From the Sector

Trützschler’s next-generation carding machine entered the market in January 2024. The machines have achieved great results during tests with customers in Türkiye and in other countries. It achieved up to 40 % higher productivity while reducing energy consumption by up to -18 %.

Higher productivity, less energy consumption
Mayfil Tekstil is a leading company in the Turkish textile industry for the production of textured yarn. It is headquartered in Nilüfer/Bursa. Founded in 2005, it has grown rapidly by prioritizing customer satisfaction. In 2022, Mayfil invested in a modern vortex airjet spinning facility that can produce up to 35 tons per day. And the company was keen to take a close look at the TC 30i for man-made fibers to explore its potential to drive progress toward Mayfil’s ambitious growth plans. In February 2024, Mayfil Tekstil conducted tests with the TC 30i. The next-generation carding machine produced 140 kg/h viscose, which is more than 40 % higher than the 95 kg/h Mayfil produces with the current benchmark. The new carding machine also decreased electricity consumption by 18 %. Based on these results, Mayfil is purchasing further TC 30i cards.

Results confirmed
Göl Iplik Şeremet Tekstil Sanayi ve Ticaret A.S., located in Inegöl Bursa, operates three factories that deliver a variety of high-quality products, with a specialization in blended yarns. Investment in modern equipment and pioneering new products that expand its portfolio are at the heart of Göl Iplik’s success across almost four decades. Göl Iplik also tested the TC 30i for man-made fibers in early 2024. This Trützschler customer took a close look at the TC 30i during rigorous viscose trials. The TC 30i achieved a 40 % higher productivity rate with the same level of quality, while consuming 15 % less power. Göl Iplik now intends to include the TC 30i in its future investment strategy.

Benefits of the TC 30i

1. Best quality from any raw material: High levels of productivity and yarn quality thanks to 35 % more active flats, the longest carding length in market and the T-GO automatic carding gap optimizer.
2. Operator-independent performance: Consistent results without relying on manual operators thanks to automatic, real-time optimization of the carding gap with T-GO.
3. Value-adding waste handling: Innovative waste suction system collects and separates different types of waste. More than 50 % of card waste can be reused or sold to third parties for an attractive price.

With the MAX GLASS ECO, the KARL MAYER Technical Textiles Business Unit offers a production machine for the economical manufacture of standard reinforcement textiles made from glass fibers, in particular non-crimp fabrics for the wind power industry. The newcomer can be adapted to the requirements of different application areas thanks to various optional functions and combines short amortization times. At a maximum speed of 1,800 min-1, it produces up to 410 m/h at a working width of 101". This performance is very well received on the composite market. Since the launch of the MAX GLASS ECO at JEC World in March this year, several purchase agreements have already been signed.

Some machines are going to India, and a larger number has been ordered by Chinese customers. Even the demonstration models in the KARL MAYER GROUP customer centers in Changzhou and Chemnitz have already been sold. However, the MAX GLASS ECO at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien in Saxony can still be used for processing trials and performance tests until September.

There is also great interest in Eastern Europe. At Techtextil 2024 in Frankfurt, for example, the new composite machine was a topic of numerous meetings with Ralf Schramm, Sales Manager at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien for this region. "I held many orientation discussions about the machine's performance. But there were also customers with specific purchase requests, including the Polish manufacturer of high-quality, professional solutions for the composites industry, Rymatex," says the sales professional.

In the second quarter of 2024, the order index for Italian textile machinery, as reported by the Economics Department of ACIMIT – the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a decline compared to the period 2023 April-June (-17%). In value terms, the index stood at 49.8 points (base 2021=100).

This result is completely due to the decrease recorded in foreign markets (-22%), where orders represent 86% of the total. Conversely, in Italy, there was a 25% recovery compared to the second quarter of 2023. The absolute value of the index in foreign markets was 48.8 points, while in Italy it was 57.3 points. In the second quarter, the order backlog reached 4.3 months of assured production. Additionally, ACIMIT’s survey shows that in the first six months of 2024 the utilization rate of production capacity by Italian manufacturers was 61%. This percentage is expected to rise to 64% in the second half of the year.

Marco Salvadè, president of ACIMIT, stated: “The order index for the second quarter shows a clear slowdown abroad compared to last year. This decline highlights the high uncertainty due to the difficult geopolitical situation“. The confirmation of what is indicated by the ACIMIT index also comes from Italian export figures, updated to the first quarter of 2024. Excluding China and Egypt, the main foreign markets show a general decline in demand for textile machinery, not just Italian one.

Archroma is collaborating with Zydat Inc. to bring the complete Color Atlas by Archroma® color library to the Vivid Color Library Management (CLM) color-matching platform for faster and more accurate inkjet digital printing of fashion and textiles

Archroma’s Color Atlas is the textile industry’s largest library of engineered color standards, with more than 5,760 color references formulated to comply with leading eco-standards and deliver consistent and accurate color reproduction.

With these colors available within Vivid CLM’s online color palette optimization and correction tools, designers can more quickly and easily create and share their color palettes for more accurate inkjet printing. This can reduce the burden of pre-production color proofing and streamline the color management process to help deliver high-quality printed fabric and apparel in a fast and economical way.

Vivid CLM was launched by Zydat in February 2024. It offers a unique and designer-oriented solution to color matching with a proprietary algorithm that translates complex spectral data into a Red-Green-Blue workflow and allows the user to print, scan and check the color, with automatic adjustments to improve accuracy. The solution’s palette storage system allows colorists to share palettes across the ecosystem.

In addition to accessing all of the 5,760 colors in the Archroma Color Atlas portfolio as digital standards within Vivid CLM, users of the software may also choose to refer to Archroma’s physical color library in multiple formats. They can also tap into Archroma’s expertise around the world for technical support with sustainable coloration systems and achievability on alternate substrates.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® is part of the Archroma Color Management+ design and development solution for more sustainable textiles and fashion through fast color selection and creation, consistent and accurate color reproduction, and reduced environmental impact.

adidas announced preliminary results for the second quarter of 2024. In Q2, currency-neutral revenues increased 11% versus the prior year. In euro terms, the company’s revenues grew 9% to € 5.822 billion (2023: € 5.343 billion). Excluding Yeezy sales in both years, currency-neutral revenues increased 16% during the quarter.

The company’s gross margin reached 50.8% in Q2 (2023: 50.9%). The underlying adidas gross margin improved strongly, reflecting better sell-throughs, reduced discounting, lower sourcing costs and a more favorable category mix. The significantly smaller Yeezy business had a negative impact on the year-over-year comparison. The company’s second quarter operating profit increased to € 346 million (2023: € 176 million), including a contribution of around € 50 million from the sale of parts of the remaining Yeezy inventory.

Following the better-than-expected performance during the quarter and considering the current momentum, the company has increased its full-year guidance. adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues to increase at a high-single-digit rate in 2024 (previously: increase at a mid- to high-single-digit rate). The company’s operating profit is now expected to reach a level of around € 1.0 billion (previously: to reach a level of around € 700 million).

Within its guidance, the company assumes the sale of the remaining Yeezy inventory during the remainder of the year to occur on average at cost. This would result in additional sales of around € 150 million and no further profit contribution during the remainder of the year.

The company continues to expect unfavorable currency effects to weigh significantly on the company’s profitability this year. These effects are negatively impacting both reported revenues and the gross margin development in 2024. This was particularly the case during the first half of the year.

KARL MAYER launches its RE 4-1, a new Raschel machine for the efficient production of highly elastic textiles. With this newcomer, KARL MAYER is expanding its Elastomeric series and supplementing the established RE 4-1 as part of its two-product line strategy. With the price-performance ratio, the machine fulfils the requirements of the volume business in particular.

A 170″ version of the machine has already been on sale in China for several months. The pre-release got off to a successful start. Encouraged by the feedback from the market, KARL MAYER has developed an RE 4-1 with a working width of 190″ and will be offering both models to its global customers from middle of July 2024.

The RE 4-1 can be ordered with E 28 and E 32 gauges. The 170" version is also available with E 36. The standard equipment includes KAMCOS® 2, batching device 18 E, Carbon fibre technology and N-pattern drive for controlling the guide bars: stitch-forming GB 1 to GB 3 and inlayGB 4. There are also optional features, including sensors for measuring the yarn tension, laser stop, batching device 34 A, LED lighting and an installation kit.

With its technical configuration, the RE4-1 is optimised for the production of elastic and non-elastic standard fabrics, especially for the underwear sector. One of the top products of the Raschel machine with its high productivity and short amortisation time is elastic Power net. This open-meshed, airy fabric has become an indispensable part of the lingerie and clothing sector. It is often used in the wings of bras as well as for inserts in sports leggings, shirts, jackets and swimwear, where it provides delicate control and comfort. Power net can also be found in semi-technical applications, for example as outer and inner pockets for rucksacks and clothing.
In addition to Power net, Raschel Locknit, Sleek net and Satin net are also part of the production repertoire of RE 4-1. The fabrics with a decreasing density from Raschel Locknit to Satin net also play a role in underwear and clothing production. For their production, filament yarn is threaded in the front two guide bars and elastane in the back ones.

Today more than ever, sustainability in the fashion sector is an imperative that is reshaping the dynamics of the sector. These are important changes driven both by increasing CSR regulations (for example, Business of Fashion revealed that, according to 87% of players, the new regulations will impact their company in 2024), and by consumers’ habits (increasingly sensitive to the topic and consequently more careful in purchasing choices). In this scenario, Lectra analyzed real-time data from Retviews – its artificial intelligence-based solution specialized in competitive intelligence and automatic benchmarking – and unveils how Retviews’ empowers brands to navigate the complexities of sustainable and optimized collection planning.

According to Retviews data, to face sustainability challenges and best orient in the current complex fashion landscape, it will be crucial for brands to keep 5 key indications in mind:

1. Planning sustainable collections
Faced with the new regulations, brands are called to rethink their strategies, without losing sight on performance. For this reason, brands are already moving to optimize and rationalize the creative processes of their collections with a view to sustainability. In particular, Retviews' real-time data analysis reveals a growing trend towards sustainability in the collections of leading brands, where there are important investments in sustainable fabrics for both upper and lower garments. In particular, in the "Top" section, shirts show the most significant growth year over year among the eco-responsible options.

2. Sustainable prices (in every sense)
In this context, the redefinition of prices requires a strategic balance between market dynamics and the consumer's willingness to pay for products redesigned in terms of CSR. Retviews data shows a significant increase in costs in sustainable top collections. However, has this shift affected stock levels?

3. Inventories: optimized management
Tracking stock levels is crucial to season management, as it helps identify best-selling items and trends, as well as identify which items would sell better at full price versus those that should be discounted.
The new premium prices for sustainable collections require optimization of the sales rate, a waste limitation to minimum and a reduction of unsold goods rate.
Analyzing the tops category - In the tops category, where sustainably made products prevail with significantly higher price points than generic tops, Retviews' real-time data reveals that sustainable collections boast a higher sell-out rate compared to non-sustainable products. This superior sell-out rate underscores consumers' willingness to pay a premium for sustainability

4. Traceability and certification of collections
Certification is essential in verifying sustainability claims, fosters trust and ensures compliance. Not only that, it is also important to understand the value of the certifications and which ones appear most frequently in the various markets so as to make targeted decisions and adapt the assortments accordingly. This also let brands to prioritize the right mix of fabrics that can reflect the desires of local consumers. Retviews data highlights a particular focus on “Recycled Claim Standard” (RCS) certification in Europe and on “Fair Trade” and “Good Cashmere Standard” certified garments in the United States.

5. Mix of sustainable fabrics
About environmental impact, fabrics also play a fundamental role. Through data-driven tools, brands are able to find valuable information on sustainable materials that are gaining tractions in collections and thus make informed and strategic decisions in the process of planning their creations.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK has continued the ongoing process of strengthening its Research & Development team. The latest addition is Charlotte Witts, who is currently studying for a degree in Chemistry at Nottingham University and will work at FET for a 12-month period. She will continue her studies in chemistry as distant learning modules whilst also working at FET. FET designs, develops and manufactures extrusion equipment for a wide range of high value textile material applications worldwide.

“I’m really excited to be joining the team at FET and getting stuck in to the role. Sustainability is a big passion of mine, so I’m looking forward to learning how FET develops new technologies that support the textile industry in this endeavour. I hope that my previous studies within this area will help to foster new ideas.”

Furthermore, FET has a development policy of bringing young people into the industry and has invested heavily in recent years to this end, helping to address the skills gap in the UK textile industry. The company’s R&D department comprises ten scientists and engineers who work closely with customers on process development and new product trials.

Charlotte Witts will be focusing on the wet spinning process which is fortuitous as FET has just finished commissioning their own in-house low viscosity wet spinning system. Over the coming year she will focus on spinning a number of bio-sourced polymers (e.g. alginate, chitosan, gelatin, recombinant proteins). These materials require a strong scientific understanding of the underlying chemistry to successfully produce a high-quality yarn. Furthermore, FET regularly gets customer requests to conduct trial work on these materials to de-risk the equipment purchase process.

Devan Chemicals announces that its BI-OME® NTL MG technology has received the Allergy UK Seal of Approval. This recognition underscores the effectiveness of BI-OME® NTL MG in providing protection against dust mites.

Allergy UK, a leading charity dedicated to supporting people with allergies in the United Kingdom, has granted this accreditation following rigorous independent testing. The BI-OME® NTL MG technology, has been proven to be beneficial for those with allergic sensitivities to house dust mites. This has also been confirmed by an external lab according to French standard NF G 39-011.

BI-OME® NTL MG is a biobased, non-harmful anti-dust mite and antibacterial technology which guarantees optimal freshness and hygiene for all kinds of textiles, such as mattresses, mattress protectors, pillows and quilts.
It features a blend of linseed oil and margosa oil. Derived from flax seeds, linseed oil acts as an antibacterial agent, promoting sustainable freshness, while margosa oil is known for its anti-dust mite properties.

Devan’s customers will now have an opportunity to make use of the Allergy UK logo on their products that incorporate BI-OME® NTL MG technology after signing a license agreement with Allergy UK. This allows manufacturers to provide an added value to consumers seeking products that support allergy management.

Archromais introducing an innovative portable version of its Color Atlas by Archroma® color catalogue to help streamline textile and fashion industry workflows with convenient color comparison.

The Color Atlas by Archroma®, Mini Flex and Mini Palette editions are available as libraries of textile color swatches that set a new standard for efficient color selection and comparison while on the go, in the office, factory or in a work-from-home setting.

Color comparison is a fundamental part of the work of designers and their textile mill and brand partners. However, achieving the perfect color match or color harmony without convenient access to color library reference books has long been a challenge. Physical color libraries can be bulky and heavy with even compact editions of physical libraries are too big to fit into a backpack or shoulder bag. The new Color Atlas by Archroma® formats give designers a visual companion tool for digital color libraries may not be accurate due to the limitations of the user’s smartphone or tablet display.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® Mini Flex and Mini Palette editions overcome these challenges. Both formats are user friendly and travel-ready, with no mask required to isolate colors for selection and comparison.

• The Mini Flex edition features textile color chips that allow users to quickly find and compare colors with their desired target color.
• In the Mini Palette edition, individual color chips are inserted into slots in plastic palette sheets for ease of use and portability. Users can carry the pre-made palette sheet swatches or customize a palette sheet using chips from several swatches.

Both Color Atlas by Archroma® Mini Flex and Mini Palette formats contain 5,760 colors: 4,320 cotton colors and 1,440 polyester colors. Each of the colors are also available from Archroma as Engineered Color Standards that include achievability information on alternate fiber types, precise dyeing recipes formulated with products that comply with leading international eco-standards, digital data for recipe predictions, dye eco compliance information and access to expert technical support from Archroma around the world.