From the Sector

In the third quarter of 2024, the order index for Italian textile machinery, as reported by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a decline compared to the period July – September 2023 (-19%). In value terms, the index stood at 50.6 points (base 2021=100).

This drop is due to the decrease in foreign markets (-23%), which account for 86% of total orders. Instead, a 15% increase was observed in Italy compared to the third quarter of 2023. The absolute index value for foreign markets was 49.1 points, while in Italy it reached 61 points. In the third quarter, the order backlog amounted to 3.8 months of guaranteed production.

Marco Salvadè, President of ACIMIT, stated: “The order index remains at low levels. The foreign demand is of greatest concern. Investments in machinery remain stalled in some of the major markets for Italian textile machinery, such as India, Turkey, and Bangladesh.”

The growth in order collection in the domestic market is not sufficient to bridge the gap recorded abroad. Furthermore, the increase needs to be compared with the same quarter in the previous year, when orders were already low. Given the weak demand in several key markets, Italian manufacturers are working to seek new opportunities in Countries where the textile industry is still technologically underdeveloped. Marco Salvadè added: “Recently, ACIMIT organized exploratory missions to Turkmenistan and Kyrgyzstan to assess the local textile market and understand the technological needs of its companies.”

About 50 Italian companies will exhibit at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, taking place from October 14 to 18 in Shanghai. With an area of around 1,400 square meters, Italy ranks among the top exhibiting Countries, as in previous editions. 29 Italian exhibitors will show their innovations within the National Sector Groups, organized by ACIMIT (Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and Italian Trade Agency.

ITMA ASIA + CITME show has always been the main showcase for textile machinery manufacturers in Asia, that absorbs over 50% of global exports. Moreover, China is the world’s largest market in the sector (the value of imported textile machinery in 2023 was around 2.6 billion euro).

For Italian manufacturers as well, the Chinese market is the top foreign destination. In 2023, Italian sales to China amounted to 222 million euro. In the first six months of this year, exports to China increased by 38%, while the performance of total Italian exports declined slightly in the same period.

“We hope that the recovery of the Chinese market, observed in this first half of the year, may be an early indication of a more general upturn in global demand for machinery,” says ACIMIT President Marco Salvadè. Over the past few years, demand from Chinese companies has turned to technologies that combine savings in production costs and environmental friendliness, as also demanded by brands and end consumers. “Today, Italian manufacturers can offer highly customized solutions that are particularly suited to making textile production more sustainable,” confirms Salvadè. “The Chinese textile machinery market is rapidly evolving, and the level of innovation in the technology requested has risen due to the growing international competition that even Chinese companies face. In Shanghai, Italian manufacturers will display their latest innovations, essential for making textile production more efficient and sustainable.”

About 50 Italian companies will exhibit at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, taking place from October 14 to 18 in Shanghai. With an area of around 1,400 square meters, Italy ranks among the top exhibiting countries, as in previous editions. 29 Italian exhibitors will show their innovations within the National Sector Groups, organized by ACIMIT (Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and Italian Trade Agency.

ITMA ASIA + CITME show has always been the main showcase for textile machinery manufacturers in Asia, that absorbs over 50% of global exports. Moreover China is the world’s largest market in the sector (the value of imported textile machinery in 2023 was around 2.6 billion euro).

For Italian manufacturers as well, the Chinese market is the top foreign destination. In 2023, Italian sales to China amounted to 222 million euro. In the first six months of this year, exports to China increased by 38%, while the performance of total Italian exports declined slightly in the same period.

“We hope that the recovery of the Chinese market, observed in this first half of the year, may be an early indication of a more general upturn in global demand for machinery,” says ACIMIT President Marco Salvadè. Over the past few years, demand from Chinese companies has turned to technologies that combine savings in production costs and environmental friendliness, as also demanded by brands and end consumers. “Today, Italian manufacturers can offer highly customized solutions that are particularly suited to making textile production more sustainable,” confirms Salvadè. “The Chinese textile machinery market is rapidly evolving, and the level of innovation in the technology requested has risen due to the growing international competition that even Chinese companies face. In Shanghai, Italian manufacturers will display their latest innovations, essential for making textile production more efficient and sustainable.”

This year's ITMA Asia + CITME 2024 trade fair appearance of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division between 14 and 18 October 2024 will once again focus on current challenges for the global textile machinery industry: the replacement of old systems with energy-efficient and sustainable technology solutions, the use of digital software and hardware solutions to increase productivity and ensure material quality, and the traceability of all products to enable the recycling of the raw materials used in a future-oriented circular economy.

Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions offers complete solutions ranging from extrusion and polycondensation systems to texturized yarn, accompanied by automation and digital solutions. The supply of all process steps from a single source ensures a coordinated technology that guarantees the high quality of the fibers and yarns produced. The entire product portfolio of the supplier of machines and systems primarily to produce polyester, polypropylene and nylon will therefore take centre stage at this year's trade fair.

“The Chinese market continues to have enormous potential for us, even if it has not been able to match the previous times in terms of large new installations of manmade fiber plants and the associated expansion of production capacity for good two years. However, there is still a great need for renewal, especially in terms of sustainability. Shutting down old plants and replacing them with new, modern and energy-efficient technologies is the path to a better and lower-emission future for us all,” explains André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs. “We have been contributing to sustainability with our technology solutions for decades. Be it by increasing energy efficiency with each new generation of machines or by processing new materials,” Wissenberg continues. Oerlikon is proud of the fact that the company has been offering solutions for the textile industry under the e-save sustainability label for 20 years and has saved over 15 million tons of CO2 thanks to the machines and systems developed and installed on the market during this time.

About 25 VDMA members will participate at CAITME, taking place from 11 to 14 September in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. Among the VDMA companies present at the trade fair with their own booth or through agents, 13 companies will be exhibiting in the area of the official German Pavilion, organised by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Climate Action and initiated by VDMA: Brückner Textile Technologies, Erbatech, Georg Sahm, Groz-Beckert, Heusch, KARL MAYER STOLL Textilmaschinenfabrik, KURIS Spezialmaschinen, Lindauer DORNIER, Oerlikon Textile, Stäubli Bayreuth, STC Spinnzwirn, THIES, Xetma Vollenweider.

With exports of textile machinery and accessories worth 85 million euros in 2023, Germany was once again the second biggest supplier to the Uzbek textile sector, surpassed only by China. Uzbekistan is one of the largest producers and exporters of cotton. In the cotton sector, Uzbekistan already has a fully integrated production chain. Almost the entire cotton fibre is spun in the country. The Uzbek government has pushed ahead with extensive economic reforms in recent years. The textile industry is one of the top investment sectors in the manufacturing industry. Besides cotton spinning, the textile sector is enlarging its capacities in the downstream production steps of the textile chain, such as fabric making, finishing and dyeing.

In a position paper published, the companies organised in the VDMA Textile Machinery Association comment on the ambitious EU regulations and their national implementation for the sustainable and circular transformation of the textile and clothing industry.

The production of textiles requires a large number of resources, such as water, energy and chemicals. “The members of VDMA Textile Machinery support customers with products worldwide to utilise great potential already at the textile production stage to thereby reduce CO2 emissions“, explained Verena Thies, Deputy Chairwoman of VDMA Textile Machinery.

The position statement emphasises the importance of efficient processes, circular economy and binding rules for all market participants. Besides, the position paper summarises the status of textile-to-textile recycling processes as well as the framework conditions for reprocessing of recyclates. The companies of VDMA Textile Machinery develop processes and technologies for recycling and provide the technical prerequisites for the efficient reuse and recycling of textile raw materials, whether natural or man-made fibres.
The Executive Board of VDMA Textile Machinery stresses additionally, that the new EU regulations for circular economy and their national implementation must be designed with realistic targets, measurable effects and as little bureaucracy as possible. Furthermore, market surveillance is needed to ensure a level playing field for all market participants.

On behalf of the industry, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association calls for creating better location conditions in Germany and EU as a favourable environment for innovation und competitiveness for textile machinery manufacturing to significantly advance the sustainability of the textile industry: The Textile Machinery Association strongly emphasises the need for a wide range of low-cost green energy, which is essential for the implementation and sustainable use of recycling solutions in the manufacturing industry. The association also sees the positive shaping of location conditions (the potential for skilled labour, a reduction in bureaucracy, shorter approval periods, investment security and predictability as well as a reduction in the tax burden) as a decisive factor for supporting sustainable business in the highly competitive textile and clothing industry.

Finishing machinery specialist Monforts will exhibit at the upcoming Febratex textile machinery exhibition taking place in Blumenau, Brazil, from August 20-23, along with Uniferro, its new regional partner.

This new alliance follows the retirement of Herbert Erdmann of the service agency Euro Texteis, who has worked with Monforts over more than 30 years to secure a leading position in the region for Montex stenter dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges and associated finishing technology.

With offices in Sao Paulo and Ceara and sub-agents across Brazil, Uniferro has been active in the textile industry for over 50 years.

coaTTex
At Febratex, Monforts will introduce its latest coaTTex coating unit exclusively dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatile coater is suitable for both incorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts Montex stenter systems.

A wide range of coatings can be applied to fabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and black-out coating.

Denim hub
Brazil remains a buoyant hub for textile manufacturing with a particular stength in the denim dyeing and finishing sector and many Monforts Thermex hotflue dyeing systems are already operational in the region, reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® process.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics, especially denim, in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying process with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes.

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim fabrics industry, whether through the successful incorporation of new fibres, accommodating new fabric constructions or exploring the many options for how to treat them at the finishing stage, to gain a market advantage,” says says Monforts Regional Sales Manager Achim Gesser. “Our lines allow users to be extremely versatile and respond quickly to market demand, while also allowing very short production runs.”

Because finishing is a particularly energy-intensive part of the textile production chain, it is exactly where convincing results can be achieved, he adds, and Monforts has developed a wide range of energy-saving. These included a range of heat recovery systems, such as the Universal Energy Tower and the ECO Booster. Both can also be retrofitted to existing ranges to make production more resource-efficient and economical, yet without having to invest in a new machine.

“Energy costs tend to be high in Brazil and can account for up to 70% of production costs for our customers, so there is great demand for ways of saving money,” says Gesser. “Cutting energy usage also helps in terms of global warming and reducing carbon footprint, of course, so these latest technologies are a win-win for fabric finishers. As we look forward to a promising partnership with Uniferro in Brazil, we would like to extend our thanks and best wishes for the future to Herbert Erdmann for his hard work over the years.”

CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, announced the appointment of Alex Zucchi as its new president. Mr Zucchi was elected at the General Assembly held on 14 June 2024.

Mr Zucchi has been active in CEMATEX, having been involved in the ACIMIT delegation since 2015. He is the immediate past president of ACIMIT, and continues to be a staunch advocate of the sustainability cause, including promotion of the ACIMIT green label and the recycling of textile machinery. Currently, he is the managing director and partner of Ferraro, a manufacturer specialising in finishing machinery.

Following Mr Zucchi's election, the General Assembly expressed its gratitude to the outgoing president, Ernesto Maurer, who led the association with enthusiasm and professional competence for four years. Mr Maurer will continue to be involved in CEMATEX as its vice president.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will participate in the ITM 2024 International Textile Machinery Exhibition in Istanbul, Türkiye from 4th to 8th June 2024 with a full product lineup.

WHOLEGARMENT® knitting has recently gained heavy interest from the apparel industry due to the shrinking workforce of skilled sewing and linking personnel, as well as for its sustainable benefits by requiring the minimum amount of material to produce one item at a time. SHIMA SEIKI intends to gain even more interest with its new SWG-XR® flagship machine. SWG-XR® features the company's original SlideNeedle™on 4 needle beds for high quality production of WHOLEGARMENT® products using all needles, in addition to a re-designed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit before, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting and intarsia knitting. Setting new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SWG-XR® at ITM will be shown in 15L. The MACH2®XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine, also with original SlideNeedle™ on four needle beds, will be shown in 8L. Other WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines include the MACH2®VS V-bed machine for producing WHOLEGARMENT® items using every other needle, shown in 8 and 18 gauges, as well as the compact SWG®091N2 for producing smaller WHOLEGARMENT® items and accessories, to be shown in 10 gauge. An economical proposal in V-bed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting will also be introduced in the form of the N.SVR®183 machine in 24 gauge.

SHIMA SEIKI’s technology in computerized shaped knitting is represented by its N.SVR®122 computerized flat knitting machine in 14 gauge, and features such innovations as the R2CARRIAGE®, WideGauge® knitting, spring-type moveable sinkers, DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb. Also on display will be the SCG®122SN coarse gauge machine in 3 gauge. Automatic seamless glove knitting machines will also be present, including the SFG®20 21-gauge machine, and SFG®-I in 10 gauge.

On the software side, demonstrations will be performed on SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system and APEXFiz® subscription-based design software. Each provides comprehensive support throughout the production supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way the design evaluation process is improved with ultra-realistic simulation capability, whereby virtual samples replace physical sampling, consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. Digital prototyping using virtual samples on SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® help to digitally transform the fashion supply chain for realizing sustainable manufacturing. SHIMA KnitManager™ knit production management software will also be shown to demonstrate solutions for maximizing productivity through monitoring of machine status and production progress.

Monforts, which is celebrating its 140th anniversary this year, will exhibit a Montex stenter chamber with an integrated overhead heat recovery unit at the forthcoming ITM textile machinery exhibition in Istanbul from June 4-8.

The heat recovery unit on display at the stand of Monforts partner Neotek is just one of a range of energy saving options the company is now providing for both new and existing line installations.

Monforts Montex stenters and Thermex dyeing ranges are industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing many advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and savings.

coaTTex
At ITM, Monforts will also introduce its latest coaTTex coating unit, dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatile coaTTex is suitable for both incorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts lines, especially Montex stenter systems.

A wide range of coatings can be applied to fabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and coating, including black-out coating.

Central location
“In Turkey we are very strongly supported by our representative Neotek, our solution partner on the ground for service, installation and commissioning, providing specialised and rapid help to all of our customers,” says Monforts Area Sales Manager Thomas Paeffgen. “ITM is always one of the most important exhibitions for Monforts, for meeting customers not just from Turkey, but across the Middle East and Central Asia, as well as Bangladesh, India and Pakistan.

“Istanbul’s centralised position makes it accessible to the majority of the major textile manufacturing hubs and as we mark our 140th anniversary in 2024, having been founded back in 1884, the ITM show will provide us with the ideal opportunity to celebrate with colleagues and customers all together in one location.”