From the Sector

Groz-Beckert offers interested machine builders various cooperation opportunities to jointly develop new products or improve existing ones. In collaboration with Vanguard Pailung, a manufacturer of ultra-high-speed knitting machines for body-size products, Groz-Beckert has developed an innovative slider needle for a new generation of machines. Groz-Beckert's Technology and Development Center (TEZ) provides the appropriate framework for so-called co-development projects.

In June 2022, Vanguard Pailung approached Groz-Beckert with a cooperation request. Together with Groz-Beckert, the company wanted to develop a new needle solution for an innovative ultra-high-speed machine. Together with an innovative slide needle, the new machine was to exceed the speed and productivity of known knitting systems of large circular knitting machines.

Machine and needle development ran in parallel and were closely coordinated. The first field tests took place in the Vanguard Pailung laboratory in Monroe/NC, USA in February 2023. The successful development was presented to a wide audience for the first time at ITMA 2023 in June.

Unlike latch needles, slide needles do not form the stitch via a needle latch, but via a slide that is controlled by its own channel. The advantage of this is that the needle can withstand high speeds, as there is no latch impact, which in turn increases productivity.

The use of the new slide needle in ultra-high-speed machines ensures a particularly high level of process reliability. With the new needle variant, the closer is guided safely and precisely in the groove in the needle shank. At the same time, the base of the needle shank is closed, which ensures maximum stability. The slider needle reliably prevents the so-called latch impact and thus makes a decisive contribution to process reliability. Its use ensures a uniform and speed-independent loop structure, even at maximum speeds.

Together with the German circular knitting machine builder Mayer & Cie., Groz-Beckert has developed the optimized Relanit sinker SNK F over the past years. Independently of this, the development of the new LCmax™ energy-saving needles took place. The focus of both developments is on efficiency, energy savings and increased process reliability.

Groz-Beckert offers interested machine builders different cooperation options to jointly develop new products or optimize existing ones. The Groz-Beckert Technology and Development Center (TEZ) provides the appropriate framework for so-called co-development projects. At the ITMA in Milan in June 2023, Groz-Beckert presented some of the successful cooperations under the motto "Innovation through cooperation". Among them were two new developments realized with Mayer & Cie. Groz-Beckert presented the two new products for the first time in Asia at ITMA Asia in November 2023.

Optimized Relanit sinker SNK F
At the end of 2018, circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. approached Groz-Beckert with a request to jointly develop an improved and more efficient sinker for selected machines of their Relanit family that would run more smoothly and reliably in the needle tricks. The innovative sinker has an integral spring with a spring force that is adapted to the sinker thickness. Field tests were consistently successful and confirmed the functionality and advantages of the new sinker.

Thanks to their adapted spring, the newly developed SNK F Relanit sinkers are securely guided while they are running through the cam track, resulting in a quieter operation. This increases process reliability and ensures an improved loop structure. In addition, wear on the swivel butts of the sinkers is reduced. This increases service life and makes the process more sustainable and cost-efficient.

Higher energy efficiency thanks to LCmax™
The objective second recent cooperation with Mayer & Cie. was to develop a cost-effective energy-saving needle. After considering various variants, the common choice of Mayer & Cie. and Groz-Beckert was the LCmax™ knitting machine needle with innovative, wave-shaped shank geometry. The first prototypes were extensively tested on laboratory machines at Groz-Beckert's TEZ.

The wave-shaped shank of the LCmax™ needle ensures a smaller contact area of the needle in the needle trick. This results in less friction, which reduces machine temperature and enables energy savings of up to 20 percent compared to a standard needle. This saves costs and at the same time allows operation of the machine at the maximum possible speed.

In both projects, the cooperation between Mayer & Cie. and Groz-Beckert went far beyond mere product development. In addition to Applications Engineering and Construction, the companies' Sales and Purchasing departments were also involved in a close exchange.

The 11^th India ITME will take place from December 8.– 13., 2022, in Noida, India. Over 1,800 exhibitors and more than 150,000 trade visitors from the textile and apparel industry from all over the world are expected. Groz-Beckert will be presenting innovations from its various product areas..

India ITME takes place every four years and is the ideal technology platform for forward-looking innovations in the textile world. At the 11th edition of India ITME, exhibitors will be presenting their highlights from research and development across 15 halls.

The Knitting Product Division will be presenting several new products at India ITME: Among them the SAN™ SF staple fiber needle and the SNK SF staple fiber sinker, which are specially designed for use on large circular knitting machines. The division will also be exhibiting the SAN™ TT for application-related use in the field of technical textiles for flat knitting machines, as well as a needle which enables the advance into new dimensions of gauge in the flat knitting sector.

Groz-Beckert will also be demonstrating its competence as a system supplier in the field of warp knitting at the India ITME. The warp knitting machine needles and system parts from Groz-Beckert are precisely matched to one another and achieve a uniform and flawless warp knitting process.

With the WarpMasterPlus and the KnotMaster, the Weaving product division presents the latest generation of drawing-in and knotting machines from Groz-Beckert. They are particularly distinguished by their ease of operation and flexibility.

The product area Felting (Nonwovens) presents its product and service highlights for the nonwovens industry. These include the HyTec P jet strip for spunlace customers as well as the GEBECON felting needle, the dur needle, EcoStar felting needle and the Groz-Beckert customer product. The HyTec P-nozzle strip is characterized by improved handling and higher hardness. The patented GEBECON felting needle offers an improved surface finish and optimized breakage bending properties.

The Carding product area will present its further developments for the spinning industry. These include the new stationary flat series, the TV56 revolving top and the cylinder wire set with special tooth geometry. The new stationary flat series is characterized by an innovative tooth geometry and a new type of tooth distribution. The new TV56  revolving top with its new setting pattern and 560 points per square inch is particularly easy to clean. The improved cylinder wire convinces with its special and patented tooth shape, which has a positive effect on the maintenance effort. This makes it particularly suitable for quality-oriented cotton spinning mills producing high-quality yarns. Visitors can also look forward to the new InLine card clothing series for the nonwovens sector.

In the Sewing exhibition area, the focus is on technical textiles – in particular the manufacture of car seats. The answer to the high demands of sewing car seats is the special application needle SAN® 5.2 from Groz-Beckert. The special geometry gives it sufficient stability. The double groove at the point improves thread guidance and leads to a uniform seam pattern, especially in multidirectional sewing processes. The scarf chamfer on both sides of the needle prevent skipped stitches and optimize loop formation. The wear protection is increased by the titanium nitride coating GEBEDUR. In addition, the quality management INH will be exhibited and the functions and contents of the customer portal will be presented.

SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA S.p.A. will exhibit at the 91st edition of the Pitti Immagine Filati exhibition in Florence, Italy from 29th June till 1st July, 2022. Products exhibited will include the SWG-FIRST124 and N.SIR123SP computerized flat knitting machines as well as APEXFiz™ design software.

The renewed SWG-FIRST124 is a synthesis of all of SHIMA SEIKI’s experience and know-how in computerized shaped knitting, realizing a tremendous range of knitting from full-fashioning and rib shaping to integral knitting. This all-purpose capability is made possible by the revolutionary SlideNeedle™, which, together with loop pressers and transfer jacks, offers remarkable variety, expanding the boundaries of flat knitting with the capability to produce garments that were previously impossible to produce.

The N.SIR123SP computerized knitting machine with intarsia capability features a special loop presser bed for producing hybrid inlay fabrics with both knit and weave characteristics. N.SIR123SP will also feature the special i-Plating option, capable of alternating yarn colors in any pattern, producing jacquard-like designs using plain jersey stitch. Plating can be performed within the same course and for individual needles. In combination with the loop presser and spring-type moveable sinker system even greater diversity in knit design is possible.

APEXFiz™ is subscription-based design software that supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. APEXFiz™ thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.

Continuing from past editions of Pitti Filati are knit samples produced in collaboration with Italian designer Vittorio Branchizio. Staff at the SHIMA SEIKI booth will be donning knit uniforms produced as a collaborative effort between SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA, knitting companies and yarn companies.

Leading knit solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its U.S. subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI U.S.A. INC., will participate in the Techtextil North America exhibition in Atlanta, Georgia, U.S.A. this month. Under the theme “techKNITians—Technical Engineered Knit Applications,” the company will display its latest computerized flat knitting machines and computer graphic design system technology, aimed at promoting knitted applications in the field of technical textiles.

Pioneered by SHIMA SEIKI, WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology is capable of producing knitted items in their entirety without the need for sewing, and allows complex 3D forms to be knit such as car seat covers and interior furnishings. Selective compression allows control over placement and amount of pressure for various compression wear in sports and medical applications. The seam-free nature of WHOLEGARMENT® also ensures continuity of yarn, allowing functional yarns such as conductive yarns to wrap around the entire body without interruption, for applications in smart garments and wearable technology. Demonstrating the latest in WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology at Techtextil will be the flagship MACH2XS machine that features the company’s original SlideNeedle™ on 4 needle beds and patented springloaded full-time sinker system. Capable of WHOLEGARMENT® knitting in all-needles, MACH2XS offers great flexibility for knitting high-quality WHOLEGARMENT® products with a seemingly endless variety of knit patterns at very high speed and efficiency, all while minimizing dependence upon labor-intensive sewing and linking. At Techtextil North America MACH2XS will be shown knitting a seam-free balaclava in one entire piece using fire-resistant yarn.

Also shown will be the SWG091N2 compact WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine, also featuring SlideNeedle™ technology. Capable of producing small knitted items from safety gloves and compression socks to more sophisticated industrial applications such as tubular shields and harnesses, SWG091N2 offers unique solutions for the automotive, aerospace, sports, medical, safety, outdoor and other markets by knitting items in 3D without seams. SWG091N2 will be knitting fire-resistant gloves at Techtextil North America. SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system will also be available for demonstrations in design and simulation of various technical textiles. Of particular interest is its ultra-realistic simulation capability that realizes virtual sampling. When numerous variations must be evaluated before arriving at a final design, virtual product samples can be used to streamline the decision-making process by minimizing the enormous amount of time and cost normally associated with producing actual physical samples for each variation. The sustainability factor is also undeniable considering the amount of material normally gone to waste in the sampling stage.

Flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Hong Kong subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI (HonG KonG) LTD., will participate in the ITMA Asia + CITME 2020 exhibition to be held at the national Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai, China in June.

Through its exhibit theme—Step Beyond—SHIMA SEIKI will present its vision of the future, while addressing a variety of solutions for the new normal, including proposals in Factory Automation, Digital Transformation (DX), and various online solutions.

At ITMA Asia SHIMA SEIKI will be making proposals for factory automation centered around the special manufacturing capabilities of our WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines. WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear can be knit in one entire piece without the need for linking or sewing, and allows for on-demand knitting. SHIMA SEIKI will present its WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology in the form of two of the latest machines. The flagship MACH2XS is the one of most advanced flat knitting machines, featuring proprietary four-needle bed and Slideneedle™ technology combined with spring-type moveable sinkers and i-DSCS+DTC® Digital Stitch Control System with Intelligence and Dynamic Tension Control, and capable of all-needle knitting of WHOLEGARMENT® items. MACH2XS is presented in ultrafine 18L gauge, shown for the first time in China. Also shown for the first time in China, MACH2VS, a flexible V-bed machine capable of knitting WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear using every other needle, or conventional shaped knitting using all needles. It also features spring-type moveable sinkers and i-DSCS+DTC® Digital Stitch Control System with Intelligence and Dynamic Tension Control. MACH2VS is presented in ultrafine 18G with auto yarn carriers as a prototype option.

ITMA Asia will also be the occasion for a sneak preview of next-Generation 4-bed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology. The new machine is named SWG-XR, adopting the SWG moniker from the first-generation WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine introduced back in 1995. The "X" represents 4 needle beds arranged in an Xshaped formation as per the original SWG-X machine, while "R" stands for Reborn and Revolution, referring to a renewal of SHIMA SEIKI's WHOLEGARMENT® knitting that raises the technology to unprecedented levels. By increasing the number of systems from 3 to 4 and featuring auto yarn carriers, SWG-XR allows even higher productivity and vastly improved range of knitting.

In order to further support efforts in DX in the fashion industry, SHIMA SEIKI has released three new online services over the past year which will also be showcased at ITMA Asia: 'APEXFiz™' subscription-based design software; 'yarnbank ™' digital yarn sourcing web service; and 'SHIMAnAVI™' e-learning service.

Textile innovator Devan Chemicals will launch two new technologies at the upcoming Techtextil show in Frankfurt (May 14-17). Bio-flam, a bio-based flame retardant product and Odour Breakdown, a wash durable, non-biocidal odour control solution.
As tradition goes, every two years Devan participates in Techtextil, the leading international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens. In the quest for sustainability and transparency every company faces these days, the new Devan technologies offer answers to product developers and portfolio designers.

Bio-flam
Some facts & figures: There are at least 5000 fire incidents each day in the EU. Yearly, about 70 000 people are hospitalised with fire-related injuries. Fires cause pollution. So sustainable fire performance of products is an economic, environmental and human necessity. Take the example of mattresses: tests indicate that when on fire, non-FR treated products give less than 5 minutes escape time. Unfortunately, that is not enough time for the fire brigade to arrive. Needless to say that to increase escape time, to reduce the risk and to save lives, products need to be flame retardant. The challenge is to obtain flame retardant properties in the most natural way, to find the right balance between safety for the people and for the planet.

Companies can do this by replacing raw materials from a non-renewable source, by bio-based FR treatments, which are made from renewable sources and do not contain halogens or heavy metals, as described in the norm EN 16785 1:2015. Bio-based FR treatments, like Bio-flam, are made from renewable, vegetable sources and enable the FR treated products to be biodegradable. The active components are 100% halogen- and heavy metal-free. A welcome innovation for the bedding industry, as the European Commission requires mattresses to be recyclable by 2030 in order to reduce landfill.

Bio-flam P307 is the first introduction in the new Devan BIO-FR family, and is biodegradable and is developed to be used on 100% cotton or cotton/viscose mixtures, in order to create an ecological concept, safe for people and planet, whatever might happen. Bio-flam P 307 is developed for mattress ticking to pass EN 597 1&2. The Devan researchers are developing other bio-based products for other market segments and for other fire standards.