From the Sector

The German companies Brückner, Groz-Beckert, the Karl Mayer Group and Thies invite representatives of the Indian textile industry to a symposium with presentations and discussion panels in Surat, India, on October 11 and 12, 2023. The event will be held at the Marriott Hotel Surat and will focus on the current demand trend for warp knitted elastic fabrics.

The demand for warp knitted elastic fabrics has increased rapidly in the past two to three years. On the one hand, this offers the Indian textile industry new growth opportunities and the chance to establish itself in a leading position in the growing market. On the other hand, the turnaround also holds challenges as the production steps involved in manufacture of warp knitted elastic fabrics are strikingly different from the conventional methods.

In order to provide the Indian warp knitting industry with optimum support in this change, Brückner, Groz-Beckert, Karl Mayer and Thies are inviting participants to a specialist symposium on the subject of "Production of Warp Knitted Elastic Fabric". Industry experts, stakeholders and textile visionaries are invited to share their insights and experiences with the guests.

The aim of the symposium is to provide a platform where knowledge can be exchanged and cooperation intensified. The symposium offers a wide variety of technical presentations as well as best practice examples and showcases technologies and innovations in warp knitting technology.

Those interested in attending the symposium may contact Vinod Kumar (Brückner & Thies), Dipak Panhalkar (Groz-Beckert) or Apurva Jariwala (Karl Mayer) to register.

The project "A Dress For Venice" get on the Red Carpet at the Venice Film Festival to advocate for sustainability. September 7th, actress Margot Sikabonyi will wear a dress from the collection designed by conscious designer Tiziano Guardini, illustrated by artist Jacopo Ascari, and produced by Martina Vidal Venezia, with the following materials:

• Bemberg™: The innovative and biodegradable fiber from the Japanese company Asahi Kasei.
• Burano lace: Produced by the historic Martina Vidal Venezia for four generations.

"Returning to Venice and experiencing the emotions of this place and the artists who have enriched it is exhilarating," says Tiziano Guardini. "It's a work based on volumes, shapes, three-dimensionality, colours and materials research… from Mariano Fortuny to the Ottoman Empire's Turcherie."

Illustrator Ascari adds, "I started with a careful study of the works of Canaletto, Guardi and Bellotto, masterpieces of Eighteenth-Century Vedutismo. I portrayed new perspectives on the city's splendour, enhanced by Guardini's vibrant shapes and color choices."

On Thursday, September 7th, at 12:30, in the Veneto Region's room at the Hotel Excelsior on Lido, Elena Donazzan, Councilor for Education, Training, Employment, and Equal Opportunities, will present the project alongside its creators Laura Scarpa and Lorenzo Cinotti of Venezia da Vivere, designer Tiziano Guardini, artist Jacopo Ascari, and actress Margot Sikabonyi.

"We conceived A Dress For Venice for Homo Faber in 2019, to celebrate Venice's 1600 years of craftsmanship," explains Laura Scarpa. "This year, the research extends to sustainable innovation thanks to an international team of designers, artisans and companies," continues Lorenzo Cinotti.

The project reaffirms Venice's role as an international laboratory to reflect on the planet's future. "A Dress For Venice" is a limited-edition collection realized with the support of a network of companies identified by the Tavolo Veneto della Moda (Confartigianato, CNA, Confindustria, Confesercenti and Confcommercio of Veneto), the global platform C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy), the partnership of Camera Buyer Italia and the media partnership of The Italian Rêve.

The presentation of the collection to buyers will take place at the Marina Guidi showroom in mid-September, while it will have its dedicated exhibition on Friday, October 20th, during the Venice Fashion Week.

"A Dress for Venice" is endorsed by the Comune di Venezia, the Regione del Veneto, and Homo Faber - Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte, which promotes worldwide high craftsmanship and savoir-faire.

Partners in the project Infinity srl and Tessitura Grisotto, renowned Italian textile manufacturers who expertly craft Bemberg™ fiber into exquisite fabrics. Creazioni Digitali, a specialized company in sublimation digital printing, carries out the prints on Bemberg™ textiles with its unique project GreenDrop; with inks that reduces the water consumption.

Other partners include Marina Iremonger, Camera Buyer Italia, and the Tavolo Veneto della Moda, representing Confartigianato, CNA, Confindustria, Confcommercio, and Confesercenti.

From 16 – 18 August 2023, 1,022 exhibitors from 13 countries and regions will occupy four halls and 100,000 sqm gross at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai). This Autumn Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles will return to its regular format, as a comprehensive platform held separately from Messe Frankfurt’s other autumn textile fairs. Complementing the strong lineup of exhibitors over all three days, a varied selection of fringe events will communicate key insights, offer industry specific inspiration, and facilitate cross-sector exchanges for fairgoers.

Buyers from 66 countries and regions have already pre-registered for the show, while a range of international brands are preparing to showcase their latest innovations. Multiple exhibitors will gather according to origin, with three country and region pavilions a must-see for fairgoers seeking exotic home textiles:

• Belgium Pavilion: products on show include bedding fabrics and sets, curtains and curtain fabrics, sofa covers, upholstery, and much more. With the pavilion set to feature a number of Belgian brands, its highlighted exhibitors are Libeco and Love Home Fabrics.
• Taiwan (China) Pavilion: multiple Taiwanese exhibitors, including JWL Fabrics Co Ltd, Maxland Home Textile Industrial Co Ltd, and Vanttex International Co Ltd, will demonstrate specific examples of the varied applications of their home textiles.
• Türkiye Pavilion: organised by Uludag Textile Exporters’ Association (UTIB), the pavilion will showcase a range of curtains, upholstery fabrics, and other home textiles, from suppliers such as Aleran Tekstil Inşaat Gida Sanayi Ve Ticaret Ltd Şti, Küçükçalik Tekstil San Ve Tic A Ş and Weavers Tekstil San Ve Tic A Ş.

Beyond the pavilions, buyers can easily locate their desired home and contract textiles via conveniently placed product zones, covering categories such as curtain and curtain fabrics; sun protection and window shades; upholstery and sofa fabrics; furniture leather; bedding and editors; loungewear and bath; and rugs. Wide-ranging suppliers from China and beyond will showcase their various products, featuring international exhibitors such as Elastron – Leather & Fabrics, Morgan and PT Sinar Continental; and well-known domestic manufacturers including Hangzhou Aico Home Textile Co Ltd, Huatex International (Hangzhou) Co Ltd and Zhe Jiang Maya Fabric Co Ltd.

Fringe programme: keeping fairgoers up-to-date with range of industry developments
Business exchange at Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles will once again be supplemented by multiple concurrent events, for home textile players to learn more about the latest industry innovations, as well as upcoming design trends. These include:

• International Intertextile Trend Forum 2023–2024: held in the afternoon of day one, the event will be hosted by a prominent member of the ‘2023 – 2024 Intertextile International Lifestyle Trend’ trend committee, Mr Shen Lei, joined on the panel by multiple designers. They will discuss various impacts on designs, such as sustainability’s effect, the influence of emerging technologies, and international integration and localised expression.
• IKASAS Japanese Home Design Gallery and themed seminar: the leading Japanese furniture brand IKASAS will utilise a display area to illustrate its unique design philosophy, by showcasing innovative furniture products that predominantly align with contemporary trends. The company’s founder, Mr Akiyuki Sasaki, will delve deeper into his design views in a seminar held on the morning of day one.
• The New Power of Healthy Home Decoration Environment: a first-time collaboration with CRECC Full Decoration Council, the cross-sector conference in Hall 5.1 on day two will welcome keynote speakers from the real estate industry, to discuss topical insights at the intersection of realty and home textiles. The audience will come away with a widened scope of the different applications and demands of home textiles, and an ability to more accurately identify business opportunities within the property market.

adidas and Manchester United Football Club announce the extension of their partnership. Manchester United commenced a historic agreement with adidas at the start of the 2015/16 season, reuniting after 23 years.

The new deal increases the focus on the Manchester United women’s team since their reintroduction in 2018 – continuing Manchester United and adidas’ commitment to drive the women’s game forward.

Manchester United Chief Executive Officer, Richard Arnold said:  
“The relationship between Manchester United and adidas is one of the most iconic in world sport , forged through a shared commitment to style, flair and, most importantly, high performance.

“With its roots in the 1980s, our partnership has been reinvented over the past decade with some of the most innovative designs and technology in sportswear. We are now looking forward to refreshing this powerful partnership again through the remainder of this decade and into the 2030s.”  

Chief Executive Officer at adidas, Bjørn Gulden, said:  
“We are extremely proud to announce the extension of the contract with Manchester United. adidas and Manchester United are two of the most important brands in International Football and it is very natural for us to continue our cooperation. We will combine tradition and innovation to please both the players and the fans. 

• Sales up 1.9% year-on-year to €560.5 million with stable adjusted EBITDA of €88.0 million
• Strong business performance of the Graphite Solutions, Process Technology and Composite Solutions businesses
• Sales and earnings decline at Carbon Fibers due to weakness of wind market
• Impairment at Carbon Fibers of €44.7 million

Despite the increasingly difficult economic environment, SGL Carbon was able to increase sales in H1 2023 from €549.8 million in the previous year to €560.5 million. Adjusted EBITDA (EBITDApre) remained almost unchanged at €88.0 million (H1 2022: €87.9 million). The expected good business performance of the Graphite Solutions business unit and the better-than-expected sales and earnings development of Process Technology and Composite Solutions compensated the drop in demand in Carbon Fibers.

In particular, the Graphite Solutions (GS) business unit contributed to the stable development of the Company with a 15.3% increase in sales to €280.6 million (H1 2022: €243.4 million) and a 20.6% improvement in adjusted EBITDA to €65.1 million (H1 2022: €54.0 million). GS benefited especially from the high demand of the semiconductor industry. The semiconductor and LED market segment now accounts for around 45% of GS revenue (H1 2022: around 35%).

With a 30.9% increase in sales to €64.4 million (H1 2022: €49.2 million) and a significant rise in adjusted EBITDA from €4.1 million to €11.9 million, the business performance of Process Technology (PT) was significantly above the original planning. Composite Solutions (CS) also reported a higher-than-forecast sales increase of 14.4% to €79.6 million in H1 2023 (H1 2022: €69.6 million) and an improvement in adjusted EBITDA of 26.8% to €12.3 million (H1 2022: €9.7 million). By contrast, the business performance of the Carbon Fibers (CF) unit was not in line with expectations, with a 28.9% decline in sales to €125.1 million (H1 2022: €176.0 million) and a 78.4% drop in earnings to €6.1 million (H1 2022: €28.2 million).

An important market segment for the Carbon Fibers business unit is the wind industry. Demand for carbon fibers for the wind industry has declined sharply since the beginning of the year. According to current estimates, the expected recovery in demand in H2 2023 will not materialize. SGL Carbon expects customer demand from the wind industry to pick up in 2024.

As already announced in the ad hoc release of July 24, 2023, an impairment loss of €44.7 million was recognized on the assets of Carbon Fibers as of June 30, 2023.

Results situation
SGL Carbon's adjusted EBITDA (EBITDApre) remained almost stable in a half-year comparison at €88.0 million (H1 2022: €87.9 million). Due to the lack of demand from wind industry, CF's production capacity utilization decreased and idle capacity costs weighed on adjusted EBITDA. By contrast, higher margins from product mix and volume effects in the other three business units had a positive impact on adjusted EBITDA.

Non-recurring items and one-off effects not included in adjusted EBITDA totaled minus €46.9 million in the first half of 2023, of which €44.7 million resulted from an impairment loss in the CF business unit.

In addition to the above-mentioned effects and nearly unchanged depreciation and amortization of €29.1 million (H1 2022: €28.9 million), the decline in EBIT resulted in particular from the impairment loss already described (€44.7 million). After €69.6 million in H1 2022, EBIT amounted to €12.0 million in the reporting period.

Taking into account the slightly improved financial result of minus €15.8 million (H1 2022: minus €16.6 million), consolidated net income for the first six months of the current financial year amounted to minus €10.0 million, compared to €48.8 million in the first half of the previous year.

Net financial debt and equity
To complete its refinancing, SGL Carbon issued convertible bonds with a volume of €118.7 million in June 2023 and drew an existing term loan facility of €75 million in July 2023, which was used together with cash of the Company on July 28, 2023 to repay the corporate bond (outstanding as of June 30, 2023: €237.4 million). Accordingly, cash and cash equivalents increased to €310.5 million as of June 30, 2023 (€227.3 million as of December 31, 2022) and financial debt temporarily increased to €480.4 million (€398.1 million as of December 31, 2022). Net financial debt remained nearly unchanged at €169.9 million as of June 30, 2023 (Dec. 31, 2022: € 170.8 million).

Despite the impairment loss of €44.7 million in Carbon Fibers, shareholders' equity amounted to €565.2 million as of June 30, 2023, only slightly lower than at the end of 2022 (Dec. 31, 2022: €569.3 million). This corresponds to an equity ratio of 36.1% (Dec. 31, 2022: 38.5%).

On the occasion of the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships, the Union Cycliste Internationale chose Santini to make the bibs from recyclable materials. The UCI's partner brought together a pool of companies, all in the Bergamo area (Italy): RadiciGroup, Sitip, EFI Reggiani and Acerbis.

In 2022, the Union Cycliste Internationale released the UCI Climate Action Charter, which lays out an action plan to advance the environmental sustainability of the sport with a specific principle to reduce waste and accelerate the transition to a circular economy. This year, the UCI Cycling World Championships, which will be held from 3 to 13 August, are bringing together most of the cycling disciplines in a single location: Glasgow and across Scotland.

To mark the occasion, the UCI turned to its Official Partner, Santini, to make the bibs that the staff (judges, volunteers, commissaires etc.) and accredited photographers wear throughout the event. The bibs are "eco-designed", which means they are specifically created to have a second life after use. Once the event is over, the bibs could be collected and sent to RadiciGroup and transformed into new material, to be then processed by Acerbis to create X-Elite handguards for mountain bikes. This project is a concrete example of the circular economy at work, allowing 100% of the materials used to be recovered.

To optimise the production cycle of the bibs for the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships, the products must be eco-friendly from the very first phase. The fabrics were therefore made from Italian nylon yarn produced by RadiciGroup. The choice of nylon – an infinitely recyclable thermoplastic material – is intertwined with UCI's sustainability goals for "limited-use" garments: RadiciGroup was able to channel its know-how and expertise in the field of chemistry to create "circular" bibs, working alongside the other partners. As the innovative yarn selected by RadiciGroup allows for easy and high-quality printing, the fabric is also customisable. The yarn is then provided to Sitip to create the "ARAS NG" warp-knitted fabric (95 g/100 m2): a recyclable single-fibre material made from 100% polyamide. The resulting fabric is the first nylon of its kind, designed to meet the transfer printing needs of the third project partner, EFI Reggiani, as well as the recyclability standards requested by RadiciGroup. The choice of fabric was born from extensive applied research, in which EFI Reggiani tested a wide range of fabrics to find the best colour results and the best resistance to rubbing and perspiration, which is vital for the bibs' intended use. In addition to using the new GOTS-certified EFI Reggiani IRIS Plus water-based inks, EFI Reggiani opted for a printing solution on transfer paper that does not consume water and requires a minimal amount of energy per square metre. Finally, the white fabric from Sitip and the transfer paper printed by EFI Reggiani arrived at Santini, who were responsible for transferring all the graphics for the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships bibs from the paper onto the fabric. Santini also took care to assemble the garments using only thread and components made from nylon or chemically similar materials, allowing the bibs to enter the recycling process at the end of their lives without any further processing.                   

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg), a global supplier of high-performance technical textiles has begun operating a new 3D entangled mat production line in Changzhou (China). It enables Freudenberg to supply customers in the APAC region with Enka®Solutions made in China for building, industrial and civil engineering applications. Freudenberg now is also able to serve customers in diverse technical markets with finished and semi-finished products.

This investment in China will significantly increase Enka®Solutions production capacity and will play a fundamental role in the development of Enka business with customers in the APAC region. Freudenberg inaugurated the new line in Changzhou at an opening ceremony on July 13th.

The new production line in Changzhou complements the manufacturing operations in Obernburg (Germany) and Asheville (North Carolina, USA). With a global manufacturing presence on the three different continents Europe, Asia and America, Freudenberg can now serve markets locally and deliver Enka®Solutions products faster and efficiently. This will not only help to better meet customer needs, but also reducing the company's environmental footprint by increasing local production.

In the first half of 2023, Rieter recorded a significant increase in sales of 22.2% to CHF 758.2 million, despite some cancellations or postponements of deliveries as a result of the earthquake in Türkiye. Cyclical market downturns in the individual market segments, which were already apparent in the second half of 2022, led to an order intake of CHF 325.0 million (-62.6%) in the reporting period, lower than in the corresponding period of the previous year.

Order intake in almost all regions was characterized by the reluctance to invest in new machines. Only in China did order intake increase due to investments by spinning mills in improving their local competitiveness. In addition, some customers held back pending investment decisions and waited for the innovations presented at ITMA in Milan in June 2023. At the same time, demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts declined due to the global market downturn.

On June 30, 2023, the company had a high order backlog of around CHF 1 100 million (June 30, 2022: around CHF 2 100 million). This therefore extends into the year 2024. As in the previous year, cancellations in the reporting period were around 5% of the order backlog, also impacted by the effects of the severe earthquake in Türkiye.

In the first half of 2023, Rieter posted a profit of CHF 25.2 million at the EBIT level, with an EBIT margin of 3.3% (first half of 2022: loss of CHF -10.2 million) and a net profit of CHF 13.3 million (first half of 2022: loss of CHF -25.2 million).

“Next Level” performance program planned
The challenging market situation over the past two years was marked by severe disruptions in the global supply chain in conjunction with rising material, energy, labor, and production costs. The current global demand for textile products remains at a low level. To increase long-term value for customers, employees, and shareholders, Rieter, as technology leader, is planning a performance program called “Next Level”. The goal of the program is to strengthen sales excellence, sharpen customer focus, improve cost efficiency in production and optimize fixed cost structures. The one-time cost of the program is anticipated to be around CHF 45 to 50 million, which will have an impact on the second half of 2023. Most of the program initiatives will be implemented before the end of 2023 with a view to achieving an expected impact from as early as 2024. With these measures Rieter is aiming to reduce operating costs by some CHF 80 million per year.

The program includes provisions for the net reduction of around 300 positions throughout the Group in relation to overhead functions. The possibility of further market- and volume-related adjustments in the order of 400 to 600 positions cannot be excluded. At the end of June 2023, Rieter had a global workforce of 5 555 employees.

Outlook
Given the economic situation and the ongoing cyclical market weakness, Rieter continues to expect below-average demand for new equipment in the coming months. A revival is not expected until the fourth quarter of 2023 at the earliest. Rieter also believes that demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts will not recover until later in 2023.

For the full year 2023, Rieter expects an EBIT margin of around 5 to 7% (including positive special effects of less than 2%) and sales at the previous year’s level of around CHF 1.5 billion.

Ada Hefetz, an Israel-based wedding dress designer, has introduced a new attention-grabbing collection with intricate, showstopping elements produced using Stratasys’ advanced direct-to-textile 3D printing technology. Showcased recently at Milan Design Week, the three unique dresses are based on Hefetz’s Flower of Life theme and were produced using Stratasys’ 3DFashion™ technology as part of her latest series celebrating matrimonial union, the circle of life, and design.

Known for designing haute couture bridal dresses combining vintage style and classic modern chic, Ada Hefetz is renowned for constantly pushing the boundaries of design. This is her first completed project using 3D printing.

The wedding dresses feature complex geometrical shapes, depicting the ‘Flower of Life’, a sacred geometry dating back to ancient Egypt. The intricate pattern is composed of overlapping circles that intersect to form flowers, which Ada Hefetz has combined with her design of a lily to symbolize the union between two individuals and the circle of life. The inspiring design uses Stratasys’ translucent VeroVivid™ resin material with Stratasys’ J850™ TechStyle™ 3D printer, which can be printed in over 500,000 unique colors with varying levels of flexibility, simulating different textures and finishes.

Ada Hefetz’s Flower of Life-themed 3D printed wedding dresses are currently on display at Milan’s D-House Urban Laboratory, which is owned and managed by Dyloan, the leading Italian manufacturer serving the high-end fashion sector.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., together with its Brazilian representative BRASTEMA TECNOLOGIA TÊXTIL LTDA., will host the Tech Fashion shows, a series of private exhibitions held at two locations in Brazil in July and August. The exhibitions will be a showcase for the company’s latest computerized flat knitting technology, presented through fashion shows, machine exhibits and the latest knit samples featured at ITMA 2023. The event is organized by the Fashion Committee of Fitemavest, consultants to Brazil's fashion market, and will feature presentations by CS DESIGN STUDIO designer Cecilia Seibel.

Technological displays include a full lineup of SHIMA SEIKI flat knitting machines, ranging from the MACH2XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine to N.SVR122 computerized shaping machine, as well as the SFG-I fully automated glove knitting machine. Exhibited machines vary between locations. Details are given below under ‘Exhibited Technology.’

The potential of each of these knitting machines are maximized in combination with the SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system and APEXFiz® design software. At the core of the company’s "Total Fashion System" concept, SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® provide comprehensive support throughout the apparel supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is their capability to improve on the design and evaluation process with virtual sampling. Ultra-realistic simulation capability on SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® allows virtual sampling to minimize the amount of time, cost and material spent during the sample-making process

The fashion show will feature the newest creations in WHOLEGARMENT® and other knitwear.