 6, PET and PP.

“Customers around the globe are seeking consistent and reliable post-consumer recycled materials,” said Maria Field, business director of Circular Polymers by Ascend. “Cerene is mechanically recycled using a process that minimizes our carbon footprint and environmental impact.”

Circular Polymers by Ascend converts post-consumer carpet into fiber and pellets. The company uses a proprietary process in its California-based facilities to achieve high efficiency in recycling, successfully providing a new life for virtually every component of the carpet and backing. The company has redirected 85 million pounds of carpet from landfills into new goods since 2018.

On June 1, EREMA hosted the EREMA Discovery Day focusing on the post consumer segment from a European perspective. Live demonstrations showcased the latest machine innovations for PET and polyolefin recycling.

The invitation was accepted by around 400 customers and partners, mainly from Europe, to find out about the wide range of recycling technologies for PO and PET plastic waste. The technology that was presented and explained by EREMA experts and guest speakers during lectures in the morning, could then be seen live in-action in the afternoon when the recycling machines were demonstrated in operation. A total of six innovative recycling technologies were on display: INTAREMA® TVEplus® DuaFil® Compact, INTAREMA® TVEplus® RegrindPro® + ReFresher, the COREMA® cascade extrusion system, a VACUREMA® Inline Sheet line equipped with new EcoGentle technology, the new INTAREMA® FibrePro:IV machine, and the PCU-
TwinScrew. These allowed visitors to witness their performance and the high quality of recycled pellets that they produce.

"This wide range of technologies is necessary because the recycling process each of our customers choose depends on the type of plastic, the level of contamination of the input material, and which product will be made using the recycled pellets. Following the expansion of our Ansfelden site and with the new site nearby in St. Marien, we can now demonstrate all these processes, carry out test runs with customers' material and focus on development work independently of our Customer Centre," says EREMA's Managing Director Markus Huber-Lindinger.

EREMA is driving forward research and development work in the company's new R&D Centre. Two halls with a total area of 1,550 square metres and a new office building offering space for 50 workplaces has been built. Here, the company bundles cross-departmental test machines and laboratory facilities for post consumer and inhouse recycling applications. R&D is decentralised at EREMA. Employees from different departments handle process engineering challenges, innovations in mechanical engineering and automation technology - all with the aim of meeting customer requirements and achieving the highest possible quality of recycled pellets.  

On the evening before Discovery Day, EREMA celebrated its 40th anniversary together with customers and partners. A review covered the company's history - from the first workshop in a garage in 1983, to its position today as a innovation pioneer and one of the market leaders.

Mimaki Europe, a provider of industrial inkjet printers, cutting plotters, and 3D printers, has announced the introduction of two technologies at ITMA 2023: a Textile Pigment Transfer Printing System and the Neo-Chromato Process. These innovations are showcased for the first time, and ahead of commercial availability, at the exhibition in Milan, Italy, solidifying Mimaki's commitment to sustainable and environmentally friendly solutions in the textile printing industry.

Mimaki’s New Textile Pigment Transfer Printing System
The transfer printing method is more sustainable than both analogue and digital textile dye printing methods with zero water consumption and substantially lower CO₂ emissions. The system comprises three essential elements: the Textile Pigment Ink, the Transfer System and the Textile Pigment Transfer paper, Texcol®.

Texcol® is a transfer paper pioneered by Dutch paper manufacturer, Coldenhove that allows for transferring a digital print using an environmentally friendly 3-step transfer process to create a vibrant application on a wide range of materials, including natural fibres. The design is initially printed onto the paper using a customised TS330-1600 - Mimaki’s high-volume, high-quality dye sublimation printer - and Mimaki’s new pigment inks developed for the process. The module that adapts the TS330-1600 will be available as an option for existing and new Mimaki customers in Q3 2023 but is being previewed on the Mimaki stand at ITMA.

Mimaki’s new Textile Pigment Ink is undergoing bluesign certification before commercial availability. bluesign is a renowned certification programme that ensures the highest levels of safety, environmental friendliness, and sustainability within the textile and apparel industry.

As the final stage, the Texcol® paper undergoes a one-step waterless process, through an entry-level calendar machine onto the textile of choice.

Cyclical textile technology
Mimaki is also debuting its new, unique Neo-Chromato Process, which revolutionises the reuse of coloured polyester textiles.

By decolourising polyester textiles that have been dyed using dye sublimation technologies, this innovative process allows materials to be re-printed or dyed immediately, contributing to a smaller circular economy. There is no limit to how many times reused polyester can be treated with the Neo-Chromato Process and the process itself minimises water usage and pollution by enabling the disposal of the absorbent paper and decolouring solvents used in the process as burnable waste.

HeiQ will display its biobased textile solutions for allergen reduction, odor control, and dynamic cooling at ITMA Milano 2023. The event will take place from the 8th to the 14th of June at Fiera Milano in Italy, where HeiQ will also showcase HeiQ AeoniQ™, its cellulosic fiber and flagship advancement in biobased textile technologies.

The focal point of the HeiQ exhibition at ITMA Milano 2023 will be the company’s biobased textile technologies. These innovations address one of the major challenges faced by the textile industry, making fabrics more functional while contributing to a sustainable future.

The ready-to-use HeiQ technologies on display are HeiQ Allergen* Tech, providing synbiotic protection in home textiles and unmatched defense against inanimate allergens, HeiQ Cool, the dual-action cooling that keeps one cool and comfortable, even in the most demanding conditions, HeiQ Mint, the botanical odor control that provides plant-based and effective odor management, and HeiQ Fresh, for sustainable odor control.

Additionally, HeiQ will present a glimpse into the future with HeiQ’s groundbreaking carbon-positive continuous filament yarn, HeiQ AeoniQ™, that turned from an idea into a breakthrough piece of garment in just 15 months.

This cellulosic fiber has the objective to render polyester and nylon obsolete until 2030 and has attracted the support and active engagement of global partners who saw HeiQ AeoniQ™ as the solution to change the future of the textile industry.

ERCA, Patagonia® and YKK announce the implementation of ERCA’s REVECOL®, a sustainable, innovative chemical agent, in YKK’s dyeing processes at their Vietnam production sites transforms common waste material, such as exhausted vegetable cooking oil, into an upcycled, certified high performance, safe textile chemical. ERCA has invested in circular practices to take waste material and use them as feedstocks to create new responsible chemical products.

Always searching for new sustainable innovations, REVECOL® caught the attention of Patagonia®. Driven by the goal to utilize non-extractive chemistry in their supply chain wherever possible, the brand teamed up with ERCA and trim supplier YKK to deploy REVECOL®.

REVECOL® LV-TS has a carbon footprint that is 72% lower* than the more conventional chemical auxiliaries produced by ERCA. Today ERCA produces a wide range of high-performance chemical auxiliaries made from used vegetable oil that are ZDHC, bluesign® approved and GRS certified.

ERCA is one of the first companies to have GRS certified chemical products, opening the door to circular chemical auxiliaries.

As part of their Sustainability Vision 2050, YKK is constantly working to deploy more sustainable chemical processes in their production. The ability to replace a commonly used dye chemical with a lower impact version was a no-brainer for YKK’s Vietnam management. REVECOL® is not only more sustainable, it is also more efficient, reducing the use of the dyeing auxiliary by 20% to 30%, thus  helping to lower YKK’s overall chemical usage.

* bluesign® Product Carbon Footprint Report