From the Sector

There are only a few days left until the SEEK community comes together at the Station Berlin on 16 and 17 January 2024. The team around SEEK's Show Director Marie-Luise Patzelt is looking forward to welcome around 200 brands, speakers such as Jessica Arnold (Adidas), Sebastian Haufellner (Lodenfrey), Yannik Dietrich (Breuninger), Martyna Zastawna (Vogue), numerous game changers from the sustainability scene and new fashion and lifestyle inspirations.

The new alliance between SEEK and UNION Showroom presents its joint project "THE JUNCTION" for the first time. A selection of high-quality brands with a focus on craftsmanship, origin, and history will be presented in Station Berlin's exclusive loft spaces, includes brands such as A New Sweden, Bruné, Freenote Cloth, Fullcount, Godspeed, Good-Alls, Hidden Aces, Nudie Jeans, Oodoo Boots, Paltò, Viberg, White Sand, and Tenue. THE JUNCTION starts simultaneously with UNION on 14.01.24 and ends with SEEK on 17.01.24.

The SEEK brand portfolio currently encompasses almost 200 brands, including 46 % conscious brands and 45 % newcomers. Buyers and visitors can look forward to brands such as Aer Scents, Bask in the Sun, Chrome, Danner, Dedicated, Givn Berlin, Hestra, Kangaroos, Novesta, Palladium, Pyrenex, Santa Cruz Skateboards, Welter Shelter and Woodbird. Newcomers include Afoam Stories, A Good Company, Dale Of Norway, Good Wool Story, Heimat, Hen's Teeth, Open Era, Pompeii, The Jogg Concept, Wax London and many more.

The SEEK Conscious Club forms the heart of the January edition and is developing into the "place to be" of the sustainability scene. Purpose-driven business practices, systematic sustainability and practical standards will become even more crucial in 2024. With this in mind, the SEEK team introduces the innovative "360 Sustainability Validation" with its partners IVALO.COM and studio MM04. The "360 Sustainability Validation" - powered by IVALO.COM and consulted by studio MM04. Customers can see brand sustainability in 8 different sustainability categories. 360 is a commercial production value chain analysis tool that provides results that are comparable. The aim is to make the complex sub-areas of sustainability in fashion more transparent and comparable. The SEEK team has been working with the sustainability experts at studio MM04 for a long time and is delighted to be part of this important step towards standardising sustainability evaluations. Participating brands in this years Conscious Club are Basic Apparel, Bread & Boxers, Cabaia, Camper, Dawn Denim, Flamingos Life, Isaora, Jan'n June, Kings of Indigo, Rita Row, Secrid, Stapf and Thinking Mu, amongst others.

Together with renowned experts, SEEK is once again presenting a content programme with live interviews, talks, panels and community classes. Speakers such as Carl Tillessen (Deutsches Mode Institut), Steffen Liese (JD Sports), Stephan Huber (Style in Progress), Penny Whitelaw (Good on You), Mimi Sewalski (Avocadostore), Valerie Vogel (Engelhorn), Cheryll Mühlen (J'N'C), Rune Orloff (Pool), Sabine Rogg (Trendbüro), Anthony Lui (A New Sweden), Patrick Bergmann (Famefact), Florian Müller (Müller PR & Consulting) will share their insights exclusively with the SEEK community. The diverse programme includes themes such as pricing and profiling success strategies in times of disruption, a "no-bullshit" guide for brand spaces, the most important LinkedIn and consumer trends for 2024, new chances for recruiting and leadership as well as mental health in fashion.

The Dutch company Knitwear Lab helps visions become reality. The creative think tank offers capacities in the areas of R&D, design, knitwear development and production of prototypes and small quantities and has thus implemented a wide range of projects in recent years. The objects range from medical products and high-tech sportswear to smart textiles with integrated sensors. Sustainability activities are also part of the repertoire, such as the production of yarns from recycled waste.

Knitwear Lab operates at two locations for its diverse tasks: Almere in the Netherlandsis available for development work. In Istanbul, there is a branch for production. Both Knitwear Lab sites each have five STOLL flat knitting machines, including models from the modern ADF range. Prototypes are produced in Almere and there is small-scale production. The production plant in Istanbul specializes in the manufacture of high-quality knitwear in small quantities. STOLL is also involved in the creative processes. For the industrial development of knitwear, Knitwear Lab offers Virtual Knitting, a revolutionary method that combines virtual and physical elements of pattern development and knitwear production to reduce waste and pre-production steps. Customers can use Virtual Knitting to create realistic, producible collections, simplify their design iteration processes and take advantage of the wide range of real-life colorways. The basis for this is comprehensive knitwear expertise, the latest 3D software and the CREATE PLUS patterning software, which was developed by STOLL together with KM.ON.

"The 3D visualization of CREATE simplifies communication with the customer considerably. We use this function every day," says Annika Klaas, Senior Knitwear Programmer. She personally appreciates the uncomplicated grading and exchange of stitch dimensions and the much faster and more efficient work with Dimensioned Shapes that this makes possible. This helps her in her day-to-day work. "We often have requests to realize the same product in different yarns, which now works much faster," says the programmer. Further simplifications would include minor optimizations in terms of the efficiency and user-friendliness of programming and additional import and export options for shapes. Discussions on implementation are already underway.

From 11 to 14 January 2024, the global carpet and flooring industry will meet at the Hannover exhibition grounds to discuss new products and current industry trends. With 1,000 international exhibitors, DOMOTEX promises a comprehensive overview of the Flooring und Carpets & Rugs sectors.

In addition to top exhibitors from the Carpets & Rugs sector, numerous global brands from the flooring industry will be exhibiting.
Well-known and long-standing exhibitors such as Area Floors, Amorim, Lamett, Li & Co, Camsan, Design Parquet, CFL Flooring, AGT, Forestry Timber, STP, SWISS KRONO, Decospan, Massive Holding, Floorify and Granorte have confirmed their participation. However, new exhibitors or those who have not participated for several years are also back in 2024 – including Kronospan and Kaindl, mFlor, Onefloor, Republic, Classen, Gerflor and MeisterWerke. From the field of application and installation technology, Neuhofer, SELIT, Välinge, Estillon, Shaper Origin, ADESIV, KLEIBERIT and i4F have also announced their participation.

In addition to the main exhibition, DOMOTEX will offer a variety of side events designed to provide important impulses for the day-to-day business of all trade visitors

THE GREEN COLLECTION
For the second time, THE GREEN COLLECTION in Hall 23 will highlight the latest developments in the fields of sustainability, circular economy and environmental protection in the carpet and flooring industry for visitors to experience first-hand. The special display includes current research projects by TFI Aachen, a haptic material show by raumprobe and product presentations by companies such as Uzin Utz, Classen and Gerflor.

RETAILERS‘ PARK
In collaboration with DECOR-UNION and the MEGA Group, DOMOTEX will be expanding its portfolio to include the two product segments "wall" and "ceiling" for the first time. In addition to other flooring suppliers, the RETAILERS' PARK in Hall 19/20 will feature products for holistic interior design, including paints and coatings from Südwest, Meffert and PPG Coatings as well as wallpapers from AS and Erfurt. Participants can also look forward to practical solutions for their day-to-day business, presented in the area's own user forum through hands-on live demonstrations.

DOMOTEX on Stage
The conference program in Hall 23 features experts from the retail sector, associations, architecture, interior design, trade and politics, who will offer a holistic view of the topics of the future for the entire industry. On Friday, 12 January, German politician and member of the European Parliament Reinhard Bütikofer will give a presentation on the European Green Deal. Joachim Stumpp, Managing Director of raumprobe, and Chiara Rodriguez from Materially will report on sustainable materials. In addition to sustainability, topics relating to trends, new work and the shortage of skilled workers will also play a keyrole at DOMOTEX on Stage.

A collaboration between Deakin University researchers and Australia’s largest commercial linen supplier Simba Global is tackling a critical global issue, the spread of harmful microplastics through our laundry.

Clothing and textiles are estimated to generate up to 35 per cent of the microplastics found in the world’s oceans, making them one of the biggest contributors. But there is still a lot to be learnt about the characteristics of these microplastics and exactly how and why they are generated.

Researchers at the ARC Research Hub for Future Fibres in Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials (IFM) have teamed up with Simba Global, a global textile manufacturing and supply company, to better understand the extent and type of microplastics shed when their products are laundered. Simba Global wants to lead the charge to reduce the environmental impact of textiles.

Lead scientist IFM Associate Professor Maryam Naebe said working with an industry partner on the scale of Simba Global meant the research could have a huge real-world impact.

Simba Global is the major linen supplier to Australia’s hospitals, hotels and mining camps, resulting in 950,000 tonnes of textile products – including bedsheets, bath towels, scrubs and much more – going through the commercial laundering process each year. It also supplies international markets in New Zealand, Singapore and the US.

“As part of our research, we will investigate potential solutions including the pre-treatment of textiles to reduce the shedding of microplastics, or even increasing the size of the plastics that break down so they can be better captured and removed by filtration during the laundering process,” Associate Professor Naebe said.

“Microplastics are now ubiquitous in the environment, they’re in the air we breathe, the food we eat and the earth we walk on. The magnitude of the problem is bigger than previously thought.

“Of serious concern is the mounting evidence that microplastics are having a negative impact on human and animal health. There are not just physical, but chemical and biological impacts.”

Associate Professor Naebe’s team have taken the first steps in the project, analysing wastewater samples from commercial laundries with high-powered electron microscopes in their Geelong laboratory, part of the largest fibres and textiles research facility in Australia.

The team recently presented a new scientific paper at the Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX) Conference 2023, which started the important process of formally categorising these types of microplastics, as well as developing standard terminology and testing methods.

“Because our understanding of microplastics is still in its infancy, we needed to start right at the beginning,” Associate Professor Naebe said.

“We need to have a standard definition of what is a microplastic. Up to this point that has been lacking, which makes it difficult to compare and incorporate other studies in this area.

“We are now developing a systematic method for sampling and identifying microplastics in laundry wastewater. It has been tricky to measure the different sizes, but this is important information to have. For example, there are studies that suggest some sizes of microplastics are causing more issues in certain animals.

“The next step will be establishing an essential method to prevent the release of microplastics from textile laundering. This may involve a coating on the surface of the textile or better ways to collect the waste during the washing process.”

Simba Global Executive Chair Hiten Somaia said the company had a strong focus on sustainability, driven by the business’ purpose statement.

“We are proud to partner with Deakin University in what is the first significant research into textile microplastic pollution in Australia. What we are most excited about is sharing the results of this research with all other textile markets in Australia – including clothing – and putting an end to microplastic pollution from textiles.”

This year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME proved to be a success for the exhibiting VDMA member companies. Measured by booked square metres, Germany had the largest contingent, among the foreign exhibitors. More than 40 VDMA member companies were exhibiting their innovative products in Shanghai.

Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association noted: “Although facing a difficult market situation, this year’s edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded the expectations, both in terms of the number of visitors and the quality of the talks. The significant number of foreign visitors to the fair was particularly pleasing.”

Solutions were demonstrated for more sustainable textile productions by most of the exhibitors, and here the VDMA members presented their technologies for saving water, energy and raw materials under the heading “Smart technologies for green textile production.”  

Dr. Uwe Rondé, CEO, Saurer Intelligent Technology AG explained: “Saurer is satisfied with both the number of visitors and the quality of the discussions. Our booth was full from morning to evening with customers focused on latest technologies within the three mega trends: recycling, automation and digitalisation. Although machine utilisation in the spinning mills is still well below average, people are already gathering information and thinking about what to invest in once the market recovers.”

Benjamin Reiners, owner of Reiners + Fürst stated: „This year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME has exceeded our expectations by far. Especially the first day - a Sunday - has brought many high-quality customers and exclusively decision makers to our booth. We estimate about 20% international customers mainly from Bangladesh, Egypt, India, Iran, Pakistan, Uzbekistan and Vietnam. All customers agreed that the market situation at the moment is difficult, capacity usage is between 50-75% in the ring spinning sector and improvement is expected not before the 2nd half of 2024. Nevertheless the general spirit is very positive.“

“This ITMA ASIA was a great success for Trützschler. We welcomed a large number of Chinese visitors to our booth, as well as a significant number of interested international visitors”, said Dr. Bettina Temath, Head of Global Marketing Trützschler Group SE.

Georg Stausberg, CEO of the polymer processing solutions division and chief sustainability officer of the Oerlikon Group stated: „We can look back on a successful show where we were able to meet many of our customers not only from China, but also from Pakistan, India and Indonesia, for example.”

“A very well-attended trade fair, with interesting discussions, great innovative topics, in line with the modern and rapidly developing China" noted Wolfgang Schöffl, head of product line weaving machines and member of the extended management, Lindauer Dornier.

The VDMA Textile Machinery Association and VDMA China were present at the fair, to support the members e.g. with regard to IPR. With the help of a VDMA expert and a contracted law firm, the member company Sahm submitted a complaint application for patent infringement disputes during the exhibition to the onsite IPR office. Both parties, Sahm, and the Chinese company, that used patented design without permission reached an agreement: The Chinese company had to stop displaying functions and designs involving patent infringement on site which meant the removal of some structural parts and the covering of key components protected by patent protection.

Dr. Harald Weber, managing director of VDMA Textile Machinery concluded: “Asia, and China in particular, represent the primary foreign markets for the VDMA member companies in the sector. The Chinese market is the main destination for their exports. Other major export destinations in Asia include India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a unique platform to showcase technologies for customers directly in Asia. The VDMA member companies are looking forward to the coming edition of the fair from 14 to 18 October 2024 in Shanghai.”

The latest survey of VDMA members' subsidiaries in China gives reason to hope that the economic situation in the Chinese textile industry could also improve significantly in the second half of the year. In addition, European textile machinery manufacturers are urged to be present on the most important market and at the trade fair and to offer Asian customers most advanced technology for their demanding challenges.

The kick-off meeting for the "Trends and Design Factors for Hydrogen Pressure Vessels" project, recently held at AZL Aachen GmbH, was a successful event, bringing together more than 37 experts in the field of composite technologies. This event laid a solid foundation for the Joint Partner Project, which currently comprises a consortium of 20 renowned companies from across the composite pressure vessel value chain: Ascend Performance Materials, C evotec GmbH, Chongqing Polycomp International Corp. (CPIC), Conbility GmbH, Elkamet Kunststofftechnik GmbH, F.A. Kümpers GmbH & Co. KG, f loteks plastik sanayi ticaret a.s., Formosa Plastics Corporation, Heraeus Noblelight GmbH, Huntsman Advanced Materials, Kaneka Belgium NV, Laserline GmbH, Mitsui Chemicals Europe GmbH, Plastik Omnium, Rassini Europe GmbH, Robert Bosch GmbH, Swancor Holding Co. Ltd. Ltd., TECNALIA, Toyota Motor Europe NV/SA, Tünkers do Brasil Ltda.

The project follows AZL´s well proven approach of a Joint Partner Project, aiming to provide technology and market insights as well as benchmarking of different material and production setups in combination with connecting experts along the value chain.

The kick-off meeting not only served as a platform to foster new contacts and get informed about the expertise and interests of the consortium members in the field of hydrogen pressure vessels, but also laid the groundwork for steering the focus of the upc oming project's ambitious phases. As a basis for the interactive discussion session, AZL outlined the background, motivation and detailed work plan. The central issues of the dialogue were the primary objectives, the most pressing challenges, the contribut ion to competitiveness, and
the priorities that would best meet the expectations of the project partners.

Discussions covered regulatory issues, the evolving value chain and the supply and properties of key materials such as carbon and glass fibres and resins. The consortium defined investigations into different manufacturing technologies, assessing their matu rity and potential benefits. Design layouts, including liners, boss designs and winding patterns, were thoroughly considered, taking into account their implications for mobile and stationary storage. The group is also interested in cost effective testing m ethods and certification processes, as well as the prospects for recycling into continuous fibres and the use of sustainable materials. Insight was requested into future demand for hydrogen tanks, OEM needs and strategies, and technological developments to produce more economical tanks.

The meeting highlighted the importance of CAE designs for fibre patterns, software suitability and the application dependent use of thermoset and thermoplastic designs.

The first report meeting will also set the stage of the next project phase, which will be the creation of reference designs by AZL's engineering team. These designs will cover a range of pressure vessel configurations using a variety of materials and production concepts. The aim is to develop models that not only re flect current technological capabilities, but also provide deep insight into the cost analysis of different production technologies, their CO₂ footprint, recycling aspects and scalability.

AZL's project remains open to additional participants. Companies interested in joining this initiative are invited to contact Philipp Fröhlig.

2024 is a turning point for the European textiles and clothing industry: From 6 to 9 June 2024, European citizens will vote for a new European Parliament and, based on the results, a new European Commission will be formed. In view of this important election, EURATEX publishes a Manifesto, presenting 15 requests which will help to ensure a competitive European textiles and clothing industry.

The textile and apparel industry is making a substantial contribution to European wealth, jobs and growth. Europe counts 192,000 companies employing 1.3 million workers with a turnover of €167 billion and over €67 billion of exports. Entrepreneurship should be recognised as the foundation for a competitive textile industry, offering high quality and sustainable products, based on innovation, creativity and design. European policy makers should recognise such role to textiles and apparel companies and have an open dialogue to create better framework conditions to operate in the internal and global markets.

To realise that vision, the industry and policy makers need to work together on a mix of policy measures and initiatives, which are coherent and offer a transparent and predictable framework for our companies, and make them more resilient and competitive.

These policies should focus around four points:

Develop and implement a “smart” EU industrial policy
Europe should create policies which enhance competitiveness, instead of creating administrative burdens. To EURATEX, each new piece of legislation should undergo a “competitiveness test” to critically look at the impact of the new rules. Europe should also create a favourable environment to promote education and jobs in the industry. The EU textile industry currently employees 1,3 million people, 30% of which is above 50 years old. A critical bottleneck for the textile industry is to attract (young) people and make sure these people have the right set of skills, to operate in a changing textile ecosystem. EURATEX also asks the EU to invest in innovation and digitalisation as they are key to the European competitive advantage. Not only, as the last years have proved, Europe should provide companies with access to sustainable energy at lower prices.

No sustainability without competitiveness
The EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles is pushing our sector towards new business models with a lower environmental footprint. To realise that ambition, no less than 16 regulatory proposals are on the table, each of them with a different timetable, managed by different departments of the European Commission. EURATEX is committed to sustainability, but asks for economic realism. This set of new regulations needs to be coherent, enforceable, feasible and applicable for SMEs, and not push textile companies out of the market. Moreover, some member states are moving forward faster and some legislations will be decided at national level, creating fragmentation of the market. Such scenarios will hamper Europe and its possibilities to grow.

Ensure free and fair trade
With $224 billion in sold merchandise, Europe is the second major world exporters of textiles and clothes after China ($321 billion). It is therefore important that the global market should be open, free and fair for our industry to continue to thrive. Besides the support to FTAs in general, EURATEX wants to emphasise that all trade agreements should offer effective market access for EU companies and a level playing field in these markets. A free and open market should go hand in hand also with protection against free riders. The EU must always consider enforcement and enforceability when making new laws; it should also take action together with the member states for a better coordination with harmonised criteria for action among Customs Authorities.

Incentivise the Demand for sustainable textiles
Sustainable textile products typically come at a premium price, making it difficult for many consumers and buyers to purchase such products. Many surveys across Europe confirm that around 50% of interviewees do not purchase sustainable fashion products and the main reason is price. EURATEX believes that, to create a demand and help consumers to buy a (genuine) sustainable textile product, there should be standard requirements and fiscal incentives. Public authorities should also implement green public procurements, by increasing the importance of sustainability criteria in their evaluation grids.

At the upcoming edition of Colombiatex, that will take place in Medellin from January 23 to 25, 2024, the leading Italian manufacturers of textile machinery will be present in the common area organized by Italian Trade Agency and ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers.

There will be 23 companies exhibiting in the Italian pavilion. Among these, ACIMIT members companies are: Btsr, Color Service, Danti, Fadis, Flainox, Isotex, Itema, Kairos Engineering, Lgl, Lonati, Mcs, Monti-Mac, Nexia, Orox, Ratti, Reggiani Macchine, Salvadè, Santoni, Srs, Stalam, Tecnorama, Ugolini.

The Colombian textile and clothing industry has experienced significant growth in recent years. Consequently, imports of textile machinery have also increased. In 2023, Colombian imports are expected to reach 58 million euros. For the period 2024-2027, the Country’s import growth is projected to be an average of 2.2% annually, according to data compiled by ACIMIT.

Italy has long been a technological partner for Colombian textile companies that have invested in the modernization of the production process. Italian exports to Colombia in 2022 exceeded 18 million euros (a 50% increase from the previous year). In the first six months of 2023, Italian exports to Colombia reached 9 million euros.

Eastman Naia™ Renew cellulosic fiber received Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certification on December 13. This certifies Naia™ Renew recycled content, chain of custody, social and environmental practices, and chemical restrictions.

Textile Exchange, a global non-profit for sustainable change in the fashion and textile industry, manages the GRS certification process. Certification is achieved through an audit from independent third-party certifying body SCS Global Services and applies to the full supply chain and addresses traceability, environmental principles, social requirements, chemical content and labeling.

"We’re honored to add GRS certification to our list of Naia™ certifications that support our sustainability goals,” said Claudia de Witte, sustainability leader for Eastman textiles. “Third-party certifications help us build our brand trustworthiness. It’s our goal to make sustainable textiles available to all, and we do that by building trust with our customers and collaborators. This certification adds even more credibility to our fibers and our sustainability story, which we’re proud to share.”

In June 2023, Textile Exchange made an important announcement regarding its Alternative Volume Reconciliation (VR2) policy, which broadened the range of chemical recycling technologies eligible for mass balance. Notably, this expansion now encompasses gasification, the technical description of Eastman’s molecular recycling technology known as carbon renewal technology. Eastman collaborated with Textile Exchange and other stakeholders to educate the industry about the value and contribution of its molecular recycling technology. This policy update is critical for Eastman because it allows the company’s innovative material-to-material recycling technology to be audited for GRS certification.

Molecular recycling technologies at Eastman break waste down into its molecular building blocks allowing the materials to be used in new materials that are indistinguishable from non-recycled materials. By expanding the GRS to include gasification, the global standard now allows for a broader approach to making sustainable textiles accessible to everyone.

In recent years, the textiles industry has shifted toward circular materials to help tackle one of the largest challenges facing the planet: waste pollution, especially textile waste. Eastman molecular recycling is complementary to mechanical recycling and is a solution for hard-to-recycle waste material, including textiles, which are impacted by factors like fiber blends, chemicals and additives.

Naia™ Renew is produced from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% GRS-certified* waste materials that would otherwise be destined for landfills through Eastman's patented molecular recycling technology. The certification verifies the processes of chemical recycling, concentrating, extrusion, and spinning of the undyed yarns and fibers.

In a world where water-repellent textiles play an important role in various industries, Pulcra Chemicals has joined forces with its subsidiary, Devan Chemicals, to introduce DEVAN REPEL. The first product, DEVAN REPEL ONE, is a durable water repellent for Polyester and blends. The development of DEVAN REPEL ONE is a joint to Devan and Pulcra's dedication to innovation and sustainability.

The solution offers a range of benefits:

• Superior Performance: The technology offers outstanding water repellency performance, ensuring that textiles remain dry. Whether it's rain and outdoor wear, outdoor furnishing, shower curtains or multiple technical textiles, the new solution can handle it, making it a strong choice for industries where water resistance is paramount.
• Flexibility: The versatility of this technology can be applied to a wide range of materials, with especially good results on polyester and its blends, offering flexibility for various applications across industries.
• Enhanced Sustainability: This technology is free from perfluorinated compounds (PFCs), and free from isocyanates.
• Longevity: Products treated with this water repellency technology are protecting from the elements for a longer lifespan.

Performance, particularly on effect durability, can be boosted to meet different requirements with new DEVAN EXTENDER GEN3. This extender is free of Isocyanate, Butanone-oxime and 2-dimethylpyrazole.