From the Sector

Finishing machinery specialist Monforts will exhibit at the upcoming Febratex textile machinery exhibition taking place in Blumenau, Brazil, from August 20-23, along with Uniferro, its new regional partner.

This new alliance follows the retirement of Herbert Erdmann of the service agency Euro Texteis, who has worked with Monforts over more than 30 years to secure a leading position in the region for Montex stenter dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges and associated finishing technology.

With offices in Sao Paulo and Ceara and sub-agents across Brazil, Uniferro has been active in the textile industry for over 50 years.

coaTTex
At Febratex, Monforts will introduce its latest coaTTex coating unit exclusively dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatile coater is suitable for both incorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts Montex stenter systems.

A wide range of coatings can be applied to fabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and black-out coating.

Denim hub
Brazil remains a buoyant hub for textile manufacturing with a particular stength in the denim dyeing and finishing sector and many Monforts Thermex hotflue dyeing systems are already operational in the region, reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® process.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics, especially denim, in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying process with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes.

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim fabrics industry, whether through the successful incorporation of new fibres, accommodating new fabric constructions or exploring the many options for how to treat them at the finishing stage, to gain a market advantage,” says says Monforts Regional Sales Manager Achim Gesser. “Our lines allow users to be extremely versatile and respond quickly to market demand, while also allowing very short production runs.”

Because finishing is a particularly energy-intensive part of the textile production chain, it is exactly where convincing results can be achieved, he adds, and Monforts has developed a wide range of energy-saving. These included a range of heat recovery systems, such as the Universal Energy Tower and the ECO Booster. Both can also be retrofitted to existing ranges to make production more resource-efficient and economical, yet without having to invest in a new machine.

“Energy costs tend to be high in Brazil and can account for up to 70% of production costs for our customers, so there is great demand for ways of saving money,” says Gesser. “Cutting energy usage also helps in terms of global warming and reducing carbon footprint, of course, so these latest technologies are a win-win for fabric finishers. As we look forward to a promising partnership with Uniferro in Brazil, we would like to extend our thanks and best wishes for the future to Herbert Erdmann for his hard work over the years.”

The Circular Valley Convention is a new trade fair format organised by Messe Düsseldorf in cooperation with the non-profit Circular Valley Foundation and with scientific support from the renowned Fraunhofer Institute for Environmental, Safety, and Energy Technology called UMSICHT.

The convention looks at the circular economy from a holistic perspective: across industries and materials – and all phases of the circular economy, from smart circular design to the reuse and further utilisation of products.

As a central global platform for the circular economy, it brings together decision-makers and experts from business, academia, politics, and society in one place. Under the motto "Uniting Industries for a Circular Tomorrow", it promotes their networking in order to present and jointly develop circular solutions and processes and drive forward the transformation towards a circular economy.

Messe Düsseldorf is contributing its many years of expertise to the Circular Valley Convention stemming from a wide range of trade fairs such as K, interpack and drupa, which are closely related to the circular economy. The non-profit Circular Valley Foundation, the cooperation partner of the convention, has a comprehensive understanding of the circular economy and a large network. The scientific support provided by the Fraunhofer Institute for Environmental, Safety, and Energy Technology UMSICHT and the associated expertise round off the extensive professional support.

The Circular Valley Convention covers all phases of the circular economy: from the use of renewable raw materials to product design, manufacturing, logistics, and operations all the way through to collection, sorting, and recycling, featuring solutions for different material classes and value chains. The convention combines applied research and practice and is a content hub for top decision-makers and experts. With the guiding theme "Enabling Circular Economy", the focus is on three central topics that enable the transformation towards a circular economy:

• Enabling Value Chains: the implementation of efficient, sustainable, and cross-industry circular solution strategies to maximise the use of resources and make business models fit for the future.
• Enabling Technologies: the transfer of circular competencies such as redesign, refurbish, remanufacture & recycle. The goal is to optimise products and processes using technologies that comply with the principles of the circular economy.
• Enabling Materials: the promotion of the efficient use and recycling of various materials, aiming for the extension of product lifespans and the integration of cross-material circular strategies for the sustainable use of resources.

the Circular Valley Convention offers a three-part event format consisting of a conference, an expo, and a networking event on the evening of 12 March 2024. Over 100 high-calibre speakers are scheduled to attend the conference. More than 130 exhibitors and partners are expected to attend the expo, the marketplace for future-oriented circular solutions, which offers insights into new trends, innovations, and best practice examples.

The first installations of the Trützschler Card TC 30i and the Trützschler Integrated Draw Frame IDF 3 are now complete – and the first customers have finished rigorous testing in direct spinning applications.

The Italian company Marchi & Fildi, headquartered in Biella, was one of the first to test the new IDF 3. The company specializes in producing pure and blended yarns made from natural or man-made fibers for flat knitting, circular knitting and weaving. Its products are used for fashion, furnishings and technical applications worldwide. It also places a strong focus on reducing its environmental impact.

Marchi & Fildi’s first trials were carried out with different fiber blends. This included a blend of 70 % soft waste cotton and 30 % polyester as the raw material for rotor direct spinning, with a yarn count in a range of Ne 8 to Ne 12 and Ne 30.
Later tests involved fiber blends of 50 % PET and 50 % recycled cotton from hard textile waste for rotor direct spinning with a yarn count of Ne 30. Experts at Marchi & Fildi stated that this material blend is typically very challenging. Processing secondary fibers made from hard textile waste requires very high competence in yarn production, which Marchi & Fildi impressively demonstrates. It also requires advanced technologies. This is due to technological challenges such as significantly lower fiber length. Trützschler’s IDF technology has a special drafting zone geometry that ensures reliable fiber guidance and controls floating fibers. It generates lower drafts than a conventional draw frame passage and avoids the risk of false drafts and count variations.

Decades of experience with the IDF technology have demonstrated that the higher the short fiber content, the better the result with IDF compared to conventional two draw frame passages. In combination with the TC 30Ri, a variant of TC 30i that has been specifically equipped and configured for processing recycled fibers, the IDF 3 delivers maximum possible quality for the production of sustainable yarns.

Overall, the company’s results showed a 75 % increase in productivity over the previous card model and a 14 % reduction in energy consumption at higher production rates. Combining the TC 30Ri and IDF 3 also enabled Marchi & Fildi to skip the drawing stage from its process, which boosts quality while saving resources and cutting costs.

Circ^®, a US-based textile-to-textile recycling innovator, announced the launch of Circ^®-Ready, an exclusive community of global supply-chain partners who have demonstrated their ability to make high-quality, better-for-the-planet solutions for fashion brands using Circ materials. The inaugural Circ-Ready partners include AGI Denim, Foshan Chicley Textile Co., Ltd., Giotex, Marubeni Corporation, MAS Holdings, PYRATEX®, Selenis, SHINJINTEX, Soorty Denimkind, Tainan Spinning Co., Ltd., and Taiwan Textile Research Institute (TTRI).

The Circ-Ready community is a selected group of partners who have a proven positive track record and commitment to working with Circ recycled products and have been individually evaluated for industry success. Circ-Ready partners work alongside the Circ team of experts to adequately test and utilize Circ fibers, exceeding quality standards from end to end. To promote transparency and ensure the integrity of Circ products, each Circ-Ready partner provides a commitment to relevant best-in-class certifications for recycled products.

Consisting of processors, manufacturers, and other vital industry players across tiers 1-4, each Circ-Ready partner has undergone a testing process to replace virgin inputs with Circ’s products, proving the ability to utilize Circ products in their existing operations and produce premium materials as a result. Being a member of the Circ-Ready community provides partners the opportunity to work with pilot-stage Circ products, receive ongoing support from Circ’s technical experts, and be among the first recommended by Circ when brands and partners seek to utilize Circ material.

Circ is a leader in blended textile-to-textile recycling, a known challenge for the industry. Each year, tens of millions of tons of polycotton textile waste is landfilled or burned because existing recycling solutions cannot separate the plastic from the natural fiber and recover both materials. Circ’s innovative recycling technology is the only platform to successfully separate polycotton blended textile waste and recover both cellulosic and synthetic fibers. Circ’s primary fiber outputs are regenerated Circ Lyocell and Circ Polyester from textile waste.

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are coordinating the research project, which is funded as part of the European Union's Horizon Europe research and innovation program. The aim of BioFibreLoop is to develop recyclable outdoor and work clothing made from renewable bio-based materials. The kick-off event took place in Denkendorf on June 26 and 27, 2024.

The textile industry is facing two challenges: on the one hand, production must become more sustainable and environmentally friendly and, on the other, consumers are expecting more and more smart functions from clothing.

In addition, the production of functional textiles often involves the use of chemicals that are harmful to the environment and health and make subsequent recycling more difficult.

Intelligent innovations must therefore ensure that harmful chemicals are replaced, water is saved and more durable, recyclable bio-based materials are used, thereby reducing the usually considerable carbon footprint of textile products. Digitalized processes are intended to ensure greater efficiency and a closed cycle.

For example, the BioFibreLoop project uses laser technology to imitate natural structures in order to produce garments with water and oil-repellent, self-cleaning and antibacterial properties. At the end result of the research work will be affordable, resource and environmentally friendly, yet high-performance and durable fibers and textiles made from renewable sources such as lignin, cellulose and polylactic acid will be available. All processes are aimed at a circular economy with comprehensive recycling and virtually waste-free functionalization based on nature's example. In this way, greenhouse gas emissions could be reduced by 20 percent by 2035.

The technology for the functionalization and recycling of bio-based materials is being developed in three industrial demonstration projects in Austria, the Czech Republic and Germany. At the end of the project, a patented circular, sustainable and reliable process for the production of recyclable functional textiles will be established.

The BioFibreLoop project has a duration of 42 months and a total budget of almost 7 million euros, with 1.5 million going to the coordinator DITF.

The consortium consists of 13 partners from nine countries who contribute expertise and resources from science and industry:

• German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF), Coordinator, Germany
• Next Technology Tecnotessile Società nazionale di ricerca R. L., Italy
• Centre Technologique ALPhANOV, France
• G. Knopf’s Sohn GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
• FreyZein Urban Outdoor GmbH, Austria
• BEES - BE Engineers for Society, Italy
• BAT Graphics Vernitech, France
• Interuniversitair Micro-Electronica Centrum, Belgium
• Idener Research & Development Agrupacion de Interes Economico, Spain
• Teknologian tutkimuskeskus VTT Oy, Finland
• Det Nationale Forskningscenter for Arbejdsmiljø, Denmark
• Steinbeis Innovation gGmbH, Germany
• NIL Textile SRO, Czech Republic

Supply chain management solution provider TradeBeyond announced that Walgreens Boots Alliance (WBA) Global Sourcing has selected its industry-leading multi-enterprise platform to optimize and standardize the company’s operations across its retail brands and to leverage more innovative and agile sourcing practices.

The TradeBeyond platform will be used to manage numerous processes within WBA’s Global Sourcing function, as well as overall sourcing and order management follow up. It will also replace several legacy and redundant systems to create digital efficiencies, unify processes, and facilitate data transparency and integrity.

Implementation has begun on an iterative schedule that will allow WBA Global Sourcing to begin utilizing TradeBeyond’s platform in Fall 2024.

The Here|After event in Los Angeles, conceived by Denim Dudes' Amy Leverton and writer/prdoucer Erin Barajes, was a sucess. Powered by ISKO, this gathering took place at the Neuehouse Hollywood.

The event featured presentations and a dynamic panel discussion, spotlighting innovations in raw materials. Denim Dudes captivated the audience with their F/W 2025 forecast.

Moderated by Kate Nishimura of Sourcing Journal, the “The New Raw Materials For A Reimagined Supply Chain” panel included industry experts: Keith O’Brien, Senior PR Manager, ISKO, Nava Esmailizadeh, Head of Brand, Ambercycle, Mark Little, Product Creation/Environmental Responsibility, Patagonia and Jane Palmer, CEO of Nature Coatings.

They explored advancements in material science and circular systems, reimagining the future of the supply chain.

Commenting on ISKO’s use of textile-to-textile fibers from RE&UP, Keith says, “The integration of Next-Gen fibers is just one part of it. Turning those materials into beautiful and fashionable products that last is something else, and that’s what ISKO is great at.”

Cascale (formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition) will host Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai on June 28, part of an annual series of events designed to amplify the voices of manufacturers around the globe. Featuring targeted programming designed to address local challenges faced by manufacturers, the event will highlight solutions provided by Cascale’s Higg Index suite of tools and growing list of impact initiatives. The event takes place at the Shanghai New International Expo Center in collaboration with ISPO Shanghai, the multi-segment summer trade show.

Following successful runs in Bangalore, Dhaka, and Shenzhen, Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai will further facilitate pre-competitive collaboration in order to share best practices and collectively address critical challenges. Keynote speakers include Colin Browne, the organization’s newly-appointed CEO, and Scott Raskin, CEO of Worldly, Cascale’s technology partner and event sponsor.

Reflecting “Catalyst for Change,” the current theme of Cascale’s Manufacturer Forum series, the Shanghai event reinforces the organization’s commitment to support an open exchange between manufacturers and better understand their needs and ongoing challenges to jointly develop solutions.

Over 200 attendees are expected to attend the event, which brings together manufacturers with business leaders and critical stakeholders. Programming will cover a wide range of topics, including what manufacturers need to know about global policy, how strategic partnerships can drive industry change, the evolution of Higg FEM and verification processes, and the latest on decarbonization impacts. To aid goal and target-setting, there will also be dedicated training on setting Science-Based Targets for decarbonization, as part of an evolving and interactive program.

The fifth TOS+H Expo, held in Istanbul from 2 to 4 May 2024, was with 4,143 visitors from 53 countries a resounding success. At the 3-day event 163 exhibitors from 19 countries presented innovative products and technologies in occupational safety and health such as Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), smart wearables, AI-based health coaches and Virtual Reality applications.

The trade fair was opened by Mr Sadik Ayhan Saruhan, Vice-President of the Istanbul Chamber of Industry and organiser of the concurrently held symposium along with Mrs Eylül Aydin Kutlu and Muhammet Kamil Isik, both Deputy General Directors at the Turkish Ministry of Labour and Social Security, as well as Mrs Petra Cullmann, Executive Director at Messe Düsseldorf.

The symposium on occupational safety and social security held concurrently by the Istanbul Chamber of Industry attracted over 1,670 participants. In 16 meetings relevant topics such as safety and the prevention of occupational accidents, occupational safety practices in companies and government/local authorities as well as earthquake and disaster relief were discussed.

The Turkish Ministry of Labour and Social Security was not only involved in the opening ceremony but also actively represented with its own stand. This illustrates the growing importance of safety at work and occupational safety standards in Türkiye.

“TOS+H Expo has proven an indispensable platform, not just for presenting innovative products and technologies but also for the exchange between regional experts and international manufacturers that drives progress in the field of safety and health at the workplace. The combination between exhibition and symposium makes a decisive contribution to the development of new standards for a safe world of work in Turkey,” explains Petra Cullmann.

The consortium of Teijin Limited, Fukui Tateami Co., Ltd., and Osaka Medical and Pharmaceutical University announced that a novel surgical patch, under the brand name SYNFOLIUM®, will be released for manufacturing and distribution by Teijin Medical Technologies Co., Ltd. on June 12, 2024.

SYNFOLIUM® is a surgical patch with knitted fabric consisting of both bio-absorbable and non-absorbable yarns, which are coated with cross-linked gelatin. After the patch is surgically implanted in the body, the patient’s tissue grows and gradually surrounds the expandable, non-absorbable portion, while the bio-absorbable portion degrades. The regenerated tissue has the potential to reduce the risk of inflammatory reactions, foreign body reactions and cell death, which often cause deterioration of the implants.

This new product is designed to be used in surgical treatment of patients with congenital heart disease (CHD). The prevalence of CHD is 1 in 100 people globally, and in Japan, it is estimated that approximately 10,000 neonates are born with the disease each year. Newborns and infants with CHD generally undergo surgeries to correct hemodynamic problems due to septal defects or narrowed blood vessels (stenosis) by implanting a medical patch, usually made from synthetic or animal-derived materials. However, over a long period after surgery, a considerable number of patients eventually require re-interventions, such as repeat surgery or catheter therapy, due to the deterioration of the implanted patch. This deterioration can be caused by an immune-mediated foreign body reaction or the development of stenosis due to the inability of the patch to stretch in response to the growth of cardiac and vascular tissue.

To address this clinical problem, Shintaro Nemoto, M.D., Ph.D., of Osaka Medical and Pharmaceutical University, created an idea for a patch that could accommodate the growth of patients’ bodies through restoration by the patient’s own tissues. In 2012, he began research and exploration to make this idea a reality.

Fukui Tateami, a pioneer in warp-knitting technology based in Fukui Prefecture, turned Dr. Nemoto’s idea into the novel concept of an expandable cardiovascular patch. Based on advanced warp knitting technology it developed over the 80 years since its founding, the company created a special knitted fabric structure to accommodate tissue regeneration.

Teijin developed the technology to coat knitted fabric with gelatin, which can prevent blood leakage and can be replaced by the patient’s own tissue. The company has been proceeding with design and development, clinical trials, establishment of a commercial production system, and application for manufacturing and marketing approval in Japan.

The development of SYNFOLIUM® has been supported by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry since 2014, as well as by a program launched in 2017 by the Japan Agency for Medical Research and Development (AMED) to facilitate collaboration between medical academia and industry. Japan’s Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare designated SYNFOLIUM® as a “SAKIGAKE” device in April 2018, providing various incentives to speed up approval for clinical use. In addition, the Japanese Society of Pediatric Cardiology and Cardiac Surgery cooperated by assisting with clinical trials and providing advice on creating guidelines for appropriate use.

Clinical trials that began in 2019 were completed in 2022, and Teijin Medical Technologies applied for manufacturing and sales approval to the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare in January 2023. The company received approval in July of the same year.

Going forward, Teijin and Teijin Medical Technologies, Fukui Tateami, and Osaka Medical and Pharmaceutical University will provide clinical information about this product to medical institutions to facilitate its use in patients with CHD. Teijin and Teijin Medical Technologies will continue to collect and analyze cases using SYNFOLIUM® to establish its long-term safety and efficacy.

Furthermore, to help improve the quality of life of patients with CHD around the world, the consortium plans to market SYNFOLIUM® overseas by working to gain manufacturing and marketing approval in the United States, the European Union and other countries.