From the Sector

Protective masks for Europe
With FleeceforEurope and Lindenpartner, Düsseldorf-based Kloepfel Group purchasing consultancy and Berlin-based industrial consultancy Bechinger & Heymann Holding plan to manufacture and distribute up to 50 million protection class FFP1 through FFP3 respiratory masks a month exclusively for the European market from the beginning of fall. And the primary focus will be on quality.
With protective masks – including those used in operating rooms – this quality is provided above all by  virus-absorbing nonwovens. And these will be manufactured by ‘FleeceforEurope’ using an Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown system.
But masks effectively protecting against infections can only be guaranteed with the right quality. A crucial factor in this is the inside of the mask. Because the nonwoven used in protection class FFP1 through FFP3 respiratory masks plays a decisive role.
Here, the meltblown technology from Oerlikon Nonwoven will be deployed. In a special, patented process, the fibers laid into a nonwoven fabric during manufacture are subsequently electrostatically-charged, before the material is further processed downstream.

European market for protective masks with a promising future
Those responsible at Oerlikon Nonwoven and FleeceforEurope, which will primarily focus on producing high-end nonwovens, and Lindenpartner, which will manufacture and distribute the protective masks, are certain of one thing: the market for protective masks has a very promising long-term future in Europe.
What has been commonplace in Asia for many years now will also become normal in Europe. People will be increasingly wearing face masks when venturing out, in order to better protect themselves against health risks such as the current pandemic and also against increasing environmental pollution in the form of  fine particles and exhaust fumes in the future. A

Medical face masks from a vending machine
Mask producer Lindenpartner has already secured supplies of nonwovens and will be producing face masks for the European healthcare sector over the coming weeks. To fight the coronavirus pandemic, Lindenpartner is planning to install 100 self-service face mask vending machines in Germany over the next four weeks, positioning them in publicly-accessible places such as shopping centers and airports, for example.

• The “Newcomer Award” will still be presented at the 8th Convention & Fair for Hightech Textiles
• Chemnitz organisers considering forward-looking forums using the “mtex+” brand

The 8th mtex+ Convention & Fair for Hightech Textiles, which was scheduled to be held on 9-10 June 2020, will not take place because of the corona crisis. “We’ve made this decision following in-depth consultations with the members of the advisory board who are working in the textile sector; they were also opposed to moving the date to the autumn because of the unforeseeable consequences arising from the crisis,” says  André Rehn, Head of Sales for Trade Fairs & Congresses at the organiser, C³ GmbH, Chemnitz.

“Cancelling the event is a particularly severe blow for us, as the “mtex+” was supposed to be held with a modernised concept and a very attractive programme at our new Carlowitz Congresscenter at the heart of Chemnitz for the first time. The considerable economic loss associated with this is naturally painful for us too. However, we will be presenting our “mtex+” “Newcomer Award” to the prize-winners at the next possible, suitable opportunity. 15 students and graduates from all over Germany have taken part in the young people’s competition with creative ideas for recycling, upcycling and downcycling textiles. We’re also now considering special events, which could operate using our well-known “mtex+” brand in future. Sustainability in the textile value-added chain as well as health and protective textiles made by the domestic market are obvious, forward-looking topics in this field.”

New tissue log saw allows operators to track critical component lifecycles

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC), part of Barry-Wehmiller, has announced that the Xcut saw, its newest tissue log saw, now has the ability to use predictive maintenance to reduce unplanned downtime.

With this new capability, operators will be able to track the lifecycles of critical components and monitor the performance of others. The saw will provide notifications regarding upcoming maintenance requirements before they become critical issues, allowing operators to have replacement parts ready when the time comes.

The Xcut saw will monitor and collect information from servo motor feedback, vibration sensors and other devices, and alert operators when the machine needs maintenance. For example, if an axis becomes more difficult to turn or experiences abnormal vibrations, the predictive maintenance system will provide an alert that the gearbox may need to be replaced.

This multifaceted approach to predictive maintenance allows operators to tackle multiple maintenance tasks at the same time, which reduces downtime and gets the machine back into production more quickly.

Anglo Recycling Technology is on course to deliver no less than a million of its special nonwoven mats for hydroponically growing herbs to a major customer in the Middle East this year. The Growfelt-branded products arose from the discovery back in the late 1990s by Anglo Recycling’s owner Simon Macaulay, that the Sussex-based retail supplier of salads, Van Heineken Brothers (now Vitacress), used nonwoven felts on which to grow its cress.

“I drove down to see the company’s production manager, Chris Moncrieff and discovered they were indeed growing cress on felts, but they were made from virgin materials and he liked the idea of maybe using a blend of virgin fiber offcuts of cotton, wool, and polypropylene,” he explains. “That’s how Growfelt was born. For the first six years, we supplied exclusively to Vitacress and in return, they helped us to bring our factory up to food-grade standard and to set in place a testing regime for Salmonella E-Coli coliforms and listeria.”

In recent years, however, Anglo Recycling, which is based in Whitworth, near Rochdale in the UK, has significantly broadened its customer base. It now offers a core of three growing media products to meet the differing needs of customers across Europe, the Middle East, and the Far East, whether for retail presentation and appearance or for water holding.

Diverging development in the two business units impact fiscal year 2019 of SGL Carbon – Group guidance for 2020 confirmed

• Consolidated sales revenues in fiscal year 2019 up by 4 percent to around 1.1 billion euros
• Consolidated recurring EBIT down by 25 percent to 48 million euros; record results of graphite specialities business did not fully compensate for the weak development in the carbon fiber business
• Composites – Fibers & Materials (CFM): Cyclical und structural weaknesses impact the result of the market segments Wind Energy, Textile Fibers and Industrial Applications, which have limited strategic significance in the medium term
• Graphite Materials & Systems (GMS): Sales and earnings on record level due to strong growth in the market segments Semiconductors and Automotive
• Non-cash impairment charge of around 75 million euros was recorded at CFM in the third quarter of 2019
• Free cash flow significantly improved
• Issue of a new corporate bond and early redemption of the 2015/2020 convertible bond has significantly improved the maturity profile
• SGL Carbon confirms guidance for fiscal year 2020: sales expected slightly below previous year; recurring EBIT approximately 10 to 15 percent below previous year level
• Dr. Michael Majerus, Spokesman of the Board of Management of SGL Carbon: “The financial development of the fiscal year 2019 conceals the fact that our strategic orientation is correct. This is evident from our growth and the increasing number of contracts and projects we acquired in our strategic core markets. Main drivers are the topics of sustainable mobility and energy as well as digitization. Therefore, we expect that we can grow our consolidated revenue by a mid to high single-digit percentage per year on average between 2020 and 2024.“

The fiscal year 2019 developed very differently in the two business units of SGL Carbon. The record results in the graphite specialities business could not fully compensate for the weak development in the market segments Wind Energy, Textile Fibers and Industrial Applications in the carbon fiber business. Group sales grew by 4 percent to 1.1 billion euros. Recurring Group EBIT declined by 25 percent to 48 million euros. Due to the ongoing weakness in the market segments Textile Fibers and Industrial Applications the business unit CFM recorded a non-cash impairment loss of 75 million euros in the third quarter of 2019. With minus 90 (prior year: plus 41) million euros, consolidated Group result declined significantly compared to last year’s good results. The Group confirms its guidance for 2020 published in October 2019.

Group sales are expected to decline slightly compared to the prior-year level, whereas Group recurring EBIT is expected to reach a result around 10 to 15 percent below the prior-year level. Consolidated net result of the Group in 2020 should strongly improve compared to prior-year level to a low double-digit loss.

• Order intake up 7% on previous year; orders amounting to CHF 401.6 million booked in fourth-quarter 2019 (4th quarter 2018: CHF 119.0 million)
• As expected, sales significantly down on previous year, falling by 29% to CHF 760 million
• EBIT margin of 11 .2% and net profit of 6.9% of sales, non - recurring profit contribution from sale of real estate in Ingolstadt (Germany)
• Proposed dividend of CHF 4. 5 0 per share

In financial year 2019, Rieter recorded an order intake of CHF 926.1 million, which was 7% up on the prior-year period (2018: CHF 868.8 million). This development is attributable to a strong fourth quarter, in which Rieter booked orders totaling CHF 401.6 million (4th quarter 2018: CHF 119.0 million). At the end of 2019, the company had an order backlog of about CHF 500 million (December 31, 2018: about CHF 325 million).

In 2019, Rieter Group sales amounted to CHF 760.0 million (2018: CHF 1 075.2 million), which corresponds to a decrease of 29% compared to the previous year.

EBIT Margin, Net Profit and Free Cash Flow

Rieter generated an EBIT margin of 11.2% or CHF 84.9 million (2018: 4.0% or CHF 43.2 million). This includes the non - recurring profit from the sale of real estate in Ingolstadt in the amount of CHF 94.5 million. As a result of the capacity adjustment and cost reduction measures, the number of employees decreased by 11% to 4 591 (December 31, 2018: 5 134).

Net profit rose to CHF 52.4 million (6.9% of sales) and thus was significantly higher than in the previous year (2018: CHF 32.0 million or 3.0% of sales). The contribution from the sale of real estate in Ingolstadt had an impact of CHF 67.2 million (EUR 61.6 million) at the net profit level. Free cash flow in 2019 was CHF 42.3 million (2018: CHF 63.6 million). Net liquidity rose to CHF 162.1 million (December 31, 2018: CHF 150.2 million ). The equity ratio as of December 31, 2019, was 47.8% (prior-year balance sheet date: 44.6%).

• Investment of Rp. 15 trillion (USD1,1 billion) in facility
• Supports development of national textile industry and ‘Making Indonesia 4.0’ roadmap

The President of Indonesia, Joko Widodo, today inaugurated Indonesia's largest integrated viscose rayon production facility, injecting a boost for the country’s textile sector and the Indonesian Government’s industrial 4.0 development strategy.

The new Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) facility is located in the same production complex as APRIL Group in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau province, Sumatra. This co-location allows integrated operations where renewable plantation pulp supply from APRIL feeds directly to APR for viscose rayon production. The new operation represents a total investment of approximately Rp.15 trillion (USD1.1 billion).

The APR facility has an annual production capacity of 240,000 tons. The inauguration ceremony included the signing of a plaque by President Widodo and the symbolic sealing by the President of an export container with 10,190 tons of viscose rayon fibre for shipment to Turkey, one of APR’s key export markets, and another 12,000 tons to Central Java.

The ceremony was also graced by the Minister of Industry, Agus Gumiwang Kartasasmita, the Minister of Trade Agus Suparmanto, the Governor of Riau, Syamsuar, RGE Founder and Chairman Sukanto Tanoto, and Anderson Tanoto, Director, RGE.

Speaking at the inauguration, President Widodo welcomed APR's investment in the development of the national textile industry. The role of the private sector was influential in driving economic growth, alongside the stimulus provided by the Government, he said. “Our garment industry should be greater than Vietnam. We already have our own raw materials here, such as viscose rayon, to support the industry,” he said.

Economic Contribution
APR’s business aligns with President Jokowi's vision to encourage more value-added investment in the nation and the strengthening of the national textile and textile product (TPT) industry, as set out in the Making Indonesia 4.0 Road map. In addition, the production of viscose rayon will reduce dependence on the import of textile raw materials, particularly cotton, to meet domestic demand.

Agus Gumiwang Kartasasmita, Minister for Industry, said: “By optimising the availability and use of raw materials originating from Indonesia, we can boost the performance of our textile sector. This is just one of several steps we are taking to continue to improve the performance and competitiveness of the labour-intensive industry.”

Basrie Kamba, Director APR, said: “The presence of APR will have a positive impact on employment and business opportunities for small and medium-sized businesses in the upstream and downstream sectors of the textiles and textile products industry. We are honoured and grateful to President Jokowi for inaugurating our new facility”.

In addition to Turkey, APR’s products are exported to 14 other countries including key textile centres such as Pakistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Brazil, and various parts of Europe. The products also support an expanding Indonesia fashion industry.

It is estimated that APR may generate foreign exchange revenues exceeding Rp1.77 trillion (USD130 million) annually, and reduce dependence on imported raw materials by about Rp2.01 trillion (USD149 million) annually.

Sustainable Production
APR produces sustainable viscose rayon fiber from renewable, traceable and biodegradable raw materials. The company’s raw materials are supplied by APRIL Group, which is recognised as a responsible pulp producer through national (Timber Legality Verification System) and international (Program for the Endorsement of Forest Certification/PEFC) certifications.

APR is the first viscose rayon manufacturer in Indonesia to receive the internationally recognised STeP certification from OEKO-TEX ®, an independent Swiss-based certification organisation, for the responsible manufacturing of viscose staple fibre.

APR has launched the ‘Everything Indonesia’ campaign to promote the sustainable sourcing and production of fashion from Indonesia. The aim is to support Indonesia’s resurgence as a global centre for textile manufacturing, and catalyse home-grown fashion design and creativity.

At this year’s trade fair „SIMAC Tanning Tech“, PFAFF Industrial, together with DÜRKOPP ADLER and the regional agency DAP ITALIA, will present the latest solutions for shoe and leather processing. The fair will take place in Milan from 19th to 21st of February 2020. The joint booth is located in Hall 14, No. C09.

PFAFF News and Highlights:

PFAFF 3806
New integrated workplace for closing rub-down seams, such as heel-, front- and side seams on street shoes, slippers and leg boots. The PFAFF 3806 is equipped with two-thread chainstitch high-speed seamer head PFAFF 5487 with drop feed and variable top feed, high lift and adjustable top feed pressure, which ensures consistently high quality. Reinforcing tapes, which may be applied from top impart greater durability to the seams and prevent fine leathers from being pulled out of shape. Automatic control sequences (via parameter or photocell) reduce the manual handling and increase the process reliability and output.

PFAFF 1591
On the fair PFAFF INDUSTRIAL will show its electronic single-needle shoe post-bed machine with touch-control panel, new thread trimmer for short thread ends (< 5 mm) and new programmable thread tension. The key benefit of “programmable thread tension” is that suitable thread tensions can be applied for different material thicknesses and/or for different seam sequences (as these can be programmed on electronic machines). The tensions can be accessed and/or set via a knee switch or stitch counting. Manual setting of the thread tension, as is common with current shoe machines, is no longer necessary with the programmed thread tension.

PFAFF 8303i
The ot-air taping machine for welding continuous seams on water-resistant, waterproof and breathable materials will be exhibited as “shoe version” with very small/slim post from back. Effortlessly shoe uppers with small radii can be taped. The slim post and the differential feed (via two separate drive motors for the top and bottom feed roller) ensures absolute neat seams and a requested fullness und shaped parts.
 

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

• Sales were significantly down on the previous year, falling by 29% to CHF 760 million
• EBIT margin of around 11% and net profit of around 7% of sales anticipated, non-recurring profit contribution from sale of real estate in Ingolstadt (Germany)
• Order intake up 7% on previous year; order intake amounting to CHF 401.6 million booked in fourth quarter 2019 (4th quarter 2018: CHF 119.0 million)
• First half of 2020 expected to be significantly lower than previous year in terms of sales and earnings
• Further capacity adjustment measures introduced
• Start of construction of Rieter CAMPUS expected during 2020, subject to granting of building permit

The Rieter Group closed the 2019 financial year, as expected, with considerably lower sales than in the previous year. According to the first, unaudited figures, total sales of CHF 760.0 million were achieved, which is 29% down on the previous year (2018: CHF 1 075.2 million). At CHF 926.1 million, order intake was 7% higher than in the prior year period (2018: CHF 868.8 million). Rieter will publish the full annual financial statements and the 2019 Annual Report on March 10, 2020.