From the Sector

The new claim “Crafted Elegance” embodies Bemberg™’s values of preciousness, uniqueness, quality and refined aesthetic blended with innovation and responsible values. In 2021 Bemberg™ celebrates nine decades of commitment to deliver true timeless beauty, style and touch thanks to its responsible innovation heritage and soul. And today it relaunches a new gender aesthetics that speaks about contemporary values of transparency, inclusivity and sustainability.
 
Bemberg™ is all about joyful comfort, premium values delivering an unparalleled wellbeing. It’s the one-of-a-kind material that offers design, beauty, innovation and responsibility all at once.

Its heritage talks about premium high-quality lining for formal and sportswear, but the contemporary and worldwide journeys and designers’ cooperation are talking about fashion, outerwear, innerwear dedicated to contemporary consumers.
 
Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei is the brand name of the regenerated cellulose fiber made from the smart tech transformation of cotton linters - short downy fiber enfolding cotton seeds. It is pre-consumer materials obtained from manufacturing process of cotton oil that are converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, taking place in Nobeoka, Japan, the only plant producing Bemberg™ at worldwide level. So, the Bemberg™ DNA is really based on a circular economy approach.

Bemberg™ fiber is the key ingredient of some of the most cutting-edge design innovations on planet Fashion, proving to be a sustainable, responsible and innovative material.

The Bemberg™’s 90th anniversary signs also another important moment for the company. Mr. Koji Hamada is appointed as new CEO of Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia. Mr. Hamada has a strong connection to the Italian market having already spent more than 5 years in the Gallarate’s headquarter working in close contact with all partner of the territory.

Sateri’s Lyocell facility in Rizhao, Shandong Province, has been awarded the Sustainable Textile Production (STeP) certification for responsible production, making it the first Lyocell producer in China to be certified to the rigorous standards set by independent Swiss-based certification organisation OEKO-TEX®. Sateri’s Lyocell facility has also obtained the highest ranking of level three in the certification assessment scoring for exemplary implementation of best manufacturing practices.

Together with its earlier achievement of the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification that confirms its Lyocell fibre is free from any harmful substances and complies with European standards, Sateri’s lyocell products are qualified to carry the MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® product label. This label not only attests to Sateri’s Lyocell fibre as safe and manufactured in environmentally-friendly, socially responsible and safe facility, but also the Group’s commitment to higher levels of transparency and accountability through the product traceability feature of the label.

The STeP by OEKO-TEX® certification comprises three levels describing the extent to which a company has achieved sustainable production and working conditions of factories in the textile industry. The areas of assessment include chemicals management, environmental performance, environmental management, social responsibility, quality management, as well as occupational health and safety.

Sateri’s Lyocell fiber factory in Rizhao commenced operation in May 2020, with an annual output of 20,000 tonnes of Lyocell fiber. The same site houses a 5,000 tonne Lyocell pilot production line dedicated for the development of Lyocell application technology. In March 2021, the Group announced plans to expand its Lyocell annual production capacity in China up to 500,000 tonnes by 2025.

A natural and biodegradable fibre, Sateri’s Lyocell is made from wood pulp sourced from certified and sustainable plantations. It is manufactured using closed-loop technology, requiring minimal chemical input during the production process, and utilising an organic solvent that can be almost fully (99.7%) recovered and recycled.

Sateri’s Lyocell is used to produce high quality textiles and personal hygiene materials. Using a unique high technology manufacturing process, it has outstanding dry and wet strength, high uniformity and consistency, and superior quality. It blends well with various textile fibres to create different fabric styles and characteristics for wide downstream applications.

AMUT’s strategic partnership with EREMA contributes to accelerate the transition towards a greener world.  In summer 2021, EREMA in collaboration with AMUT  has finalized the installation and commissioning of ALTO packaging ́s first extrusion line for food grade PET sheets in New Zealand market. At the ALTO Plastic Packaging site, in Albany, the plant now processes 100 % washed post-
consumer flakes into 100 % food contact grade monolayer thermoforming sheet. In New Zealand, this milestone represents the first system to be installed for this special application.

The plastic packaging company ALTO, a division of PACT Group, invested for this new food grade PET sheet extrusion line as a part of Pact Group ́s vision to lead Circular Economy through Packaging in Australia and New Zealand.

Thanks to the direct combination of VACUREMA® PET recycling technology and the AMUT Inline Sheet production technology there is no longer any extra process stage. This is, because the melt goes straight from the VACUREMA® 1716 T Basic to the AMUT plant without the detour of pelletising. The post-consumer PET material is already decontaminated and pre-dried prior to extrusion in the vacuum reactor of the VACUREMA® Basic, with a throughput of up to 1,500 kg per hour. After high capacity filtration by EREMA SW-RTF backflush filter and online IV measurement, the melt goes directly into the AMUT Inline Sheet plant where it is processed into thermoforming sheet from 0.15 mm till 1.2 mm thickness. The monolayer thermoforming sheet produced from pure rPET is not only 100 % food contact compliant, it also fulfils the FDA and further regulations. At ALTO it is further processed into trays and food containers.

AMUT played its part by providing a full range of downstream equipment ranging from the Automatic Tdie, three rolls stack calender with automatic gap control and motorized cross axing unit, lamination unit for welding and barrier films, thickness control gauge to anti-static silicon coating unit, fully automatic two shafts turret winder and in line edge trims grinding and recycling.

The special features of this extrusion line come from the complete automatic and easy management of the line. This is due to the new Amut`s software including the Easy Start and Easy Change functions that will allow the operator to start the extrusion line and change product formats in automatic mode.

EREMA and AMUT are long-term partners in the Inline Sheet sector. EREMA ́s VACUREMA® technology is currently in use in more than 100 Inline Sheet facilities around the world, also for PACT Group companies in Australia. 

• Focus now on digital fair platform

The PERFORMANCE DAYS team regrets having to cancel at short notice the physical edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS which was scheduled to take place on December 1-2, 2021 at the Messe München exhibition center. Right up until today, the event organizers of PERFORMANCE DAYS were in the final stages of preparations for the fair. The goal of being able to realize a fully booked fair with a portfolio like in pre-pandemic times seemed to be within reach. The political regulations agreed in Bavaria from November 19, 2021 and the heavily restricted constraints associated with an incidence of 1000 have far-reaching consequences for PERFORMANCE DAYS. As a result of the current sharp rise in the number of infections in Munich, the planned winter edition must now be cancelled as a precaution. The focus now is now completely on the digital fair on December 1 and 2, 2021.

The new measures are scheduled to come into effect in Munich from the middle of this week, which would lead to very short-term changes. The organizers of PERFORMANCE DAYS therefore see themselves in the responsibility to enable a minimum of planning security as well as a responsible handling of the given situation with this decision.

“Exceptional situations require exceptional decisions – making these all the more difficult. After experiencing a very successful and surprisingly well-attended fair with the Functional Fabric Fair by PERFORMANCE DAYS in Portland, Oregon last week, we have tried everything possible up to the last moment and firmly believed that we would finally set a further positive milestone with the physical edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS in Munich. We fulfilled all the requirements, updated our hygiene concept several times to comply with the dynamically changing measures and took all the necessary precautions for a safe event. Unfortunately, current developments do not allow us to host the trade fair event next week, since the undisputed top priority is the protection and health of our visitors. Now our focus turns to the full implementation of the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021”, explains Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS

Focus on digital platform
The PERFORMANCE DAYS team is now investing all its efforts into implementing the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021. As part of THE LOOP, those interested have the opportunity as of now to view online the fabric innovations and news for the Winter Season 2023/24, this year’s Focus Topic “Sustainable Nylon” and the latest color trends. In the Marketplace, visitors will be able to view the numerous exhibitor products, including the PERFORMANCE FORUM’s curated sustainable fabric highlights. In order to present the fabrics to visitors as realistically as possible in terms of feel, design and structure in digital form, the PERFORMANCE FORUM has been equipped with new 3D-technology, including innovative tools such as 3D images, video animations and downloadable U3M files. Throughout the Digital Fair, exhibitors and fair visitors can look forward to extensive networking opportunities. For example, as part of the extensive digital supporting program on December 1, with various expert talks, discussion rounds and speakers via livestream, moderated by Charles Ross live from the studio. On December 2, the “sustain & innovate” conference on this year’s Focus Topic “The Sustainable Future of Nylon” will kick off with discussions and panels, moderated by Astrid Schlüchter, Editor-in-Chief of SAZsport and SPORTSFASHION by saz.  

A very special thank you goes out to the entire PERFORMANCE DAYS community with its exhibitors, visitors and partners for their active support, trust, loyalty and understanding in these still extraordinary times. The team looks forward to the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021 and further ahead to meeting you all personally on April 27 and 28, 2022 at the summer edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS live in Munich.

• GRAFE optimises properties of numerous high-performance and technical materials

Highly effective additive masterbatches with low dosage to improve the properties in engineering materials are recommended by GRAFE, Blankenhain, as an alternative instead of specially modified high-performance plastics. GRAFE has a wide range of additives for high-performance and technical materials, including PPA, PSU, PA6, PA6.6, PA GF, PET, PBT and POM.

"The use of our additive batch enables a more stable processing window of e.g. PPA, the melt flow is improved, the components cool down more evenly and easier mould filling is generated in injection moulding applications," explains Danny Ludwig, Head of Product Management Color & Functional Masterbatches.

According to him, a PPA material, for example, can be processed at lower temperatures and with reduced injection pressure on the injection moulding machine. "Overall, the friction forces are lower, which means that burns or damage to critical geometries can be avoided and more complex elements can be realised," says Ludwig. The surface quality of the components is also improved and demoulding is made easier. "Overall, a significant reduction in cycle time can be achieved," reports the expert.

• Sales increase 8.8% to €743.5 million compared to the same period of the previous year
• EBITDApre improves by 59.1% to €108.5 million
• Despite burdens from higher raw material and energy prices, stable revenue and earnings expected for Q4 2021

Following consolidated sales of €241.5 million in Q1 2021 and €255.2 million in Q2 2021, Q3 2021 confirms SGL Carbon's encouraging sales performance with €246.8 million. Due to increasing demand from almost all market segments, Group sales increased to a total of €743.5 million in the first nine months of the fiscal year (9M 2020: €683.5 million). This corresponds to an increase of 8.8% compared to the same period of the previous year.

Almost all business units contributed to the positive sales development. As largest business unit with a 44.7% share of Group sales, Graphite Solutions (GS) contributed €332.7 million to Group sales in the first nine months of 2021 (9M 2020: €308.0 million). The sales increase of 8.0% is based in particular on the positive development of the important market segments Semiconductor & LED as well as Automotive & Transportation. The business units Carbon Fibers and Composite Solutions contributed €244.7 million (9M 2020: €223.4 million) and €92.1 million (9M 2020: €60.7 million), respectively, to Group sales and benefited primarily from increased demand from the automotive industry. Compared to the previous year, sales increased by 9.5% in Carbon Fibers and by 51.7% in Composite Solutions. Only the Process Technology business unit, with sales down 4.9% to €62.1 million, was not yet able to participate in the general economic upward trend.

See the attached document for more infomation.

For its 2021 Green Collection, the Italian luxury hosiery brand Sarah Borghi presents a broadened product offer in terms of colors and categories, meeting the needs of a stylish, yet sustainable consumer. By mixing fashion, quality, innovation and research, the tights and stockings powerhouse continues its development in the journey towards a conscious future.

The evolution of the Green Collection, the sustainable hosiery collection first launched in 2020, confirms the efforts of the brand in promoting a new generation of attractive fashion and design which actively encourages and supports a responsible change in culture and smart products offer.

Lately, a decisive step has been added to the brand’s history thanks to the publication of the Integrated Report by Gizeta Calze, Sarah Borghi’s top-notch producer and first Italian company in the hosiery sector to include sustainability throughout its business model. A commitment of responsibility and transparency on a path that has been carried on for years and that, today more than ever, becomes of the utmost importance, as stated by Luca Marzocchi, CEO of Gizeta Calze. The Integrated Report provides a complete view of the business strategy, operating model and governance, which combines financial information with sustainability insights, conceived as complementary to other strategies and, indeed, essential for increasing business value.

The collection
The collection presents a range of versatile, colorful products combined with extra-luxury comfort and designed for every type of woman: from seductive tights to everyday socks, together with knee- highs, up to athleisure with leggings.
 
The responsible collection features two new generation materials. One is Amni Soul Eco®, the world’s first biodegradable in anaerobic conditions polyamide 6.6 yarn that degrades in around 5 years* after disposing of in landfill, developed by SOLVAY and produced and distributed by FULGAR. The other is ROICA™ V550 by leading fiber manufacturer Asahi Kasei, a premium sustainable stretch yarn boasting the Gold Level Material Health Certificate by Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute** as it has been evaluated for impact on human and environmental health. Moreover, it smartly breaks down without releasing harmful substances in the environment according to Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certification. Key elements that makes ROICA™ V550 a precious choice when it comes to Circular Economy material approach.

Reifenhäuser Reicofil will exhibit at the world's leading nonwovens trade show INDEX in Geneva from October 19 to 22, 2021. Under the slogan "Living Nonwovens", the nonwoven line specialist will showcase solutions for the production of sustainable nonwovens for a wide range of applications.

Sustainable nonwoven production starts with the amount of material used - the less raw material needed, the better. The "Reicofil 5x" line series is specialized in this application and achieves fabric weights of 8 gsm (grams per square meter) or even less through efficient downgauging, even on 1000 m/min Composite lines containing 3 Spunbond beams.

In addition, Reicofil customers can reduce the use of fossil raw materials on request by processing biobased raw materials as an ecological alternative - for example for diapers. The topsheet material, made of bulky, soft, and industrially compostable high-loft nonwovens, meets maximum hygiene requirements at the same time.

For industrial applications, high-strength nonwovens can be processed even from up to 90% PET flakes from post-consumer waste. This is how Reicofil shows ways to combine sustainability and high-performance nonwovens.

In the medical sector, the line manufacturer will also be exhibiting its leading solutions for high-barrier medical protective clothing. In addition, meltblown nonwovens for face masks - still in great demand in many regions due to Covid - provide reliable safety and are helping to combat the pandemic worldwide. Reicofil technology therefore guarantees maximum safety, with filtration efficiencies of up to 99% (N99 / FFP3 standard), minimum quality fluctuations, and extremely high line availability at the same time.

With the current RF5 machine generation, Reicofil also sets benchmarks in terms of quality, performance, availability, efficiency, and machine intelligence - for challenging applications in hygiene, medical, and industrial sectors.

European Textiles and Clothing (T&C) industry coming out of the Covid19-crisis, but facing new challenges ahead. This recovery may however be disrupted by the current supply chain and energy problems. Latest economic data on the European T&C industry confirm further recovery from the corona pandemic. The textile activity has now surpassed its pre-pandemic level from Q4 2019 (+3.6%); the clothing sector still remains 11.5% below, but continues to improve.

In quarter-on-quarter terms, the EU turnover showed signs of improvements across the sector. The textile turnover increased by +3.3% in Q2 2021, after slightly contracting in Q1 2021. Similarly, the business activity in the clothing sector expanded by +7% in Q2 2021, after increasing by +1% in the previous quarter.
 
In the 2nd quarter 2021, the EU-27 trade balance for T&C improved, resulting mostly from an increase of export sales across third markets and a drop of textile imports. T&C Extra-EU exports boomed by +49% as compared with the same quarter of the previous year. T&C Extra-EU imports went down by -26% as compared with the same quarter of the previous year, following a decrease of imports from some main supplier countries. EU imports from China and the UK collapsed due to a combination of Brexit and weaker demand in Europe.
 
During the second quarter of 2021, job creation was slowly stabilising in the textile industry (-0.2% q-o-q), while employment in the clothing sector continued to be affected by lower levels of production activity in industry during the first part of the year (-1.2%). When compared to its pre-pandemic level in Q4 2019, EU employment in Q2 2021 was still 4.4% down in textiles and 11.8% down in clothing.

However, this fragile recovery is hampered by higher shipping costs and prices’ increase in raw materials and energy. The cost of energy, in particular gas, has increased more than 3 times since the beginning of this year. Since the announcement of the EU’s “Fit for 55” package, we have seen CO2 prices rising above €60. This inevitably has an impact on the industry’s competitiveness, especially in a global context. The future recovery is also threatened by some factors limiting production, such as shortage of labour force and equipment, which are putting additional pressure on T&C industries.

Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented on these latest figures: “Our companies have shown great resilience during the pandemic, and their latest export performance is an encouraging sign of recovery. This recovery may however be disrupted by the current supply chain and energy problems. Once again, recent developments show that this transition towards more sustainable production can only work if organised in a global context, avoiding carbon leakage and with an effective level playing field. This must be considered in the upcoming EU Textiles Strategy.”

Archroma celebrates 8 years of leading the way to a sustainable world, with innovations and solutions aimed at creating added value sustainable for its partners, consumers and the planet.

Archroma came to life on 1st October 2013 from textile, paper and emulsions businesses acquired from Clariant by SK Capital Partners.
Building on decades of commitment to developing safer eco-friendlier chemistry, Archroma has become in the past 8 years a prominent name for more sustainable colors and performance, collaborating with leading brands such as Primark, G-Star, Patagonia, Esprit and more.

Archroma has introduced innovations, such as the EarthColors® made from non-edible plant waste from the food and herbal industry, Denisol® Pure, an indigo for aniline-free* denim, aniline being a category 2 carcinogen substance, and Smartrepel®, a PFC-free* water repellent solution. The company is also about to launch a new plant-based softener.

The company started to develop holistic solutions designed to bring innovation and performance, whilst reducing the impacts on water, energy and other natural resources. The savings generated by these 70+ system solutions are demonstrated by Archroma's proprietary ONE WAY Impact Calculator, a tool launched in 2012 and continuously upgraded to simulate and optimize the footprint of application processes.

Archroma also recently launched CASUAL X SMART, a sulfur dyeing system for trendy wash-down effects to make clothes that look smart at home and at work. The colors won't fade in the washing cycle, and the application process allows resource savings of up to 33% water, 21% energy and 35% chemical usage compared to a benchmark reactive & pigment garment dyeing.

With ONE WAY, a brand can calculate how much impact their current production and the Archroma Way collection will have on water, energy, chemical, raw material or CO2 footprint.