From the Sector

“The soul of sustainable fashion is an alchemy, a combined commitment and an act of responsibility”. This is the motto ‘embossed’ in the collections and the values of Italian Converter. At Futurmoda, the leading manufacturer celebrates its 25th anniversary and presents E.C.O. KOSMOS, a cross-collection, a brand-new ‘green line’ range’ and a winning formula shining a light on the company’s responsible path and unique ‘blend’ for the fashion of tomorrow. The acronym E.C.O. stands for Ecologic, Conversion, Optimisation; three unique concepts and values that truly embody Italian Converter DNA: sustainability, transformative process and quality improvement.

For over 25 years, Italian Converter creates high-quality materials for some of the leading fashion and accessories brands. “Made in Italy and sustainability are part of our DNA.” Says Costantino Karazissis, founder of Italian Converter. “We believe that responsible sourcing and processes as well as a deep research into new technology pathways and a market-savvy taste for material design must be the starting point.”

On-demand production a focal point of Industry 4.0 demonstrations at CISMA, Asia’s major garment and textile technology exhibition
Lectra unveiled its flagship Industry 4.0 solutions for Asia—Fashion On Demand by Lectra and Furniture On Demand by Lectra—as well as the new VectorAutomotive iP9 fabric-cutting solution for automotive seating and interiors this week, at the 2019 edition of the China International Sewing Machinery and Accessories (CISMA) exhibition in Shanghai.

Under the banner “Lectra 4.0: Digitalizing and Connecting Your Value Chain”, Lectra asserted its leadership as the trusted advisor to fashion, furniture and automotive companies undertaking digital transformation. Smart, connected supply chains are at the core of the fourth industrial revolution. In all industries using textiles, the intelligent factory requires a high degree of flexibility, maximum efficiency and optimal planning processes for a variety of production types, from mass production to on-demand production. These requirements are paramount to the future success of companies competing for business on Asian markets.

Artisan craft, experience and high eco-technological specialization: the great tradition of fabrics for shirts which styles the future.

Search for quality, the ability to interpret elegance and a product inspired by tradition, though always trendy: these are the distinctive traits which define the vocation of Canclini 1925, a point of reference worldwide for shirt fabric manufacturing. This expertise is implemented through dynamic creativity and 100% Made in Italy artisan  craft. These are the foundations which make the history and capability of Canclini 1925 unique, as standard bearer for everlasting style.

All this results from an authentic family tradition which, for three generations, has been the driving force of the company, shaping each collection. This passion is at the service of tireless search in terms of style and technology which underlies the whole Canclini 1925 innovative approach. The goal is to offer, through its fabrics, an inimitable experience, “creating wellbeing” and emotion through touch alone, respecting the environment and humans.

Founded in 1925, Canclini has always been a company able to combine extraordinary creativity and product care, established as a silk factory in the Como region. This tradition was renewed in the 1960s with the shift to the cotton sector, aiming more and more at customer service, developing a partnership and trust relation. Working with Canclini 1925 means reaching into the tradition of a family which has always been passionate about its work, dynamic, creative and focused on continuous innovation.

These are distinctive and qualifying elements in the Canclini 1925 approach. An approach which, in line with the research and development pathway on which the company has always invested substantial resources, also involves considerable attention the topic of environmental and social accountability. This commitment is confirmed by numerous and prestigious certifications in the company portfolio, starting from the careful selection of raw materials to its social commitment. More specifically, Canclini 1925 has been awarded the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), SUPIMA COTTON (the Pima “Gossypium Barbadense” cotton, classified as Extra-long Staple) certifications, following the Standard 100 by OECO-TEX®, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and GRS (Global Recycle Standard). A comprehensive range of tools which, combined with its in-house know-how and expertise capital, enhances the portfolio of Canclini 1925 branded innovations.

This accountability approach also encompasses the social area with the association “Un sorriso in più” (“One extra smile”). Founded and managed by the company, it is a non-profit organisation engaged in projects which include assistance in nursing homes to elderly persons without family ties, as well as in the support to children living difficult and disadvantaged family situations, focusing its activity on “human life quality”. The uniqueness generated by this meeting between tradition and innovation is the driving force behind corporate research, as well as the truly distinctive reason for its style and technology development. The high-performance looms and technologies used make the company strong and flexible enough for contemporary market requirements. The trademark passion of the Canclini family completes the picture within which the company operates, true to an approach which is at the same time artisan and high-tech, a point of reference in Italy and worldwide.

Thanks to its substantial manufacturing capacity, Canclini today is present on all of the most influential shirt markets worldwide, and – with its new Blue 1925 line - also in the denim world. In this way the company has succeeded in positioning itself among major players in textile manufacturing, authentically Italian because of its farsighted  business vision, care for details and production flexibility. It is the approach which – over the years - has allowed the group to take over important enterprises in the sector, for example Hausmann-Moos and Profilo Tessile, Maglificio Mida and Grandi & Rubinelli.
According to Simone Canclini, CEO of Canclini 1925: “What characterises the Canclini 1925 spirit is first and foremost genuine passion driven by our inspiring principles: quality, style and service. These elements have allowed us to become and remain a point of reference worldwide, to rediscover the everyday – basic and exciting – emotion of choosing a special shirt”.

• Customer Story
• Technology takes uniform making to the next level
• To meet new challenges in the professional garment market and preserve over a century of savoir-faire, Balsan chose Lectra to modernize its production tools.

The challenge

A Groupe Marck company, Balsan designs and manufactures corporate and ceremonial clothing, tailored and customized uniforms, and personal protective equipment and clothing for the public and private sector which comply with international standards. The biggest challenge is to meet the new expectations of customers who seek increasing levels of customization with ever-shorter time-to-market deadlines.
The professional garment sector is subject to the same pressures as prêt-à-porter, and Balsan’s challenge was to produce customized clothing more quickly using intelligent manufacturing methods.

Results

Balsan was a pilot partner for the Fashion On Demand by Lectra solution. This alliance allowed Groupe Marck to take a new approach, involving not only the use of Fashion On Demand by Lectra’s connected cutter, but upstream software solutions as well, which are configured based on the company’s needs to best match its work methods while updating and accelerating the production process. “Using a measurement chart, Fashion On Demand by Lectra allowed us to generate well-adapted and customized patterns with which to produce our garments. The solution also provides extensive flexibility: we can send the model to the cutter, select the cutting orders and  even group them by fabric, and detect defects and launch re-cuts when necessary. This improves overall performance and delivers estimated productivity gains of 7%”. Stéphane Quiniou, Industrial and Quality Director, Groupe Marck

Lectra's response

Balsan was a pilot partner for the Fashion On Demand by Lectra solution. This alliance allowed Groupe Marck to take a new approach, involving not only the use of Fashion On Demand by Lectra’s connected cutter, but upstream software solutions as well, which are configured based on the company’s needs to best match its work methods while updating and accelerating the production process.

• Transaction completed in Ingolstadt
• Extraordinary profit contribution after tax of EUR 60 million expected
• Board of Directors approves submission of building application for Rieter CAMPUS in Winterthur
• Project volume of around CHF 80 million expected

Rieter completed the real estate sale in Ingolstadt (Germany) to GERCHGROUP AG of Düsseldorf (Germany) on September 13, 2019. As reported in December last year, Rieter expects an extraordinary profit contribution after tax of around EUR 60 million from this transaction.

The employees in Ingolstadt will move into a new building in the second half of 2021. Rieter will thus create a modern working environment for innovative research and development work and the respective support functions.

On September 13, 2019, the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding Ltd. has made the decisions required for the building application regarding the Rieter CAMPUS project to be submitted in good time. The Rieter CAMPUS in Winterthur will consolidate customer center, product and technology development and administration. Rieter expects to implement the project with a project volume of around CHF 80 million. Archaeological excavations and the demolition of the building “Werkhalle 40” are currently underway.

The Rieter CAMPUS will make an important contribution to the implementation of the innovation strategy and thus to the successful further development of the company. Approval of the building application is expected in spring of 2020.

At CAMX Expo, Chomarat is showcasing its range of carbon reinforcements, including live demos: a rocket fairing mold, a kayak paddle and a flat panel will be on display in the demonstration area of Composites One, a partner of Chomarat. The Chomarat carbon range is also available in the USA through Composites One’s distribution network.

DEMONSTRATING THE UNIQUE PROPERTIES OF CHOMARAT’S REINFORCEMENTS
For the rocket fairing mold, the kayak paddle and the flat panel applications, Chomarat’s C-WeaveTM carbon reinforcement offers a unique and excellent visual appearance and structural performance at the same time. “In addition to C-WeaveTM, the kayak paddle comprises another reinforcement: G-flowTM, the 2-in-1 reinforcement for infusion to strengthen the vacuum-flow,” explains Travis Irvin, Sales Manager and Closed Mould Process Expert at Chomarat.

Other live demos of skateboards will demonstrate the potential for high-volume production with RovicoreTM, the famous glass sandwich reinforcement created by Chomarat. ”RovicoreTM is always at the forefront of technology for LRTM process,” he adds.

Moreover, Chomarat is displaying a motorcycle helmet with exposed carbon and a very light kayak paddle, highlighting the properties of C-WeaveTM. A tennis racket using C-PLYTM will also be displayed at the show.

• Performance assurance program for textiles with advanced moisture management technology

Huntsman Textile Effects has extended its HIGH IQ® performance assurance program to help mills, brands and retailers meet consumer demand for garments with durable moisture management. HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance program is built on the industry’s broadest and most advanced moisture management agents to deliver durable, long-lasting performance.
As consumers around the world adopt more active lifestyles and outdoor activities, the need for cool, dry and comfortable sports and athleisure wear is on an upward trend.
HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance program allows garments to breathe, while at the same time, transports moisture away from the body. This ensures consumers can stay cool, dry and fresh throughout. The unique technology supports accelerated evaporation, ensuring garments dry quickly for long-lasting comfort.

“Today’s consumer seeks comfort and performance in their active lifestyle. With Huntsman’s HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance assurance program, we offer durable moisture management so your garment remains breathable, stays cool and attains the comfort of cotton. Unique quick-dry properties created by the natural microclimate of the garment help to reduce post-exercise chill, making the effects highly suitable for sports and active wear,” said Lee Howarth, Global Marketing Manager, Huntsman Textile Effects.
Only mills that meet Huntsman’s stringent requirements earn the right to use the HIGH IQ® performance assurance hang tags as point-of-sale product branding. Updated hangtags and promotional materials are available to support mills and brands in communicating the benefits of the HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance assurance program.

The technology that drives the HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort program complies with the requirements of bluesign® for safe and sustainable textile production. Furthermore, fabrics produced with HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort moisture management are suitable for STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified textile products. The global leader in intelligent effects, Huntsman Textile Effects developed the HIGH IQ® global performance assurance program to help mills, brands and retailers produce high-performance textiles with built-in sun protection, freshness, friction protection and water repellence, in bright whites and color that lasts. The program is based on innovative dyes and effects and unparalleled technical support and application know-how from Huntsman Textile Effects to help mills improve their productivity and competitiveness.
 

Production units with latest joining technologies for the filtration industry

The core competence of PFAFF Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH is the joining of flexible materials. The company not only masters industrial sewing applications, but has also been an innovation leader in textile welding applications for decades. Depending on the material and customer requirements, customer solutions are implemented using the ULTRASONIC, HOT-AIR or HOT WEDGE welding methods. In addition to the classical industries such as 'clothing, shoes, home and car upholstery', the company has made a name for itself as a specialist supplier of production solutions for the filter industry. Whether it be filters for dry filtration (dust removal, air conditioning and ventilation technology) or for liquid filtration, such as pleating filters, tube filters, stocking filters, pocket filters, bag filters, etc., the articles must first be assembled. In close dialogue with the customer, PFAFF defines the right joining technology and implements this in the machine or production line.

With the brands PFAFF INDUSTRIAL and KSL, the company has the necessary experience in process engineering, electrical engineering, automation technology and robotics to meet customer requirements for reliable, partly fully automatic solutions. A fully automatic production line for the manufacture of filter bags (with longitudinal seams) for an Asian customer is currently being manufactured in Kaiserslautern/Germany. At the heart of the system are the exchangeable hot-wedge welding and 3-thread chainstitch sewing units. Depending on the application, these can be implemented in the manufacturing process in just a few minutes. The raw material is unrolled, precisely formed and quickly and reliably fed to the sewing or welding unit. After joining, the 'tubes' are cut (filter length selectable via display) and automatically ejected. Optionally, the parts can be labelled using a printer. Depending on the material, the plant reaches a production speed of 10m/min.

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC), part of Barry-Wehmiller, will be showcasing its Meridian laser anilox cleaner at Labelexpo Europe (booth 11C36), held 24 to 27 Sept., 2019, in Brussels. This is the first time the Meridian will be showcased with live demonstrations at this show.

Attendees may visit the PCMC booth anytime to watch as the Meridian quickly deep-cleans anilox cells by using a laser to remove deposited particles inside of the cells. This cleaning technology extends the life of anilox rolls and does not require any chemicals, sodium bicarbonate, polymer beads, water or detergents—making it a sustainable cleaning technology with a very low environmental impact. PCMC’s newest Meridian models are designed for the narrow web market and include a new internal traversing vacuum system.

“We’re very excited to welcome people into our booth to view the new innovations on our Meridian firsthand,” said Rodney Pennings, PCMC’s Printing, Coating and Laminating Sales Director. “I think they’ll be impressed by its technology, speed and effectiveness.”

At Munich Fabric Start, TINTEX introduces a new holistic approach to creating textiles that is built on the company’s DNA since 1998 for market leading, natural based, smart and responsible innovation

TINTEX is a unique fabric expert in materials and processes, and is introducing new levels of service to the market. First with the new Colorau® Natural Dye commercial innovation, and secondly with the TINTEX E-Commerce service that connects creativity with easy, direct-to-designer product sourcing.

The third innovation expands the company vision and influence into garment production with the SMART WARDROBE CO.LAB, a new supply chain cooperation working with three leading Portuguese makers.

But first you come and enjoy the unique touch and feel of the latest TINTEX Naturally Advanced fabrics with on-trend innovations enhanced by the new non-salt Colorau® Natural Dye process. This award-winning coloration technology fuses science, and creative innovation as a responsible evolution of better products that can now supply batches over 20kg.

The new A/W 20/21 collection starts from the concept of “WEME”: a Naturally Advanced offer that represents a multifaceted world. WE and ME refers to more than just the individual, but also about community and a collective spirit that seeks to grow the intellectual and spiritual individual needs in a responsive and collective way. It is a nuanced platform to discover a range of unique developments that embody the TINTEX identity through responsible innovation and creativity. Smart ingredients and processes drive innovation enhanced by the TINTEX unique dyeing and finishing expertise.